JOURNAL^' 

WWJMT ELUS 


AM 


we  €0f  c$  lour 


'■rough,  Ji&tuuU 


c»" 


The  Author.  Missionary  from  the  Society  and  Sandwich  Islands. 


The  Advertiser  Historical  Series 
No.  2 


A   Narrative  of  a  Tour  through  Hawaii,  or 

Owhyhee;  with  remarks  on  the  History, 

Traditions,  Manners,  Customs  and 

Language  of  the  Inhabitants 

of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 


By  William  Ellis 

Aissionary  from  the  Society  and  Sandwich  Islands 
(Reprint  of  the  London  1827  Edition) 


With  an  Introduction 

By  Lorrin  A.  Thurston 


Hawaiian  Gazette  Co.,  Ltd. 
Honolulu,  Hawaii,  1917 


3 

INTRODUCTION    BY    LORRIN    A.    THURSTON 


There  has  recently  been  a  growing  demand,  both  on  the  part  of 
permanent  residents  of  and  visitors  to  Hawaii,  for  specific  informa- 
tion concerning  the  history  of  Hawaii,  more  particularly  of  the  period 
of  transition  from  the  ancient  feudal  system  when  the  King  and 
Chiefs  had  supreme  and  absolute  power  of  life  and  death  and  the 
common  people  had  no  rights  of  person  or  property,  to  the  era  when 
constitutional  guaranty  of  protection  and  the  laws  of  civilization  be- 
came established. 

A  comprehensive  history  of  Hawaii  has  yet  to  be  written.  Its 
compilation  will  involve  a  vast  amount  of  investigation  and  study,  as 
the  material  is  scattered  through  governmental  and  court  records,  pri- 
vate correspondence  and  journals,  newspapers  and  magazine  articles; 
while  many  matters,  especially  regarding  the  events  leading  up  to  an- 
nexation, rest  in  the  personal  and  unwritten  knowledge  of  leading 
participants. 

Alexander's  History,  written  for  public  school  purposes,  the  best 
Hawaiian  history  now  available,  is  necessarily  condensed. 

Other  books  bearing  upon  various  phases  of  Hawaiian  life,  were 
issued  in  limited  editions,  and  moreover,  are  mostly  out   of  print. 

Under  these  circumstances,  it  has  been  decided  by  the  Hawaiian 
Gazette  Co.,  Ltd.,  publishers  of  the  Pacific  Commercial  Advertiser,  to 
meet  the  public  desire  for  information  by  reprinting  the  more  valuable 
of  the  out-of-print  books  and  by  collecting  and  publishing  the  per- 
sonal memoirs,  reminiscences  and  writings  of  some  of  the  older  resi- 
dents of  Hawaii,  who  are  able  to  give  first-hand  evidence  of  what  they 
have  seen  and  heard,  or  to  relate  the  traditions  and  evidence  of  what 
had  previously  transpired,  obtained  by  them  from  those  who  have 
gone  before. 

In  pursuance  of  this  decision  the  "Reminiscences  of  Old  Hawaii," 
by  Sereno  Edwards  Bishop,  have  been  published  in  The  Advertiser, 
and  also  published  in  book  form,  as  "No.  1  of  The  Advertiser  His- 
torical Series." 

This  has  been  followed  by  the  like  publication  in  The  Advertiser 
of  "A  Tour  Through  Hawaii,"  with  incidental  remarks  by  Rev.  Wil- 
liam Ellis,  an  English  Missionary  to  the  South  Pacific  Islands,  who 
visited  Hawaii  in  1822  and  1823  and  lived  here  for  about  two  years. 
This  volume  is  the  publication  of  the  "Tour"  in  book  form. 

The  following  is  a  resume  of  the  facts  incident  to  the  visit  of  Mr. 
Ellis  to  Hawaii,  and  of  the  publication  of  the  "Journal"  and  the 
several  editions  of  the  "Tour." 

The    extension    of   missionary   effort   to   Hawaii,   by   the   American 


2*  79 


Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  in  1820,  was  preceded,  in  the  South  Pacific, 
by  the  London  Mission  Society,  who,  in  179G  despatched  an  expedition 
to,  and  early  in  1797  established  mission  settlements  at  the  Marquesas, 
Friendly  and  Society  Islands. 

These  missionaries  suffered  great  hardship,  assaults  upon  them  being 
numerous  and  some  were  murdered.  Owing  to  the  frequent  inter-tribal 
wars,  some  of  the  stations  were  abandoned,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
discouraging  struggle  had  been  carried  on  for  fifteen  years  that  a 
change  for  the  better  took  place;  after  which  progress  at  some  of  the 
stations  was  rapid. 

In  1822,  a  deputation  from  the  home  society  visited  the  English 
Missions,  and,  in  company  with  Rev.  William  Ellis,  who  had  for  six 
years  been  a  missionary  at  the  Society  Islands,  and  two  natives, 
extended  their  observations  to  Hawaii,  where  they  intended  to  spend 
a  few  weeks.  Owing  to  the  exigencies  of  transportation,  their  stay 
was  extended  for  four  months.  The  American  missionaries  at  Hawaii 
and  the  Hawaiian  chiefs  were  so  much  pleased  with  Mr.  Ellis  and  his 
native  assistants,  that  they  were  invited  to  remain  permanently, 
which  invitation  was  accepted.  Mr.  Ellis  returned  to  Huahine  for 
his  family,  arriving  back  in  Hawaii  in  February,  1823. 

The  American  Mission  had,  at  that  time,  established  permanent  sta- 
tions on  Oahu  and  Kauai  only.  It  was  thereupon  decided  that  an 
exploration  of  the  Island  of  Hawaii  should  be  made,  for  the  purpose 
of  learning  more  of  the  country  and  people,  with  a  view  to  establish- 
ing mission  stations  there.  Mr.  Ellis  and  three  of  the  American  mis- 
sionaries, Asa  Thurston,  Artemas  Bishop  and  Joseph  Goodrich,  were 
despatched  for  the  purpose,  in  June,  1823,  landing  at  Kailua  and 
spending  two  months  in  making  the  circuit  of  the  island.  So  far  as 
the  records  show,  they  were  the  first  white  men  to  accomplish  this, 
being  also  the  first  white  men  to  visit  the  volcano  of  Kilauea. 

Upon  the  return  of  the  party  to  Honolulu,  a  joint  journal  of  their 
journey  and  observations  was  prepared.  A  copy  of  this,  together  with 
a  report  by  the  American  missionaries,  was  printed  in  Boston  in  1825. 

Mr.  Ellis  returned  to  England  in  182-1  and  after  rewriting  the  jour- 
nal in  the  form  of  a  personal  narrative,  and  adding  thereto  a  large 
number  of  his  own  observations,  together  with  comparisons  of  life  and 
customs  in  Hawaii  with  those  in  the  Society  Islands,  published  five 
editions  in  London  between  1825  and  1828.  Later,  in  1S42,  the  same 
material,  as  a  whole,  was  published  by  him,  in  connection  with  other 
material  concerning  the  South  Sea  Islands,  under  the  title  of  "Poly- 
nesian Researches."     This  also  went  through  several  editions. 

A  number  of  these  many  editions  differ  more  or  less  from  each 
other. 

For  the  purposes  of  this  publication,  one  of  the  English  editions  of 


1827  has  been  followed,  there  being  added  thereto  the  preface  and 
report  of  the  American  missionaries,  from  the  American  edition,  and 
illustrations  from  all  of  them. 

The  combination  constitutes  the  clearest,  most  accurate  and  de- 
tailed account  extant,  of  the  physical  and  social  conditions  existing  in 
Hawaii  in  1823. 

The  information  secured  by  Mr.  Ellis  from  the  natives  concerning 
a  great  number  of  subjects,  and  here  recorded,  also  constitutes  a 
mine  of  information  concerning  Polynesian  lore,  which,  but  for  him, 
would  have  been  lost  or  known  in  much  less  detail. 

The  poet,  Coleridge,  is  reported  to  have  stated  that  he  considered 
Ellis'  "Tour  Through  Hawaii"  to  be  the  most  interesting  and  in- 
structive book  of  travel  that  he  had  ever  read. 

All  of  the  many  editions  of  this  book  have  been  out  of  print  for 
many  years,  and  are  only  to  be  found  in  a  few  libraries,  or  at  rare 
intervals  second-hand  and  at  prohibitory  prices  in  a  few  book  stores. 

The  sub-headings  throughout  the  book  are  inserted  by  myself  as  a 
convenience  in  referring  to  the  contents.  Some  of  the  longer  para- 
graphs have  been  broken  into  shorter  ones,  but  no  change  has  other- 
wise been  made.    I  have  also  added  an  index. 

Honolulu,  November  11,  1916. 


6 
PREFACE   TO    THE    AMERICAN   EDITION   OF    1825. 


In  the  year  1819,  Tamehameha,  king  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  died, 
and  his  son  Rihoriho  succeeded  to  his  dominions;  and  immediately 
afterwards,  the  system  of  idolatry,  so  far' as  it  was  connected  with 
the  government,  was  abolished.  This  measure  seems  to  have  been 
owing  to  three  causes:  First,  a  desire  on  the  part  of  the  king  to 
improve  the  condition  of  his  wives,  who,  in  common  with  all  the 
other  females  of  the  islands,  were  subject  to  many  painful  incon- 
veniences from  the  operation  of  the  tabu;  secondly,  the  advice  of 
foreigners,  and  of  some  of  the  more  intelligent  chiefs;  and  thirdly, 
and  principally,  the  reports  of  what  had  been  done  by  Pomare,  in 
the  Society  Islands.  A  war,  which  this  act  occasioned,  was  suppressed 
by  a  decisive  battle  described  in  this  volume.  At  this  time,  and  be- 
fore intelligence  of  the  death  of  Tamehameha  reached  the  United 
States,  missionaries,  sent  forth  by  the  American  Board  of  Commis- 
sioners for  Foreign  Missions,  were  on  their  way  to  the  islands,  where 
they  arrived,  a  few  months  afterwards,  with  the  Gospel  of  Jesus 
Christ. 

SETTLEMENT   OF   MISSIONARIES   IN   HAWAII. 

After  some  hesitation  on  the  part  of  the  rulers  of  the  islands,  the 
missionaries,  so  opportunely  arrived,  were  allowed  to  remain  and  com- 
mence their  work.  Some  took  up  their  abode  on  Hawaii,  where  the 
king  then  resided;  others  went  to  Tauai,  under  the  patronage  of 
Taumuarii,  king  of  that  island;  but  the  main  body  settled  at  Hono- 
ruru,  on  the  island  of  Oahu,  where  is  the  principal  harbour  for  ship- 
ping. This  was  in  April,  1820.  At  the  close  of  the  year,  the  king 
and  the  missionaries  removed  from  Hawaii,  and  the  latter  joined 
their  brethren  at  Honoruru. 

During  the  following  year,  some  progress  was  made  in  settling  the 
orthography  of  the  language,  a  task,  which  the  great  prevalence  of 
liquid  sounds  rendered  extremely  difficult.  The  alphabet  adopted,  was 
that  proposed  by  the  Hon.  John  Pickering,  of  Salem,  Mass.,  in  his 
"Essay  on  a  Uniform  Orthography  for  the  Indian  languages  of  North 
America,"  published  in  the  Memoirs  of  the  American  Academy  of 
Arts  and  Sciences;  excepting  that  the  Hawaiian  language  requires 
a  less  number  of  letters  than  that  alphabet  contains.  Every  sound 
has  its  appropriate  sign;  every  word  is  spelled  exactly  as  it  is  pro- 
nounced; and  thus  the  art  of  reading  and  writing  the  language,  is 
rendered  to  the  natives  simple  and  easy.  A  press  being  at  the  com- 
mand of  the  missionaries,  the  first  sheet  of  a  Hawaiian  spelling-book 
was  printed  in  the  beginning  of  1822.  This  work  was  soon  in  great 
demand.  Other  works  in  the  native  language  have  since  been  pub- 
lished. 


ARRIVAL    OF   REV.    WILLIAM    ELLIS. 

In  the  spring  of  this  year,  the  Eev.  William  Ellis,  an  English  Mis- 
sionary, who  had  resided  several  years  at  the  Society  Islands,  came 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  on  his  way  to  the  Marquesas.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  the  Eev.  Daniel  Tyerman  and  George  Bennet,  Esq.,  two 
gentlemen  who  had  been  sent  by  the  London  Missionary  Society  as 
deputies  to  their  missions  in  the  South  Seas;  and,  also,  by  two  Tahi- 
tian  chiefs,  who  were  sent,  with  their  wives,  by  the  church  of  Hua- 
hine,  as  missionaries  to  the  Marquesas. 

This  company  having  been  detained  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  for  a 
considerable  period,  and  Mr.  Ellis  and  the  two  Tahitians  being  almost 
immediately  able  to  use  the  Hawaiian  language  with  facility,  the 
natives  became  so  much  interested  in  them,  as  to  invite  them  to  re- 
main permanently  at  the  Sandwich  Islands.  This  invitation  being 
strongly  seconded  by  the  American  Missionaries,  was  accepted.  At 
the  close  of  the  year,  Mr.  Ellis  went  to  Huahine  for  his  family,  and 
returned  in  the  February  following. 

ORGANIZATION    OF    THE    EXPEDITION. 

In  April,  the  mission  received  a  further  accession  of  strength  by  the 
arrival  of  new  labourers  from  the  United  States.  This  called  for  an 
enlargement  of  operations.  Two  missionaries  were  sent  to  Maui,  and, 
as  soon  as  circumstances  would  permit,  arrangements  were  made  for 
surveying  Hawaii,  with  a  view  to  the  judicious  occupation  of  that 
large  and  populous  island.  Mr.  Ellis,  the  English  missionary,  the  Eev. 
Asa  Thurston,  the  Eev.  Charles  S.  Stewart,  the  Eev.  Artemas  Bishop, 
and  Mr.  Joseph  Goodrich,  (a  licensed  preacher,)  American  mission- 
aries, were  selected  for  this  purpose. 

Mr.  Stewart  was  detained  from  the  service  by  ill  health.  The  rest 
commenced  the  tour  of  the  island  early  in  the  summer  of  1823,  and 
completed  it  in  a  little  more  than  two  months.  The  results  of  the 
tour  form  the  subject  matter  of  this  volume. 

DEPARTURE   OF   KING   TO   ENGLAND. 

A  short  time  after  the  return  of  the  Deputation  from  Hawaii,  the 
king,  Eihoriho,  embarked  in  a  whaling  ship  for  England.  His  object 
seems  to  have  been  chiefly  to  increase  his  knowledge  of  the  world. 
Accompanied  by  his  favourite  queen,  a  chief,  and  some  other  native 
attendants,  he  arrived  in  London  early  in  the  following  summer;  but, 
in  the  course  of  a  few  weeks,  both  he  and  his  wife  sickened  and 
died.  The  remains  of  these  two  personages  were  sent  back  to  the 
islands  in  the  Blonde,  an  English  Frigate,  commanded  by  Lord 
Byron,  brother  (cousin — L.  A.  T.)  to  the  poet;  and  upon  their  arrival, 


8 

the  funeral  rites  were  performed,  in  a  Christian  manner,  by  their  affec- 
tionate and  sorrowing  people.  A  younger  brother  succeeds  to  the  gov- 
ernment, which  seems  to  rest  upon  a  solid  basis. 

The  progress  of  the  missionaries  in  attracting  the  attention  of  the 
natives  to  religious  instruction,  and  in  teaching  them  to  read  and 
write  their  own  language,  especially  of  late,  has  been  truly  surprising. 
Schools,  managed  by  natives  themselves,  have  become  quite  numerous, 
and  are  constantly  increasing  in  number,  popularity,  and  effect. 

AUTHORSHIP   OP  JOURNAL. 

The  following  Journal  was  drawn  up  by  Mr.  Ellis,  from  minutes 
kept  by  himself,  and  by  his  associates  on  the  tour,  who  subsequently 
gave  it  their  approbation.  The  Eeport  of  the  Deputation,  which 
forms  a  convenient  introduction  to  the  main  work,  was  written  by 
another  hand. 

The  Appendix  was  prepared  by  the  Assistant  Secretary  of  the 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  who  performed  the  duties  of  an  editor, 
while  the  work  was  passing  through  the  press:  but,  as  those  duties 
were  performed  amidst  numerous  cares  and  frequent  interruptions,  it 
will  not  be  surprising  if  inaccuracies  should  exist. 


REPORT   OF   THE   DEPUTATION. 

To  The  Members  and  Patrons  of  the  Sandwich  Island  Mission. 

Brethren  and  Friends: — Having,  by  favour  of  Providence,  per- 
formed, in  the  period  of  ten  weeks,  the  interesting  service,  for  which 
we  were  lately  appointed,  it  is  with  no  small  satisfaction,  that  we 
lay  before  you  a  brief  outline  of  our  proceedings. 

AN  APPRECIATION  OF  KUAKINI. 
By  sea  and  by  land  we  have  enjoyed  the  protection  of  God,  and 
the  countenance  and  patronage  of  the  king  and  chiefs.  Especially 
would  we  notice  the  kindness  of  Kuakini,  the  Governor  of  Hawaii, 
more  known  in  this  country  by  the  name  of  John  Adams,  who  re- 
ceived us  with  great  hospitality,  and  freely  lent  his  influence  and 
authority  to  aid  us  in  the  attainment  of  our  immediate  objects;  and 
with  a  view  to  the  permanent  establishment  of  a  missionary  station 
there,  has  promptly  commenced  the  erection  of  a  chapel  at  Kairua 
for  the  worship  of  Jehovah,  whose  rightful  and  supreme  authority 
he  has  publicly  acknowledged. 

We  would  early  and  devoutly  acknowledge  our  obligations  of  grati- 
tude to  the  Great  Lord  of  the  harvest,  who  has  enabled  us,  without 
opposition  or  material  disaster,  so  fully  to  investigate  the  moral  state, 
and  comparative  claims,  of  that  portion  of  our  field  of  labour,  and 
so  freely  and  frequently  to  proclaim  to  its  perishing  thousands  the 
unsearchable  riches  of  Jesus  Christ.  While  we  have  endeavored 
steadily  to  pursue  these  grand  objects  of  our  enterprise  with  reference 
to  a  permanent  maintenance  of  the  Gospel  on  that  island,  we  have 
been  enabled  to  collect  considerable  information  on  a  variety  of  sub- 
jects, which,  though  of  secondary  moment  in  the  missionary's  account, 
are,  nevertheless,  interesting  and  important;  such  as  the  natural 
scenery,  productions,  geology,  and  curiosities;  the  traditionary  legends, 
superstitions,  manners,  customs,  &c. 

In  the  prosecution  of  our  design  to  explore  and  enlighten  the  long 
benighted  Hawaii,  we  have  ascended  its  lofty  and  majestic  mountains, 
entered  its  dark  caverns,  crossed  its  deep  ravines,  and  traversed  its 
immense  fields  of  rugged  lava.  We  have  stood  with  wonder  on  the 
edge  of  its  ancient  craters,  walked  tremblingly  along  the  brink  of  its 
smoking  chasms,  gazed  with  admiration  on  its  raging  fires,  and  wit- 
nessed, with  no  ordinary  feelings  of  awe,  the  varied  and  sublime 
phenomena  of  volcanic  action,  in  all  its  imposing  magnificence  and 
terrific  grandeur. 

We  have  witnessed,  too,  with  sorrow,  the  appalling  darkness,  which 
has  hitherto  over-spread  the  land;  have  wept  over  the  miseries  of  its 
untutored    inhabitants;    have    sighed    for   their    speedy    emancipation 


10 

from  the  bondage  of  iniquity;  and  through  their  fertile  vales,  barren 
wastes,  and  clustering  villages,  have  proclaimed  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ,  as  the  Hope  and  Deliverer  of  man. 

COURSE  OF  THE  EXPLORATION. 

Commencing  our  tour  at  Kairua,  on  tho  western  shore  of  Hawaii,  we 
travelled  to  the  south,  the  east,  and  the  north;  twice  crossed  the  in- 
terior in  different  parts;  remained  a  night  and  a  day  at  the  great 
volcano  of  Kirauea;  visited  all  the  principal  settlements,  both  on  the 
coast,  and  in  the  interiour;  spent  a  Sabbath  in  each  of  the  five 
large  divisions  of  the  island;  and  have  endeavored  to  convince  the 
inhabitants,  that  the  objects  of  the  mission  are  benevolent  and  dis- 
interested, intended  to  lead  them  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  lights  of 
science,  and  the  blessings  of  Christianity. 

We  have  not  forgotten  the  command  of  our  Saviour,  "As  ye  go, 
preach;"  and  it  has  been  our  comfort,  in  obedience  to  that  command, 
to  hold  the  cup  of  his  salvation  to  the  parched  lips  of  those,  who  had 
never  tasted  the  heavenly  draught,  and  whom  we  found  most  em- 
phatically without  hope  and  without  God  in  the  world.  Strengthened 
by  the  divine  promise,  ' '  Lo,  I  am  with  you  alway, ' '  we  have  on  our 
tour  preached  in  more  than  sixty  different  places,  to  collections  of 
people  of  from  fifty  to  one  thousand  in  number,  and  in  most  cases 
have  been  heard  with  attention. 

CENSUS   AND    CAUSES    OF    DECREASE    OF   POPULATION. 

We  have  also  carefully  numbered  the  habitations  of  the  natives, 
and  have  estimated  the  inhabitants  of  Hawaii  to  be  85,000;  a  num- 
ber much  greater  than  the  population  of  all  the  other  islands  of  the 
group;  but  far  less  than  the  estimate  of  its  celebrated  discoverer,  and 
of  reputable  subsequent  voyagers.  To  contemplate  the  waste  of 
population  here  indicated, — whether  we  attribute  it  to  the  ravages  of 
war,  whose  restless  spear  is  scarcely  restrained  by  the  approach  of 
the  cross;  to  the  desolating  pestilence,  which  has  more  than  once 
swept  through  these  isles;  to  the  cruel  superstition,  which  has  but 
recently  abolished  her  immolating  rights;  to  that  most  unnatural  of 
all  crimes,  that  gain  admittance  to  "the  habitations  of  cruelty,"  in- 
fanticide; or  to  the  prevalence  of  vice,  rendered  doubly  destructive 
by  foreign  causes, — cannot  but  be  deeply  affecting  to  the  feelings 
of  philanthropy. 

The  light  of  the  Gospel  has  broken  the  gloom,  which,  like  a  long 
and  cheerless  night,  has,  from  time  immemorial,  rested  on  the  hills  and 
vallies  of  Hawaii;  and  a  jubilee  has,  we  trust,  dawned  upon  its  miser- 
able inhabitants. 


11 

IDOLATRY    RENOUNCED    BUT    SUPERSTITION    REMAINS. 

But  though  the  chiefs  have  renounced  their  ancient  idolatry,  and 
the  priests  no  longer  perform  the  mystic  and  bloody  rites  of  the 
heiau,  (Temple),  and  though  on  the  ruins  of  their  temples,  altars  are 
now  erecting  for  the  worship  of  the  living  God,  yet  the  deep  im- 
pressions made  in  childhood,  by  the  songs,  legends,  and  horrid  rites 
connected  with  their  long  established  superstitions,  and  the  feelings 
and  habits  cherished  by  them  in  subsequent  life,  are  not,  by  the 
simple  proclamation  of  a  king,  or  the  resignation  of  a  priest,  to  be 
removed  at  once  from  the  mind  of  the  unenlightened  Hawaiian,  who, 
in  the  sighing  of  the  breeze,  the  gloom  of  night,  the  boding  eclipse, 
the  meteor's  glance,  the  lightning's  flash,  the  thunder's  roar,  the 
earthquake's  shock,  is  accustomed  to  recognize  the  dreaded  presence 
of  some  unpropitious  deity.  Nor  must  we  be  surprised,  if  the  former 
views  which  the  Hawaiian  has  been  accustomed  to  entertain  respect- 
ing Pele,  the  goddess  he  supposes  to  preside  over  volcanoes,  should 
not  at  once  be  eradicated;  as  he  is  continually  reminded  of  her  power, 
by  almost  every  object  that  meets  his  eye,  from  the  rude  cliffs  of 
lava,  against  which  the  billows  of  the  ocean  dash,  even  to  the  lofty 
craters,  her  ancient  seat  amid  perpetual  snows.  Nor  is  it  to  be  ex- 
pected, that  those  who  feel  themselves  to  have  been  released  from 
the  oppressive  demands  of  their  former  religion,  will,  until  they  are 
more  enlightened,  be  in  haste  to  adopt  a  substitute,  which  presents 
imperious  claims  in  direct  opposition  to  all  their  unhallowed  affec- 
tions; especially  since,  while  thus  ignorant  of  the  nature  of  Chris- 
tianity, their  recollections  of  the  past  must  awaken  fears  of  evil, 
perhaps  not  less  dreadful  than  those  from  which  they  have  just 
escaped. 

PEOPLE    OF   A   RECEPTIVE    DISPOSITION. 

But  though  we  found  the  people  generally  ignorant  of  Jehovah  and 
indifferent  to  his  worship,  and  many  of  them  retaining  their  house- 
hold gods,  and  cherishing  a  sort  of  veneration  for  the  bones  of  their 
chiefs,  and  relatives,  yet  not  a  few,  when  they  heard  of  the  love  of 
God  in  the  gift  of  his  Son,  desired  to  be  more  fully  instructed,  and 
"intreated  that  the  word  might  be  spoken  to  them  again." 

"The  harvest  is  plenteous,  but  the  labourers  are  few."  Nine 
preachers  only  are  employed  in  the  Sandwich  Islands;  and  such  is 
the  importance  of  the  stations  occupied  in  Oahu,  Maui  and  Tauai, 
(heretofore  written  Woahoo,  Mowee  and  Atooi. — Ed.),  that  but  four 
at  most  can  be  spared  for  Hawaii,  or  one  to  every  21,000  inhabitants, 
a  number  more  than  equal  to  the  whole  population  of  the  Society 
Islands,  where  twelve  missionaries  are  advantageously  employed.  But 
to  furnish  Hawaii  even  with  one  missionary  to  every  4,200  souls,  six- 
teen more  than  the  mission  can  now  assign  to  it,  would  be  required. 


12 

LOCATION    OF    MISSION    STATIONS    RECOMMENDED. 

We  are  happy  to  state,  that,  on  different  parts  of  the  island,  there 
are  eight  eligible  stations,  Kairua,  Kearakekua,  Honaunau,  Honuapo, 
Kaimu,  Waiakea,  Waipio,  and  Towaihae.  These  we  earnestly  recom- 
mend for  early  and  permanent  occupation,  as  affording  to  the  mis- 
sionary encouraging  prospects,  not  of  freedom  from  privation,  but  of 
extensive  usefulness. 

Kairua,  on  the  west,  claims,  doubtless,  our  earliest  attention.  Not 
less  than  60  of  its  3,000  inhabitants,  including  the  governor,  have 
been  taught  to  read  and  write  their  own  language,  and  have  been 
made  acquainted  with  the  first  principles  of  Christianity.  (Kairua, 
Kearakekua,  and  Waiakea,  have  since  been  occupied. — Ed.) 

Near  Kearakekua,  memorable  for  the  lamented  fall  of  Captain 
Cook,  we  were  surprised  and  delighted  to  find  a  friendly  chief,  Ka- 
makau,  who  espouses  with  lively  interest,  the  cause  of  the  Gospel, 
and  earnestly  desires  to  be  taught  himself,  and  to  teach  his  people, 
the  word  of  God.  The  expected  residence  here  of  Naihe  and  Kapio- 
lani,  interesting  chiefs,  renders  it  still  more  desirable  that  missionaries 
should  reside  here. 

Honaunau,  the  frequent  residence  of  former  kings,  where  a  de- 
pository of  their  bones,  and  many  images  of  their  gods,  still  remain, 
has  a  dense  population  waiting  for  Christian  instruction. 

Including  these  three  places,  the  coast,  for  twenty  miles,  embraces 
more  than  forty  villages,  containing  a  population  of  perhaps  20,000 
souls,  to  whom  missionaries,  stationed  at  these  posts,  might  convey 
instruction. 

Honuapo,  on  the  southern  shore,  is  an  extensive  village,  with  a  con- 
siderable population  in  its  vicinity. 

Kaimu  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  southeast  shore,  with  700  inhabi- 
tants, and  with  twice  that  number  of  people  in  its  vicinity. 

At  most  of  the  above  places,  unless  wells  can  be  obtained,  the  mis- 
sionaries will  often  experience  the  want  of  good  water. 

Waiakea,  on  the  east,  well  watered,  fertile  and  beautiful,  having  a 
commodious  harbour,  with  an  extensive  population,  demands,  next  to 
Kairua,  our  earliest  arrangements  for  permanent  missionary  opera- 
tions. 

Waipio,  little  less  fertile  and  beautiful,  having  in  its  immediate 
neighbourhood  Waimanu,  a  valley  of  similar  beauty  and  importance, 
is  waiting  to  receive  the  precious  seed. 

Towaihae  on  the  north-west,  a  considerable  village,  presents  nearly 
equal  claims. 

Several  other  places,  which  have  not  been  named,  are  scarcely  less 
inviting. 


13 


DETAILS    IN    JOINT    JOURNAL. 


The  whole  field  is  open  to  spiritual  cultivation,  "and  he  that 
goeth  forth  and  weepeth,  bearing  precious  seed,  shall  doubtless  come 
again  with  rejoicing,  bringing  his  sheaves  with  him." 

Such  is  the  general  view,  which  we  proposed  to  lay  before  you. 
But  for  more  particular  information  on  the  various  subjects  of  our 
inquiry;  for  detailed  descriptions  of  the  places  eligible  for  missionary 
operations,  and  of  the  recently  established  and  flourishing  station 
visited  by  one  of  us  at  Maui;  and  for  minute  and  copious  accounts 
of  Hawaii,  and  of  the  sentiments,  characters,  and  employments,  of  its 
ingenious  inhabitants;  we  beg  leave  respectfully  to  refer  you  to  our 
joint  journal  of  the  tour.  Believing  that  you  will  rejoice  with  us  in 
the  cheering  prospect  of  the  early  and  ultimate  success  of  missionary 
operations  there,  and  encouraged  as  we  are  with  the  assured  hope  of 
the  complete  and  glorious  triumph  of  the  Gospel  in  every  island, 
permit  us  affectionately  to  invite  you  to  unite  with  us,  "even  as  also 
ye  do,"  in  humble  and  earnest  prayer  for  this  interesting  portion  of 
our  race;  that  the  seed  already  sown  among  them  may  be  as  "the 
handful  of  corn  upon  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  the  fruit  whereof 
shall  shake  like  Lebanon;"  that  the  promise  to  the  Eedeemer  of  the 
nations  may  be  remembered  for  their  good;  and  that  divine  mercies 
may  descend  from  heaven  upon  them  in  rich  and  joyful  profusion, 
"as  the  dew  of  Hermon,  and  as  the  dew  that  descended  upon  the 
mountains  of  Zion,  for  there  the  Lord  commanded  the  blessing,  even 
life  forever  more." 


14 
PREFACE    TO    1827    ENGLISH    EDITION. 


The  greater  part  of  the  following  Narrative  was  written  in  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  from  notes  taken  by  my  fellow-travellers  and  my- 
self, while  engaged  in  the  Tour  it  describes.  At  my  request,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  American  Mission  was  associated  in  preparing  it;  but  cir- 
cumstances requiring  his  presence  in  another  island,  the  task  devolved 
on  myself  alone. 

The  journal,  when  prepared,  was  submitted  to  most  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, and  approved.  As  the  chief  object  of  the  Tour, — a  survey 
of  the  religious  state  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  island, — was  one  in 
which  the  American  Society  had  an  equal  interest  with  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  with  which  I  am  connected,  a  copy  of  the  journal 
approved  in  the  islands,  was,  according  to  previous  agreement  be- 
tween the  American  missionaries  and  myself,  left  by  me  in  America, 
and  I  believe  will  be  published  there. 

ADDITIONS  TO  JOURNAL. 

The  continued  narrative  form,  as  more  agreeable  than  that  of  a 
daily  journal,  has  been  adopted  in  the  present  publication;  and  the 
writer  appears  in  the  first  person,  instead  of  the  third.  I  have  not 
felt  it  incumbent  on  me  to  confine  myself  to  the  mere  contents  of 
the  document  left  in  America;  but  have,  in  various  parts,  made  large 
additions  from  my  own  private  observations. 

The  biographical  accounts  of  various  important  persons,  many 
descriptions  of  the  superstitions,  manners,  customs,  and  traditions  of 
the  people,  the  nature  of  their  government,  and  the  remarks  on  their 
language,  are  taken  from  my  own  memoranda,  which  a  knowledge 
of  their  language  enabled  me  to  make,  during  my  daily  intercourse 
with  the  natives  for  the  space  of  two  years. 

I  have  occasionally  illustrated  my  remarks  by  allusions  to  the 
Society  Islands,  where  I  spent  sis  years  in  missionary  occupations. 
I  have  invariably  represented  the  natives  as  we  found  them,  exhibit- 
ing freely  the  lights  and  shades  of  their  character,  without  exagge- 
ration; and  can  assure  my  readers,  that  it  has  been  my  constant  aim 
to  offer  nothing,  the  accuracy  of  which  may  not  be  relied  upon;  and, 
in  many  descriptions,  have  rather  diminished  than  enlarged  the 
objects  described. 

PICTURES  AND  MAPS. 

The  drawings  were  sketched  on  the  spot.  The  outline  of  the  map  is 
from  Vancouver's  survey,  unaltered,  except  slightly  in  two  places, 
viz.  Kairua  and  Waiakea.     The  geographical  divisions,  &c.  were  in- 


15 

serted  during  the  Tour;  and  specimens  brought  to  this  country,  of 
the  lava,  &c.  described  in  the  narrative,  have  been  inspected  by  in- 
dividuals of  eminence  in  the  study  of  mineralogy. 

It  is  hoped,  that  in  various  points  of  view,  the  following  narrative 
will  be  found  interesting.  It  will  introduce  to  the  more  accurate 
knowledge  of  our  country  a  portion  of  the  human  race,  with  which 
they  have  been  hitherto  very  imperfectly  acquainted;  and  tend  to 
remove  some  prejudices  which  may  have  existed  respecting  the  sup- 
posed invincible  ferocity  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders.  It  will  prove 
that  they  are  rapidly  emerging  from  their  former  condition,  and  pre- 
paring to  maintain  a  higher  rank  in  the  scale  of  nations.  Above  all, 
it  will  furnish  a  decisive  and  triumphant  illustration  of  the  direct 
tendency  of  Christian  principles,  and  Christian  institutions,  to  pro- 
mote the  true  amelioration  of  mankind  in  all  the  relations  of  social 
life. 

POWER  OF   CHRISTIANITY. 

Without  depreciating  the  value  of  those  efforts,  which  mere  political 
philanthropists  may  employ  for  the  interests  of  humanity;  such  facts 
as  those  presented  to  the  world,  in  the  recent  history  of  the  Society 
and  Sandwich  Islands,  prove,  that  CHEISTIANITY  ALONE  supplies 
the  most  powerful  motives,  and  the  most  effective  machinery,  for 
originating  and  accomplishing  the  processes  of  civilization.  "While 
the  spiritual  welfare  and  the  eternal  destinies  of  men  are  the  primary 
objects  of  its  solicitude,  it  provides  for  all  their  subordinate  interests 
on  true  and  permanent  principles,  and  thus  lays  a  solid  foundation 
for  personal  happiness,  domestic  comfort,  and  national  prosperity. 
These  are  the  legitimate  triumphs  of  the  gospel;  these  are  moral 
demonstrations  of  its  efficiency  and  its  origin;  these  are  proofs,  in 
perfect  harmony  with  other  illustrations  of  the  fact,  that  "the  foolish- 
ness of  God  is  wiser  than  men,  and  the  weakness  of  God  is  stronger 
than  men;"  and  that  "godliness  hath  the  promise  of  the  life  that 
now  is,  and  of  the  life  which  is  to  come." 

The  candid  reader  will  pass  over  all  the  defects  in  the  execution 
of  the  work,  when  assured,  that  every  pretension,  except  to  a  simple 
narrative  of  facts,  is  disclaimed;  that  it  was  prepared  amidst  a  variety 
of  engagements,  and  under  the  pressure  of  severe  domestic  affliction, 
and  that  the  last  ten  years  of  my  life  have  been  so  much  devoted 
to  the  study  of  the  uncultivated  languages  of  the  Pacific,  that  when 
most  of  it  was  written,  they  were  more  familiar  than  my  native 
tongue. 

London,  February  23,  1826. 


of  ihe 


C 


Missionary  Tour  Through  Hawaii 


By  WILLIAA  ELLIS 

It  is  nearly  half  a  century  since  Captain  Cook,  in  search  of  a  north- 
ern passage  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic,  discovered  a  group  of 
islands,  which,  in  honour  of  his  patron  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  first 
lord  of  the  Admiralty,  he  called  the  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  The 
importance  he  attached  to  this  discovery  may  be  gathered  from  his 
own  words;  for,  when  speaking  of  the  circumstances  under  which  the 
vessels  anchored  for  the  first  time  in  Kearake  'kua  bay,  the  appear- 
ance of  the  natives,  &c.  he  remarks,  "We  could  not  but  be  struck 
with  the  singularity  of  this  scene;  and,  perhaps,  there  were  few  on 
board  who  now  lamented  our  having  failed  in  our  endeavours  to  find 
a  northern  passage  homeward  last  summer.  To  this  disappointment 
we  owed  our  having  it  in  our  power  to  revisit  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  to  enrich  our  voyage  with  a  discovery,  which,  though  last,  seemed, 
in  many  respects,  to  be  the  most  important  that  had  hitherto  been 
made  by  Europeans  throughout  the  extent  of  the  Pacific  ocean." 

These  are  the  last  words  recorded  in  the  journal  of  that  enter- 
prising and  intelligent  navigator;  a  melancholy  event  shortly  after- 
wards occurred  on  the  shores  of  this  very  bay,  which  arrested  his 
career  of  discovery,  and  terminated  his  existence. 

On  the  return  of  the  survivors,  a  detailed  account  of  the  islands 
and  their  inhabitants  was  given  to  the  world,  and  excited  no  small 
degree  of  interest,  not  only  in  England,  but  throughout  the  continent 
of  Europe. 

CHARACTER  OF  COOK'S  REPORTS. 

The  descriptions  which  Captain  Cook's  Voyages  contained,  of  the 
almost  primitive  simplicity,  natural  vivacity,  and  fascinating  man- 
ners, of  a  people  who  had  existed  for  ages,  isolated,  and  unknown 
to  the  rest  of  the  world,  were  so  entirely  new,  and  the  accounts 
given  of  the  mildness  and  salubrity  of  the  climate,  the  spontaneous 
abundance  of  delicious  fruits,  and  the  varied  and  delightful  appear- 
ance of  the  natural  scenery  in  the  Sandwich  and  other  islands  of  the 
Pacific,  were  so  enchanting,  that  many  individuals  were  led  to  imagine 
they  were  a  sort  of  elysium,  where  the  highly  favoured  inhabitants, 
free  from  the  toil  and  care,  the  want  and  disappointment,  which  mar 
the  happiness  of  civilized  communities,  dwelt  in  what  they  called  a 
state  of  nature,  and  spent  their  lives  in  unrestrained  gratification  and 
enjoyment. 

These  descriptions,  were,  I  am  convinced,  faithful  transcripts  of  the 
first  impressions  made  on  the  minds   of  Captain  Cook  and   his  com- 


18 

panions,  and  in  every  respect  correct,  so  far  as  their  partial  observa- 
tion extended. 

A  residence  of  eight  years  in  the  Society  and  Sandwich  islands, 
has  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  becoming  familiar  with  many  of 
the  scenes  and  usages  described  in  their,  voyages,  and  I  have  often 
been  struck  with  the  fidelity  with  which  they  are  uniformly  portrayed. 
In  the  inferences  they  draw,  and  the  reasons  they  assign,  they  are 
sometimes  mistaken;  but  in  the  description  of  what  they  saw  and 
heard,  there  is  throughout  a  degree  of  accuracy,  seldom  if  ever  ex- 
ceeded in  accounts  equally  minute  and  extended.  Still  their  acquain- 
tance with  the  islands  and  the  people  was  superficial,  and  the  state  of 
society  which  thoy  witnessed  was  different  from  what  generally 
existed. 

EFFECT  ON  NATIVES  OF  COOK'S  ARRIVAL. 

An  event  so  important  and  surprising  as  their  arrival, — the  ships 
and  the  foreigners, — the  colour,  dress,  arms,  language,  manners,  &c. 
of  the  latter,  whom  they  regarded  at  first  as  superior  beings,  so  power- 
fully affected  the  minds  of  the  natives,  that  the  ordinary  Avocations 
of  life  were  for  a  time  suspended.  The  news  of  such  an  event 
rapidly  spread  through  the  island  and  multitudes  flocked  from  every 
quarter  to  see  the  return  of  Orono,  or  the  motus,  (islands)  as  they 
called  their  ships. 

The  whole  island  was  laid  under  requisition,  to  supply  their  wants, 
or  contribute  to  their  satisfaction.  Hence  the  immense  quantity  of 
provisions  presented  by  Taraiopu;  the  dances,  &c.  with  which  they 
were  entertained.  The  effect  also  produced  on  the  minds  of  those 
early  visitors,  by  what  they  saw  during  their  transient  stay  among 
the  islands,  was  heightened  by  all  the  attractions  of  novelty,  and  all 
the  complacency  which  such  discoveries  naturally  inspire. 

IMPRESSION    OF    MISSIONARIES    DIFFERENT    FROM    COOK'S. 

Far  different  are  the  impressions  produced  on  the  minds  of  the 
missionaries  who  have  resided  for  some  years  in  the  islands.  Having 
acquired  their  language,  observed  their  domestic  economy,  and  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  nature  of  their  government,  the  sanguinary 
character  of  their  frequent  wars,  their  absurd  and  oppressive  system 
of  idolatry,  and  the  prevalence  of  human  sacrifice,  they  are  led,  from 
the  indubitable  facts  which  have  come  under  their  notice,  to  more 
just  and  accurate  conclusions  in  awful  accordance  with  the  faithful 
testimony  of  divine  revelation. 


19 
DESCRIPTION   OF  ISLANDS. 

Although  ten  in  number,  only  eight  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  are 
inhabited,  the  other  two  being  barren  rocks,  principally  resorted  to  by 
fishermen.  They  lie  within  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  between  18°  50'  and 
22°  20'  north  latitude,  and  between  154°  53'  and  160°  15'  west 
longitude  from  Greenwich,  about  one-third  of  the  distance  from  the 
western  coast  of  Mexico,  towards  the  eastern  shores  of  China.  The 
Sandwich  Islands  are  larger  than  the  Society  Islands,  or  any  of  the 
neighbouring  clusters. 

HAWAII,  the  principal  island  of  the  group,  resembles  in  shape  an 
equilateral  triangle,  and  is  somewhat  less  than  three  hundred  miles  in 
circumference,  being  about  ninety-seventy  miles  in  length,  seventy- 
eight  in  breadth,  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  circumference,  and 
covering  a  surface  of  4000  square  miles.  It  is  the  most  southern  of 
the  whole,  and,  on  account  of  its  great  elevation,  is  usually  the  first 
land  seen  from  vessels  approaching  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Its  broad 
base  and  regular  form  renders  its  outline  different  from  that  of  any 
other  island  in  the  Pacific  with  which  we  are  acquainted. 

The  mountains  of  Hawaii,  unlike  the  peak  of  Teneriffe  in  tha 
Atlantic,  the  mountains  of  Eimeo,  and  some  other  islands  of  the 
Pacific,  do  not  pierce  the  clouds  like  obelisks  or  spires,  but  in  most 
parts,  and  from  the  southern  shore  in  particular,  the  ascent  is  gradual, 
and  comparatively  unbroken,  from  the  sea  beach  to  the  lofty  summit 
of  Mouna  Eoa. 

HAWAII   COMPARED   "WITH  TAHITI. 

The  whole  appearance  of  Hawaii  is  less  romantic  and  picturesque 
than  that  of  Tahiti,  the  principal  of  the  Society  Islands,  but  more 
grand  and  sublime,  filling  the  mind  of  the  beholder  with  wonder  and 
delight. 

On  approaching  the  islands,  I  have  more  than  once  observed  the 
mountains  of  the  interior  long  before  the  coast  was  visible,  or  any  of 
the  usual  indications  of  land  had  been  seen.  On  these  occasions,  the 
elevated  summit  of  Mouna  Kea,  or  Mouna  Eoa,  has  appeared  above 
the  mass  of  clouds  that  usually  skirt  the  horizon,  like  a  stately  pyra- 
mid, or  the  silvered  dome  of  a  magnificent  temple,  distinguished  from 
the  clouds  beneath,  only  by  its  well-defined  outline,  unchanging  posi- 
tion, and  intensity  of  brilliancy  occasioned  by  the  reflection  of  the 
Bun's  rays  from  the  surface  of  the  snow. 

The  height  of  these  mountains  has  been  computed  by  some  navi- 
gators who  have  visited  the  Sandwich  Islands,  at  12,000,  and  by  others 


20 

at  18,000  feet.  The  estimate  of  Captain  King,*  we  think,  exceeds 
their  actual  elevation,  and  the  peaks  of  Mouna  Kea,  in  the  opinion 
of  those  of  our  number  who  have  ascended  its  summit,  arc  not  more 
than  1000  feet  high.  But  admitting  the  snow  to  remain  permanent  on 
the  mountains  of  the  torrid  zone  at  the  height  of  14,600  feet,  the 
altitude  of  Mouna  Kea  and  Mouna  Koa  is  probably  not  less  than  15,000 
feet. 

The  base  of  these  mountains,  is,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  from 
the  sea  shore,  covered  with  trees;  higher  up,  their  sides  are  clothed 
with  bushes,  ferns,  and  alpine  plants;  but  their  summits  are  formed 
of  lava,  partly  decomposed,  yet  destitute  of  every  kind  of  verdure. 

PEW  INLAND   SETTLEMENTS. 

There  are  a  few  inland  settlements  on  the  east  and  north-west  parts 
of  the  island,  but,  in  general,  the  interior  is  an  uninhabited  wilder- 
ness. 

The  heart  of  Hawaii,  forming  a  vast  central  valley  between  Mouna 
Boa,  Mouna  Kea,  and  Mouna  Huararai,  is  almost  unknown,  no  road 
leads  across  it  from  the  east  to  the  western  shore,  but  it  is  reported, 
by  the  natives  who  have  entered  it,  to  be  "bristled  with  forests  of 
ohia, "  or  to  exhibit  vast  tracts  of  sterile  and  indurated  lava. 

The  circumstance  of  large  flocks  of  wild  geese  being  frequently 
seen  in  the  mountains,  would  lead  to  the  supposition  that  there  must 
be  large  ponds  or  lakes  to  which  they  resort;  but  if  any  exist,  they 
have  hitherto  remained  undiscovered. 

The  greatest  part  of  the  land  capable  of  cultivation,  is  found  near 
the  sea  shore;  along  which,  the  towns  and  villages  of  the  natives  are 
thickly  scattered.  The  population  at  present  is  about  85,000,  and  will 
most  probably  be  greatly  increased  by  the  establishment  of  Christian- 
ity, whose  mild  influence,  it  may  reasonably  be  expected,  will  effect 
a  cessation  of  war,  an  abolition  of  infanticide,  and  a  diminution  of 
those  vices,  principally  of  foreign  origin,  which  have  hitherto  so  mate- 
rially contributed  to  the  depopulation  of  the  islands. 


*  In  Cook's  Voyages,  Captain  King,  speaking  of  Mouna-Kaah,  (Kea,)  remarks 
that  it  "may  be  clearly  seen  at  fourteen  leagues'  distance."  Describing  Mouna- 
Roa,  and  estimating  it  according  to  the  tropical  line  of  snow,  he  observes,  "This 
mountain  must  be  at  least  16.020  feet  high,  which  exceeds  the  height  of  the  Pico 
de  Teyde,  or  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  by  724  feet,  according  to  Dr.  Heberden's  com- 
putation, or  3680  according  to  that  of  Chevalier  de  Borda.  The  peaks  of  Mouna- 
Kaah  appeared  to  be  about  half  a  mile  high;  and  as  they  are  entirely  covered 
with  snow,  the  altitude  of  their  summits  cannot  be  less  than  18,400  feet.  But 
it  is  probable  that  both  these  mountains  may  be  considerably  higher;  for  in 
insular  situations,  the  effects  of  the  warm  sea  air  must  necessarily  remove  the 
line  of  snow,  in  equal  latitudes,  to  a  greater  height,  than  where  the  atmosphere 
is  chilled  on  all  sides  by  an  immense  tract  of  perpetual  snow." 


21 

IMPORTANCE  OF  HAWAII. 

Hawaii  is  by  far  the  largest,  most  populous,  and  important  island 
of  the  group,  and,  until  within  a  few  years,  was  the  usual  residence 
of  the  king,  and  the  frequent  resort  of  every  chief  of  importance  in 
the  other  islands.  Foreigners,  however,  having  of  late  found  the  har- 
bours of  some  of  the  leeward  islands  more  secure  and  convenient  than 
those  of  Hawaii,  have  been  induced  more  frequently  to  visit  them; 
and  this  has  led  the  king  and  principal  chiefs  to  forsake,  in  a  great 
degree,  the  favourite  residence  of  their  ancestors,  and  excepting  the 
governor,  and  the  chiefs  of  Kaavaroa,  to  spend  the  greater  part  of 
their  time  in  some  of  the  other  islands. 

MAUI  DESCRIBED. 

Separated  from  the  northern  shore  of  Hawaii  by  a  strait,  about 
twenty-four  miles  across,  the  island  of  MAUI  is  situated  in  lat.  20°  N. 
and  Ion.  157°  W.  This  island  is  forty-eight  miles  in  length,  in  the 
widest  part  twenty-nine  miles  across,  about  one  hundred  and  forty 
miles  in  circumference,  and  covers  about  600  square  miles.  At  a  dis- 
tance it  appears  like  two  distinct  islands,  but  on  nearer  approach  a 
low  isthmus,  about  nine  miles  across,  is  seen  uniting  the  two  penin- 
sulas. The  whole  island  is  entirely  volcanic,  and  was  probably  pro- 
duced by  the  action  of  two  adjacent  volcanoes,  which  have  ejected 
the  immense  masses  of  matter  of  which  it  is  composed.  The  appear- 
ance of  Maui  resembles  Tahiti  more  than  the  neighbouring  island  of 
Hawaii.  The  southern  peninsula,  which  is  the  largest  of  the  two,  is 
lofty;  but  though  its  summits  are  often  seen  above  the  clouds,  they 
are  never  covered  with  snow.  The  high  land  is  steep  and  rugged, 
and  frequently  marked  with  extinct  craters,  or  indurated  streams  of 
lava;  yet  whenever  the  volcanic  matters  have  undergone  any  degree 
of  decomposition,  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  as  well  as  the  ravines 
by  which  they  are  intersected,  are  covered  with  shrubs  and  trees. 

In  the  northern  peninsula  there  are  several  extensive  tracts  of  level 
and  well- watered  land,  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation;  and  although 
this  part  of  the  island  is  evidently  of  volcanic  formation,  the  marks 
of  recent  eruption,  so  frequent  in  the  southern  peninsula,  are  seldom 
seen  here.  The  population  of  Maui  has  been  estimated  at  18,000  or 
20,000,  and  the  number  of  inhabitants  do  not  probably  fall  short  of 
that  number. 

MISSION    ESTABLISHED    AT   LAHAINA. 

In  the  month  of  May,  1823,  a  Christian  Mission  was  commenced  at 
Lahaina,  the  most  important  and  populous  district  in  the  island,  and 


22 

the  endeavors  of  Messrs.  Stewart  and  Kichards  and  the  native  teach- 
ers by  whom  they  were  accompanied,  have  been  attended  with  the 
most  decisive  and  extensive  success.  Public  preaching  on  the  Sabbath 
is  regularly  attended  by  numerous  audiences,  and  thousands  of  the 
people  are  daily  receiving  instruction  in,  useful  knowledge,  and  the 
principles  of  Christianity,  in  the  various  native  schools,  which  are 
patronized  by  the  young  Prince  Kauikeouli,  younger  brother  and 
successor  to  the  late  king, — by  his  sister  Nahienaena, — and  by  all  the 
principal  chiefs  of  Maui.  The  most  lasting  benefits  may  be  expected 
to  result,  not  only  to  the  present  race,  but  to  every  future  generation 
of  the  inhabitants. 

KAHOOLAWE  AND  MOLOKINI  DESCRIBED. 

To  the  south  of  Maui,  and  only  a  few  miles  distant  from  its  southern 
peninsula,  is  situated  the  small  island  of  TAHAUEAWE,  about  eleven 
miles  in  length,  and  eight  across.  It  is  low,  and  almost  destitute  of 
every  kind  of  shrub  or  verdure,  excepting  a  species  of  coarse  grass. 
The  rocks  of  which  it  is  formed  are  volcanic,  but  we  are  not  aware 
of  the  existence  of  any  active  or  extinct  craters  on  the  island;  and 
from  its  shape  and  appearance,  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  once 
formed  a  part  of  Maui,  from  which  it  may  have  been  detached  by 
some  violent  convulsion  connected  with  the  action  of  the  adjacent 
volcanoes  of  Maui  or  Hawaii.  There  are  but  few  settled  residents 
on  the  island,  and  these  are  considered  as  under  the  authority  of  the 
governor  of  Maui. 

MOKOKENT,  a  barren  rock,  lies  between  these  two  islands,  and 
would  render  the  navigation  of  the  strait  exceedingly  dangerous,  were 
it  not  so  much  elevated  above  the  sea  as  to  be  at  all  times  visible 
from  vessels  passing  between  the  islands.  Morokini  is  only  visited 
by  fishermen,  who  on  its  barren  surface  spread  their  nets  to  dry,  and 
for  this  purpose  it  may  be  considered  a  convenient  appendange  to 
the  adjacent  islands. 

LANAI   DESCRIBED. 

EANAI,  a  compact  island,  seventeen  miles  in  length  and  nine  in 
breadth,  lies  north-west  of  Tahaurawe,  and  west  of  Lahaina,  in  Maui; 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  channel,  not  more  than  nine  or  ten 
miles  across.  Though  the  centre  of  the  island  is  much  more  elevated 
than  Tahaurawe,  it  is  neither  so  high  nor  broken  as  any  of  the  other 
islands:  great  part  of  it  is  barren,  and  the  island  in  general  suffers 
much  from  the  long  droughts  which  frequently  prevail;  the  ravines 
and  glens,  notwithstanding,  are  filled  with  thickets  of  small  trees,  and 
to  these  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Maui  repair  for  the  purpose  of 
cutting  posts  and  rafters  for  their  small  houses.     The  island  is  vol- 


23 

canic;  the  soil  shallow,  and  by  no  means  fertile;  the  shores,  however, 
abound  with  shell-fish,  and  some  species  of  medusae  and  cuttle-fish. 
The  inhabitants  are  but  few,  probably  not  exceeding  two  thousand. 
Native  teachers  are  endeavouring  to  instruct  them  in  useful  knowl- 
edge and  religious  truth,  but  no  foreign  missionary  has  yet  laboured 
on  this  or  the  neighboring  island  of  Morokai,  which  is  separated  from 
the  northern  side  of  Eanai,  and  the  eastern  end  of  Maui,  by  a  channel, 
which,  though  narrow,  is  sufficiently  wide  for  the  purposes  of  navi- 
gation. 

MOLOKAI  DESCRIBED. 

Morokai  is  a  long  irregular  island,  apparently  formed  by  a  chain  of 
volcanic  mountains,  forty  miles  in  length,  and  not  more  than  seven 
miles  broad;  the  mountains  are  nearly  equal  in  elevation  to  those  of 
Maui,  and  are  broken  by  numerous  deep  ravines  and  watercourses,  the 
sides  of  which  are  frequently  clothed  with  verdure,  and  ornamented 
with  shrubs  and  trees.  There  is  but  little  level  land  in  Morokai,  and 
consequently  but  few  plantations;  several  spots,  however,  are  fertile, 
and  repay  the  toils  of  their  cultivators.  The  population  is  greater 
than  that  of  Eanai,  though  it  does  not  probably  exceed  three  thou- 
sand persons.  Native  teachers  are  engaged  in  the  instruction  of  the 
people;  many  of  the  natives  also  occasionally  visit  the  missionary  sta- 
tions in  the  adjacent  islands  of  Oahu  and  Maui,  and  participate  in 
the  advantages  connected  with  these  institutions. 

OAHU  DESCRIBED. 

OAHU,  the  most  romantic  and  fertile  of  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
resembling  in  the  varied  features  of  its  natural  scenery,  several  of 
the  Society  Islands, — lies  nearly  west-north  west  of  Morokai,  from 
which  it  is  between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  distant.  This  beautiful 
island  is  about  forty-six  miles  long,  and  twenty-three  wide;  its  appear- 
ance from  the  roads  off  Honoruru,  or  Waititi  is  remarkably  pic- 
turesque: a  chain  of  lofty  mountains  rises  near  the  centre  of  the  east- 
ern part  of  the  island,  and,  extending  perhaps  twenty  miles,  reaches 
the  plain  of  Eva,  which  divides  it  from  the  distant  and  elevated  moun- 
tains that  rise  in  a  line  parallel  with  the  north-west  shore.  The  plain 
of  Eva  is  nearly  twenty  miles  in  length,  from  the  Pearl  River  to 
Waiarua,  and  in  some  parts  nine  or  ten  miles  across:  the  soil  is  fertile, 
and  watered  by  a  number  of  rivulets,  which  wind  their  way  along  the 
deep  water-courses  that  intersect  its  surface,  and  empty  themselves 
into  the  sea.  Though  capable  of  a  high  state  of  improvement,  a  very 
small  portion  of  it  is  enclosed,  or  under  any  kind  of  culture;  and  in 
travelling  across  it,  scarce  a  habitation  is  to  be  seen.  The  whole 
island  is  volcanic,  and,  in  many  parts,  extinguished  craters  of  largo 


24 

dimensions  may  be  seen;  but,  from  the  depth  of  mould  with  which 
they  are  covered,  and  the  trees  and  shrubs  with  which  they  are 
clothed  it  may  be  presumed  that  many  ages  have  elapsed  since  any 
eruption  took  place. 

HONOLULU  GEOLOGICALLY  DESCRIBED. 

The  plain  of  Honoruru  exhibits  in  a  singular  manner  the  extent 
and  effects  of  volcanic  agency;  it  is  not  less  than  nine  or  ten  miles  in 
length,  and,  in  some  parts,  two  miles  from  the  sea  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountains;  the  whole  plain  is  covered  with  a  rich  alluvial  soil,  fre- 
quently two  or  three  feet  deep;  beneath  this,  a  layer  of  fine  volcanic 
ashes  and  cinders  extends  to  the  depth  of  fourteen  or  sixteen  feet; 
these  ashes  lie  upon  a  stratum  of  solid  rock  by  no  means  volcanic, 
but  evidently  calcareous,  and  apparently  a  kind  of  sediment  deposited 
by  the  sea,  in  which  branches  of  white  coral,  bones  of  fish  and  ani- 
mals, and  several  varieties  of  marine  shells,  are  often  found.  A  num- 
ber of  wells  have  been  recently  dug  in  different  parts  of  the  plain,  in 
which,  after  penetrating  through  the  calcareous  rock,  sometimes 
twelve  or  thirteen  feet,  good  clear  water  has  been  always  found:  the 
water  in  all  these  wells  is  perfectly  free  from  any  salt  or  brackish 
taste,  though  it  invariably  rises  and  falls  with  the  tide,  which  would 
lead  to  the  supposition  that  it  is  connected  with  the  waters  of  the 
adjacent  ocean,  from  which  the  wells  are  from  100  yards  to  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  distant.  The  rock  is  always  hard  and  compact 
near  the  surface,  but  becomes  soft  and  porous  as  the  depth  increases; 
and  it  is  possible  that  the  water  in  these  wells  may  have  percolated 
through  the  cells  of  the  rock,  and  by  this  process  of  filtration  have 
lost  its  saline  qualities.  The  base  of  the  mountains  which  bound  the 
plain  in  the  interior  appears  to  have  formed  the  original  line  of  coast 
on  this  side  of  the  island,  but  probably  in  some  remote  period  an 
eruption  took  place  from  two  broad-based  truncated  mountains,  called 
by  foreigners  Diamond  Hill  and  Punchbowl  Hill,  evidently  extin- 
guished craters;  the  ashes  and  cinders  then  thrown  out  were  wafted 
by  the  trade-winds  in  a  westerly  direction,  filled  up  the  sea,  and 
formed  the  present  extensive  plain;  the  soil  of  its  surface  having  been 
subsequently  produced  either  by  the  decomposition  of  lava,  or  the 
mould  and  decayed  vegetable  matter  washed  down  from  the  mountains 
during  the  rainy  season  of  the  year. 

NUTJANU  VALLEY   IN   1823. 

Across  this  plain,  immediately  opposite  the  harbour  of  Honoruru,'  lies 
the  valley  of  Anuanu,  leading  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains,  called  by 
the  natives  Ka  Pari,  the  precipice,  which  is  well  worth  the  attention 
of  every  intelligent  foreigner  visiting  Oahu.  The  mouth  of  the  valley, 
which  opens  immediately  behind  the  town  of  Honoruru,  is  a  complete 


25 

garden,  carefully  kept  by  its  respective  proprietors  in  a  state  of  high 
cultivation;  and  the  ground  being  irrigated  by  the  water  from  a  river 
that  winds  rapidly  down  the  valley,  is  remarkably  productive.  The 
valley  rises  with  a  gradual  ascent  from  the  shore  to  the  precipice, 
which  is  seven  or  eight  miles  from  ttie  town.  After  walking 
about  three  miles  through  one  unbroken  series  of  plantations,  the 
valley  becomes  gradually  narrower,  and  the  mountains  rise  more  steep 
on  either  side.  The  scenery  is  romantic  and  delightful:  the  bottom  of 
the  valley  is  gently  undulated;  a  rapid  stream  takes  its  serpentine 
way  from  one  side  of  the  valley  to  the  other,  sometimes  meandering 
along  with  an  unruffled  surface,  at  other  times  rushing  down  a  fall 
several  feet,  or  dashing  and  foaming  among  the  rocks  that  interrupt 
its  progress. 

The  sides  of  the  hills  are  clothed  with  verdure;  even  the  barren 
rocks  that  project  from  among  the  bushes  are  ornamented  with  pendu- 
lous or  creeping  plants  of  various  kinds;  and  in  several  places,  beauti- 
ful cascades  roll  their  silvery  streams  down  the  steep  mountain's  side 
into  flowing  rivulets  beneath. 

NUTJANTJ  PALI. 

The  beauty  of  the  scenery  around  increases,  until  at  length,  after 
walking  some  time  on  a  rising  ground  rather  more  steep  than  usual, 
and  through  a  thicket  of  hibiscus  and  other  trees,  the  traveller  sud- 
dently  emerges  into  an  open  space,  and,  turning  round  a  small  pile 
of  volcanic  rocks,  the  Pari  all  at  once  bursts  upon  him  with  an  almost 
overwhelming  effect. 

Immense  masses  of  black  and  ferruginous  volcanic  rock,  many  hun- 
dred feet  in  nearly  perpendicular  height,  present  themselves  on  both 
sides  to  his  astonished  view;  while  immediately  before  him,  he  looks 
down  the  fearful  steep  several  hundred  feet,  and  beholds  hills  and 
valleys,  trees  and  cottages,  meandering  streams  and  winding  paths, 
cultivated  plantations  and  untrodden  thickets,  and  a  varied  landscape 
many  miles  in  extent,  bounded  by  lofty  mountains  on  the  one  side, 
and  the  white-crested  waves  of  the  ocean  on  the  other — spread  out 
before  him  as  if  by  the  hand  of  enchantment. 

I  have  several  times  visited  this  romantic  spot,  and  once  climbed 
the  rocky  precipice  from  the  district  of  Kolau,  on  the  northern  side: 
the  ascent  is  at  first  gradual  and  easy,  but  in  two  places,  towards  the 
highest  edge,  the  volcanic  rocks  appear  to  rise  perpendicularly,  pre- 
senting an  even,  and  apparently  projecting  front,  which  it  seems  im- 
possible to  ascend;  but  though  the  passage  is  thus  difficult,  and  the 
elevation  of  the  upper  ridge,  over  which  the  path  leads,  is  from  four 
to  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  land  below,  yet  the  natives  not 
only  pass  and  repass  without  much  difficulty,  but  often  carry  heavy 
burdens  from  one  side  to  the  other. 


26 

TALES  OF  THE  PALI. 

It  is  reported  that  a  native  female,  on  one  occasion,  carried  her 
husband,  who  was  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  down  the  precipice  in 
safety.  This  appears  hardly  possible,  and  the  story  is  probably  one 
of  those  fabulous  wonders,  with  which  inquiring  foreigners  are  often 
entertained  during  their  stay  among  the  islands. 

On  one  of  my  visits,  however,  I  saw  a  party,  heavily  laden  with 
provisions  for  the  king's  household,  ascend  the  Pari,  and  one  of  them 
had  a  pig  of  no  very  small  size  fastened  on  his  back,  with  which  he 
climbed  the  steep,  but  not  without  difficulty. 

THE  GODS  OP  THE   PALI. 

Within  a  few  yards  of  the  upper  edge  of  the  pass,  under  the  shade 
of  surrounding  bushes  and  trees,  two  rude  and  shapeless  stone  idols 
are  fixed,  one  on  each  side  of  the  path,  which  the  native  call  "Akua 
no  ka  Pari,"  gods  of  the  precipice;  they  are  usually  covered  with 
pieces  of  white  tapa,  native  cloth;  and  every  native  who  passes  by  to 
the  precipice,  if  he  intends  to  descend,  lays  a  green  bough  before  these 
idols,  encircles  them  with  a  garland  of  flowers,  or  wraps  a  piece  of 
tapa  round  them,  to  render  them  propitious  to  his  descent.  All  who 
ascend  from  the  opposite  side  make  a  similar  acknowledgment  for  the 
supposed  protection  of  the  deities,  whom  they  imagine  to  preside  over 
the  fearful  pass.  This  practice  appears  universal,  for  in  our  travels 
among  the  islands,  we  have  seldom  passed  any  steep  or  dangerous 
paths,  at  the  commencement  or  termination  of  which  we  have  not  seen 
these  images,  with  heaps  of  offerings  lying  before  them. 

SURVIVAL  OP  SUPERSTITION. 

Until  very  recently,  it  is  evident  the  influence  of  superstition  was 
very  strong  in  the  minds  of  the  great  mass  of  the  people,  for  although 
the  natives  who  accompanied  us  in  our  excursions,  either  from  a  convic- 
tion of  the  absurdity  of  the  notions  of  their  countrymen,  or  from  mere 
wantonness,  usually  overturned  the  idols,  battered  them  with  stone, 
or  rolled  them  down  the  precipice  or  passage  which  they  were  sup- 
posed to  defend;  yet  on  passing  the  same  path  only  a  very  short  time 
afterwards,  we  have  invariably  found  them  replaced;  or,  if  broken, 
their  places  supplied  by  fresh  ones.  This  conduct  of  our  native  com- 
panions was  never  the  consequence  of  our  directions,  and  seldom 
received  our  approbation,  for  we  were  not  ambitious  to  become  Icono- 
clasts; our  object  was  rather  to  enlighten  the  minds  of  the  people,  and 
convince  them  of  the  absurdity  and  evil  of  idolatry,  to  present  before 
them  the  true  God  as  the  only  legitimate  object  of  rational  homage, 
lead  them  to  the  exercise  of  a  better  faith,  and  the  adoption  of  a  purer 
worship;  well  assured  that,  if  under  the  blessing  of  God  we  succeeded 
in  this,  they  themselves  would,   with  the   adoption   of   the   Christian 


27 

system,  not  only  renounce  idolatry,  but  abolish  the   appendages  by 
which  it  was  upheld. 

THE   BATTLE   OF   NUUANTT. 

The  Pari  of  Anuanu  was  an  important  position  in  times  of  war,  and 
the  parties  in  possession  of  it  were  usually  masters  of  the  island.  In 
its  vicinity  many  sanguinary  battles  have  been  fought,  and  near  it  the 
independence  of  Oahu  was  lost  in  or  about  the  year  1790.  Tameha- 
meha  invaded  Oahu;  the  king  of  the  island  assembled  his  forces  to 
defend  his  country,  between  Honoruru  and  the  Pearl  river;  an  engage- 
ment took  place,  in  which  his  army  was  defeated,  and  his  ally,  Taeo, 
king  of  Tauai  and  Nihau,  was  slain.  The  king  of  Oahu  retreated 
to  the  valley  of  Anuanu,  where  he  was  joined  by  Taiana,  an  ambitious 
and  warlike  chief  of  Hawaii.  Hither  Tamehameha  and  his  victorious 
warriors  pursued  them,  and,  about  two  miles  from  the  Pari,  the  last 
battle  in  Oahu  was  fought.  Here  the  king  of  Oahu  was  slain,  his 
army  fled  towards  the  precipice,  chased  by  the  warriors  of  Tameha- 
meha; at  the  edge  of  the  Pari,  Taiana  made  a  stand,  and  defended  it 
till  he  fell:  the  troops  of  the  fallen  chiefs  still  continued  the  conflict, 
till  being  completely  routed,  a  number  of  them,  it  is  said  four  hun- 
dred, were  driven  headlong  over  the  precipice,  dashed  to  pieces  among 
the  fragments  of  rock  that  lie  at  its  base,  and  Tamehameha  remained 
master  of  the  field,  and  sovereign  of  the  island. 

The  natives  still  point  out  the  spot  where  the  king  of  the  island 
stood,  when  he  hurled  his  last  spear  at  the  advancing  foe,  and  received 
the  fatal  wound;  and  many  as  they  pass  by,  turn  aside  from  the  path, 
place  their  feet  on  the  identical  spot  where  he  is  said  to  have  stood, 
assume  the  attitude  in  which  he  is  supposed  to  have  received  his 
mortal  wound,  and,  poising  their  staff  or  their  spear,  tell  their  chil- 
dren or  companions  that  there  the  last  King  of  Oahu  died  defending 
his  country  from  its  invading  enemies. 

THE  CITY  OF  HONOLULU  IN  1823. 

Immediately  south  of  the  valley  of  Anuanu  is  situated  the  town  and 
harbour  of  Honoruru;  the  harbour  is  the  best,  and  indeed  the  only 
secure  one  at  all  seasons,  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  is  more  fre- 
quented by  foreign  vessels  than  any  other;  seldom  having  within  it 
less  than  three  or  four,  and  sometimes  upward  of  thirty,  lying  at 
anchor  at  the  same  time. 

The  town  has  also,  since  the  number  of  shipping  has  increased, 
become  populous,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  islands,  usually  con- 
taining 6000  or  7000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  frequent  residence  of  the 
kin^  and  principal  chiefs,  who  are  much  engaged  in  traffic  with 
foreigners  visiting  the  islands,  or  residing  on  shore,  for  purposes  of 
trade. 


28 

There  are  twelve  or  fourteen  merchants,  principally  Americans,  who 
have  established  warehouses  on  shore  for  foreign  goods,  principally 
piece  goods,  hardware,  crockery,  hats  and  shoes,  naval  stores,  &c, 
which  they  retail  to  the  natives  for  Spanish  dollars  or  sandal  wood. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  basin  is  a  strong  fort,  one  hundred  yards 
square,  mounting  sixty  guns.  It  was  begun  by  the  Russians,  who 
were  expelled  but  finished  by  the  natives,  from  an  apprehension  that 
these  foreigners,  in  connexion  with  the  Russian  settlements  on  the 
north-west  coast  of  America,  were  about  to  take  possession  of  the 
island. 

FOUNDING  OP  THE  AMERICAN  MISSION. 

Here  also,  in  the  month  of  April,  1820,  an  American  mission  was 
commenced,  which,  under  God,  has  been  the  means  of  producing  a 
most  happy  moral  and  domestic  change  in  the  character  of  many  of 
the  people,  whose  advancement  in  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  as  well  as 
Christian  knowledge,  is  truly  gratifying.  Several  thousands  are  under 
religious  instruction,  and  numbers  regularly  attend  the  preaching  of 
the  gospel,  which  we  earnestly  hope  will  result  in  the  conversion  of 
many.  Several  have  forsaken  their  grass  huts,  and  erected  com- 
fortable stone  or  wooden  houses,  among  which,  one  built  by  Karai- 
moku,  the  prime  minister,  is  highly  creditable  to  his  perseverance  and 
his  taste. 

THE    MOANALUA    SALT    LAKE. 

About  six  miles  to  the  west  of  Honoruru,  and  nearly  as  far  from 
the  village  of  Eva,  on  the  Pearl  river,  there  is  a  singular  natural 
curiosity,  a  small  circular  lake,  situated  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
sea  shore,  so  impregnated  with  salt,  that  twice  in  the  year  the  natives 
take  out  between  two  and  three  hundred  barrels  of  fine,  clear,  hard, 
crystallized  salt:  this  lake  is  not  only  an  interesting  natural  curiosity, 
but  an  important  appendage  to  the  island.  It  belongs  to  the  king, 
and  is  not  only  useful  in  curing  large  quantities  of  fish,  but  furnishes 
a  valuable  article  of  commerce;  quantities  of  it  having  been  sent  for 
sale  to  Kamtschatka,  and  used  in  curing  seal  skins  at  the  different 
islands  to  which  the  natives  have  sent  their  vessels  for  that  purpose, 
or  sold  in  the  islands  to  Russian  vessels,  from  the  settlements  on  the 
north-west  coast  of  America.  The  population  of  Oahu  is  estimated  at 
about  20,000. 

THE   ISLAND   OF   KAUAI. 

North-west  of  Oahu,  and  distant  from  it  about  seventy-five  miles, 
is  situated  the  island  of  Tauai,  which  is  a  mountainous  island,  exceed- 
ingly romantic  in  its  appearance,  but  not  so  fertile  as  Oahu,  or  the 
greater  part   of  Maui.     It  is  forty-six  miles   in  length,   and  twenty- 


29 

three  in  breadth,  and  covers  a  surface  of  520  square  miles.  The  popu- 
lation probably  amounts  to  nearly  10,000.  The  principal  settlements 
are  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Waimea  river,  the  roads  at  the  entrance 
of  which  are  the  usual  resort  of  vessels  touching  at  Tauai.  Near  the 
mouth  of  the  river  is  a  strong  fort,  in  excellent  repair,  mounting 
twenty-two  guns.  It  was  erected  several  years  since,  and  is  well 
adapted  for  defence. 

CESSION  OF  KAUAI  AND  NIIHAU  AND  A  REBELLION. 

This,  and  the  neighbouring  island  of  Nihau,  were  not  invaded  and 
conquered  by  Tamehameha,  by  whom  all  the  other  islands  of  the 
group  were  subdued.  Taumuarii,  the  king,  rendered  a  tacit  acknowl- 
edgment of  dependence  on  that  ambitious  prince,  and  paid  annually 
a  nominal  tribute  both  to  him,  and  his  son,  the  late  Eihoriho,  and, 
shortly  before  his  death,  which  took  place  in  1824,  he  formally  ceded 
the  islands  which  he  had  governed  to  Karaimoku,  the  present  regent 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  for  the  king,  who  was  then  absent  on  a  visit 
to  Great  Britain. 

The  son  of  the  late  king,  and  several  old  warriors,  dissatisfied  with 
the  conduct  of  their  sovereign,  took  up  arms  to  rescue  the  islands 
from  the  dominion  of  the  chiefs  of  the  windwards  island,  but  being  de- 
feated in  a  battle  fought  in  a  valley  near  Waimea,  the  island  is 
now  under  the  authority  of  the  young  prince  Kauikeouli,  the  successor 
to  Eihoriho,  and  the  present  sovereign  of  the  whole  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands. 

ESTABLISHMENT  OP  THE  MISSION  ON  KAUAI. 

Soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  Mission  in  Oahu,  a  similar 
institution  was  commenced  in  Tauai,  under  the  friendly  auspices  of 
the  late  king,  and  continued  to  prosper  until  the  civil  war,  which 
followed  his  death,  obliged  the  Missionaries  to  remove  from  the 
island,  and  suspend  their  endeavours  for  the  instruction  of  the  natives. 
Since  the  restoration  of  peace,  however,  their  labours  have  been 
resumed  with  more  extensive  and  encouraging  prospects  of  success 
than  had  been  previously  enjoyed.  The  inhabitants  are  in  general 
a  hardy  and  industrious  race;  but  it  is  remarkable  that  in  their 
language  they  employ  the  t  in  all  those  words  in  which  the  k  would 
be  used  by  the  natives  of  the  other  islands. 

THE  ISLAND  OP  NIIHAU. 

NIHAU,  a  small  island,  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  seven  miles 
wide,  politically  connected  with  Tauai,  lies  in  a  westerly  direction, 
about  fifteen  miles  distant.  The  inhabitants  are  not  numerous,  and, 
in  the  general  features  of  their  character,  resemble  the  people  of 
Tauai. 


30 

These  islands  are  celebrated  throughout  the  whole  group  for  the 
manufacture  of  the  fine  painted  or  variegated  mats,  so  much  admired 
by  foreigners,  and  which,  for  the  purpose  of  sleeping  on,  the  chiefs 
in  all  the  islands  prefer  to  any  others. 

These  mats  are  sometimes  very  large,  measuring  eighteen  or  twenty 
yards  in  length,  and  three  or  four  yards  in  breadth,  yet  they  are 
woven  by  the  hand,  without  any  loom  or  frame,  with  surprising  regu- 
larity and  exactness. 

They  are  made  with  a  fine  kind  of  rush,  part  of  which  they  stain 
of  a  red  colour  with  vegetable  dyes,  and  form  their  beautiful  patterns 
by  weaving  them  into  the  mat  at  its  first  fabrication,  or  weaving  them 
in  after  it  is  finished. 

The  natives  of  these  islands  are  also  distinguished  for  the  culti- 
vation of  the  yam,  which  grows  very  large,  both  at  Tauai  and  Nihau, 
and  contributes  essentially  to  the  support  of  the  inhabitants.  As 
they  are  not  cultivated  to  any  extent  in  the  other  islands,  many  ships 
are  induced  to  visit  there,  principally  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a 
supply;  they  are  not  only  an  excellent  root,  but  will  keep  a  long  time 
at  sea  without  deterioration. 

THE   ISLAND   OF   KAULA. 

TAUEA,  is  another  small  island  belonging  to  tne  group,  lying  in  a 
south-western  direction  from  Tauai;  but  it  is  only  a  barren  rock,  the 
resort  of  vast  numbers  of  aquatic  birds,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
which,  it  is  occasionally  visited  by  the  natives  of  the  windward 
islands. 

Adjacent  to  the  shores  of  most  of  the  islands,  small  reefs  of  white 
coral,  common  throughout  the  Pacific,  are  occasionally  found;  but 
they  are  not  so  varied  in  their  kind,  so  frequently  met  with,  nor  so 
extensive,  as  in  all  the  southern  islands. 

The  climate  is  not  insalubrious,  though  warm,  and  debilitating  to 
an  European  constitution.  There  is  nothing  Like  winter;  and  the  only 
variation  in  the  uniformity  of  the  seasons,  is  occasioned  by  the  fre- 
quent and  heavy  rains,  which  usually  fall  between  December  and 
March,  and  the  prevalence  of  southerly  and  variable  winds  during  the 
same  season. 

The  following  tabular  view  of  a  meteorological  journal,  kept  by  the 
American  missionaries,  will  show  more  fully  the  state  of  the  weather 
for  a  year,  from  August,  1821,  to  July,  1822;  the  thermometer  was 
noted  at  8  a.  m.,  3  p.  m.  and  8  p.  m.: 


-u 

S3 

t- 

u 

rt 

© 

© 

A 

+J 

« 

a> 

© 

^5 

-3    3^3    3          3 
3  ,2    3,2    o         o 

,2  ©  o  ©  ^      '& 

©               l-H 

© 

-*-* 

2°£m        cq 

© 

O 
QQ 

g  P  «3  © 
e  £>  °  ° 

3    g    3    D    P 

rt    _,    pi    C    PI 

ci   o   a   c;  .-; 

—                  ^_(      ^h      ^H 

2  2  £  2  S      S 
5  o-  o-g       -g 

SHO0H             02 

CJD 

CQ 
>> 

"3 

© 

c 

^  rQ  rg  T3  ^  CO  "I 

ol 
PI  « 

© 

a 

.^^   ...  . 

H^lolO'*     PjW 

O  ^3 
■*3 

t.     2     U     f-     H 

rt    5    ^    eS    c3 

3  e  c  a  e  "p  p! 

d  ° 

«  'g  o  o  o 

'3  '3  '3  '3  '3  ,2  '3 

'3 

5s535 

P3MP3pqtfo« 

P3 

"3  °- 

N 

©           © 

S»1 

pa*  p4  w  h*  £ 

■§HH"3  E=q  f4  H 

H 

(3    ^  •? 
©    3    p 

fc  &  fc  fc  •« 

3  3  ^i  3  "^  ^  ^ 

fe 

fc 

>         > 

£  ©  © 

Mo  a 
emp 
atur 

OS  00  CO  CO  CI 

O  H  ffl  M  !S  00  00 

kO 

b»  b-  b-  b-  b- 

b-  b-  b-  b-  b-  b-  b- 

b- 

Eh 

o 

„ 

. 

O  •*  B3  O  00 

O  O  LO  00  O  H  CO 

CO 

c3    © 

00  CO  CO  GO  b- 

b-  b-  b-  b-  CO  CO  CO 

oo 

I-   tc 

2  fl 

°     1       1       1       I 

| 

(3    S 

*•     1 

1 

S« 

LO  a  3  O  O 

00  CO  r-f  Ol  LO  CO  o 

o 

b-  b-  b-  b-  b- 

CO  CO  b-  b-  b-  b-  b- 

b- 

® 

CD 

0 

c 

■tMcOHOO 

i—l  CO  CXI  OS  OS  CO  c 

b- 

CJ 

i-i  i-l  i-l  r-l  rH 

CM  i-l  i-l  i-i         i-i  i-i 

cn 

K 

43 

to  ■*» 

k   - 

•f  -fl  CO  H  ?1 

os  i-i  co  en  cxi  ih  -* 

rH 

o  © 

b-  b-  b-  b-  CO 

lO  CO  CO  CO  b-  b-   b- 

CO 

h-5^ 

■+j 

32 

O   4» 

■H   si 

CO  S  3  CI  C 

O  b-  00  i-l  r-l  -#  T* 

o 

d  a> 

CO  CO  CO  CO  cc 

CO  b-  b-  CO  CO  CO  CC 

00 

S  -3 

tS 

Fh 

S3 

© 

QQ 

>> 

W 

CXI 

© 

o 

1—1 

CM 

CO 

1-1 

9 

»- 
a 

& 

e  i 

00 

i-i 

> 

+-> 
o 

M 

•2  >- 

>-»  ^ 

«H 

f1 

-4- 

\ 

< 

! 

a 

c 

e 

1 

a 

s 

p 
h 

a 

— 
;- 

i 

IS 

I 

> 

> 

= 

© 

32 

Eain  falls  but  seldom  on  the  western  shores  of  any  of  the  islands, 
excepting  in  the  season  above  mentioned,  though  showers  are  fre- 
quent on  the  eastern  or  windward  side,  and  in  the  mountains  occur 
almost  daily. 

The  soil  is  rich  in  those  parts  which  have  long  been  free  from 
volcanic  eruptions;  but  the  general  appearance  of  the  country  is 
hardly  so  inviting  as  when  first  discovered;  many  parts,  then  under 
cultivation,  are  now  lying  waste. 

PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  NATIVES. 

The  natives  are  in  general  rather  above  the  middle  stature,  well 
formed,  with  fine  muscular  limbs,  open  countenances,  and  features  fre- 
quently resembling  those  of  Europeans.  Their  gait  is  graceful,  and 
sometimes  stately. 

The  chiefs  in  particular  are  tall  and  stout,  and  their  personal 
appearance  is  so  much  superior  to  that  of  the  common  people,  that 
some  have  imagined  them  a  distinct  race.  This,  however,  is  not  the 
fact;  the  great  care  taken  of  them  in  childhood,  and  their  better  liv- 
ing, have  probably  occasioned  the  difference.  Their  hair  is  black  or 
brown,  strong,  and  frequently  curly;  their  complexion  is  neither  yel- 
low like  the  Malays,  nor  red  like  the  American  Indians,  but  a  kind 
of  olive,  and  sometimes  reddish-brown.  Their  arms,  and  other  parts 
of  the  body,  are  tatau'd;  but,  except  in  one  of  the  islands,  this  is  by 
no  means  so  common  as  in  many  parts  of  the  Southern  sea. 

POPULATION   IN    1823 — CAUSES    OF   DEPOPULATION. 

Compared  with  the  inhabitants  of  other  islands,  they  may  be  termed 
numerous.  They  were  estimated  by  their  discoverers  at  400,000. 
There  is  reason  to  believe  this  was  somewhat  above  the  actual  popu- 
lation at  that  time,  though  traces  of  deserted  villages,  and  numerous 
enclosures  formerly  cultivated,  but  now  abandoned,  are  every  where 
to  be  met  with. 

At  present  it  does  not  exceed  130,000  or  150,000,  of  which  85,000 
inhabit  the  island  of  Hawaii. 

The  rapid  depopulation  which  has  most  certainly  taken  place  within 
the  last  fifty  years,  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  frequent  and  desolating 
wars  which  marked  the  early  part  of  Tamehameha's  reign;  the  rav- 
ages of  a  pestilence  brought  in  the  first  instance  by  foreign  vessels, 
which  has  twice,  during  the  above  period,  swept  through  the  islands; 
the  awful  prevalence  of  infanticide;  and  the  melancholy  increase  and 
destructive  consequences  of  depravity  and  vice. 

ANIMALS  OF  HAWAII. 
The  natural  history  of  the  islands,  as  it  regards  the  animal  king- 
dom, is   exceedingly   circumscribed.     The   only   quadrupeds   originally 


33 

found  inhabiting  them,  were  a  small  species  of  hogs,  with  long  heads 
and  small  erect  ears;  dogs,  lizards,  and  an  animal  larger  than  a  mouse, 
but  smaller  than  a  rat.  There  were  no  beasts  of  prey,  nor  any  feroc- 
ious animals,  except  the  hogs,  which  were  sometimes  found  wild  in 
the  mountains. 

There  are  now  large  herds  of  cattle  in  Hawaii,  and  some  tame  ones 
in  most  of  the  islands,  together  with  flocks  of  goats,  and  a  few  horses 
and  sheep,  which  have  been  taken  there  at  different  times,  principally 
from  the  adjacent  continent  of  America. 

Horses,  cattle,  and  goats,  thrive  well,  but  the  climate  appears  too 
warm  for  sheep,  unless  they  are  kept  on  the  mountains,  which,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  keenness  of  the  air,  are  seldom  inhabited  by  the 
natives. 

BIRDS  OF  HAWAII — ABSENCE  OF  REPTILES. 

Birds,  excepting  those  which  are  aquatic,  and  a  species  of  owl  that 
preys  upon  mice,  are  seldom  seen  near  the  shores.  In  the  mountains 
they  are  numerous;  and  the  notes  of  one  kind,  whose  colour  is  brown 
and  yellow  speckled,  are  exceedingly  sweet,  resembling  those  of  the 
English  thrush.  Several  are  remarkably  beautiful,  among  which  may 
be  reckoned  a  small  kind  of  paroquet  of  a  glossy  purple,  and  a  species 
of  red,  yellow,  and  green  woodpecker,  with  whose  feathers  the  gods 
were  dressed,  and  the  helmets  and  handsome  cloaks  of  the  chiefs  are 
ornamented.  But  the  feathered  tribes  of  Hawaii  are  not  in  general 
distinguished  by  variety  of  plumage,  or  melody  in  their  notes. 

There  are  wild  geese  in  the  mountains,  and  ducks  near  the  lagoons 
or  ponds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sea  shore;  the  domestic  fowl  was  found 
there  by  their  first  discoverer,  and  though  now  seldom  used  as  an  arti- 
cle of  food,  is  raised  for  the  supply  of  shipping. 

In  common  with  the  other  islands  of  the  Pacific,  they  are  entirely 
free  from  every  noxious  and  poisonous  reptile,  excepting  centipedes, 
which  are  neither  large  nor  numerous. 

FISH,    VEGETABLES    AND    FRUIT    IN   HAWAII. 

Fish  are  not  so  abundant  on  their  shores  as  around  many  of  the 
other  islands;  they  have,  however,  several  varieties,  and  the  in- 
habitants procure  a  tolerable  supply. 

The  vegetable  productions,  though  less  valuable  and  abundant  than 
in  some  of  the  islands  both  to  the  west  and  the  south,  are  found  in 
no  small  variety,  and  the  most  serviceable  are  cultivated  with  facility. 

The  natives  subsist  principally  on  the  roots  of  the  arum  esculentum, 
which  tliey  call  taro,  on  the  convulvulus  batatas,  or  sweet  potato, 
called  by  thcrn  uara,  and  uhi,  or  yam. 

The    principal    indigenous   fruits   are    the    uru,    or   bread-fruit;    the 


34 

niu,  or  cocoa-nut;  the  maia,  or  plantain;  the  ohia,  a  species  of  eugenia; 
and  the  strawberry  and  raspberry. 

Oranges,  limes,  citrons,  grapes,  pine-apples,  papaw-apples,  cucum- 
bers, and  water  melons,  have  been  introduced,  and,  excepting  the  pine- 
apples, thrive  well.  French  beans,  onions,  pumpkins,  and  cabbages, 
have  also  been  added  to  their  vegetables,  and,  though  not  esteemed 
by  the  natives,  are  cultivated  to  some  extent,  for  the  purpose  of  sup- 
plying the  shipping. 

COMMERCIAL   ADVANTAGES    OP    HAWAII. 

Sugar-cane  is  indigenous,  and  grows  to  a  large  size,  though  it  is  not 
much  cultivated. 

Large  tracts  of  fertile  land  lie  waste  in  most  of  the  islands;  and 
sugar-cane,  together  with  cotton,  coffee,  and  other  valuable  inter- 
tropical productions,  might  be  easily  raised  in  considerable  quantities, 
which  will,  probably,  be  the  case  when  the  natives  become  more  in- 
dustrious and  civilized. 

The  local  situation  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  is  important,  and  highly 
advantageous  for  purposes  of  commerce,  &c.  On  the  north  are  the 
Russian  settlements  in  Kamtschatka,  and  the  neighbouring  coast;  to 
the  north-west  the  islands  of  Japan;  due  west  the  Marian  islands, 
Manila  in  the  Philippines,  and  Canton  in  China;  and  on  the  east  the 
coast  of  California  and  Mexico.  Hence  they  are  so  frequently  re- 
eorted  to  by  vessels  navigating  the  northern  Pacific. 

The  establishment  of  the  independent  states  of  South  America  has 
greatly  increased  their  importance,  as  they  lie  in  the  track  of  vessels 
passing  from  thence  to  China,  or  Calcutta  and  other  parts  of  India, 
and>  are  not  only  visited  by  these,  but  by  those  who  trade  for  skins, 
&c.  with  the  natives  of  the  north-west  coast  of  America. 

VISITS  TO  HAWAII  AFTER  DISCOVERY. 

From  the  time  of  their  discovery,  the  Sandwich  Islands  were  un- 
visited  until  1786,  when  Captains  Dixon  and  Portlock,  in  a  trading 
voyage  to  the  north-west  coast  for  furs  and  sea-otter  skins,  anchored, 
and  procured  refreshments  in  the  island  of  Oahu.  The  island  of  Maui 
was  visited  about  the  same  time  by  the  unfortunate  La  Perouse. 

After  this  period  the  islands  were  frequently  visited  by  vessels  en- 
gaged in  the  fur  trade.  Captain  Douglas,  of  the  Iphigenia,  and  Cap- 
tain Metcalf,  of  the  Eleanor,  an  American  snow,  were  nearly  cut  off 
by  the  turbulent  chiefs,  who  were  desirous  to  procure  the  guns  and 
ammunition  belonging  to  their  vessels,  to  aid  them  in  carrying  their 
purposes  of  conquest  into  effect. 


35 

DESTRUCTION  OF   "FAIR  AMERICAN" — CAPTURE  OF  DAVIS  AND 

YOUNG. 

The  son  of  the  latter,  a  youth  of  sixteen,  who  commanded  a  schooner, 
called  the  Fair  American,  which  accompanied  the  Eleanor  from  Can- 
ton, when  close  in  with  the  land  off  Mouna  Huararai,  was  becalmed; 
the  natives  thronged  on  board,  threw  young  Metcalf  overboard,  seized 
and  plundered  the  vessel,  and  murdered  all  the  crew,  excepting  the 
mate,  whose  name  was  Isaac  Davie.  He  resided  many  years  with 
Tamehameha,  who  very  severely  censured  the  chief  under  whose 
direction  this  outrage  had  been  committed. 

A  seaman  whose  name  is  Young,  belonging  to  the  Eleanor,  who 
was  on  shore  at  the  time,  was  prevented  from  gaining  his  vessel,  but 
was  kindly  treated  by  the  king,  and  is  still  living  at  Towaihae. 

VISIT  OF  VANCOUVER  TO  HAWAII. 

In  the  years  1792  and  1793,  Captain  Vancouver,  while  engaged  in 
a  voyage  of  discovery  in  the  North  Pacific,  spent  several  months  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands;  and  notwithstanding  the  melancholy  catas- 
trophe which  had  terminated  the  life  of  Captain  Cook,  whom  he  had 
accompanied,  and  the  treacherous  designs  of  the  warlike  and  ambi- 
tious chiefs  towards  several  of  his  predecessors,  he  met  with  the  most 
friendly  treatment  from  all  parties,  and  received  the  strongest  ex- 
pressions of  confidence  from  Tamehameha,  sovereign  of  the  whole 
group,  who  had  been  wounded  in  the  skirmish  that  followed  the  death 
of  their  discoverer,  but  who  had  ever  lamented  with  deepest  regret 
that  melancholy  event. 

CESSION   OF  ISLAND  TO  ENGLISH  BY  KAMEHAMEHA. 

He  alone  had  prevented  the  murderous  intentions  of  his  chieftains 
towards  former  vessels  from  being  carried  into  effect;  and  it  was  his 
uniform  endeavour  to  shew  every  mark  of  friendship  to  those  who 
visited  his  dominions.  His  attachment  to  the  English  induced  him, 
during  the  stay  of  Captain  Vancouver,  to  cede  the  island  of  Hawaii 
to  the  British  crown,  and  to  place  himself  and  his  dominions  under 
British  protection;  an  act  which  was  repeated  by  his  son,  the  late 
king,  on  his  accession  to  the  sovereignty  of  all  the  islands. 

The  natives  received  many  advantages  from  the  visit  of  Captain 
Vancouver;  a  breed  of  cattle,  and  a  variety  of  useful  seeds,  had  been 
given.  Generous  and  disinterested  in  his  whole  behaviour,  he  secured 
their  friendship  and  attachment,  and  many  still  retain  grateful  recol- 
lections of  his  visit. 

THE   SANDAL-WOOD   AND   WHALING  INDUSTRIES. 

After  his  departure,  the  islands  were  seldom  resorted  to,  except 
by  traders  from  the  United  States  of  America,  who,  having  discovered 


36 

among  them  the  sandal-wood,  conveyed  large  quantities  of  it  to  Can- 
ton, where  it  is  readily  purchased  by  the  Chinese,  manufactured  into 
incense,  and  burnt  in  their  idol  temples. 

Subsequently,  the  South  Sea  whalers  began  to  fish  in  the  North 
Pacific,  when  the  Sandwich  Islands  afforded  a  convenient  rendezvous 
for  refitting  and  procuring  refreshments  during  their  protracted  voy- 
ages, particularly  since  they  have  found  the  sperm  whale  on  the  coast 
of  Japan,  where  of  late  years  the  greater  parts  of  their  cargoes  have 
been  procured. 

ENGLISH   MISSION   IN   THE    SOUTH    SEAS. 

So  early  as  the  year  1796,  the  London  Missionary  Society  despatched 
the  ship  Duff  to  the  South  Sea  islands;  and  early  in  1797,  missionary 
settlements  were  established  in  the  Marquesan,  Friendly,  and  Society 
islands. 

The  missionary  left  at  the  Marquesas,  after  spending  about  a  year 
among  the  people,  returned. 

The  establishment  in  the  Friendly  Islands  was  relinquished,  though 
not  till  some  of  the  individuals  of  which  it  was  composed  had  fallen  a 
sacrifice  to  the  fury  of  the  islanders  in  their  intestine  wars. 

The  missionaries  in  the  Society  Islands  have  been  enabled  to 
maintain  their  ground,  though  exposed  to  many  dangers  and  priva- 
tions, and  some  ill  usage.  The  greater  part  of  them  were  at  one  time 
obliged  to  leave  the  islands,  in  consequence  of  violent  assaults,  and 
the  civil  wars  among  the  natives.  Several  of  those  who  left,  returned 
after  a  very  short  absence,  and  rejoined  their  companions  who  had 
remained,  and  the  labours  of  the  missionaries  were  continued  with 
patience  and  industry  for  fifteen  years,  from  the  time  of  their  first 
establishment,  without   any  apparent  effect. 

FINAL  SUCCESS  OF  MISSION. 

After  this  protracted  period  of  discouragement,  God  has  granted 
them  the  most  astonishing  success;  and  the  happy  change  in  the  out- 
ward circumstances  of  the  people,  and  the  great  moral  renovation 
which  the  reception  of  the  gospel  has  effected,  have  more  than  realized 
the  ardent  desires  of  the  missionaries  themselves,  and  the  most  san- 
guine anticipations  of  the  friends  of  the  mission. 

But  though  the  effects  of  the  London  Missionarj'  Society  were  con- 
tinued under  appearances  so  inauspicious,  with  a  degree  of  persever- 
ance which  has  since  been  most  amply  compensated,  various  Causes 
prevented  their  making  any  efforts  towards  communicating  the  knowl- 
edge of  Christ  to  the  Sandwich  islanders.  While  their  southern  neigh- 
bours were  enjoying  all  the  advantages  of  Christianity,  they  remained 
under  the  thick  darkness,  and  moral  wretchedness,  of  one  of  the  most 


37 

cruel  systems  of  idolatry  that  ever  enslaved  any  portion  of  the  human 
species. 

ESTABLISHMENT   OF   AMERICAN   MISSION  IN   HAWAII. 

The  attention  of  the  American  churches  was  at  length  directed  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  Their  sympathies  were  awakened,  and  resulted 
in  a  generous  effort  to  meliorate  the  wretchedness  of  their  inhabitants. 
A  society  already  existed,  under  the  name  of  the  American  Board 
of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  the  chief  seat  of  whose  opera- 
tions was  in  the  city  of  Boston,  Massachusetts,  though  including 
among  its  members  many  distinguished  individuals  in  different  states 
of  the  Union. 

In  the  autumn  of  1819,  a  select  and  efficient  band  of  missionaries 
was  appointed  by  this  society  to  establish  a  mission  in  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  They  landed  at  Kairua,  in  Hawaii,  on  the  4th  of  February, 
1820,  and  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  the  way  in  a  measure  prepared 
for  them,  by  one  of  those  remarkable  events  which  distinguish  the 
eras  in  the  history  of  nations,  whether  barbarous  or  civilized.  This 
was  no  other  than  the  abolition  of  the  national  idolatry,  which,  though 
it  was  closely  interwoven  with  all  the  domestic  and  civil  institutions 
of  every  class  of  the  inhabitants,  upheld  by  the  combined  influence  of 
a  numerous  body  of  priests,  the  arbitrary  power  of  warlike  chiefs, 
and  the  sanction  of  venerable  antiquity,  had  been  publicly  and 
authoritatively  prohibited  by  the  king  only  a  few  months  before  their 
arrival. 

THE  KING  AND  THE  MISSIONARIES. 

The  motives  which  influenced  the  monarch  of  Hawaii  in  this  deci- 
sive measure,  the  war  it  occasioned,  and  the  consequences  which  en- 
sued, are  detailed  in  the  following  narrative.  The  missionaries  could 
not  but  view  it  as  a  remarkable  interposition  of  divine  Providence  in 
their  favour,  and  a  happy  prelude  to  the  introduction  of  that  gospel 
which  they  had  conveyed  to  these  shores. 

They  had  naturally  expected  that  their  landing  would  be  opposed 
by  the  institutions  of  a  system,  which,  however  degrading  and 
oppressive  in  its  influence,  had  presented  more  than  human  claims 
to  the  support  of  its  adherents, — and  to  be  withstood  by  a  numerous 
and  influential  class  of  priests,  whose  craft  would  be  endangered  so 
soon  as  they  should  present  the  paramount  claims  of  the  true  God  to 
the  homage  of  the  heart  and  uniform  obedience  of  the  life. 

A   NATION  WITHOUT  A  RELIGION. 

Instead  of  this,  they  found  the  laws  of  the  Tabu  entirely  abrogated, 
and  priests  no  longer  existing  as  a  distinct  body,  but  merged  in  the 
other  classes  of  the  community. 


38 

The  whole  nation  was  without  any  religion,  and  in  this  respect  at 
least  prepared  to  receive  the  dispensation  of  the  gospel,  recommended 
as  it  was,  by  an  exemption  from  all  the  miseries  of  their  former  sys- 
tem, and  the  animating  prospects  of  life  and  immortality. 

Notwithstanding  this,  the  missionaries,  in  the  commencement  of 
their  efforts  to  instruct  the  natives,  met  with  some  opposition  from 
misinformed  and  jealous  individuals,  who  entertained  groundless  sus- 
picions as  to  the  ultimate  object  of  their  mission.  This,  however,  was 
overruled  by  Karaimoku,  Keopuolani,  and  other  leading  chiefs,  and 
the  king  willingly  allowed  them  to  remain  at  least  for  a  year. 

They  were  accompanied  by  several  native  youths,  whom  a  roving 
disposition  had  induced  to  visit  America,  where  they  had  been  edu- 
cated in  a  school  for  instructing  the  aborigines  of  various  heathen 
nations,  designated  the  Foreign  Mission  School,  and  who,  having  given 
pleasing  evidence  of  piety,  and  understanding  English,  were  qualified 
to  act  as  interpreters,  and  assist  the  missionaries  in  the  acquisition  of 
the  language. 

CREATING    A    WRITTEN    LANGUAGE. 

The  difficult  task  of  settling  the  orthography  of  an  unwritten  lan- 
guage, required  all  their  energies;  but  by  diligent  application,  and  the 
help  of  the  elementary  books  in  the  dialects  of  the  Society  Islands 
and  New  Zealand,  they  were  enabled,  in  the  beginning  of  1822,  to  put 
to  press  the  first  sheet  of  a  Hawaiian  spelling-book,  and  to  present  the 
natives  with  the  elements  of  the  vernacular  tongue  in  a  printed  form. 

Schools  were  established  on  a  scale  less  extended  than  the  mission- 
aries desired,  but  not  without  advantage,  as  many  of  their  early 
scholars  made  encouraging  proficiency,  and  have  since  become  useful 
teachers.  The  more  public  instructions  were  generally  well  received 
by  the  people. 

Tamehameha,  who  had  governed  the  islands  thirty  years,  and  whose 
decease  took  place  not  twelve  months  before  their  arrival,  had  in- 
variably rendered  the  most  prompt  and  acceptable  aid  to  those  English 
vessels  which  had  touched  at  the  islands.  In  return  for  the  friend- 
ship so  uniformly  manifested,  the  British  government  instructed  the 
governor  of  New  South  Wales  to  order  a  schooner  to  be  built  at 
Port  Jackson,  and  sent  as  a  present  to  the  king  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  In  the  month  of  February,  1822,  his  majesty's  colonial  cut- 
ter, Mermaid,  having  in  charge  the  vessel  designed  for  the  king  of 
Hawaii,  put  into  the  harbour  of  Huahine  for  refreshments.  The  cap- 
tain of  the  Mermaid  politely  offered  a  passage  either  to  the  deputation 
from  the  London  Missionary  Society,  then  at  Huahine,  or  any  of  the 
missionaries  who  might  wish  to  visit  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

"We  had  long  been  anxious  to  establish  a  mission  among  the  Mar- 
quesas;  and  as  he  intended  touching  at  those  islands  on  his  return, 


39 

It  appeared  a  very  favourable  opportunity  for  accomplishing  it,  and 
at  the  same  time  visiting  the  American  missionaries,  the  intelligence 
of  whose  embarkation  for  Hawaii  had  been  previously  received. 

MISSIONARY  DELEGATION  VISITS  HAWAII. 

Two  pious  natives,  members  of  the  church,  and  one  of  them  a  chief 
of  some  rank  in  the  islands,  were  selected  for  the  Marquesas;  and  I 
accompanied  the  deputation  on  their  visit  to  Hawaii,  for  the  purpose 
of  aiding  in  the  establishment  of  the  native  teachers  in  the  former 
islands,  observing  how  the  people  were  disposed  to  receive  instructors, 
and  obtaining  such  other  information  as  might  be  serviceable  in 
directing  our  future  endeavours  to  maintain  permanent  missionary 
stations   among  them. 

In  the  month  of  March  we  reached  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  re- 
ceived a  cordial  welcome,  not  only  from  the  American  missionaries, 
but  from  the  king  and  chiefs,  to  whom  the  generous  present  of  the 
British  government  was  peculiarly  acceptable. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival,  a  public  council  of  the  king  and  chiefs 
of  Hawaii  was  held  at  Oahu.  Auna  and  his  companion,  from  Huahine, 
were  invited  to  attend,  and  had  an  opportunity  of  answering  the  in- 
quiries of  the  king  and  chiefs  relative  to  the  events  which  had  trans- 
pired in  the  Society  Islands,  and  of  testifying  to  the  feelings  of 
friendship  and  esteem  entertained  by  Pomare,  and  the  rulers  of  those 
islands,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  latter;  who  were  convinced 
that  the  reports  which  had  been  circulated  among  them  respecting 
the  hostile  intentions  of  the  southern  islanders,  and  the  dangerous  in- 
fluence of  Christian  missions  there,  were  totally  groundless. 

ELLIS   REMAINS   IN  HAWAII. 

We  did  not  expect,  when  we  first  arrived,  to  spend  more  than  a  fort- 
night or  three  weeks  in  the  Sandwich  Islands;  but  circumstances  un- 
foreseen, and  entirely  beyond  our  control,  detained  us  four  months  in 
Oahu. 

In  two  months  I  was  enabled  to  converse  with  facility,  and  preach 
to  the  people  in  their  own  language,  which  I  soon  perceived  was  only 
a  dialect  of  that  spoken  by  the  natives  of  Tahiti,  and  the  neighbour- 
ing islands. 

Auna  and  his  companion  were  at  the  same  time  diligently  and 
acceptably  employed  in  teaching  some  chiefs  of  distinction  in  Hawaii, 
who  requested  that  he  would  relinquish  his  voyage  to  the  Marquesas, 
and  fix  his  residence  among  them;  to  which  he  cheerfully  consented. 

Several  of  the  principal  chiefs  also  expressed  a  wish  that  I  should 
associate  with  the  teachers  already  engaged  in  their  instruction.  The 
American  missionaries  at  the  same  time  affectionately  inviting  me  to 


40 

join  them,  and  the  measure  meeting  the  approbation  of  the  deputation, 
it  appeared  my  duty  to  comply  with  their  request. 

Early  in  February,  1S23,  I  returned  to  Oaliu  with  m}r  family,  ex- 
perienced a  kind  reception  from  the  king  and  chiefs,  and  was  privi- 
leged to  commence  my  missionary  pursuits  in  harmonious  cooperation 
with  my  predecessors,  the  American  missionaries,  who  were  diligently 
employed  in  their  benevolent  exertions  for  the  spiritual  well-being 
of  the  nation;  AVOIDING,  AS  THEY  HAVE  UNIFOEMLY  DONE 
EVER  SINCE,  ALL  INTERFERENCE  WITH  THE  CIVIL,  COM- 
MERCIAL, AND  POLITICAL  CONCERNS  OF  THE  PEOPLE,  AND 
ATTENDING-  SOLELY  TO  THEIR  INSTRUCTION  IN  USEFUL 
KNOWLEDGE  AND  RELIGIOUS  TRUTH. 

EXPLORING  EXPEDITION  TO  HAWAII. 

The  difficulties  attending  the  acquisition  of  the  language,  and  other 
circumstances,  had  hitherto  confined  the  labours  of  the  missionaries 
almost  entirely  to  the  islands  of  Oahu  and  Tauai;  but  in  April,  1823, 
a  reinforcement  arriving  from  America,  enabled  them  to  extend  their 
efforts,  particularly  towards  Maui  and  Hawaii. 

In  order  that  arrangements  for  the  establishment  and  permanent 
maintenance  of  missionary  stations  in  the  latter,  the  largest,  most 
important,  and  most  populous  island  of  the  group,  might  be  made 
with  all  the  advantages  of  local  knowledge,  it  was  agreed  that  three 
of  the  American  missionaries  and  myself  should  visit  and  explore 
that  interesting  island,  to  investigate  the  religious  and  moral  condi- 
tion of  the  people,  communicate  to  them  the  knowledge  of  Christ, 
unfold  the  benevolent  objects  of  the  mission,  inquire  whether  they 
were  willing  to  receive  Christian  teachers,  and  select  the  most  eligi- 
ble places  for  missionary  stations. 

These,  though  the  principal,  were  not  the  only  objects  that  occu- 
pied our  attention  during  the  tour.  We  availed  ourselves  of  the 
opportunities  it  afforded  to  make  observations  on  the  structure 
of  the  island,  its  geographical  character,  natural  scenery,  produc- 
tions, and  objects  of  curiosity;  and  to  become  more  fully  acquainted 
with  the  peculiar  features  of  the  system  of  idolatry,  the  traditions, 
manners,  and  customs  of  the  inhabitants, — a  detailed  account  of  which 
is  given  in  the  following  narrative. 

HAWAIIAN    ORTHOGRAPHY    EXPLAINED. 

Before  entering  upon  the  tour,  a  few  remarks  on  the  orthography 
of  the  Hawaiian  names  which  are  occasionally  introduced,  explain- 
ing the  reasons  for  its  adoption,  and  assisting  in  the  pronunciation  of 
native  words,  will  probably  be  acceptable  to  most  of  our  readers. 

The  visits  which  most  foreigners  have  paid  to  the  Sandwich  and 
other  islands  of  the   Pacific,  have  been  too  transient  to  allow  them, 


41 

however  well  qualified  they  may  have  been,  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  nice  distinction  of  vowel  sounds,  and  peculiar  structure,  of 
the  aboriginal  languages  of  the  islands;  and  those  individuals  whom 
purposes  of  commerce  have  induced  to  remain  a  longer  period  among 
them,  whatever  facility  they  may  have  acquired  in  speaking  it,  have 
not  attended  to  its  orthographical  construction,  but  have  adopted  that 
method  of  spelling  names  of  persons  and  places  which  happen  to  have 
been  used  by  those  of  their  predecessors,  with  whose  printed  accounts 
they  were  most  familiar. 

The  want  of  a  standard  orthography  cannot  be  better  illustrated, 
than  by  noticing  the  great  variety  of  methods  adopted  by  different 
voyagers  to  represent  the  same  word. 

SPELLING  OF  HAWAIIAN  NAMES. 

We  have  seen  the  name  of  Tamehameha,  the  late  king,  spelt  in 
various  publications  twelve  or  fourteen  different  ways;  and  the  same 
variety  has  also  prevailed  in  other  popular  names,  though  perhaps  not 
to  an  equal  extent.  The  above  word  is  a  reduplication  of  the  simple 
word  meha,  (lonely,  or  solitary,)  with  the  definite  article  Ta  pre- 
fixed, which  is  a  part  of  the  name;  though  rejected  in  Cook's  Voy- 
ages, where  he  is  called  Maihamaiha.  Captain  Vancouver  calls  him 
Tamaahmaah,  which  is  somewhat  nearer. 

This  disagreement  in  different  writers  arises,  in  the  first  place,  from 
the  deficiency  in  the  vowel  characters  as  used  in  the  English  lan- 
guage, for  expressing  the  native  vowel  sounds. 

The  English  language  has  but  one  sign,  or  letter,  for  the  vowel 
sound  in  the  first  syllable  of  father  and  fable,  or  the  words  tart  and 
tale;  but  in  Hawaiian  the  sense  of  these  sounds,  which  frequently 
occur  unconnected  with  any  other,  is  so  different,  that  a  distinct  char- 
acter is  essential. 

The  first  sound  is  often  a  distinct  word,  and  frequently  marks  the 
future  tense  of  the  verb,  while  the  second  sound  distinguishes  the 
past,  and  is  also  a  distinct  word.  These  two  sounds  often  occur  to- 
gether, forming  two  distinct  syllables,  as  in  the  interrogation  e-a? 
what?  and  the  word  he-a,  to  call. 

In  the  English  language,  two  letters,  called  double  vowels,  are  used 
to  lengthen  the  same  sound,  as  ee  in  thee,  or  to  express  one  totally 
different,  as  oo  in  pool;  but  in  Hawaiian  there  is  often  a  repetition  of 
the  vowel  sound,  without  any  intervening  consonant,  or  other  vowel 
sound,  as  in  a-a,  a  bag  or  pocket,  e-e,  to  embark,  i-i,  a  name  of  a 
bird,  o-o,  an  agricultural  instrument;  which  must  be  sounded  as  two 
distinct  syllables. 

Hence  when  the  ee  is  employed  to  express  a  lengthened  sound  of  e, 
as  in  Owhyhee,  and  oo  to  signify  the  sound  of  u  in  rule,  as  in  Kara- 


42 

kakooa,  which  is  generally  done  by  European  visitors;  it  is  not  possi- 
ble to  express  by  any  signs  those  native  words  in  which  the  double 
vowels  occur,  which  are  invariably  two  distinct  syllables. 

IGNORANCE    OP    CONSTRUCTION    OP    LANGUAGE. 

Another  cause  of  the  incorrectness  of  the  orthography  of  early 
voyagers  to  these  islands,  has  been  a  want  of  better  acquaintance 
with  the  structure  of  the  language,  which  would  have  prevented  their 
substituting  a  compound  for  a  single  word. 

This  is  the  case  in  the  words  Otaheiti,  Otaha,  and  Owhyhee,  which 
ought  to  be  Tahiti,  Tahaa,  and  Hawaii. 

The  O  is  no  part  of  these  words,  but  is  the  sign  of  the  case,  denot- 
ing it  to  be  the  nominative  answering  to  the  question  who  or  what, 
which  would  be   O   wai? 

The  sign  of  the  case  being  prefixed  to  the  interrogation,  the  answer 
uniformly  corresponds,  as, 

Nom.     O  wai  ia  aina? — What  that  land? 

Ans.     O  Hawaii: — Hawaii. 
Pos.       No  hea  oe? — Of  whence  you? 

Ans.     No  Hawaii: — Of  or  belonging  to  Hawaii. 
Obj.       Hoe  oe  i  hea? — Sailing  you  to  where? 

Ans.     I  Hawaii: — To  Hawaii. 

Mai  hea  mai  oe? — From  whence  you? 

Ans.     Mai  Hawaii  mai: — From  Hawaii. 

In  pronouncing  the  word  Ha-wai-i,  the  Ha  is  sounded  short  as  in 
Hah,  the  wai  as  wye,  and  the  final  i  as  e  in  me. 

COOK   AND   VANCOUVER'S   SPELLING. 

A.tooi  in  Cook's  voyages,  Atowai  in  Vancouver's,  and  Atoui  in  one 
of  his  contemporaries,  is  also  a  compound  of  two  words,  a  Tauai,  liter- 
ally, and  Tauai. 

The  meaning  of  the  word  tauai  is  to  light  upon,  or  to  dry  in  the 
sun;  and  the  name,  according  to  the  account  of  the  late  king,  was 
derived  from  the  long  droughts  which  sometimes  prevailed,  or  the 
large  pieces  of  timber  which  have  been  occasionally  washed  upon  its 
shores. 

Being  the  most  leeward  island  of  importance,  it  was  probably  the 
last  inquired  of,  or  the  last  name  repeated  by  the  people  to  the  first 
visitors.  For  should  the  natives  be  pointed  to  the  group,  and  asked 
the  names  of  the  different  islands,  beginning  with  that  farthest  to 
windward,  and  proceeding  west,  they  would  say,  O  Hawaii,  Maui, 
Eanai,  Morotai,  Oahu  a  (and)  Tauai:  the  copulative  conjunction  pre- 
ceding the  last  member  of  the  sentence,  would  be  placed  immediately 
before  Tauai;  and  hence,  in  all  probability,  it  has  been  attached  to 


43 

the  name  of  that  island,  which  has  usually  been  written,  after  Cook's 
orthography,  Atooi;  or  Atowai,  after  Vancouver. 

The  more  intelligent  among  the  natives,  particularly  the  chiefs,  fre- 
quently smile  at  the  manner  of  spelling  the  names  of  places  and  per- 
sons, in  published  accounts  of  the  islands,  which  they  occasionally 
see,  and  doubtless  wonder  how  we  can  employ  two  letters  of  the  same 
kind  to  express  two  distinct  sounds,  as  aa,  for  the  sound  of  a  in  mark, 
and  a  in  make;  or  oo  for  a  sound  so  distinct  as  u. 

PRONUNCIATION    OF    HAWAIIAN   NAMES. 

The  orthography  employed  in  the  native  names  which  occur  in  the 
succeeding  narrative,  is  in  accordance  with  the  power  or  sound  of  the 
letters  composing  the  Hawaiian  alphabet,  and  the  words  are  rep- 
resented as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  manner  in  which  they  are  pro- 
nounced by  the  natives. 

A  is  always  as  a  in  father,  or  shorter  as  a  in  the  first  syllable  of  aha, 
e  as  a  in  hate,  i  as  i  in  machine,  ee  in  thee,  o  as  o  in  note,  u  as  oo 
in  food,  or  short  as  in  bull,  and  the  diphthong  ai  as  i  in  wine  or  mine. 
The  consonants  are  sounded  as  in  English. 

The  native  words  may  be  correctly  pronounced  by  attending  to  the 
above  sounds  of  the  vowels. 

The  following  list  of  the  principal  names  will  likewise  assist  in  the 
proper  pronunciation  of  Hawaiian  words.  The  h  is  inserted  after 
the  a,  only  to  secure  that  vowel's  being  sounded  as  in  the  exclama- 
tion ah! 

PLACES. 

Ha-wai,  pronounced  as  Ha  wye  e 

O-a-hu    O-ah-hoo 

Tau-ai    Tow-i,   or  Tow-eye 

Mau-i Mow-e 

Kai-ru-a Ky-roo-ah 

Ke-a-ra-ke-ku-a Kay-a-ra-kay-koo-ah 

Wai-a-ke-a    Wye-ah-kay-ah 

Wai-pi-o Wye-pe-o 

Ki-rau-ea Ke-row-ay-ah 

Pu-ho-nu-a Poo-ho-noo-ah 

Mou-na-hu-a-ra-rai  .   . .  Mow-nah-hoo-ah-ra-rye 

Mou-na  Eo-a Mow-nah  Eo-ah 

Mou-na   Ke-a Mow-nah   Kay-ah 

Ka-a-va-ro-a Kah-ah-vah-ro-ah 


44 

PERSONS. 

Ta-me-ha-me-ha   Ta-me-hah-me-hah 

Bi-ho-ri-lio Ree-ho-ree-ho 

Ta-u-mu-a-ri-i Ta-oo-moo-ah-re-e 

Ka-a-hu-ma-nu Ka-ah-hoo-ma-noo 

Ke-o-pu-o-la-ni Kay-o-poo-o-lah-ne 

Ku-a-ki-ni Koo-ah-ke-ne 

Ka-rai-mo-ku Ka-rye-mo-koo 

Bo-ki Bo-ke 

Li-li-ha Le-le-hah 

Mau-ae Mow-aye 

Ma-ko-a Ma-ko-ah 

CHAP.  II. 

THE    TRIP    TO    HAWAII    BEGINS. 

Taumuarii,  the  friendly  king  of  Tauai,  having  generously  offered 
the  missionaries  chosen  to  make  the  tour  of  Hawaii,  (Owhyhee,)  a 
passage  in  one  of  his  vessels  bound  from  Oahu  to  Kairua;  Messrs. 
Thurston,  Bishop,  and  Goodrich,  repaired  on  board  in  the  afternoon 
of  June  24,  1823.  They  were  accompanied  by  Mr.  Harwood,  an  in- 
genious mechanic,  whom  curiosity,  and  a  desire  to  assist  them,  had 
induced  to  join  their  party.  The  indisposition  of  Mrs.  Ellis  prevented 
my  proceeding  in  the  same  vessel,  but  I  hoped  to  follow  in  a  few 
days. 

At  4  p.  m.  the  brig  was  under  weigh,  standing  to  the  S.  E.  Having 
clearing  the  bar,  and  the  reefs  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbour,  the 
trade-wind  blowing  fresh  from  the  N.  E.  they  were  soon  out  of  sight 
of  Honoruru.  They  passed  the  islands  of  Morokai,  Ranai,  and  the 
principal  part  of  Maui  (Mowee)  during  the  night,  and  at  daybreak 
on  the  25th  were  off  Tahaurawe,  a  small  island  on  the  south  side  of 
Maui. 

The  Haaheo  Hawaii,  (Pride  o  Hawaii,)  another  native  vessel,  for- 
merly the  Cleopatra's  barge,  soon  after  hove  in  sight;  she  did  not, 
however,  come  up  with  them,  but  tacked,  and  stood  for  Lahaina.  In 
the  evening,  the  wind,  usually  fresh  in  the  channel  between  Maui  and 
Hawaii,  blew  so  strong,  that  they  were  obliged  to  lay-to  for  about 
three  hours;  when  it  abated,  and  allowed  them  to  proceed. 

A  QUICK  TRIP  TO  KAILUA. 

On  the  26th,  at  4  p.  m.,  the  vessel  came  to  anchor  in  Kairua  bay. 
The  missionaries  soon  after  went  on  shore,  grateful  for  the  speedy 
and  comfortable  passage  with  which  they  had  been  favoured,  having 
been  only  forty-nine  hours  from  Oahu,   which  is  about   150  miles  to 


MAP   OF 

THE  LARGEST  OF  THE 

SANDWICH  ISLANDS: 

Improved,  from  Vancouver's  Survey. 


n 


r 


45 

the  leeward  of  Kairua.  They  were  heartily  welcomed  by  the  gov- 
ernor, Kuakini,  usually  called  by  the  foreigners,  John  Adams,  from 
his  having  adopted  the  name  of  a  former  president  of  the  United 
States  of  America.  They  took  tea  with  him;  and  after  expressing 
their  gratitude  to  God  in  the  native  language  with  the  governor  and 
his  family,  retired  to  rest  in  an  apartment  kindly  furnished  for  them 
in  his  own  house. 

The  next  morning  their  baggage  was  removed  from  the  vessel,  and 
deposited  in  a  small  comfortable  house,  formerly  belonging  to  Tameha- 
rneka,  but  which  the  governor  directed  them  to  occupy  so  long  as  they 
should  remain  at  Kairua.  He  also  politely  invited  them  to  his  table, 
during  their  stay;  in  consequence  of  which,  without  forgetting  their 
character,  they  sat  down  to  their  morning  repast. 

Their  breakfast  room  presented  a  singular  scene.  They  were  seated 
around  a  small  table  with  the  governor  and  one  or  two  of  his  friends, 
who,  in  addition  to  the  coffee,  fish,  vegetables,  &c,  with  which  it  was 
furnished,  had  a  large  wooden  bowl  of  poe,  a  sort  of  thin  paste  made 
of  baked  taro,  beat  up  and  diluted  with  water,  placed  by  the  side  of 
their  plates,  from  which  they  frequently  took  very  hearty  draughts. 

Two  favourite  lap-dogs  sat  on  the  same  sofa  with  the  governor,  one 
on  his  right  hand  and  the  other  on  his  left,  and  occasionally  received 
a  bit  from  his  hand,  or  the  fragments  on  the  plate  from  which  he 
had  eaten. 

A  number  of  his  punahele,  (favourite  chiefs,)  and  some  occasional 
visitors,  sat  in  circles  on  the  floor,  around  large  dishes  of  raw  fish, 
baked  hog,  or  dog,  or  goat,  from  which  each  helped  himself  without 
ceremony,  while  a  huge  calabash  of  poe  passed  rapidly  round  among 
them.  They  became  exceedingly  loquacious  and  cheerful  during  their 
meal;  and  several  who  had  been  silent  before,  now  laughed  loud,  and 
joined  with  spirit  in  the  mirth  of  their  companions. 

Neat  wooden  dishes  of  water  were  handed  to  the  governor  and  his 
friends,  both  before  and  after  eating,  in  which  they  washed  their 
hands. 

Uncivilized  nations  are  seldom  distinguished  by  habits  of  cleanli- 
ness; but  this  practice,  we  believe,  is  an  ancient  custom,  generally 
observed  by  the  chiefs,  and  all  the  higher  orders  of  the  people, 
throughout  the  islands. 

SCARCITY    OF    WATEB    AT    KAILUA. 

Kairua,  though  healthy  and  populous,  is  destitute  of  fresh  water, 
except  what  is  found  in  pools,  or  small  streams,  in  the  mountains,  four 
or  five  miles  from  the  shore.  An  article  so  essential  to  the  main- 
tenance of  a  missionary  station,  it  was  desirable  to  procure,  if  pos- 
sible, nearer  at  hand.     The  late  king  Tamohameha  used  frequently  to 


48 

beg  a  cask  of  water  from  the  captains  of  vessels  touching  at  Kairua; 
and  it  is  one  of  the  most  acceptable  presents  a  captain  going  to  this 
station  could  make,  either  to  the  chiefs  or  missionaries.  As  soon 
therefore  as  breakfast  was  ended,  the  party  walked  through  the  dis- 
trict in  a  south-east  direction,  to  examine  the  ground,  with  a  view 
to  discover  the  most  eligible  place  for  digging  a  well. 

The  whole  face  of  the  country  marked  decisively  its  volcanic  origin; 
and  in  the  course  of  their  excursion  they  entered  several  hollows  in 
the  lava,  formed  by  its  having  cooled  and  hardened  on  the  surface, 
while,  in  a  liquid  state  underneath,  it  had  continued  to  flow  towards 
the  sea.  leaving  a  crust  in  the  shape  of  a  tunnel,  or  arched  vault,  of 
varied  thickness  and  extent. 

THE  LANIAKEA   CAVE. 

Before  they  returned,  they  also  explored  a  celebrated  cavern  in  the 
vicinity,  called  Eaniakea.  After  entering  it  by  a  small  aperture,  they 
passed  on  in  a  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the  surface;  sometimes 
along  a  spacious  arched  way,  not  less  than  twenty-five  feet  high  and 
twenty  wide;  at  other  times,  by  a  passage  so  narrow,  that  they  could 
with  difficulty  press  through,  till  they  had  proceeded  about  1200  feet; 
here  their  progress  was  arrested  by  a  pool  of  water,  wide,  deep,  and 
as  salt  as  that  found  in  the  hollows  of  the  lava  within  a  few  yards  of 
the  sea.  This  latter  circumstance,  in  a  great  degree,  damped  their 
hopes  of  finding  fresh  water  by  digging  through  the  lava. 

More  than  thirty  natives,  most  of  them  carrying  torches,  accom- 
panied them  in  their  descent;  and  on  arriving  at  the  water,  simul- 
taneously plunged  in,  extending  their  torches  with  one  hand,  and 
swimming  about  with  the  other. 

The  partially  illuminated  heads  of  the  natives,  splashing  about  in 
this  subterranean  lake;  the  reflection  of  the  torch-light  on  its  agitated 
surface;  the  frowning  sides  and  lofty  arch  of  the  black  vault,  hung 
with  lava,  that  had  cooled  in  every  imaginable  shape;  the  deep  gloom 
of  the  cavern  beyond  the  water;  the  hollow  sound  of  their  footsteps; 
and  the  varied  reverberations  of  their  voices,  produced  a  singular 
effect;  and  it  would  have  required  but  little  aid  from  the  fancy,  to 
have  imagined  a  resemblance  between  this  scene  and  the  fabled 
Stygian  lake  of  the  poets. 

The  mouth  of  the  cave  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  sea,  and  the 
perpendicular  depth  to  the  water  probably  not  less  than  fifty  or  sixty 
feet.  The  pool  is  occasionally  visited  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose 
of  bathing,  as  its  water  is  cool  and  refreshing.  From  its  ebbing  and 
flowing  with  the  tide,  it  has  probably  a  direct  communication  with 
the  sea. 


47 


HUALALAI   IN    ERUPTION. 


In  the  afternoon,  Messrs.  Thurston  and  Bishop  walked  out  in  a 
N.W.  direction,  till  they  reached  the  point  that  forms  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  bay,  on  the  eastern  side  of  which  Kairua  is  situated. 
It  runs  three  or  four  miles  into  the  sea;  is  composed  entirely  of  lava; 
and  was  formed  by  an  eruption  from  one  of  the  large  craters  on  the 
top  of  Mouna  Huararai,  (Mount  Huararai,)  which,  about  twenty-three 
years  ago,  inundated  several  villages,  destroyed  a  number  of  planta- 
tions and  extensive  fish-ponds,  filled  up  a  deep  bay  twenty  miles  in 
length,  and  formed  the  present  coast. 

An  Englishman,  who  has  resided  thirty-eight  years  in  the  islands, 
and  who  witnessed  the  above  eruption,  has  frequently  told  us  he  was 
astonished  at  the  irresistible  impetuosity  of  the  torrent. 

Stone  walls,  trees,  and  houses,  all  gave  way  before  it;  even  large 
masses  or  rocks  of  hard  ancient  lava,  when  surrounded  by  the  fiery 
stream,  soon  split  into  small  fragments,  and  falling  into  the  burn- 
ing mass,  appeared  to  melt  again,  as  borne  by  it  down  the  mountain's 
side. 

Numerous  offerings  were  presented,  and  many  hogs  thrown  alive 
into  the  stream,  to  appease  the  anger  of  the  gods,  by  whom  they 
supposed  it  was  directed,  and  to  stay  its  devastating  course. 

All  seemed  unavailing,  until  one  day  the  king  Tamehameha  went, 
attended  by  a  large  retinue  of  chiefs  and  priests,  and,  as  the  most 
valuable  offering  he  could  make,  cut  off  part  of  his  own  hair,  which 
was  always  considered  sacred,  and  threw  it  into  the  torrent. 

A  day  or  two  after,  the  lava  ceased  to  flow.  The  gods,  it  was 
thought,  were  satisfied;  and  the  king  acquired  no  small  degree  of  in- 
fluence over  the  minds  of  the  people,  who,  from  this  circumstance, 
attributed  their  escape  from  threatened  destruction  to  his  supposed 
interest  with  the  deities  of  the  volcanoes. 

In  several  places  they  observed  that  the  sea  rushes  with  violence 
twenty  or  thirty  yards  along  the  cavities  beneath  the  lava,  and  then, 
forcing  its  waters  through  the  apertures  in  the  surface,  forms  a  num- 
ber of  beautiful  jets  d  'eau,  which  falling  again  on  the  rocks,  roll 
rapidly  back  to  the  ocean. 

SUBURBS    OF   KAILUA   DESCRIBED. 

They  enjoyed  a  fine  view  of  the  town  and  adjacent  country.  The 
houses,  which  are  neat,  are  generally  built  on  the  sea-shore,  shaded 
with   cocoa-nut   and   kou  trees,   which   greatly   enliven   the   scene. 

The  environs  were  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent;  small  gar- 
dens were  seen  among  the  barren  rocks  on  which  the  houses  are  built, 
wherever  soil  could  be  found  sufficient  to  nourish  the  sweet  potato, 
the  water  melon,  or  even  a  few  plants  of  tobacco,  and  in  many  places 


48 

these  seemed  to  be  growing  literally  in  the  fragments  of  lava,  col- 
lected in  small  heaps  around  their  roots. 

The  next  morning,  Messrs.  Thurston,  Goodrich,  and  Harwood,  walked 
towards  the  mountains,  to  visit  the  high  and  cultivated  parts  of  the 
district.  After  travelling  over  the  lava  lor  about  a  mile,  the  hollows 
in  the  rocks  began  to  be  filled  with  a  light  brown  soil;  and  about  half 
a  mile  further,  the  surface  was  entirely  covered  with  a  rich  mould, 
formed  by  decayed  vegetable  matter  and  decomposed  lava. 

Here  they  enjoyed  the  agreeable  shade  of  bread-fruit  and  ohia 
trees;  the  latter  is  a  deciduous  plant,  a  variety  of  eugenia,  resembling 
the  eugenia  malaccensis,  bearing  a  beautifully  red  pulpy  fruit,  of  the 
size  and  consistence  of  an  apple,  juicy,  but  rather  insipid  to  the  taste. 
The  trees  are  elegant  in  form,  and  grow  to  the  height  of  twenty  or 
thirty  feet;  the  leaf  is  oblong  and  pointed,  and  the  flowers  are  at- 
tached to  the  branches  by  a  short  stem.  The  fruit  is  abundant,  and 
is  generally  ripe,  either  on  different  places  in  the  same  island,  or  on 
different  islands,  during  all  the  summer  months. 

INLAND   CULTIVATION. 

The  path  now  lay  through  a  beautiful  part  of  the  country,  quite  a 
garden  compared  with  that  through  which  they  had  passed  on  first 
leaving  the  town.  It  was  generally  divided  into  small  fields,  about 
fifteen  rods  square,  fenced  with  low  stone  walls,  built  with  fragments 
of  lava  gathered  from  the  surface  of  the  enclosures.  These  fields 
were  planted  writh  bananas,  sweet  potatoes,  mountain  taro,  paper  mul- 
berry plants,  melons,  and  sugar-cane,  which  flourished  luxuriantly  in 
every  direction. 

Having  travelled  about  three  or  four  miles  through  this  delightful 
region,  and  passed  several  valuable  pools  of  fresh  water,  they  arrived 
at  the  thick  woods,  which  extend  several  miles  up  the  sides  of  the 
lofty  mountain  that  rises  immediately  behind  Kairua. 

Among  the  various  plants  and  trees  that  now  presented  themselves, 
they  were  much  pleased  with  a  species  of  tree  ferns,  whose  stipes  were 
about  five  feet  long,  and  the  stem  about  fourteen  feet  high,  and  one 
foot  in  diameter. 

A  smart  shower  of  rain  (a  frequent  occurrence  in  the  mountains) 
arrested  their  further  progress,  and  obliged  them  to  return  to  their 
lodgings,  where  they  arrived  about  five  in  the  afternoon,  gratified, 
though  fatigued,  by  their  excursion. 

Mr.  Bishop  called  on  Thomas  Hopu,  the  native  teacher,  who  has 
for  some  time  resided  at  Kairua,  and  was  pleased  to  find  him  patient 
under  the  inconveniences  to  which  his  situation  necessarily  subjects 
him,  and  anxious  to  promote  the  best  interests  of  his  countrymen. 

29th.     The  Sabbath  morning  dawned  upon  the  missionaries  at  Kai- 


49 

rua  under  circumstances  unusually  animating,  and  they  prepared  to 
spend  this  holy  day  in  extending,  as  widely  as  possible,  their  labours 
among  the  benighted  people  around  them. 

Mr.  Thurston  preached  in  the  native  language  twice  at  the  gov- 
ernor's house,  to  attentive  audiences.  Mr.  Bishop  and  Thomas  Hopu 
proceeded  early  in  the  morning  to  Kaavaroa,  a  village  about  fourteen 
miles  distant,  on  the  north  side  of  Kearake  'kua,  (Karakakooa,)  where 
they  arrived  at  11  a.  m. 

KAMAKAU,    A   BENEFICENT    CHIEF. 

Kamakau,  chief  of  the  place,  received  them  with  many  expressions 
of  gladness,  led  them  to  his  house,  and  provided  some  refreshments; 
after  which,  they  walked  together  to  a  ranai,  (house  of  cocoa-nut 
leaves.)  which  he  had  some  time  ago  erected  for  the  public  worship  of 
Jehovah.  Here  they  found  about  a  hundred  of  his  people  assembled, 
and  waiting  their  arrival. 

Mr.  Bishop,  with  the  aid  of  Thomas,  preached  to  them  from 
John  iii:16,  and  endeavoured  in  the  most  familiar  manner  to  set  be- 
fore them  the  great  love  of  God  in  sending  his  Son  to  die  for  sinners, 
and  the  necessity  of  forsaking  sin,  and  believing  on  him,  in  order 
to  eternal  life. 

Towards  the  latter  part  of  the  discourse,  the  preacher  was  inter- 
rupted by  Kamakau,  who,  anxious  that  his  people  might  receive  the 
greatest  possible  benefit  by  the  word  spoken,  began  earnestly  to  ex- 
hort them  to  listen  and  regard,  telling  them,  their  salvation  depended 
on  their  attention  to  the  truths  which  they  heard.  After  the  service 
was  concluded,  he  again  addressed  them,  affectionately  recommending 
them  to  consider  these  things. 

Kamakau  wished  them  to  meet  with  the  people  again,  but  as  the 
day  was  far  spent,  they  thought  it  best  to  return.  He  then  told  them, 
that  after  their  departure  he  should  assemble  his  people,  and  repeat 
to  them  what  they  had  heard.  He  asked  many  questions  on  religious 
subjects,  several  respecting  the  heavenly  state;  and  appeared  in- 
terested in  the  answers  that  were  given;  especially  when  informed  that 
heaven  was  a  holy  place,  into  which  nothing  sinful  could  enter. 

A   DISCARDED   IDOL. 

As  they  went  from  his  house  to  the  beach,  they  passed  by  a  large' 
idol,  that  Kamakau  had  formerly  worshipped,  lying  prostrate  and 
mutilated  on  the  rocks,  and  washed  by  the  waves  of  the  sea  as  they 
rolled  on  the  shore.  It  was  a  huge  log  of  wood,  rudely  carved,  present- 
ing a  hideous  form,  well  adapted  to  infuse  terror  into  an  ignorant 
and    superstitious   mind. 

On  his  being  asked  why  he  had  worshipped  that  log  of  wood?  he 
answered, — because   he  was  afraid  he   would  destroy  his   cocoa-nuts. 


50 

But  were  you  not  afraid  to  destroy  it?  "No,  I  found  he  did  me 
neither  good  nor  harm.  I  thought  he  was  no  god,  and  threw  him 
away."  Bidding  him  farewell,  they  stepped  into  their  canoe,  and 
returned  to  Kairua,  where  they  arrived  in  the  evening,  encouraged 
by  the  incidents  of  the  day. 

Kamakau  is  a  chief  of  considerable  rank  and  influence  in  Hawaii, 
though  not  immediately  connected  with  any  of  the  reigning  family. 
He  is  cousin  to  Naihe,  the  friend  and  companion  of  Tamehameha,  and 
the  principal  national  orator  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  His  person, 
like  that  of  the  chiefs  in  general,  is  noble  and  engaging.  He  is  about 
six  feet,  high,  stout,  well-proportioned,  and  more  intelligent  and  en- 
terprising than  the  people  around  him.  For  some  time  past  he  has 
established  family  worship  in  his  house,  and  the  observance  of  the 
Sabbath  throughout  his  district;  having  erected  a  place  for  the  pub- 
lic worship  of  the  true  God,  in  which,  every  Lord's  day,  he  assembles 
his  people  for  the  purpose  of  exhortation  and  prayer,  which  he  con- 
ducts himself. 

He  is  able  to  read,  writes  an  easy  and  legible  hand,  has  a  general 
knowledge  of  the  first  principles  of  Christianity,  and,  what  is  infi- 
nitely better,  appears  to  feel  their  power  on  his  heart,  and  evince 
their  purity  in  his  general  conduct.  His  attainments  are  truly  sur- 
prising, manifesting  a  degree  of  industry  and  perseverance  rarely  dis- 
played under  similar  circumstances. 

His  sources  of  information  have  been  very  limited.  An  occasional 
residence  of  a  few  weeks  at  Honoruru,  one  or  two  visits  of  the  mis- 
sionaries and  of  some  of  the  native  teachers  to  his  house,  and  letters 
from  Naihe,  are  the  chief  advantages  he  has  enjoyed. 

He  appears,  indeed,  a  modern  Cornelius,  and  is  a  striking  manifesta- 
tion of  the  sovereignty  of  that  grace  of  which  we  trust  he  has  been 
made  a  partaker;  and  we  rejoice  in  the  pleasing  hope  that  He  who  has 
"begun  a  good  work,  will  perform  it  until  the  day  of  Christ." 

INCIDENTS    OF    LIFE    AT    KAILUA. 

In  the  forenoon  of  the  first  of  July,  two  posts  of  observation  were 
fixed,  and  a  base  line  of  200  feet  was  measured,  in  order  to  ascertain 
the  height  of  Mouna  Huararai;  but  the  summit  being  covered  with 
clouds,  they  were  obliged  to  defer  their  observation. 

In  the  afternoon  they  walked  through  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  town  to 
select  a  spot  in  which  to  dig  for  fresh  water.  After  an  accurate 
investigation  of  the  places  adjacent,  in  which  they  thought  it  might  be 
found,  they  chose  a  valley,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  residence  of 
the  governor,  and  near  the  entrance  of  Eaniakea,  as  the  spot  where 
they  were  most  likely  to  meet  with  success. 

The  4th  of  July  being  the  anniversary  of  the  American  independ- 
ence, guns  were  fired  at  the  fort,  the  colours  hoisted,  and  a  hospitable 


51 

entertainment  given  at  the  governor's  table.  The  missionaries  em- 
ployed the  greater  part  of  the  day  at  the  well,  which  early  in  the 
morning  they  had  commenced. 

In  the  evening,  while  at  tea,  considerable  attention  was  attracted  by 
a  slender  man,  with  a  downcast  look,  in  conversation  with  the  gov- 
ernor. 

It  afterwards  appeared,  that  this  was  a  stranger,  from  Maui,  who 
wished  to  be  thought  a  prophet,  affirming  that  he  was  inspired  by  a 
shark,  that  enabled  him  to  tell  future  events.  The  governor  said, 
many  of  the  people  believed  in  him,  and  from  them  he  obtained  a 
living. 

The  excavations  of  the  well  proceeded  but  slowly  during  the  next 
day.  Hard  and  closely  imbedded  lava  rendered  the  work  difficult. 
But  as  the  governor  promises  assistance,  they  are  encouraged  to  pro- 
ceed. 

RELIGIOUS    INSTRUCTION    IMPARTED. 

The  next  day  being  the  Sabbath,  Mr.  Bishop  preached  twice  at  the 
governor's  house,  Thomas  Hopu  acting  as  interpreter.  The  congre- 
gation consisted  principally  of  Kuakini's  attendants  and  domestics, 
the  greater  part  of  the  population  conceiving  themselves  under  no 
obligation  to  hear  preaching,  as  they  do  not  know  how  to  read;  pre- 
tending, that  ignorance  exempts  them  from  all  obligation  to  attend 
religious  exercises. 

Leaving  Kairua  early,  in  a  canoe  with  four  men,  provided  by  the 
governor,  Messrs.  Thurston  and  Goodrich  reached  Kaavaroa  about 
nine  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Kamakau  was  waiting  for  them,  and 
seemed  to  rejoice  at  their  arrival.  He  led  them  to  his  house,  and 
provided  them  with  a  frugal  breakfast,  after  which  they  repaired  in 
company  to  the  ranai  for  public  worship.  On  reaching  it,  they  found 
about  one  hundred  of  the  people  already  there.  Before  the  service 
commenced,  the  chief  arose,  directed  them  to  remain  quiet,  and  pay 
the  greatest  attention  to  the  word  of  life,  which  they  were  about  to 
hear. 

Shortly  after  the  conclusion  of  the  service,  the  missionaries  passed 
over  Kearake'kua  bay,  in  a  canoe,  landed  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
walked  along  the  shore  about  a  mile,  to  Karama.  Here,  in  a  large 
house,  they  collected  about  three  hundred  people;  to  whom  Mr.  Thurs- 
ton preached,  and  was  pleased  with  the  interest  they  manifested. 
Some  who  stood  near  the  speaker,  repeated  the  whole  discourse,  sen- 
tence by  sentence,  in  a  voice  too  low  to  create  disturbance,  yet  loud 
enough  to  be  distinctly  heard. 

There  were  seven  or  eight  American  and  English  seamen  present, 
who  requested  that  they  might  be  addressed  in  their  own  language. 
Mr.  Goodrich  accordingly  preached  to  them  from  Rev.  iii.  120. 


52 

REMINISCENCES   OF  CAPT.   COOK. 

Returning  from  Karama  to  the  southern  side  of  Kearake'kua  bay, 
w  here  they  had  left  their  canoe,  they  passed  the  ruins  of  an  old  heiau, 
the  morai  mentioned  in  Captain  Cook's  voyage,  where  the  obser- 
vatory was  erected. 

The  remaining  walls  were  one  hundred  feet  long  and  fifteen  high, 
and  the  space  within  was  strewed  with  animal  and  human  bones,  the 
relics  of  the  sacrifices  once  offered  there;  a  scene  truly  affecting  to 
a  Christian  mind. 

Leaving  this  melancholy  spot,  they  returned  in  their  canoe  to  Kaava- 
roa:  and  when  the  people  had  assembled  in  the  ranai,  Mr.  Thurston 
preached  to  them  from  Psalm  cxviii.  24.  This  is  the  day  the  Lord 
hath  made:  we  will  rejoice  and  be  glad  in  it. 

About  sun-set,  Mr.  Goodrich  ascended  a  neighbouring  height,  and 
visited  the  spot  where  the  body  of  the  unfortunate  Captain  Cook  was 
cut  to  pieces,  and  the  flesh,  after  being  separated  from  the  bones, 
was  burnt.  It  is  a  small  enclosure,  about  fifteen  feet  square,  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  five  feet  high;  within  is  a  kind  of  hearth,  raised 
about  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground,  and  encircled  by  a  curb  of 
rude  stones.  Here  the  fire  was  kindled  on  the  above  occasion;  and 
the  place  is  still  strewed  with  charcoal.  The  natives  mention  the  in- 
terment of  another  foreigner  on  this  spot;  but  could  not  tell  to  what 
country  he  belonged,  or  the  name  of  the  vessel  in  which  he  waa 
brought. 

MISSION   ASSISTED   BY   KAMAKAU. 

Kamakau  and  his  people  had  interested  his  visitors  so  much,  that 
they  determined  to  spend  the  night  at  his  house.  After  supper,  the 
members  of  the  family,  with  the  domestics  and  one  or  two  strangers, 
met  for  evening  worship:  a  hymn  was  sung  in  the  native  language, 
and  Kamakau  himself  engaged  in  prayer  with  great  fervour  and 
propriety.  He  prayed  particularly  for  the  king,  chiefs,  and  people, 
of  Hawaii,  and  the  neighbouring  islands;  and  for  the  missionaries, 
who  had  brought  the  good  word  of  salvation  to  them. 

The  brethren  were  surprised  to  hear  him  use  so  much  evangelical 
language  in  prayer.  During  the  conversation  of  the  evening,  he  ex- 
pressed a  desire,  which  has  since  been  gratified,  that  a  missionary 
might  reside  in  his  neighbourhood,  that  he  and  his  people  might  be 
instructed  in  the  word  of  God;  might  learn  to  read  and  write,  and 
become  acquainted  with  what  the  missionaries  were  teachings  at  the 
stations  where  they  dwelt.  He  is  about  fifty  years  of  age,  and  re- 
gretted exceedingly,  as  many  others  have  also  done,  that  he  was  so  far 
advanced  in  life  before  the  missionaries  arrived  at  the  islands. 

The  Sabbath  passed  away  pleasantly,  and,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  pro- 
fitably, both  to  the  interesting  inhabitants  of  the   place,   and  their 


53 

guests;  and  the  latter  retired  to  rest,  animated  and  encouraged  by 
what  they  had  that  day  witnessed.  Early  next  morning  they  set  out 
for  Kairua,  where  they  arrived  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  forenoon. 

Unable  to  proceed  with  the  well  for  want  of  proper  instruments 
with  which  to  drill  the  rocks,  the  greater  part  of  this  day  was  spent 
in  ascertaining  the  population  of  Kairua. 

Numbering  the  houses  for  one  mile  along  the  coast,  they  found  them, 
to  be  529;  and  allowing  an  average  of  five  persons  to  each  house,  the 
inhabitants  in  Kairua  will  amount  to  2645  persons.  This  certainly 
does  not  exceed  the  actual  population,  as  few  of  the  houses  are  small, 
and  many  of  them  large,  containing  two  or  three  families  each. 

The  varied  and  strongly  marked  volcanic  surface  of  the  higher 
parts  of  the  mountain  called  Mouna  Huararai,  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  Kairua;  the  traditional  accounts  given  by  the  natives  of 
the  eruptions,  which,  from  craters  on  its  summit,  had  in  different  ages 
deluged  the  low  land  along  the  coast;  the  thick  woods  that  skirt  its 
base,  and  the  numerous  feathered  tribes  inhabiting  them,  rendered  it 
an  interesting  object,  and  induced  the  travellers  to  commence  its 
ascent. 

About  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  9th,  they  left  Kairua, 
accompanied  by  three  men,  whom  they  had  engaged  to  conduct  them 
to  the  summit.  Having  travelled  about  twelve  miles  in  a  northerly 
direction,  they  arrived  at  the  last  house  on  the  western  side  of  the 
mountain.  Here  their  guides  wished  to  remain  for  the  night;  and  on 
being  urged  to  proceed,  as  it  was  not  more  than  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  declared  they  did  not  know  the  way,  and  had  never  been 
beyond  the  spot  where  they  then  were.  Notwithstanding  this  dis- 
appointment, it  was  determined  to  proceed.  Leaving  the  path,  the 
party  began  to  ascend  in  a  S.E.  direction,  and  travelled  about  six 
miles,  over  a  rough  and  difficult  road,  sometimes  across  streams  of 
hard  lava,  full  of  fissures  and  chasms,  at  other  times  through  thick 
brushwood,  or  high  ferns,  so  closely  interwoven  as  almost  to  arrest 
their  progress. 

CAMPING   ON   IIUALALAI. 

Arriving  at  a  convenient  place,  and  finding  themselves  fatigued, 
drenched  also  with  the  frequent  showers,  and  the  wet  grass  through 
which  they  had  walked,  they  proposed  to  pitch  their  tent  for  the 
night.  A  temporary  hut  was  erected  with  branches  of  the  neighbour- 
ing trees,  and  covered  with  the  leaves  of  the  tall  ferns  that  grew 
around  them.  At  one  end  of  it  they  lighted  a  large  fire,  and,  after 
the  rains  had  abated,  dried  their  clothes,  partook  of  the  refreshments 
they  had  brought  with  them,  and,  having  commended  themselves  to 
the  kind  protection  of  their  heavenly  Guardian,  spread  fern  leaves 


54 

and  grass  upon  the  lava,  and  lay  down  to  repose.  The  thermometer, 
which  is  usually  about  84°  on  the  shore,  stood  at  60°  in  the  hut 
\\ln> re  they  slept. 

The  singing  of  the  birds  in  the  surrounding  woods  ushering  in  the 
early  dawn,  and  the  cool  temperature  of  the  pure  mountain  air,  ex- 
cited a  variety  of  pleasing  sensations  in  the  minds  of  all  the  party, 
when  they  awoke  in  the  morning,  after  a  comfortable  night's  rest. 
The  thermometer,  when  placed  outside  of  the  hut,  stood  at  46°. 

Having  united  in  their  morning  sacrifice  of  thanksgiving  to  God, 
and  taken  a  light  breakfast,  they  resumed  their  laborious  journey. 
The  road,  lying  through  thick  underwood  and  fern,  was  wet  and 
fatiguing  for  about  two  miles,  when  they  arrived  at  an  ancient  stream 
of  lava,  about  twenty  rods  wide,  running  in  a  direction  nearly  west. 
Ascending  the  hardened  surface  of  this  stream  of  lava,  over  deep 
chasms,  or  large  volcanic  stones  imbedded  in  it,  for  a  distance  of 
three  or  four  miles,  they  reached  the  top  of  one  of  the  ridges  on  the 
western  side  of  the  mountain. 

BERRIES    AND    CRATERS    ON    HUALALAI. 

As  they  travelled  along,  they  met  with  tufts  of  strawberries,  and 
clusters  of  raspberry  bushes,  loaded  with  fruit,  which,  as  they  were 
both  hungry  and  thirsty,  were  very  acceptable.  The  strawberries  had 
rather  an  insipid  taste;  the  raspberries  were  white  and  large,  fre- 
quently an  inch  in  diameter,  but  not  so  sweet  or  well-flavoured  as 
those  cultivated  in  Europe  and  America. 

Between  nine  and  ten  in  the  forenoon  they  arrived  at  a  large  ex- 
tinguished crater,  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  apparently  400 
feet  deep,  probably  the  same  that  was  visited  by  some  of  Vancouver's 
people,  in  1792.  The  sides  sloped  regularly,  and  at  the  bottom  was  a 
small  mound,  with  an  aperture  in  its  centre.  By  the  side  of  this  large 
crater,  divided  from  it  by  a  narrow  ridge  of  volcanic  rocks,  was 
another,  fifty-six  feet  in  circumference,  from  which  volumes  of  sul- 
phureous smoke  and  vapour  continually  ascended.  No  bottom  could 
be  seen;  and  on  throwing  stones  into  it,  they  were  heard  to  strike 
against  its  sides  for  eight  seconds,  but  not  to  reach  the  bottom.  There 
were  two  other  apertures  near  this,  nine  feet  in  diameter,  and  appar- 
ently about  200  feet  deep. 

As  the  party  walked  along  the  giddy  verge  of  the  large  crater,  they 
could  distinguish  the  course  of  two  principal  streams,  that  had  issued 
from  it  in  the  great  eruption,  about  the  year  1800.  One  had  taken  a 
direction  nearly  north-east;  the  other  had  flowed  to  the  north-west,  in 
broad  irresistible  torrents,  for  a  distance  of  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 
to  the  sea,  where,  driving  back  the  waters,  it  had  extended  the  boun- 
daries of  the  island.     They  attempted  to  descend  this  crater,  but  the 


55 

steepness  of  its  sides  prevented  their  examining  it  so  fully  as  they 
desired. 

After  spending  some  time  there,  they  walked  along  the  ridge  be- 
tween three  and  four  miles,  and  examined  sixteen  different  craters, 
similar  in  construction  to  the  first  they  had  met  with,  though  generally 
of  smaller  dimensions. 

The  whole  ridge,  along  which  they  walked,  appeared  little  else  than 
a  continued  line  of  craters,  which,  in  different  ages,  had  deluged  the 
valleys  below  with  floods  of  lava,  or  showers  of  burning  cinders. 
Some  of  these  craters  appeared  to  have  reposed  for  ages,  as  trees  of 
considerable  size  were  growing  on  their  sides,  and  many  of  them  were 
covered  with  earth,  and  clothed  with  verdure. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  craters  they  found  a  number  of  small  bushes, 
bearing  red  berries  in  crowded  clusters,  which,  in  size  and  shape, 
much  resembled  whortleberries;  though  insipid,  they  were  juicy,  and 
supplied  the  place  of  fresh  water,  a  comfort  they  had  been  destitute 
of  since  the  preceding  evening. 

RETURN  TRIP  FROM  HUALALAI. 

They  continued  ascending  till  three  p.  m.  when,  having  suffered 
much  from  thirst,  and  finding  they  should  not  be  able  to  reach  the 
highest  peak  before  dark,  the  sky  also  being  overcast,  and  the  rain 
beginning  to  fall,  they  judged  it  best  to  return  to  Kairua,  without 
having  reached  the  summit  of  Mouna  Huararai;  particularly  as  they 
were  somewhat  scattered,  and  found  difficulty  in  pursuing  the  most 
direct  way,  on  account  of  the  thick  fog  which  surrounded  the 
mountain. 

On  their  return  they  found  the  aid  of  their  pocket  compass  neces- 
sary to  enable  them  to  regain  the  path  by  which  they  had  ascended 
in  the  morning. 

After  travelling  some  time,  they  beheld  with  gladness  the  sun  break- 
ing through  the  fog  in  which  they  had  been  so  long  enveloped,  and, 
looking  over  the  clouds  that  rolled  at  their  feet,  saw  him  gradually 
sink  behind  the  western  wave  of  the  wide  extended  ocean. 

The  appearance  of  the  sky,  at  the  setting  of  the  sun,  in  a  tropical 
climate,  is  usually  beautiful  and  splendid;  it  was  so  this  evening;  and 
from  their  great  elevation,  the  party  viewed  with  delight  the  mag- 
nificent yet  transient  glories  of  the  closing  day. 

They  travelled  about  three  miles  further,  when,  being  wet  with  the 
fog,  and  weary  with  travelling,  they  erected  a  hut  on  the  lava,  and 
encamped  for  the  night.  They  succeeded  in  making  a  good  fire,  dried 
their  clothes,  and  then  sat  down  to  partake  of  the  little  refreshment 
that  was  left.  It  consisted  of  a  small  quantity  of  hard  taro  paste, 
called  by  the  natives  ai  paa.     A  little  water  would  have  been  agree- 


56 

able,  but  of  this  they  were  destitute.  Having  gathered  some  fern 
leaves,  they  strewed  them  on  the  lava,  and  laid  down  to  repose. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  the  party  still  felt  unwilling  to  return 
without  reaching  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  hesitated  before  they 
began  again  to  descend;  but  having  been  a  day  and  two  nights  with- 
out water,  and  seeing  no  prospect  of  procuring  any  there,  they  were 
obliged  to  direct  their  steps  towards  Kairua. 

They  walked  several  miles  along  the  rough  stream  of  lava  by 
which  they  had  ascended,  till  they  arrived  at  the  woody  part  of  the 
mountain.  Two  of  them,  in  searching  for  a  more  direct  road  to 
Kairua,  discovered  an  excellent  spring  of  water.  They  soon  commu- 
nicated the  agreeable  intelligence  to  their  companions,  who  hastened 
to  the  spot,  and,  with  copious  draughts,  quenched  their  thirst.  Hav- 
ing filled  their  canteens,  they,  with  renewed  strength  and  grateful 
hearts,  kept  on  their  way  to  the  town. 

Owing  to  the  roughness  of  the  paths,  and  the  circuitous  route  by 
which  they  travelled,  they  did  not  arrive  at  Kairua  until  after  sun- 
set, much  fatigued,  and  almost  barefoot,  their  shoes  having  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  sharp  projections  in  the  lava. 

They  refreshed  themselves  at  the  governor's,  and  after  uniting  with 
him  and  his  family  in  an  evening  tribute  of  praise  to  God,  they  re- 
paired to  their  lodgings,  somewhat  disappointed,  yet  well  repaid  for 
the  toil  of  their  journey. 

MR.   ELLIS  JOINS   THE   PARTY. 

Eight  days  after  the  departure  of  Mr.  Thurston  and  his  companions, 
I  followed  in  a  small  schooner  belonging  to  Keopuolani,  bound  first 
to  Lahaina,  and  then  to  Hawaii  for  sandal  wood. 

Kalakua,  one  of  the  queens  of  the  late  Tamehameha,  and  Kekau- 
ruohe  her  daughter,  were  proceeding  in  the  same  vessel  to  join  the 
king  and  other  chiefs  at  Maui.  The  trade  wind  blew  fresh  from  the 
north-east,  and  the  sea  was  unusually  rough  in  the  channel  between 
Oahu  and  Morokai.  The  schooner  appeared  to  be  a  good  sea-boat,  but 
proved  a  very  uncomfortable  one;  the  deck,  from  stem  to  stern,  being 
continually  overflowed,  all  who  could  not  get  below  were  constantly 
drenched  with  the  spray. 

The  cabin  was  low,  and  so  filled  with  the  chief  women  and  their 
companions,  that,  where  space  could  be  found  sufficient  to  stand  or 
sit,  it  was  hardly  possible  to  endure  the  heat.  The  evening,  however, 
was  fine,  and  the  night  free  from  rain. 

At  daylight  next  morning,  being  close  in  with  the  west  point  of 
Morokai,  we  tacked,  and  stood  to  the  southward  till  noon,  when  we 
again  steered  to  the  northward,  and  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
were  within  half  a  mile  of  the  high  bluff  rocks  which  form  the  south- 
ern point  of  Ranai. 


57 
STOPPING  THE   SHIP  TO   FISH. 

A  light  air  then  came  off  the  land,  and  carried  us  slowly  along  the 
shore,  till  about  an  hour  before  sun-set,  when  Kekauruohe  said  she 
wished  for  some  fish,  and  requested  the  master  to  stop  the  vessel  while 
she  went  to  procure  them  among  the  adjacent  rocks.  Her  wishes  were 
gratified,  and  the  boat  was  hoisted  out. 

Kekauruohe  and  three  of  her  female  attendants  proceeded  towards 
the  rocks  that  lie  along  the  base  of  the  precipice,  about  half  a  mile 
distant.  The  detention  thus  occasioned  afforded  time  to  observe  more 
particularly  the  neighbouring  coast. 

The  face  of  the  high  and  perpendicular  rocks  in  this  part  of  the 
island  indicate  that  Eanai  is  either  of  volcanic  origin,  or,  at  some 
remote  period,  has  undergone  the  action  of  fire.  Different  strata  of 
lava,  of  varied  colour  and  thickness,  are  distinctly  marked  from  the 
water's  edge  to  the  highest  point.  These  strata,  lying  almost  hori- 
zontally, are  in  some  places  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  thick,  in  others 
not  more  than  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches. 

After  fishing  about  an  hour,  Kekauruohe  and  her  companions  re- 
turned with  a  quantity  of  limpets,  peri-winkles,  &c,  of  which  they 
made  a  hearty  supper.  The  wind  died  away  with  the  setting  of  the 
sun,  until  about  9  p.  m.  when  a  light  breeze  came  from  the  land,  and 
wafted  us  slowly  on  our  passage. 

The  southern  shore  of  Eanai  is  usually  avoided  by  masters  of  ves- 
sels acquainted  with  the  navigation  among  the  islands,  on  account  of 
the  light  and  variable  winds  or  calms  generally  experienced  there; 
the  course  of  the  trade-winds  being  intercepted  by  the  high  lands  of 
Maui  and  Eanai. 

It  is  not  unusual  for  vessels,  passing  that  way,  to  be  becalmed 
there  for  six,  eight,  or  even  ten  days.  The  natives,  with  the  small 
craft  belonging  to  the  islands,  usually  keep  close  in  shore,  avail  them- 
selves of  the  gentle  land-breeze  to  pass  the  point  in  the  evening,  and 
run  into  Lahaina  with  the  sea-breeze  in  the  morning;  but  this  is 
attended  with  danger,  as  there  is  usually  a  heavy  swell  rolling  in 
towards  the  land.  One  or  two  vessels  have  escaped  being  drifted  on 
the  rocks,  only  by  the  prompt  assistance  of  their  boats. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    LAHAINA    IN    1823. 

At  day-break,  on  the  4th,  we  found  ourselves  within  about  four 
miles  of  Lahaina,  which  is  the  principal  district  in  Maui,  on  account 
of  its  being  the  general  residence  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  common  re- 
sort of  ships  that  touch  at  the  island  for  refreshments.  A  dead  calm 
prevailed,  but  by  means  of  two  large  sweeps  or  oars,  each  worked  by 
four  men,  we  reached  the  roads,  and  anchored  at  6  a.  m. 

The  appearance  of  Lahaina  from  the  anchorage  is  singularly  roman- 


58 

tic  and  beautiful.  A  fine  sandy  beach  stretches  along  the  margin  of 
the  sea,  lined  for  a  considerable  distance  -with  houses,  and  adorned 
with  shady  clumps  of  kou  trees,  or  waving  groves  of  cocoa-nuts.  The 
former  is  a  species  of  cordia;  the  cordia  sebastina  in  Cook's  voyages. 

The  level  land  of  the  whole  district, , for  about  three  miles,  is  one 
continued  garden,  laid  out  in  beds  of  taro,  potatoes,  yams,  sugar- 
cane, or  cloth  plants.  The  lowly  cottage  of  the  farmer  is  seen  peep- 
ing through  the  leaves  of  the  luxuriant  plantain  and  banana  tree, 
and  in  every  direction  white  columns  of  smoke  ascend,  curling  up 
among  the  wide-spreading  branches  of  the  bread-fruit  tree. 

The  sloping  hills  immediately  behind,  and  the  lofty  mountains  in 
the  interior,  clothed  with  verdure  to  their  very  summits,  intersected 
by  deep  and  dark  ravines,  frequently  enlivened  by  glittering  water- 
falls, or  divided  by  winding  valleys,  terminate  the  delightful  prospect. 

MEETING  THE   KING. 

Shortly  after  coming  to  anchor,  a  boat  came  from  the  barge,  for 
the  chiefs  on  board,  and  I  accompanied  them  to  the  shore. 

On  landing,  I  was  kindly  greeted  by  Keoua,  governor  of  the 
place;  and  shortly  afterwards  met  and  welcomed  by  Mr.  Stewart,  who 
was  just  returning  from  morning  worship  with  Keopuolani  and  her 
husband. 

We  waited  on  Eihoriho,  the  late  king,  in  his  tent.  He  was,  as  usual, 
neatly  and  respectably  dressed,  having  on  a  suit  of  superfine  blue, 
made  after  the  European  fashion. 

We  were  courteously  received,  and  after  spending  a  few  minutes 
in  conversation  respecting  my  journey  to  Hawaii,  and  answering  his 
inquiries  relative  to  Oahu,  we  walked  together  about  half  a  mile, 
through  groves  of  plantain  and  sugar  cane,  over  a  well-cultivated 
tract  of  land,  to  Mr.  Butler's  establishment,  in  one  of  whose  houses 
the  missionaries  were  comfortably  accommodated,  until  their  own 
could  be  erected,  and  where  I  was  kindly  received  by  all  the  mem- 
bers of  the  mission  family. 

After  breakfast  I  walked  down  to  the  beach,  and  there  learned  that 
the  king  had  sailed  for  Morokai,  and  that  Kalakua  intended  to  fol- 
low in  the  schooner  in  which  she  had  come  from  Oahu.  This  obliged 
me  to  wait  for  the  Ainoa,  another  native  vessel,  hourly  expected  at 
Lahaina,  on  her  way  to  Hawaii. 

ATTITUDE    OF    QUEEN   KEOPUOLANI. 

The  forenoon  was  spent  in  conversation  with  Keopuolani,  queen  of 
Mauhi,  and  mother  of  Eihoriho,  king  of  all  the  islands.  She,  as  well 
as  the  other  chiefs  present,  appeared  gratified  with  an  account  of  the 
attention   given  to  the   means   of   instruction   at   Oahu,   and   desirous 


59 

that  the  people  of  Lahaina  might  enjoy  all  the  advantages  of  Chris- 
tian education.  Taua,  the  native  teacher  from  Huahine,  appeared 
diligently  employed  among  Keopuolani's  people,  many  of  whom  were 
his  scholars;  and  I  was  happy  to  learn  from  Messrs.  Stewart  and 
Eichards,  that  he  was  vigilant  and  faithful  in  his  work. 

At  sun-rise  next  morning,  Mr.  Stewart  and  I  walked  down  to  Keo- 
puolani's, to  attend  the  usual  morning  exercises,  in  the  large  house 
near  the  sea.  About  fifty  persons  were  present.  In  the  afternoon  I 
accompanied  the  missionaries  to  their  schools  on  the  beach.  The 
proficiency  of  many  of  the  pupils  in  reading,  spelling,  and  writing  on 
slates,  was  pleasing. 

A  HULA  DESCRIBED. 

Just  as  they  had  finished  their  afternoon  instruction,  a  party  of 
musicians  and  dancers  arrived  before  the  house  of  Keopuolani,  and 
commenced  a  hura  ka  raau,  (dance  to  the  beating  of  a  stick).  Five 
musicians  advanced  first,  each  with  a  staff  in  his  left  hand,  five  or 
six  feet  long,  about  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter  at  one  end,  and 
tapering  off  to  a  point  at  the  other. 

In  his  right  hand  he  held  a  small  stick  of  hard  wood,  six  or  nine 
inches  long,  with  which  he  commenced  his  music,  by  striking  the 
small  stick  on  the  larger  one,  beating  time  all  the  while  with  his 
right  foot  on  a  stone,  placed  on  the  ground  beside  him  for  that  pur- 
pose. 

Six  women,  fantastical^  dressed  in  yellow  tapas,  crowned  with 
garlands  of  flowers,  having  also  wreaths  of  the  sweet-scented  flowers 
of  the  gardenia  on  their  necks,  and  branches  of  the  fragrant  mairi, 
(another  native  plant,)  bound  round  their  ancles,  now  made  their  way 
by  couples  through  the  crowd,  and,  arriving  at  the  area,  on  one  side 
of  which  the  musicians  stood,  began  their  dance. 

Their  movements  were  slow,  and  though  not  always  graceful,  ex- 
hibited nothing  offensive  to  modest  propriety. 

Both  musicians  and  dancers  alternately  chanted  songs  in  honour  of 
former  gods  and  chiefs  of  the  islands,  apparently  much  to  the  grati- 
fication of  the  numerous  spectators. 

FROM   HULA   TO   PRAYERS. 

After  they  had  continued  their  hura,  (song  and  dance,)  for  about 
half  an  hour,  the  queen,  Keopuolani,  requested  them  to  leave  off,  as 
the  time  had  arrived  for  evening  worship.  The  music  ceased;  the 
dancers  sat  down;  and,  after  the  missionaries  and  some  of  the  people 
had  sung  one  of  the  songs  of  Zion,  I  preached  to  the  surrounding 
multitude  with  special  reference  to  their  former  idolatrous  dances, 
and    the    vicious    customs    connected    therewith,    from    Acts   xvii.    30. 


60 

"The  times  of  this  ignorance  God  winked  at,  but  now  commandeth 
ill  men  every  where  to  repent." 

The  audience  was  attentive;  and  when  the  service  was  finished, 
the  people  dispersed,  and  the  dancers  returned  to  their  houses. 

On  our  way  home,  the  voice  of  lamentation  arrested  our  attention. 
Listening  a  few  moments,  we  found  it  proceeded  from  a  lowly  cot- 
tage, nearly  concealed  by  close  rows  of  sugar-cane.  When  we  reached 
the  spot,  we  beheld  a  middle-aged  woman,  and  two  elderly  men, 
weeping  around  the  mat  of  a  sick  man,  apparently  near  his  end. 
Finding  him  entirely  ignorant  of  God,  and  of  a  future  state,  we 
spoke  to  him  of  Jehovah,  of  the  fallen  condition  of  man,  of  the  amaz- 
ing love  of  Christ  in  suffering  death  for  the  redemption  of  the  world, 
and  recommended  him  to  pray  to  the  Son  of  God,  who  was  able  to 
save  to  the  uttermost. 

He  said  that  until  now  he  knew  nothing  of  these  things,  and  was 
glad  he  had  lived  to  hear  of  them.  "We  requested  one  of  his  friends 
to  come  to  our  house  for  some  medicine;  and  having  endeavoured  to 
comfort  the  mourners,  bade  them  farewell. 

The  Ainoa  was  seen  approaching  from  the  southward,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  6th.  About  two  p.  m.  she  came  to  anchor,  having  been 
becalmed  off  Eanai  four  days. 

A   SUNDAY'S    WORK   AT   LAHAINA. 

This  day  being  the  Sabbath,  at  half-past  ten  the  mission  family 
walked  down  to  the  beach  to  public  worship.  Most  of  the  chiefs, 
and  about  three  hundred  people,  assembled  under  the  pleasant  shade 
of  a  beautiful  clump  of  kou  trees,  in  front  of  Keopuolani's  house. 
After  singing  and  prayer,  I  preached  from  Luke  x.  23,  24.  "Blessed 
are  the  eyes  which  see  the  things  which  ye  see:  for  I  tell  you,  that 
many  prophets  and  kings  have  desired  to  see  those  things  which  ye 
see,  and  have  not  seen  them;  and  to  hear  those  things  which  ye  hear, 
and  have  not  heard  them. ' ' 

After  service,  when  we  went  to  present  our  salutations  to  Keopu- 
olani,  we  found  her,  Kaikioewa,  and  several  chiefs,  conversing  about 
Tamehameha,  and  others  of  their  ancestors,  who  had  died  idolaters, 
and  expressing  their  regret  that  the  gospel  had  not  been  brought  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands  in  their  day.  "But  perhaps,"  said  Keopuolani, 
' '  they  will  have  less  punishment  in  the  other  world  for  worshipping 
idols,  than  those,  who,  though  they  do  not  worship  wooden  gods,  yet 
see  these  days,  and  hear  these  good  things,  and  still  disregard  them." 

As  we  returned,  I  visited  the  sick  man;  found  him  rather  better 
than  on  the  preceding  evening,  and  again  recommended  the  Son  of 
God  as  all-sufficient  to  save. 


61 


GAME   OF   PUHENEHENE   DESCRIBED. 


I  afterwards  saw  a  party  at  buhenehene.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  games  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  favourite  amusement 
of  the  king,  and  higher  order  of  chiefs,  frequently  occupying  them 
whole  days  together.  It  principally  consists  in  hiding  a  small  stone 
under  one  of  five  pieces  of  native  tapa,  so  as  to  prevent  the  spectators 
from  discovering  under  which  piece  it  is  hid. 

The  parties  at  play  sit  cross-legged,  on  mats  spread  on  the  ground, 
each  one  holding  in  his  right  hand  a  small  elastic  rod,  about  three 
feet  long,  and  highly  polished. 

At  the  small  end  of  this  stick  there  is  a  narrow  slit  or  hole,  through 
which  a  piece  of  dog's  skin,  with  a  tuft  of  shaggy  hair  on  it,  or  a 
piece  of  ti  leaf,  is  usually  drawn. 

Five  pieces  of  tapa,  of  different  colours,  each  loosely  folded  up  like 
a  bundle,  are  then  placed  between  the  two  parties,  which  generally 
consists  of  five  persons  each. 

One  person  is  then  selected  on  each  side  to  hide  the  stone.  He 
who  is  first  to  hide  it,  takes  it  in  his  right  hand,  lifts  up  the  cloth  at 
one  end,  puts  his  arm  under  as  far  as  his  elbow,  and,  passing  it  along 
several  times,  underneath  the  five  pieces  of  cloth,  which  lie  in  a  line 
contiguous  to  each  other,  he  finally  leaves  it  under  one  of  them. 

The  other  party  sit  opposite,  watching  closely  the  action  in  the 
muscles  of  the  upper  part  of  his  arm;  and,  it  is  said,  that  adepts  can 
discover  the  place  where  the  stone  is  deposited,  by  observing  the 
change  that  takes  place  in  those  muscles,  when  the  hand  ceases  to 
grasp  it. 

Having  deposited  the  stone,  the  hider  withdraws  his  arm;  and,  with 
many  gestures,  separates  the  contiguous  pieces  of  cloth  into  five  dis- 
tinct heaps,  leaving  a  narrow  space  between  each. 

The  opposite  party,  having  keenly  observed  this  process,  now  point 
with  their  wands  or  sticks  to  the  different  heaps  under  wiiich  they 
suppose  the  stone  lies,  looking  significantly,  at  the  same  time,  full  in 
the  face  of  the  man  who  had  hid  it.  He  sits  all  the  while,  holding 
his  fingers  before  his  eyes,  to  prevent  their  noticing  any  change  in 
his  countenance,  should  one  of  them  point  to  the  heap  under  which  it 
is  hid. 

Having  previously  agreed  who  shall  strike  first,  that  individual, 
looking  earnestly  at  the  hider,  lifts  his  rod,  and  strikes  a  smart  blow 
across  the  heap  he  had  selected.  The  cloth  is  instantly  lifted  up; 
and  should  the  stone  appear  under  it,  his  party  have  won  that  hid- 
ing, with  one  stroke;  if  it  is  not  there,  the  others  strike,  till  the  stone 
is  found. 

The  same  party  hide  the  stone  five  or  ten  times  successively,  ac- 
cording to  their  agreement  at  the  commencement  of  the  play;   and 


G2 

whichever  party  discovers  it  the  given  number  of  times,  with  fewest 
Btrokes,  wins  the  game. 

Sometimes  they  reverse  it;  and  those  win,  who,  in  a  given  number 
of  times,  strike  most  heaps  without  uncovering  the  stone. 

GAMBLING    FREQUENT. 

Occasionally  they  play  for  amusement  only;  but  more  frequently  for 
money,  or  other  articles  of  value,  which  they  stake  on  the  game. 

I  went  to  the  party,  whom  I  found  thus  engaged;  and  after  a  few 
minutes'  conversation,  told  them,  that  it  was  the  sacred  day  of  God, 
and  induced  them  to  put  aside  their  play,  and  promise  to  attend  pub- 
lie  worship  in  the  afternoon. 

Leaving  them,  I  passed  through  a  garden,  where  a  man  was  at 
work  weeding  and  watering  a  bed  of  cloth  plants.  I  asked  him  if  he 
did  not  know  it  was  the  sacred  day,  and  improper  for  him  to  work? 
The  man  answered,  yes,  he  knew  it  was  the  la  tabu,  (sacred  day,) 
and  that  Karaimoku  had  given  orders  for  the  people  of  Lahaina  not 
to  work  on  that  day;  but  said,  he  was  hana  maru  no,  (just  working 
secretly;)  that  was  some  distance  from  the  beach,  and  the  chiefs 
would  not  see  him. 

I  then  told  him  he  might  do  it  without  the  chiefs  seeing  him,  but 
it  was  prohibited  by  a  higher  power  than  the  chiefs,  even  by  the  God 
of  heaven  and  earth,  who  could  see  him  alike  in  every  place,  by 
night  and  by  day. 

He  said  he  did  not  know  that  before,  and  would  leave  off  when 
he  had  finished  the  row  of  cloth  plants  he  was  then  weeding! 

Mr.  Stewart  conducted  an  English  service  in  the  afternoon.  The 
sound  of  the  hura  in  a  remote  part  of  the  district  was  occasionally 
heard  through  the  after-part  of  the  day,  but  whether  countenanced 
by  any  of  the  chiefs,  or  only  exhibited  for  the  amusement  of  the 
common  people,  we  did  not  learn. 

At  four  o'clock  we  again  walked  down  to  the  beach,  and  found 
about  two  hundred  people  collected  under  the  kou  trees;  many  more 
afterwards  came,  and  after  the  introductory  exercises,  I  preached  to 
them  upon  the  doctrine  of  the  resurrection  and  a  future  state,  from 
John  xi.  25. 

The  congregation  seemed  much  interested.  Probably  it  was  the  first 
time  many  had  ever  heard  of  the  awful  hour,  when  the  trumpet  shall 
sound,  and  the  dead  shall  be  raised,  and  stand  before  God.  At  the 
conclusion  of  the  service,  notice  was  given  of  the  monthly  missionary 
prayer-meeting  on  the  morrow  evening,  and  the  people  were  invited  to 
attend 


63 
SINCERETY    OP    KEOPUOLANI. 

Taua,  the  native  teacher  of  Keopuolani,  visited  the  family  in  the 
evening,  and  gave  a  very  pleasing  account  of  Keopuolani 's  frequent 
conversations  with  him,  on  the  love  of  God  in  sending  his  Son,  on 
the  death  of  Christ,  and  on  her  great  desire  to  have  a  new  heart,  and 
become  a  true  follower  of  the  Eedeemer.  He  informed  us,  that  after 
most  of  the  attendants  had  retired,  she  had  several  times  sent  for 
him,  at  nine  or  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening,  to  engage  in  prayer  with 
her  and  her  husband,  before  they  retired  to  rest. 

This  account  was  truly  gratifying,  and  tended  much  to  strengthen 
the  pleasing  hope,  which,  from  her  uniform,  humble,  and  christian 
conduct,  had  for  some  time  been  indulged,  that  a  saving  change  had 
taken  place  in  her  heart. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  7th  I  walked  to  the  sea  side  with  Mr. 
Eichards,  and  waited  on  the  queen  Keopuolani,  to  converse  with  her 
respecting  the  houses  and  fences  which  she  had  kindly  engaged  to 
erect  for  the  missionaries. 

The  interview  was  satisfactory.  Keopuolani  seemed  anxious  to 
make  them  comfortable,  and  assured  Mr.  Richards  that  the  houses 
would  soon  be  ready  for  them. 

We  then  visited  Mauro,  the  chief  of  Waiakea,  a  large  district  on 
the  eastern  side  of  Hawaii.  He  had  been  on  a  short  visit  to  the 
king,  at  Oahu,  and  was  returning  to  his  land  in  the  Ainoa. 

He  received  us  kindly,  and,  when  informed  that  I  wished  to  pro- 
ceed in  the  vessel  to  Hawaii,  said,  "It  is  good  that  you  should  go; 
we  shall  sail  to-morrow." 

The  eastern  part  of  Lahaina,  in  which  he  had  his  encampment,  was 
highly  cultivated,  and  adorned  with  some  beautiful  groves  of  kou 
trees  and  cocoa-nuts.  There  were  also  several  large  ponds,  well 
stocked  with  excellent  fish. 

On  returning  from  our  visit  to  Maaro,  we  found  the  people  col- 
lecting under  the  cool  shade  of  their  favourite  trees,  in  front  of 
Keopuolani 's  house,  for  the  purpose  of  attending  the  monthly  mis- 
sionary prayer  meeting.  About  five  o'clock  the  service  commenced. 
I  gave  an  address  from  the  Saviour's  commission  to  the  first  mis- 
sionaries to  the  heathen.  Matt,  xxviii.  19.  "Go  ye,  therefore,  and 
teach  all  nations." 

The  audience  appeared  gratified  with  the  brief  account  given  of 
the  missionary  operations  of  the  present  day,  especially  those  among 
the  various  clustering  islands  of  the  Pacific,  with  whose  inhabitants 
they  feel  themselves  more  particularly  identified,  than  with  the  native 
tribes  of  Africa  or  Asia. 

It  was  a  circumstance  truly  animating  to  see  so  many  of  those  who, 
wrapt  in  the  thick  darkness  of  paganism,  had  till  lately  worshipped 


64 

the  work  of  their  own  hands,  and  ' '  sacrificed ' '  their  fellow-creatures 
"to  devils,"  now  joining  in  concert  with  Christians  of  every  nation, 
in  praying  for  the  spread  of  the  gospel  of  Jesus  throughout  the  world. 

A   CONVERSATION   WITH  THE   KING'S   SERVANTS. 

After  breakfast  on  the  8th,  I  visited  a  neat  strong  brick  house, 
which  stands  on  the  beach,  about  the  middle  of  the  district.  It  was 
erected  for  Tamehanieha;  appears  well  built,  is  forty  feet  by  twenty, 
has  two  stories,  and  is  divided  into  four  rooms  by  strong  boarded 
partitions.  It  was  the  occasional  residence  of  the  late  king,  but  by 
the  present  is  used  only  as  a  warehouse. 

Several  persons  who  appeared  to  have  the  charge  of  it,  were  living 
in  one  of  the  apartments,  and  having  looked  over  the  house,  and 
made  some  inquiries  about  the  native  timber  employed  for  the  floor, 
beams,  &c.  I  sat  down  on  one  of  the  bales  of  cloth  lying  in  the  room 
where  the  natives  were  sitting,  and  asked  them  if  they  knew  how 
to  read,  or  if  any  of  them  attended  the  school,  and  the  religious  ser- 
vices on  the  Sabbath?  On  their  answering  in  the  negative,  I  advised 
them  not  to  neglect  these  advantages,  assuring  them  that  it  was  a 
good  thing  to  be  instructed,  and  to  know  the  true  God,  and  his  son 
Jesus  Christ,  the  only  Saviour. 

They  said,  "Perhaps  it  is  a  good  thing  for  some  to  attend  to  the 
palapala  and  the  pule  (to  reading  and  prayers,)  but  we  are  the  king's 
servants,  and  must  attend  to  his  concerns.  If  we  (meaning  all  those 
that  had  the  care  of  the  king's  lands)  were  to  spend  our  time  at 
our  books,  there  would  be  nobody  to  cultivate  the  ground,  to  provide 
food,  or  cut  sandal  wood  for  the  king." 

I  asked  them  what  proportion  of  their  time  was  taken  up  in  attend- 
ing to  these  things?  They  said  they  worked  in  the  plantations  three 
or  four  days  in  a  week,  sometimes  from  daylight  till  nine  or  ten 
o'clock  in  the  forenoon;  that  preparing  an  oven  of  food  took  an  hour; 
and  that  when  they  went  for  sandal  wood,  which  was  not  very  often, 
they  were  gone  three  or  four  days,  and  sometimes  as  many  weeks. 

They  were  the  king's  servants,  and  generally  work  much  less  than 
the  people  who  occupy  the  lands,  or  cultivate  them. 

I  asked  them  what  they  did  in  the  remaining  part  of  those  days 
in  which  they  worked  at  their  plantations  in  the  morning;  and  also 
on  those  days  when  they  did  not  work  at  all? 

They  said  they  ate  poe,  laid  down  to  sleep,  or  kamailio  no  (just 
talked  for  amusement). 

They  were  then  asked,  which  they  thought  would  be  most  advan- 
tageous to  them,  to  spend  that  time  in  learning  to  read,  and  seeking 
the  favour  of  Jehovah  and  Jesus  Christ,  that  they  might  live  for 
ever,  or  wasting  it  in  eating,  sleeping,  or  foolish  talking,  and  remain- 


65 

ing  ignorant  in  this  world,  and  liable  to  wretchedness  in  that  which 
was  to  come? 

They  immediately  endeavoured  to  give  a  different  turn  to  the  con- 
versation, by  saying,  "What  a  fine  country  yours  must  be,  compared 
with  this! 

What  large  bales  of  cloth  come  from  thence,  while  the  clothing 
of  Hawaii  is  small  in  quantity,  and  very  bad. 

The  soil  there  must  be  very  prolific,  and  property  easily  obtained, 
or  so  much  of  it  would  not  have  been  brought  here. 

I  informed  them,  that  the  difference  was  not  so  great  between  the 
countries  as  between  the  people. 

That,  many  ages  back,  the  ancestors  of  the  present  inhabitants  of 
England  and  America  possessed  fewer  comforts  than  the  Sandwich 
islanders  now  enjoy;  wore  skins  of  beasts  for  clothing;  painted  their 
bodies  with  various  colours;  and  worshipped  with  inhuman  rites  their 
cruel  gods:  but  since  they  had  become  enlightened  and  industrious, 
and  had  embraced  Christianity,  they  had  been  wise  and  rich;  and 
many,  there  was  reason  to  hope,  had,  after  death,  gone  to  a  state  of 
happiness  in  another  world;  that  they  owed  all  their  present  wealth 
and  enjoyment  to  their  intelligence  and  industry;  and  that,  if  the 
people  of  either  country  were  to  neglect  education  and  religion,  and 
spend  as  much  of  their  time  in  eating,  sleeping,  and  jesting,  they 
would  soon  become  as  poor  and  as  ignorant  as  the  Sandwich  islanders. 

They  said,  perhaps  it  was  so;  perhaps  industry  and  instruction 
would  make  them  happier  and  better,  and,  if  the  chiefs  wished  it, 
by  and  by  they  would  attend  to  both. 

After  again  exhorting  them  to  improve  the  means  now  placed 
within  their  reach  by  the  residence  of  the  missionaries  among  them, 
I  took  leave  of  them. 

During  the  forenoon,  I  went  into  several  other  houses,  and  con- 
versed with  the  people  on  subjects  relating  to  the  mission,  recom- 
mending their  attention  to  the  advantages  it  was  designed  to  confer. 
Some  approved,  but  many  seemed  very  well  satisfied  with  their 
present  state  of  ignorance  and  irreligion,  and  rather  unwilling  to  be 
disturbed. 

After  having  united  with  the  family  in  their  evening  devotions, 
on  the  9th  I  took  my  leave,  grateful  for  the  hospitable  entertain- 
ment and  kind  attention  I  had  experienced,  during  my  unexpected 
stay  at  their  interesting  station.  I  regretted  that  the  illness  of  Mr. 
Stewart,  which  had  been  increasing  for  several  days,  prevented  his 
accompanying  me  on  my  projected  tour. 

DIFFICULTIES   OF    INTEIMSAND   TRAVEL. 

At  nine  o'clock  I  walked  down  to  the  beach,  but  waited  till  mid- 
night before  an  opportunity  offered  for  getting  on  board.     On  reach- 

5 


66 

ing  the  brig,  I  learned  that  they  did  not  intend  to  sail  till  daylight. 

There  were  such  multitudes  of  natives  on  board,  and  every  place 
was  so  crowded,  that  it  was  impossible  to  pass  from  the  gangway 
to  the  companion  without  treading  on  them;  and  it  was  difficult  any 
where,  either  below  or  upon  deck,  to  find  room  sufficient  to  lie  down. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  10th  the  vessel  was  under  way,  but 
the  light  winds,  and  strong  westerly  current,  soon  rendered  it  neces- 
sary to  anchor.  Between  eight  and  nine  I  went  on  shore,  and  after 
breakfasting  with  the  Mission  family,  returned  to  the  beach,  that  I 
might  be  ready  to  embark  whenever  the  wind  should  become  favour- 
able. I  sat  down  in  Keopuolani's  house,  and  entered  into  an  inter- 
esting conversation  with  her,  Hoapiri,  and  several  other  chiefs,  re- 
specting their  ancient  traditions  and  mythology. 

One  of  the  ancient  gods  of  Maui,  prior  to  its  subjugation  by  Tame- 
hameha,  they  said,  was  Keoroeva.  The  body  of  the  image  was  of 
wood,  and  was  arrayed  in  garments  of  native  tapa.  The  head  and 
neck  were  formed  of  a  kind  of  fine  basket  or  wicker  work,  covered 
over  with  red  feathers,  so  curiously  wrought  in  as  to  resemble  the 
skin  of  a  beautiful  bird.  A  native  helmet  was  placed  on  the  idol's 
head,  from  the  crown  of  which  long  tresses  of  human  hair  hung  down 
over  its  shoulders.  Its  mouth,  like  the  greater  number  of  the  Hawai- 
ian idols,  was  large  and  distended. 

KEOROEVA— A    MAUI   GOD. 

In  all  the  temples  dedicated  to  its  worship,  the  image  was  placed 
within  the  inner  apartment,  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  door,  and 
immediately  before  it  stood  the  altar,  on  which  the  offerings  of  every 
kind  were  usually  placed. 

They  did  not  say  whether  human  victims  were  ever  sacrificed  to 
appease  its  imagined  wrath,  but  large  offerings,  of  every  thing  valu- 
able, were  frequent. 

Sometimes  hogs  were  taken  alive,  as  presents.  The  large  ones  were 
led,  and  the  smaller  ones  carried  in  the  arms  of  the  priest,  into  the 
presence  of  the  idols.  The  priest  then  pinched  the  ears  or  the  tail  of 
the  pig  till  it  made  a  squeaking  noise,  when  he  addressed  the  god, 
saying,  "Here  is  the  offering  of  such  a  one  of  your  kahu, "  (de- 
votees). 

WHEN  A  PIG  WAS  SUPERIOR  TO  A  MAN. 
A  hole  was  then  made  in  the  pig's  ear,  a  piece  of  cinet,  made  of  the 
fibres  of  the  cocoa-nut  husk,  was  fastened  in  it,  and  the  pig  was  set 
at  liberty  until  the  priest  had  occasion  for  him.  In  consequence  of 
this  mark,  which  distinguished  the  sacred  hog,  he  was  allowed  to 
range  the  district  at  pleasure;  and  whatever  depredations  he  might 


67 

commit,  driving  him  away  from  the  enclosures  into  which  he  had 
broken,  was  the  only  punishment  allowed  to  be  inflicted. 

Keoroeva's  hogs  were  not  the  only  ones  thus  privileged.  The 
same  lenient  conduct  was  observed  towards  all  the  sacred  pigs,  to 
whatever  idol  they  had  been  offered. 

Tiha,  a  female  idol,  they  said  was  also  held  in  great  veneration 
by  the  people  of  Maui,  and  received  nearly  the  same  homage  and 
offerings  as  Keoroeva. 

THE  GODS  OP  LANAI  AND  MOLOKAI. 

The  people  of  Eanai,  an  adjacent  island,  had  a  number  of  idols, 
but  those  best  known  by  the  chiefs  with  whom  I  was  conversing, 
were  Eaeapua  and  Kaneapua,  two  large  carved  stone  images,  repre- 
senting the  deities  supposed  to  preside  over  the  sea,  and  worshipped 
chiefly  by  fishermen. 

Mooarii,  (king  of  lizards  or  alligators,)  a  shark,  was  also  a 
celebrated  marine  god,  worshipped  by  the  inhabitants  of  Morokai, 
another  island  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  chiefs  informed  me,  that 
on  almost  every  point  of  land  projecting  any  distance  into  the  sea,  a 
temple  was  formerly  erected  for  his  worship. 

Several  kinds  of  fish  arrive  in  shoals  on  their  coast,  every  year,  in 
their  respective  seasons.  The  first  fish  of  each  kind,  taken  by  the 
fishermen,  were  always  carried  to  the  heiau,  and  offered  to  their  god, 
whose  influence  they  imagined  had  driven  them  to  their  shores. 

In  some  remote  period,  perhaps,  they  had  observed  the  sharks  chas- 
ing or  devouring  these  fish,  as  they  passed  along  among  their  islands, 
and  from  this  circumstance  had  been  led  to  deify  the  monster,  sup- 
posing themselves  indebted  to  him  for  the  bountiful  supplies  thus 
furnished  by  a  gracious  Providence. 

MANY   SEA   GODS. 

They  had  a  number  of  sea  gods,  besides  those  whom  they  imagined 
directed  the  shoals  of  fishes  to  their  shores.  They  had  also  gods  who 
controlled  the  winds  and  changed  the  weather. 

During  a  storm,  or  other  season  of  danger  at  sea,  they  offered  up 
their  paro,  or  pule  kurana,  a  particular  kind  of  prayer;  but  it  is 
not  known  to  what  idol  they  addressed  it.  On  these  occasions,  their 
dread  of  perishing  at  sea  frequently  led  them  to  make  vows  to  some 
favourite  deity;  and  if  they  ever  reached  the  land,  it  was  their  first 
business  to  repair  to  the  temple,  and  fulfil  their  vows.  These  vows 
were  generally  considered  most  sacred  engagements;  and  it  was  ex- 
pected that,  sooner  or  later,  some  judgment  would  overtake  those 
who  failed  to  perform  them. 


68 

It  is  not.  improbable,  that  the  priests  of  those  idols,  in  order  to 
maintain  their  influence  over  the  people,  either  poisoned  the  delin- 
quents, or  caused  them  to  sustain  some  other  injury. 

KALAIPAHOA,    THE    GREAT   POISON    GOD. 

Karaipahoa  was  also  a  famous  idol,  originally  belonging  to  Morokai. 
It  was  a  middling-sized  wooden  image,  curiously  carved;  the  arms 
were  extended,  the  fingers  spread  out,  the  head  was  ornamented  with 
human  hair,  and  the  widely  distended  mouth  was  armed  with  rows 
of  shark's  teeth. 

The  wood  of  which  the  image  was  made  was  so  poisonous,  that  if 
a  small  piece  of  it  was  chipped  into  a  dish  of  poe,  or  steeped  in  water, 
whoever  ate  the  poe  or  drank  the  water,  the  natives  reported,  would 
certainly  die  in  less  than  twenty-four  hours   afterwards. 

We  were  never  able  to  procure  a  sight  of  this  image,  though  we 
have  been  repeatedly  informed  that  it  still  exists,  not  indeed  in  one 
compact  image,  as  it  was  divided  in  several  parts  on  the  death  of 
Tamehameha,  and  distributed  among  the  principal  chiefs. 

It  is  a  known  fact,  that  the  natives  use  several  kinds  of  vegetable 
poison;  and  probably  the  wood  of  which  the  idol  was  made  is 
poisonous.  But  the  report  of  the  virulence  of  the  poison  is  most  likely 
one  of  the  many  stratagems  so  frequently  employed  by  the  chiefs  and 
priests,  to  maintain  their  influence  over  the  minds  of  the  people. 

A  smaller  image  of  the  same  god  was  formed  of  nioi,  a  hard  yel- 
low wood,  of  which  idols  were  usually  made.  This  was  left  at  Moro- 
kai, the  original  being  always  carried  about  by  Tamehameha,  and, 
it  is  said,  placed  under  his  pillow  whenever  he  slept. 

THE   TRADITION  OF   THE   ORIGIN   OF  KALAIPAHOA. 

The  following  is  the  tradition  given  by  the  natives  of  the  original 
idol. 

In  the  reign  of  Kumaraua,  an  ancient  king  of  Morokai,  lived  Ka- 
neakama,  a  great  gambler.  Playing  one  day  at  maita,  (a  Hawaiian 
game,)  he  lost  all  that  he  possessed,  except  one  pig,  which,  having 
dedicated  to  his  god,  he  durst  not  stake  on  his  game. 

In  the  evening  he  returned  home,  laid  down  on  his  mat,  and  fell 
asleep.  His  god  appeared  to  him  in  a  dream,  and  directed  him  to  go 
and  play  again,  on  the  following  day,  and  stake  this  pig  on  his  suc- 
cess in  a  particular  part  of  the  play.  He  awoke  in  the  morning,  did 
as  the  god  had  directed,  and  was  remarkably  successful  through  the 
day.  Before  he  returned  home  in  the  evening,  he  went  to  the  temple 
of  his  idol,  and  there  dedicated  the  greater  part  of  his  gain. 

During  his  sleep  that  night  the  god  appeared  to  him  again,  and 
requested  him  to  go  to  the  king,  and  tell  him,  that  a  clump  of  trees 


69 

would  be  seen  growing  in  a  certain  place  in  the  morning;  and  that  if 
he  would  have  a  god  made  out  of  one  of  them,  he  would  reside  in 
the  image,  and  impart  to  it  his  power,  signifying  also,  that  Kane- 
akama  should  be  his  priest. 

A    MIRACULOUS    POISON    TREE. 

Early  the  next  morning,  the  man  who  had  received  the  communi- 
cation from  his  god  went  and  delivered  it  to  the  king,  by  whom  he 
was  directed  to  take  a  number  of  men,  and  cut  down  one  of  the  trees, 
and  carve  it  into  an  image. 

As  they  approached  Karuakoi,  a  small  valley  on  the  side  of  one  of 
the  mountains  in  Morokai,  they  were  surprised  at  beholding  a  clump 
of  trees,  where  there  had  been  none  before,  the  gods  having  caused 
them  to  grow  up  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  night.  Into  these 
trees,  Tane,  and  some  other  gods,  are  reported  to  have  entered. 

When  they  arrived  at  the  spot,  the  gods,  by  some  sign,  directed 
Kaneakama  which  tree  to  cut  down.  They  began  to  work  with  their 
short-handled  stone  hatchets;  but  the  chips  flying  on  the  bodies  of  one 
or  two  of  them,  they  instantly  expired. 

Terrified  at  the  dreadful  power  of  the  wood,  the  others  threw 
down  their  hatchets,  and  refused  to  fell  the  tree;  being  urged  by 
Kaneakama,  they  resumed  their  work;  not,  however,  till  they  covered 
their  bodies  and  faces  with  native  cloth,  and  the  leaves  of  the  ti 
plant,  leaving  only  a  small  aperture  opposite  one  of  their  eyes.  In- 
stead of  their  hatchets,  they  took  their  long  daggers,  or  pahoas,  with 
which  they  cut  down  the  tree,  and  carved  out  the  image.  From  this 
circumstance,  the  natives  say,  the  idol  derived  its  name,  Karai-pahoa, 
which  is  literally,  dagger  cut  or  carved;  from  karai,  to  chip  with 
an  adze,  or  carve,  and  pahoa,  a  dagger. 

Excepting  the  deities  supposed  to  preside  over  volcanoes,  no  god 
was  so  much  dreaded  by  the  people  as  Karaipahoa.  All  who  were 
thought  to  have  died  by  poison,  were  said  to  have  been  slain  by 
him. 

IDENTITY    OF    TAHITIAN    AND    HAWAIIAN    TRADITIONS. 

Before  I  left  the  party,  I  could  not  help  stating  to  them  the  strik- 
ing identity  between  some  of  their  traditions  and  those  of  the  Tahi- 
tians;  and  expressed  my  conviction  that  both  nations  had  the  same 
origin. 

They  said,  tradition  informed  them  that  their  progenitors  were 
brought  into  existence  on  the  islands  which  they  now  inhabit;  that 
they  knew  nothing  of  the  origin  of  the  people  of  the  Georgian  and 
Society  Islands,  yet  Tahiti,  the  name  of  the  largest  of  the  Georgian 
Islands,  was  found  in  many  of  their  ancient  songs,  though  not  now 
applied  exclusively  to  that  island. 


70 

PROPOSED    INTERMARRIAGE    BETWEEN    ROYAL    FAMILIES    OP 
TAHITI   AND    HAWAII. 

With  the  people  of  Borabora,  (the  name  they  gave  to  the  Society 
Islands,)  they  said  they  had  no  acquaintance  before  they  were  visited 
by  Captain  Cook,  but  that  since  that  time,  by  means  of  ships  pass- 
ing from  one  group  of  islands  to  the  other,  several  presents  and 
messages  of  friendship  had  been  interchanged  between  Tamehameha 
and  Pomare  I.,  and  that,  in  order  to  cement  their  friendship  more 
firmly,  each  had  agreed  to  give  one  of  his  daughters  in  marriage  to 
the  son  of  the  other. 

In  consequence  of  this  amicable  arrangement,  a  daughter  of  Pomare 
was  expected  from  Tahiti,  to  be  the  wife  of  Rihoriho,  late  king  of 
Hawaii;  and  Kekauruohe,  one  of  the  daughters  of  Tamehameha,  was 
selected  by  her  father  to  be  the  bride  of  Pomare,  the  late  king  of 
Tahiti. 

Wanting  a  conveyance  from  Hawaii  to  Tahiti,  Tamehameha  was 
unable  to  send  Kekauruohe;  which,  together  with  the  death  of  Pomare 
before  he  had  any  opportunity  of  sending  one  of  his  relatives  to 
Hawaii,  prevented  the  intended  intermarriages  between  the  reigning 
families  of  Hawaii  and  Tahiti. 

VOYAGING  PROM   LAHAINA   TO   KAWAIHAE. 

About  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  Ainoa  hove  up  her  anchor. 
I  went  on  board  in  a  canoe  just  as  she  was  leaving  the  roads.  The 
brig  being  about  ninety  tons  burden,  one  of  the  largest  the  natives 
have,  was,  as  has  been  already  observed,  much  crowded,  and,  owing 
to  the  difference  between  the  motion  of  the  vessel  and  that  expe- 
rienced in  their  small  canoes,  many  of  the  natives  soon  became  sea- 
sick. 

It  was  calm  through  the  night,  but  the  wind  blew  fresh  in  the 
morning  from  N.  N.  E.  and  continued  until  noon,  when,  being  under 
the  lee  of  the  high  land  of  Kohala,  one  of  the  large  divisions  of 
Hawaii,  we  were  becalmed. 

At  four  o'clock  p.  m.  a  light  air  sprung  up  from  the  southward, 
and  carried  us  slowly  on  towards  Towaihae,  a  district  in  the  divi- 
sion of  Kohala,  about  four  miles  long,  containing  a  spacious  bay,  and 
good  anchorage.  The  vessel  stood  in  towards  the  north  side  of  the 
bay,  leaving  a  large  heiau,  (heathen  temple,)  situated  on  the  brow 
of  a  hill,  to  the  southward,  and  heading  directly  for  a  deep  gully, 
or  water-course,  called  Honokoa,  opposite  the  mouth  of  which,  about 
7  p.  m.  she  came  to  anchor,  in  10  fathoms,  with  a  good  bottom. 

The  north  side  of  the  bay  affords  much  the  best  anchorage  for 
shipping,  especially  for  those  that  wish  to  lie  near  the  shore.  It  is 
the  best  holding  ground,  and  is  also  screened  by  the  kuahive   (high 


71 

land)  of  Kohala  from  those  sudden  and  violent  gusts  of  wind,  called 
by  the  natives  mumuku,  which  come  down  between  the  mountains  with 
almost  irresistible  fury,  on  the  southern  part  of  Towaihae,  and  the 
adjacent  districts. 

A  MEETING  WITH  JOHN   YOUNG. 

At  six  a.  m.  the  next  day,  I  went  on  shore,  and  walked  along  the 
beach  about  a  mile  to  the  house  of  Mr.  J.  Young,  an  aged  English- 
man, who  has  resided  thirty-six  years  on  the  island,  and  rendered  the 
most  important  services  to  the  late  king;  not  only  in  his  various  civil 
wars,  but  in  all  his  intercourse  with  those  foreigners  who  have  visited 
the  islands. 

I  found  him  recovering  from  a  fit  of  illness,  received  from  him  a 
cordial  welcome,  and,  as  he  was  just  sitting  down  to  his  morning 
repast,  joined  him,  with  pleasure,  at  his  frugal  board. 

THE    GREAT   HEIAU   AT    KAWAIHAE. 

After  breakfast,  I  visited  the  large  heiau  or  temple  called  Bukohola. 
It  stands  on  an  eminence  in  the  southern  part  of  the  district,  and 
was  built  by  Tamehameha  about  thirty  years  ago,  when  he  was  en- 
gaged in  conquering  Hawaii,  and  the  rest  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

He  had  subdued  Maui,  Eanai,  and  Morokai,  and  was  preparing, 
from  the  latter,  to  invade  Oahu,  but  in  consequence  of  a  rebellion  in 
the  south  and  east  parts  of  Hawaii,  was  obliged  to  return  thither. 

When  he  had  overcome  those  who  had  rebelled,  he  finished  the  heiau, 
dedicated  it  to  Tairi,  his  god  of  war,  and  then  proceeded  to  the 
conquest  of  Oahu.  Its  shape  is  an  irregular  parallelogram,  224  feet 
long,  and  100  wide.  The  walls,  though  built  of  loose  stones,  were 
solid  and  compact.  At  both  ends,  and  on  the  side  next  the  mountains, 
they  were  twenty  feet  high,  twelve  feet  thick  at  the  bottom,  but  nar- 
rowed in  gradually  towards  the  top,  where  a  course  of  smooth  stones, 
six  feet  wide,  formed  a  pleasant  walk.  The  walls  next  the  sea  were 
not  more  than  seven  or  eight  feet  high,  and  were  proportionally  wide. 
The  entrance  to  the  temple  is  by  a  narrow  passage  between  two  high 
walls. 

HUMAN   SACRIFICES. 

As  I  passed  along  this  avenue,  an  involuntary  shuddering  seized  me, 
on  reflecting  how  often  it  had  been  trodden  by  the  feet  of  those  who 
relentlessly  bore  the  murdered  body  of  the  human  victim  an  offering 
to  their  cruel  idols. 

The  upper  terrace  within  the  area  was  spacious,  and  much  better 
finished  than  the  lower  ones.  It  was  paved  with  various  flat  smooth 
stones,  brought  from  a  considerable  distance. 


72 

At  the  south  end  was  a  kind  of  inner  court,  which  might  be  called 
the  sanctum  sanctorum  of  the  temple,  where  the  principal  idol  used  to 
stand,  surrounded  by  a  number  of  images  of  inferior  deities. 

WHERE    THE    ORACLE    WORKED. 

In  the  centre  of  this  inner  court  was  the  place  where  the  anu  was 
erected,  which  was  a  lofty  frame  of  wicker-work,  in  shape  something 
like  an  obelisk,  hollow,  and  four  or  five  feet  square  at  the  bottom. 
Within  this  the  priest  stood,  as  the  organ  of  communication  from  the 
god,  whenever  the  king  came  to  inquire  his  will;  for  his  principal  god 
was  also  his  oracle,  and  when  it  was  to  be  consulted,  the  king,  accom- 
panied by  two  or  three  attendants,  proceeded  to  the  door  of  the  inner 
temple,  and  standing  immediately  before  the  obelisk,  inquired  respect- 
ing the  declaration  of  war,  the  conclusion  of  peace,  or  any  other  affair 
of  importance.  The  answer  was  given  by  the  priest  in  a  distinct  and 
audible  voice,  though,  like  that  of  other  oracles,  it  was  frequently 
very  ambiguous.  On  the  return  of  the  king,  the  answer  he  had 
received  was  publicly  proclaimed,  and  generally  acted  upon. 

I  have  frequently  asked  the  people,  whether,  on  these  occasions, 
there  was  not  some  previous  agreement  between  the  king  and  the 
priest.  They  generally  answered  in  the  negative,  or  said  they  did  not 
know. 

On  the  outside,  near  the  entrance  to  the  inner  court,  was  the 
place  of  the  rere  (altar,)  on  which  human  and  other  sacrifices  were 
offered.  The  remains  of  one  of  the  pillars  that  supported  it  were 
pointed  out  by  the  natives,  and  the  pavement  around  was  strewed 
with  bones  of  men  and  animals,  the  mouldering  remains  of  those 
numerous  offerings  once  presented  there. 

THE    KING'S    SACRED    HOUSE. 

About  the  centre  of  the  terrace  was  the  spot  where  the  king's 
sacred  house  stood,  in  which  he  resided  during  the  season  of  strict 
tabu,  and  at  the  north  end,  the  place  occupied  by  the  houses  of 
priests,  who,  with  the  exception  of  the  king,  were  the  only  persons 
permitted  to  dwell  within  the  sacred  enclosure. 

Holes  were  seen  on  the  walls,  all  around  this,  as  well  as  the  lower 
terraces,  where  wooden  idols  of  varied  size  and  shape  formerly  stood, 
casting  their  hideous  stare  in  every  direction.  Tairi,  or  Kukairimoku, 
a  large  wooden  idol,  crowned  with  a  helmet,  and  covered  with  red 
feathers,  the  favourite  war-god  of  Tamehameha,  was  the  principal 
idol.  To  him  the  heiau  was  dedicated,  and  for  his  occasional  resi- 
dence it  was  built. 


73 

HUMAN    VICTIMS. 

On  the  day  in  which  he  was  brought  within  its  precincts,  vast 
offerings  of  fruit,  hogs,  and  dogs,  were  presented,  and  no  less  than 
eleven  human  victims  immolated  on  its  altars.  And,  although  the 
huge  pile  now  resembles  a  dismantled  fortress,  whose  frown  no  longer 
strikes  terror  through  the  surrounding  country,  yet  it  is  impossible 
to  walk  over  such  a  golgotha,  or  contemplate  a  spot  which  must 
often  have  resembled  a  pandemonium  more  than  any  thing  on  earth, 
without  a  strong  feeling  of  horror  at  the  recollection  of  the  bloody 
and  infernal  rites  so  frequently  practised  within  its  walls. 

Thanks  be  to  God,  the  idols  are  destroyed!  Thanks  to  his  name, 
the  glorious  gospel  of  his  Son,  who  was  manifested  to  destroy  the 
works  of  the  devil,  has  reached  these  heretofore  desolate  shores! 
May  the  Holy  Spirit  make  it  the  ' '  savour  of  life  unto  life ' '  to  the 
remnant  of  the  people! 

Leaving  Bukohola,  accompanied  by  some  natives,  I  visited  Mairi- 
kini,  another  heiau,  a  few  hundred  yards  nearer  the  shore.  It  was 
nearly  equal  in  its  dimensions  to  that  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  but 
inferior  in  every  other  respect.  It  appeared  to  have  been  literally 
crowded  with  idols,  but  no  human  sacrifices  were  offered  to  any  of 
its  gods. 

A   TRIP   PROM   KAWAIHAE   TO   KAILUA. 

On  returning  to  Mr.  Young's  house,  I  was  informed  that  the  vessel 
would  sail  that  evening  for  Kairua,  a  circumstance  I  much  regretted, 
as  I  hoped  to  spend  the  sabbath  at  Towaihae.  Mr.  Young,  however, 
collected  his  family  and  neighbours  together,  to  the  number  of  sixty. 
A  short  exhortation  was  given,  and  followed  by  prayer;  after  which 
I  took  leave  of  my  kind  host,  repaired  on  board,  and  the  vessel 
soon  after  got  under  way. 

It  was  daylight  the  next  morning  before  we  had  left  Towaihae 
bay,  as  the  wind  during  the  night  had  been  very  light.  The  sea 
breeze  had,  however,  set  in  early,  and  carried  us  along  a  rugged  and 
barren  shore  of  lava  towards  Kairua,  which  is  distant  from  Towaihae 
about  thirty  miles. 

It  being  the  sabbath,  I  preached  on  deck  in  the  afternoon  from 
Mark  iv.  38,  39.  to  a  congregation  of  about  150  natives,  including  the 
greater  part  of  the  crew.  Many  of  the  people  were  afterwards 
observed  sitting  together  in  small  groups,  and  conversing  about  what 
they  had  heard,  though  some  were  inclined  to  make  sport  of  it. 

In  the  evening  we  were  opposite  Laemano  (Shark's  Point,)  but 
strong  westerly  currents  prevented  our  making  much   progress. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th,  we  found  ourselves  becalmed  to  the 
southward   of   Kairua,    several    leagues   from   the    shore.      The    snow- 


74 

covered  tops  of  the  mountains  were  distinctly  seen  at  sunrise,  but 
they  soon  after  became  enveloped  in  clouds,  and  continued  so  through 
the  day.  A  light  breeze  carried  the  vessel  towards  the  land,  and  at 
nine  a.  m.  the  boat  was  lowered  down,  and  I  proceeded  to  the  shore. 
On  my  way  I  met  the  governor  Kuakini,  and  Messrs.  Goodrich  and 
Harwood,  who  were  coming  off  in  the  governor's  boat.  We  returned 
together  to  the  shore,  where  I  was  gladly  received  by  Messrs.  Thurston 
and  Bishop,  whom  I  found  waiting  to  proceed  on  the  tour  of  the 
island. 

STROLLING   MUSICIANS   AND   DANCERS   DESCRIBED. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  party  of  strolling  musicians  and  dancers  arrived 
at  Kairua.  About  four  o'clock  they  came,  followed  by  crowds  of 
people,  and  arranged  themselves  on  a  fine  sandy  beach,  in  front  of 
one  of  the  governor's  houses,  where  they  exhibited  a  native  dance, 
called  hura  araapapa. 

The  five  musicians  first  seated  themselves  in  a  line  on  the  ground, 
and  spread  a  piece  of  folded  cloth  on  the  sand  before  them.  Their 
instrument  was  a  large  calabash,  or  rather  two,  one  of  an  oval  shape 
about  three  feet  high,  the  other  perfectly  round,  very  neatly  fastened 
to  it,  having  also  an  aperture  about  three  inches  in  diameter  at  the 
top. 

Each  musician  held  his  instrument  before  him  with  both  hands,  and 
produced  his  music  by  striking  it  on  the  ground,  where  he  had  laid 
the  piece  of  cloth,  and  beating  it  with  his  fingers,  or  the  palms  of 
his  hands.  As  soon  as  they  began  to  sound  their  calabashes,  the 
dancer,  a  young  man,  about  the  middle  stature,  advanced  through  the 
opening  crowd.  His  jet-black  hair  hung  in  loose  and  flowing  ringlets 
down  his  naked  shoulders;  his  necklace  was  made  of  a  vast  number 
of  strings  of  nicely  braided  human  hair,  tied  together  behind,  while  a 
paraoa  (an  ornament  made  of  a  whale's  tooth)  hung  pendent  from 
it  on  his  breast;  his  wrists  were  ornamented  with  bracelets,  formed 
of  polished  tusks  of  the  hog,  and  his  ancles  with  loose  buskins,  thickly 
set  with  dog's  teeth,  the  rattle  of  which,  during  the  dance,  kept  time 
with  the  music  of  the  calabash  drum.  A  beautiful  yellow  tapa  was 
tastefully  fastened  round  his  loins,  reaching  to  his  knees.  He  began 
his  dance  in  front  of  the  musicians,  and  moved  forwards  and  back- 
wards, across  the  area,  occasionally  chanting  the  achievements  of 
former  kings  of  Hawaii.  The  governor  sat  at  the  end  of  the  ring, 
opposite  to  the  musicians,  and  appeared  gratified  with  the  perfor- 
mance, which  continued  until  the  evening. 

ROUTE    OP    EXPLORATION    DECIDED    UPON. 
July   15th.     Our   whole    number  being   now  together   at   the   place 
where  we  had  previously  agreed  to  commence  our  tour,  we  no  longer 


76 

delayed  to  decide  on  the  route  we  should  take,  and  the  manner  in 
which  we  should  endeavour  to  accomplish  the  objects  of  our  visit. 

Anxious  to  gain  a  thorough  acquaintance  with  the  circumstances 
of  the  people,  and  their  disposition  relative  to  missionary  operations, 
we  agreed  to  travel  on  foot  from  Karma,  through  the  villages  on 
the  southern  shore,  to  pass  round  the  south  point,  and  continue  along 
the  south-east  shore,  till  we  should  arrive  at  the  path  leading  to  the 
great  volcano,  situated  at  the  foot  of  Mouna  Roa,  about  25  miles 
distant  from  the  sea,  which  we  thought  it  improper  to  pass  unnoticed. 

We  proposed,  after  visiting  the  volcano,  either  to  descend  to  the 
shore  and  travel  along  the  coast  through  the  division  of  Puna,  or 
across  the  interior  to  the  division  of  Hiro,  as  circumstances  might 
then  render  most  expedient. 

From  Waiakea  in  Hiro,  we  agreed  to  proceed  along  the  eastern 
shore,  till  an  opportunity  should  offer  for  part  of  our  number  to  cross 
over  the  mountains  of  Kohala,  while  the  rest  should  travel  along  the 
shore,  round  the  north  point  of  the  island,  and  meet  their  companions 
at  Towaihae,  whence  they  could  return  direct  to  Oahu,  if  a  means 
of  conveyance  should  present  itself,  or  to  Kairua,  and  there  wait  for 
a  vessel. 

The  plan  of  our  tour  being  thus  arranged,  we  were  anxious  to 
receive  the  aid  of  the  governor  in  the  execution  of  it.  Mr.  Thurston 
and  myself  were  therefore  chosen  to  wait  upon  him  in  the  afternoon, 
to  make  him  acquainted  with  our  wishes,  and  solicit  his  assistance 
for  their  accomplishment. 

A    "PEOPLE'S   FORT." 

I  afterwards  accompanied  Mr.  Thurston  to  the  well,  where  we 
found  the  natives  boring  the  hard  rocks  of  lava  which  they  intended 
to  blast.  We  encouraged  them  in  their  laborious  work,  and  then 
visited  the  ruins  of  an  old  military  fortification,  formerly  belonging 
to  the  makaainana,  (common  people,  as  distinguished  from  the  aris- 
tocracy, or  reigning  chiefs). 

In  those  periods  of  their  history,  during  which  the  island  of  Hawaii 
was  divided  into  a  number  of  independent  governments  under  dif- 
ferent chiefs,  which  were  frequent  prior  to  the  reign  of  Taraiopu,  who 
was  king  at  the  time  of  its  discovery  by  Captain  Cook;  this  had 
been  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 

All  that  at  present  remains  is  part  of  the  wall,  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  feet  high,  and  fourteen  feet  thick  at  the  bottom,  built  of  lava, 
and  apparently  entire.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  wall  are  apertures 
resembling  embrasures;  but  they  could  not  have  been  designed  for 
cannon,  that  being  an  engine  of  war  with  which  the  natives  have  but 
recently  become  acquainted. 


78 

The  part  of  the  wall  now  standing,  is  near  the  mouth  of  Raniakea, 
the  spacious  cavern  already  mentioned,  which  formed  a  valuable 
appendage  to  the  fort.  In  this  cavern,  children  and  aged  persons 
were  placed  for  security  during  an  assault  or  sally  from  the  fort, 
and  sometimes  the  wives  of  the  warriors  also,  when  they  did  not 
accompany  their  husbands  to  the  battle. 

The  fortification  was  probably  extensive,  as  traces  of  the  ancient 
walls  are  discoverable  in  several  places;  but  what  were  its  original 
dimensions,  the  natives  who  were  with  us  could  not  tell.  They  as- 
serted, however,  that  the  cavern,  if  not  the  fort  also,  was  formerly 
surrounded  by  a  strong  palisade. 

ASSISTANCE   FROM   THE    GOVERNOR. 

In  the  afternoon  we  waited  on  the  governor,  according  to  appoint- 
ment; made  him  acquainted  with  our  arrangements,  and  solicited  the 
accommodation  of  a  boat,  or  canoe,  to  carry  our  baggage,  and  a  man 
acquainted  with  the  island,  to  act  as  a  guide,  and  to  procure  provi- 
sions, offering  him,  at  the  same  time,  any  remuneration  he  might  re- 
quire for  such  assistance.  After  inquiring  what  baggage  we  intended 
to  take,  and  how  long  we  expected  to  be  absent  from  Kairua,  he 
generously  offered  to  send  a  canoe  as  far  as  it  could  go  with  safety, 
and  also  to  furnish  a  guide  for  the  whole  tour  without  any  recom- 
pense whatever.  He  recommended  that  we  should  take  a  few  articles 
for  barter,  as,  occasionally,  we  might  perhaps  be  obliged  to  purchase 
our  food,  or  hire  men  to  carry  our  baggage.  After  thanking  him 
for  his  kindness,  we  returned. 

MORE   MUSIC  AND   DANCING. 

About  four  o  'clock  in  the  afternoon,  another  party  of  musicians 
and  dancers,  followed  by  multitudes  of  people,  took  their  station 
nearly  on  the  spot  occupied  yesterday  by  those  from  Kau.  The  musi- 
cians, seven  in  number,  seated  themselves  on  the  sand;  a  curiously 
carved  drum,  made  by  hollowing  out  a  solid  piece  of  wood,  and  cov- 
ering the  top  with  shark's  skin,  was  placed  before  each,  which  they 
beat  with  the  palm  or  fingers  of  their  right  hand.  A  neat  little  drum, 
made  of  the  shell  of  a  large  cocoa-nut,  was  also  fixed  on  the  knee, 
by  the  side  of  the  large  drum,  and  beat  with  a  small  stick  held  in  the 
left  hand. 

When  the  musicians  had  arranged  themselves  in  a  line,  across'  the 
beach,  and  a  bustling  man,  who  appeared  to  be  master  of  the  cere- 
monies, had,  with  a  large  branch  of  a  cocoa-nut  tree,  cleared  a  circle 
of  considerable  extent,  two  interesting  little  children,  (a  boy  and  a 
girl,)  apparently  about  nine  years  of  age,  came  forward,  habited  in  the 


79 

dancing  costume  of  the  country,  with  garlands  of  flowers  on  their 
heads,  wreaths  around  their  necks,  bracelets  on  their  wrists,  and 
buskins  on  their  ankles. 

When  they  had  reached  the  centre  of  the  ring,  they  commenced 
their  dance  to  the  music  of  the  drums;  cantilating,  alternately  with 
the  musicians,  a  song  in  honour  of  some  ancient  of  Hawaii. 


C.T^-sa 


KFAIOK1, 
Governor  of  Hawaii. 

The  governor  of  the  island  was  present,  accompanied,  as  it  is  cus- 
tomary for  every  chieftain  of  distinction  to  be  on  public  occasions,  by 
a  retinue  of  favourite  chiefs  and  attendants. 


THE    GOVERNOR'S    DRESS   AND   COURT   ETIQUETTE. 

Having  almost  entirely  laid  aside  the  native  costume,  and  adopted 
that  of  the  foreigners  who  visit  the  islands,  he  appeared  on  this  occa- 
sion in  a  light  European  dress,  and  sat  on  a  Canton-made  arm  chair,, 
opposite  the  dancers,  during  the  whole  exhibition. 

A  servant,  with  a  light  kihei  of  painted  native  cloth  thrown  over 
his  shoulder,  stood  behind  his  chair,  holding  a  highly  polished   spit- 


80 

toon,  made  of  the  beautifully  brown  wood  of  the  cordia  in  one  hand, 
and  in  the  other  a  handsome  kahiri,  an  elastic  rod,  three  or  four  feet 
long,  having  the  shining  feathers  of  the  tropie-bird  tastefully  fastened 
round  the  upper  end,  with  which  he  fanned  away  the  flies  from  the 
person  of  his  master. 

The  beach  was  crowded  with  spectators,  and  the  exhibition  kept  up 
with  great  spirit,  till  the  overspreading  shades  of  evening  put  an  end 
to  their  mirth,  and  afforded  a  respite  to  the  poor  children,  whose  little 
limbs  must  have  been  very  much  fatigued  by  two  hours  of  constant 
exercise. 

DANCING    EXCLUDED    RELIGION. 

We  were  anxious  to  address  the  multitude  on  the  subject  of  reli- 
gion before  they  should  disperse;  but  so  intent  were  they  on  their 
amusement,  that  they  could  not  have  been  diverted  from  it.  I  suc- 
ceeded, however,  in  taking  a  sketch  of  the  novel  assemblage,  in  which, 
a  youth,  who  had  climbed  a  high  pole,  (that,  looking  over  the  heads 
of  the  throng  who  surrounded  the  dancers,  he  might  witness  the  scene,) 
formed  a  conspicuous  object. 

A  messenger  now  invited  us  to  sup  with  the  governor,  and  we  soon 
after  joined  him  and  his  friends  around  his  hospitable  board. 

DINNER    ACCOMPANIED    BY    MINSTRELSY. 

Our  repast  was  not  accompanied  by  the  gladsome  sound  of  "harp 
in  hall"  or  "aged  minstrel's  flowing  lay,"  yet  it  was  enlivened  by 
an  interesting  youthful  bard,  twelve  or  fourteen  years  of  age,  who 
was  seated  on  the  ground  in  the  large  room  in  which  we  were  assem- 
bled, and  who,  during  the  supper,  sung,  in  a  monotonous  but  pleasing 
strain,  the  deeds  of  former  chiefs,  ancestors  of  our  host.  His  fingers 
swept  no  "classic  lyre,"  but  beat,  in  a  manner  responsive  to  his  song, 
a  rustic  little  drum,  formed  of  a  calabash,  beautifully  stained,  and 
covered  at  the  head  with  a  piece  of  shark  skin. 

The  governor  and  his  friends  were  evidently  pleased  with  his  lay, 
and  the  youth  seemed  repaid  by  their  approbation. 

MEASURING   HUALALAI — PREPARING   FOR   THE    TRIP. 

In  the  morning  of  the  16th,  Messrs.  Goodrich  and  Harwood  en- 
deavoured to  ascertain  the  height  of  Mouna  Huararai,  by  means  of 
two  observations  at  the  extremity  of  a  base  line  of  2230  feet.  They 
made  the  height  of  the  mountain  to  be  7822  feet;  but  their  quadrant 
being  an  inferior  one,  we  thought  the  height  of  the  mountain  greater 
than  that  given  above,  though  it  is  never  covered  with  snow. 

The  accounts  the  natives  gave  us  of  the  roads  we  were  to  travel, 
and  the  effects  the  short  journeys  already  made  had  produced  on  our 


81 

shoes,  convinced  us  that  those  we  had  brought  with  us  would  be  worn 
out  before  we  had  proceeded  even  half  way  round  the  island.  We 
therefore  provided  a  substitute,  by  procuring  a  tough  bull's  hide  from 
the  governor's  store-house,  and  making  ourselves  rude  sandals;  which 
we  afterwards  found  very  serviceable,  as  they  enabled  us  to  travel 
over  large  tracts  of  lava  with  much  more  expedition  and  comfort 
than  we  could  possibly  have  done  without  them. 

RELIGIOUS   TRUTHS    SUBSTITUTED    FOR    THE    HULA. 

At  four  p.  m.  the  musicians  from  Kau  again  collected  on  the  beach, 
and  the  dancer  commenced  a  hura,  similar  to  that  exhibited  on  Mon- 
day evening.  We  had  previously  appointed  a  religious  meeting  for 
this  evening,  and,  about  an  hour  before  sun-set,  proposed  to  the 
governor  to  hold  it  on  the  beach,  where  the  people  were  already 
assembled.  He  approved,  and  followed  us  to  the  edge  of  the  circle, 
where  we  took  our  station,  opposite  the  musicians. 

At  the  governor's  request  the  music  ceased,  and  the  dancer  came 
and  sat  down  just  in  front  of  us.  We  sang  a  hymn;  I  then  offered 
up  a  short  prayer,  and  afterwards  addressed  the  people  from  Acts 
xiv.  15;  "And  preach  unto  you,  that  ye  should  turn  from  these  vani- 
ties unto  the  living  God,  which  made  heaven  and  earth,  and  the  sea, 
and  all  things  that  are  therein."  The  multitude  collected  was  from 
different  and  distant  parts  of  the  island,  and  appeared  to  listen  with 
attention  to  the  word  spoken.  To  many,  it  was  doubtless  the  first 
time  they  had  heard  of  the  name  of  Jehovah,  or  of  Jesus  Christ  his 
Son,  and  we  afterwards  heard  them  conversing  among  themselves 
about  the  truths  they  had  heard. 

DISCUSSIONS    WITH    THE    GOVERNOR. 

After  supper  and  family  worship  at  the  governor's,  I  spent  the 
evening  in  conversation  with  him,  partly  on  traditions  respecting 
some  remarkable  places  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kairua,  and  partly 
on  the  subject  of  religion.  I  spoke  on  the  desirableness  of  his  building 
a  place  for  the  public  worship  of  the  true  God,  and  the  advantages 
of  keeping  the  Sabbath  as  a  day  of  holy  rest,  recommending  him  to 
set  the  common  people  a  good  example,  and  use  his  influence  to  induce 
them  to  attend  j>ublic  service  on  the  Lord's  day. 

He  said  it  was  his  intention  to  build  a  church  by  and  by,  when 
the  maka-ainana  should  become  interested  in  these  things,  and  when 
they  should  have  a  missionary  to  reside  permanently  with  them;  but 
that  at  present  the  people  at  Kairua  were  quite  indifferent  to  all 
religion. 

6 


82 


ROYAL   WOMEN   MAKING  TAPA. 


For  several  days  past  we  have  observed  many  of  the  people  bring- 
ing home  from  their  plantations  bundles  of  young  wauti,  (a  variety 
of  the  morus  papyrifera,)  from  which  we  infer  that  this  is  the  season 
for  cloth-making  in  this  part  of  the  island. 

This  morning,  the  17th,  we  perceived  Keoua,  the  governor's  wife, 
and  her  female  attendants,  with  about  forty  other  women,  under  the 
pleasant  shade  of  a  beautiful  clump  of  cordia  or  kou  trees,  employed 
in  stripping  off  the  bark  from  bundles  of  wauti  sticks,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  it  into  cloth. 

The  sticks  were  generally  from  six  to  ten  feet  long,  and  about  an 
inch  in  diameter  at  the  thickest  end.  They  first  cut  the  bark,  the 
whole  length  of  the  stick,  with  a  sharp  serrated  shell,  and  having 
carefully  peeled  it  off,  rolled  it  into  small  coils,  the  inner  bark  being 
outside.    In  this  state  it  is  left  some  time,  to  make  it  flat  and  smooth. 

Keoua  not  only  worked  herself,  but  appeared  to  take  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  whole  party.  Whenever  a  fine  piece  of  bark  was 
found,  it  was  shewn  to  her,  and  put  aside  to  be  manufactured  into 
wairiirii,  or  some  other  particular  cloth.  With  lively  chat  and  cheer- 
ful song,  they  appeared  to  beguile  the  hours  of  labour  until  noon, 
when  having  finished  their  work,  they  repaired  to  their  dwellings. 

CULTIVATION  OF  TAPA  PLANTS. 

The  wauti  plant,  of  which  the  greater  part  of  the  cloth  on  this  side 
of  the  island  is  made,  is  cultivated  with  much  care  in  their  gardens 
of  sugar-cane,  plantain,  &c.  and  whole  plantations  are  sometimes  de- 
voted exclusively  to  its  growth.  Slips  about  a  foot  long  are  planted 
nearly  two  feet  apart,  in  long  rows,  four  or  six  feet  asunder.  Two 
or  three  shoots  rise  from  most  of  the  slips,  and  grow  till  they  are  six 
or  twelve  feet  high,  according  to  the  richness  of  the  soil,  or  the  kind 
of  cloth  for  which  they  are  intended.  Any  small  branches  that  may 
sprout  out  from  the  side  of  the  long  shoot,  are  carefully  plucked  off, 
and  sometimes  the  bud  at  the  top  of  the  plant  is  pulled  out,  to  cause 
an  increase  in  its  size. 

Occasionally  they  are  two  years  growing,  and  seldom  reach  the  size 
at  which  they  are  fit  for  use,  in  less  than  twelve  or  even  eighteen 
months,  when  they  are  cut  off  near  the  ground,  the  old  roots  being 
left,  to  produce  shoots  another  year. 

The  bark,  when  stripped  off  and  rolled  up,  as  described  above,  is 
left  several  days;  when,  on  being  unrolled,  it  appears  quite  flat.  The 
outer  bark  is  then  taken  off,  generally  by  scraping  it  with  a  large 
shell,  and  the  inner  bark,  of  which  the  cloth  is  made,  is  occasionally 
laid  in  water,  to  extract  the  resinous  substances  it  may  contain.  Each 
piece  of  bark  is  then  taken  singly,  and  laid  across  a  piece  of  wood, 


83 

twelve  or  eighteen  feet  long,  six  inches  square,  smooth  on  the  top, 
but  having  a  groove  on  the  under  side,  and  is  beaten  with  a  square 
mallet  of  hard  heavy  wood,  about  a  foot  in  length,  and  two  inches 
wide;  three  sides  are  carved  in  grooves  or  ribs,  the  other  into  squares, 
in  order  that  one  mallet  may  answer  for  the  different  kinds  of  cloth 
they  are  accustomed  to  make. 

When  they  have  beaten  the  bark  till  it  is  spread  out  nine  inches 
or  a  foot  wide,  it  is  either  dried  and  reserved  for  future  use,  or 
wrapped  up  in  leaves,  laid  by  for  a  day  or  two,  and  then  beaten  out 
afresh  till  the  required  extent  and  texture  are  produced. 

DIFFERENT    KINDS    OF    TAPA. 

Various  sorts  of  cloth  are  made  with  this  plant,  some  remarkably 
fine  and  even;  that  which  has  been  beaten  with  a  mallet,  carved  in 
different  patterns,  much  resembles  muslin  at  first  sight,  while  that 
made  with  a  grooved  mallet  appears,  until  closely  examined,  some- 
thing like  dimity.  There  are  other  kinds,  very  thick  and  tough, 
which  look  like  wash-leather;  but  the  most  common  sort  is  the  pau, 
worn  round  the  waists  of  the  females.  To  make  this,  a  piece  of 
bark  is  beaten  till  it  is  four  yards  long,  and  more  than  a  yard  wide, 
and  of  an  equal  texture  throughout. 

Sometimes  two  or  three  pieces  of  bark  are  necessary  to  make  one 
piece  of  cloth.  Five  of  these  pieces,  when  finished,  are  spread  out 
one  upon  the  other,  and  fastened  together  at  one  end.  These  five 
pieces  make  only  one  pau.  The  inside  pieces  are  usually  white,  or 
yellow;  but  the  outside  piece  is  always  stained,  or  painted,  with  vege- 
table dyes  of  various  colours. 

No  gum  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  the  pau,  except  that  con- 
tained in  the  bark,  yet  the  fibres  adhere  firmly  together.  Those 
painted  red  or  yellow,  &c.  are  sometimes  rubbed  over  with  a  vegetable 
oil,  in  which  chips  of  sandal  wood,  or  the  seeds  of  the  pandanus 
odorotissima,  have  been  steeped.  This  is  designed  to  perfume  the 
cloth,  and  render  is  impervious  to  wet;  it  is,  however,  less  durable 
than  the  common  pau. 

SLEEPING    AND    CLOTHING    TAPAS. 

There  is  another  kind  of  cloth,  called  tapa  moe,  (sleeping  cloth,) 
made  principally  for  the  chiefs,  who  use  it  to  wrap  themselves  in  at 
night,  while  they  sleep.  It  is  generally  three  or  four  yards  square, 
very  thick,  being  formed  of  several  layers  of  common  tapa,  cemented 
with  gum,  and  beaten  with  a  grooved  mallet  till  they  are  closely  inter- 
woven. The  colour  is  various,  either  white,  yellow,  brown,  or  black, 
according  to  the  fancy  of  its  owner. 

Nearly  resembling  the  tapa  moe  is  the  kihei,  only  it  is  both  thinner 


84 

and  smaller.  It  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  and  is  about  the  size 
of  a  large  shawl,  or  counterpane.  Sometimes  it  is  brown,  but  more 
frequently  white  or  yellow,  intermixed  with  red  and  black.  It  ia 
generally  worn  by  the  men,  thrown  loosely  over  one  shoulder,  passed 
under  the  opposite  arm,  and  tied  in  front,  or  on  the  other  shoulder. 

TAPAS    FOR    PA-US    AND    MALOS. 

But  the  best  kind  of  cloth  maae  with  the  cultivated  plant  is  the 
wairiirii,  which  is  made  into  paus  for  the  females,  and  maros  for 
the  men. 

The  paus  are  generally  four  yards  long,  and  about  one  yard  wide, 
very  thick,  beautifully  painted  with  brilliant  red,  yellow,  and  black 
colours,  and  covered  over  with  a  fii^e  gum  and  resinous  varnish,  which 
not  only  preserves  the  colours,  but  renders  the  cloth  impervious  and 
durable.  The  maros  are  about  a  foot  wide,  and  three  or  four  yards 
long. 

The  colours  they  employ  are  procured  from  the  leaves,  bark,  ber- 
ries, or  roots  of  indigenous  plants,  and  require  much  skill  in  their 
preparation. 

One  or  two  kinds  of  earth  are  also  used  in  mixing  the  darker 
colours.  Since  foreigners  have  visited  them,  they  have  found,  upon 
trial,  that  our  colours  are  better  than  theirs,  and  the  paint  they 
purchase  from  ships  has  superseded  in  a  great  degree  the  native 
colours,  in  the  painting  of  all  the  most  valuable  kinds  of  cloth. 

MANNER  OF  PAINTING  TAPAS. 

Their  manner  of  painting  is  ingenious.  They  cut  the  pattern  they 
intend  to  stamp  on  their  cloth,  on  the  inner  side  of  a  narrow  piece 
of  bamboo,  spread  their  cloth  before  them  on  a  board,  and  having 
their  colours  properly  mixed,  in  a  calabash  by  their  side,  dip  the 
point  of  the  bamboo,  which  they  hold  in  their  right  hand,  into  the 
paint,  strike  it  against  the  edge  of  the  calabash,  place  it  on  the  right 
or  left  side  of  the  cloth,  and  press  it  down  with  the  fingers  of  the 
left  hand.  The  pattern  is  dipped  in  the  paint  after  every  impres- 
sion, which  is  continued  till  the  cloth  is  marked  quite  across,  when  it 
is  moved  on  the  board,  and  the  same  repeated  till  it  is  finished. 

The  tapa  in  general  lasts  but  a  little  while,  compared  with  any  kind 
of  wove  cloth,  yet  if  kept  free  from  wet,  which  causes  it  to  rend  like 
paper,  some  kinds  may  be  worn  a  considerable  time.  The  fabrica- 
tion of  it  shews  both  invention  and  industry;  and  whether  we  con- 
sider its  different  textures,  its  varied  and  regular  patterns,  its  beau- 
tiful colours,  so  admirably  preserved  by  means  of  the  varnish,  we  are 
at  once  convinced,  that  the  people  who  manufacture  it  are  neither 
deficient  in  taste,   nor  incapable   of  receiving  the   improvements   of 


85 

civilized  society.  Specimens  of  the  principal  kinds  of  native  cloth, 
manufactured  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  may  be  seen  in  the  Missionary 
Museum,   Austin   Friars. 

During  the  forenoon,  Mr.  Harwood  made  an  auger,  to  aid  the 
well-diggers  in  boring  the  rocks.  I  walked  with  Mr.  Thurston  to 
see  what  progress  they  had  made,  and  to  encourage  them  to  persevere. 
The  rocks  they  said  were  hard,  and  their  progress  slow,  yet  they  were 
not  discouraged,  but  hoped  to  find  the  work  easier  as  they  descended. 

RELIGIOUS    DISCUSSION    WITH    GOVERNOR    KUAKINI. 

After  dinner,  the  governor  entered  freely  into  conversation  on  reli- 
gious subjects,  particularly  respecting  the  resurrection  of  the  body, 
the  destruction  of  the  heavens  and  the  earth  at  the  last  day,  and 
the  final  judgment. 

After  listening  attentively  to  what  was  said  upon  these  subjects,  he 
inquired  about  the  locality  of  heaven  and  hell. 

He  was  told  that  we  did  not  know  where  the  one  or  the  other  was 
situated,  as  none  had  ever  returned  from  either,  to  tell  mankind 
about  them;  and  we  only  know,  that  there  is  a  place  called  heaven, 
where  God  makes  glorious  manifestations  of  his  perfections,  and 
where  all  good  men  are  perfectly  happy;  and  that  there  is  a  place 
where  wicked  men  are  shut  up  in  darkness,  and  endure  endless  misery. 

He  then  said,  "How  do  you  know  these  things?"  I  asked  for  his 
bible,  and  translated  the  passages  which  inculcate  the  doctrine  of  the 
resurrection,  &c.  and  told  him  it  was  from  that  book  we  obtained  all 
our  knowledge  of  these  things;  and  that  it  was  the  contents  of  that 
book  which  we  had  come  to  teach  the  people  of  Hawaii. 

THE   GOVERNOR  ASKS   EMBARRASSING   QUESTIONS. 

He  then  asked  if  all  the  people  in  our  native  countries  were 
acquainted  with  the  bible. 

I  answered,  that  from  the  abundant  means  of  instruction  enjoyed 
there,  the  greater  portion  of  the  people  had  either  read  the  book, 
or  had  in  some  other  way  become  acquainted  with  its  principal  con- 
tents. 

He  then  said,  How  is  it  that  such  numbers  of  them  swear,  get 
intoxicated,  and  do  so  many  things  prohibited  in  that  book? 

He  was  told,  that  there  was  a  vast  difference  between  knowing 
the  word  of  God,  and  obeying  it;  and  that  it  was  most  likely,  those 
persons  knew  their  conduct  was  displeasing  to  God,  yet  persisted 
in  it,  because  agreeable  to  their  corrupt  inclinations. 

He  asked  if  God  would  not  be  angry  with  us  for  troubling  him  so 
frequently  with  our  prayers?  If  he  was  like  man,  he  said,  he  wafl 
sure  he  would. 


86 

I  replied,  that  God  was  always  "waiting  to  be  gracious,"  more 
ready  to  hear  than  we  were  to  pray;  that  indeed  he  was  not  like 
man,  or  his  patience  would  have  been  exhausted  long  ago  by  the 
wickedness  of  men;  but  that  he  continued  exercising  long-suffering 
and  forbearance  towards  sinners,  that  they  might  turn  from  their 
wickedness  and  live. 

THE    TRIP    BEGINS. 

We  supped  with  the  governor  as  usual,  and,  after  family  worship 
with  his  household,  prepared  our  baggage  for  our  journey,  some  of 
which  we  left  to  be  forwarded  by  the  Ainoa  to  Waiakea,  a  district  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  island. 

About  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  on  the  18th,  we  waited  on  the 
governor  to  express  our  grateful  sense  of  the  generous  hospitality  we 
had  experienced  from  him,  during  our  protracted  stay  at  Kairua. 
We  also  thanked  him  for  the  friendly  advice  he  had  given,  and  the 
acceptable  aid  he  had  so  kindly  furnished  for  the  prosecution  of  our 
journey,  and  informed  him  that  we  were  ready  to  proceed.  He  had 
before  given  instructions  to  our  guide.  He  now  directed  the  man  who 
was  going  in  the  canoe,  to  take  care  of  our  things,  and  told  us  he 
would  send  some  men  to  carry  our  baggage  by  land,  as  far  as  Keara- 
ke'kua.  We  then  took  leave  of  him,  and  proceeded  on  our  journey. 
Messrs.  Bishop  and  Harwood  went  in  the  canoe,  the  rest  of  our  num- 
ber travelled  on  foot. 

MAKOA,   THE   GUIDE,  DESCRIBED. 

Our  guide,  Makoa,  who  had  been  the  king's  messenger  many 
years,  and  was  well  acquainted  with  the  island,  led  the  way.  He 
was  rather  a  singular  looking  little  man,  between  forty  and  fifty 
years  of  age.  A  thick  tuft  of  jet  black  curling  hair  shaded  his 
wrinkled  forehead,  and  a  long  bunch  of  the  same  kind  hung  down 
behind  each  of  his  ears.  The  rest  of  his  head  was  cropped  as  short 
as  shears  could  make  it.  His  small  black  eyes  were  ornamented 
with  tataued  vandyke  semicircles. 

Two  goats,  impressed  in  the  same  indelible  manner,  stood  rampant 
over  each  of  his  brows;  one,  like  the  supporter  of  a  coat  of  arms,  was 
fixed  on  each  side  of  his  nose,  and  two  more  guarded  the  corners  of 
his  mouth. 

The  upper  part  of  his  beard  was  shaven  close;  but  that  which  grew 
under  his  chin,  was  drawn  together,  braided  for  an  inch  or  two,  and 
then  tied  in  a  knot,  while  the  extremities  below  the  knot  spread  out  in 
curls  like  a  tassel. 

A  light  kihei,  (cloth  worn  like  a  shawl,)  was  carelessly  thrown 
over  one  shoulder,  and  tied  in  a  knot  on  the  other;  and  a  large  fan, 


87 

made  of  cocoa-nut  leaf,  in  his  hand,  served  to  beat  away  the  flies,  or 
the  boys,  when  either  became  too  numerous  or  troublesome. 

THE    COUNTRY    SOUTH    OF    KAILUA. 

Leaving  Kairua,  we  passed  through  the  villages  thickly  scattered 
alonsr  the   shore  to  the   southward.     The   countrv  around   looked   un- 


*TJgr^Si^!§§s 


oJSfeSss«Ss^-? 


MAKOA  . 

The  Guide  who  Piloted  the  Party  Around  Hawaii. 


usually  green  and  cheerful,  owing  to  the  frequent  rains,  which  for 
some  months  past  have  fallen  on  this  side  of  the  island.  Even  the 
barren  lava,  over  which  we  travelled,  seemed  to  veil  its  sterility 
beneath  frequent  tufts  of  tall  waving  grass,  or  spreading  shrubs  and 
flowers. 

The  sides  of  the  hills,  laid  out  for  a  considerable  extent  in  gardens 


88 

and  fields,  and  generally  cultivated  with  potatoes,  and  other  vegeta- 
bles, -were  beautiful. 

The  number  of  heiaus,  and  depositories  of  the  dead,  which  we 
passed,  convinced  us  that  this  part  of  the  island  must  formerly  have 
been  populous.  The  latter  were  built  with  fragments  of  lava,  laid 
up  evenly  on  the  outside,  generally  about  eight  feet  long,  from  four 
to  six  broad,  and  about  four  feet  high.  Some  appeared  very  ancient, 
others  had  evidently  been  standing  but  a  few  years. 

HEIAU    OF   KAUAIKAHALOA   DESCRIBED. 

At  Ruapua  we  examined  an  interesting  heiau,  called  Kauaika- 
haroa,  built  of  immense  blocks  of  lava,  and  found  its  dimensions  to 
be  150  feet  by  70.  At  the  north  end  was  a  smaller  enclosure,  sixty 
feet  long  and  ten  wide,  partitioned  off  by  a  high  wall,  with  but  one 
narrow  entrance.  The  places  where  the  idols  formerly  stood  were 
apparent,  though  the  idols  had  been  removed. 

The  spot  where  the  altar  had  been  erected  could  be  distinctly 
traced;  it  was  a  mound  of  earth,  paved  with  smooth  stones,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  firm  curb  of  lava.  The  adjacent  ground  was  strewed 
with  bones  of  the  ancient  offerings. 

The  natives  informed  us  that  four  principal  idols  were  formerly 
worshipped  there,  one  of  stone,  two  of  wood,  and  one  covered  with 
red  feathers. 

One  of  them,  they  said,  was  brought  from  a  foreign  country.  Their 
names  were  Kanenuiakea,  (great  and  wide  spreading  Kane,)  who  was 
brought  from  Tauai,  Kaneruruhonua,  (earth-shaking  Kane,)  Rorama- 
kaeha,  and  Kekuaaimanu. 

GODS    OP    THE    FISHERMEN. 

Leaving  the  heiau,  we  passed  by  a  number  of  smaller  temples, 
principally  on  the  sea  shore,  dedicated  to  Kuura,  a  male,  and  Hina,  a 
female  idol,  worshipped  by  fishermen,  as  they  were  supposed  to  pre- 
side over  the  sea,  and  to  conduct  or  impel  to  the  shores  of  Hawaii, 
the  various  shoals  of  fish  that  visit  them  at  different  seasons  of  the 
year.  The  first  of  any  kind  of  fish,  taken  in  the  season,  was  always 
presented  to  them,  especially  the  operu,  a  kind  of  herring.  This 
custom  exactly  accords  with  the  former  practice  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Maui  and  the  adjacent  islands,  and  of  the  Society  islanders. 

GOVERNOR'S  WIFE   STILL  MAKING  TAP  A. 

At  two  p.  m.  we  reached  Horuaroa,  a  large  and  populous  district. 
Here  we  found  Keoua,  the  governor's  wife,  and  her  attendants,  who 
had  come  from  Kairua  for  wauti,  with  which  to  make  cloth. 

Shortly  after,  we  reached  a  village  called  Karuaokalani,  (the  second 


89 

heaven,)  where  was  a  fine  heiau,  in  good  preservation.  It  is  called 
Pakiha;  its  dimensions  were  270  feet  by  210. 

"We  could  not  learn  the  idol  to  which  it  was  dedicated,  but  were 
informed  it  was  built  in  the  time  of  Keakealani,  who,  according  to 
tradition,  was  queen  of  Hawaii  about  eleven  generations  back. 

The  walls  were  solid,  thick,  and  nearly  entire;  and  the  singular 
manner  in  which  the  stones  were  piled  upon  the  top,  like  so  many 
small  spires,  gave  it  an  unusually  interesting  appearance. 

A  TALE   OP  A  GIANT. 

Before  we  left  Karuaokalani  the  inhabitants  pointed  out  to  us  a 
spot  called  Maukareoreo,  the  place  of  a  celebrated  giant  of  that 
name,  who  was  one  of  the  attendants  of  TImi,  king  of  Hawaii,  about 
twelve  generations  since,  and  who,  they  told  us,  was  so  tall  that  he 
could  pluck  the  cocoa-nuts  from  the  trees  as  he  walked  along;  and 
when  the  king  was  playing  in  the  surf,  where  it  was  five  or  six 
fathoms  deep,  would  walk  out  to  him  without  being  wet  above  his 
loins;  and  when  he  was  in  a  canoe,  if  he  saw  any  fish  lying  among 
the  coral  at  the  same  depth,  would  just  put  his  hand  down  and  take 
them. 

They  also  told  us  he  was  a  great  warrior,  and  that,  to  his  prowess 
principally,  Umi  was  indebted  for  many  of  his  victories. 

The  Hawaiians  are  fond  of  the  marvellous,  as  well  as  many 
people  who  are  better  informed;  and  probably  this  passion,  together 
with  the  distance  of  time  since  Maukareoreo  existed,  has  led  them 
to  magnify  one  of  Umi's  followers,  of  perhaps  a  little  larger  stature 
than  his  fellows,  into  a  giant  sixty  feet  high. 

GROVES   OF  KOU   TREES. 

Our  road  now  lay  through  a  pleasant  part  of  the  district,  thickly 
inhabited,  and  ornamented  occasionally  with  clumps  of  kou  trees. 
Several  spots  were  pointed  out  to  us,  where  the  remains  of  heiaus, 
belonging  to  the  late  king  Tamehameha,  were  still  visible. 

After  travelling  some  time,  we  came  to  Kanekaheilani,  a  large 
heiau  more  than  200  feet  square.  In  the  midst  of  it  was  a  clear  pool 
of  brackish  water,  which  the  natives  told  us  was  the  favourite  bath- 
ing place  of  Tamehameha,  and  which  he  allowed  no  other  person  to 
use.  A  rude  figure,  carved  in  stone,  standing  on  one  side  of  the 
gateway  by  which  we  entered,  was  the  only  image  we  saw  here. 

About  fifty  yards  further  on,  was  another  heiau,  called  Hale  o 
Tairi  (house  of  Tairi).  It  was  built  by  Tamehameha  soon  after  he 
had  assumed  the  government  of  the  island.  Only  one  mutilated  image 
was  now  standing,  though  it  is  evident  that,  but  a  few  years  ago, 
there  had  been  many. 


90 

TAIRI    THE    FLYING    WAR    GOD. 

The  natives  were  very  desirous  to  shew  us  the  place  where  the  image 
of  Tairi  the  war-god  stood,  and  told  us,  that  frequently  in  the  even- 
ing he  used  to  be  seen  flying  about  in  the  neighbourhood,  in  the  form 
of  a  luminous  substance  like  a  flame,  or  like  the  tail  of  a  comet. 

We  told  them  that  the  luminous  appearance  which  they  saw  was  an 
occurrence  common  to  other  countries,  and  produced  by  natural 
causes:  that  the  natives  of  the  Society  Islands  formerly,  whenever 
they  observed  such  a  phenomenon,  supposed  it  to  be  Tane,  one  of  their 
gods,  taking  his  flight  from  one  marae  to  another,  or  passing  through 
the  district  seeking  whom  he  might  destroy,  and  were  consequently 
filled  with  terror;  but  now,  they  wondered  how  they  could  ever  have 
given  way  to  such  fears,  from  so  inoffensive  a  circumstance. 

We  asked  them  if  they  did  not  see  the  same  appearances  now, 
though  the  god  had  been  destroyed,  and  his  worship  discontinued? 

They  said,  "No;  it  has  not  been  seen  since  the  abolition  of 
idolatry. " 

We  assured  them  it  did  not  proceed  from  the  power  of  the  god 
Tairi,  but  that  it  was  a  luminous  vapour,  under  the  control  of  Jehovah, 
the  creator  and  governor  of  all  things  which  they  beheld. 

CANOE    MAKING — FUTURE     STATE     DISCUSSED. 

We  walked  on  to  Pahoehoe,  where  we  entered  a  large  house,  in 
which  many  workmen  were  employed  in  making  canoes.  About  fifty 
people  soon  after  assembled  around  us.  We  asked  them  if  they 
would  like  to  hear  about  the  true  God,  and  the  way  of  salvation? 
They  answered,  Yes.  I  then  addressed  them  for  about  twenty  minutes 
on  the  first  principles  of  the  gospel.  As  soon  as  I  began  to  speak, 
they  all  sat  down,  and  observed  perfect  silence. 

Shortly  after  this  service  we  took  our  leave,  and  proceeded  along 
the  shore  to  Kahaluu;  where  a  smart  shower  of  rain  obliged  us  to 
take  shelter  in  a  house  by  the  road  side.  While  resting  there,  the 
voice  of  wailing  reached  our  ears.  We  inquired  whence  it  came? 
and  were  informed  by  the  people  of  the  house,  that  a  sick  person  in 
the  neighbourhood  had  just  expired. 

We  asked  where  the  soul  was  gone  to? 

They  answered,  they  knew  not  whither,  but  that  it  would  never 
return. 

I  spoke  to  them  respecting  the  condition  of  departed  soula;  the 
resurrection  of  the  body,  and  the  general  judgment  which  will  follow; 
telling  them  afterwards  of  the  love  of  Christ,  who  had  brought  life 
and  immortality  to  light,  and  by  his  death  secured  eternal  happiness 
to  all  that  believe  in  him. 


91 

They  listened  attentively,  and  continued  the  conversation  till  the 
rain  abated,  when  we  pursued   our  journey. 

APPROACHES  TO  AND   ENVIRONS  OF  KEAUHOU. 

We  passed  another  large  heiau,  and  travelled  about  a  mile  across 
a  rugged  bed  of  lava,  which  had  evidently  been  ejected  from  a  vol- 
cano more  recently  than  the  vast  tracts  of  the  same  substance  by 
which  it  was  surrounded.  It  also  appeared  to  have  been  torn  to  pieces, 
and  tossed  up  in  the  most  confused  manner,  by  some  violent  con- 
vulsion of  the  earth,  at  the  time  it  was  in  a  semifluid  state. 

There  was  a  kind  of  path  formed  across  the  most  level  part  of  it, 
by  large  smooth  round  stones,  brought  from  the  sea-shore,  and  placed 
about  three  or  four  feet  apart.  By  stepping  from  one  to  another  of 
these,  we  passed  over  the  roughest  piece  of  lava  we  had  yet  seen; 
and  soon  after  five  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  Keauhou,  a  pleasant  village 
containing  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  houses,  and  about  eight  miles 
from  Kairua.  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Harwood  reached  the  same  place 
about  an  hour  earlier,  and  here  we  proposed  to  spend  the  night. 

We  had  not  been  long  in  the  village,  when  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  people  collected  round  the  house  in  which  we   stopped. 

After  singing  and  prayer,  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  them.  They 
gave  good  attention;  and  though  we  conversed  with  them  a  consid- 
erable time  after  the  service  was  ended,  they  still  thronged  our  house, 
and  seemed  unwilling  to  disperse. 

ESTIMATE    OF    POPULATION — TALKS    WITH    THE    PEOPLE. 

During  our  walk  from  Kairua  to  this  place  we  counted  six  hundred 
and  ten  houses,  and  allowed  one  hundred  more  for  those  who  live 
among  the  plantations  on  the  sides  of  the  hills. 

Beckoning  five  persons  to  each  house,  which  we  think  not  far  from 
a  correct  calculation,  the  population  of  the  tract  through  which  we 
have  travelled  today  will  be  about  3550  souls. 

We  also  passed  nineteen  heiaus,  of  different  dimensions,  some  of 
which  we  carefully  examined. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  spread  our  mats  on  the  loose  pebbles  of 
which  the  floor  of  the  house  was  formed,  and,  thankful  for  the  mer- 
cies we  had  received,  laid  ourselves  down,  and  enjoyed  a  comfortable 
night's  repose.     Thermometer  at  sunset  71°. 

Early  the  next  morning  numbers  of  the  natives  collected  around  our 
lodgings,  and  when  informed  that  we  intended  to  perform  religious 
worship,  sat  down  on  the  ground,  and  became  quite  silent.  After 
singing  a  hymn  in  their  language,  I  gave  a  short  exhortation,  followed 
by  prayer. 

They  afterwards  kept  us  in  conversation  till  about  half-past  eight, 


92 

•when  we  set  out  from  Keauhou,  and  pursued  our  journey.  Mr.  Har- 
wood  proceeded  in  the  canoe;  the  rest  of  our  number  travelled  on 
foot  along  the  shore. 

LAVA    COUNTRY    DESCRIBED. 

Our  way  lay  across  a  rough  tract  of  lava,  resembling  that  which 
we  passed  over  the  preceding  afternoon.  In  many  places  it  seemed 
as  if  the  surface  of  the  lava  had  become  hard,  while  a  few  inches 
underneath  it  had  remained  semifluid,  and  in  that  state  had  been 
broken  up,  and  left  in  its  present  confused  and  irregular  form.  This 
rugged  appearance  of  the  external  lava  was  probably  produced  by  the 
expansive  force  of  the  heated  air  beneath  the  crust,  but  that  could 
not  have  caused  the  deep  chasms  or  fissures  which  we  saw  in  several 
places. 

We  also  observed  many  large  spherical  volcanic  stones,  the  surface 
of  which  had  been  fused,  and  in  some  places  had  peeled  off  like  a 
crust  or  shell,  an  inch  or  two  in  thickness.  The  centre  of  some  of 
these  stones,  which  we  broke,  was  of  a  dark  blue  colour  and  com- 
pact texture,  and  did  not  appear  to  have  been  at  all  affected  by  the 
fire  which  had  calcined  the  surface. 

SCENE    OP   BATTLE   WITH    SUPPORTERS    OF    IDOLATRY. 

After  travelling  about  two  miles  over  this  barren  waste,  we  reached 
the  place  where,  in  the  autumn  of  1819,  the  decisive  battle  was 
fought  between  the  forces  of  Eihoriho,  the  present  king,  and  his 
cousin,  Kekuaokalani,  in  which  the  latter  was  slain,  his  followers  com- 
pletely overthrown,  and  the  cruel  system  of  idolatry,  which  he  took 
up  arms  to  support,  effectually  destroyed. 

The  natives  pointed  out  to  us  the  place  where  the  king's  troops,  led 
on  by  Karaimoku,  were  first  attacked  by  the  idolatrous  party.  We 
saw  several  small  heaps  of  stones,  which  our  guide  informed  us  were 
the  graves  of  those  who,  during  the  conflict,  had  fallen  there. 

We  were  then  shewn  the  spot  on  which  the  king's  troops  formed  a 
line  from  the  sea-shore  towards  the  mountains,  and  drove  the  oppos- 
ing party  before  them  to  a  rising  ground,  where  a  stone  fence,  about 
breast  high,  enabled  the  enemy  to  defend  themselves  for  some  time, 
but  from  which  they  were  at  length  driven  by  a  party  of  Karaimoku 's 
warriors. 

The  small  tumuli  increased  in  number  as  we  passed  along,  until  we 
came  to  a  place  called  Tuamoo.  Here  Kekuaokalani  made  his  last 
stand,  rallied  his  flying  forces,  and  seemed,  for  a  moment,  to  turn 
the  scale  of  victory;  but  being  weak  with  the  loss  of  blood,  from  a 
wound  he  had  received  in  the  early  part  of  the  engagement,  he 
fainted  and  fell.     However,  he  soon  revived,  and,  though  unable  to 


93 

stand,  sat  on  a  fragment  of  lava,  and  twice  loaded  and  fired  his 
musket  on  the  advancing  party.  He  now  received  a  ball  in  liis  left 
breast,  and  immediately  covering  his  face  with  his  feather  cloak,  ex- 
pired in  the  midst  of  his  friends. 

MANONA,    THE    FAITHFUL   WIFE. 

His  wife  Manona  during  the  whole  of  the  day  fought  by  his  side 
with  steady  and  dauntless  courage. 

A  few  moments  after  her  husband's  death,  perceiving  Karaimoku 
and  his  sister  advancing,  she  called  out  for  quarter;  but  the  words 
had  hardly  escaped  from  her  lips,  when  she  received  a  ball  in  her 
left  temple,  fell  upon  the  lifeless  body  of  her  husband,  and  instantly 
expired. 

The  idolaters  having  lost  their  chief,  made  but  feeble  resistance 
afterwards;  yet  the  combat,  which  commenced  in  the  forenoon,  con- 
tinued till  near  sunset,  when  the  king's  troops,  finding  their  enemies 
had  all  either  fled  or  surrendered,  returned  to  Kairua. 

Karaimoku  grieved  much  at  the  death  of  Kekuaokalani,  who  was 
his  own  sister's  son.  He  delayed  the  engagement  as  long  as  pos- 
sible; and,  the  same  morning  that  the  battle  took  place,  sent  a  mes- 
senger, addressing  the  young  chief  as  his  son,  and  requesting  him 
to  refrain  from  hostilities  till  they  could  have  an  interview,  and,  if 
possible,  effect  an  accommodation.  But  the  message  was  rejected, 
and  the  messenger  obliged  to  jump  into  the  sea,  and  swim  to  save 
his  life.  In  the  moment  of  victory,  also,  he  acted  with  humanity;  and, 
contrary  to  the  usual  custom,  the  vanquished  were  not  pursued  and 
murdered  in  their  retreats. 

A    CAVE    OF    REFUGE — WOMEN   IN    BATTLE. 

A  little  way  south  of  the  spot  where  the  chief  fell,  was  a  small 
cave,  into  which,  in  the  confusion  that  followed  the  death  of  Kekua- 
okalani, a  woman  attached  to  his  party  crept,  and,  drawing  a  piece 
of  lava  over  its  mouth,  remained  until  night,  beneath  whose  friendly 
cover  she  fled  to  the  mountains,  not  knowing  that  the  victors  had 
returned   without  pursuing  their  foes. 

The  wives  of  warriors  often  accompanied  their  husbands  to  battle, 
and  were  frequently  slain.  Their  practice,  in  this  respect,  resembled 
that  of  the  Society  islanders  on  similar  occasions.  They  generally 
followed  in  the  rear,  carrying  calabashes  of  water,  or  of  poc,  a  little 
dried  fish,  or  other  portable  provision,  with  which  to  recruit  their  hus- 
band's strength  when  weary,  or  afford  a  draught  of  water  when 
thirsty  or  faint;  but  they  followed,  more  particularly,  to  be  at  hand 
if  their  husbands  should  be  wounded. 

Some  women,  more  courageous  than  the  rest,  or  urged  on  by  affec- 


94 

tion,  advanced  side  by  side  with  their  husbands  to  the  front  of  the 
battle,  bearing  a  small  calabash  of  water  in  one  band,  and  a  spear, 
a  dart,  or  a  stone,  in  the  other;  and  in  the  event  of  the  husband's 
being  killed,  they  seldom  survived. 

A  MONUMENT  TO  KEKUAOKALANI  AND  MANONA. 

A  pile  of  stones,  somewhat  larger  than  the  rest,  marked  the  spot 
where  the  rival  chief  and  his  affectionate  and  heroic  wife  expired. 
A  few  yards  nearer  the  sea,  an  oblong  pile  of  stones,  in  the  form  of 
a  tomb,  about  ten  feet  long  and  six  wide,  was  raised  over  the  grave 
in  which  they  were  both  interred.  A  number  of  lowly  flowering 
bushes  grew  around,  and  a  beautiful  convulvulus  in  full  bloom  almost 
covered  it  with  foliage  and  flowers. 

We  could  not  view  this  rudely  constructed  tomb  without  renewed 
lamentation  over  the  miseries  of  war,  and  a  strong  feeling  of  regret 
for  the  untimely  end  of  the  youthful  pair,  especially  for  the  affec- 
tionate Manona,  whom  even  the  horrors  of  savage  fight,  in  which  the 
demon  of  war  wears  his  most  terrific  form,  could  not  prevent  from 
following  the  fortune,  and  sharing  the  dangers,  that  she  might  ad- 
minister to  the  comfort,  of  her  much-loved  husband.  This  feeling 
was  not  a  little  increased  by  the  recollection  of  the  delusion  of  which 
they  were  the  ill-fated  victims,  and  in  support  of  which  they  were 
prodigal  of  their  blood.  Alas!  they  knew  not,  till  from  the  fatal  field 
they  entered  the  eternal  world,  the  value  of  that  life  which  they  had 
lost,  and  the  true  nature  of  that  cause  in  which  they  had  sacrified  it. 

The  piles  of  stones  rose  thick  around  the  spot  where  they  lay;  and 
we  were  informed  that  they  were  the  graves  of  his  kahu,  (particular 
friends  and  companions,)  who  stood  by  him  to  the  last,  manifesting  a 
steadfastness  which  even  their  enemies  admired,  and  a  degree  of 
courage  worthy  of  being  exercised  in  a  better  cause. 

THE    ABOLITION    OF    IDOLATRY    AND    THE    TABU. 

Kekuaokalani  was  first  cousin  to  Eihoriho.  He  is  represented  by 
some  as  having  been  an  enterprising  and  restless  young  man,  aspiring 
to  share  the  government  with  his  cousin,  if  not  to  reign  in  his  stead. 

The  late  king  Tamehameha,  a  short  time  before  his  death,  left  the 
government  of  the  islands  to  his  eldest  son  Eihoriho,  and  the  care 
of  the  gods,  their  temples,  and  the  support  of  their  worship,  to  the 
king  and  Kekuaokalani,  together  with  the  rest  of  the  chiefs. 

Almost  the  first  public  act  of  the  young  king  Eihoriho,  was  the 
abolition  of  the  national  idolatry,  and  all  the  restrictions  of  the  tabu 
system  by  which  it  was  upheld.  This  system,  with  all  its  superstitious 
cruelty,  had  existed,  and  had  exerted  its  degrading  yet  almost  super- 
natural influence  over  the  people,  from  time  immemorial;   and  it  re- 


95 

quired  no  small  degree  of  courage  by  one  single  act  to  abrogate  its 
inflexible  laws,  and  destroy  its  dreaded  power.  But  several  acts  of 
Kihoriho's  reign  shew  that  he  possessed  a  mind  well  adapted  for  such 
undertakings. 

LIHOLIHO'S  MOTIVES  FOR  ABOLISHING  TABU. 

His  motives  for  this  decisive  measure  appear  to  have  been,  in  the 
first  place,  a  desire  to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  his  wives,  and  the 
females  in  general,  whom  the  tabu  sunk  into  a  state  of  extreme 
wretchedness  and  degradation,  obliging  them  to  subsist  only  on  in- 
ferior kinds  of  food,  and  not  allowing  them  to  cook  their  provisions, 
such  as  they  were,  at  the  same  fire,  or  even  eat  in  the  same  place 
where  the  men  took  theirs. 

And  in  the  second  place,  he  seems  to  have  been  influenced  by  a 
wish  to  diminish  the  power  of  the  priests,  and  avoid  that  expendi- 
ture of  labour  and  property  which  the  support  of  idolatry  required, 
and  which  he  was  anxious  to  employ  for  other  purposes.  He  had 
also  heard  what  Pomare  and  the  Tahitian  chiefs  had  done  in  the 
Society  Islands. 

THE    HIGH-PRIEST'S    ADVICE. 

He  consulted  some  of  the  principal  chiefs,  particularly  Karai- 
moku,  who  declared  his  intention  not  to  keep  or  observe  any  more 
tabu's;  and  though  several  of  the  priests  said  the  gods  would  recom- 
pense any  neglect  with  vengeance,  Hevaheva,  the  high  priest  of  his 
father's  war-god,  said  no  evil  consequences  would  follow  the  discon- 
tinuance of  the  worship  of  the  gods. 

Soon  after  this,  the  king  made  a  feast,  to  which  many  chiefs  of  the 
different  islands  were  invited.  The  guests  assembled,  as  usual;  the 
men  in  one  place,  the  women  in  another.  The  food  was  cut  up,  and 
when  all  were  about  to  begin  their  meal,  the  king  ordered  his  attend- 
ants to  carry  some  fowls,  and  such  prohibited  food,  to  the  place 
where  his  wives  and  other  females  were  assembled;  he  then  went, 
and,  sitting  down  with  them,  began  to  eat,  and  directed  them  to  do 
the  same. 

A  shout  of  surprise  burst  from  the  multitude  around;  several  other 
chiefs  followed  his  example. 

The  men  and  women  sat  promiscuously,  and  ate  the  same  food, 
which  they  called  ai  noa,  general  or  common  eating,  in  opposition  to 
the  former  ai  tabu,  restricted  or  sacred  eating. 

The  ai  tabu  was  one  of  the  perpetual  restrictions  imposed  by  their 
idolatry  on  all  ranks  of  the  people,  from  their  birth  until  their  death. 


96 

PRIESTHOOD    ABOLISHED— IDOL    WORSHIP    ENDED. 

This  public  violation  of  it  manifested  the  king's  intention  to  de- 
stroy the  whole  system,  which  very  shortly  after  was  accomplished 
by  the  priest  Hevaheva's  resigning  his  office,  and  the  king  declaring 
that  there  should  no  longer  be  any  priests,  or  any  worship  rendered 
to  the  gods.  i 

Kekuaokalani,  though  he  had  no  share  in  the  government,  yet  had, 
in  common  with  the  other  high  chiefs,  received  a  charge  concerning 
the  gods.  Urged  on  by  the  priests,  who  promised  him  victory  by  a 
superstitious  reverence  for  the  idols  of  his  ancestors,  and  perhaps  also 
by  a  hope  of  defeating  Kihoriho,  and  securing  the  government  to 
himself,  he  took  up  arms. 

EFFECT  OF  ABOLITION  OF  TABU. 

The  abolition  of  idolatry  by  Kihoriho  was  thus  the  immediate  occa- 
sion of  the  war,  which  terminating  in  his  favour,  left  him  sole  monarch 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  This  was  the  summit  of  his  ambition,  and 
the  consummation  of  his  wishes,  though  probably  the  least  among  the 
all-wise  and  benevolent  purposes  of  Him,  who  ruleth  all  things  after 
the  counsel  of  his  own  will,  and  causeth  even  the  wrath  of  man  to 
praise  him. 

Little  did  the  pagan  chief  imagine,  when  he  collected  his  forces, 
offered  his  sacrifices,  and,  preceded  by  his  war-god,  marched  to  the 
battle,  that  he  was  urging  on  his  way  to  remove  the  most  formidable 
barrier  that  existed  to  the  introduction  of  a  religion  which  should 
finally  triumph  over  every  system  of  idolatry  in  the  world;  and  as 
little  did  the  victorious  chiefs,  when  they  beheld  themselves  mas- 
ters of  the  field,  and  returned  in  triumph  to  the  king,  think  that  suc- 
cess had  only  prepared  the  way  for  their  own  subjection  to  a  peaceful 
Prince,  whose  heralds  (then  on  their  way)  should  soon  proclaim  his 
laws  in  their  camp,  and  demand  their  allegiance  to  his  crown; — 
whose  divine  power  should  erect  among  them  a  kingdom,  of  which 
they  themselves  should  delight  to  become  subjects,  and  commence  a 
reign  that  should  be  everlasting. 

AT    HONUAINO   AND    HOKUKANO. 

Leaving  Tuamoo,  we  passed  on  to  Honuaino,  where,  being  thirsty 
and  weary,  we  sat  down  on  the  side  of  a  canoe,  under  the  shade  of  a 
fine-spreading  hibiscus,  and  begged  a  little  water  of  the  villagers. 

We  had  not  remained  many  minutes  before  we  were  surrounded 
by  about  150  people.  After  explaining  to  them  in  few  words  our 
feelings  on  meeting  them,  we  asked  them  if  they  would  like  to  hear 
what  we  had  to  say  to  them.  They  replied,  Ae  (yes,)  and  sat  down 
immediately. 


97 

We  sung  a  hymn  and  prayed,  and  I  addressed  them  for  about  half  an 
hour  on  the  first  principles  of  Christianity.  They  all  appeared  grati- 
fied, said  they  were  naau  po,  (dark  hearted,)  and  should  be  glad  to 
be  instructed  in  all  these  things,  if  any  body  would  teach  them. 

We  now  travelled  on  to  Hokukano,  where  we  passed  a  pahu  tabu, 
(sacred  enclosure,)  which  the  natives  told  us  was  built  by  Taraiopu, 
(Terreoboo  in  Cook's  Voyages,)  king  of  the  island  at  the  time  it  was 
discovered  by  Captain  Cook. 

A  BURIAL  TOMB  AND  SHARK  HEIAU. 

A  little  further  on  we  examined  a  buoa  (tomb)  of  a  celebrated 
priest.  It  was  composed  of  loose  stones,  neatly  laid,  about  eight 
feet  square  and  five  high. 

In  the  centre  was  a  small  mound  of  earth,  higher  than  the  walls; 
over  this  a  house  had  formerly  been  erected,  but  it  was  now  fallen  to 
decay;  around  it  were  long  poles,  stuck  in  the  earth,  about  three  or 
four  inches  apart,  and  united  together  at  the  top. 

We  asked  why  the  grave  was  enclosed  with  those  tall  sticks?  Some 
said"  it  was  a  custom  so  to  inter  persons  of  consequence;  others  said 
it  was  to  prevent  the  spirit  from  coming  out. 

On  the  top  of  a  high  mountain,  in  the  neighbourhood,  stood  the 
remains  of  an  old  heiau,  dedicated  to  Ukanipo,  a  shark,  to  which,  we 
were  informed,  all  the  people  along  the  coast,  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, used  to  repair,  at  stated  times,  with  abundant  offerings. 

AT    KAAWALOA. 

Passing  on  along  a  rugged  road,  we  reached  Kaavaroa  soon  after 
2  p.  m. 

Kamakau  received  us  kindly,  spread  out  a  mat  for  us  to  sit  down 
on,  handed  us  a  calabash  of  good  fresh  water,  (a  great  luxury  on  this 
side  of  the  island,)  and  ordered  a  goat  to  be  prepared  for  our  refresh- 
ment. He  appeared  as  zealous  in  his  pursuit  of  truth,  earnest  in  his 
desires  after  his  own  salvation,  and  concerned  for  that  of  his  people, 
as  when  some  of  our  party  had  formerly  visited  him. 

One  or  two  inferior  chiefs,  from  a  district  belonging  to  him,  in 
the  south  part  of  the  island,  were  sitting  in  the  house  when  we  en- 
tered. He  afterwards  began  to  talk  with  them  on  matters  of  reli- 
gion, with  a  seriousness  and  intelligence  which  surprised  us. 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Thurston  and  I  climbed  the  rocks,  which  rise 
in  a  north-east  direction  from  the  village,  and  visited  the  cave  in 
which  the  body  of  Captain  Cook  was  deposited,  on  being  first  taken 
from  the  beach.  These  rocks,  which  are  entirely  composed  of  lava, 
are  nearly  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  in  some  parts  very  steep.  A 
winding  path  of   rather  difficult   ascent   leads  to   the   cave,   which   is 


98 

situated  on  the  face  of  the  rocks,  about  half-way  to  the  top.  In 
front  of  it  is  a  kind  of  ledge  three  or  four  feet  wide,  and  immedi- 
ately over  it  the  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  for  a  yard  or  two,  but 
afterwards  the  ascent  is  gradual  to  the  summit. 

The  cave  itself  is  of  volcanic  formation,  and  appears  to  have 
been  one  of  those  subterranean  tunnels  so  numerous  on  the  island, 
by  which  the  volcanoes  in  the  interior  sometimes  discharge  their 
contents  upon  the  shore.  It  is  five  feet  high,  and  the  entrance 
about  eight  or  ten  feet  wide.  The  roof  and  sides  within  are  of 
obsidian  or  hard  vitreous  lava;  and  along  the  floor  it  is  evident  that 
in  some  remote  period  a  stream  of  the  same  kind  of  lava  has  also 
flowed. 

INTERVIEWS   WITH   WITNESSES    OP    COOK'S    DEATH. 

There  are  a  number  of  persons  at  Kaavaroa,  and  other  places  in 
the  islands,  who  either  were  present  themselves  at  the  unhappy  dis- 
pute, which  in  this  vicinity  terminated  the  valuable  life  of  the 
celebrated  Captain  Cook,  or  who,  from  their  connexion  with  those 
who  were  on  the  spot,  are  well  acquainted  with  the  particulars  of 
that  melancholy  event.  With  many  of  them  we  have  frequently  con- 
versed, and  though  their  narratives  differ  in  a  few  smaller  points, 
they  all  agree  in  the  main  facts  with  the  account  published  by  Cap- 
tain King,  his  successor. 

"The  foreigner,"  they  say,  "was  not  to  blame;  for,  in  the  first 
instance,  our  people  stole  his  boat,  and  he,  in  order  to  recover  it, 
designed  to  take  our  king  on  board  his  ship,  and  detain  him  there  till 
it  should  be  restored. 

''Kapena  Kuke  (Captain  Cook's  name  is  thus  pronounced  by  the 
natives)  and  Taraiopu  our  king  were  walking  together  towards  the 
shore,  when  our  people,  conscious  of  what  had  been  done,  thronged 
around  the  king,  and  objected  to  his  going  any  further.  His  wife 
also  joined  her  entreaties  that  he  would  not  go  on  board  the  ships. 

"While  he  was  hesitating,  a  man  came  running  from  the  other  side 
of  the  bay,  entered  the  crowd  almost  breathless,  and  exclaimed,  'It 
is  war! — the  foreigners  have  commenced  hostilities,  have  fired  on  a 
canoe  from  one  of  their  boats,  and  killed  a  chief.' 

CIRCUMSTANCES    INCIDENT    TO    COOK'S    DEATH. 

"This  enraged  some  of  our  people,  and  alarmed  the  chiefs,  as  they 
feared  Captain  Cook  would  kill  the  king.  The  people  armed  them- 
selves with  stones,  clubs,  and  spears.  Kanona  entreated  her  husband 
not  to  go.     All  the  chiefs  did  the  same.     The  king  sat  down. 

"The  captain  seemed  agitated,  and  was  walking  towards  his  boat, 
when  one  of  our  men  attacked  him  with  a   spear:   he  turned,   and 


99 

■with  his  double-barrelled  gun  shot  the  man  who  struck  him.  Some  of 
our  people  then  threw  stones  at  him,  which  being  seen  by  his  men 
they  fired  on  us. 

"Captain  Cook  then  endeavoured  to  stop  his  men  from  firing,  but 
could  not,  on  account  of  the  noise.  He  was  turning  again  to  speak 
to  us,  when  he  was  stabbed  in  the  back  with  a  pahoa;  a  spear  was 
at  the  same  time  driven  through  his  body;  he  fell  into  the  water,  and 
spoke  no  more.  We  have  several  times  inquired,  particularly  of  the 
natives  acquainted  with  the  circumstances,  whether  Captain  Cook 
was  facing  them,  or  had  his  back  towards  them,  when  he  received  the 
fatal  thrust;  and  their  answer,  in  general,  has  been  as  here  stated, 
which  accords  very  nearly  with  Captain  King's  account,  who  says, 
'Our  unfortunate  commander,  the  last  time  he  was  seen  distinctly, 
was  standing  at  the  water's  edge,  and  calling  out  to  the  boats  to 
cease  firing,  and  pull  in.' 

"If  it  be  true,  as  some  of  those  present  have  imagined,  that  the 
marines  and  boatmen  fired  without  his  orders,  and  that  he  was  de- 
sirous of  preventing  any  further  bloodshed,  it  is  not  improbable,  that 
his  humanity,  on  this  occasion,  proved  fatal  to  him:  for  it  was  re- 
marked, that  whilst  he  faced  the  natives,  none  of  them  had  offered 
him  any  violence,  but  that  having  turned  about,  to  give  his  orders  to 
the  boats,  he  was  stabbed  in  the  back,  and  fell  with  his  face  into 
the  water."  See  Captain  King's  Continuation  of  Cook's  Voyages, 
4to.  vol.  iii.  pages  45  and  46. 

SOUVENIRS    OF    COOK. 

"After  he  was  dead,  we  all  wailed.  His  bones  were  separated — 
the  flesh  was  scraped  off  and  burnt,  as  was  the  practice  in  regard 
to  our  own  chiefs  when  they  died.  We  thought  he  was  the  god 
Kono,  worshipped  him  as  such,  and  after  his  death  reverenced  his 
bones." 

Not  only  were  his  bones  so  treated,  but  almost  every  relic  left 
with  them. 

Among  other  things,  a  sledge,  which,  from  their  description  of  it, 
must  have  come  from  the  north-west  coast  of  America,  left  at  the 
islands  by  Captain  Cook,  or  some  of  his  companions,  was  afterwards 
worshipped  by  the  people.  They  called  it,  probably  from  its  singular 
shape,  Opaitauarii,  a  crab  or  shrimp,  for  a  chief  to  rest  on;  from  opai, 
a  f-r:ib  or  shrimp,  tau,  to  rest  or  sit,  and  arii,  a  chief. 

Many  of  the  chiefs  frequently  express  the  sorrow  they  feel  when- 
ever they  think  of  the  Captain;  and  even  the  common  people  usually 
speak  of  these  facts  with  apparent  regret.  Yet  they  exonerate  the 
king  Taraiopu  from  all  blame,  as  nothing  was  done  by  his  orders. 


100 
REGRET   AT    COOK'S    DEATH. 

I  was  once  in  a  house  in  Oahu  with  Karaimoku,  and  several  other 
chiefs,  looking  over  the  plates  in  the  folio  edition  of  Cook  's  Voyages. 
They  were  greatly  affected  with  the  print  which  represented  his 
death,  and  inquired  if  I  knew  the  names  of  those  who  were  slain  on 
that  occasion. 

I  perceived  Karaimoku  more  than  once  wipe  the  tears  from  his 
eyes,  while  conversing  about  this  melancholy  event. 

He  said,  he  recollected  Captain  Cook's  visit,  if  not  also  his  person, 
though  he  was  at  Maui  at  the  time  of  his  death. 

More  than  once,  when  conversing  with  us  on  the  length  of  time  the 
missionaries  had  been  in  the  Society  Islands,  they  have  said,  Why 
did  you  not  come  here  sooner?  Was  it  because  we  killed  Captain 
Cook? 

WHY  COOK'S  BOAT  WAS  STOLEN. 

We  have  sometimes  asked  them  what  inducement  they  had  to 
steal  the  boat,  when  they  possessed  so  many  canoes  of  their  own. 

They  have  generally  answered,  that  they  did  not  take  it  to  trans- 
port themselves  from  one  island  to  another,  for  their  own  canoes 
were  more  convenient,  and  they  knew  better  how  to  manage  them; 
but  because  they  saw  it  was  not  sewed  together,  but  fastened  with 
nails.  These  they  wanted, — therefore  stole  the  boat,  and  broke  it  to 
pieces  the  next  day,  in  order  to  obtain  the  nails  to  make  fish-hooks 
with. 

Wo  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  this  was  the  principal,  if 
not  the  only  motive,  by  which  they  were  actuated  in  committing  the 
depredation  which  ultimately  led   to   such   unhappy  consequences. 

They  prize  nails  very  highly;  and  though  we  do  not  know  that 
they  ever  went  so  far  in  their  endeavours  to  obtain  a  more  abundant 
supply,  as  the  Society  islanders  did,  who  actually  planted  them  in 
the  ground,  hoping  they  would  grow  like  potatoes,  or  any  other 
vegetable,  yet  such  is  the  value  they  still  set  on  them,  that  the  fisher- 
men would  rather  receive  a  wrought  nail,  to  make  of  it  a  fish-hook 
according  to  their  own  taste,  than  the  best  English-made  fish-hook 
we  could  give  them. 

COOK    SUPPOSED   TO   BE    A   GOD. 

It  has  been  supposed  that  the  circumstance  of  Captain  Cook's 
bones  being  separated,  and  the  flesh  taken  from  them,  was  evidence 
of  a  savage  and  unrelenting  barbarity;  but  so  far  from  this,  it  was 
the  result  of  the  highest  respect  they  could  shew  him. 

We  may  also  mention  here,  the  reason  for  which  the  remains  of 
Captain  Cook  received,  as  was  the  case,  the  worship  of  a  god. 


101 

Among  the  kings  who  governed  Hawaii  during  what  may  in  its 
chronology  be  called  the  fabulous  age,  was  Eono  or  Orono;  who,  on 
some  account,  became  offended  with  his  wife,  and  murdered  her;  but 
afterwards  lamented  the  act  so  much,  as  to  induce  a  state  of  mental 
derangement.  In  this  state  he  travelled  through  all  the  islands,  box- 
ing and  wrestling  with  every  one  he  met. 

He  subsequently  set  sail  in  a  singularly  shaped  canoe  for  Tahiti,  or 
a  foreign  country.  After  his  departure  he  was  deified  by  his  country- 
men, and  annual  games  of  boxing  and  wrestling  were  instituted  to  his 
honour. 

As  soon  as  Captain  Cook  arrived,  it  was  supposed,  and  reported, 
that  the  god  Eono  was  returned;  the  priests  clothed  him  with  the 
sacred  cloth  worn  only  by  the  god,  conducted  him  to  their  temples, 
sacrificed  animals  to  propitiate  his  favour,  and  hence  the  people  pros- 
trated themselves  before  him  as  he  walked  through  the  villages. 

WHAT    UNDECEIVED    THE    NATIVES. 

But  when,  in  the  attack  made  upon  him,  they  saw  his  blood  run- 
ning, and  heard  his  groans,  they  said,  "No,  this  is  not  Eono." 

Some,  however,  after  his  death,  still  supposed  him  to  be  Eono,  and 
expected  he  would  appear  again. 

Some  of  his  bones,  his  ribs,  and  breastbone,  were  considered  sacred, 
as  part  of  Eono,  and  deposited  in  a  heiau  (temple)  dedicated  to  Eono, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island.  Captain  King  was  led  to  suppose 
that  the  bones  of  the  trunk  were  burnt  with  the  flesh.  Part  of  them 
probably  were  so  disposed  of,  but  not  the  whole. 

It  appears  that  none  of  them  were  returned;  for,  describing  those 
brought  to  Captain  Clarke,  which  were  all  they  received,  he  says, 
"When  we  arrived  at  the  beach,  Eappo  came  into  the  pinnace,  and 
delivered  to  the  captain  the  bones  wrapped  up  in  a  large  quantity  of 
fine  new  cloth,  and  covered  with  a  spotted  cloak  of  black  and  white 
feathers. 

PORTIONS   OP   COOK'S   BODY   RETURNED. 

We  found  in  it  both  the  hands  of  Captain  Cook  entire,  which  were 
well  known,  from  a  remarkable  scar  on  one  of  them,  that  divided 
the  thumb  from  the  forefinger,  the  whole  length  of  the  metacarpal 
bone;  the  skull,  but  with  the  scalp  separated  from  it,  and  the  bones 
that  form  the  face  wanting;  the  scalp,  with  the  hair  upon  it  cut 
short,  and  tli f  cars  adhering  to  it;  the  bones  of  both  arms,  with  the 
skin  of  the  fore  arms  hanging  to  them.  The  thigh  and  leg  bones 
joined  together,  but  without  the  feet.  The  ligaments  of  the  joints 
were  entire;   and  the   whole   bore   evident   marks  of  having  been   in 


102 

tho  fire,  except  the  hands,  which  had  the  flesh  left  upon  them,  and 
were  cut  in  several  places,  and  crammed  with  salt,  apparently  with  an 
intention  of  preserving  them. 

The  lower  jaw  and  feet,  which  were  wanting,  Eappo  told  us,  had 
been  seized  by  different  chiefs,  and  that  Terreeoboo  was  using  every 
means  to  recover  them. 

Speaking  of  Eappo 's  first  visit  after  the  death  of  Captain  Cook,  he 
says,  "We  learned  from  this  person,  that  the  flesh  of  all  the  bodies 
of  our  people,  together  with  the  bones  of  the  trunks,  had  been  burnt." 
— Captain  King's  Continuation  of  Cook's  Voyages,  vol.  iii.  pages  78, 
79,  and  80. 

There  religious  homage  was  paid  to  them,  and  from  thence  they 
were  annually  carried  in  procession  to  several  other  heiaus,  or  borne 
by  the  priests  round  the  island,  to  collect  the  offerings  of  the  people, 
for  the  support  of  the  worship  of  the  god  Kono. 

The  bones  were  preserved  in  a  small  basket  of  wicker-work,  com- 
pletely covered  over  with  red  feathers;  which  in  those  days  were  con- 
sidered to  be  the  most  valuable  articles  the  natives  possessed,  as  being 
sacred,  and  a  necessary  appendage  to  every  idol,  and  almost  every 
object  of  religious  homage  throughout  the  islands  of  the  Pacific. 
They  were  supposed  to  add  much  to  the  power  and  influence  of  the 
idol,  or  relic,  to  which  they  were  attached. 

VAIN   SEARCH  FOR   COOK'S  BONES. 

The  missionaries  in  the  Society  Islands  had,  by  means  of  some 
Sandwich  islanders,  been  long  acquainted  with  the  circumstance  of 
some  of  Captain  Cook's  bones  being  preserved  in  one  of  their  tem- 
ples, and  receiving  religious  worship;  and  since  the  time  of  my 
arrival  in  company  with  the  deputation  from  the  London  Missionary 
Society,  in  1822,  every  endeavour  has  been  made  to  learn,  though 
without  success,  whether  they  were  still  in  existence,  and  where 
they  were  kept. 

All  those  of  whom  inquiry  has  been  made  have  uniformly  asserted, 
that  they  were  formerly  kept  by  the  priests  of  Eono,  and  worshipped, 
but  have  never  given  any  satisfactory  information  as  to  where  they 
are  now. 

Whenever  we  have  asked  the  king,  or  Hevaheva  the  chief  priest,  or 
any  of  the  chiefs,  they  have  either  told  us  they  were  under  the 
care  of  those  who  had  themselves  said  they  knew  nothing  about 
them,  or  that  they  were  now  lost. 

The  best  conclusion  we  may  form  is,  that  part  of  Captain  Cook's 
bones  were  preserved  by  the  priests,  and  were  considered  sacred  by 
the  people,  probably  till  the  abolition  of  idolatry  in  1819:  that,  at  that 
period  they  were  committed  to  the  secret  care  of  some  chief,  or  de- 


103 

posited  by  the  priests  who  had  charge  of  them,  in  a  cave,  unknown 
to  all  besides  themselves.  The  manner  in  which  they  were  then  dis- 
posed of,  will,  it  is  presumed,  remain  a  secret,  till  the  knowledge  of 
it  is  entirely  lost. 

The  priests  and  chiefs  always  appear,  unwilling  to  enter  into  con- 
versation on  the  subject,  and  desirous  to  avoid  the  recollection  of  the 
unhappy  circumstance. 

COOK'S    DEATH    UNPREMEDITATED. 

From  the  above  account,  as  well  as  every  other  statement  given  by 
the  natives,  it  is  evident  that  the  death  of  Captain  Cook  was  un- 
premeditated, and  resulted  from  their  dread  of  his  anger;  a  sense 
of  danger,  on  the  momentary  impulse  of  passion,  exciting  them  to 
revenge  the  death  of  the  chief  who  had  been  shot. 

Few  intelligent  visitors  leave  Hawaii  without  making  a  pilgrimage 
to  the  spot  where  he  fell.  We  have  often  visited  it,  and,  though  sev- 
eral natives  have  been  our  guides  on  different  occasions,  they  have 
invariably  conducted  us  to  the  same  place.  A  number  of  cocoa-nut 
trees  grow  near  the  shore,  and  there  are  perforations  through  two 
of  them,  which  the  natives  say  were  produced  by  the  balls  fired  from 
the  boats  on  the  occasion  of  his  death. 

"We  have  never  walked  over  these  rocks  without  emotions  of  melan- 
choly interest.  The  mind  invariably  reverts  to  the  circumstances  of 
their  discovery;  the  satisfaction  of  the  visitors;  the  surprise  of  the 
natives;  the  worship  they  paid  to  their  discoverer;  and  the  fatal 
catastrophe  which  here  terminated  his  days;  and,  although  in  every 
event  we  acknowledge  an  overruling  Providence,  we  cannot  but  lament 
the  untimely  end  of  a  man  whose  discoveries  contributed  so  much 
to  the  advancement  of  science,  introduced  us  to  an  acquaintance  with 
our  antipodes,  and  led  the  way  for  the  philosopher  in  his  extended 
researches,  the  merchant  in  his  distant  commerce,  and  the  missionary 
in  his  errand  of  mercy,  to  the  unenlightened  heathen  at  the  ends  of 
the  earth. 

CHURCH  AND   SCHOOL  AT   SITE  OP   COOK'S  DEATH. 

It  will  be  gratifying  to  the  Christian  reader  to  know,  that,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  governor  of  the  island,  and  the  friendly  in- 
fluence of  the  present  chief  of  the  place,  Naihe,  and  his  wife  Kapio- 
lani,  who  are  steady,  intelligent,  discreet,  and  one,  if  not  both,  it  is 
to  be  hoped,  pious  persons,  a  missionary  station  has  since  been  formed 
in  this  village;  and  that  on  the  shore  of  the  same  bay,  and  not  far 
from  the  spot  where  this  murderous  affray  took  place,  and  whore 
Captain    Cook   was  killed,   a   school  has  been   opened,   and   a  house 


104 

erected  for  Christian  worship;  and  that  the  inhabitants  of  the 
neighbourhood  are  instructed  in  the  elements  of  learning  and  the 
peaceful  principle  of  the  Christian  religion. 

INVESTIGATIONS    AT    KAAWALOA. 

Towards  evening  we  examined  another  buoa,  similar  to  the  one  we 
had  passed  at  Hokukano.  On  entering  it,  we  found  part  of  a  canoe, 
several  calabashes,  some  mats,  tapa,  &c.  and  three  small  idols,  about 
eighteen  inches  long,  carefully  wrapped  in  eloth. 

The  man  who  accompanied  us  said,  "My  father  lies  here,  don't 
disturb  him;  I  have  not  yet  done  weeping  for  him,  though  he  has 
been  dead   some  years." 

We  assured  him  of  our  sympathy  with  him  in  the  loss  of  his 
father;  and  having  satisfied  our  curiosity,  which  he  was  willing  to 
gratify  by  allowing  us  to  enter  the  tomb,  we  returned  to  Kama- 
kau's,  in  conversation  with  whom  we  passed  the  evening. 

He  made  many  inquiries;  such  as,  if  he  should  bathe  on  the  Sab- 
bath, or  eat  fish  that  was  caught  or  brought  to  him  on  that  day; 
whether  the  same  body  would  rise  again  at  the  last  day;  and  if  the 
spirit  proceeded  into  the  presence  of  God  immediately  on  quitting 
the  body. 

During  our  journey  today,  we  have  numbered  443  houses  and  eight 
heiaus.  In  the  shade,  the  thermometer  at  sun-rise  stood  at  71°,  at 
noon  76°,  at  sun-set  71°. 

Much  rain  fell  during  the  night,  but  the  following  morning  was 
bright  and  serene.  It  was  the  Sabbath,  and  a  wide  field  of  useful- 
ness, presented  its  claim  to  our  attention  on  this  holy  day,  which  we 
felt  was  to  be  specially  employed  in  exhibiting  to  the  heathen  around 
the  unsearchable  riches  of  Christ. 

RELIGIOUS    INTEREST    OP    KAMAKAU. 

The  village  of  Kaavaroa,  where  we  lodged,  stretched  along  the 
north  shore  of  the  bay.  A  number  of  villages  with  a  considerable 
population  were  scattered  on  the  southern  shore,  and  it  appeared  our 
duty  to  go  over  and  preach  to  them.  Mr.  Bishop  and  myself,  having 
procured  a  canoe  from  Kamakau,  passed  over  the  bay  about  nine  a.  m. 
Messrs.  Thurston,  Goodrich,  and  Harwood,  remained  at  Kaavaroa, 
where  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  attentive  congregations,  both  in  the 
morning  and  afternoon. 

The  good  chief  Kamakau  was  so  anxious  that  his  people  might 
profit  by  the  word  spoken,  that  he  could  not  forbear  interrupting 
the  preacher,  to  request  them  to  be  attentive.  After  the  conclusion  of 
the  services,  he  also  addressed  them,  and  exhorted  them  to  be  in 
earnest  in  seeking  salvation  through  Jesus  Christ. 


105 

The  missionaries  observed,  with  great  pleasure,  that  during  the  day 
he  was  frequently  engaged  in  affectionate  conversation  on  religious 
subjects,  with  some  one  or  other  of  his  people. 

PREACHING  ALONG  THE  KONA  COAST. 

Landing  on  the  southern  shore  of  Kearake'kua,  Mr.  Bishop  and  I 
passed  through  the  villages  of  Kiloa,  Waipunaula,  and  Kalama,  in- 
viting the  people,  as  we  went  along,  to  attend  a  religious  exercise.  At 
the  latter  place  we  entered  a  large  house,  built  by  Karaimoku's 
mother,  Kamauokalani,  but  at  present  belonging  to  Kekauonohi,  his 
niece.  It  was  the  largest  in  the  place,  and  was  ninety-three  feet  by 
thirty  in  the  inside.  Here  about  three  hundred  people  collected;  and 
I  preached  to  them  from  Psalm  xxv.  8. 

After  the  service,  they  seemed  desirous  to  enter  into  conversation 
on  what  they  had  heard.  One  man  stood  up,  and  called  out  aloud, 
"I  desire  Jehovah,  the  good  Lord,  for  my  God!  but  we  have  no  one 
to  tell  us  about  him." 

SERVICES   HAD   TO   BE   REPEATED. 

In  the  afternoon  we  sent  the  head  man  word  to  collect  the  people, 
that  they  might  hear  the  word  of  God  again.  It  rained,  but  a  con- 
siderable number  soon  assembled  in  the  large  house,  and  I  preached 
to  them  from  1  Tim.  i.  15. 

Many  kept  arriving  half  an  hour  after  the  service  had  commenced, 
which  induced  me  to  recapitulate  the  discourse,  yet  they  did  not  seem 
weary.  When  it  was  finished,  the  head  man  addressed  the  people, 
recommending  them  to  attend  to  what  they  had  heard,  and  proposed 
that  henceforth  they  should  abstain  from  all  labour  on  the  Sabbath, 
and  pray  to  Jehovah  and  Jesus  Christ;  assuring  them  that  such  was 
his  own  intention. 

After  answering  several  inquiries,  and  encouraging  them  to  adopt 
the  proposal  that  had  been  made  by  the  head  man,  we  bade  them 
farewell,  and  proceeded  to  another  village. 

Two  large  heaps  of  ti  root,  (a  variety  of  dracaena,  from  the  sweet 
root  of  which  an  intoxicating  drink  is  made,)  and  one  or  two  vessels  of 
sugar-cane  juice  in  a  state  of  fermentation,  preparatory  to  its  being 
distilled,  were,  during  the  day,  thrown  away  at  this  place,  in  conse- 
quence of  some  public  remarks  against  intoxication. 

EXPERIENCES    AT    KEEL 

After  leaving  Kalama,  we  walked  to  Keei,  a  considerable  village 
on  the  south  point  of  Kearake'kua  bay. 

As  we  approached  it,  we  passed  over  the  ground  where,  about  forty 
years  ago,  Tamehameha  encamped  with  his  warriors,  previous  to  his 
decisive  battles  with  Kivaraao,  the  son  of  Taraiopu. 


106 

On  reaching  the  head  man's  house,  about  one  hundred  people  soon 
collected  before  the  door,  and  I  preached  to  them  from  Psalm  lxx.  4. 
concluding,  as  usual,  with  prayer. 

We  then  went  into  the  house  prepared  for  our  lodging,  which  the 
good  people  soon  made  very  comfortable, -by  spreading  some  cocoa-nut 
leaves  on  the  ground,  and  covering  them  with  a  clean  mat. 

The  kind  host  then  proposed  to  fetch  a  pig,  and  have  it  dressed 
for  suppei*.  We  told  him  we  had  rather  ho  would  not  do  it  on  the 
Sabbath,  but  that,  if  agreeable,  we  should  be  glad  to  receive  one  in 
the  morning. 

After  family  worship,  we  laid  down  on  the  mats  to  repose,  thankful 
for  the  opportunities  of  doing  good  which  we  had  enjoyed,  and  for 
the  encouraging  attention  manifested  by  the  people. 

GEOLOGY    AND    BURIAL    CAVES    OF    KEALAKEKTJA. 

In  the  morning  of  July  the  21st,  the  party  at  Kamakau's  walked 
through  the  village  of  Kaavaroa  (Kowrowa  in  Cook's  Voyages)  to 
the  sea-side.  The  water  in  some  places  is  deep,  and,  along  the  whole 
extent  of  the  north-west  shore,  a  boat  may  pull  in  close  to  the  rocks. 
The  rocks  which  form  the  beach  on  this  and  the  opposite  side  of  the 
bay,  are  not,  as  was  supposed  by  those  who  first  described  them,  of 
black  coral,  but  composed  entirely  of  lava,  porous,  hard,  and  of  a  very 
dark  colour,  occasionally  tinged  with  a  ferruginous  brown,  bearing 
marks  of  having  been  in  a  state  of  fusion.  Part  of  it  has  probably 
flowed  through  the  cavern  in  which  Captain  Cook 's  body  was  de- 
posited, as  traces  of  a  stream  of  lava  from  thence  to  the  plain  below 
are  very  distinct. 

The  steep'  rocks  at  the  head  of  the  bay  are  of  the  same  kind  of  sub- 
stance, but  apparently  more  ancient;  and  judging  from  appearances, 
the  lava  of  which  they  are  composed  had  issued  from  its  volcano  be- 
fore Kearake'kua  existed;  as  part  of  the  coast  seems  to  have  been 
rent  from  these  rocks,  and  sunk  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  has 
filled  up  the  indention  thus  made,  and  formed  the  present  bay. 

There  are  stiW  a  number  of  caves  in  the  face  of  these  rocks,  which 
are  seldom  resorted  to  for  security  in  a  time  of  danger,  but  used  as 
places  of  sepulture.  Several  were  barricaded,  to  prevent  any  but  the 
proprietors  entering  them,  or  depositing  bodies  there.  The  natives 
pointed  out  one  in  which  the  remains  of  Keoua,  uncle  of  Tamehameha, 
were  laid. 

Having  accomplished  the  object  of  their  excursion,  which  was  to 
procure  some  fragments  of  the  rock  on  which  Captain  Cook  had  been 
killed,  they  prepared  to  return. 

On  their  return,  they  exchanged  a  piece  of  blue  cotton,  about  three 
yards  in  length,  for  four  small  idols.     They  were  rudely-carved  imi- 


107 

tations  of  the  human  figure;  one  of  them  between  three  and  four 
feet  in  length,  the  others  not  more  than  eighteen  inches.  Having 
breakfasted  with  Kamakau  and  his  family,  they  took  their  leave, 
and  passed  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  bay. 

HAWAIIAN    THEORIES    OP    THE    HEREAFTER. 

The  house  in  which  Mr.  Bishop  and  myself  had  lodged,  was  early 
crowded  with  natives.  Morning  worship  was  held  in  the  native  lan- 
guage, and  a  short  address  given  to  the  people. 

A  very  interesting  conversation  ensued,  on  the  resurrection  of  the 
dead  at  the  last  day,  which  had  been  spoken  of  in  the  address.  The 
people  said  they  had  heard  of  it  by  Kapihe,  a  native  priest,  who 
formerly  resided  in  this  village,  and  who,  in  the  time  of  Tameha- 
meha,  told  that  prince,  that  at  his  death  he  would  see  his  ancestors, 
and  that  hereafter  all  the  kings,  chiefs,  and  people  of  Hawaii,  would 
live  again. 

I  asked  them  how  this  would  be  effected,  and  with  what  circum- 
stances it  would  be  attended;  whether  they  would  live  again  on  Ha- 
waii, or  in  Miru,  the  Hades  of  the  Sandwich  Islands? 

They  said  there  were  two  gods,  who  conducted  the  departed  spirits 
of  their  chiefs  to  some  place  in  the  heavens,  where  it  was  supposed 
the  spirits  of  kings  and  chiefs  sometimes  dwelt,  and  afterwards  re- 
turned with  them  to  the  earth,  where  they  accompanied  the  move- 
ments, and  watched  over  the  destinies,  of  their  survivors. 

The  name  of  one  of  these  gods  was  Kaonohiokala,  the  eye-ball  of 
the  sun;  and  of  the  other,  Kuahairo. 

A    REVELATION    TO    KAMEHAMEHA. 

Kapihe  was  priest  to  the  latter,  and,  by  pretended  revelation,  in- 
formed Tamehameha  that  when  he  should  die,  Kuahairo  would  take 
his  spirit  to  the  sky,  and  accompany  it  to  the  earth  again,  when  his 
body  would  be  reanimated  and  youthful;  that  he  would  have  his  wives, 
and  resume  his  government  in  Hawaii;  and  that,  at  the  same  time,  the 
existing  generation  would  see  and  know  their  parents  and  ancestors, 
and  all  the  people  who  had  died  would  be  restored  to  life. 

These,  they  said,  were  all  the  particulars  they  knew;  but  added, 
that  though  at  Kapihe 's  suggestion  many  valuable  offerings  were 
made  to  his  god,  he  proved  a  false  prophet,  for  Tamehameha  died,  and 
did  not  come  to  life  again. 

At  eight  o'clock,  a  small  pig,  nicely  baked  under  ground,  and  a 
calabash  full  of  potatoes,  were  brought  in  for  breakfast.  We  were 
both  too  ill  to  partake  of  the  bounty  of  our  kind  host,  yet  felt 
grateful  for  his  attention. 


108 

MOKUOHAI,    SITE    OF    KAMEHAMEHA'S    DECISIVE    BATTLE. 

At  nine  a.  m.  we  were  joined  by  our  companions  from  Kaavaroa, 
and  shortly  after  set  out  again  on  our  tour. 

Mr.  Bishop  went  in  the  canoe,  the  rest  of  us  walked  on  towards 
Honaunau,  a  considerable  village  about  -five  miles  distant. 

Leaving  Keei,  wTe  passed  on  to  Mokuohai,  a  spot  celebrated  as  the 
place  where,  in  the  year  1780  or  1781,  the  great  battle  was  fought 
between  Kauikeouli,  (called  also  as  Kivaraao,)  eldest  son  and  suc- 
cessor of  Taraiopu,  and  his  cousin,  Tamehameha,  by  which  the  latter 
though  before  only  possessed  of  two  districts,  became  sovereign  of  the 
whole  island. 

This  battle  is  considered  by  most  of  Tamehameha's  friends  (who 
frequently  allude  to  it  in  talking  of  him)  as  the  foundation  of  all  his 
subsequent  power  and  greatness  in  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

AN   EIGHT-DAY    BATTLE. 

During  seven  successive  days,  a  severe  conflict  was  maintained, 
with  doubtful  success.  On  the  morning  of  the  eighth  day,  it  was 
renewed  with  augmented  fury  on  both  sides,  and  continued  raging 
until  noon,  when  the  death  of  Kauikeouli  terminated  the  struggle  in 
favour  of  his  rival. 

The  circumstances  attending  his  death  were  singular. 

Keeaumoku,  (the  father  of  Kaahumanu,  Piia,  and  Kuakini,  present 
governor  Hawaii,)  Tamehameha's  principal  general,  with  a  few  of 
his  companions,  had  advanced  a  considerable  distance  beyond  the 
main  body  of  his  warriors,  and  was  completely  surrounded  by  Kau- 
ikeouli 's  men. 

After  defending  themselves  for  some  time  against  superior  numbers, 
all  the  associates  of  Keeaumoku  were  slain,  he  himself  was  danger- 
ously wounded  by  a  number  of  stabs  with  the  pahoa,  (the  pahoa  is  a 
dagger,  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  long,  made  of  wood  or 
iron,)  and  fell  in  the  midst  of  his  foes.  His  enemies  thought  him 
mortally  wounded,  and  were  proceeding  to  despoil  him  of  his  orna- 
ments, &c. 

HOW    THE    BATTLE    WAS    WON. 

Kauikeouli  approached,  and  called  out  to  them  to  take  care  of  the 
paraoa,  a  finely  polished  ornament,  made  of  a  whale 's  tooth,  highly 
valued  by  the  natives,  and  worn  on  the  breast  suspended  by  a  neck- 
lace of  curiously  braided  human  hair,  stooping  down  himself  at  the 
same  time  to  untie  it. 

Keeaumoku,  recovering  from  a  swoon,  and  seeing  Kauikeouli  bend- 
ing over  him,  made  a  sudden  spring,  and  grasped  him  round  his  neck, 
or  (as  some  of  the  natives  say)  by  his  long  flowing  hair,  and  being  a 


109 

man  of  uncommon  stature  and  strength,  held  him  down.  Kauikeouli 
endeavoured,  but  in  vain,  to  extricate  himself  from  his  grasp. 

At  this  instant,  Tamehameha  and  his  attendants,  having  heard  that 
Keeaumoku  had  fallen,  hastened  to  the  spot,  and  one  of  them,  Nari- 
maerua,  perceiving  the  situation  of  Kauikeouli,  rushed  forward,  and 
ran  a  spear  through  his  body;  another  stabbed  him  with  a  pahoa. 
He  fell  upon  the  body  of  Keeaumoku,  and  instantly  expired. 

Keoua,  his  uncle,  who  fought  near  him,  was  about  the  same  time 
wounded  in  the  thigh  by  a  spear,  and  obliged  to  quit  the  field. 

KAMEHAMEHA  REMAINED  MASTER. 

As  soon  as  the  death  of  Kauikeouli  was  known,  a  panic  spread 
through  his  men,  and  they  quickly  fled  in  every  direction.  Many 
jumped  into  the  sea,  and  swam  to  some  canoes  lying  off  the  place,  and 
the  rest  fled  to  the  mountains  or  the  adjoining  puhonua  (place  of 
refuge)  at  Honaunau,  about  four  miles  distant.  Among  these  was 
Karaimoku,  then  a  youth,  now  principal  chief  in  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

Looking  one  day  at  the  drawing  I  had  made  of  the  puhonua,  he 
pointed  with  his  finger  to  the  place  by  which  he  entered  when  fleeing 
thither  for  protection. 

Tamehameha  now  remained  master  of  the  field,  and  before  evening 
reached  Honaunau,  the  former  residence  of  the  vanquished  chiefs. 

The  scene  of  this  sanguinary  engagement  was  a  large  tract  of  rugged 
lava,  the  whole  superficies  of  which  had  been  broken  up  by  an  earth- 
quake. 

SCENES    OF    THE    CONFLICT. 

Since  leaving  Keei,  we  had  seen  several  heaps  of  stones  raised  over 
the  bones  of  the  slain,  but  they  now  became  much  more  numerous. 

As  we  passed  along,  our  guide  pointed  out  the  place  where  Tairi, 
Tamehameha 's  war-god,  stood,  surrounded  by  the  priests,  and,  a  little 
further  on,  he  shewed  us  the  place  where  Tamehameha  himself,  his 
sisters,  and  friends,  fought  during  the  early  part  of  the  eighth  day. 

A  few  minutes  after  we  had  left  it,  we  reached  a  large  heap  of 
stones  overgrown  with  moss,  which  marks  the  spot  where  Kauikeouli 
was  slain. 

The  numerous  piles  of  stones  which  we  saw  in  every  direction,  con- 
vinced us  that  the  number  of  those  who  fell  on  both  sides  must  have 
been  considerable. 

HAWAII  A   SCENE   OF  CONSTANT  WARFARE. 

The  Sandwich  Islands,  like  many  other  parts  of  the  world,  have 
frequently  felt  the  cruel  scourge  of  war.  Their  traditionary  history, 
so  far  as  we  have  been  able  to  trace  it,  is  distinguished  by  nothing 
bo  much  as  accounts  of  the  murderous  and  plundering  expeditions  of 


110 

one  island  against  another,  or  the  sanguinary  battles  between  the  in- 
habitants of  different  parts  of  the  same  island. 

The  whole  group  have  seldom,  if  ever,  been  united  under  one  author- 
ity; but,  in  general,  separate  governments,  and  independent  kings  or 
chiefs,  have  existed  in  each  of  the  large  islands;  and  sometimes  the 
six  great  divisions  of  Hawaii  have  been  under  as  many  distinct  rulers 
or  chieftains. 

Their  inclinations  or  interests  often  interfered,  and  almost  every  dis- 
pute terminated  in  an  appeal  to  arms.  Indeed,  a  pretext  for  war  was 
seldom  wanting,  when  one  party  thought  themselves  sufficiently  pow- 
erful to  invade  with  success  the  territories  of  their  neighbours,  and 
plunder  their  property. 

HAWAIIAN    METHOD    OF    WARFARE. 

Their  modes  of  warfare  must,  therefore,  necessarily  exhibit  much 
of  their  national  character;  and  having  in  the  course  of  the  narrative 
already  had  occasion  to  describe  two  of  their  battles,  some  account 
of  their  system  of  war  will  probably  be  acceptable  in  this  place. 

Their  armies  were  composed  of  individuals  from  every  rank  in 
society. 

There  was  no  distinct  class  of  men  trained  exclusively  to  the  use 
of  arms,  and  warriors  by  profession,  yet  there  have  always  been  men 
celebrated  for  their  courage  and  martial  achievements;  and  there  are 
many  now  living,  who  distinguished  themselves  by  deeds  of  valour 
and  strength  in  the  frequent  wars  which  were  carried  on  during  the 
former  part  of  the  late  Tamehameha's  reign;  men  who  left  their 
peaceful  home  and  employment,  as  agriculturalists  or  fishermen,  to 
follow  his  fortunes  in  the  field,  and  resumed  their  former  pursuits  on 
the  cessation  of  hostilities. 

HAWAIIAN  WEAPONS   OF  WAR. 

Before  the  introduction  of  fire-arms  and  gunpowder,  almost  all  the 
men  were  taught  to  use  the  various  weapons  employed  in  battle,  and 
frequently  engaged  in  martial  exercises  or  warlike  games. 

One  of  the  exercises  consisted  in  slinging  stones  at  a  mark.  They 
threw  stones  with  great  force  and  precision,  and  are  supposed  to 
have  been  able  to  strike  a  small  stick  at  fifty  yards'  distance,  four 
times  out  of  five. 

They  also  practised  throwing  the  javelin,  and  catching  and  re- 
turning those  thrown  at  them,  or  warding  them  off  so  as  to  avoid 
receiving  any  injury.  In  this  latter  exercise,  they  excelled  to  an 
astonishing  degree. 

"We  know  some  men  who  have  stood  and  allowed  six  men  to  throw 
their  javelins  at  them,  which  they  would  either  catch,  and  return  on 


Ill 

their  assailants,  or  so  dexterously  turn  aside,  that  they  fell  harmless 
to  the  ground. 

WRESTLING    MATCHES    AND    SHAM    FIGHTS. 

Wrestling  was  also  practised  by  the  more  athletic  youth,  as  a  prep- 
aration to  the  single  combats  usual  in  almost  every  battle. 

Sometimes  they  had  sham  fights,  when  large  numbers  engaged,  and 
each  party  advanced  and  retreated,  attacked  and  defended,  and  exer- 
cised all  the  maneuvres  employed  in  actual  engagement. 

Admirably  constituted  by  nature  with  fine-formed  bodies,  supple 
joints,  strong  and  active  limbs,  accustomed  also  to  a  light  and  cum- 
berless  dress,  they  took  great  delight  in  these  gymnastic  and  warlike 
exercises,  and  in  the  practice  of  them  spent  no  inconsiderable  portion 
of  their  time. 

CONSULTING    DIVINERS    CONCERNING    WAR. 

"Whenever  war  was  in  contemplation,  the  poe  kiro  (diviners  and 
priests)  were  directed  to  slay  the  accustomed  victims,  and  consult  the 
gods.  Animals  only  were  used  on  these  occasions,  generally  hogs  and 
fowls. 

The  priests  offered  their  prayers  and  the  diviners  sacrificed  the  vic- 
tims, observed  the  manner  in  which  they  expired,  the  appearance  of 
their  entrails,  and  other  signs. 

Sometimes,  when  the  animal  was  slain,  they  embowelled  it,  took  out 
the  spleen,  and,  holding  it  in  their  hands,  offered  their  prayers.  If 
they  did  not  receive  an  answer,  war  was  deferred.  They  also  slept  in 
the  temple  where  the  gods  were  kept,  and,  after  the  war-god  had 
revealed  his  will  by  a  vision  or  dream,  or  some  other  supernatural 
means,  they  communicated  it  to  the  king  and  warriors,  and  war  was 
either  determined  or  relinquished  accordingly. 

HUMAN    SACRIFICES. 

If  the  expedition  in  contemplation  was  of  any  magnitude  or  im- 
portance, or  the  danger  which  threatened  imminent,  human  sacrifices 
were  offered,  to  ensure  the  co-operation  of  the  war-gods  in  the  destruc- 
tion of  their  enemies. 

They  do  not  appear  to  have  imagined  these  gods  exerted  any  pro- 
tecting influence  over  their  devotees,  but  that  their  presence  and  their 
power  destroyed  the  courage  and  strength  of  their  enemies,  and  filled 
their  hearts  with  terror  and  dismay. 

Sometimes  the  priests  proposed  that  human  victims  should  be  slain; 
sometimes  the  gods  themselves  were  said  to  require  them,  to  promise 
victory  on  condition  of  their  being  offered,  and  at  other  times  they 
were  slain  after  having  consulted  the  gods  as  their  oracle,  and   not 


112 

having  received  a  favourable  answer,  they  were  desirous  to  consult 
tli I'm  again  before  they  abandoned  the  enterprise. 

METHOD    OP    OBTAINING    HUMAN    SACRIFICES    AND    OF    KILLING. 

If  any  of  their  enemies  had  been  taken  captive,  the  victims  were 
elected  from  among  their  number;  if  not,  individuals  who  had  broken 
tabu,  or  rendered  themselves  obnoxious  to  the  chiefs,  were  fixed  upon. 

A  message  was  sent  to  the  chief  under  whose  authority  they  were, 
and  at  the  appointed  time  he  sent  his  men,  who  generally  despatched 
them  with  a  stone  or  club,  without  any  notice,  and  then  carried  them 
away  to  the  temple. 

Sometimes  they  were  bound  and  taken  alive  to  the  heiau,  and  slain 
in  the  outer  court,  immediately  before  being  placed  on  the  altar. 

It  does  not  appear  that  they  were  slain  in  the  idol's  presence,  or 
within  the  temple,  but  either  on  the  outside  or  at  the  place  where 
they  were  first  taken;  in  both  cases  they  appear  to  have  endeavoured 
to  preserve  the  body  entire,  or  mangled  as  little  as  possible. 

The  victims  were  generally  despatched  by  a  blow  on  the  head  with, 
a  club  or  stone;  sometimes,  however,  they  were  stabbed. 

The  number  offered  at  a  time  varied  according  to  circumstances, 
two,  four,  or  seven,  or  ten,  or  even  twenty,  we  have  been  informed, 
have  been  offered  at  once. 

When  carried  into  the  temple,  every  article  of  clothing  they  might 
have  on  was  taken  off,  and  they  were  laid  in  a  row  with  their  faces 
downwards,  on  the  altar  immediately  before  the  idol. 

The  priest  then,  in  a  kind  of  prayer,  offered  them  to  the  gods;  and 
if  any  offerings  of  hogs  were  presented  at  the  same  time,  they  were 
afterwards  piled  upon  them,  lying  at  right  angles  across  the  human 
bodies,  where  the  whole  were  left  to  rot  and  putrefy  together. 

APPROBATION    OF   GODS   PRELIMINARY   TO    WAR. 

War  was  seldom  declared  without  the  approbation  of  the  gods,  ob- 
tained through  the  medium  of  the  priests,  though  it  is  probable  the 
answer  of  the  diviners  was  given  with  due  regard  to  the  previously 
known  views  of  the  king  and  chiefs. 

Sometimes  the  question  of  war  or  peace  was  deliberated  in  a 
public  meeting  of  chiefs  and  warriors,  and  these  popular  assemblies 
furnished  occasion  for  the  most  powerful  displays  of  native  eloquence 
which,  though  never  present  at  one  of  these  councils,  we  should  think, 
from  the  specimens  we  have  heard  repeated,  was,  like  that  of  their 
neighbours  of  the  southern  isles,  at  once  bold  in  sentiment,  beautiful 
in  imagery,  and  powerful  in  effect. 


113 

AN  ELOQUENT  ADDRESS. 

I  never  was  more  deeply  affected  than  by  the  parting  address  of  a 
warrior  in  the  South  Sea  Islands,  when  he  was  taking  leave  of  his 
friends,  before  going,  as  he  expected,  to  battle. 

Nothing  can  surpass  their  efforts  on  some  of  these  occasions,  when 
their  addresses  abound  with  figures  like  the  following: 

"Our  ranks  are  rocks  in  the  ocean,  unmoved  by  the  dashing  waves; 
each  warrior  moves  a  sea  porcupine,  whom  none  dare  handle. 

"Let  the  king's  troops  advance,  and  they  shall  rise  before  his 
enemies  as  the  lofty  breadfruit  rises  before  the  slender  grass. 

"In  the  combat  the  warrior  shall  stand  like  the  deep-rooted  palm, 
and  nod  over  the  heads  of  their  enemies,  as  the  tall  cocoa-nut  nods 
over  the  bending  reed." 

On  urging  the  attack  by  night, 

"Our  torches'  glare  shall  surprise  them  like  the  lightning's  flash; 
and  our  shouts,  in  the  instantaneous  onset,  terrify  like  bursting 
thunder." 

The  effect  was  greatly  heightened  by  the  conciseness  of  their  lan- 
guage, and  the  euphony  with  which  it  abounds;  and  probably  on  one 
side  of  the  place  where  they  were  assembled,  the  rocks  arose,  and  the 
waves  dashed;  while  on  the  other,  groves  of  stately  bread-fruit  trees 
appeared,  or  towering  cocoa-nuts,  seventy  or  eighty  feet  high,  waved 
over  their  heads. 

METHOD    OF    PREPARATION    FOR    WAR. 

When  war  was  declared,  the  king  and  warrior  chiefs,  together  with 
the  priests,  fixed  the  time  and  place  for  commencing,  and  the  manner 
of  carrying  it  on. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  Eunapai  (messengers  of  war)  were  sent  to  the 
districts  and  villages  under  their  authority,  to  require  the  services  of 
their  tenants,  in  numbers  proportionate  to  the  magnitude  of  the  ex- 
pedition. 

These  were  ordered  to  come  with  their  weapons,  candle  nuts  for 
torches,  light  calabashes  for  water,  dried  fish,  or  other  portable  pro- 
visions. 

The  summons  was  in  general  obeyed  with  alacrity,  and  as  their 
spears,  clubs,  juvelins,  and  slings,  were  usually  suspended  in  some 
convenient  part  of  every  house,  they  armed  with  these,  and  soon 
joined  the  forces  at  the  appointed  rendezvous. 

When  the  people  en  masse  were  required,  the  Tuahaua  was  sent, 
whose  office  it  was  to  bring  every  individual  capable  of  bearing  arms. 

TREATMENT    OF    SHIRKERS. 

Sometimes  the  Uruoki,  another  officer,  was  afterwards  despatched; 
and  if  be  found  any  lingering  behind  who  oufjht  to  have  been  with  the 


114 

army,  he  cut  or  slit  one  of  their  ears,  tied  a  rope  round  their  body, 
and  in  this  manner  led  them  to  the  camp. 

To  remain  at  home  when  summoned  to  the  field,  was  considered  so 
disgraceful,  the  circumstances  attending  detection  so  humiliating,  and 
the  mark  of  cowardice,  with  which  it  was  punished,  so  indelible,  that 
it  was  seldom  necessary  to  send  round  the  last-named  officer. 

These  messengers  of  war  were  sometimes  called  Rere,  a  word  which 
signifies  to  fly,  probably  from  the  rapidity  with  which  they  conveyed 
the  orders  of  the  chiefs.  They  generally  travelled  at  a  running  pace,, 
and,  in  cases  of  emergency,  are  reported  to  have  gone  round  the  island 
of  Hawaii  in  eight  or  nine  days;  a  distance  which,  including  the  cir- 
cuitous route  they  would  take  to  call  at  different  villages,  exceeds 
three  hundred  miles. 

When  the  different  parties  arrived  at  the  place  of  rendezvous,  the 
chief  of  the  division  or  district,  with  some  of  inferior  rank,  waited  on 
the  king  or  commanding  chief,  and  reported  the  number  of  warriors 
they  had  brought. 

AN    ENCAMPMENT — CHARACTER    OP    BATTLE    FIELDS. 

They  then  selected  a  spot  for  their  encampment,  and  erected  their 
Hare-pai  or  Auoro,  in  which  they  abode  till  the  army  was  collected. 

The  former  were  small  huts,  built  with  cocoa-nut  leaves,  or  boughs 
and  green  ti  leaves,  which  each  party  or  family  erected  for  their  own 
accommodation,  around  that  of  their  chief;  and  thus  formed  a  small 
encampment  by  themselves. 

The  latter  was  a  large  open  building,  constructed  with  the  same 
materials,  in  which  the  chief  and  his  warriors  all  dwelt  together. 

Their  camp  was  near  an  open  space,  and  they  generally  selected  the 
most  broken  and  uneven  ground,  frequently  rugged  tracts  of  lava,  as 
their  fields  of  battle. 

Sometimes  they  encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  river,  or  deep  ravine, 
which  lying  between  them  and  their  enemies,  secured  them  from  sud- 
den attack.  But  they  do  not  appear  to  have  thrown  up  lines  or  other 
artificial  barriers  around  their  camp;  they  did  not,  however,  neglect 
to  station  piquets  at  all  the  passes  by  which  they  were  likely  to  be 
approached. 

FORTS   AND  REFUGES. 

Each  party  usually  had  a  pari  or  pa-kaua,  natural  or  artificial 
fortress,  where  they  left  their  wives  and  children,  and  to  which  they 
fled  if  vanquished  in  the  field. 

These  fortresses  were  either  eminences  of  difficult  ascent,  and,  by 
walling  up  the  avenues  leading  to  them,  sometimes  rendered  inaccessi- 
ble; or  they  were  extensive  enclosures,  including  a  cave,  or  spring, 
or  other  natural  means  of  sustenance  or  security. 


115 

The  stone  walls  around  the  forts  were  composed  of  large  blocks  of 
lava,  laid  up  solid,  but  without  cement,  sometimes  eighteen  feet  high, 
and  nearly  twenty  feet  thick.  On  the  tops  of  these  walls  the  warriors 
fought  with  slings  and  stones,  or  with  spears  and  clubs  repelled  their 
assailants. 

"When  their  pari  was  an  eminence,  after  they  had  closed  the  avenues, 
they  collected  large  stones  and  fragments  of  rock  on  the  edges  of  the 
precipices  overhanging  the  paths  leading  to  the  fortification,  which 
they  rolled  down  on  the  heads  of  their  enemies. 

NAVAL   BATTLES. 

Sometimes  they  engaged  in  fleets  amounting  to  upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred canoes  on  each  side. 

At  a  distance  they  fought  with  slings  and  stones,  and  other  mis- 
siles, and,  at  close  quarters,  with  club  and  spear. 

Their  fleets  were  not  lashed  together  like  those  of  the  Society 
islanders. 

The  Sandwich  Islands  not  being  surrounded  with  coral  reefs,  there 
is  but  little  smooth  water;  and  the  roughness  of  the  sea,  most  likely, 
induced  them  generally  to  select  terra  firma  for  their  theatre  of  war. 

FIGHTING   IN   OPEN,    BY   DAY — ORDER   OF   BATTLE. 

They  do  not  appear  to  have  practised  many  stratagems  in  war,  sel- 
dom laid  ambushes,  generally  sought  open  warfare,  and  but  rarely 
attacked  in  the  night. 

Whenever  they  expected  an  action,  they  proceeded  to  hoonoho  ka 
kaua,  (fix  the  war,  or  set  their  army  in  battle  array,)  for  which  they 
had  a  regular  system,  and  adopted  various  methods  for  attack  and 
defence,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  ground,  force  of  the  enemy,  &c. 

When  about  to  engage  in  an  open  plain,  their  army,  drawn  up  for 
battle,  consisted  of  a  centre  and  wings,  the  latter  considerably  in 
advance,  and  the  line  curved  in  form  of  a  crescent. 

The  slingers,  and  those  who  threw  the  javelin,  were  in  general  dis- 
tributed through  the  whole  line. 

Every  chief  led  his  own  men  to  battle,  and  took  his  position  accord- 
ing to  the  orders  of  the  commanding  chieftain,  whose  station  was 
always  in  the  centre. 

The  king  generally  commanded  in  person,  or  that  authority  was 
exercised  by  the  highest  chief  among  the  warriors;  occasionally, 
however,  a  chief  inferior  in  rank,  but  distinguished  by  courage,  or 
military  talents  and  address,  has  been  raised  to  the  supreme  com- 
mand. 

When  they  fought  in  a  defile,  or  narrow  pass,  they  advanced  in  a 
single  column. 


116 

The  first  division,  or  advanced  guard,  was  called  the  verau,  or  point, 
tho  name  they  also  give  to  a  bayonet.  The  other  parts  of  the  column 
were  called  by  different  names;  the  pohivi,  or  shoulder,  was  gen- 
erally considered  the  strongest  section.  The  chief  who  commanded 
was  in  the  centre. 

DESCRIPTION  'OF   WEAPONS. 

Their  weapons  consisted  of  the  pololu,  a  spear  made  of  hard  wood, 
from  sixteen  to  twenty  feet  long,  and  pointed  at  one  end.  The  ihe, 
or  javelin,  about  six  feet  in  length,  made  of  a  species  of  hard  red 
wood,  resembling  mahogany,  called  kauira,  pointed  and  barbed.  The 
raau  parau,  a  weapon  eight  or  nine  feet  long,  between  a  club  and 
spear,  somewhat  resembling  a  halbert,  with  which  they  were  accus- 
tomed to  thrust  or  strike,  and  the  pahoa,  or  dagger,  eighteen  inches 
or  two  feet  in  length,  made  of  the  hard  wood,  sometimes  pointed 
at  both  ends,  and  having  a  string  attached  to  the  handle,  which 
passed  round  the  wrist  to  prevent  their  losing  it  in  action. 

Besides  these,  they  employed  the  sling,  and  their  stones  were  very 
destructive.  The  slings  were  made  of  human  hair,  plaited,  or  the 
elastic  fibres  of  the  cocoa-nut  husk ;  the  stones  they  employed  were, 
about  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg,  generally  ponderous  pieces  of  compact 
lava,  from  the  bed  of  a  stream  or  the  sea-beach,  where  they  had  been 
worn  smooth  by  the  action  of  the  water. 

NO    SHIELDS— WAR    DRESS. 

They  had  no  shields  or  weapons  of  defence,  except  the  javelin,  which 
they  used  in  warding  off  those  that  might  be  thrown  at  them;  they 
were  very  expert  in  avoiding  a  stone,  if  they  saw  it  thrown,  and  the 
spearmen  excelled  in  parrying  the  thrusts  of  their  enemies'  spears. 

The  warriors  seldom  went  to  battle  with  any  other  dress  than  a 
maro  or  narrow  girdle  round  their  loins. 

Some,  however,  wore  a  quantity  of  cloth  bound  round  their  head, 
which  was  called  ahupoonui,  and  the  chiefs  were  frequently  dressed 
in  their  war-cloaks  and  helmets. 

HELMETS    AND    CLOAKS. 

The  cloaks,  though  they  gave  the  wearers  an  imposing  appearance, 
must  have  proved  an  incumbrance,  without  affording  much  protection. 

Some  of  the  helmets  were  made  of  close  wicker-work,  exactly  fitted 
the  head,  and  were  ornamented  along  the  crown.  But  those  worn  by 
the  high  chiefs  only,  and  called  mahiori,  though  not  more  useful,  were 
peculiarly  beautiful.  They  were  made  in  the  form  of  the  Grecian 
helmet,  with  towering  crest,  and  were  thickly  covered  with  the  glossy 
red  and  yellow  feathers  of  a  small  paroquet  found  in  the  mountains, 


117 

(with  whose  feathers  the  war-cloaks  are  also  ornamented,)  and  though 
they  did  not  appear  adapted  to  defend  the  head,  any  more  than  the 
cloaks  were  to  guard  the  body,  they  increased  the  effect  of  the  tower- 
ing height  and  martial  air  of  the  chiefs,  whose  stature  was  generally 
above  that  of  the  common  people. 

The  long  cloaks  reaching  to  the  knees,  or  even  to  the  ancles,  were 
worn  only  by  the  king  and  principal  chiefs. 

The  royal  colour  was  yellow,  and  no  one  besides  the  king  was 
allowed  to  wear  a  cloak  made  entirely  of  yellow  feathers.  Those  of 
the  other  chiefs  were  of  red  and  yellow  rhomboidal  figures  intermin- 
gled or  disposed  in  alternate  lines,  with  sometimes  a  section  of  dark 
purple  or  glossy  black. 

Tippets  were  manufactured  of  the  same  materials,  and  worn  by 
the  inferior  chiefs,  or  some  of  the  principal  warriors,  whose  rank  did 
not  entitle  them  to  wear  the  cloak. 

In  addition  to  the  helmet  and  cloak,  the  high  chiefs  occasionally 
wore  a  paraoa,  or  other  ornament,  like  a  breastplate,  suspended  from 
the  neck  by  finely  braided  strings  of  human  hair. 

PRELIMINARIES    AND    DETAILS    OF    BATTLE. 

The  diviners  were  consulted  immediately  before  they  engaged; 
they  slew  their  victims,  noticed  also  the  face  of  the  heavens,  the 
passage  of  clouds  over  the  sun,  the  appearance  of  the  rainbow;  and, 
if  they  augured  well,  the  principal  war-god  was  brought  out  in  the 
front  of  the  whole  army,  and  placed  near  the  king. 

The  priest  then  addressed  a  prayer  to  the  gods,  urged  them  to  exer- 
cise their  power,  and  prove  themselves,  in  the  ensuing  engagement, 
mightier  than  the  gods  of  their  enemies;  promising,  at  the  same  time, 
hecatombs  of  victims  in  the  event  of  victory. 

The  king,  or  commander-in-chief,  now  addressed  the  assembled  war- 
riors; and  if  they  were  to  attack,  gave  the  signal  for  the  hoouta,  or 
onset,  and  they  rushed  to  hui,  or  mix  in  fight. 

They  did  not  employ  any  banners  or  colours,  but  in  their  warlike 
expeditions  were  attended  by  their  idols. 

FUNCTIONS  OF  THE  BATTLE  GODS. 

The  national  war-god  was  elevated  above  the  ranks,  and  carried 
by  the  priest  near  the  person  of  the  king,  or  commander-in-chief. 
Nor  was  this  the  only  idol  borne  to  the  battle:  other  chiefs  of  rank 
had  their  war-gods  carried  near  them  by  their  priest;  and  if  the  king 
or  chief  was  killed  or  taken,  the  god  himself  was  usually  captured 
also. 

The  presence  of  their  deities  inspired  the  warriors  with  courage, 
who  supposed  their  influence  essential  to  victory. 


118 

A  description  of  Tairi  has  already  been  given,  and  lie  may  be 
taken  as  a  sample;  the  image  was  four  or  five  feet  high,  the  upper 
part  wicker-work,  covered  with  red  feathers,  the  face  a  hideous  form, 
the  mouth  armed  with  triple  rows  of  dog's  or  shark's  teeth,  the  eyes 
of  mother  of  pearl,  the  head  crowned  with  a  helmet,  the  crest  some- 
times formed  of  long  tresses  of  human  hair.  They  were  fixed  on  a 
small  pillar  or  pedestal;  were  sometimes  carried  by  the  priests,  or 
placed  on  the  ground,  upheld  and  defended  by  them. 

APPEARANCE    OF    THE    PRIEST    HEVAIIEVA. 

We  have  often  conversed  with  Hevaheva,  the  priest  of  Tameha- 
meha's  war-god,  and  though  there  is  nothing  naturally  repulsive  in 
his  countenance,  we  have  been  told,  that,  in  the  battle,  he  often  dis- 
torted his  face  into  every  frightful  form,  and  uttered  most  terrific 
and  appalling  yells,  which  were  supposed  to  proceed  from  the  god  he 
bore  or  attended. 

At  times  the  whole  army,  except  the  reserve,  engaged  at  once,  but 
their  battles  were  most  commonly  a  succession  of  skirmishes,  or  partial 
engagements. 

SINGLE    COMBAT    NOT   UNUSUAL. 

The  hooparau,  single  combat,  was  not  unusual.  A  haughty  and 
boastful  warrior  would  advance  beyond  the  line  of  his  companions, 
and  toho  or  aa,  (insult,)  in  opprobrious  terms  the  whole  army  of  his 
enemies. 

A  warrior  from  that  army  would  hasten  to  meet  him,  and  the 
encounter  was  continued  till  one  was  disabled  or  slain. 

We  do  not  know  whether,  like  the  Grecian  heroes,  these  combatants 
addressed  each  other  before  engaging  in  the  mortal  strife,  as  did  their 
neighbours  in  the  southern  seas.  There  the  challenger,  when  he  beheld 
his  antagonist  approaching,  would  exclaim: 

"Who  are  you,  that  come  to  contend  with  me? — I  am  so  and  so, 
who  slew  such  a  one,  whose  name  is  famous  to  the  farthest  of  these 
islands;  the  son  of  such  a  one,  who  achieved  such  an  action:  are  you 
come  to  add  to  our  fame?"  &c.  &c. 

The  other  would  answer,  "I  am  such  a  one,  the  son  of  so  and  so, 
who  performed  such  an  action,  celebrated  in  every  island."  And  after 
much  more  rhodomontade,  one  would  ask  the  other: 

"Know  you  how  to  lift  the  spear?"  or  club;  and  immediately  com- 
mence the  combat. 

We  are  not  certain,  but  think  it  probable,  that,  like  the  Society 
Islanders,  they  had  orators,  whose  duty  it  was  to  go  through  the 
camp,  and  through  the  ranks,  on  the  day  of  battle,  stimulating  the 
men,  by  reciting,  with  most  violent  gesticulations,  the  warlike  deeds 


119 

of    their   ancestors,    and    the    victories   their    island    or    district    had 
formerly  obtained. 

Their  battles  were  with  confused  noise,  and  boastful  shouts. 

BRUTAL  BATTLE  ETHICS. 

The  first  that  either  party  slew,  they  called  erehua;  frequently  the 
victor  jumped  upon  the  expiring  body,  or,  spurning  it  contemptu- 
ously, dedicated  its  spirit  to  his  gods.  He  then  cut  or  tore  off  the 
hair  from  the  top  of  the  forehead,  and,  elevating  it  in  the  air, 
shouted  aloud,  He  oho,  a  frontlet;  and  if  it  was  a  chief  or  warrior  of 
note  he  had  slain,  his  name  was  added. 

He  oho!  He  oho!  was  reiterated  through  the  ranks  of  the  victor, 
while  he  despoiled  the  fallen  warrior  of  his  ornaments,  and  then 
dragged  the  heana,  slain  body,  to  the  king,  or  the  priest,  who,  in  a 
short  address,  offered  the  victim  to  his  god. 

The  first  offering  they  called  urukoko,  increasing  blood. 

The  second  slain  was  called  maka-wai,  face  of  water,  and  the  third 
herua-oni,  sand-dug.  They  were  all  likewise  brought  and  offered  to 
the  gods  on  the  field. 

Their  conflicts  were  sometimes  continued  for  several  successive  days 
before  either  army  retreated;  and,  on  some  occasions,  both  parties 
discontinued  the  contest  as  if  by  mutual  consent,  from  despair  of 
victory,  or  an  evil  omen  revealed  by  the  diviners.  Such  a  battle 
was  called  rukurua,  both  beaten.  This,  however,  was  a  rare  occur- 
rence; they  generally  fought  till  one  of  the  armies  was  vanquished 
and  fled. 

NO   MERCY  TO  VANQUISHED. 

When  routed  in  the  field,  some  fled  to  the  pahu  tapu,  sacred  en- 
closure, called  also  puhonua,  or  place  of  refuge;  others  repaired  to 
their  pari  or  fortress;  and  when  these  were  distant,  or  the  way  to 
them  intercepted,  they  all  fled  to  the  mountains,  whither  they  were 
pursued  by  the  victors  for  weeks,  and  even  months,  afterwards. 

When  discovered,  they  were  cruelly  massacred  on  the  spot,  or 
brought  down  to  the  king  and  chiefs. 

When  led  to  the  king's  presence,  they  usually  prostrated  them- 
selves before  him,  and  exclaimed,  "E  make  paha,  e  ora  paha, — i 
runa  te  aro?  i  raro  te  aro?"  To  die  perhaps,  to  live  perhaps, — 
upwards  the  face?  or  downwards  the  face? 

If  the  king  did  not  speak,  or  said  "The  face  down,"  it  was  sentence 
of  death,  and  some  one  in  attendance  either  despatched  the  poor  cap- 
tive in  his  presence,  or  led  him  away  to  be  slaughtered.  But  if  the 
king  said,  "Upward  the  face,"  they  were  spared,  though  perhaps 
spared  only  to  bo  slaves,  or  to  be  sacrificed  when  the  priests  should 
require  human  victims. 


120 

CAPTIVES    PROPERTY    OP    VICTORS. 

The  persons  of  the  captives  were  the  property  of  the  victors,  and 
their  lives  entirely  at  their  disposal. 

A  chief  taken  in  the  field,  or  during  the  retreat,  was  sometimes 
spared,  and  allowed  to  return  to  his  home. 

The  victors  usually  buried  their  dead;  but  the  bodies  of  the  slain, 
belonging  to  the  vanquished,  were  generally  left  unburied  on  the 
field,  and  were  devoured  by  hogs  and  dogs,  or  suffered  to  rot.  Small 
heaps  of  stones  were  afterwards  piled  over  their  bones,  or  on  the 
spot   where  they  had   fallen,   probably   as   trophies   of   victory. 

APPEALS   FOR   MERCY. 

When  the  king  or  any  chief  of  high  rank  was  known  to  be  humane, 
or  any  of  the  vanquished  had  formerly  been  on  terms  of  friendship 
with  him,  avoiding  carefully  the  warriors,  an  individual,  risking  his 
life  on  the  conqueror's  clemency,  would  lie  in  wait  for  him  in  his 
walks,  and  prostrating  himself  in  his  path,  supplicate  his  compas- 
sion, or  rush  into  his  house,  and  throw  himself  on  the  ground  before 
him. 

Though  any  one  might  have  killed  him,  while  on  his  way  thither, 
none  dare  touch  him  within  the  king's  enclosure,  without  his  orders. 

When  the  king  did  not  speak,  or  directed  the  fugitive  to  be  car- 
ried from  his  presence,  which  was  very  unusual,  he  was  taken  out 
and  slain. 

Generally  the  prince  spoke  to  the  individual  who  had  thus  thrown 
himself  into  his  power;  and  if  he  did  but  speak,  or  only  recognize 
him,  he  was  secure.  He  might  either  join  the  retinue  of  the  sov- 
ereign, or  return  to  his  own  house.  No  one  would  molest  him,  as  he 
was  under  maru,  shade,  or  screening  protection  of  the  king. 

These  individuals,  influenced  by  feelings  of  gratitude,  generally 
attached  themselves  to  the  persons  or  interest  of  the  prince  by  whom 
they  had  been  saved,  and  frequently  proved,  through  subsequent  life, 
the  most  faithful  attendants  on  his  person,  and  steady  adhei-ents  to 
his  cause. 

REAPPORTIONMENT    OP   LANDS    AFTER   WAR. 

When  the  vanquished  were  completely  routed,  or  nearly  cut  off, 
their  country  was  hoopahora,  portioned  out,  by  the  conqueror,  among 
the  chiefs  and  warriors  who  had  been  his  companions  in  the  war,  by 
whom  it  was  settled. 

The  wives  and  children  of  those  whom  they  had  defeated  were  fre- 
quently made  slaves,  and  attached  to  the  soil  for  its  cultivation,  and, 
together  with  the  captives,  treated  with  great  cruelty.  But  when 
there  had  been  a  great  loss  on  both  sides,  or  one  party  wished  for 


121 

peace,  an  ambassador  with  a  young  plantain  tree,  and  a  green  branch 
of  the  ti  plant,  was  sent  with  proposals  for  peace.  If  they  were 
accepted,  the  preliminaries  were  arranged,  and  the  chiefs  and  priests 
of  both  parties  met  to  adjust  the  particulars. 

METHOD    OF    SETTLEMENT    OP    PEACE    TERMS. 

When  the  conditions  of  peace  were  agreed  to,  they  all  repaired  to 
the  temple.  There  a  pig  was  slain,  its  blood  caught  in  a  vessel,  and 
afterwards  poured  on  the  ground,  probably  to  signify  that  thus  it 
should  be  done  to  those  who  broke  the  treaty.  A  wreath  of  mairi, 
a  sweet-scented  plant,  was  then  woven  by  the  leading  chiefs  of  both 
parties,  and  deposited  in  the  temple.  Peace  was  ratified,  feasting, 
dances,  and  public  games  followed.  The  warriors  returned  to  their 
lands,  and  the  king's  heralds  were  sent  round  his  districts  to  an- 
nounce ua  pau  ka  kaua,  ended  is  the  war. 

The  introduction  of  fire-arms,  which  so  soon  followed  the  discovery 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  increased  the  passion  for  conquest  and 
plunder  in  the  minds  of  the  proud  and  turbulent  chiefs  by  whom 
they  were  governed;  and  although  the  recent  introduction  and  par- 
tial reception  of  Christianity  has  not  induced  them  to  discontinue  the 
practice  of  war,  it  has  already  altered  its  ferocious  and  exterminat- 
ing character,  and  the  principles  of  clemency  inculcated  in  the  gospel 
have  been  most  strikingly  exemplified  in  the  humane  conduct  of  the 
chiefs  by  whom  it  has  been  embraced.  After  a  late  civil  war  in 
Tauai,  when  the  captives  were  brought  before  Karaimoku,  the  chief 
against  whom  they  had  rebelled,  he  dismissed  many  of  them  with 
spelling  books,  and  directed  them  to  go  home,  and  dwell  in  peace, 
cultivate  their  lands,  learn  to  read  and  write,  and  worship  the  true 
God. 

EFFECT    OF    CHRISTIANITY    ON   NATIVES. 

There  is  every  reason  to  hope  that  Christianity,  when  more  gen- 
erally received,  will  subdue  their  restless  and  ambitious  spirits;  and 
under  its  influence  they  may  be  expected,  like  the  southern  islanders, 
to  delight  in  the  occupations  of  peace,  and  cease  to  learn  the  art,  or 
find  satisfaction  in  the  practice,  of  war.  Many  most  decisive  and 
pleasing  illustrations  of  the  peaceful  tendency  of  the  principles  of 
the  Bible,  have  been  given  by  the  Southern  Islanders. 

One  of  these  occurred  under  my  own  observation.  In  the  year 
1817  I  visited  the  island  of  Tubuai,  about  300  miles  south  of  Tahiti. 
While  there,  two  or  three  natives  of  the  Paumotu  or  Faliser's  Islands, 
which  lie  to  the  eastward  of  the  Society  Islands,  came  on  board  our 
vessel,  and  asked  the  captain  for  a  passage  to  Tahiti.  He  inquired 
their  business  there?     They  said,  that  some  weeks  before,  they  left 


122 

Tahiti,  whither  they  had  been  on  a  visit,  to  return  to  their  native 
islands,  but  that  contrary  winds  drifted  their  canoe  out  of  its  course, 
and  they  reached  the  island  of  Tubuai;  that  shortly  after  their  arrival, 
the  natives  of  the  island  attacked  them,  plundered  them  of  their 
property,  and  broke  their  canoe;  that  they  wished  to  go  to  Tahiti, 
and  acquaint  Pomare  with  their  misfortune,  procure  another  canoe, 
and  prosecute  their  original  voyage. 

Two  Europeans,  who  were  on  the  island  at  the  time,  told  me  they 
were  very  peaceable  in  their  behaviour;  that  the  natives  of  Tubuai 
had  attacked  the  strangers  because  they  had  tried  to  persuade  them  to 
cast  away  their  idols,  and  had  told  them  there  was  but  one  true  God, 
viz.  Jehovah. 

Our  captain,  and  some  others  who  were  present,  asked  why  they  did 
not  resist  the  attack?  inquiring,  at  the  same  time,  if  they  were 
averse  to  war;  knowing  that  their  countrymen  were  continually  en- 
gaged in  most  savage  wars,  and  were  also  cannibals. 

WHY    THEY    DID    NOT    FIGHT    BACK. 

They  said  they  had  been  taught  to  delight  in  war,  and  were  not 
afraid  of  the  natives  of  Tubuai;  that  if  they  had  been  heathens,  they 
should  have  fought  them  at  once;  but  that  they  had  been  to  Tahiti, 
and  had  embraced  the  new  religion,  as  they  called  Christianity;  had 
heard  that  Jehovah  commanded  those  who  worshipped  Him  to  do 
no  murder,  and  that  Jesus  Christ  had  directed  his  followers  to  love 
their  enemies;  that  they  feared  it  would  be  displeasing  to  God,  should 
they  have  killed  any  of  the  Tubuaians,  or  even  have  indulged  feel- 
ings of  revenge  towards  them;  adding,  that  they  would  rather  lose 
their  canoe  and  their  property,  than  offend  Jehovah,  or  disregard  the 
directions  of  Jesus  Christ. 

Our  captain  gave  them  a  passage.  Pomare  furnished  them  with  a 
canoe;  they  returned  for  their  companions,  and  subsequently  sailed  to 
their  native  islands. 

When  they  arrived,  they  and  other  natives  of  the  same  islands, 
who  had  also  been  to  Tahiti,  told  their  countrymen  what  they  had 
learned  there,  and  the  changes  they  had  witnessed;  that  Jehovah  was 
the  only  God  recognized  at  Tahiti,  and  that  all  was  peace  and  good 
will. 

God  was  pleased  to  accompany  their  plain  narrative  with  such 
power  to  the  hearts  of  their  countrymen,  that  they  abolished  idolatry, 
erected  places  for  the  public  worship  of  Jehovah,  opened  school- 
houses,  became  professedly  Christian  people;  and  the  cruelties  of 
their  idolatry,  cannibalism,  and  war,  have  ever  since  ceased  among 
them. 


123 

These  natives,  in  all  probability,  had  never  heard  the  question  as  to 
the  lawfulness  or  unlawfulness  of  Christians  engaging  in  war  dis- 
cussed or  even  named,  but  they  had  most  likely  been  taught  to 
commit  to  memory  the  decalogue,  and  our  Lord's  sermon  on  the 
mount,  and  hence  resulted  their  noble  forbearance  at  the  island  of 
Tubuai. 

IN   AND    ABOUT    HONAUNAU. 

Ever  since  Saturday  last,  I  had  suffered  violent  pain,  probably  in- 
duced by  the  bad  water  we  had  been  obliged  to  drink  since  leaving 
Kairua;  and  shortly  after  passing  over  the  battle  ground,  I  found 
myself  too  ill  to  walk  any  further.  I  reclined  about  an  hour  on  the 
rocks  of  lava,  under  the  shade  of  a  small  shrub,  and  then  travelled 
on  slowly  to  Honaunau,  which  I  reached  about  noon. 

The  town  contains  147  houses,  yet  we  could  procure  no  better  accom- 
modation than  what  an  open  house  for  building  canoes  afforded. 
Here  my  companions  spread  a  mat  on  the  ground,  and  I  laid  down, 
grateful  for  the  comfort  the  canoe  shed  afforded,  as  it  screened  me 
from  the  scorching  rays  of  an  almost  vertical  sun. 

Towards  the  evening  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  the  people  of  the 
place,  who  gave  good  attention. 

I  found  myself  much  better  the  next  morning,  but  too  ill  to 
resume  the  journey  that  day. 

A   WELL    CULTIVATED    SECTION. 

After  breakfast,  Messrs.  Thurston  and  Goodrich  examined  the  in- 
land part  of  the  district,  and  found,  after  proceeding  about  two  miles 
from  the  sea,  that  the  ground  was  generally  cultivated. 

They  passed  through  considerable  groves  of  bread-fruit  trees,  saw 
many  cocoa-nuts,  and  numbers  of  the  prickly  pear  (cactus  ficus  indi- 
cus,)  growing  very  large,  and  loaded  with  fruit.  They  also  found 
many  people  residing  at  the  distance  of  from  two  to  four  miles  from 
the  beach,  in  the  midst  of  their  plantations,  who  seemed  to  enjoy  an 
abundance  of  provisions,  seldom  possessed  by  those  on  the  sea  shore. 
They  returned  about  noon. 

Finding  ourselves  in  want  of  cooking  utensils,  and  a  little  tea  and 
Bugar,  which,  in  order  to  lighten  our  baggage,  we  had  left  at  Kairua, 
and  perceiving  our  stock  of  medicines  nearly  expended,  it  was  thought 
best  that  one  of  our  number  should  return  for  them.  Mr.  Thurston 
accordingly  left  Honaunau  in  the  canoe  at  2  p.  m.  and  reached  Kairua 
about  sunset.  He  returned  about  three  the  next  morning,  with  most 
of  the  articles  we  needed. 

The  night  of  the  22d  was  a  restless  one  with  us  all,  on  account  of 
the  swarms  of  vermin  that  infested   our  lodging.     We   should  have 


124 

been   glad   to   have   changed    our   quarters,   but   I    was   not   yet    well 
enough  to  proceed. 

Another  day's  detention  afforded  us  time  for  the  more  minute  ex- 
amination of  whatever  was  interesting  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the 
more  ample  development  of  the  object  of  our  visit  to  the  unen- 
lightened people  of  the  village;  and  those  were  the  occupations  of 
the  day. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    HALE    O    KEAWE. 

Honaunau,  we  found,  was  formerly  a  place  of  considerable  impor- 
tance, having  been  the  frequent  residence  of  the  kings  of  Hawaii  for 
several  successive  generations. 

The  monuments  and  relics  of  the  ancient  idolatry  with  which  this 
place  abounds,  wrere,  from  some  cause  unknown  to  us,  spared  amidst 
the  general  destruction  of  the  idols,  &e.  that  followed  the  abolition 
of  the  aitabu,  in  the  summer  of  1819. 

The  principal  object  that  attracted  our  attention,  was  the  Hare  o 
Keave,  (the  House  of  Keave,)  a  sacred  depository  of  the  bones  of 
departed  kings  and  princes,  probably  erected  for  the  reception  of  the 
bones  of  the  king  whose  name  it  bears,  and  who  reigned  in  Hawaii 
about  eight  generations  back. 

It  is  a  compact  building,  twenty-four  feet  by  sixteen,  constructed 
with  the  most  durable  timber,  and  thatched  with  ti  leaves,  standing  on 
a  bed  of  lava  that  runs  out  a  considerable  distance  into  the  sea. 

It  is  surrounded  by  a  strong  fence  of  paling,  leaving  an  area  in 
the  front,  and  at  each  end  about  twenty-four  feet  wide.  The  pave- 
ment is  of  smooth  fragments  of  lava,  laid  down  with  considerable 
skill. 

MANY    IDOLS    STILL    IN    PLACE. 

Several  rudely  carved  male  and  female  images  of  wood  were  placed 
on  the  outside  of  the  enclosure;  some  on  low  pedestals  under  the 
shade  of  an  adjacent  tree,  others  on  high  posts  on  the  jutting  rocks 
that  hung  over  the  edge  of  the  water. 

A  number  stood  on  the  fence  at  unequal  distances  all  around ;  but 
the  principal  assemblage  of  these  frightful  representatives  of  their 
former  deities  was  at  the  south-east  end  of  the  enclosed  space,  where, 
forming  a  semicircle,  twelve  of  them  stood  in  grim  array,  as  if  per- 
petual guardians  of  "the  mighty  dead"  reposing  in  the  house  ad- 
joining. 

A  pile  of  stones  was  neatly  laid  up  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  about 
three  feet  wide,  and  two  feet  higher  than  the  pavement,  and  in  this 
pile  the  images  were  fixed.  They  stood  on  small  pedestals,  three  or 
four  feet  high,  though  some  were  placed  on  pillars,  eight  or  ten  feet 
in  height,  and  curiously  carved. 


<o  <o 


126 
IDOLS    APPEARED    NEGLECTED. 

The  principal  idol  stood  in  the  centre,  the  others  on  either  hand; 
the  most  powerful  being  placed  nearest  to  him:  he  was  not  so  large 
as  some  of  the  others,  but  distinguished  by  the  variety  and  superior 
carvings  of  his  body,  and  especially  of  his  head. 

Once  they  had  evidently  been  clothed,  but  now  they  appeared  in 
the  most  indigent  nakedness.  A  few  tattered  shreds  round  the  neck 
of  one  that  stood  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  door,  rotted  by  the 
rain  and  bleached  by  the  sun,  were  all  that  remained  of  numerous 
and  gaudy  garments,  with  which  their  votaries  had  formerly  arrayed 
them. 

A  large  pile  of  broken  calabashes  and  cocoa-nut  shells  lay  in  the 
centre,  and  a  considerable  heap  of  dried,  and  partly  rotten,  wreaths 
of  flowers,  branches  of  shrubs  and  bushes,  and  fragments  of  tapa,  (the 
accumulated  offerings  of  former  days,)  formed  an  unsightly  mound 
immediately  before  each  of  the  images. 

The  horrid  stare  of  these  idols,  the  tattered  garments  upon  some  of 
them,  and  the  heaps  of  rotting  offerings  before  them,  seemed  to  us 
no  improper  emblems  of  the  system  they  were  designed  to  support; 
distinguished  alike  by  its  cruelty,  folly,  and  wretchedness. 

CONDITIONS  INSIDE   THE  HOUSE. 

We  endeavoured  to  gain  admission  to  the  inside  of  the  house,  but 
were  told  it  was  tabu  roa,  (strictly  prohibited,)  and  that  nothing  but 
a  direct  order  from  the  king,  or  Karaimoku,  could  open  the  door. 

However,  by  pushing  one  of  the  boards  across  the  door-way  a  little 
on  one  side,  we  looked  in,  and  saw  many  large  images,  some  of  wood 
very  much  carved,  others  of  red  feathers,  with  distended  mouths, 
large  rows  of  sharks'  teeth,  and  pearl-shell  eyes. 

We  also  saw  several  bundles,  apparently  of  human  bones,  cleaned, 
carefully  tied  up  with  cinet  made  of  cocoa-nut  fibres,  and  placed  in 
different  parts  of  the  house,  together  with  some  rich  shawls  and  other 
valuable  articles,  probably  worn  by  those  to  whom  the  bones  belonged, 
as  the  wearing  apparel  and  other  personal  property  of  the  chiefs  is 
generally  buried  with  them. 

When  we  had  gratified  our  curiosity,  and  I  had  taken  a  drawing  of 
the  building,  and  some  of  its  appendages,  we  proceeded  to  examine 
other  remarkable  objects  of  the  place. 

CITY  OP  REFUGE  AT  HONAUNAU. 

Adjoining  the  Hare  o  Keave  to  the  southward,  we  found  a  Pahu 
tabu  (sacred  enclosure)  of  considerable  extent,  and  were  informed  by 
our  guide  that  it  was  one  of  the  pohonuas  of  Hawaii,  of  which  we 


127 

had  so  often  heard  the  chiefs  and  others  speak.  There  are  only  two 
on  the  island;  the  one  which  we  were  then  examining,  and  another 
at  Waipio,  on  the  north-east  part  of  the  island,  in  the  district  of 
Kohala. 

These  Puhonuas  were  the  Hawaiian  cities  of  refuge,  and  afforded 
an  inviolable  sanctuary  to  the  guilty  fugitive,  who,  when  flying  from 
the  avenging  spear,  was  so  favoured  as  to  enter  their  precincts. 

This  had  several  wide  entrances,  some  on  the  side  next  the  sea, 
the  others  facing  the  mountains.  Hither  the  manslayer,  the  man  who 
had  broken  a  tabu,  or  failed  in  the  observance  of  its  rigid  require- 
ments, the  thief,  and  even  the  murderer,  fled  from  his  incensed  pur- 
suers, and  was  secure. 

To  whomsoever  he  belonged,  and  from  whatever  part  he  came,  he 
was  equally  certain  of  admittance,  though  liable  to  be  pursued  even 
to  the  gates  of  the  enclosure. 

Happily  for  him,  those  gates  were  perpetually  open;  and  as  soon 
as  the  fugitive  had  entered,  he  repaired  to  the  presence  of  the  idol, 
and  made  a  short  ejaculatory  address,  expressive  of  his  obligations  to 
him  in  reaching  the  place  with  security. 

PROTECTION   OF  DEFEATED   IN  "WAR. 

Whenever  war  was  proclaimed,  and  during  the  period  of  actual 
hostilities,  a  white  flag  was  unfurled  on  the  top  of  a  tall  spear,  at 
each  end  of  the  enclosure,  and,  until  the  conclusion  of  peace,  waved 
the  symbol  of  hope  to  those  who,  vanquished  in  fight,  might  flee 
thither  for  protection.  It  was  fixed  a  short  distance  from  the  walls 
on  the  outside,  and  to  the  spot  on  which  this  banner  was  unfurled, 
the  victorious  warrior  might  chase  his  routed  foes;  but  here,  he  must 
himself  fall  back;  beyond  it  he  must  not  advance  one  step,  on  pain 
of  forfeiting  his  life. 

The  priests,  and  their  adherents,  would  immediately  put  to  death 
any  one  who  should  have  the  temerity  to  follow  or  molest  those  who 
were  once  within  the  pale  of  the  palm  tabu;  and,  as  they  expressed  it, 
under  the  shade  or  protection  of  the  spirit  of  Keave,  the  tutelar 
deity  of  the  place. 

In  one  part  of  the  enclosure,  houses  were  formerly  erected  for  the 
priests,  and  others  for  the  refugees,  who,  after  a  certain  period,  or  at 
the  cessation  of  war,  were  dismissed  by  the  priests,  and  returned 
unmolested  to  their  dwellings  and  families;  no  one  venturing  to  injure 
those,  who,  when  they  fled  to  the  gods,  had  been  by  them  protected. 

We  could  not  learn  the  length  of  time  it  was  necessary  for  them 
to  remain  in  the  puhonua;  but  it  did  not  appear  to  be  more  than 
two  or  three  days.  After  that,  they  either  attached  themselves  to 
the  service  of  the  priests,  or  returned  to  their  homes. 


128 

The  puhonua  at  Honaunau  is  capacious,  capable  of  containing  a 
vast  multitude  of  people.  In  time  of  war,  the  females,  children,  and 
old  people  of  the  neighbouring  districts,  were  generally  left  within  it, 
while  the  men  went  to  battle.  Here  they  awaited  in  safety  the  issue 
of  the  conflict,  and  were  secure  against  surprise  and  destruction,  in 
the  event  of  a  defeat. 

The  form  of  it  was  an  irregular  parallelogram,  walled  up  on  one 
side  and  at  both  ends,  the  other  being  formed  by  the  sea-beach,  ex- 
cept on  the  north-west  end,  where  there  was  a  low  fence.  On  meas- 
uring it,  we  found  it  to  be  715  feet  in  length,  and  404  feet  wide. 
The  walls  wort'  twelve  feet  high  and  fifteen  thick. 

Holes  were  still  visible  in  the  top  of  the  wall,  where  large  images 
had  formerly  stood,  about  four  rods  apart  throughout  its  whole  ex- 
tent. 

Within  this  enclosure  were  three  large  heiaus,  two  of  which  were 
considerably  demolished,  while  the  other  was  nearly  entire.  It  was  a 
compact  pile  of  stones,  laid  up  in  a  solid  mass,  126  feet  by  65,  and 
ten  feet  high. 

Many  fragments  of  rock,  or  pieces  of  lava,  of  two  or  more  tons 
each,  were  seen  in  several  parts  of  the  wall,  raised  at  least  six  feet 
from  the  ground. 

The  erection  of  such  a  place  as  the  puhonua  at  Honaunau,  under 
the  circumstances  and  with  the  means  by  which  alone  it  was  reared, 
(as  they  had  no  machinery,)  must  have  been  an  herculean  task,  and 
could  not  have  been  completed  but  by  the  labour  of  many  hands. 

ORIGIN   OP   CITY  OF  REFUGE. 

We  could  not  learn  how  long  it  had  been  standing,  but  were  in- 
formed it  was  built  for  Keave,  who  reigned  in  Hawaii  about  250 
years  ago.  The  walls  and  heiaus,  indeed,  looked  as  if  it  might  claim 
such  antiquity;  but  the  house  of  Keave  and  the  images  must  have 
been  renewed  since  that  time. 

We  had  often  passed  over  the  ruins  of  deserted  heathen  temples, 
and  the  vestiges  of  demolished  altars,  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
I  had  frequently  visited  those  in  other  groups  of  the  Pacific;  but  the 
feelings  excited  on  these  occasions  had  always  been  those  of  deep 
melancholy  and  horror,  at  the  human  immolations  and  shocking  cruel- 
ties which  they  had  so  often  exhibited.  Here,  however,  idolatry  ap- 
peared at  least  in  the  form  of  clemency,  and  the  sacred  enclosure 
presented  a  scene  unique  among  the  ruins  of  paganism,  which  we 
contemplated  with  unusual  interest. 

Whether  its  establishment  was  originally  projected  by  the  priests, 
to  attach  to  their  interests  all  who  might  owe  their  lives  to  its  institu- 
tion,  or  by  some   mild   and   humane  prince,   anxious   to   diminish   th« 


129 

barbarous  cruelties  of  idolatry,  and  soften  the  sanguinary  character 
of  savage  warfare;  or  whether  derived  traditionally  from  the  Israel- 
itish  cities  of  refuge,  to  which  some  of  its  features  are  strikingly 
analogous, — we  do  not  pretend  to  determine. 

However,  we  could  not  but  rejoice  that  its  abolition  was  so  soon 
succeeded  by  the  revelation  of  a  refuge  more  secure, — that  the  white 
flag  ceased  not  to  wave  till  another  banner  was  ready  to  be  unfurled, 
on  which  was  inscribed,  "Look  unto  me,  and  be  ye  saved,  all  the  ends 
of  the  earth." — Unto  Jesus  may  they  look,  and  may  his  name  to 
them  become  the  hope  of  glory. 

Sweet  hope,  it  makes  the  coward  brave, 
It  makes  a  freeman  of  the   slave, 

And  bids  the  sluggard  rise: 
It  lifts  the  worm  of  earth  on  high, 
Provides  him  wings,  and  makes  him  fly 

To  mansions  in  the  skies. 

DISCOMFORTS    AT    HONAUNAU   AND    KEOKEA. 

Our  accommodations  at  Honaunau  were  very  indifferent.  The 
house  where  we  stayed,  in  addition  to  other  unpleasant  circumstances, 
being  entirely  open  at  one  end,  exposed  us  by  night  as  well  as  by  day 
to  the  unwelcome  intrusion  of  hogs  and  dogs  of  every  description. 

As  I  was  able  to  walk  out  on  the  23d,  we  resolved  to  change  our 
lodgings  that  evening;  and  about  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  re- 
moved nearly  half  a  mile,  to  a  place  called  Keokea,  where  we  put  up 
in  the  best  house  we  saw,  in  hopes  of  procuring  at  least  a  comfortable 
night 's  rest.  In  this,  however,  we  were  disappointed,  for  it  rained 
heavily  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  and  the  roof  of  the  house  not 
being  water-proof,  we  were  more  than  once  obliged  to  shift  our  mats 
to  different  parts  of  the  earthen  floor. 

SWEET  POTATO   LIQUOR. 

This  was  not  all;  our  host,  and  Makoa  our  guide,  with  almost  a 
house  full  of  natives  besides,  had  been  regaling  themselves  with  an 
immense  wooden  bowl  of  fermented  juice  of  the  sweet  potato,  and 
were  very  noisy  till  midnight,  when  they  lay  down  on  their  mats, 
but  to  our  great  annoyance  continued  either  talking  or  singing  until 
it  was  almost  day.  We  frequently  spoke  to  them,  and  asked  them  to 
be  still.  They  answered,  "Yes,  yes,  we  will;"  but  in  a  few  minutes 
were  as  boisterous  as  ever.  We  were  not  aware  of  the  intoxicating 
nature  of  the  simple  juice  of  sweet  potatoes  when  fermented,  till  we 
saw  its  effects  on  the  party  here. 

But  notwithstanding  we  were  uncomfortable  during  our  short  stay 
at  Honaunau,  and  the  people  less  kind  than  we  usually  found  them,  it 

9 


130 

appeared  to  us  a  most  eligible  place  for  a  missionary  station,  where 
one  or  two  devoted  men  might  labour  with  a  prospect  of  extensive 
usefulness. 

The  inhabitants,  objects  of  the  first  attention  with  a  missionary, 
are  numerous,  both  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood. 

ADVANTAGES   OP   HONAUNAU   AS   A    MISSION    STATION. 

The  coast,  for  twenty  miles  to  the  northward,  includes  not  less  per- 
haps than  forty  villages,  either  on  the  shore  or  a  short  distance  inland, 
and  contains  probably  a  population  of  20,000  souls,  among  whom  a 
missionary  might  labour  with  facility. 

Though  there  is  at  present  no  chief  of  distinction  residing  here,  as 
at  Kairua,  or  Kearake'kua,  yet  the  very  circumstance  of  establishing 
a  station  here  might  lead  one  to  remove  hither;  and  the  conduct  of 
the  people,  we  have  no  doubt,  would  alter  materially  as  they  became 
better  acquainted  with  the  missionaries,  and  their  object  in  settling 
permanently  among  them.  It  is  near  Kearake'kua  bay,  the  frequent 
resort  of  shipping,  where  supplies  might  be  left;  and  the  natives  also 
told  us,  that  fresh  water  in  considerable  quantities  might  be  procured 
at  a  short  distance.  We  had  not  an  opportunity  to  examine  the  place 
where  they  said  it  was  found;  but  should  this  prove  a  fact,  Honaunau 
would  possess  an  accommodation  seldom  met  with  on  this  side  of  the 
island. 

Being  sufficiently  recovered  to  proceed  on  the  journey,  we  left  Keo- 
kea  about  eight  o  'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  24th. 

A  VOLCANIC   CURIOSITY. 

After  travelling  half  a  mile,  a  singular  appearance  of  the  lava,  at 
a  small  distance  from  the  shore,  attracted  our  attention,  and,  on  ex- 
amination, presented  a  curious  phenomenon.  It  consisted  of  a  covered 
avenue  of  considerable  extent,  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  height, 
formed  by  the  flowing  of  the  lava,  in  some  recent  eruption,  over  the 
edge  of  a  perpendicular  pile  of  ancient  volcanic  rocks,  from  sixty  to 
seventy  feet  high. 

It  appeared  as  if,  at  first,  it  had  flowed  over  in  one  vast  sheet, 
but  had  afterwards  fallen  more  slowly,  and  in  detached  semifluid 
masses.  These,  cooling  as  they  fell,  had  hardened  and  formed  a  pile, 
which,  by  continued  augmentation  from  above,  had  ultimately  reached 
the  top,  and  united  with  the  liquid  lava  there.  It  was  evident  that 
the  lava  had  still  continued  to  flow,  along  the  outside  of  the  -  arch 
thus  formed,  into  the  plain  below,  as  we  observed,  in  several  places, 
the  courses  of  unbroken  streams,  from  the  top  of  the  cliff  to  the  bed 
of  smooth  lava,  that  covered  the  beach  for  several  miles. 

The  space  at  the  bottom  between  the  ancient  rocks  and  more  re- 


131 

cently  formed  lava,  was  from  six  to  twelve  feet.  On  one  side  the  lava 
rose,  perpendicular  and  smooth,  shewing  distinctly  the  different  and 
variously  coloured  masses  of  ancient  lava  of  which  it  was  composed; 
some  of  a  bright  scarlet,  others  brown  and  purple. 

The  whole  pile  appeared  to  have  undergone  since  its  formation  the 
effects  of  violent  heat.  The  cracks  and  hollows,  horizontally  be- 
tween the  different  strata,  or  obliquely  through  them,  were  filled  with 
lava  of  a  florid  red  colour,  and  much  less  porous  than  the  general 
mass.  This  last  kind  of  lava  must  have  been  brought  to  a  state  of 
most  perfect  liquefaction,  as  it  had  filled  up  every  crevice  that  was 
more  than  half  an  inch  wide. 

A  MARVELOUS   SIGHT. 

It  appeared  highly  glazed,  and  in  some  places  we  could  discover 
small  round  pebbles,  from  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut  to  that  of  a  hen's 
egg,  of  the  same  colour,  and  having  the  same  vitreous  covering,  yet 
seeming  to  have  remained  solid,  while  the  liquid  lava,  with  which 
they  were  mixed,  had  been  forced  by  subterranean  fire  into  all  the  fis- 
sures of  the  ancient  rock. 

The  pile  on  the  other  side,  formed  by  the  dripping  of  the  liquid 
lava  from  the  upper  edge  of  the  rocks,  presented  a  striking  contrast, 
but  not  a  less  interesting  sight.  It  was  generally  of  a  dark  purple 
or  jet  black  colour,  glittering  in  the  rays  of  the  sun,  as  if  glazed  over 
with  a  beautiful  vitreous  varnish. 

On  breaking  off  any  fragments,  we  found  them  very  porous,  and 
considerably  lighter  than  the  ancient  lava  on  the  other  side.  Its 
varied  forms  baffled  description,  and  were  equal  to  the  conceptions  of 
the  most  fertile  imagination. 

The  archway  thus  formed  continued  for  about  half  a  mile,  occasion- 
ally interrupted  by  an  opening  in  the  pile  of  recent  lava,  caused  by 
some  projecting  rock,  or  elevation  in  the  precipice  above.  A  spectacle 
awfully  sublime  and  terrific  must  have  been  presented,  when  this 
burning  stream  rolled  in  one  wide  sheet,  a  fiery  cascade,  from  the 
lofty  steep  down  upon  the  smoking  plain. 

With  what  consternation  and  horror  must  it  have  filled  the 
affrighted  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  villages,  as  they  beheld  its 
irresistible  and  devastating  course,  impressed  as  they  were  with  the 
belief,  that  Pele,  the  goddess  whom  they  had  offended,  had  left  her 
lightning,  earthquake,  and  liquid  fire,  the  instruments  of  her  power 
abode  in  the  volcano,  and  was  in  person  visiting  them  with  thunder, 
and  vengeance. 

As  we  passed  along  this  vaulted  avenue,  called  by  the  natives 
Keanaee,  we  beheld  a  number  of  caverns  and  tunnels,  from  some  of 


132 

which  streams  of  lava  had  flowed.  The  mouths  of  others  being  walled 
up  with  stones,  we  supposed  were  used  as  sepulchres. 

Mats,  spread  upon  the  slabs  of  lava,  calabashes,  &c.  indicated 
some  of  them  to  be  the  habitations  of  men;  others,  near  the  openings, 
were  used  as  workshops,  where  women  were  weaving  mats,  or  beating 
cloth.  Some,  we  also  saw,  used  as  storehouses,  or  depositories  of  san- 
dal wood. 

In  many  places  the  water  filtered  through  the  lava,  and,  around 
the  spots  where  it  had  dropped  on  the  ground,  we  observed  a  quan- 
tity of  fine  white  spear-shaped  crystals  of  a  sharp  nitrous  taste. 

Having  walked  a  considerable  distance  along  the  covered  way, 
and  collected  as  many  specimens  of  the  lava  as  we  could  conveniently 
carry,  we  returned  to  the  sea-shore.  Mr.  Harwood  being  indisposed, 
and  unable  to  travel,  and  being  myself  but  weak,  we  proceeded  in 
the  canoe  to  Kalahiti,  where  we  landed  about  2  p.  m.  and  waited 
the  arrival  of  our  companions.  The  rest  of  the  party  travelled  along 
the  shore,  by  a  path  often  tedious  and  difficult. 

FURTHER   REMARKABLE   VOLCANIC   FORMATIONS. 

The  lava  frequently  presented  a  mural  front,  from  sixty  to  a  hun- 
dred feet  high,  in  many  places  hanging  over  their  heads,  apparently 
every  moment  ready  to  fall;  while  beneath  them  the  long  rolling 
billows  of  the  Pacific  chafed  and  foamed  among  the  huge  fragments 
of  volcanic  rocks,  along  which  their  road  lay. 

In  many  places  the  lava  had  flowed  in  vast  torrents  over  the  top 
of  the  precipice  into  the  sea.  Broad  flakes  of  it,  or  masses  like  stalac- 
tites, hung  from  the  projecting  edge  in  every  direction.  The  atten- 
tion was  also  attracted  by  a  number  of  apertures  in  the  face  of  the 
rocks,  at  different  distances  from  their  base,  looking  like  so  many 
glazed  tunnels,  from  which  streams  of  lava  had  gushed  out  and  fallen 
into  the  ocean  below,  probably  at  the  same  time  that  it  had  rolled 
down  in  a  horrid  cataract  from  the  lofty  rocks  above. 

They  passed  through  two  villages,  containing  between  three  and 
four  hundred  inhabitants,  and  reached  Kalahiti  about  four  in  the 
afternoon.  Here  the  people  were  collected  for  public  worship,  and 
Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  them  from  John  vi.  38.  They  gave  good 
attention,  and  appeared  interested  in  what  they  heard. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  conversation  on  religious  subjects,  with 
those  who  crowded  our  lodgings. 

CUSTOMS  UPON  DEATH  OF  A  CHIEF. 

At  this  place  we  observed  many  of  the  people  with  their  hair 
either  cut  or  shaved  close  on  both  sides  of  their  heads,  while  it  was 
left  very  long  in  the  middle  from  the  forehead  to  the  back  of  the 


133 

neck.  When  we  inquired  the  reason  of  this,  they  informed  us,  that, 
according  to  the  custom  of  their  country,  they  had  cut  their  hair,  in 
the  manner  we  perceived,  on  account  of  their  chief  who  had  been 
sick,  and  who  they  had  heard  was  dead. 

The  Sandwich  islanders  observe  a  number  of  singular  ceremonies 
on  the  death  of  their  kings  and  chiefs,  and  have  been  till  very 
recently,  accustomed  to  make  these  events  occasions  for  the  practice 
of  almost  every  enormity  and  vice.  The  custom  we  noticed  at  this 
place  is  the  most  general.  The  people  here  had  followed  only  one 
fashion  in  cutting  their  hair,  but  we  have  seen  it  polled  in  every 
imaginable  form;  sometimes  a  small  round  place  only  is  made  bald 
just  on  the  crown,  which  causes  them  to  look  like  Roman  priests;  at 
other  times  the  whole  head  is  shaved  or  cropped  close,  except  round 
the  edge,  where,  for  about  half  an  inch  in  breadth,  the  hair  hangs 
down  its  usual  length. 

Some  make  their  heads  bald  on  one  side,  and  leave  the  hair  twelve 
or  eighteen  inches  long  on  the  other.  Occasionally  they  cut  out  a 
patch,  in  the  shape  of  a  horse-shoe,  either  behind,  or  above  the  fore- 
head; and  sometimes  we  have  seen  a  number  of  curved  furrows  cut 
from  ear  to  ear,  or  from  the  forehead  to  the  neck.  When  a  chief  who 
had  lost  a  relative  or  friend  had  his  own  hair  cut  after  any  particular 
pattern,  his  followers  and  dependants  usually  imitated  it  in  cutting 
theirs. 

Not  to  cut  or  shave  off  the  hair,  indicates  want  of  respect  towards 
the  deceased  and  the  surviving  friends,  but  to  have  it  cut  close  in 
any  form  is  enough.  Each  one  usually  follows  his  own  taste,  which 
produces  the  endless  variety  in  which  this  ornamental  appendage  of 
the  head  is  worn  by  the  natives  during  a  season  of  mourning. 

KNOCKING  OUT  FRONT  TEETH. 

Another  custom,  almost  as  universal  on  these  occasions,  was  that 
of  knocking  out  some  of  the  front  teeth,  practised  by  both  sexes, 
though  perhaps  most  extensively  by  the  men. 

When  a  chief  died,  those  most  anxious  to  shew  their  respect  for 
him  or  his  family  would  be  the  first  to  knock  out  with  a  stone  one 
of  their  front  teeth. 

The  chiefs  related  to  the  deceased,  or  on  terms  of  friendship  with 
him,  were  expected  thus  to  exhibit  their  attachment;  and  when  they 
had  done  so,  their  attendants  and  tenants  felt  themselves,  by  the  in-  . 
fluence  of  custom,  obliged  to  follow  thoir  example.  Sometimes  a  man 
broke  out  his  own  tooth  with  a  stone;  more  frequently,  however,  it 
was  done  by  another,  who  fixed  one  end  of  a  piece  of  stick  or  hard 
wood  against  the  tooth,  and  struck  the  other  end  with  a  stone,  till 
it  was  broken  off. 


134 

When  any  of  the  men  deferred  this  operation,  the  women  often 
performed  it  for  them  while  they  were  asleep. 

More  than  one  tooth  was  seldom  destroyed  at  one  time;  but  the 
mutilation  being  repeated  on  the  decease  of  every  chief  of  rank  or 
authority,  there  are  few  men  to  be  seerr,  who  had  arrived  at  maturity 
before  the  introduction  of  Christianity  to  the  islands,  with  an  entire 
set  of  teeth;  and  many  by  this  custom  have  lost  the  front  teeth  on 
both  the  upper  and  lower  jaw,  which,  aside  from  other  inconveniences, 
causes  a  great  defect  in  their  speech. 

Some,  however,  have  dared  to  be  singular;  and  though  they  must 
have  seen  many  deaths,  have  parted  with  but  few  of  their  teeth. 
Among  this  number  is  Karaimoku,  a  chief  next  in  authority  to  the 
king,  not  more  than  one  of  whose  teeth  are  deficient. 

Cutting  one  or  both  ears  was  formerly  practised  on  these  occasions; 
but  as  we  never  saw  more  than  one  or  two  old  men  thus  disfigured, 
the  custom  appears  to  have  been  discontinued. 

Another  badge  of  mourning,  assumed  principally  by  the  chiefs,  is 
that  of  tatauing  a  black  spot  or  line  on  the  tongue,  in  the  same 
manner  as  other  parts  of  their  bodies  are  tataued. 

A  SATURNALIA  OF  WICKEDNESS  AND  CRUELTY. 

All  these  usages,  though  singular,  are  innocent,  compared  with 
others,  which,  until  very  recently,  were  practised  on  every  similar 
event. 

As  soon  as  the  chief  had  expired,  the  whole  neighbourhood  exhibited 
a  scene  of  confusion,  wickedness,  and  cruelty,  seldom  witnessed  even 
in  the  most  barbarous  society. 

The  people  ran  to  and  fro  without  their  clothes,  appearing  and 
acting  more  like  demons  than  human  beings;  every  vice  was  prac- 
tised, and  almost  every  species  of  crime  perpetrated. 

Houses  were  burnt,  property  plundered,  even  murder  sometimes 
committed,  and  the  gratification  of  every  base  and  savage  feeling 
sought  without  restraint. 

Injuries  or  accidents,  long  forgotten  perhaps  by  the  offending  party, 
were  now  revenged  with  unrelenting  cruelty.  Hence  many  of  the 
people  of  Maui,  dreading  their  recurrence,  when  Keopuolani  was 
thought  to  be  near  her  end,  took  their  effects  into  the  enclosure  be- 
longing to  the  missionaries  there,  and  requested  permission  to  re- 
main there,  hoping  to  find  a  sanctuary  within  their  premises  amidst 
the  general  devastation  which  they  expected  would  follow  her  decease. 

MOURNING  CUSTOMS   IN   SOUTH  PACIFIC. 

The  inhabitants  of  several  groups  in  the  Pacific  have  mourning  cere- 
monies somewhat  resembling  these. 


135 

The  Friendly  islanders  cut  off  a  joint  of  one  of  their  fingers  at 
the  death  of  a  chief,  and,  like  the  Society  islanders,  cut  their  tem- 
ples, face,  and  bosoms,  with  shark's  teeth. 

The  latter  also,  during  their  oto  haa,  or  mourning,  commit  almost 
as  many  depredations  as  the  Sandwich  islanders.  They  have,  how- 
ever, one  very  delicate  method  of  preserving  the  recollection  of  the 
dead,  which  the  latter  do  not  appear  to  employ;  that  is,  of  having  a 
small  portion  of  the  hair  of  the  deceased  passed  through  a  perfora- 
tion in  one  of  their  ears,  ingeniously  braided  in  the  form  of  an  ear- 
ring, and  worn  sometimes  for  life. 

But  the  Sandwich  islanders  have  another  custom,  almost  peculiar 
to  themselves,  viz.  singing  at  the  death  of  their  chiefs,  something  in 
the  manner  of  the  ancient  Peruvians.  I  have  been  peculiarly  affected 
more  than  once  on  witnessing  this  ceremony. 


A    MOURNING    SONG. 

A  day  or  two  after  the  decease  of  Keeaumo'ku,  governor  of  Maui, 
and  the  elder  brother  of  Kuakini,  governor  of  Hawaii,  I  was  sitting 
with  the  surviving  relatives,  who  were  weeping  around  the  couch  on 
which  the  corpse  was  lying,  when  a  middle-aged  woman  came  in  at 
the  other  end  of  the  large  house,  and  having  proceeded  about  half 
way  towards  the  spot  where  the  body  lay,  began  to  sing,  in  a  plaintive 
tone,  accompanying  her  song  with  affecting  gesticulations,  such  as 
wringing  her  hands,  grasping  her  hair,  and  beating  her  breasts.  I 
wrote  down  her  monody  as  she  repeated  it. 

She  described  in  a  feeling  manner  the  benevolence  of  the  deceased, 
and  her  own  consequent  loss.    One  passage  was  as  follows: 


Ue,  ue.  ua  mate  tuu  Arii, 

Ua    mate    tuu   hatu    e    tuu    hoa, 

Tuu    hoa    i    ta    wa    o    ta    wi, 

Tuu    hoa    i   paa   ta   aina, 

Tuu    hoa    i    tuu    ilihune, 

Tuu   hoa   i   ta  ua   e   ta  matani, 

Tuu  hoa   i  ta  vera  o   ta  la, 

Tuu  hoa  i  ta  anu  o  ta  mouua, 

Tuu  hoa  i  ta  ino, 

Tuu   hoa   i   ta  marie, 

Tuu  hoa   i   mau  tai   awaru, 

Ue,   ue,   ua  hala  tuu  hoa, 

Aohe  e  hoi  hou  mai. 


Alas,  alas,  dead  is  my  chief, 

Dead  is  my   lord  and  my   friend; 

My   friend  in   the   season  of  famine, 

My   friend   in   the   time   of   drought, 

My   friend   in   my  poverty, 

My  friend  in  the  rain  and  the  wind, 

My   friend  in   the  heat  and  the  sun, 

My   friend  in  the  cold  from  the  mountain, 

My  friend  in  the  storm, 

My    friend    in    the    calm, 

My    friend    in    the    eight    seas;* 

Alas,   alas,   gone   is  my   friend, 

And  no  more  will  return. 


Other  exhibitions  of  a  similar  kind  I  witnessed  at  Maui. 


MOURNING   FOR   KEOPUOLANI. 


After  the  death  of  Keopuolani,  we  frequently  saw  the  inhabitants 
of  a  whole  district,  that  had  belonged  to  her,  coming  to  weep  on 
account   of  her   death.     They   walked   in   profound   silence,   either   in 


A  figurative  term  for  the  channels  between  the  different  islands  of  the  group. 


136 

single  file,  or  two  or  three  abreast,  the  old  people  leading  the  van,  and 
the  children  bringing  up  the  rear. 

They  wore  not  covered  with  ashes,  but  almost  literally  clothed  in 
sack-cloth.  No  ornaments,  or  even  decent  piece  of  cloth,  was  seen  on 
any  one.  Dressed  only  in  old  fishing  nets,  dirty  and  torn  pieces  of 
matting,  or  tattered  garments,  and  these  sometimes  tied  on  their 
bodies  with  pieces  of  old  canoe  ropes,  they  appeared  the  most  abject 
and  wretched  companies  of  human  beings  I  ever  saw. 

When  they  were  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  house  where 
the  corpse  was  lying,  they  began  to  lament  and  wail.  The  crowds 
of  mourners  around  the  house  opened  a  passage  for  them  to  approach 
it,  and  then  one  or  two  of  their  number  came  forward,  and  standing 
a  little  before  the  rest,  began  a  song  or  recitation,  shewing  her 
birth,  rank,  honours,  and  virtues,  brandishing  a  staff  or  piece  of 
sugar-cane,  and  accompanying  their  recitation  with  attitudes 
and  gestures  expressive  of  the  most  frantic  grief.  When  they  had 
finished,  they  sat  down,  and  mingled  with  the  thronging  multitudes 
in  their  loud  and  ceaseless  wailing. 

MOURNING  CUSTOMS  AMONG  COMMON   PEOPLE. 

Though  these  ceremonies  were  so  popular,  and  almost  universal  on 
the  decease  of  their  chiefs,  they  do  not  appear  to  have  been  practised 
by  the  common  people  among  themselves.  The  wife  did  not  knock- 
out her  teeth  on  the  death  of  her  husband,  nor  the  son  his,  when  he 
lost  his  father  or  mother,  neither  did  parents  thus  express  their  grief 
when  bereaved  of  an  only  child.  Sometimes  they  cut  their  hair,  but 
in  general  only  indulged  in  lamentations  and  weeping  for  several  days. 

Anxious  to  make  ourselves  acquainted  with  their  reasons  for  these 
practices,  we  have  frequently  conversed  with  the  natives  respecting 
them. 

The  former,  such  as  polling  the  hair,  knocking  out  the  teeth,  tatau- 
ing  the  tongue,  &c.  they  say  is  designed  to  shew  the  loss  they  have 
sustained,  and  perpetually  to  remind  them  of  their  departed  friends. 

Kamehamaru,  queen  of  Rihoriho,  who  died  on  her  recent  visit  to 
England,  gave  me  a  fine  answer  to  this  effect,  on  the  occasion  of 
the  death  of  Keopuolani,  her  husband 's  mother. 

TATOOING  THE  TONGUE. 

A  few  days  after  the  interment,  I  went  into  a  house  where  a 
number  of  chiefs  were  assembled,  for  the  purpose  of  having  their 
tongues  tataued;  and  the  artist  was  performing  this  operation  on  her's 
when  I  entered.  He  first  immersed  the  face  of  the  instrument,  which 
was  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide,  and  set  with  a  number  of  small  fish- 
bones, into  the  colouring  matter,  placed  it  on  her  tongue,  and  giving 


137 

it  a  quick  and  smart  stroke  with  a  small  rod  in  his  right  hand,  punc- 
tured the  skin,  and  injected  the  dye  at  the  same  time.  Her  tongue 
bled  much,  and  a  few  moments  after  I  entered  she  made  a  sign  for 
him  to  desist.  She  emptied  her  mouth  of  the  blood,  and  then  held 
her  hands  to  it  to  counteract  the  pain. 

As  soon  as  it  appeared  to  have  subsided  a  little,  I  remarked  that 
I  was  sorry  to  see  her  following  so  useless  a  custom;  and  asked  if  it 
was  not  exceedingly  painful?  She  answered,  He  eha  nui  no,  he 
nui  roa  ra  kuu  aroha!     Pain,  great  indeed;  but  greater  my  affection! 

After  further  remarks,  I  asked  some  of  the  others  why  they  chose 
that  method  of  shewing  their  affectionate  remembrance  of  the  dead? 
They  said,  Aore  roa  ia  e  naro!  That  will  never  disappear,  or  be 
obliterated! 

BURNING  THE    SKIN. 

Another  method,  very  generally  practised  by  all  classes  on  these 
occasions,  was  that  of  burning  on  their  skin  a  large  number  of  semi- 
circles disposed  in  different  forms.  It  was  not  done  by  a  heated  iron, 
but  having  stripped  the  bark  from  a  small  branch  of  a  tree,  about 
an  inch  in  diameter,  they  held  it  in  the  fire  till  one  end  of  the  bark 
was  perfectly  ignited,  and  in  this  state  applied  it  to  the  face  or 
bosom,  which  instantly  raised  the  skin,  and  after  the  blister  had  sub- 
sided the  scars  remained  a  number  of  days. 

We  never  found  any  apologists  for  the  enormities  practised  on  these 
occasions;  and  the  only  excuse  they  have  ever  given  has  been,  that 
at  the  death  of  a  great  chief,  the  paroxysm  of  grief  has  been  so 
violent  as  to  deprive  the  people  of  their  reason,  hence  they  neither 
knew  nor  cared  what  they  did,  being  hehena,  frantic,  or  out  of  their 
senses  through  sorrow. 

CHANGE   EFFECTED   BY   MISSIONARIES. 

Since  the  introduction  of  the  gospel  by  Christian  missionaries,  or 
rather  since  the  death  of  Keopuolani  in  September,  1823,  all  the  wicked 
practices,  and  most  of  the  ceremonies  usual  on  these  occasions,  have 
entirely  ceased.  Knocking  out  the  teeth  is  discontinued;  wailing,  cut- 
ting the  hair,  and  marking  the  tongue,  is  still  practised;  but  all  the 
evil  customs  have  been  most  strictly  forbidden  by  the  principal  chiefs. 

We  took  leave  of  the  friendly  people  of  Kalahiti  about  nine  a.  m. 
on  the  25th.  Messrs.  Thurston,  Bishop,  and  Goodrich,  continued  their 
journey  along  the  shore,  and  I  went  in  the  canoe  in  company  with 
Mr.  Harwood. 

The  coast,  along  which  we  sailed,  looked  literally  ironbound.  It 
was  formed  of  steep  rocks  of  porphyritic  lava,  whose  surface  wore  the 
most  rugged  aspect  imaginable. 


138 

FROM  KALAHIKI  TO  KAPUA. 

About  two  p.  m.  we  reached  Taureonanahoa,  three  large  pillars  of 
lava,  about  twenty  feet  square,  and  apparently  sixty  or  eighty  high, 
standing  in  the  water,  within  a  few  yards  of  each  other,  and  adjacent 
to  the  shore.  Two  of  them  were  united  at  the  top,  but  open  at  their 
base.  The  various  coloured  strata  of  black,  reddish,  and  brown  lava, 
being  distinctly  marked,  looked  like  so  many  courses  of  masonry.  We 
sailed  between  them  and  the  main  land;  and  about  five  in  the  after- 
noon landed  at  Kapua,  a  small  and  desolate-looking  village,  on  the 
south-west  point  of  Hawaii,  and  about  twenty  miles  distant  from 
Kalahiti.  Here  we  had  the  canoe  drawn  up  on  the  beach  until  our 
companions  should  arrive. 

After  leaving  Kalahiti,  Messrs.  Thurston,  Goodrich,  and  Bishop,  pro- 
ceeded over  a  rugged  tract  of  lava,  broken  up  in  the  wildest  con- 
fusion, apparently  by  an  earthquake,  while  it  was  in  a  fluid  state. 
About  noon  they  passed  a  large  crater.  Its  rim,  on  the  side  towards 
the  sea,  was  broken  down,  and  the  streams  of  lava  issuing  thence, 
marked  the  place  by  which  its  contents  were  principally  discharged. 
The  lava  was  not  so  porous  as  that  at  Keanaee,  but,  like  much  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  craters,  was  of  a  dark  red,  or  brown  fer- 
ruginous colour,  and  but  partially  glazed  over.  It  was  exceedingly 
ponderous  and  compact,  many  fragments  had  quite  a  basaltic  shape, 
and  contained  quantities  of  olivin  of  a  green  and  brown  colour. 

CANOEING  THROUGH  THE  SURF. 

For  about  a  mile  along  the  coast  they  found  it  impossible  to  travel 
without  making  a  considerable  circuit  inland;  they  therefore  procured 
a  canoe,  and  passed  along  the  part  of  the  coast  where  the  sea  rolled 
up  against  the  naked  rocks;  and  about  one  p.  m.  landed  in  a  very 
high  surf.  To  a  spectator  on  the  shore  their  small  canoe  would  have 
seemed  every  moment  ready  to  be  buried  in  the  waves;  yet,  by  the 
dexterity  of  the  natives,  they  were  safely  landed  with  no  other  incon- 
venience than  a  slight  wetting  from  the  spray  of  the  surf. 

CAMPING    AT    HONOMALINO. 

Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  the  people  at  the  place  where  they  landed, 
after  which  they  took  some  refreshment,  and  kept  on  their  way  over 
the  same  broken  and  rugged  tract  of  lava  till  about  six  p.  m.  when 
they  reached  Honomalino.  Here  they  were  so  much  fatigued  with  the 
laborious  travelling  of  the  past  day,  that  they  were  obliged  to  put 
up  for  the  night.  They  procured  a  little  sour  poe,  and  only  a  small 
quantity  of  brackish  water.  Having  conducted  family  worship  with 
the  people  of  the  place,  they  laid  themselves  down  to  rest  on  their 


139 

mats  spread   on  the   small  fragments   of  lava,   of   which  the  floor  of 
the  house  was  composed. 

Early  the  next  morning  the  party  at  Honomalino  proceeded  to 
Kapua,  and  about  eight  a.  m.  joined  those  who  had  slept  there. 

A  BARREN  AND  DESOLATE   COUNTRY. 

At  this  place  we  hired  a  man  to  go  about  seven  miles  into  the  moun- 
tains for  fresh  water;  but  he  returned  with  only  one  calabash  full;  a 
very  inadequate  supply,  as  our  whole  company  had  suffered  much  from 
thirst,  and  the  effects  of  the  brackish  water  we  had  frequently  drank 
since  leaving  Honaunau. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  barren  and  solitary  appearance  of  this  part 
of  the  island,  not  only  from  the  want  of  fresh  water,  but  from  the 
rugged  and  broken  tracts  of  lava  of  which  it  appears  to  be  entirely 
composed. 

Unwilling  to  spend  the  Sabbath  in  the  desolate  and  almost  forsaken 
village  of  Kapua,  we  prepared  for  a  long  day's  journey,  as  we  knew 
of  no  village  before  us  containing  more  than  five  or  six  houses  for 
nearly  thirty  miles'  distance. 

Before  we  left  Kapua,  we  were  so  favoured  as  to  procure  water 
enough  to  fill  our  canteens,  and  about  10  a.  m.  resumed  our  journey. 
Messrs.  Thurston,  Bishop  and  Goodrich,  walked  on  by  the  sea-side. 
About  noon  they  reached  Kaulanamauna,  and  shortly  after  left  Kona, 
and  entered  Kau. 

A   GENERAL  DESCRIPTION   OF   KONA. 

Kona  is  the  most  populous  of  the  six  great  divisions  of  Hawaii,  and 
being  situated  on  the  leeward  side,  would  probably  have  been  the  most 
fertile  and  beautiful  part  of  the  island,  had  it  not  been  overflowed  by 
floods  of  lava.  It  is  joined  to  Kohala,  a  short  distance  to  the  south- 
ward of  Towaihae  bay,  and  extends  along  the  western  shore  between 
seventy  and  eighty  miles,  including  the  irregularities  of  the  coast. 

The  northern  part,  including  Kairua,  Kearake'kua,  and  Honaunau, 
contains  a  dense  population;  and  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are  culti- 
vated to  a  considerable  extent;  but  the  south  part  presents  a  most 
inhospitable  aspect.  The  population  is  thin,  consisting  principally  of 
fishermen,  who  cultivate  but  little  land,  and  that  at  the  distance  of 
from  five  to  seven  miles  from  the  shore. 

ENTERING  THE  KAU  DISTRICT. 

The  division  of  Kau  commences  at  Kaulanamauna,  runs  down  to  the 
south  point  of  the  island,  and  stretches  about  forty  miles  along  the 
south-east  shore.  On  entering  it,  the  same  gloomy  and  cheerless  desert 
of  rugged  lava  spread  itself  in  every  direction  from  the  shore  to  the 


140 

mountains.  Here  and  there  at  distant  intervals  they  passed  a  lonely 
house,  or  a  few  wandering  fishermen's  huts,  with  a  solitary  shrub,  or 
species  of  thistle,  struggling  for  existence  among  the  crevices  in  the 
blocks  of  scoria?  and  lava.  All  besides  was  "one  vast  desert,  dreary, 
bleak,   and  wild." 

In  many  places  all  traces  of  a  path  entirely  disappeared;  for  miles 
together  they  clambered  over  huge  pieces  of  vitreous  scoria;,  or  rugged 
piles  of  lava,  which,  like  several  of  the  tracts  they  had  passed  in 
Kona,  had  been  tossed  in  its  present  confusion  by  some  violent  con- 
vulsion of  the  earth. 

VOLCANIC    CONDITIONS    IN    KAU. 

From  the  state  of  the  lava  covering  that  part  of  the  country  through 
which  we  have  passed,  we  should  be  induced  to  think  that  eruptions 
and  earthquakes  had  been,  almost  without  exception,  concomitants  of 
each  other;   and  the  shocks  must  have  been  exceedingly   violent,   to 

Slabs  of  lava,  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  thick,  and  from  four  to 
as  we  every  where  beheld. 

Slabs  of  lava,  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  thick,  and  from  four  to 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  were  frequently  piled  up  edgewise 
or  stood  leaning  against  several  others  piled  up  in  a  similar  manner. 
Some  of  them  were  six,  ten,  or  twelve  feet  above  the  general  surface 
fixed  in  the  lava  below,  which  appeared  to  have  flowed  round  their 
base,  and  filled  up  the  interstices  occasioned  by  the  separation  of  the 
different  pieces. 

One  side  of  these  rugged  slabs  generally  presented  a  compact, 
smooth,  glazed,  and  gently  undulated  surface,  while  the  other  appeared 
rugged  and  broken,  as  if  torn  with  violence  from  the  viscid  mass  to 
which  it  had  tenaciously  adhered.  Probably  these  slabs  were  raised 
by  the  expansive  force  of  the  heated  air  beneath  the  sheet  of  lava. 

KEAWAIKI — A  PORT  OF  REFUGE. 

After  about  eighteen  miles  of  most  difficult  travelling  they  reached 
Keavaiti,  a  small  opening  among  the  rocks,  where,  in  case  of  emerg- 
ency, a  canoe  might  land  in  safety.  Here  they  found  Mr.  Harwood 
and  myself  waiting;  for,  after  leaving  Kapua,  we  had  sailed  along 
close  to  the  shore,  till  the  wind  becoming  too  strong  for  us  to  proceed, 
we  availed  ourselves  of  the  opening  which  Keavaiti  afforded,  to  run  the 
canoe  ashore,  and  wait  till  the  wind  should  abate,  though  in  so  doing 
we  were  completely  wet  with  the  surf,  and  spoiled  the  few  pro- 
visions we  had  on  board. 

The  wind  was  still  too  strong  to  allow  the  canoe  to  proceed  on  her 
voyage;  and  those  who  had  travelled  by  land  felt  too  much  fatigued 
to  go  on  without  some  refreshment  and  rest.    Desirous  of  spending  the 


141 

Sabbath  -with  the  people  at  Tairitii,  which  was  still  fourteen  or  fifteen 
miles  distant,  we  determined  to  rest  a  few  hours,  and  then  prosecute 
our  journey  by  moonlight. 

A  number  of  conical  hills,  from  150  to  200  feet  high,  rose  imme- 
diately in  our  rear,  much  resembling  sand-hills  in  their  appearance. 
On  examination,  however,  we  found  them  composed  of  volcanic  ashes 
and  cinders;  but  could  not  discover  any  mark  of  their  ever  having 
been  craters. 

HARD    CONDITIONS    AT    KEAWAIKI. 

When  those  of  our  party  who  had  travelled  by  land  had  recovered 
a  little  from  their  fatigue,  we  partook  of  such  refreshment  as  re- 
mained, and  drank  the  little  fresh  water  we  had  brought  with  us  in  the 
canoe.  Being  only  about  a  quart  between  five  persons,  it  was  a  very 
inadequate  supply  in  such  a  dry  and  thirsty  land,  yet  we  drank  it  with 
thankfulness,  hoping  to  procure  some  at  Tairitii  early  on  the  following 
morning. 

By  the  time  we  had  finished  our  frugal  meal,  the  shades  of  evening 
began  to  close  around  us.  We  called  our  little  party  together,  and 
after  committing  ourselves,  and  those  who  travelled  with  us,  to  the 
watchful  care  of  our  merciful  Father,  we  spread  our  mats  on  the  small 
pieces  of  lava,  and  lay  down  to  rest  under  the  canopy  of  heaven.  A 
pile  of  blocks  of  scorias  and  lava,  part  of  which  we  had  built  up  our- 
selves, screened  our  heads  from  the  winds. 

The  thermometer  at  sun-set  stood  at  73°,  yet  during  the  evening  the 
land  wind  from  the  snow-covered  top  of  Mouna  Eoa  blew  keenly  down 
upon  us.  We  slept,  however,  tolerably  well  till  midnight,  when  the 
wind  from  the  shore  being  favourable,  and  the  moon  having  risen,  we 
resumed  our  journey. 

TRAA'EL    BY    MOONLIGHT    TO    KAILIKII. 

I  went  with  Mr.  Harwood  in  the  canoe  to  Tairitii,  which  we  reached 
a  short  time  before  daybreak;  but  the  surf  rolling  high,  we  were 
obliged  to  keep  off  the  shore  until  daylight  enabled  us  to  steer  be- 
tween the  rocks  to  the  landing  place.  Some  friendly  natives  came 
down  to  the  beach,  and  pointed  out  the  passage  to  the  steersman,  by 
whose  kind  aid  we  landed  in  safety  about  half  past  five  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  27th.  Our  first  inquiry  was  for  water;  Mauae,  the  gov- 
ernor's man,  soon  procured  a  calabash  full,  fresh  and  cool,  of  which 
we  drank  most  copious  draughts,  then  filled  the  canteens,  and  pre- 
served them  for  those  who  were  travelling  along  the  shore. 

LACK   OF   DRINKING  WATER. 

About  half -past  eight,  Mr.  Thurston  hastily  entered  the  house;  his 
first  salutation  was,  "Have  you  got  any  water?"    A  full  canteen  was 


142 

handed  to  him,  with  which  he  quenched  his  thirst,  exclaiming,  as  he 
returned  it,  that  he  had  never  in  his  life  before  suffered  so  much  for 
want  of  water.  When  he  first  discovered  the  houses,  about  two  miles 
distant,  he  felt  his  thirst  so  great,  that  he  left  his  companions  and 
hastened  on,  running  and  walking  till  he  reached  the  place  where 
those  who  arrived  in  the  canoe  were  stopping. 

After  leaving  Keavaiti,  Messrs.  Bishop,  Goodrich,  and  Thurston 
travelled  over  the  rugged  lava,  till  the  moon  becoming  obscured  by 
dark  heavy  clouds,  they  were  obliged  to  halt  under  a  high  rock  of 
lava,  and  wait  the  dawn  of  day,  for  they  found  it  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed in  the  dark,  without  being  every  moment  in  danger  of  stumbling 
over  the  sharp  projections  of  the  rocks,  or  falling  into  some  of  the 
deep  and  wide  fissures  that  intersected  the  bed  of  lava  in  every 
direction. 

After  waiting  about  an  hour,  they  resumed  their  journey;  and 
Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich  reached  Tairitii  nearly  half  an  hour  after 
Mr.  Thurston's  arrival. 

At  10  a.  m.  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  the  people  of  Tairitii,  and 
the  neighbouring  village  of  Patini,  all  of  whom  are  fishermen.  They 
behaved  with  propriety,  and  appeared  interested. 

"We  had  sent  out  Makoa,  our  guide,  soon  after  our  arrival,  to  inform 
the  people  that  there  would  be  a  religious  meeting,  and  invite  their 
attendance.  He  had  gone  much  further  than  we  expected  he  would; 
and  just  as  Mr.  Thurston  had  finished  his  sermon,  he  returned,  followed 
by  a  considerable  company  from  an  inland  settlement,  who,  to  use  their 
own  words,  had  come  to  hear  about  Jehovah  and  Jesus  Christ.  They 
seemed  disappointed  at  finding  the  service  over.  As  they  said  they 
could  not  wait  till  the  evening,  they  and  the  people  of  the  village 
assembled  in  a  large  canoe-house,  and  Mr.  Thurston  preached  again 
of  salvation  through  Jesus  Christ.  They  sat  very  quietly,  and  listened 
with  apparent  attention.  After  they  had  spent  an  hour  or  two  in 
conversation  with  us,  they  returned,  seemingly  interested  in  what  they 
had  heard. 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Thurston  preached  a  third  time.  Between 
seventy  and  eighty  were  present.  With  most  of  those  who  have  at- 
tended the  public  worship  in  this  place,  this  day  was  probably  the 
first  time  they  ever  heard  of  Jehovah  the  living  God,  or  Jesus  Christ 
the  Saviour.  We  could  not  but  desire  and  pray  that  the  Holy  Spirit 
might  make  the  word  spoken  in  this  distant  and  desolate  part  of  the 
earth,  the  power  of  God  to  the  salvation  of  many  that  heard  it. 

A   "SPOUTING  HORN"   AT  KAILIKII. 

July  28th. — During  the  whole  of  yesterday  a  most  beautiful  spouting 
of  the  water  had  attracted  our  attention,  which  we  found  was  pro- 


143 

duced  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  we  had  witnessed  at  Kairua.  The 
aperture  in  the  lava  was  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  every  few 
seconds  a  column  of  water  was  thrown  up  with  considerable  noise,  and 
a  pleasing  effect,  to  the  height  of  thirty-five  or  forty  feet. 

The  lava  at  this  place  was  very  ancient,  and  much  heavier  than  what 
we  had  seen  in  Kona.  The  vesicles  in  it  were  also  completely  filled 
with  olivin,  which  appeared  in  small,  green,  hard,  transparent  crystals, 
in  such  quantities  as  to  give  the  rocks  quite  a  green  appearance;  some 
of  the  olivin  was  brown. 

In  this  neighbourhood  we  also  discovered  large  masses  of  porphyritic 
lava,  containing  crystals  of  felspar  and  olivin  in  great  quantities,  and 
apparently  black  schorls. 

LIMIT  OF  CANOE  TRAVEL. 

The  trade-winds  blowing  along  the  shore  very  fresh,  and  directly 
against  us,  obliged  us  to  leave  our  canoe  at  this  place.  Mauae  and  his 
companions  having  drawn  it  into  an  adjacent  shed,  took  off  the  out- 
rigger and  left  it,  together  with  the  mast,  sails,  and  paddles,  in  the 
care  of  the  man  at  whose  house  we  had  lodged;  as  he  was  also  desirous 
to  see  the  volcano,  and,  after  an  absence  of  several  years,  to  revisit 
Kaimu,  in  the  division  of  Puna,  the  place  of  his  birth,  he  prepared  to 
accompany  us  by  land. 

Hitherto  we  had  travelled  along  the  sea-shore,  in  order  to  visit  the 
most  populous  villages  in  the  districts  through  which  we  had  passed. 
But  here  receiving  information  that  we  should  find  more  inhabitants 
a  few  miles  inland,  than  nearer  the  sea,  we  thought  it  best  to  direct 
our  course  towards  the  mountains. 

Makoa,  our  guide,  procured  men  to  carry  our  baggage,  and  at  nine 
a.  m.  we  left  Tairitii.  Our  way  lay  over  a  bed  of  ancient  lava,  smooth, 
considerably  decomposed,  and  generally  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of 
soil.  We  passed  along  the  edge  of  a  more  recent  stream  of  lava, 
rugged,  black,  and  appalling  in  its  aspect,  compared  with  the  tract  we 
were  walking  over,  which  here  and  there  showed  a  green  tuft  of  grass, 
a  straggling  shrub,  or  a  creeping  convolvulus. 

TRAMPING  ALONG   THE   KAHUKU   BLUFF. 

After  travelling  about  a  mile,  we  reached  the  foot  of  a  steep 
precipice.  A  winding  path  led  to  its  top,  up  which  we  pursued  our 
way,  occasionally  resting  beneath  the  shade  of  huge  overhanging  rocks. 
This  precipice  is  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  the  rocks  on  frac- 
ture proved  a  dark  grey  kind  of  lava,  more  compact  than  that  on  the 
adjacent  plain. 

The  whole  pile  appears  to  have  been  formed  by  successive  eruptions 
from  some  volcano  in  the  interior,  as  there  appeared  to  be  a  thin  layer 


144 

of  soil  between  some  of  the  strata,  or  different  inundations,  which  we 
supposed  was  produced  by  the  decomposition  of  the  lava  on  the  surface 
of  the  lower  stratum,  before  overflowed  by  the  superincumbent  mass. 

The  rocks  appeared  to  have  been  rent  in  a  line  from  the  sea-shore 
towards  the  mountains,  and  probably  the  same  convulsion  which  burst 
the  rocks  asunder,  sunk  the  plain  to  its  present  level. 

A    CHANGE    OF    SCENE. 

In  half  an  hour  we  reached  its  summit.  A  beautiful  country  now 
appeared  before  us,  and  we  seemed  all  at  once  transported  to  some 
happier  island,  where  the  devastations  attributed  to  Nahoaarii,  and 
Pele,  deities  of  the  volcanoes,  had  never  been  known. 

The  rough  and  desolate  tract  of  lava,  with  all  its  distorted  forms, 
was  exchanged  for  the  verdant  plain,  diversified  with  gently  rising 
hills,  and  sloping  dales,  ornamented  with  shrubs,  and  gay  with  bloom- 
ing flowers.  We  saw,  however,  no  stream  of  water  during  the  whole 
of  the  day;  but,  from  the  luxuriance  of  the  herbage  in  every  direction, 
the  rains  must  be  frequent  or  the  dews  heavy. 

About  noon  we  reached  Kalehu,  a  small  village,  upwards  of  four 
miles  from  Tairitii.  The  kind  cottagers  brought  us  some  fine  water- 
melons, which  afforded  us  a  grateful  repast  while  we  rested  during 
the  heat  of  the  noonday  sun. 

WATERMELONS   AT   KALEHU. 

Between  sixty  and  seventy  persons  collected  around  the  house  in 
which  we  were  sitting,  and  as  I  was  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able 
to  preach,  I  addressed  them  from  Matt.  i.  21.  They  seemed  inter- 
ested, and  afterwards  said,  that  they  had  heard  good  news.  We  re- 
mained about  an  hour,  conversing  on  some  of  the  first  principles  of  the 
religion  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  then  resumed  our  journey  over  the  same 
beautiful  country,  which  was  partially  cultivated,  and  contained  a  nu- 
merous, though  scattered,  population. 

The  prospect  was  delightful.  On  one  hand  the  Pacific  dashed  its 
mighty  waves  against  the  rocky  shore,  and  on  the  other,  the  kuahivi 
(mountain  ridges)  of  Kau,  and  snow-top 'd  Mouna  Boa,  rose  in  the  in- 
terior, with  lofty  grandeur. 

UPLAND    TARO    CULTIVATION. 

Our  path  led  us  through  several  fields  of  mountain  taro,  (a  variety 
of  the  arum,)  a  root  which  appears  to  be  extensively  cultivated  in 
many  parts  of  Hawaii.  It  was  growing  in  a  dry  sandy  soil,  into 
which  our  feet  sunk  two  or  three  inches  every  step  we  took.  The 
roots  were  of  an  oblong  shape,  generally  from  ten  inches  to  a  foot  in 
length,  and  four  or  six  inches  in  diameter.     Seldom  more  than  two  or 


145 

three  leaves  were  attached  to  a  root,  and  those  of  a  light  green  colour, 
frequently  blotched  and  sickly  in  their  appearance.  The  inside  of  the 
root  is  of  a  brown  or  reddish  colour,  and  much  inferior  to  that  of 
the  arum  esculentum,  or  lowland  taro.  It  is,  however,  very  palatable, 
and  forms  a  prime  article  of  food  in  those  parts  of  the  island,  where 
there  is  a  light  soil,  and  but  little  water. 

AN  OVERNIGHT   STOP  AT  KAULTJ. 

Between  three  and  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Kauru, 
a  small  village  environed  with  plantations,  and  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  side  of  a  wide  valley,  extending  from  the  mountains  to  the  south 
point  of  the  island.  As  the  men  with  our  baggage  had  not  come  up, 
we  waited  about  two  hours,  when  Tuite,  the  head  man  of  the  village, 
arrived,  and  pressed  us  to  spend  the  night  at  his  house.  We  accepted 
his  invitation,  and  proposed  to  him  to  collect  the  people  of  the  village 
together,  to  hear  about  the  true  God.  He  consented,  and  a  little  before 
sunset  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  assembled  in  front  of  his  house. 

Mr.  Thurston,  after  the  usual  devotional  exercises,  preached  to  them 
for  about  half  an  hour,  and  they  paid  great  attention.  During  the 
evening,  a  baked  pig,  with  some  potatoes,  and  taro,  was  brought  for 
our  supper,  of  which  we  made  a  hearty  repast. 

A    FERTILE    BUT    SPARSELY    SETTLED    DISTRICT. 

At  the  request  of  Makoa,  Tuite  furnished  men  to  carry  our  baggage 
to  the  next  district,  and  soon  after  daylight  on  the  29th  we  left 
Kauru,  and,  taking  an  inland  direction,  travelled  over  a  fertile  plain, 
covered  with  a  thin  yet  luxuriant  soil.  Sometimes  the  surface  was 
strewed  with  small  stones,  or  fragments  of  lava,  but  in  general  it 
was  covered  with  brushwood. 

The  population  in  this  part  did  not  appear  concentrated  in  towns 
and  villages,  as  it  had  been  along  the  sea-shore,  but  scattered  over 
the  whole  face  of  the  country,  which  appeared  divided  into  farms 
of  varied  extent,  and  upon  these  the  houses  generally  stood  singly,  or 
in  small  clusters,  seldom  exceeding  four  or  five  in  number. 

After  walking  six  or  seven  miles,  we  entered  the  district  of  Papa- 
pohaku.  When  we  had  nearly  passed  through  it,  we  sat  down  to  rest, 
on  a  pile  of  stones  by  the  way  side.  Between  sixty  and  seventy 
natives  soon  collected  around  us;  presenting  a  motley  group.  Most 
of  the  children  were  naked,  or  at  best  had  only  a  narrow  slip  of  tapa 
fastened  round  their  loins. 

DESCRIPTION  OP  PEOPLE  OF  PAPAPOHAKU. 

ral  of  the  men,  on  seeing  us  pass  along  the  road,  had  left  their 
work  in  the  fields  and  gardens,  and,  although  covered  with  dust  and 

10 


146 

perspiration,  had  seated  themselves  in  the  midst,  with  their  o-os  in 
their  hand.  (This  o-o  is  the  principal  implement  of  husbandry  which 
a  Hawaiian  farmer  uses.  Formerly  it  was  a  sharp-pointed  stick  of 
hard  wood;  it  is  now  usually  pointed  with  iron.  The  best  are  made 
with  broad  socket  chisels,  into  which  they  fix  a  handle  four  or  six  feet 
long.)  Their  only  clothing  was  the  maro,  a  narrow  girdle  worn  round 
the  loins,  one  end  of  which  passes  between  the  legs,  and  fastens  in 
front. 

The  old  men  were  most  of  them  dressed  in  a  kihei,  as  were  also 
some  of  the  women,  but  many  of  the  latter  wore  only  a  pau  of  native 
cloth  wound  round  their  loins.  Their  black  hair  was  in  several  in- 
stances turned  up,  and  painted  white  all  round  the  forehead,  with 
a  kind  of  chalk  or  clay,  which  is  found  in  several  parts  of  the  island. 

Many  also  wore  a  small  looking-glass,  set  in  a  solid  piece  of  wood, 
and  suspended  on  the  bosom  by  a  handkerchief,  or  strip  of  native 
cloth,  fastened  round  the  neck,  to  which  was  sometimes  added  an- 
other article,  considered  equally  useful,  and  not  less  ornamental; 
viz.  a  small  wooden  brass-tipped  tobacco-pipe;  the  looking-glass  and 
tobacco-pipe  were  sometimes  combined  in  one  ornament. 

FOREIGNERS    A    CURIOSITY. 

Most  of  these  people  had  probably  never  seen  so  large  a  company 
of  foreigners  before;  and  their  curiosity,  as  might  be  expected,  was 
unusually  excited.  Their  countenances,  however,  indicated  no  feel- 
ings of  jealousy,  but  manifested  a  degree  of  pleasure  greater  than 
ordinary. 

After  conversing  with  them  some  time  on  the  objects  of  our  tour, 
and  their  ideas  of  the  true  God,  we  proposed  to  them  to  listen  to  his 
word,  and  unite  with  us  in  worshipping  him.  They  seated  themselves 
on  the  grass.  We  sung  a  hymn,  and  I  preached  from  Psalm  cxxviii.  1. 
At  the  conclusion  of  our  religious  service  we  resumed  our  journey,  sev- 
eral of  the  natives  following  us  to  the  next  village. 

THE   BEAUTIES   OP   WAIOHINU. 

Our  path  running  in  a  northerly  direction,  seemed  leading  us  towards 
a  ridge  of  high  mountains,  but  it  suddenly  turned  to  the  east,  and 
presented  to  our  view  a  most  enchanting  valley,  clothed  with  verdure, 
and  ornamented  with  clumps  of  kukui  and  kou  trees.  On  the  south- 
east it  was  open  towards  the  sea,  and  on  both  sides  adorned  with  gar- 
dens, and  interspersed  with  cottages,  even  to  the  summits  of  the  hills. 

A  fine  stream  of  fresh  water,  the  first  we  had  seen  on  the  island, 
ran  along  the  centre  of  the  valley,  while  several  smaller  ones  issued 
from  the  rocks  on  the  opposite  side,  and  watered  the  plantations  be- 
low.    We  drank  a  most  grateful  draught  from  the  principal  stream, 


147 

and  then  continued  our  way  along  its  margin,  through.  Kiolaakaa, 
travelling  towards  the  sea,  till  we  reached  Waiohinu,  about  ten 
miles  from  the  place  where  we  slept  last  night.  Here  we  found  a  very 
comfortable  house  belonging  to  Pai,  the  head  man,  who  invited  us  in, 
and  kindly  entertained  us. 

About  noon,  a  hospitable  dinner  was  prepared,  of  which,  with  the 
additional  luxury  of  fresh  water,  we  made  a  comfortable  meal. 

FIRST    KNOWLEDGE    OP    JESUS    CHRIST. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  people  of  the  place  were  col- 
lected outside  of  the  house;  and  when  we  had  requested  them  to  sit 
down,  we  conducted  a  religious  exercise  similar  to  that  held  in  the 
morning.  Much  conversation  followed,  on  the  subject  of  religion. 
They  said  they  had  heard  of  Ieho  (Jehovah)  our  God,  but  had  never 
before  heard  of  Jesus  Christ;  that,  until  now,  they  did  not  know  there 
was  a  Sabbath  day,  on  which  they  ought  not  to  work,  but  that  here- 
after they  would  recollect  and  observe  it.  They  wished,  they  said, 
to  become  good  men,  and  to  be  saved  by  Jesus  Christ. 

Between  three  and  four  o'clock  we  took  leave  of  them,  and  pur- 
sued our  journey  towards  the  sea-shore.  Our  road,  for  a  considerable 
distance,  lay  through  the  cultivated  parts  of  this  beautiful  valley: 
the  mountain  taro,  bordered  by  sugar-cane  and  bananas,  was  planted 
in  fields  six  or  eight  acres  in  extent,  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and 
seemed  to  thrive  luxuriantly.  On  leaving  the  valley,  we  proceeded 
along  by  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  in  a  line  parallel  with  the  sea, 
and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  it. 

THE  GAME  OF  PAHE  DESCRIBED. 

In  our  way  we  passed  over  a  tahua  pahe,  or  pahe  floor,  about  fifty 
or  sixty  yards  long,  where  a  number  of  men  were  playing  at  pahe, 
a  favourite  amusement  with  farmers  and  common  people  in  general. 
The  pahe  is  a  blunt  kind  of  dart,  varying  in  length  from  two  to  five 
feet,  and  thickest  about  six  inches  from  the  point,  after  which  it 
tapers  gradually  to  the  other  end.  These  darts  are  made  with  much 
ingenuity,  of  a  heavy  wood.  They  are  highly  polished,  and  thrown 
with  great  force  or  exactness  along  the  level  ground,  or  floor  of 
earth,  previously  prepared  for  the  game. 

Sometimes  the  excellence  of  the  play  consists  in  the  dexterity  with 
which  the  pahe  is  thrown.  On  these  occasions  two  darts  are  laid  down 
at  a  certain  distance,  three  or  four  inches  apart,  and  he  who,  in  a 
given  number  of  times,  throws  his  dart  most  frequently  between  these 
two,  without  striking  either  of  them,  wins  the  game. 

At  other  times  it  is  a  mere  trial  of  strength;  and  those  win  who, 
in  a  certain  number  of  times,  throw  their  darts  farthest.     A  mark 


148 

is  made  in  the  ground,  to  designate  the  spot  from  which  they  are  to 
throw  it.  The  players,  balancing  the  pahe  in  their  right  hand,  re- 
treat a  few  yards  from  this  spot,  and  then  springing  forward  to  the 
mark,  dart  it  along  the  ground  with  great  velocity.  The  darts  re- 
main wherever  they  stop  till  all  are  thrown,  when  the  whole  party 
run  to  the  other  end  of  the  floor,  to  see  whose  have  been  the  most  suc- 
cessful throws. 

THE  GAME  OP  MAIKA  DESCRIBED. 

This  latter  game  is  very  laborious,  yet  we  have  known  the  men  of 
whole  districts  engage  in  it  at  once,  and  have  seen  them  playing 
several  hours  together,  under  the  scorching  rays  of  a  vertical  sun. 

On  the  same  tahua  or  floor  they  also  play  at  another  game,  re- 
sembling the   pahe,   which  they  call  maita   or   uru  maita. 

Two  sticks  are  stuck  in  the  ground  only  a  few  inches  apart,  at  a 
distance  of  thirty  or  forty  yards,  and  between  these,  but  without 
striking  either,  the  parties  at  play  strive  to  throw  their  stone;  at 
other  times,  the  only  contention  is,  who  can  bowl  it  farthest  along 
the  tahua  or  floor. 

The  uru,  which  they  use  instead  of  a  dart,  is  a  circular  stone 
admirably  adapted  for  rolling,  being  of  compact  lava,  or  a  white 
alluvial  rock,  (found  principally  in  the  island  of  Oahu,)  about  three 
or  four  inches  in  diameter,  an  inch  in  thickness  around  the  edge,  but 
thicker,  and  consequently  heavier,  in  the  centre. 

COMPETITIVE  TOURNAMENTS. 

These  stones  are  finely  polished,  highly  valued,  and  carefully  pre- 
served, being  always  oiled  and  wrapped  up  in  native  cloth  after  hav- 
ing been  used.  The  people  are,  if  possible,  more  fond  of  this  game 
than  the  pahe;  and  the  inhabitants  of  a  district,  not  unfrequently  chal- 
lenge the  people  of  the  whole  island,  or  the  natives  of  one  island 
those  of  all  the  others,  to  bring  a  man  who  shall  try  his  skill  with 
some  favourite  player  of  their  own  district  or  island. 

On  such  occasions  we  have  seen  seven  or  eight  thousand  chiefs  and 
people,  men  and  women,  assembled  to  witness  the  sport,  which,  as 
well  as  the  pahe,  is  often  continued  for  hours  together. 

Many  of  these  amusements  require  great  bodily  exertion;  and  we 
have  often  been  struck  with  the  restless  avidity  and  untiring  effort 
with  which  they  pursue  even  the  most  toilsome  games. 

Sometimes  we  have  expressed  our  surprise  that  they  should  labour 
so  arduously  at  their  sport,  and  so  leisurely  at  their  plantations  or 
houses,  which,  in  our  opinion,  would  be  far  more  conducive  of  their 
advantage  and  comfort. 

They  have  generally  answered,  that  they  built  houses   and   culti- 


149 

vated  their  gardens  from  necessity,  but  followed  their  amusements  be- 
cause their  hearts  were  fond  of  them. 

GAMBLING    CHIEF    INCENTIVE    OF    GAMES. 

There  are  some  few  who  play  merely  for  pleasure;  but  the  greater 
part  engage  in  it  in  hopes  of  gain. 

Were  their  games  followed  only  as  sources  of  amusement,  they 
would  be  comparatively  harmless;  but  the  demoralizing  influence  of 
the  various  kinds  of  gambling  existing  among  them  is  very  extensive. 

Scarcely  an  individual  resorts  to  their  games  but  for  the  purpose  of 
betting;  and  at  these  periods  all  the  excitement,  anxiety,  exultation, 
and  rage,  which  such  pursuits  invariably  produce,  are  not  only  visible 
in  every  countenance,  but  fully  acted  out,  and  all  the  malignant  pas- 
sions which  gambling  engenders  are  indulged  without  restraint. 

DESPERATE  BETTING. 

We  have  seen  females  hazarding  their  beads,  scissors,  cloth-beating 
mallets,  and  every  piece  of  cloth  they  possessed,  except  what  they 
wore,  on  a  throw  of  the  uru  or  pahe. 

In  the  same  throng  might  be  frequently  seen  the  farmer  with  his 
o-o,  and  other  implements  of  husbandry;  the  builder  of  canoes,  with 
his  hatchets  and  adzes;  and  some  poor  man,  with  a  knife,  and  the 
mat  on  which  he  slept, — all  eager  to  stake  every  article  they  pos- 
sessed on  the  success  of  their  favourite  player;  and  when  they  have 
lost  all,  we  have  known  them,  frantic  with  rage,  tear  their  hair  from 
their  heads  on  the  spot. 

This  is  not  all;  the  sport  seldom  terminates  without  quarrels,  some- 
times of  a  serious  nature,  ensuing  between  the  adherents  of  the  dif- 
ferent parties. 

Since  schools  have  been  opened  in  the  islands,  and  the  natives 
have  been  induced  to  direct  their  attention  to  Christian  instruction 
and  intellectual  improvement,  we  have  had  the  satisfaction  to  observe 
these  games  much  less  followed  than  formerly;  and  we  hope  the  period 
is  fast  approaching,  when  they  shall  only  be  the  healthful  exercises 
of  children,  and  when  the  time  and  strength  devoted  to  purposes  so 
useless,  and  often  injurious,  shall  be  employed  in  cultivating  their 
fertile  soil,  augmenting  their  sources  of  individual  and  social  hap- 
piness, and  securing  to  themselves  the  enjoyment  of  the  comforts  and 
privileges  of  civilized  and  Christian  life. 

The  country  appeared  more  thickly  inhabited  than  that  over  which 
we  had  travelled  in  the  morning.  The  villages,  along  the  sea  shore, 
were  near  together,  and  some  of  them  extensive. 


150 
A  RELIGIOUS   DISCUSSION  AT   KAPAUKU. 

After  travelling  about  an  hour,  we  came  to  Kapauku,  a  pleasant 
village  belonging  to  Naihe.  As  we  passed  through  it  we  found  tall 
rows  of  sugar-cane  lining  the  path  on  either  side,  and  beneath  their 
shade  we  sat  down  to  rest. 

A  crowd  of  natives  soon  gathered  around  us;  and  after  a  little 
general  conversation,  we  asked  them  who  was  their  god?  They 
said  they  had  no  god;  formerly  they  had  many,  but  now  they  had 
cast  them  all  away. 

We  asked  them  if  they  had  done  well  in  abolishing  them?  They 
said,  Yes,  for  the  tabu  occasioned  much  labour  and  inconvenience,  and 
drained  off  the  best  of  their  property. 

We  asked  them  if  it  was  a  good  thing  to  have  no  god,  and  to 
know  of  no  being  to  whom  they  ought  to  render  religious  homage? 
They  said  perhaps  it  was,  for  they  had  nothing  to  provide  for  the 
great  sacrifices,  and  were  under  no  fear  of  punishment  for  breaking 
tabu;  that  now,  one  fire  cooked  their  food,  and  men  and  women  ate 
together  the  same  kind  of  provisions. 

We  asked  them  if  they  would  not  like  to  hear  about  the  true  God, 
and  the  only  Saviour?  They  said  they  had  heard  of  Jesus  Christ, 
by  a  boy  belonging  to  Naihe,  who  came  from  Oahu  about  two  months 
ago;  but  he  had  not  told  them  much,  and  they  should  like  to  hear 
something  more. 

NATIVES   FAVORABLY   DISPOSED. 

I  then  requested  them  to  sit  down,  and  preached  to  them  on  the 
way  of  salvation  by  Jesus  Christ.  When  the  service  was  ended,  many 
involuntarily  exclaimed,  Nui  roa  maitai!  E  ake  makou  i  kanaka 
makou  no  Jesu,  a  i  ora  roa  ia  ia.  It  is  greatly  good!  We  wish  to 
become  the  people  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  to  be  saved  everlastingly  by 
him. 

We  recommended  them  to  think  on  his  love,  and  to  love  him  in 
return;  to  obey  him;  to  keep  the  Sabbath-day,  by  abstaining  from 
labour,  and  meeting  together  to  talk  about  what  they  had  heard;  to 
ask  God  in  prayer  to  teach  them  all  his  righteous  will;  and  to  send  to 
Naihe  their  chief,  or  the  missionaries  at  Oahu,  for  books,  and  a  per- 
son to  instruct  them. 

Bidding  them  farewell,  we  directed  our  course  towards  the  shore, 
and  in  about  half  an  hour  came  to  Honuapo,  an  extensive  and  popu- 
lous village,  standing  on  a  level  bed  of  lava  which  runs  out  a  con- 
siderable distance  into  the  sea. 

THE   LEGEND   OF  KAWELOHEA. 

As  we  approached  this  place,  the  natives  led  us  to  a  steep  precipice, 
overhanging  the   sea,   and   pointed   out   a   rock   in  the    water  below, 


151 

called  Kaverohea.  They  seemed  to  regard  both  the  place  where  we 
were,  and  the  rock  below,  with  strong  feelings  of  superstition;  at 
which  we  were  not  surprised,  when  they  informed  us,  that  formerly 
a  jealous  husband,  who  resided  a  short  distance  from  the  place,  mur- 
dered his  wife  in  a  cruel  manner  with  a  stone,  and  afterwards  dragged 
her  down  to  the  place  where  we  stood,  and  threw  her  into  the  sea; 
that  she  fell  on  the  rock  which  we  saw,  and,  immediately  afterwards, 
while  he  stood  ruminating  on  what  he  had  done,  called  out  to  him 
in  the  most  affectionate  and  lamentable  strains,  attesting  her  inno- 
cence of  the  crime  for  which  she  had  been  murdered. 

From  the  rock,  which  is  still  called  by  her  name,  they  said  her 
voice  was  often  heard  calling  to  her  husband,  and  there  her  form  was 
sometimes  seen.  They  also  informed  us,  that  her  lamentations  were 
considered  by  them  as  ominous  of  some  great  disaster;  as  of  war,  or 
famine,  or  the  death  of  a  distinguished  chief.  We  told  them  it  was 
in  imagination  only  that  she  was  seen,  and  that  her  supposed  lamen- 
tations were  but  the  noise  of  the  surf,  or  the  whistling  of  the  winds. 

PRIMITIVE  PEOPLE  AT  HONUAPO. 

From  the  manner  in  which  we  were  received  at  Honuapo,  we 
should  not  think  this  village  had  been  often  visited  by  foreigners; 
for  on  our  descending  from  the  high  land  to  the  lava  on  which  the 
town  stands,  the  natives  came  running  out  to  meet  us  from  all 
quarters,  and  soon  gathered  so  thickly  around  us,  that  we  found  it 
difficult  to  proceed. 

Boys  and  girls  danced  and  hallooed  before  us;  vast  numbers  walked 
by  our  side,  or  followed  us,  occasionally  taking  us  by  the  hand,  or 
catching  hold  of  some  part  of  our  clothes. 

They  seemed  surprised  at  our  addressing  them  in  their  own  tongue, 
but  were  much  more  so  when  Mauae,  who  preceded  us  with  a  large 
fan  in  his  hand,  told  them  we  were  teachers  of  religion, — that  we  had 
preached  and  prayed  at  every  place  where  we  had  stopped,  and  should 
most  likely  do  so  there  before  we  slept. 

We  passed  through  the  town  to  the  residence  of  the  head  man, 
situated  on  the  farthest  point  towards  the  sea.  He  invited  us  to 
his  house,  procured  us  water  to  wash  our  feet  with,  and  immediately 
sent  to  an  adjacent  pond  for  some  fish  for  our  supper.  While  that 
was  preparing,  the  people  assembled  in  crowds  around  the  house, 
and  a  little  before  sun-set  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  them  in  the 
front  yard.  Upwards  of  200  were  present,  and,  during  the  whole  of 
the  service,  sat  quietly  and  listened  attentively. 

TATOOING   SIMILAR  TO  THAT  OP   NEW  ZEALAND. 

A  number  of  the  people  at  this  place  had  one  of  their  lips  tataued, 
after   the  manner   of   some   of  the   New   Zealand   tribes.     There   was 


152 

more  tatauing  here  than  we  had  observed  at  any  other  place;  but  it 
was  very  rudely  done,  displaying  much  less  taste  and  elegance  than 
the  figures  on  the  bodies  of  either  the  New  Zealanders,  Tahitians,  or 
Marquesians,  which  are  sometimes  really  beautiful. 

After  the  service,  some  of  our  number  visited  the  ruins  of  a  heiau, 
on  a  point  of  lava  near  our  lodging.  During  the  evening  we  made 
some  inquiries  respecting  it,  found  it  had  been  dedicated  to  Tairi, 
and  was  thrown  down  in  the  general  destruction  of  idols  in  1819. 

STATUS   OF   IDOLATRY   AND   RELIGION. 
They   seemed   to   think   it   was   well   that   idolatry   had   been   pro- 
hibited by  the  king;    said  its   frequent  requisitions   kept  them   very 
poor,  and  occasioned  them  much  labour. 

They  were,  as  might  be  expected,  almost  entirely  ignorant  of  the 
religion  of  Jesus  Christ.  And  from  what  we  saw  and  heard  on  first 
arriving  among  them,  we  should  fear  they  were  much  degraded  by 
immorality  and  vice. 

One  man  only  from  this  place  had  been  at  Honoruru,  in  Oahu, 
since  the  king  had  been  favourably  disposed  towards  Christianity; 
while  there,  he  once  attended  the  public  worship  in  the  native  lan- 
guage, and  heard  about  Jesus  Christ,  the  God  of  the  foreigners;  but 
had  given  a  very  imperfect  account  of  him. 

The  people  seemed  inclined  to  listen  attentively  to  what  was  said 
about  salvation  through  the  Eedeemer;  and  though  fatigued  by  our 
journey  and  exercises  with  the  people  of  the  different  places  where 
we  had  stopped  during  the  day,  we  esteemed  it  a  privilege  to  spend 
the  evening  in  conversation  on  a  topic  of  so  much  interest  and  im- 
portance, and  experienced  no  small  degree  of  pleasure,  while  en- 
deavouring to  eonvey  to  their  uninformed,  but  apparently  inquiring 
minds,  a  concise  and  simple  view  of  the  leading  doctrines  and  duties 
of  our  holy  religion. 

PEOPLE  TALKED  ALL  NIGHT. 
At  a  late  hour,  we  asked  them  to  unite  with  us  in  our  evening 
worship,  and  afterwards  lay  down  to  rest.  Many  of  the  people  in 
the  house,  however,  continued  talking  till  almost  daylight.  The  at- 
tention given  by  the  people  to  our  instructions  is  not  to  be  considered 
as  evidencing  their  conversion  to  Christianity,  or  indicating  any  de- 
cisive change  in  their  views  or  feelings,  but  are  merely  noticed  aa 
pleasing  manifestations  of  their  willingness  to  listen  to  the  truths 
we  are  desirous  to  promulgate  amongst  them. 

GREAT    INTEREST   IN    RELIGIOUS    SUBJECTS. 
On  the  morning  of  the  30th,  we  arose  much  refreshed,  but  Makoa 
not  having  arrived  with  our  baggage,  we  did  not  leave  Honuapo  so 
early  as  we  could  have  wished. 


1 4 


1 


154 

Great  numbers  of  the  people  crowded  our  house  at  an  early  hour, 
and,  while  breakfast  was  preparing,  they  were  addressed  from  Psalm 
xcvi.  4.  When  the  service  was  ended,  the  people  were  anxious  to 
know  more  about  these  things;  some  time  was  therefore  spent  in 
conversation  with  them.  We  had  seldom-  seen  any  who  appeared  more 
interested  in  the  truths  of  the  gospel,  than  the  people  of  Honuapo. 

About  eight  a.  m.  Makoa  arrived,  but  without  our  baggage.  The 
men  who  were  bringing  it,  he  said,  could  not  be  persuaded  to  come 
on  last  night,  but  had  set  out  this  morning,  and  would  soon  over- 
take us. 

MAKOA    FEARS    VOLCANO    GODS. 

We  now  acquainted  him  with  our  intention  to  visit  the  volcano, 
and  requested  him  to  hasten  on  the  men  with  our  baggage,  as  we 
should   want  more  things  there  than  we   could  conveniently  carry. 

He  objected  strongly  to  our  going  thither,  as  we  should  most  likely 
be  mischievous,  and  offend  Pele  or  Nahoaarii,  gods  of  the  volcano, 
by  plucking  the  ohelo,  (sacred  berries,)  digging  up  the  sand,  or 
throwing  stones  into  the  crater,  and  then  they  would  either  rise  out 
of  the  crater  in  volumes  of  smoke,  send  up  large  stones  to  fall  upon 
us  and  kill  us,  or  cause  darkness  and  rain  to  overtake  us,  so  that  we 
should  never  find  our  way  back. 

We  told  him  we  did  not  apprehend  any  danger  from  the  gods; 
that  we  knew  there  were  none;  and  should  certainly  visit  the  volcano. 

If  we  were  determined  on  going,  he  said,  we  must  go  by  ourselves, 
he  would  go  with  us  as  far  as  Kapapala,  the  last  village  at  which  we 
should  stop,  and  about  twenty  miles'  on  this  side  of  it;  from  thence 
he  would  descend  to  the  sea-shore,  and  wait  till  we  overtook  him. 

The  governor,  he  said,  had  told  him  not  to  go  there,  and,  if  he  had 
not,  he  should  not  venture  near  it,  for  it  was  a  fearful  place. 

FROM  HONUAPO  TO  HOKUKANO. 

We  waited  till  after  nine  o'clock,  when,  the  men  not  arriving  with 
our  baggage,  we  proceeded  on  our  way,  leaving  Makoa  to  wait  for 
them,  and  come  after  us  as  far  as  Kapapala,  where  we  expected  to 
spend  the  night.  As  we  walked  through  the  village,  numbers  of  the 
people  came  out  of  their  houses,  and  followed  us  for  a  mile  or  two, 
when  they  gradually  fell  behind.  When  they  designed  to  leave  us, 
they  would  run  on  a  little  way  ahead,  sit  down  on  a  rock,  give  us 
their  parting  aroha  as  we  passed,  and  continue  to  follow  us  with  their 
eyes  till  we  were  out  of  sight. 

After  travelling  some  time  over  a  wide  tract  of  lava,  in  some  places 
almost  as  rugged  as  any  we  had  yet  seen,  we  reached  Hokukano.  Here 
we  found  an  excellent   spring  of  fresh  water,  the  first  we  had  yet 


155 

seen  on  our  tour,  though  we  had  travelled  upwards  of  a  hundred 
miles. 

While  we  were  stopping  to  drink,  and  rest  ourselves,  many  natives 
gathered  around  us  from  the  neighbourhood.  We  requested  them  to 
accompany  us  to  a  cluster  of  houses  a  little  further  on,  which  they 
very  cheerfully  did;  and  here  I  addressed  them,  and  invited  all  who 
were  athirst,  and  whosoever  would,  to  come  and  take  of  the  water 
of  life  freely. 

They  sat  quietly  on  the  lava  till  the  concluding  prayer  was  finished, 
when  several  simultaneously  exclaimed:  "He  mea  maitai  ke  ora,  e 
makemake  au:"  A  good  thing  is  salvation;  I  desire  it.  They  then 
proposed  several  questions,  which  we  answered  apparently  to  their 
satisfaction,  and  afterwards  kept  on  our  way. 

FISH    PONDS    AT    HILEA. 

We  travelled  over  another  rugged  tract  of  lava  about  two  hundred 
rods  wide.  It  had  been  most  violently  torn  to  pieces,  and  thrown 
up  in  the  wildest  confusion;  in  some  places  it  was  heaped  forty  or  fifty 
feet  high.  The  road  across  it  was  formed  of  large  smooth  round 
stones,  placed  in  a  line  two  or  three  feet  apart.  By  stepping  along 
on  these  stones,  we  passed  over,  though  not  without  considerable 
fatigue. 

xVbout  half-past  eleven  we  reached  Hilea,  a  pleasant  village  be- 
longing to  the  governor.  As  we  approached  it,  we  observed  a  num- 
ber of  artificial  fish-ponds,  formed  by  excavating  the  earth  to  the 
depth  of  two  or  three  feet,  and  banking  up  the  sides.  The  sea  is  let 
into  them  occasionally,  and  they  are  generally  well  stocked  with  ex- 
cellent fish  of  the  mullet  kind. 

We  went  into  the  house  of  the  head  man,  and  asked  him  to  collect 
the  people  together,  as  we  wished  to  speak  to  them  about  the  true 
God.  He  sent  out,  and  most  of  the  people  of  the  village,  then  at 
home,  about  two  hundred  in  number,  soon  collected  in  his  house,  which 
was  large,  where  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  them.  They  appeared 
gratified  with  what  they  had  heard,  and  pressed  us  very  much  to 
spend  the  day  with  them.  We  could  not  consent  to  this,  as  we  had 
travelled  but  a  short  distance  since  leaving  Honuapo. 

HOSPITALITY  OF  HILEA  CHIEF. 

The  head  man  then  asked  us  to  stop  till  he  could  prepare  some 
refreshment;  saying,  he  had  hogs,  fish,  taro,  potatoes,  and  bananas  in 
abundance.  We  told  him  we  were  not  in  need  of  any  thing,  and 
would  rather  go  on.  He  said,  probably  the  governor  would  be  angry 
with  him,  banish  him,  or  perhaps  take  off  his  head,  when  he  should 
hear  that  he  had  not  entertained  his  friends  as  they  passed  through 


156 

the  place.  We  ate  a  few  ripe  plantains  which  he  placed  before  us, 
and  then  took  our  leave,  assuring  him  that  we  would  speak  to  the 
governor  on  the  subject  of  taking  off  his  head,  &c.  This  seemed  to 
satisfy  him  in  some  measure,  and,  after  accompanying  us  a  short 
distance,  he  gave  us  his  aroha,  and  returned. 

SCENE   OP   KEOUA'S    PINAL    DEFEAT. 

As  we  left  Hilea,  our  guide  pointed  out  a  small  hill,  called  Makanau, 
where  Keoua,  the  last  rival  of  Tamehameha,  surrendered  himself  up 
to  the  warriors  under  Taiana,  by  whom  he  had  been  conquered  in 
two  successive  engagements.  He  was  the  younger  brother  of  Kauike- 
ouli,  the  eldest  son  and  successor  of  Taraiopu. 

After  the  battle  of  Keei,  in  which  his  brother  was  slain,  he  fled 
to  Hiro,  the  large  eastern  division  of  the  island.  The  warriors  of 
Hiro,  with  those  of  Puna,  and  some  parts  of  Kau,  on  the  south-east, 
together  with  those  of  part  of  Hamakua  on  the  north-east,  declared 
themselves  in  his  favour,  as  the  immediate  descendant  of  Taraiopu. 
Among  them  he  resided  several  years,  undisturbed  by  Tamehameha, 
frequently  making  attacks  on  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  thtf 
island,  in  which,  however,  he  was  generally  repulsed  with  loss. 

Notwithstanding  the  defeats  he  had  experienced,  he  was  still  de- 
sirous to  obtain  the  sovereignty  of  the  whole  island,  to  the  throne  of 
which  he  considered  himself  the  legitimate  heir,  and  in  the  year  1789 
marched  from  Hiro  with  all  his  forces,  to  attack  Kau  and  Kona  on 
the  western  shores. 

A  DESTRUCTIVE  ERUPTION. 

He  took  the  inland  road,  and  on  his  way  across  the  island  halted 
for  the  night  in  the  vicinity  of  the  volcano.  An  eruption  took  place 
that  very  night,  and  destroyed  the  warriors  of  two  small  villages, 
in   all  about  eighty  men.     This  was  considered  an  ill  omen. 

He,  however,  continued  his  march,  and  shortly  after  reached  Tairitii. 
Here  he  was  met  by  a  body  of  Tamehameha 's  warriors  under  Taiana, 
a  chief  of  whom  frequent  mention  is  made  in  Meares's  and  Dixon's 
voyages. 

An  engagement  took  place,  in  which  he  was  defeated,  and  obliged 
to  retreat  towards  Hiro.  The  victorious  party  pursued,  and  over- 
took him  at  Puakokoki,  in  the  division  of  Puna,  where  another  battle 
was  fought,  in  which  his  forces  were  totally  routed,  and  almost  all 
of  them  slain.  He  saved  himself  by  flying  to  the  mountains,  attended 
by  a  few  of  his  kahu,  or  faithful  companions.  Taiana  and  his  war- 
riors returned  to  Waiohinu,  there  to  remain  till  the  place  of  his 
retreat  should  be  discovered. 


157 
SURRENDER    OF    KEOUA. 

After  some  time,  Keoua,  Kaoreioku,  his  younger  brother,  and  a 
few  friends  that  were  with  them,  came  to  Makanau.  From  hence 
he  despatched  a  messenger  to  Taiana,  requesting  permission  to  pass 
to  the  sea-shore,  in  order  that  he  might  go  and  surrender  himself  to 
Tamehameha,  who  was  then  at  Towaihae. 

Taiana,  and  the  rest  of  the  warriors,  agreed  to  allow  him  to  pass 
unmolested  through  their  camp,  and  Keaveaheuru,  the  father  of 
Naihe,  present  chief  of  Kaavaroa,  and  Kamahoe,  father  of  Hoapiri, 
two  near  relatives  of  Keoua,  though  attached  to  Tamehameha,  went 
back  to  assure  him  of  his  safety,  and  of  the  friendly  feelings  of 
Tamehameha  towards  him. 

KEOUA" S   PROGRESS    TO    KAWAIHAE. 

He  accompanied  them  to  Tairitii,  where  they  embarked  in  Taiana 's 
canoes,  and  directed  their  course  along  the  western  shores  to  Towai- 
hae. On  their  way  he  stopped  at  several  places,  particularly  Hono- 
malino,  Honaunau,  Kaavaroa,  Keauhou,  and  Kairua.  The  people  at 
each  of  the  places,  at  Honaunau  in  particular,  crowded  around  him, 
brought  him  presents  of  food,  hogs,  tapa,  and  fruits,  and,  by  every 
means  in  their  power,  demonstrated  their  attachment  to  him.  Many 
of  them  wept,  some  on  account  of  the  joy  they  felt  at  seeing  him 
again;  others,  from  a  foreboding  fear  of  the  result  of  his  surrender  to 
Tamehameha. 

He  stopped  two  nights  at  Paraoa,  a  small  village  a  few  miles  to 
the  southward  of  Towaihae,  where  he  received  the  greatest  assurances 
of  Tamehameha 's  kind  intentions;  and  on  the  morning  of  the  third 
day,  proceeded  to  Towaihae. 

THE   TREACHEROUS   MURDER   OF   KEOUA. 

Tamehameha,  with  his  chiefs,  was  standing  on  the  beach  as  his 
canoe  came  in  sight,  and,  with  most  of  the  chiefs,  intended  to  protect 
him;  but  Keeaumoku,  a  chief  of  the  most  sanguinary  disposition,  who 
had  grappled  with  his  elder  brother  in  the  battle  at  Keei,  had  deter- 
mined on  his  death;  and  fearing  Tamehameha  might  frustrate  his 
purpose,  if  the  canoe  was  allowed  to  land,  he  waded  above  his  middle 
into  the  sea;  and  regardless  of  the  orders  of  Tamehameha,  and  the 
expostulations  of  the  other  chiefs,  caught  hold  of  the  canoe  as  it 
approached  the  shore,  and  either  with  his  pahoa,  or  a  long  knife, 
stabbed  Keoua  to  the  heart  as  he  sat  in  the  stern.  He  also  mur- 
dered seven  of  his  companions  and  friends,  who  came  in  the  same 
canoe. 

In  another  canoe  was  Kaorrioku,  his  younger  brother,  and  the 
father  of  Pauahi,  one  of  the  wives  of  Rihoriho,  the  late  sovereign  of 


158 

the  islands.     Tamehameha  gave  strict  orders  to  protect  it,  and  their 
lives  were  spared. 

Tamehameha,  and  many  of  the  chiefs,  particularly  Keaveaheuru 
and  Kamahoe,  are  reported  to  have  regretted  his  death.  Keeaumoku, 
however,  justified  his  horrid  act  by  saying,  that  if  Keoua  had  been 
allowed  to  live,  they  should  never  have  been  secure. 

THE  REPRODUCTIVE  PEBBLES  OF  NINOLE. 

We  had  not  travelled  far  before  we  reached  Ninole,  a  small  village 
on  the  sea-shore,  celebrated  on  account  of  a  short  pebbly  beach 
called  Koroa,  the  stones  of  which  were  reported  to  possess  very 
singular  properties,  amongst  others,  that  of  propagating  their  species. 

The  natives  told  us  it  was  a  wahi  pana  (place  famous)  for  supply- 
ing the  stones  employed  in  making  small  adzes  and  hatchets,  before 
they  were  acquainted  with  the  use  of  iron;  but  particularly  for  fur- 
nishing the  stones  of  which  the  gods  were  made,  who  presided  over 
most  of  the  games  of  Hawaii.  Some  powers  of  discrimination,  they 
told  us,  were  necessary  to  discover  the  stones  which  would  answer  to 
be  deified. 

THE   MANUFACTURE    OF   GODS. 

When  selected,  they  were  taken  to  the  heiau,  and  there  several 
ceremonies  were  performed  over  them.  Afterwards,  when  dressed, 
and  taken  to  the  place  where  the  games  were  practised,  if  the  parties 
to  whom  they  belonged  were  successful,  their  fame  was  established; 
but,  if  unsuccessful  for  several  times  together,  they  were  either 
broken  to  pieces,  or  thrown  contemptuously  away. 

When  any  were  removed  for  the  purpose  of  being  transformed  into 
gods,  one  of  each  sex  was  generally  selected,  and  were  always  wrapped 
very  carefully  together  in  a  piece  of  native  cloth.  After  a  certain 
time,  they  said  a  small  stone  would  be  found  with  them,  which,  when 
grown  to  the  size  of  its  parents,  was  taken  to  the  heiau  or  temple, 
and  afterwards  made  to  preside  at  the  games. 

We  were  really  surprised  at  the  tenacity  with  which  this  last  opinion 
was  adhered  to,  not  only  by  the  poor  people  of  the  place,  but  by 
several  others,  with  whom  we  have  since  conversed,  and  whom  we 
should  have  supposed  better  informed.  It  required  all  the  argument 
and  ridicule  that  we  could  employ,  to  make  them  believe  it  could  not 
possibly  be  so.  Koroa  was  also  a  place  of  importance  in  times  of 
war,  as  the  best  stones  used  in  their  slings  were  procured  here. 

GAME   OF   KONANE  DESCRIBED. 

This  place  is  also  celebrated  as  furnishing  the  small  black  and 
white  stones  used  by  the  natives  in  playing  at  konane,  a  native  game, 
resembling  drafts,  and  apparently  more  intricate. 


159 

The  konane  board  is  generally  two  feet  long,  and  contains  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  squares,  usually  fourteen  in  a  row.  It  is  a 
favourite  amusement  with  the  old  men;  and  we  have  known  one  game, 
commenced  early  in  the  morning,  hardly  concluded  on  the  same  day. 

"We  examined  some  of  the  stones.  The  black  ones  appeared  to  be 
pieces  of  trap,  or  compact  lava.  The  white  ones  were  branches  of 
white  coral,  common  to  all  the  islands  of  the  Pacific.  The  angles 
of  both  were  worn  away,  and  the  attrition  occasioned  by  the  con- 
tinual rolling  of  the  surf  on  the  beach,  had  also  given  them  a  con- 
siderable polish. 

AT    PUNALUU — TRAVELING    INLAND. 

After  travelling  about  two  miles,  we  came  to  Punaruu,  where  the 
people  of  that  and  the  next  village,  Wailau,  collected  together  in  a 
large  house,  and  were  addressed  on  the  nature  and  attributes  of  the 
true  God,  and  the  way  of  salvation. 

In  general,  speaking  to  the  people  in  the  open  air  was  preferred, 
as  we  then  had  more  hearers  than  when  we  addressed  them  in  a 
house.  But  in  the  middle  of  the  day  we  usually  found  it  too  hot  to 
stand  so  long  in  the  sun.  The  services  which  we  held  in  the  morning 
and  evening  were  always  out  of  doors. 

We  now  left  the  road  by  the  sea-side,  and  directed  our  course  to- 
wards the  mountains.  Our  path  lay  over  a  rich  yellow-looking  soil  of 
decomposed  lava,  or  over  a  fine  black  vegetable  mould,  in  which  we 
occasionally  saw  a  few  masses  of  lava  partially  decomposed,  sufficient 
to  convince  us  that  the  whole  had  once  been  overflowed,  and  that 
lava  was  the  basis  of  the  whole  tract  of  country.  There  was  but 
little  cultivation,  though  the  ground  appeared  well  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  all  the  most  valuable  produce  of  the  islands. 

DOMESTIC   LIFE    OP   NATIVES    AT    MAKAAKA. 

After  walking  up  a  gentle  ascent  about  eight  miles,  we  came  to  a 
solitary  hamlet,  called  Makaaka,  containing  four  or  five  houses,  in 
which  three  or  four  families  were  residing.  We  entered  one  of  them 
to  take  some  refreshment  and  rest  after  the  fatigue  of  travelling  in 
the  heat  of  the  day.  The  people  of  the  house,  though  poor,  were  hos- 
pitable, and  gave  us  cheerfully  a  few  roots  of  taro  out  of  their  own 
oven. 

The  house  was  large,  and  beneath  one  roof  included  their  workshop, 
kitchen,  and  sleeping-room,  without  any  intervening  partitions. 

On  one  side  two  women  were  beating  native  cloth,  and  the  men 
were  at  work  on  a  new  canoe.  In  the  same  place  were  several  larger 
ones,  one  upwards  of  sixty  feet  long,  and  between  two  or  three  feet 
deep,  hollowed  out  of  a  single  tree.     The  workmen  told  us  they  were 


160 

making  a  pair  of  that  size  for  Kaikiocva,  guardian  of  the  young  prince 
Kauikeouli,  whose  tenants  they  were. 

Near  the  south  end  of  the  house,  which  was  quite  open,  was  their 
fire-place,  where  a  man  was  preparing  a  quantity  of  arum  or  taro  for 
the  oven.  The  roots  were  oblong,  from  -six  inches  to  a  foot  in  length, 
and  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter.  The  substance  of  the  root  is 
somewhat  like  that  of  a  potato,  but  more  fibrous;  and  to  the  taste, 
before  dressed,  is  exceedingly  pungent  and  acrid. 

METHODS    OF    COOKING   DESCRIBED. 

The  tender  leaves  of  this  plant  are  sometimes  wrapped  up  in  plan- 
tain leaves,  baked,  and  eaten  by  the  natives;  but  in  general  the  root 
only  is  used  as  an  article  of  food. 

The  oven  was  a  hole  in  the  earth,  three  or  four  feet  in  diameter, 
and  nearly  a  foot  deep.  A  number  of  small  stones  were  spread  over 
the  bottom,  a  few  dried  leaves  laid  on  them,  and  the  necessary 
quantity  of  sticks  and  firewood  piled  up,  and  covered  over  with  small 
stones.  The  dry  leaves  were  then  kindled,  and  while  the  stones 
were  heating,  the  man  scraped  off  the  skin  or  rind  of  the  taro  with 
a  shell,  and  split  the  roots  into  two  or  three  pieces. 

When  the  stones  were  red-hot,  they  were  spread  out  with  a  stick, 
the  remaining  fire-brands  taken  away;  and  when  the  dust  and  ashes, 
on  the  stones  at  the  bottom,  had  been  brushed  off  with  a  green  bough, 
the  taro,  wrapped  in  leaves,  was  laid  on  them  till  the  oven  was  full, 
when  a  few  more  leaves  were  spread  on  the  taro;  hot  stones  were 
then  placed  on  these  leaves,  and  a  covering  six  inches  thick  of  leaves 
and  earth  spread  over  the  whole.  In  this  state  the  taro  remained  to 
steam  or  bake  about  half  an  hour,  when  they  opened  their  oven,  and 
took  out  as  many  roots  as  were  needed. 

The  arum  or  taro  is  an  excellent  vegetable,  boiled  as  we  are  accus- 
tomed to  dress  potatoes,  but  is  not  so  farinaceous  and  pleasant  as 
when  baked  in  a  native  oven. 

Sometimes  the  natives  broil  their  food  on  heated  stones,  or  roast  it 
before  their  fire;  but  these  ovens  are  most  generally  used  for  cooking 
their  several  kinds  of  victuals.  Potatoes  and  yams  are  dressed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  taro;  but  pigs,  dogs,  fish,  and  birds,  are  wrapped 
in  green  leaves  before  they  are  put  into  the  oven. 

HOSPITALITY  OF  NATIVES. 

"We  saw  some  Muscovy  ducks  feeding  in  the  garden,  and  offered  to 
purchase  one;  but  they  said  they  were  rearing  them  for  their  landlord, 
and  could  not  part  with  any;  they  furnished  us,  however,  with  a 
fowl,  with  which,  and  some  biscuit  we  had  with  us,  we  made  a  toler- 
able meal. 


161 

We  stopped  about  two  hours,  during  which,  we  did  not  omit  to 
speak  to  the  inhabitants  respecting  the  Saviour. 

We  also  offered  to  remunerate  them  for  what  we  had  received,  but 
they  refused  to  take  any  thing.  We  therefore  made  the  children  a 
present  of  a  looking-glass  and  a  few  strings  of  beads,  and  then 
resumed  our  journey  over  the  same  verdant  country,  frequently 
crossing  small  valleys  and  water-courses,  which,  however,  were  all 
dry. 

The  surface  of  the  country  was  covered  with  a  light  yellow  soil, 
and  clothed  with  tall  grass,  but  the  sides  and  bed  of  every  water- 
course we  passed  were  composed  of  volcanic  rock,  a  kind  of  basalt, 
or  dark  grey  compact  lava,  with  fine  grains  of  olivin,  the  different 
strata  lying  in  a  direction  gently  inclined  towards  the  sea. 

KAALAALA    AND    KAPAPALA    THICKLY    SETTLED. 

The  land,  though  very  good,  was  but  partially  cultivated,  till  we 
came  to  Kaaraara,  where  we  passed  through  large  fields  of  taro  and 
potatoes,  with  sugar-cane  and  plantains  growing  very  luxuriantly. 

Maruae,  the  chief  of  the  place,  came  down  to  the  road  side  as  we 
passed  by,  and  asked  us  to  stay  for  the  night  at  his  house;  but  as 
Kapapala  was  only  four  miles  distant,  we  thought  we  could  reach  it 
before  dark,  and  therefore  thanked  him,  and  proposed  to  walk  on. 
As  our  boys  were  tired  with  their  bundles,  we  asked  him  to  allow  a 
man  to  carry  them  to  Kapapala.  He  immediately  ordered  one  to  go 
with  us,  and  we  passed  on  through  a  continued  succession  of  planta- 
tions, in  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 

VOLCANIC  MANIFESTATION. 

During  the  whole  of  the  time  we  had  been  travelling  on  the  high 
land,  we  had  perceived  a  number  of  columns  of  smoke  and  vapour, 
rising  at  a  considerable  distance,  and  also  one  large  steady  column, 
that  seemed  little  affected  by  the  wind;  and  this,  we  were  informed, 
arose  from  the  great  crater  at  Kirauea.  The  smaller  columns  were 
emitted  at  irregular  intervals  of  several  seconds  between  each.  On 
inquiry  we  learned,  that  they  arose  from  deep  chasms  in  the  earth, 
and  were  accompanied  by  a  hot  and  sulphureous  vapour. 

CONDITIONS    AT    KAPAPALA. 

About  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  reached  Kapapala,  and 
directed  our  weary  steps  to  the  house  of  Tapuahi,  the  head  man.  He 
kindly  bade  us  welcome,  spread  a  mat  in  the  front  of  his  house  for 
us  to  sit  down  upon,  and  brought  us  a  most  agreeable  beverage,  a 
calabash  full  of  good  cool  fresh  water. 

The    thermometer    at    sun-set   stood    at    70°,   and    we   sat   for    some 

11 


162 

time  talking  with  the  people  around  us.  The  air  from  the  mountains, 
however,  soon  began  to  be  keen.  We  then  went  into  the  house,  and, 
although  we  were  in  a  tropical  climate,  in  the  month  of  July,  we 
found  a  fire  very  comfortable.  It  was  kindled  in  a  hollow  place  in 
the  centre  of  the  earthen  floor,  surrounded  by  large  square  stones, 
and  gave  both  light  and  heat.  But  as  there  was  only  one  aperture, 
which,  as  in  the  houses  of  the  ancient  Britons,  answered  the  triple 
purpose  of  a  door,  a  window,  and  a  chimney,  the  smoke  was  sometimes 
rather  troublesome. 

A  PIG  MEMBER  OF  THE  FAMILY. 

Few  of  the  Hawaiian  females  are  without  some  favourite  animal. 
It  is  usually  a  dog.  Here,  however,  we  observed  a  species  of  pet 
that  we  had  not  seen  before.  It  was  a  curly-tailed  pig,  about  a  year 
and  a  half  old,  three  or  four  feet  long,  and  apparently  well  fed.  He 
belonged  to  two  sisters  of  our  host,  who  formed  part  of  his  family, 
and   joined  the   social  circle   around   the   evening  hearth. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Kapapala  we  noticed  a  variety  of  the 
paper-mulberry,  somewhat  different  from  that  generally  cultivated, 
which  grew  spontaneously,  and  appeared  indigenous.  Large  quanti- 
ties of  the  dried  bark  of  this  plant,  tied  up  in  bundles,  like  hemp  or 
flax,  were  piled  up  in  the  house  where  we  lodged.  It  is  used  in  manu- 
facturing a  kind  of  tapa,  called  mamake,  prized  throughout  the  islands 
on  account  of  its  strength  and  durability. 

About  eight  o'clock  a  pig  was  baked,  and  some  taro  prepared  by 
our  host  for  supper.  At  our  particular  request  he  was  induced  to 
partake  of  it,  though  contrary  to  the  etiquette  of  his  country. 

When  we  had  finished,  Tapuahi  and  his  household  assembled  for 
family  worship,  after  which  we  retired  to  rest.  We  had  travelled 
more  than  twenty  miles,  and  two  of  our  number  had  since  the  morn- 
ing spoken  four  times  to  the  people. 

Soon  after  sunrise  on  the  31st,  the  people  of  the  place  were  col- 
lected around  our  house.  I  requested  them  to  sit  down  in  front,  and, 
after  singing  a  hymn,  preached  to  them  a  short  and  plain  discourse. 
Mr.  Thurston  concluded  the  service  with  prayer.  The  people  remained 
in  the  place  for  nearly  an  hour,  and  made  many  inquiries. 

VOLCANIC    ACTIVITY    AT    PONAHOHOA. 

After  breakfast  three  of  our  number  went  to  visit  the  places  where 
we  had  seen  the  columns  of  smoke  rising  yesterday.  After  travelling 
about  five  miles,  over  a  country  fertile  and  generally  cultivated,  we 
came  to  Ponahohoa.  It  was  a  bed  of  ancient  lava,  the  surface  of 
which  was  decomposed;  and  in  many  places  shrubs  and  trees  had 
grown  to  a  considerable  height. 


164 

As  we  approached  the  places  whence  the  smoke  issued,  we  passed 
over  a  number  of  fissures  and  deep  chasms,  from  two  inches  to  six 
feet  in  width. 

The  whole  mass  of  rocks  had  evidently  been  rent  by  some  violent 
convulsion  of  the  earth,  at  no  very  distant  period;  and  when  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  ascending  columns  of  smoke  and  vapour,  we 
beheld  immediately  before  us  a  valley,  or  hollow,  about  half  a  mile 
across,  formed  by  the  sinking  of  the  whole  surface  of  ancient  lava, 
to  a  depth  of  fifty  feet  below  its  original  level. 

Its  superficies  was  intersected  by  fissures  in  every  direction;  and 
along  the  centre  of  the  hollow,  two  large  chasms,  of  irregular  form 
and  breadth,  were  seen  stretching  from  the  mountain  towards  the 
sea  in  a  south-and-by-west  direction,  and  extending  either  way  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 

The  principal  chasm  was  in  some  places  so  narrow  that  we  could 
step  over  it,  but  in  others  it  was  ten  or  twelve  feet  across.  It  was 
from  these   wider  portions  that  the   smoke   and   vapours   arose. 

As  we  descended  into  this  valley,  the  ground  sounded  hollow,  and 
in  several  places  the  lava  cracked  under  our  feet.  Towards  the  centre 
it  was  so  hot  that  we  could  not  stand  more  than  a  minute  in  the 
same  place. 

THE  GUIDE  FEARS  PELE. 

As  we  drew  near  one  of  the  apertures  that  emitted  smoke  and 
vapour,  our  guide  stopped,  and  tried  to  dissuade  us  from  proceeding 
any  further,  assuring  us  he  durst  not  venture  nearer  for  fear  of  Pele, 
the  deity  of  the  volcanoes. 

We  told  him  there  was  no  Pele  of  which  he  need  be  afraid;  but 
that  if  he  did  not  wish  to  accompany  us,  he  might  go  back  to  the 
bushes  at  the  edge  of  the  valley,  and  await  our  return.  He  imme- 
diately retraced  his  steps,  and  we  proceeded  on,  passing  as  near  some 
of  the  smoking  fissures,  as  the  heat  and  sulphureous  vapour  rising 
from  them  would  admit. 

We  looked  down  into  several,  but  it  was  only  in  three  or  four  that 
we  could  see  any  bottom.  The  depth  of  these  appeared  to  be  about 
fifty  or  sixty  feet,  and  the  bottoms  were  composed  of  loose  fragments 
of  rocks  and  large  stones,  that  had  fallen  in  from  the  top  or  sides 
of  the  chasm. 

Most  of  them  appeared  to  be  red-hot;  and  we  thought  we  saw 
flames  in  one,  but  the  smoke  was  generally  so  dense,  and  the  heat  so 
great,  that  we  could  not  look  long,  nor  see  very  distinctly  the  bot- 
tom of  any  of  them. 

DETAILS    OF    ERUPTIOX. 

Our  legs,  hands,  and  faces,  were  nearly  scorched  by  the  heat. 
Into   one   of  the   small   fissures  we   put   our   thermometer,   which   had 


165 

stood  at  84°;   it  instantly  rose  to  118°,   and,  probably,  would  have 
risen  much  higher,  could  we  have  held  it  longer  there. 

After  walking  along  the  middle  of  the  hollow  for  nearly  a  mile,  we 
came  to  a  place  where  the  chasm  was  about  three  feet  across,  at  its 
upper  edge,  though  apparently  much  wider  below,  and  about  forty 
feet  in  length;  and  from  which  a  large  quantity  of  lava  had  been  re- 
cently vomited.  It  had  been  thrown  in  detached  semifluid  pieces  to  a 
considerable  distance  in  every  direction,  and  from  both  sides  of  the 
opening  had  flowed  down  in  a  number  of  smaller  streams. 

The  appearance  of  the  tufts  of  long  grass  through  which  it  had 
run;  the  scorched  leaves  still  remaining  on  one  side  of  a  tree,  while 
the  other  side  was  reduced  to  charcoal,  and  the  strings  of  lava  hang- 
ing from  some  of  the  branches  like  stalactites;  together  with  the 
fresh  appearance  of  the  shrubs,  partially  overflowed,  and  broken 
down, — convinced  us  the  lava  had  been  thrown  out  only  a  few  days 
before.  It  was  highly  scoriaceous,  of  a  different  kind  from  the 
ancient  bed  of  which  the  whole  valley  was  composed,  being  of  a  jet- 
black  colour,  and  bright  variegated  lustre,  brittle,  and  porous;  while 
the  ancient  lava  was  of  a  gray  or  reddish  colour,  compact,  and  broken 
with  difficulty. 

VOLUMES  OF  SMOKE  AND  VAPOR. 

We  found  the  heat  to  vary  considerably  in  different  parts  of  the 
surface;  and  at  one  of  the  places,  where  a  quantity  of  lava  had 
been  thrown  out,  and  from  which  a  volume  of  smoke  continually 
issued,  we  could  stand  several  minutes  together,  without  inconven- 
ience. We  at  first  attributed  this  to  the  subterranean  fires  having 
become  extinct  beneath,  but  the  greater  thickness  of  the  crust  of 
ancient  lava,  at  that  place,  afterwards  appeared  to  us  the  most  prob- 
able cause,  as  the  volumes  of  smoke  and  vapour  which  constantly 
ascended,  indicated  the  vigorous  action  of  fire  below. 

I  took  a  drawing  of  this  place;  and  when  we  had  collected  as  many 
specimens  of  the  lava  as  we  could  conveniently  carry  back  to  our 
lodgings,  we  returned  to  our  guide,  whom  we  found  waiting  at  the 
spot  where  we  first  entered  the  hollow. 

DATE  OP  PONAHOAHOA  ERUPTION. 

As  he  was  a  resident  in  Kapapala,  and  owned  a  small  garden  near, 
we  endeavoured  to  learn  from  him  something  of  the  history  of  the 
phenomenon  before  us. 

He  told  us  that  the  two  large  chasms  were  formed  about  eleven 
moons  ago;  that  nothing  else  had  been  visible  till  nearly  two  moons 
back,  when  a  slight  earthquake  was  experienced  at  Kapapala,  and  the 
next  time  he  came  by,  the  ground  had  fallen  in,  forming  the  hollow 
that  we  saw,  which  also  appeared  full  of  fissures. 


166 

About  three  weeks  ago,  as  he  was  going  to  his  plantation,  he  said, 
he  saw  a  small  flame  issuing  from  the  apertures,  and  a  quantity  of 
smoking  lava  all  around;  the  branches  of  the  trees  that  stood  near 
were  also  broken  and  burnt,  and  several  of  them  still  smoking. 

VOLCANO   AT    PONAHOAHOA,    KAU. 

Having  gratified  our  curiosity,  we  prepared  to  leave  this  infant  vol- 
cano, for  such  to  us  it  appeared.  Although  the  surface,  at  least,  of  the 
whole  country  around  had  a  volcanic  origin,  it  seems  to  have  remained 
undisturbed  a  number  of  years,  perhaps  ages.  The  lava  is  decom- 
posed, frequently  a  foot  in  depth,  and  is  mingled  with  a  prolific  soil, 
fertile  in  vegetation,  and  profitable  to  its  proprietors;  and  we  felt  a 
sort  of  melancholy  interest  in  witnessing  the  first  exhibitions  of  re- 
turning action  after  so  long  a  repose  in  this  mighty  agent,  whose 
irresistible  energies  will,  probably,  at  no  very  remote  period,  spread 
desolation  over  a  district  now  smiling  in  verdure,  repaying  the  toils, 
and  gladdening  the  heart,  of  the  industrious  cultivator. 

Ponahohoa,  the  place  we  had  visited,  is  situated  in  the  district  of 
Kapapala,  in  the  north-east  part  of  the  division  of  Kau,  and  is,  as  near 
as  we  could  judge,  from  ten  to  twelve  miles  from  the  sea-shore,  and 
about  twenty  miles  from  the  great  volcano  at  the  foot  of  Mouna  Roa. 

The  road  by  which  we  returned  lay  through  a  number  of  fields  of 
mountain  taro,  which  appears  to  be  cultivated  here  more  extensively 
than  the  sweet  potato. 

USES  OF  THE  WILIWILI  TREE. 

On  the  edge  of  one  of  these  fields  we  sat  down  in  the  grass  to  rest, 
beneath  a  clump  of  beautiful  trees,  the  Erythrina  corollodendrum; 
a  tree  we  frequently  met  with  in  the  mountains,  sometimes  covered 
with  beautiful  flowers,  and  always  affording  an  agreeable  shade.  It 
is  called  by  the  natives  oviriviri,  or  viriviri.  Its  branches  are  much 
used  in  erecting  fences,  on  account  of  the  readiness  with  which  they 
take  root  when  planted  in  the  ground.  The  wood  is  also  employed 
for  making  the  carved  stools  placed  under  their  canoes,  when  drawn 
on  the  beach,  or  laid  up  in  their  houses.  The  best  kind  of  surf -boards 
are  also  made  of  this  wood,  which  is  lighter  than  any  other  the  natives 
possess. 

On  our  way  back,  we  also  passed  several  hills,  whose  broad  base 
and  irregular  tops  shewed  them  originally  to  have  been  craters.  They 
must  be  very  ancient,  as  they  were  covered  with  shrubs  and  trees. 
From  them  must  have  come  the  then  molten,  but  now  indurated,  flood 
over  which  we  were  travelling. 


167 

OTHER  VOLCANIC   ACTIVITY. 

Several  small  columns  of  smoke  were  seen  rising  near  them  from 
fissures  recently  made. 

About  two  p.  m.  we  reached  our  lodgings,  and  dismissed  the  man 
who  had  shewed  us  the  way,  with  a  remuneration  for  his  trouble. 

Mr.  Harwood,  who  had  arrived  during  our  absence,  informed  us, 
that  on  reaching  Kaaraara  last  night,  he  took  up  his  lodging  with 
Maruae,  the  chief  of  the  place,  by  whom  he  had  been  hospitably  enter- 
tained. Mauae,  and  his  two  companions,  who  had  also  slept  at  Kaara- 
ara, arrived  with  him,  but  nothing  had  been  heard  of  Makoa,  or  our 
baggage;  and  we  began  to  suspect  he  would  not  follow  us,  even  so 
far  as  he  had  promised. 

TRAVELLERS  FROM  KEALAKEKUA. 

Between  three  and  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  31st  of 
July,  a  party  of  travellers,  consisting  of  four  men  and  a  woman, 
entered  the  house  in  which  we  were  stopping,  and  sat  down  to  rest. 
We  soon  learned  that  they  belonged  to  Kearakomo,  in  Puna,  whither 
they  were  going,  by  a  road  that  also  led  to  the  great  volcano;  and 
having  before  experienced  the  great  inconvenience  of  travelling  with- 
out a  guide  over  a  country  of  which  we  were  entirely  ignorant,  it 
appeared  desirable  that  some  of  us  at  least  should  go  with  them.  "We 
expressed  our  intention  to  accompany  them.  They  were  pleased,  and 
told  us  they  would  wait  till  we  were  ready. 

No  tidings  had  yet  been  received  of  Makoa,  or  our  baggage,  our 
biscuit  was  nearly  expended,  and  being  without  even  a  change  of 
linen,  we  did  not  think  it  expedient  to  leave  this  place  altogether 
before  our  baggage  should  arrive,  especially  as  we  knew  it  would  be 
several  days  before  we  should  reach  any  of  the  villages  on  the  shores 
of  Puna.  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich,  therefore,  thought  best  to 
wait  at  least  another  day,  while  the  rest  of  us  should  proceed  with 
the  travellers. 

Having  made  this  arrangement,  we  immediately  packed  up  our  pro- 
visions, which  were  but  a  scanty  supply,  and  filled  our  canteens  with 
water.  The  natives  filled  their  calabashes;  and  about  five  p.  m. 
Messrs.  Thurston,  Harwood,  and  myself,  left  Kapapala,  in  company 
with  the  people  of  Puna. 

A   CAVE   RESIDENCE   AT   KAPUAIII. 

We  proceeded  a  short  distance  to  a  place  called  Kapuahi,  (the 
hearth  of  fire,)  where  we  stopped  at  the  entrance  of  a  large  cave, 
arched  over  by  a  thick  crust  of  ancient  lava.  Here  two  or  three 
families,  consisting  of  men,  women,  and  children,  were  residing.  Its 
interior  was  rather  dark,  as  the  entrance  was  the  only  aperture  that 


168 

admitted  any  light;  yet  the  inhabitants  of  this  dreary  abode  seemed 
cheerful  and  contented,  and  perhaps  felt  themselves  favoured  by  Pele, 
in  having  a  permanent  abode  furnished  free  of  labour  or  expense. 

The  women  were  employed  in  making  mats,  and  beating  tapa; 
the  children  were  playing  among  the  fragments  of  lava  on  the  out- 
side, and  the  men  were  preparing  an  oven  in  which  to  bake  some  taro. 
We  wished  to  purchase  a  few  fowls  of  them,  but  they  had  none  to 
dispose  of.  They  gave  us,  however,  two  or  three  roots  of  taro,  and  a 
draught  of  excellent  spring  water.  Bidding  them  farewell,  we  pur- 
sued our  way  over  a  beautiful  country,  gradually  sloping  towards  the 
right,  and  meeting  the  ocean,  at  a  distance  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
miles,  and  rising  more  abruptly  on  the  left,  where  it  was  crowned 
with  the  woods,  which  extended  like  a  vast  belt  round  the  base  of  the 
greater  part  of  Mouna  Koa. 

A  CAVE  LODGING  AT  KEAPUANA. 

After  travelling  between  three  and  four  miles,  we  reached  Kea- 
puana,  a  large  cavern,  frequently  used  as  a  lodging-place  by  weary 
or  benighted  travellers.  The  sun  was  nearly  down,  and  the  guides 
proposed  to  halt  for  the  night  in  the  cave,  rather  than  proceed  any 
further,  and  sleep  in  the  open  air.  The  proposal  was  agreed  to,  and 
when  we  had  gather  a  quantity  of  fern  leaves  and  grass  for  our  bed, 
and  collected  some  fuel  for  the  evening  fire,  we  descended  about  four- 
teen feet  to  the  mouth  of  the  cavern,  which  was  probably  formed  in 
the  same  manner  as  those  we  had  explored  in  the  vicinity  of  Kairua. 
The  entrance,  which  was  eight  feet  wide  and  five  high,  was  formed 
by  an  arch  of  ancient  lava,  several  feet  in  thickness. 

The  interior  of  the  cavern  was  about  fifty  feet  square,  and  the  arch 
that  covered  it,  ten  feet  high.  There  was  an  aperture  at  the  northern 
end,  about  three  feet  in  diameter,  occasioned  by  the  falling  in  of  the 
lava,  which  admitted  a  current  of  keen  mountain  air  through  the 
whole  of  the  night. 

While  we  were  clearing  out  the  small  stones  between  some  of  the 
blocks  of  lava  that  lay  scattered  around,  a  large  fire  was  kindled  near 
the  entrance,  which,  throwing  its  glimmering  light  on  the  dark  vol- 
canic sides  of  the  cavern,  and  illuminating  one  side  of  the  huge  masses 
of  lava,  exhibited  to  our  view  the  strange  features  of  our  apartment, 
which  resembled,  in  no  small  degree,  scenes  described  in  tales  of 
romance. 

When  we  had  cleared  a  sufficient  space,  we  spread  our  beds  of  fern- 
leaves  and  grass  on  the  rough  floor  of  the  cavern,  and  then  mingled 
with  the  cheerful  circle  who  were  sitting  round  the  fire.  We  sung  a 
hymn  in  the  native  language,  and  afterwards  committed  ourselves  and 
fellow-travellers  to  the  kind  keeping  of  Him,  whose  wakeful  eye  and 
watchful  care  no  dark  cavern  can  exclude. 


169 

FIRST    VIEW    OF    KILAUEA'S    FIRES. 

While  the  natives  were  sitting  round  the  fire,  Mr.  Thurston  and  I 
ascended  to  the  upper  region,  and  walked  to  a  rising  ground  at  a 
small  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  cavern,  to  try  if  we  could  dis- 
cern the  light  of  the  volcano.  The  wind  blew  fresh  from  the  moun- 
tains; the  noise  of  the  rolling  surf,  to  which  we  had  been  accustomed 
on  the  shore,  was  not  heard;  and  the  stillness  of  the  night  was  only- 
disturbed  by  the  chirping  of  the  insects  in  the  grass.  The  sky  was 
clear,  except  in  the  eastern  horizon,  where  a  few  light  clouds  arose, 
and  slowly  floated  across  the  expanse  of  heaven. 

On  looking  towards  the  north-east,  we  saw  a  broad  column  of  light 
rising  to  a  considerable  elevation  in  the  air,  and  immediately  above  it 
some  bright  clouds,  or  thin  vapours,  beautifully  tinged  with  red  on 
the  under  side.  We  had  no  doubt  that  the  column  of  light  arose 
from  the  large  crater,  and  that  its  fires  illuminated  the  surrounding 
atmosphere.  The  fleecy  clouds  generally  passed  over  the  luminous 
column  in  a  south-east  direction.  As  they  approached  it,  the  side 
towards  the  place  where  we  stood  became  generally  bright;  after- 
wards the  under  edge  only  reflected  the  volcanic  fire;  and  in  a  little 
time  each  cloud  passed  entirely  away,  and  was  succeeded  by  another. 

We  remained  some  time  to  observe  the  beautiful  prenomenon  occa- 
sioned by  the  reflection  of  the  volcanic  fire,  and  the  more  magnificent 
spectacle  presented  by  the  multitude  and  brilliancy  of  the  heavenly 
bodies.     The  season  was  solemn  and  delightful. 

ON  THE  ROAD  TO  THE  VOLCANO. 

Refreshed  by  a  comfortable  night 's  sleep,  we  arose  before  day- 
light on  the  morning  of  the  first  of  August,  and  after  stirring  up 
the  embers  of  our  fire,  rendered,  with  grateful  hearts,  our  morning 
tribute  of  praise  to  our  almighty  Preserver. 

As  the  day  began  to  dawn,  we  tied  on  our  sandals,  ascended  from 
the  subterraneous  dormitory,  and  pursued  our  journey,  directing  our 
course  towards  the  column  of  smoke,  which  bore  E.  N.  E.  from  the 
cavern. 

The  path  for  several  miles  lay  through  a  most  fertile  tract  of  coun- 
try, covered  with  bushes,  or  tall  grass  and  fern,  frequently  from  three 
to  five  feet  high,  and  so  heavily  laden  with  dew,  that  before  we  had 
passed  it,  we  were  as  completely  wet  as  if  we  had  walked  through 
a  river. 

The  morning  air  was  cool,  the  singing  of  birds  enlivened  the  woods, 
and  we  travelled  along  in  Indian  file  nearly  four  miles  an  hour,  al- 
though most  of  the  natives  carried  heavy  burdens,  which  were  tied 
on  their  backs  with  small  bands  over  their  shoulders,  in  the  same 
manner  that  a  soldier  fastens  on  his  knapsack.     Having  also  ourselves 


170 

a  small  leather  bag  containing  a  bible,  inkstand,  note-book,  com- 
pass, &c.  suspended  from  one  shoulder,  a  canteen  of  water  from  the 
other,  and  sometimes  a  light  port-folio,  or  papers,  with  specimens  of 
plants  besides,  our  whole  party  appeared,  in  this  respect  at  least, 
somewhat  en  militaire. 

STOPPED    BY    A    CHASM. 

After  travelling  a  short  distance  over  the  open  country,  we  came 
to  a  small  wood,  into  which  we  had  not  penetrated  far,  before  all 
traces  of  a  path  entirely  disappeared.  We  kept  on  some  time,  but 
were  soon  brought  to  a  stand  by  a  deep  chasm,  over  which  we  saw  no 
means  of  passing.  Here  the  natives  ran  about  in  every  direction 
searching  for  marks  of  footsteps,  just  as  a  dog  runs  to  and  fro  when 
he  has  lost  the  track  of  his  master. 

After  searching  about  half  an  hour,  they  discovered  a  path,  which 
led  some  distance  to  the  southward,  in  order  to  avoid  the  deep  chasm 
in  the  lava. 

SUGAR    CANE    REFRESHMENT. 

Near  the  place  where  we  crossed  over,  there  was  an  extensive 
cavern.  The  natives  sat  down  on  the  top  of  the  arch  by  which  it  was 
formed,  and  began  eating  their  sugar-cane,  a  portable  kind  of  pro- 
vision usually  carried  on  their  journeys,  while  we  explored  the  cavern 
in  hopes  of  finding  fresh  water.  In  several  places  drops  of  water, 
beautifully  clear,  constantly  filtered  through  the  vaulted  arch,  and 
fell  into  calabashes  placed  underneath  to  receive  it.  Unfortunately 
for  us,  these  were  all  nearly  empty.  Probably  some  thirsty  traveller 
had  been  there  but  a  short  time  before. 

A   SANDY   DESERT. 

Leaving  the  wood,  we  entered  a  waste  of  dry  sand,  about  four  miles 
across.  The  travelling  over  it  was  extremely  fatiguing,  as  we  sunk  in 
to  our  ancles  at  every  step.  The  sand  was  of  a  dark  olive  colour,  fine 
and  sparkling,  parts  of  it  adhering  readily  to  the  magnet,  and  being 
raised  up  in  heaps  in  every  direction,  presented  a  surface  resembling, 
colour  excepted,  that  of  drifted  snow. 

It  was  undoubtedly  volcanic;  but  whether  thrown  out  of  any  of  the 
adjacent  craters  in  its  present  form,  or  made  up  of  small  particles  of 
decomposed  lava,  and  the  crystalline  olivin  we  had  observed  so  abun- 
dant in  the  lava  of  the  southern  shore,  and  drifted  by  the  constant 
trade-wind  from  the  vast  tract  of  lava  to  the  eastward,  we  could  not 
determine. 

When  we  had  nearly  passed  through  it,  we  sat  down  on  a  heap  of 
lava  to  rest  and  refresh  ourselves,  having  taken  nothing  since  the 
preceding    noon.      About    ten    o'clock,   Messrs.   Bishop    and    Goodrich 


171 

reached  the  place  where  we  were  sitting.  They  had  heard  by  some 
travellers,  that  two  or  three  days  would  elapse  before  Makoa  would 
overtake  them,  and  deeming  it  inexpedient  to  wait  so  long,  had  pro- 
cured a  guide,  and  early  this  morning  set  out  from  Kapapala  to  fol- 
low the  rest  of  the  party. 

VOLCANIC   FORMATIONS   DESCRIBED. 

Having  refreshed  ourselves,  we  resumed  our  journey,  taking  a  north- 
erly direction  towards  the  columns  of  smoke,  which  we  could  now  dis- 
tinctly perceive.  Our  way  lay  over  a  wide  waste  of  ancient  lava,  of  a 
black  colour,  compact  and  heavy,  with  a  shining  vitreous  surface, 
sometimes  entirely  covered  with  obsidian,  and  frequently  thrown  up, 
by  the  expansive  force  of  vapour  or  heated  air,  into  conical  mounds, 
from  six  to  twelve  feet  high,  which  were,  probably,  by  the  same  power 
rent  into  a  number  of  pieces,  from  the  apex  to  the  base.  The  hollows 
between  the  mounds  and  long  ridges  were  filled  with  volcanic  sand, 
and  fine  particles  of  olivin,  or  decomposed  lava. 

This  vast  tract  of  lava  resembled  in  appearance  an  inland  sea, 
bounded  by  distant  mountains.  Once  it  had  certainly  been  in  a  fluid 
state,  but  appeared  as  if  it  had  become  suddenly  petrified,  or  turned 
into  a  glassy  stone,  while  its  agitated  billows  were  rolling  to  and  fro. 

Not  only  were  the  large  swells  and  hollows  distinctly  marked,  but 
in  many  places  the  surface  of  these  billows  was  covered  by  a  smaller 
ripple,  like  that  observed  on  the  surface  of  the  sea  at  the  first  spring- 
ing up  of  a  breeze,  or  the  passing  currents  of  air  which  produce  what 
the  sailors  call  a  cat  's-paw.  The  billows  may  have  been  raised  by 
the  force  which  elevated  the  mounds  or  hills,  but  they  look  as  if  the 
whole  mass,  extending  several  miles,  had,  when  in  a  state  of  perfect 
fusion,  been  agitated  with  a  violent  undulating  or  heaving  motion. 

A  HARD  ROAD. 

The  sun  had  now  risen  in  his  strength,  and  his  bright  rays,  reflected 
from  the  sparkling  sand,  and  undulated  surface  of  the  vitreous  lava, 
dazzled  our  sight  and  caused  considerable  pain,  particularly  as  the 
trade-wind  blew  fresh  in  our  faces,  and  continually  drove  into  our 
eyes  particles  of  sand. 

This  part  of  our  journey  was  unusually  laborious,  not  only  from 
the  heat  of  the  sun  and  the  reflection  from  the  lava,  but  also  from  the 
unevenness  of  its  surface,  which  obliged  us  constantly  to  tread  on  an 
inclined  plane,  in  some  places  as  smooth  and  almost  as  slippery  as 
glass,  where  the  greatest  caution  was  necessary  to  avoid  a  fall.  Fre- 
quently we  chose  to  walk  along  on  the  ridge  of  a  billow  of  lava, 
though  considerably  circuitous,  rather  than  pass  up  and  down  its 
polished  sides.    Taking  the  trough,  or  hollow  between  the  waves,  was 


172 

found  safer,  but  much  more  fatiguing,  as  we  sunk  every  step  ancle- 
deep  into  the  sand. 

The  natives  ran  along  the  ridges,  stepping  like  goats  from  one 
ridge  to  another.  They,  however,  occasionally  descended  into  the 
hollows,  and  made  several  marks  with  their  feet  in  the  sand  at  short 
distances,  for  the  direction  of  two  or  three  native  boys  with  our  pro- 
visions, and  some  of  their  companions,  who  had  fallen  behind  early  in 
the  morning,  not  being  able  to  keep  up  with  the  foremost  party. 

CRATERS   AND   ACTIVE   VOLCANIC   CRACKS. 

Between  eleven  and  twelve  we  passed  a  number  of  conical  hills  on 
our  right,  which  the  natives  informed  us  were  craters.  A  quantity  of 
sand  was  collected  round  their  base,  but  whether  thrown  out  by  them, 
or  drifted  thither  by  the  wind,  they  could  not  inform  us. 

In  their  vicinity  we  also  passed  several  deep  chasms,  from  which, 
in  a  number  of  places,  small  columns  of  vapour  arose,  at  frequent 
and  irregular  intervals.  They  appeared  to  proceed  from  Kirauea,  the 
great  volcano,  and  extended  towards  the  sea  in  a  south-east  direction. 
Probably  they  are  connected  with  Ponahohoa,  and  may  mark  the 
course  of  a  vast  subterraneous  channel  leading  from  the  volcano  to 
the  shore.  The  surface  of  the  lava  on  both  sides  was  heated,  and  the 
vapour  had  a  strong  sulphureous  smell. 

DEPOSITS  OP  PUMACE   LAVA. 

We  continued  our  way  beneath  the  scorching  rays  of  a  vertical  sun 
till  about  noon,  when  we  reached  a  solitary  tree  growing  in  a  bed  of 
sand,  spreading  its  roots  among  the  crevices  of  the  rocks,  and  casting 
its  grateful  shade  on  the  barren  lava.  Here  we  threw  ourselves  down 
on  the  sand  and  fragments  of  lava,  stretched  out  our  weary  limbs,  and 
drank  the  little  water  left  in  our  canteens. 

In  every  direction  we  observed  a  number  of  pieces  of  spumous  lava, 
of  an  olive  colour,  extremely  cellular,  and  as  light  as  sponge.  They 
appeared  to  have  been  drifted  by  the  wind  into  the  hollows  which  they 
occupied. 

The  high  bluff  rocks  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  volcano  were  dis- 
tinctly seen;  the  smoke  and  vapours  driven  past  us,  and  the  scent  of 
the  fumes  of  sulphur,  which,  as  we  approached  from  the  leeward,  we 
had  perceived  ever  since  the  wind  sprung  up  becoming  very  strong, 
indicated  our  proximity  to  Kirauea. 

EATING  OHELO  BERRIES. 

Impatient  to  view  it  we  arose,  after  resting  atjout  half  an  hour,  and 
pursued  our  journey.  In  the  way  we  saw  a  number  of  low  bushes 
bearing  beautiful  red  and  yellow  berries  in  clusters,  each  berry  being 


173 

about  the  size  and  shape  of  a  large  currant.  The  bushes  on  which 
they  grew  were  generally  low,  seldom  reaching  two  feet  in  height; 
the  branches  small  and  clear,  leaves  alternate,  obtuse  with  a  point, 
and  serrated;  the  flower  was  monopetalous,  and,  on  being  examined, 
determined  the  plant  to  belong  to  the  class  decandria,  and  order 
monogynia. 

The  native  name  of  the  plant  is  ohelo.  The  berries  looked  tempting 
to  persons  experiencing  both  hunger  and  thirst,  and  we  eagerly 
plucked  and  ate  all  that  came  in  our  way.  They  are  juicy,  but  rather 
insipid  to  the  taste. 

NATIVE  FEARS  OF  PELE. 

As  soon  as  the  natives  perceived  us  eating  them,  they  called  out 
aloud,  and  begged  us  to  desist,  saying  we  were  now  within  the  pre- 
cincts of  Pele  's  dominions,  to  whom  they  belonged,  and  by  whom 
they  were  rahuiia,  (prohibited,)  until  some  had  been  offered  to  her, 
and  permission  to  eat  them  asked.  We  told  them  we  were  sorry  they 
should  feel  uneasy  on  this  account, — that  we  acknowledged  Jehovah 
as  the  only  divine  proprietor  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  and  felt 
thankful  to  him  for  them,  especially  in  our  present  circumstances. 

Some  of  them  then  said,  "We  are  afraid.  We  shall  be  overtaken 
by  some  calamity  before  we  leave  this  place." 

We  advised  them  to  dismiss  their  fears,  and  eat  with  us,  as  we  knew 
they  were  thirsty  and  faint.  They  shook  their  heads,  and  perceiving 
us  determined  to  disregard  their  entreaties,  walked  along  in  silence. 

KILAUEA   DESCRIBED. 

We  travelled  on,  regretting  that  the  natives  should  indulge  notions 
so  superstitious,  but  clearing  every  ohelo  bush  that  grew  near  our 
path,  till  about  two  p.  m.  when  the  Crater  of  Kirauea  suddenly  burst 
upon  our  view. 

We  expected  to  have  seen  a  mountain  with  a  broad  base  and  rough 
indented  sides,  composed  of  loose  slags  or  hardened  streams  of  lava, 
and  whose  summit  would  have  presented  a  rugged  wall  of  scoria, 
forming  the  rim  of  a  mighty  caldron.  But  instead  of  this,  we  found 
ourselves  on  the  edge  of  a  steep  precipice,  with  a  vast  plain  before  us, 
fifteen  or  sixteen  miles  in  circumference,  and  sunk  from  200  to  400 
feet  below  its  original  level. 

The  surface  of  this  plain  was  uneven,  and  strewed  over  with  large 
stones  and  volcanic  rocks,  and  in  the  centre  of  it  was  the  great  crater, 
at  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  precipice  on  which  we 
were  standing. 

Our  guides  led  us  round  towards  the  north  end  of  the  ridgo,  in  order 
to  find  a  place  by  which  we  might  descend  to  the  plain  below. 


O  ^ 


o   2 


176 


NATIVE  TRIBUTE  TO  PELK. 


As  we  passed  along,  we  observed  the  natives,  who  had  hitherto 
refused  to  touch  any  of  the  ohelo  berries,  now  gather  several  bunches, 
and,  after  offering  a  part  to  Pele,  eat  them  very  freely.  They  did 
not  use  much  ceremony  in  their  acknowledgment;  but  when  they  had 
plucked  a  branch,  containing  several  clusters  of  berries,  they  turned 
their  faces  towards  the  place  whence  the  greatest  quantity  of  smoke 
and  vapour  issued,  and,  breaking  the  branch  they  held  in  their  hand 
in  two,  they  threw  one  part  down  the  precipice,  saying  at  the  same 
time, 

"E  Pele,  eia  ka  ohelo  'au;  e  taumaha  aku  wau  ia  oe,  e  ai  hoi  au 
tetahi."  "Pele,  here  are  your  ohelos:  I  offer  some  to  you,  some  I 
also  eat." 

Several  of  them  told  us,  as  they  turned  round  from  the  crater,  that 
after  such  acknowledgments  they  might  eat  the  fruit  with  security. 

We  answered  we  were  sorry  to  see  them  offering  to  an  imaginary 
deity  the  gifts  of  the  true  God;  but  hoped  they  would  soon  know 
better,  and  acknowledge  Jehovah  alone  in  all  the  benefits  they  re- 
ceived. 

DESCENDING   INTO  KILAUEA. 

We  walked  on  to  the  north  end  of  the  ridge,  where,  the  precipice 
being  less  steep,  a  descent  to  the  plain  below  seemed  practicable.  It 
required,  however,  the  greatest  caution,  as  the  stones  and  fragments 
of  rock  frequently  gave  way  under  our  feet,  and  rolled  down  from 
above;  but,  with  all  our  care,  we  did  not  reach  the  bottom  without 
several  falls  and  slight  bruises. 

The  steep  which  we  had  descended  was  formed  of  volcanic  matter, 
apparently  a  light  red  and  gray  kind  of  lava,  vesicular,  and  lying  in 
horizontal  strata,  varying  in  thickness  from  one  to  forty  feet.  In  a 
small  number  of  places  the  different  strata  of  lava  were  also  rent  in 
perpendicular  or  oblique  directions,  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  either 
by  earthquakes,  or  other  violent  convulsions  of  the  ground  connected 
with  the  action  of  the  adjacent  volcano. 

ON   THE   EDGE    OF   THE    PIT. 

After  walking  some  distance  over  the  sunken  plain,  which  in 
several  places  sounded  hollow  under  our  feet,  we  at  length  came  to 
the  edge  of  the  great  crater,  where  a  spectacle,  sublime  and  even 
appalling,  presented  itself  before  us — 

"We  stopped,  and  trembled." 

Astonishment  and  awe  for  some  moments  rendered  us  mute,  and, 
like  statues,  we  stood  fixed  to  the  spot,  with  our  eyes  riveted  on  the 
abyss  below. 


177 

Immediately  before  us  yawned  an  immense  gulf,  in  the  form  of  a 
crescent,  about  two  miles  in  length,  from  north-east  to  south-west, 
nearly  a  mile  in  width,  and  apparently  800  feet  deep. 

A  FLOOD  OF  BURNING  LAVA. 

The  bottom  was  covered  with  lava,  and  the  south-west  and  northern 
parts  of  it  were  one  vast  flood  of  burning  matter,  in  a  state  of  terrific 
ebullition,  rolling  to  and  fro  its  "fiery  surge"  and  flaming  billows. 

Fifty-one  conical  islands,  of  varied  form  and  size,  containing  so 
many  craters,  rose  either  round  the  edge  or  from  the  surface  of  the 
burning  lake. 

Twenty-two  constantly  emitted  columns  of  gray  smoke,  or  pyramids 
of  brilliant  flame;  and  several  of  these  at  the  same  time  vomited  from 
their  ignited  mouths  streams  of  lava,  which  rolled  in  blazing  torrents 
down  their  black  indented  sides  into  the  boiling  mass  below. 

The  existence  of  these  conical  craters  led  us  to  conclude,  that  the 
boiling  caldron  of  lava  before  us  did  not  form  the  focus  of  the  vol- 
cano; that  this  mass  of  melted  lava  was  comparatively  shallow;  and 
that  the  basin  in  which  it  was  contained  was  separated,  by  a  stratum 
of  solid  matter,  from  the  great  volcanic  abyss,  which  constantly  poured 
out  its  melted  contents  through  these  numerous  craters  into  this  upper 
reservoir. 

VAST    COLUMNS    OF   VAPOR. 

We  were  further  inclined  to  this  opinion,  from  the  vast  columns  of 
vapour  continually  ascending  from  the  chasms  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
sulphur  banks  and  pools  of  water,  for  they  must  have  been  produced 
by  other  fire  than  that  which  caused  the  ebullition  in  the  lava  at  the 
bottom  of  the  great  crater;  and  also  by  noticing  a  number  of  small 
craters,  in  vigorous  action,  situated  high  up  the  sides  of  the  great 
gulf,  and  apparently  quite  detached  from  it. 

The  streams  of  lava  which  they  emitted  rolled  down  into  the  lake, 
and  mingled  with  the  melted  mass  there,  which,  though  thrown  up  by 
different  apertures,  had  perhaps  been  originally  fused  in  one  vast 
furnace. 

800    FEET   DOWN   TO   THE    LAKE. 

The  sides  of  the  gulf  before  us,  although  composed  of  different 
strata  of  ancient  lava,  were  perpendicular  for  about  400  feet,  and 
rose  from  a  wide  horizontal  ledge  of  solid  black  lava  of  irregular 
breadth,  but  extending  completely  round. 

Beneath  this  ledge  the  sides  sloped  gradually  towards  the  burning 

lake,  which  was,  as  nearly  as  we  could  judge,  .'500  or  400  feet  lower. 

as   evident   that   the  large  cratei   had  been   recently  filled   with 

liquid   lava  up   to   this   black  ledge,   and   had,   by  some   subterranean 

12 


178 

canal,  emptied  itself  into  the  sea,  or  upon  the  low  land  on  the  shore; 
and  in  all  probability  this  evacuation  had  caused  the  inundation  of 
the  Kapapala  coast,  which  took  place,  as  we  afterwards  learned,  about 
three  weeks  prior  to  our  visit. 

ROARING  OF  VAST  FURNACE. 

The  gray,  and  in  some  places  apparently  calcined,  sides  of  the  great 
crater  before  us;  the  fissures  which  intersected  the  surface  of  the 
plain  on  which  we  were  standing;  the  long  banks  of  sulphur  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  abyss;  the  vigorous  action  of  the  numerous  small 
craters  on  its  borders;  the  dense  columns  of  vapour  and  smoke  that 
rose  at  the  north  and  south  end  of  the  plain;  together  with  the  ridge 
of  steep  rocks  by  which  it  was  surrounded,  rising  probably  in  some 
places  300  or  400  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  presented  an  immense 
volcanic  panorama,  the  effect  of  which  was  greatly  augmented  by  the 
constant  roaring  of  the  vast  furnaces  below. 

After  the  first  feelings  of  astonishment  had  subsided,  we  remained 
a  considerable  time  contemplating  a  scene,  which  it  is  impossible  to 
describe,  and  which  filled  us  with  wonder  and  admiration  at  the  almost 
overwhelming  manifestation  it  affords  of  the  power  of  that  dread 
Being  who  created  the  world,  and  who  has  declared  that  by  fire  he 
will  one  day  destroy  it.  We  then  walked  along  the  west  side  of  the 
crater,  and  in  half  an  hour  reached  the  north  end. 

NATIVE  FEARS  OF  PELE  AGAIN. 

While  walking  over  the  plain,  which  was  covered  with  a  thin  layer 
of  what  appeared  like  indurated  sand,  but  which  we  afterwards  found 
to  be  decomposed  lava,  the  natives  requested  us  not  to  kaha,  a  heru 
ka  one,  strike,  scratch,  or  dig  the  sand,  assuring  us  it  would  displease 
Pele,  and  be  followed  by  an  irruption  of  lava,  or  other  expression  of 
vengeance  from  this  goddess  of  the  volcano,  of  whose  power  and  dis- 
pleasure they  had  manifested  the  greatest  apprehensions  ever  since 
our  approach  to  Kirauea.  It  appears  singular  that  similar  ideas 
respecting  the  consequences  of  disturbing  the  earth  in  the  vicinity  of 
volcanoes,  should  prevail  here,  as  among  the  natives  of  the  New 
Hebrides. 

SIMILAR    SUPERSTITIONS    AT    NEW   HEBRIDES. 

Forster,  in  his  account  of  a  visit  to  a  place  somewhat  resembling 
this,  in  the  island  of  Tanna,  speaking  of  their  making  a  hole,  and 
burying  their  thermometer,  says,  "The  natives,  who  observed  that  we 
stirred  in  the  solfatarra,  (as  he  called  the  places  where  the  smoke 
and  vapour  issued,)  desired  us  to  leave  it,  telling  us  it  would  take 
fire,  and  resemble  the  volcano,  which  they  called  Assoor.    They  seemed 


179 

to  be  extremely  apprehensive  of  some  mischance,  and  were  very  un- 
easy as  often  as  we  made  the  least  attempt  to  disturb  the  sulphurous 
earth." — Forst.  Voy.  vol.  ii.  page  308. 

FRESH    WATER    ENCOUNTERED. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  crater  we  left  the  few  provisions  and  little 
baggage  that  we  had,  and  went  in  search  of  water,  which  we  had  been 
informed  was  to  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  number  of 
columns  of  vapour,  which  we  saw  rising  in  a  northerly  direction. 
About  half  a  mile  distant,  we  found  two  or  three  small  pools  of  per- 
fectly sweet,  fresh  water;  a  luxury  which,  notwithstanding  the  re- 
ports of  the  natives,  we  did  not  expect  to  meet  with  in  these  regions 
of  fire.  It  proved  a  most  grateful  refreshment  to  us  after  travelling 
not  less  than  twenty  miles  over  a  barren  thirsty  desert. 

These  pools  appeared  great  natural  curiosities.  The  surface  of  the 
ground  in  the  vicinity  was  perceptibly  warm,  and  rent  by  several  deep 
irregular  chasms,  from  which  steam  and  thick  vapours  continually 
arose.  In  some  places  these  chasms  were  two  feet  wide,  and  from 
them  a  volume  of  steam  ascended,  which  was  immediately  condensed 
by  the  cool  mountain  air,  and  driven,  like  drizzling  rain,  into  hollows 
in  the  compact  lava  on  the  leeward  side  of  the  chasms. 

The  pools,  which  were  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  chasms,  were  sur- 
rounded and  covered  by  flags,  rushes,  and  tall  grass.  Nourished  by  the 
moisture  of  the  vapours,  these  plants  flourished  luxuriantly,  and,  in 
their  turn,  sheltered  the  pools  from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  prevented 
evaporation. 

We  expected  to  find  the  water  warm,  but  in  this  we  were  also  agree- 
ably disappointed. 

EXPLORING  NORTH  OP  THE  CRATER. 

When  we  had  quenched  our  thirst  with  water  thus  distilled  by 
nature,  we  directed  the  natives  to  build  a  hut  in  which  we  might  pass 
the  night,  in  such  a  situation  as  to  command  a  view  of  the  burning 
lava;  and  while  they  were  thus  employed,  we  prepared  to  examine 
the  many  interesting  objects  around  us.  Mr.  Bishop  returned,  with 
a  canteen  of  water,  to  meet  Mr.  Harwood,  who  had  not  yet  come  up. 

Mr.  Thurston  visited  the  eastern  side  of  the  great  crater,  and  I 
went  with  Mr.  Goodrich  to  examine  some  extensive  beds  of  sulphur  at 
the  north-east  end. 

After  walking  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  over  a  tract  of  decom- 
posed lava,  covered  with  ohelo  bushes  and  ferns,  wo  came  to  a  bank 
about  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  long,  and  in  some  places  upwards  of 
thirty  feet  high,  formed  of  sulphur,  with  a  small  proportion  of  red 
clay  or  ochre.    The  ground  was  very  hot;  its  surface  rent  by  fissures; 


180 

and   we   were   sometimes  completely  enveloped   in  the   thick   vapours 
that  continually  ascended  from  these  cracks. 

THE   SULPHUR  BANKS. 

A  number  of  apertures  were  visible  along  the  whole  extent  of  the 
bank  of  sulphur;  smoke  and  vapours  arose  from  these  fissures  also; 
and  the  heat  of  the  sulphur  around  them  was  more  intense  than  in 
any  other  part.  Their  edges  were  fringed  with  fine  crystals,  in  various 
combinations,  like  what  are  called  flowers  of  sulphur. 

Wo  climbed  about  half  way  up  the  bank,  and  endeavoured  to  break 
off  some  parts  of  the  crust,  but  soon  found  it  too  hot  to  be  handled. 
However,  by  means  of  our  walking  sticks,  we  detached  some  curious 
specimens.  Those  procured  near  the  surface  were  crystallized  in 
beautiful  acicular  prisms,  of  a  light  yellow  colour;  while  those  found 
three  or  four  inches  deep  in  the  bank,  were  of  an  orange  yellow, 
generally  in  single  or  double  tetrahedral  pyramids,  and  full  an  inch 
in  length. 

A  singular  hissing  and  cracking  noise  was  heard  among  the  crystals, 
whenever  the  outside  crust  of  the  sulphur  was  broken  and  the  atmos- 
pheric air  admitted.  The  same  noise  was  produced  among  the  frag- 
ments broken  off,  until  they  were  quite  cold.  The  adjacent  stones  and 
pieces  of  clay  were  frequently  incrusted,  either  with  sulphate  of 
ammonia,  or  volcanic  sal  ammoniac.  Considerable  quantities  were 
also  found  in  the  crevices  of  some  of  the  neighbouring  rocks,  which 
were  much  more  pungent  than  that  exposed  to  the  air. 

Along  the  bottom  of  the  sulphur  bank  we  found  a  number  of 
pieces  of  tufa,  or  clay-stone,  which  appeared  to  have  been  fused,  ex- 
tremely light  and  cellular.  It  seemed  as  if  sulphur,  or  some  other 
inflammable  substance,  had  formerly  occupied  the  cells  in  these  stones. 

A  thick  fog  now  came  over,  which,  being  followed  by  a  shower 
of  rain,  obliged  us  to  leave  this  interesting  laboratory  of  nature,  and 
return  to  our  companions. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  crater,  we  saw  banks  of  sulphur  less 
pure,  but  apparently  more  extensive,  than  those  we  had  visited;  but 
their  distance  from  us,  and  the  unfavourable  state  of  the  weather, 
prevented  our  examining  them. 

FLOCKS  OF  WILD  GEESE. 

On  our  way  to  the  sulphur  banks,  we  saw  two  flocks  of  wild  geese, 
which  came  down  from  the  mountains,  and  settled  among  the  ohelo 
bushes,  near  the  pools  of  water.  They  were  smaller  than  the  common 
goose,  had  brown  necks,  and  their  wings  were  tipped  with  the  same 
colour.  The  natives  informed  us  there  were  vast  flocks  in  the  interior, 
although  they  were  never  seen  near  the  sea. 


181 

Just  as  the  sun  was  setting  we  reached  the  place  where  we  had  left 
our  baggage,  and  found  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Harwood  sitting  near  the 
spot,  where  the  natives,  with  a  few  green  branches  of  trees,  some 
fern  leaves,  and  rushes,  had  erected  a  hut. 

MORE   SUPERSTITIOUS  FEARS  OF   PELE. 

"We  were  none  of  us  pleased  with  the  site  which  they  had  chosen. 
It  was  at  the  north-east  end  of  the  crater,  on  a  pile  of  rocks  over- 
hanging the  abyss  below,  and  actually  within  four  feet  of  the 
precipice.  When  we  expressed  our  disapprobation,  they  said  it  was 
the  only  place  where  we  might  expect  to  pass  the  night  undisturbed 
by  Pele,  and  secure  from  earthquake  and  other  calamity,  being  the 
place  in  which  alone  Pele  allowed  travellers  to  build  a  hut. 

We  told  them  it  was  unnecessarily  near,  and,  being  also  unsafe,  we 
wished  to  remove. 

They  answered,  that  as  it  was  within  the  limits  prescribed  by  Pele 
for  safe  lodging,  they  should  be  unwilling  to  sleep  any  where  else, 
and  had  not  time  to  build  another  hut  for  us. 

We  then  directed  them  to  collect  a  quantity  of  fire-wood,  as  we 
expected  the  night  would  be  cold,  although  the  thermometer  then 
stood  at  69°.  We  were  the  more  anxious  to  have  the  fuel  collected 
before  the  shades  of  night  should  close  upon  us,  as  travelling  in  some 
places  was  extremely  dangerous. 

DANGEROUS  GROUND  UNDERFOOT. 

The  ground  sounded  hollow  in  every  direction,  frequently  cracked, 
and,  in  two  instances,  actually  gave  way  while  we  were  passing  over 
it.  Mr.  Bishop  was  approaching  the  hut,  when  the  lava  suddenly 
broke  under  him.  He  instantly  threw  himself  forward,  and  fell  flat 
on  his  face  over  a  part  that  was  more  solid. 

A  boy,  who  followed  me  with  a  basket  to  the  sulphur  banks,  and 
walked  about  a  yard  behind  Mr.  Goodrich  and  myself,  also  fell  in. 
There  was  no  crack  in  the  surface  of  the  lava  over  which  he  was 
walking,  neither  did  it  bend  under  his  weight,  but  broke  suddenly, 
when  he  sunk  in  up  to  his  middle.  His  legs  and  thighs  were  con- 
siderably bruised,  but  providentially  he  escaped  without  any  other 
injury. 

The  lava  in  both  places  was  about  two  inches  in  thickness,  and 
broke  short,  leaving  the  aperture  regular  and  defined,  without  even 
cracking  the  adjoining  parts.  On  looking  into  the  holes,  we  could  see 
no  bottom,  but  on  both  sides,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  aperture, 
the  lava  was  solid,  and  they  appeared  to  have  fallen  into  a  narrow 
chasm  covered  over  by  a  thin  crust  of  lava,  already  in  a  state  of  de- 
composition. 


182 

MR.   THURSTON'S  ADVENTURE. 

When  night  came  on,  we  kindled  a  good  fire,  and  prepared  our  frugal 
supper.  Mr.  Thurston,  however,  had  not  yet  returned,  and,  as  the 
darkness  of  the  night  increased,  we  began  to  feel  anxious  for  his 
safety.  The  wind  came  down  from  the~  mountains  in  violent  gusts, 
dark  clouds  lowered  over  us,  and  a  thick  fog  enveloped  every  object; 
even  the  fires  of  the  volcano  were  but  indistinctly  seen. 

The  darkness  of  the  night  advanced,  but  no  tidings  reached  us  of 
Mr.  Thurston.  About  seven  o'clock  we  sent  out  the  natives  with 
torches  and  firebrands,  to  search  for  him.  They  went  as  far  as  they 
durst,  hallooing  along  the  border  of  the  crater,  till  their  lights  were 
extinguished,  when  they  returned,  without  having  seen  or  heard  any 
thing  of  him.  We  now  increased  our  fire,  hoping  it  might  serve  as  a 
beacon  to  direct  him  to  our  hut.  Eight  o'clock  came,  and  he  did  not 
appear. 

We  began  seriously  to  fear  that  he  had  fallen  into  the  crater  itself, 
or  some  of  the  deep  and  rugged  chasms  by  which  it  was  surrounded. 
A  native,  who  accompanied  Mr.  Goodrich  on  a  subsequent  visit  to  the 
volcano,  fell  into  one  of  these  chasms;  he  was  severely  bruised  by  the 
fall,  and  could  only  be  extricated  from  his  perilous  situation  by  a  rope 
lowered  down  from  the  surface.  In  this  state  of  painful  suspense 
we  remained  till  nearly  half -past  eight,  when  we  were  happily  relieved 
by  his  sudden  appearance.  He  had  descended,  and  walked  along  the 
dark  ledge  of  lava  on  the  east  side  of  the  crater,  till  a  chasm  obliged 
him  to  ascend.  Having  with  difficulty  reached  the  top,  he  travelled 
along  the  southern  and  western  sides,  till  the  light  of  our  fire  directed 
him  to  our  encampment.  The  extent  of  the  crater,  the  unevenness  of 
the  path,  the  numerous  fissures  and  rugged  surface  of  the  lava,  and 
the  darkness  of  the  night,  had  prevented  his  earlier  arrival. 

A    STRENUOUS    CAMP. 

We  now  partook  with  cheerfulness  of  our  evening  repast,  and  after- 
wards, amidst  the  whistling  of  the  winds  around,  and  the  roaring  of 
the  furnace  beneath,  rendered  our  evening  sacrifice  of  praise,  and  com- 
mitted ourselves  to  the  secure  protection  of  our  God.  We  then  spread 
our  mats  on  the  ground,  but  as  we  were  all  wet  through  with  the  rain, 
against  which  our  hut  was  but  an  indifferent  shelter,  we  preferred  to 
sit  or  stand  round  the  fire,  rather  than  lie  down  on  the  ground. 

THE    VOLCANO   AT   NIGHT. 

Between  nine  and  ten,  the  dark  clouds  and  heavy  fog,  that  since 
the  setting  of  the  sun  had  hung  over  the  volcano,  gradually  cleared 
away,  and  the  fires  of  Kirauea,  darting  their  fierce  light  athwart  the 


183 

midnight  gloom,  unfolded  a  sight  terrible  and  sublime  beyond  all  we 
had  yet  seen. 

The  agitated  mass  of  liquid  lava,  like  a  flood  of  melted  metal,  raged 
with  tumultuous  whirl.  The  lively  flame  that  danced  over  its  un- 
dulating surface,  tinged  with  sulphureous  blue,  or  glowing  with 
mineral  red,  cast  a  broad  glare  of  dazzling  light  on  the  indented  sides 
of  the  insulated  craters,  whose  roaring  mouths,  amidst  rising  flames, 
and  eddying  streams  of  fire,  shot  up,  at  frequent  intervals,  with  very 
loud  detonations,  spherical  masses  of  fusing  lava,  or  bright  ignited 
stones. 

The  dark  bold  outline  of  the  perpendicular  and  jutting  rocks  around, 
formed  a  striking  contrast  with  the  luminous  lake  below,  whose  vivid 
rays,  thrown  on  the  rugged  promontories,  and  reflected  by  the  over- 
hanging clouds,  combined  to  complete  the  awful  grandeur  of  the 
imposing  scene. 

A    MAGNIFICENT    PHENOMENON. 

We  sat  gazing  at  the  magnificent  phenomena  for  several  hours, 
when  we  laid  ourselves  down  on  our  mats,  in  order  to  observe  more 
leisurely  their  varying  aspect;  for,  although  we  had  travelled  up- 
wards of  twenty  miles  since  the  morning,  and  were  both  weary  and 
cold,  we  felt  but  little  disposition  to  sleep.  This  disinclination  was 
probably  increased  by  our  proximity  to  the  yawning  gulf,  and  our 
conviction  that  the  detachment  of  a  fragment  from  beneath  the  over- 
hanging pile  on  which  we  were  reclining,  or  the  slightest  concussion 
of  the  earth,  which  every  thing  around  indicated  to  be  no  unfrequent 
occurrence,  would  perhaps  precipitate  us,  amidst  the  horrid  crash  of 
falling  rocks,  into  the  burning  lake  immediately  before  us. 

NATIVE    VIEWS    CONCERNING    KILAUEA. 

The  natives,  who  probably  viewed  the  scene  with  thoughts  and 
feelings  somewhat  different  from  ours,  seemed,  however,  equally  in- 
terested. They  sat  most  of  the  night  talking  of  the  achievements  of 
Pele,  and  regarding  with  a  superstitious  fear,  at  which  we  were  not 
surprised,  the  brilliant  exhibition.  They  considered  it  the  primeval 
abode  of  their  volcanic  deities.  The  conical  craters,  they  said,  were 
their  houses,  where  they  frequently  amused  themselves  by  playing  at 
Konnne  (the  game  resembling  drafts,  described  on  page  158);  the 
roaring  of  the  furnaces  and  the  crackling  of  the  flames  were  the  kani 
of  their  hura,  (music  of  their  dance,)  and  the  red  flaming  surge  was 
the  surf  wherein  they  played,  sportively  swimming  on  the  rolling 
wave.  Swimming  in  the  sea,  when  the  weather  is  tompestuous  and 
the  surf  high,  is  a  favourite  amusement  throughout  the  Sandwich  and 
other  islands  in  the  Pacific. 


184 

NATIVE   TRADITIONS  CONCERNING   VOLCANO. 

As  eight  of  the  natives  with  us  belonged  to  the  adjoining  district, 
we  asked  them  to  tell  us  what  they  knew  of  the  history  of  this  vol- 
cano, and  what  their  opinions  were  respecting  it.  From  their  account, 
and  that  of  others  with  whom  we  conversed,  we  learned,  that  it  had 
been  burning  from  time  immemorial,  or,  to  use  their  own  words,  "mai 
ka  po  mai,"  from  chaos  till  now,  (the  Hawaiian  traditions,  like  those 
of  the  ancients,  refer  to  night,  or  a  chaotic  state,  the  origin  of  the 
world,  and  almost  all  things  therein,  the  greater  part  of  their  gods  not 
excepted;  the  present  state  they  call  the  Ao  marama,  Day,  or  state 
of  light;  they  speak  of  creation  as  a  transition  from  darkness  to 
light;  and  when  they  wish  to  express  the  existence  of  any  thing  from 
the  beginning,  they  say  it  has  been  so  mai  ka  po  mai,  from  the  night, 
or  state  of  darkness  or  confusion,  till  now;)  and  had  overflowed  some 
part  of  the  country  during  the  reign  of  every  king  that  had  gov- 
erned Hawaii:  that  in  earlier  ages  it  used  to  boil  up,  overflow  its 
banks,  and  inundate  the  adjacent  country;  but  that,  for  many  kings' 
reigns  past,  it  had  kept  below  the  level  of  the  surrounding  plain, 
continually  extending  its  surface  and  increasing  its  depth,  and  occa- 
sionally throwing  up,  with  violent  explosion,  huge  rocks  or  red-hot 
stones.  These  eruptions,  they  said,  were  always  accompanied  by 
dreadful  earthquakes,  loud  claps  of  thunder,  with  vivid  and  quick- 
succeeding  lightning.  No  great  explosion,  they  added,  had  taken  place 
since  the  days  of  Keoua;  but  many  places  near  the  sea  had  since 
been  overflowed,  on  which  occasions  they  supposed  Pele  went  by  a 
road  under  ground  from  her  house  in  the  crater  to  the  shore. 

These  few  facts  were  gathered  from  their  accounts  of  its  origin  and 
operation;  but  they  were  so  incorporated  with  their  traditions  of  its 
supernatural  inhabitants,  and  fabulous  stories  of  their  romantic  ad- 
ventures, that  we  found  no  small  difficulty  in  distinguishing  fiction 
from  fact. 

MYTHOLOGY    OF    THE    VOLCANO. 

Among  other  things,  we  were  told,  that  though,  according  to  the 
traditions  preserved  in  their  songs,  Kirauea  had  been  burning  ever 
since  the  island  emerged  from  night,  it  was  not  inhabited  till  after 
the  Tai-a-kahina'rii,  sea  of  Kahina'rii,  or  deluge  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  Shortly  after  that  event,  they  say,  the  present  volcanic 
family  came  from  Tahiti,  a  foreign  country,  to  Hawaii. 

The  names  of  the  principal  individuals  were:  Kamoho-arii,  the 
king  Moho;  moho  sometimes  means  a  vapour,  hence  the  name  might 
be  the  king  of  steam  or  vapour — Ta-poha-i-tahi-ora,  the  explosion  in 
the  place  of  life — Te-ua-a-te-po,  the  rain  of  night — Tane-hetiri,  hus- 
band of  thunder,  or  thundering  tane  (Tane  is  the  name  of  one  of  their 


185 

gods,  as  well  as  the  name  of  the  principal  god  formerly  worshipped 
by  the  Society  islanders;  in  both  languages  the  word  also  means  a 
husband) — and  Te-o-ahi-tama-taua,  fire-thrusting  child  of  war;  these 
were  all  brothers,  and  two  of  them,  Vulcan-like,  were  deformed,  hav- 
ing hump  backs — Pele,  principal  goddess — Makore-wawahi-waa,  fiery- 
eyed  canoe-breaker — Hiata-wawahi-lani,  heaven-rending  cloud-holder 
— Hiata-noholani,  heaven-dwelling  cloud-holder — Hiata-taarava-mata, 
quick  glancing  eyed  cloud-holder,  or  the  cloud-holder  whose  eyes  turn 
quickly  and  look  frequently  over  her  shoulders — Hiata-hoi-te-pori-a- 
Pele,  the  cloud-holder  embracing  or  kissing  the  bosom  of  Pele — Hiata- 
ta-bu-enaena,  the  red-hot  mountain  holding  or  lifting  clouds — Hiata- 
tareiia,  the  wreath  or  garland-encircled  cloud-holder — and  Hiata-opio, 
young  cloud-holder. 

These  were  all  sisters,  and,  with  many  others  in  their  train,  on 
landing  at  Hawaii,  are  said  to  have  taken  up  their  abode  in  Kirauea. 
Something  of  their  characters  may  be  inferred  from  the  few  names  we 
have  given.  "Whenever  the  natives  speak  of  them,  it  is  as  dreadful 
beings. 

VOLCANO  THE  ABODE  OF  THE  GODS. 

This  volcano  is  represented  as  having  been  their  principal  residence 
ever  since  their  arrival,  though  they  are  thought  to  have  many  other 
dwellings  in  different  parts  of  the  island,  and  not  a  few  on  the  tops 
of  the  snow-covered  mountains.  To  these  some  of  them  frequently 
remove.  Sometimes  their  arrival  in  a  district  was  foretold  by  the 
priests  of  the  heiaus  there,  and  always  announced  by  the  convulsive 
trembling  of  the  earth,  the  illuminating  fire  in  their  houses,  (craters,) 
the  flashes  of  lightning,  and  the  roar  of  awful  thunder. 

OFFERINGS   TO   THE   VOLCANO   GODS. 

They  never  journeyed  on  errands  of  mercy;  to  receive  offerings,  or 
execute  vengeance,  where  the  only  objects  for  which  they  left  their 
palace.  "Nui  wale,"  said  the  people  with  whom  we  were  talking, 
"ka  kanaka  i  make  ia  rakou,"  (alluding  to  those  destroyed  by  the 
inundations,)  Great  indeed  is  the  number  of  men  slain  by  them;  ua 
rau,  ua  rau,  ua  rau,  ka  puaa  i  tioraia  na  rakou,  (this  is  a  figurative 
expression  signifying  a  great  number,  as  we  are  accustomed  to  hear 
of  thousands,  and  thousands,  and  thousands,)  four  hundreds,  four  hun- 
dreds, four  hundreds  of  hogs  have  been  thrown  to  them.  (Vast  num- 
bers of  hogs,  some  alive,  others  cooked,  were  thrown  into  the  craters 
during  the  time  they  were  in  action,  or  when  they  threatened  an  erup- 
tion; and  also,  during  an  inundation,  many  were  thrown  into  the 
rolling  torrent  of  lava,  to  appease  the  gods,  and  stay  its  progress.) 


186 

\  KXGEANCE  OP  THE  VOLCANO   GODS. 

The  whole  island  was  considered  as  bound  to  pay  them  tribute,  or 
support  their  heiaus,  and  kahu,  (devotees;)  and  whenever  the  chiefs 
or  people  failed  to  send  the  proper  offerings,  or  incurred  their  dis- 
pleasure by  insulting  them  or  their  priests,  or  breaking  the  tabu 
(sacred  restrictions)  of  their  domains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  craters, 
they  filled  Kirauea  with  lava,  and  spouted  it  out,  or,  taking  a  sub- 
terranean passage,  marched  to  some  one  of  their  houses  (craters)  in 
the  neighbourhood  where  the  offending  parties  dwelt,  and  from  thence 
came  down  upon  the  delinquents  with  all  their  dreadful  scourges. 

If  a  sufficient  number  of  fish  were  not  taken  to  them  by  the  in- 
habitants of  the  sea-shore,  they  would  go  down,  and  with  fire  kill  the 
fish,  fill  up  with  pahoehoe  (lava)  the  shallow  places,  and  destroy  all 
the  fishing  grounds. 

COMBAT   BETWEEN  KAMAPUAA   AND   PELE. 

We  were  told  that  several  attempts  had  been  made  to  drive  them 
off  the  islands,  and  that  once  they  were  nearly  overpowered  by  Tama- 
puaa,  the  Centaur  of  Hawaii,  a  gigantic  animal,  half  hog  and  half 
man.  He  travelled  from  Oahu  to  countries  beyond  the  heavens,  viz. 
beyond  the  visible  horizon,  the  boundary  where  they  supposed  the 
heavens  to  be,  in  form  of  a  hollow  cone,  joined  to  the  sea. 

He  also  visited  Kirauea,  and  made  proposals  to  become  the  guest 
and  suitor  of  Pele,  the  elder  sister.  When  she  saw  him  standing  on 
the  edge  of  the  crater,  she  rejected  his  proposals  with  contempt,  call- 
ing him  a  hog,  the  son  of  a  hog.  On  her  ascending  from  the  crater 
to  drive  him  away,  a  fierce  combat  ensued. 

Pele  was  forced  to  her  volcano,  and  threatened  with  destruction 
from  the  waters  of  the  sea,  which  Tamapuaa  poured  into  the  crater 
till  it  was  almost  full,  and  the  fires  were  nearly  extinct.  Pele  and 
her  companions  drank  up  the  waters,  rose  again  from  the  craters,  and 
finally  succeeded  in  driving  Tamapuaa  into  the  sea,  whither  she  fol- 
lowed him  with  thunder,  lightning,  and  showers  of  large  stones. 

DESTRUCTION   OP   KEOUA'S   ARMY. 

They  also  related  the  account  of  the  destruction  of  part  of  Keoua 'a 
camp  by  a  violent  eruption  of  the  volcano,  which,  from  their  descrip- 
tion, must  have  been  sudden  and  awful. 

Pele,  they  said,  was  propitious  to  Tamehameha,  and  availed  herself 
of  the  opportunity  afforded  by  the  contiguous  encampment  of  Keoua 
to  diminish  his  forces  and  aid  the  cause  of  his  rival. 

"We  asked  why  Keoua  was  unpopular  with  Pele.  They  said,  "We 
do  not  exactly  know.  Some  say,  he  had  not  sent  sufficient  offerings 
to   the   heiaus;    others,   that   he   had    no   right   to   make   war   against 


187 

Tamehameha,  as  he  had  before  concluded  a  treaty  of  peace  with  him; 
and  others,  that  he  had  broken  the  tabu  of  the  place  by  eating  the 
ohelos,  marking  and  disturbing  the  sand,  or  pulling  up  a  sacred  kind 
of  grass  growing  in  the   neighbourhood." 

THE    EXPLOSIVE    ERUPTION    OF    1790. 

Whatever  was  the  cause,  Pele,  they  said,  was  "huhu  roa,"  ex- 
ceedingly angry,  and,  soon  after  sun-set,  repeatedly  shook  the  earth 
with  the  most  violent  heaving  motion,  sent  up  a  column  of  dense  black 
smoke,  followed  by  the  most  brilliant  flames. 

A  violent  percussion  was  afterwards  felt,  streams  of  bright  red  lava 
were  spouted  up,  and  immense  rocks  in  a  state  of  ignition  thrown 
to  a  great  height  in  the  air.  A  volley  of  smaller  stones,  thrown  with 
much  greater  velocity  and  force,  instantly  followed  the  larger  ones, 
and  struck  some  of  them,  when  the  latter  frequently  burst  with  a  re- 
port like  thunder,  accompanied  by  the  most  vivid  flashes  of  lightning. 

Many  of  Keoua's  people  were  killed  by  the  falling  fragments  of 
rocks,  and  many  were  actually  buried  beneath  the  overwhelming  mass 
of  ashes  and  lava.  Some  of  the  natives  say,  the  warriors  of  two  dis- 
tricts, about  eighty  men,  perished  on  this  occasion. 

Not  intimidated  by  this  event,  which  many  considered  as  a  pre- 
monition of  his  fate,  Keoua  continued  his  march,  and  the  volcano 
continued  its  action,  confining,  however,  its  operation  within  the 
boundaries  of  Kirauea. 

We  had  heard  the  account  several  times  before,  with  some  little 
variation  as  to  the  numbers  killed,  and  the  appearance  of  Pele  to 
Keoua,  in  the  column  of  smoke  as  it  rose  from  the  crater,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  this  last  circumstance,  believe  it  to  be  true. 

NATIVE    VISIONS    OF   THE   VOLCANO    GODS. 

Frequently  during  the  night  the  natives  thought  they  saw  some  one 
or  other  of  the  deities,  but  immediately  afterwards  they  doubted. 
At  these  times,  if  we  asked  them  where  they  saw  Pele,  they  would 
sometimes  point  to  the  red  lava,  at  others  to  the  variegated  flame;  and 
on  our  saying  we  could  not  perceive  any  distinct  form,  they  generally 
answered  by  assuring  us,  that  during  the  night  some  one  or  other  of 
them  would  certainly  be  seen. 

We  jocosely  requested  them  to  inform  us  as  soon  as  any  appeared; 
and  even  to  awake  us,  should  we  happen  to  be  asleep.  At  the  same 
time  we  told  them,  that  when  we  considered  their  ignorance  of  the 
true  God,  and  of  the  causes  by  which  the  action  of  volcanoes  was 
sustained,  we  were  not  surprised  at  their  supposing  them  to  be  the 
habitations  of  their  deities,  and  their  operations  those  of  supernatural 
beings. 


188 

As  far  as  their  language  and  mental  capability  admitted,  we  en- 
deavoured to  explain  some  of  the  causes  of  volcanic  fire;  and  illus- 
trated them  by  the  force  of  gunpowder,  with  the  effects  of  which  the 
natives  are  familiar;  assuring  them  that  the  expansive  force  of  steam 
is  much  greater  than  that  of  gunpowder- 

Our  principal  solicitude,  however,  was  to  lead  their  minds  to  God, 
who  created  the  world,  and  whose  almighty  power  controls  the  ele- 
ments of  nature  in  all  their  diversified  operations;  but  of  whom, 
though  they  beheld  the  wondrous  works  of  his  hand,  they  were 
lamentably  ignorant. 

DIMENSIONS   OP   THE    CRATER. 

After  two  or  three  hours'  sleep,  we  arose  before  it  was  day,  and, 
gathering  round  our  fire,  sang  our  morning  hymn  of  praise,  in  which 
we  were  joined  by  the  natives  who  were  with  us.  The  sun  had  now 
risen,  and,  as  we  had  no  provisions  left,  we  felt  it  necessary  to  pre- 
pare for  our  departure.  Mr.  Goodrich  walked  along  the  north  side  of 
the  crater,  in  order  to  enable  us  to  form  as  accurate  an  opinion  as 
possible  of  its  actual  dimensions;  and,  from  the  observations  of  Mr. 
Goodrich  and  Mr.  Thurston,  as  well  as  those  the  rest  of  us  made  when 
we  walked  along  the  north  and  east  sides,  we  think  the  crater  is 
not  less  than  five,  or  five-and-a-half,  miles  in  circumference. 

The  following  extract  of  a  letter  from  Mr.  Chamberlain  is  copied 
from  a  recent  American  publication: 

DESCRIPTION    OF    KILAUEA   BY    GOODRICH. 

"Mr.  Goodrich  and  myself  visited  the  volcano  again,  and,  with  a 
line,  measured  the  upper  edge  of  the  crater,  and  found  it  to  be  seven 
miles  and  a  half  in  circumference.  We  then  descended,  and  measured 
the  side  of  the  ledge,  and  satisfied  ourselves,  that,  at  the  depth  of 
500  or  600  feet,  the  circumference  is  at  least  five  miles  and  a  half. 
"We  did  not  get  the  exact  depth  of  it,  but  judge  it  not  less  than  one 
thousand  feet.    We  had  good  opportunities  for  forming  a  judgment." 

In  a  letter  to  Professor  Silliman  of  New  Haven,  Mr.  Goodrich  cor- 
roborates the  above,  and  states  also,  that  he  walked  across  the  bot- 
tom, where  the  lava  was  hard,  the  surface  of  which,  though  appar- 
ently smooth  as  seen  from  the  top,  was  raised  in  hills  or  sunk  in 
valleys;  that  dense  sulphureous  fumes  and  gases,  very  suffocating, 
some  of  them  resembling  muriatic  gas,  ascended  from  almost  all  parts 
of  the  bottom,  making  in  their  escape  a  "tremendous  roaring,  like  the 
discharge  of  steam  from  the  boiler  of  a  steam  engine;"  at  one  place 
the  florid  lava  was  boiling  like  a  fountain,  and  spouting  up  lava  forty 
or  fifty  feet  into  the  air. — Philosophical  Magazine  for  September, 
1826. 


189 
DEPTH  OF  THE   CRATER. 

We  regret  that  we  had  not  means  for  ascertaining  more  accurately 
its  depth. 

We  lowered  down  a  line  one  hundred  feet  from  the  edge  of  the 
plain  on  which  our  hut  was  erected,  but  it  did  not  appear  to  reach 
near  half-way  to  the  black  ledge  of  lava;  and  judging  the  proportion 
below  to  be  equal  to  that  above,  it  could  not  be  less  than  700  or  800 
feet  to  the  liquid  lava. 

"We  also  threw  down  some  large  stones,  which  after  several  seconds 
struck  on  the  sides,  and  then  bounded  down  to  the  bottom,  where 
they  were  lost  in  the  lava.  "When  they  reached  the  bottom  they  ap- 
peared like  pebbles,  and  we  were  obliged  to  watch  their  course  very 
steadily  to  perceive  them  at  all. 

A    SECOND    VISIT    TO    KILAUEA. 

In  company  with  Dr.  Blatchely,  Messrs.  Chamberlain  and  Ely, 
American  missionaries,  and  a  gentleman  resident  in  Oahu,  I  have 
since  visited  Kirauea,  when  we  again  endeavoured  to  measure  its 
circumference. 

Mr.  Chamberlain  walked  round  the  northern  end  from  east  to  west, 
as  near  the  edge  as  it  was  prudent  to  go,  and,  numbering  his  paces, 
made  that  part  of  it  3  1/16  miles;  from  which,  we  think,  the  above 
estimate  does  not  exceed  the  actual  extent  of  the  crater. 

We  also  lowered  down  a  line  230  feet  long,  but  it  did  not  reach 
the  horizontal  ledge  of  lava.  The  fissures  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sul- 
phur banks,  and  pools  of  water,  were  more  numerous,  and  the  smoke 
and  vapour  that  ascended  from  them  greater  in  quantity,  than  during 
our  first  visit. 

CHANGES   AT   THE   VOLCANO. 

The  volcano  was  much  more  quiescent;  but  some  violent  convulsions 
had  taken  place  in  the  interim,  for  several  masses  of  rock  had  fallen 
from  the  high  precipices  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  fires  in  the  south 
and  west  parts  burned  but  feebly;  and  though  there  was  but  little  firo 
in  the  north  and  east  sections  of  the  volcano,  it  was  evident  that  the 
whole  of  the  lava  in  this  part  had  been  in  a  state  of  agitation  since 
we  had  seen  it. 

Some  of  the  small  craters,  on  the  southern  sides  of  the  great  abyss, 
were  extinguished;  but  several  new  craters  had  been  formed  on  the 
opposite  side,  and  bore  marks  of  having  been  in  vigorous  action  but  a 
very  short  period  before. 

Soon  after  leaving  our  encampment  this  morning,  we  come  to  the 
pools  of  water,  where  we  filled  our  canteens. 


190 
THE   JOURNEY  FROM   KILAUEA   TO   HILO. 

Here  also  our  party  separated;  Messrs.  Goodrich  and  Harwood  pro- 
ceeding across  the  interior  through  the  villages  of  Ora  to  Waiakea, 
in  the  division  of  Hiro,  while  the  rest  of  us  passed  along  the  east  side 
of  the  crater,  towards  the  sea-shore.     , 

The  path  was  in  many  places  dangerous,  lying  along  narrow  ridges, 
with  fearful  precipices  on  each  side,  or  across  deep  chasms  and  hol- 
lows that  required  the  utmost  care  to  avoid  falling  into  them,  and 
where  a  fall  would  have  been  fatal,  as  several  of  the  chasms  seemed 
narrowest  at  the  surface. 

In  one  place,  we  passed  along  for  a  considerable  distance  under  a 
high  precipice,  where,  though  the  country  was  perfectly  level  at  the 
top,  or  sloped  gradually  towards  the  sea,  the  impending  rocks  tow- 
ered some  hundred  feet  above  us  on  our  left,  and  the  appalling  flood 
of  lava  rolled  almost  immediately  beneath  us  on  our  right. 

LAVA    SPECIMENS    AND    PELE'S    HAIR. 

On  this  side  we  descended  to  some  small  craters  on  the  declivity, 
and  also  to  the  black  ledge;  where  we  collected  a  number  of  beautiful 
specimens  of  highly  scoriacious  lava,  the  base  approaching  to  volcanic 
glass.  It  was  generally  of  a  black  or  red  colour,  light,  cellular,  brit- 
tle, and  shining. 

We  also  found  a  quantity  of  volcanic  glass  drawn  out  into  filaments 
as  fine  as  human  hair,  and  called  by  the  natives  rauoho  o  Pele,  (hair 
of  Pele).  It  was  of  a  dark  olive  colour,  semi-transparent,  and  brittle, 
though  some  of  the  filaments  were  several  inches  long.  Probably 
it  had  been  produced  by  the  bursting  of  igneous  masses  of  lava, 
thrown  out  from  the  craters,  or  separated  in  fine-spun  threads  from 
the  boiling  fluid,  when  in  a  state  of  perfect  fusion,  and,  borne  by 
the  smoke  or  vapour  above  the  edges  of  the  crater,  had  been  wafted 
by  the  winds  over  the  adjacent  plain;  for  we  also  found  quantities  of 
it  at  least  seven  miles  distant  from  the  large  crater. 

LAVA   CONES   AND   TUNNELS. 

"We  entered  several  small  craters,  that  had  been  in  vigorous  action 
but  a  very  short  period  before,  marks  of  most  recent  fusion  presenting 
themselves  on  every  side.  Their  size  and  height  were  various,  and 
many,  which  from  the  top  had  appeared  insignificant  as  mole-hills, 
we  now  found  twelve  or  twenty  feet  high.  The  outside  was  composed 
of  bright  shining  scoriacious  lava,  heaped  up  in  piles  of  most  singular 
form.  The  lava  on  the  inside  was  of  a  light  or  dark  red  colour,  with  a 
glazed  surface,  and  in  several  places,  where  the  heat  had  evidently 
been  intense,  we  saw  a  deposit  of  small  and  beautifully  white  crystals. 


191 

We  also  entered  several  covered  channels,  or  tunnels,  down  which 
the  lava  had  flowed  into  the  large  abyss.  They  had  been  formed 
by  the  cooling  of  the  lava  on  the  sides  and  surface  of  the  stream,  while 
it  had  continued  to  flow  on  underneath.  As  the  size  of  the  current 
diminished,  it  had  left  a  hard  crust  of  lava  of  unequal  thickness  over 
the  top,  supported  by  walls  of  the  same  material  on  each  side.  Their 
interior  was  beautiful  beyond  description. 

DESCRIPTION    OF   LAVA    CAVES. 

In  many  places  they  were  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  and  as  many 
wide  at  the  bottom.  The  roofs  formed  a  regular  arch,  hung  with  red 
and  brown  stalactitic  lava,  in  every  imaginable  shape,  while  the  floor 
appeared  like  one  continued  glassy  stream.  The  winding  of  its  cur- 
rent and  the  ripple  of  its  surface  were  so  entire,  that  it  seemed  as 
if,  while  in  rapid  motion,  the  stream  of  lava  had  suddenly  stopped, 
and  become  indurated,  even  before  the  undulations  of  the  surface  had 
subsided. 

"We  traced  one  of  these  volcanic  chambers  to  the  edge  of  the  preci- 
pice that  bounds  the  great  crater,  and  looked  over  the  fearful  steep, 
down  which  the  fiery  cascade  had  rushed.  In  the  place  where  it  had 
fallen,  the  lava  had  formed  a  spacious  basin,  which,  hardening  as  it 
cooled,  had  retained  all  those  forms  which  a  torrent  of  lava,  falling 
several  hundred  feet,  might  be  expected  to  produce  on  the  viscid 
mass  below. 

VARIETIES  OP  EJECTED  ROCK. 

In  the  neighbourhood  we  saw  several  large  masses  of  basaltic  rock, 
of  a  dark  gray  colour,  weighing  probably  from  one  to  four  or  five 
tons,  which  although  they  did  not  bear  any  marks  of  recent  fire, 
must  have  been  ejected  from  the  great  crater  during  some  violent 
eruption,  as  the  surrounding  rocks  in  every  direction  presented  a  very 
different  appearance;  or  they  might  have  been  thrown  out  in  a  liquid 
state,  combined  with  other  matter  that  had  formed  a  rock  of  a  less 
durable  kind,  which,  decomposing  more  rapidly,  had  been  washed 
away,  and  left  them  in  detached  masses  scattered  on  the  plain. 

They  were  hard,  and,  when  fractured,  appeared  a  lava  of  basalt, 
containing  very  fine  grains  of  compact  felspar  and  augite;  some  of 
them  contained  small  particles  of  olivin. 

We  also  saw  a  number  of  other  rocks  in  a  state  of  decomposition, 
which  proved  to  be  a  species  of  lava,  containing  globules  of  zeolite. 
The  decomposition  of  these  rocks  appeared  to  have  formed  the  present 
surface  of  much  of  the  west,  north,  and  east  parts  of  the  plain 
immediately  surrounding  the  crater. 


192 

When  we  had  broken  off  specimens  of  these,  and  of  some  red 
earthy-looking  stones,  which  seemed  to  have  the  same  base  as  the 
other,  but  to  have  lost  their  compact  texture,  and  to  have  experienced 
a  change  of  colour,  from  a  further  degree  of  decomposition,  we  passed 
along  to  the  east  side,  where  I  took  a  sketch  of  the  south-west  end 
of  the  crater. 

KILAUEA-IKI   DESCRIBED. 

As  we  travelled  on  from  this  spot,  we  unexpectedly  came  to  another 
deep  crater,  nearly  half  as  large  as  the  former.  The  native  name  of 
it  is  Kirauea-iti,  (little  Kirauea).  It  is  separated  from  the  large 
crater  by  an  isthmus  nearly  a  hundred  yards  wide.  Its  sides,  which 
were  much  less  perpendicular  than  those  of  the  great  crater,  were 
covered  with  trees  and  shrubs,  but  the  bottom  was  filled  with  black 
lava,  either  fluid  or  scarcely  cold,  and  probably  supplied  by  the  great 
crater,  as  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  grass  on  its  sides,  shewed  it  had 
remained  many  years  in  a  state  of  quiescence.  Though  this  was  the 
only  small  one  we  saw,  our  companions  informed  us  there  were  many 
in  the  neighbourhood. 

A   RUINED    HEIAU   AT   KILAUEA. 

They  also  pointed  out  to  us  the  ruins  of  Oararauo,  an  old  heiau, 
which  crowned  the  summit  of  a  lofty  precipice  on  our  left.  It  was 
formerly  a  temple  of  Pele,  of  which  Kamakaakeakua,  (the  eye  of 
god,)  a  distinguished  soothsayer,  who  died  in  the  reign  of  Tameha- 
meha,  was  many  years  priest. 

Large  offerings  were  frequently  made  of  hogs,  dogs,  fish,  and  fruits, 
but  we  could  not  learn  that  human  victims  were  ever  immolated  on 
its  altars.  These  offerings  were  always  cooked  in  the  steaming  chasms, 
or  the  adjoining  ground.  Had  they  been  dressed  any  where  else,  or 
prepared  with  other  fire,  they  would  have  been  considered  polluted, 
and  have  been  expected  to  draw  down  curses  on  those  who  presented 
them. 

CONDITIONS    IN    THE    VICINITY    OP    KILAUEA. 

The  ground  throughout  the  whole  plain  is  so  hot,  that  those  who 
come  to  the  mountains  to  procure  wood  for  building,  or  to  cut  down 
trees  and  hollow  them  out  for  canoes,  always  cook  their  own  food, 
whether  animal  or  vegetable,  by  simply  wrapping  it  in  fern  leaves, 
and  burying  it  in  the  earth. 

The  east  side  of  the  plain  was  ornamented  with  some  beautiful 
species  of  Alices;  also  with  several  plants  much  resembling  some  of  the 
varieties  of  cycas,  and  thickly  covered  with  ohelo  bushes,  the  berries 
of  which  we  ate  freely  as  we  walked  along,  till,  coming  to  a  steep 
precipice,  we  ascended  about  300  feet,  and  reached  the  high  land  on 


193 

the  side  towards  the  sea,  which  commanded  a  fine  view  of  Mouna 
Eoa,  opposite  to  which  we  had  been  travelling  ever  since  we  left 
Punaruu. 

The  mountain  appeared  of  an  oval  shape,  stretching  along  in  a 
southwest  direction,  nearly  parallel  with  the  south-east  shore,  from 
which  its  base  was  generally  distant  twenty  or  thirty  miles. 

A  ridge  of  high  land  appeared  to  extend  from  the  eastern  point 
to  the  south-west  shore.  Between  it  and  the  foot  of  Mouna  Eoa  was 
a  valley,  as  near  as  we  could  judge,  from  seven  to  twelve  miles  wide. 

MAUNA   LOA   SNOW   CAPPED. 

The  summit  of  Mouna  Eoa  was  never  free  from  snow,  the  higher 
parts  of  the  mountain's  side  were  totally  destitute  of  every  kind  of 
vegetation;  and  by  the  help  of  a  telescope  we  could  discover  numerous 
extinguished  craters,  with  brown  and  black  streams  of  indurated  lava 
over  the  whole  extent  of  its  surface. 

The  foot  of  the  mountain  was  enriched  on  this  side  by  trees  and 
shrubs,  which  extended  from  its  base  six  or  seven  miles  towards  the 
summit. 

FIRST    WHITES    TO    VISIT    KILAUEA. 

The  volcano  of  Kirauea,  the  largest  of  which  we  have  any  account, 
and  which  was,  until  visited  by  us,  unknown  to  the  civilized  parts  of 
the  world,  is  situated  in  the  district  of  Kapapala,  nearly  on  the 
boundary  line  between  the  divisions  of  Kau  and  Puna,  twenty  miles 
from  the  sea-shore. 

We  could  form  no  correct  estimate  of  its  elevation  above  the  level 
of  the  sea;  the  only  means  we  had  of  judging  being  the  difference  of 
temperature  in  the  air,  as  shewn  by  our  thermometer,  which,  on  the 
shore,  was  usually  at  sunrise  71°,  but  which,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  volcano,  was,  at  the  same  hour,  no  higher  than  46°. 

From  the  isthmus  between  Kirauea-nui,  or  Great  Kirauea,  and  Lit- 
tle Kirauea,  the  highest  peak  of  Mouna- Kea  bore  by  compass  N.  N.  \V. 
and  the  centre  of  Mouna-Eoa  W.  S.  W. 

The  uneven  summits  of  the  steep  rocks,  that,  like  a  wall,  many 
miles  in  extent,  surrounded  the  crater  and  all  its  appendages,  shewed 
the  original  level  of  the  country,  or  perhaps  marked  the  base,  and 
formed  as  it  were  the  natural  buttresses  of  some  lofty  mountain, 
raised  in  the  first  instance  by  the  accumulation  of  volcanic  matter, 
whose  bowels  had  been  consumed  by  volcanic  fire,  and  whose  sides  had 
afterwards  fallen  into  the  vast  furnace,  where,  reduced  a  second  time 
to  a  liquefied  state,  they  had  been  again  vomited  out  on  the  adjacent 
plain. 

13 


194 
SPECULATIONS    CONCERNING   THE    VOLCANO. 

But  the  magnificent  fires  of  Kirauea,  which  we  had  viewed  with  such 
admiration,  appeared  to  dwindle  into  insignificance,  when  we  thought 
of  the  probable  subterranean  fires  immediately  beneath  us. 

The  whole  island  of  Hawaii,  covering  a  space  of  four  thousand 
square  miles,  from  the  summits  of  its  lofty  mountains,  perhaps  15,000 
or  16,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  down  to  the  beach,  is,  accord- 
ing to  every  observation  we  could  make,  one  complete  mass  of  lava, 
or  other  volcanic  matter,  in  different  stages  of  decomposition. 

Perforated  with  innumerable  apertures  in  the  shape  of  craters,  the 
island  forms  a  hollow  cone  over  one  vast  furnace,  situated  in  the 
heart  of  a  stupendous  submarine  mountain,  rising  from  the  bottom 
of  the  sea;  or  possibly  the  fires  may  rage  with  augmented  force  be- 
neath the  bed  of  the  ocean,  rearing  through  the  superincumbent 
weight  of  water  the  base  of  Hawaii,  and,  at  the  same  time,  forming 
a  pyramidal  funnel  from  the  furnace  to  the  atmosphere. 

CAPT.   KING   CONCERNING  KEA  AND  LOA. 

In  Cook's  Voyages,  Captain  King,  speaking  of  Mouna-Kaah,  (Kea,) 
remarks  that  it  "may  be  clearly  seen  at  fourteen  leagues'  distance." 

Describing  Mouna-Roa,  and  estimating  it  according  to  the  tropical 
line  of  snow,  he  observes,  ' '  This  mountain  must  be  at  least  16,020 
feet  high,  which  exceeds  the  height  of  the  Pico  de  Teyde,  or  Peak  of 
Teneriffe,  by  724  feet,  according  to  Dr.  Heberden's  computation,  or 
3680  according  to  that  of  Chevalier  de  Borda.  The  peaks  of  Mouna 
Kaah  appeared  to  be  about  half  a  mile  high;  and  as  they  are  entirely 
covered  with  snow,  the  altitude  of  their  summits  cannot  be  less  than 
18,400  feet.  But  it  is  probable  that  both  these  mountains  may  be 
considerably  higher;  for  in  insular  situations,  the  effects  of  the  warm 
sea  air  must  necessarily  remove  the  line  of  snow,  in  equal  latitudes, 
to  a  greater  height,  than  where  the  atmosphere  is  chilled  on  all  sides 
by  an  immense  tract  of  perpetual  snow." 

LEAVING   THE  VOLCANO. 

Though  we  left  our  encampment  at  daybreak,  it  was  eleven  o'clock 
in  the  forenoon  before  we  took  our  final  leave  of  Kirauea. 

The  path  by  which  we  descended  towards  the  sea  was  about  south- 
east-by-east. On  the  high  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  the  crater,  we 
found  the  ground  covered  with  strawberry  plants,  on  some  of  which 
were  a  few  berries,  but  the  season  for  them  appeared  to  be  gone  by. 
The  plants  and  vines  were  small,  as  was  also  the  fruit,  which  in  its 
colour  and  shape  resembled  the  hautboy  strawberry,  though  in  taste  it 
was  much  more  insipid. 


195 

Strawberries,  as  well  as  raspberries,  are  indigenous  plants,  and  are 
found  in  great  abundance  over  most  of  the  high  lands  of  Hawaii; 
though  we  do  not  know  of  their  existence  in  any  other  islands  of  the 
group. 

The  ground  over  which  we  walked  was  composed  of  ancient  lava, 
of  a  light  brown  colour,  broken  into  small  pieces,  resembling  coarse 
dry  gravel,  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches,  below  which  it  was 
one  solid  mass  of  lava.  The  surface  was  covered  with  ohelo  bushes, 
and  a  few  straggling  ferns  and  low  shrubs,  which  made  travelling 
much  more  agreeable  than  when  we  approached  the  volcano. 

KEANAKAKOI  CRATER. 

Within  a  few  miles  of  Kirauea,  we  passed  three  or  four  high  and 
extinct  craters.  One  of  them,  Keanakakoi,  the  natives  told  us,  sent 
forth,  in  the  days  of  Riroa,  king  of  Hawaii  about  fourteen  genera- 
tions back,  most  of  the  lava  over  which  we  were  travelling.  The 
sides  of  these  craters  were  generally  covered  with  verdure,  while  the 
brown  irregular-shaped  rocks  on  their  indented  summits  frowned  like 
the  battlements  of  an  ancient  castle  in  ruins. 

We  occasionally  passed  through  rather  extensive  shrubberies  of 
bushes  and  small  trees  growing  in  the  decomposed  lava  and  sand,  and 
striking  their  roots  among  the  cracks  which  were  filled  up  with  the 
same  material. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  APPROACHES  TO  PUNA. 

As  we  approached  the  sea,  the  soil  became  more  generally  spread 
over  the  surface,  and  vegetation  more  luxuriant. 

About  two  p.  m.  we  sat  down  to  rest.  The  natives  ran  to  a  spot 
in  the  neighbourhood,  which  had  formerly  been  a  plantation,  and 
brought  a  number  of  pieces  of  sugar-cane,  with  which  we  quenched 
cur  thirst,  and  then  walked  on  through  several  plantations  of  the 
sweet  potato,  belonging  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast,  until  about 
three  o  'clock,  when  we  reached  the  edge  of  the  high  ground,  which, 
at  a  remote  period,  probably  formed  the  south-east  coast. 

We  stopped  at  a  solitary  cottage,  where  we  procured  a  copious 
draught  of  fresh  water,  to  us  a  most  grateful  beverage,  as  we  had 
travelled  ever  since  the  morning  without  any  refreshment,  except  a 
few  berries  and  a  piece  of  sugar-cane. 

We  descended  300  or  400  feet,  by  a  narrow  winding  path,  covered 
with  overhanging  trees,  and  bordered  by  shrubs  and  grass.  We  then 
walked  over  a  tract  of  lava,  broken  and  decomposed,  and  about  four 
or  five  miles  wide,  at  the  end  of  which  another  steep  appeared. 

These  steep  precipices  form  concentric  ridges  of  volcanic  rock 
round  the  greater  part  of  this  side  of  the  island.     Down  this  we  de- 


196 

scended,  by  following  the  course  of  a  rugged  current  of  ancient  lava, 
for  about  600  feet  perpendicular  depth,  when  we  arrived  at  the  plain 
below,  which  was  one  extended  sheet  of  lava,  without  shrub  or 
bush,  stretching  to  the  north  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
and  from  four  to  six  miles  across,  from,  the  foot  of  the  mountain  to 
the  sea. 

POOR  WATER  AT  KEALAKOMO. 

The  natives  gave  us  the  fabulous  story  of  the  combat  between 
Pele  and  Tamapuaa,  as  the  origin  of  this  flood  of  lava. 

This  vast  tract  of  lava  was  black,  shining,  and  cellular,  though  not 
very  brittle,  and  was  more  homogeneous  than  that  which  covered  the 
southern  shores  of  the  island. 

We  crossed  it  in  about  two  hours,  and  arrived  at  Kearakomo,  the 
second  village  in  the  division  of  Puna.  TTe  stopped  at  the  first 
house  we  came  to,  and  begged  some  water.  The  natives  brought  us 
a  calabash-full,  of  which  we  drank  most  hearty  draughts,  though  it 
was  little  better  than  the  water  of  the  sea,  from  which  it  had  per- 
colated through  the  vesicles  of  the  lava  into  the  hollows  from  nine 
to  twelve  feet  distant  from  the  ocean.  It  barely  quenched  our  thirst 
while  we  were  swallowing  it,  but  it  was  the  best  we  could  procure, 
and  we  could  hardly  refrain  from  drinking  at  every  hollow  to  which 
we  came. 

ACCOMMODATIONS   BAD— NATIVES   DRUNK. 

After  walking  about  a  mile  along  the  beach,  we  came  to  a  house, 
which  our  guide  pointed  out  as  our  lodgings.  It  was  a  miserable  hut, 
and  we  asked  if  we  could  not  find  better  accommodations,  as  we  in- 
tended to  spend  the  Sabbath  in  the  village?  Mauae  told  us  it  was 
the  only  one  in  the  place  that  was  not  crowded  with  people,  and  he 
thought  the  most  comfortable  one  we  could  procure. 

The  village  is  populous,  and  the  natives  soon  thronged  around  us. 
To  our  great  regret,  two-thirds  of  them  appeared  to  be  in  a  state  of 
intoxication,  a  circumstance  wTe  frequently  had  occasion  to  lament,  in 
the  villages  through  which  we  passed.  Their  inebriation  was  gen- 
erally the  effect  of  an  intoxicating  drink  made  of  fermented  sugar- 
cane juice,  sweet  potatoes,  or  ti  root. 

MAKING  LIQUOR  FROM  THE   TI  PLANT. 

The  ti  plant  is  common  in  all  the  South  Sea  islands,  and  is  a  variety 
of  dracaena,  resembling  the  dracaena  terminalis,  except  in  the  colour 
of  its  leaves,  which  are  of  a  lively  shining  green.  It  is  a  slow-grow- 
ing plant,  with  a  large  woody  fusiform  root,  which,  when  first  dug 
out  of  the  ground,  is  hard  and  fibrous,  almost  tasteless,  and  of  a 
white  or  light  yellow  colour. 


197 

The  natives  bake  it  in  large  ovens  underground,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  they  dress  the  arum  and  other  edible  roots.  After  baking,  it 
appears  like  a  different  substance  altogether,  being  of  a  yellowish 
brown  colour,  soft  though  fibrous,  and  saturated  with  a  highly 
saccharine  juice.  It  is  sweet  and  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  much  of 
it  is  eaten  in  this  state,  but  the  greater  part  is  employed  in  making 
an  intoxicating  liquor  much  used  by  the  natives. 

They  bruise  the  baked  roots  with  a  stone,  and  steep  them  with 
water  in  a  barrel  or  the  bottom  of  an  old  canoe,  till  the  mass  is  in 
a  state  of  fermentation.  The  liquor  is  then  drawn  off,  and  some- 
times distilled,  when  it  produces  a  strong  spirit;  but  the  greater  part 
of  it  is  drank  in  its  fermented  state  without  any  further  perparation. 

The  root  is  certainly  capable  of  being  used  for  many  valuable  pur- 
poses. A  good  beer  may  be  made  from  it;  and  in  the  Society  Islands, 
though  never  able  to  granulate  it,  we  have  frequently  boiled  its  juice 
to  a  thick  syrup,  and  used  it  as  a  substitute  for  sugar,  when  destitute 
of  that  article. 

OTHER  USES  OF  THE  TI  PLANT. 

"We  should  think  it  an  excellent  antiscorbutic,  and  as  such,  useful 
to  ships  on  long  voyages. 

Captains  visiting  the  Society  Islands  frequently  procure  large  quan- 
tities of  it  to  make  beer  with  during  their  voyage,  as  it  will  keep  good 
six  weeks  or  two  months  after  it  is  baked.  It  is  not  so  plentiful  in 
the  Sandwich  Islands  as  it  was  before  the  natives  used  it  for  the 
above  purpose,  but  in  some  of  the  other  islands  of  the  Pacific  it  is 
abundant,  and  may  be  easily  procured. 

On  my  return  in  the  American  ship  Eussell,  Captain  Coleman,  we 
procured  a  quantity  that  had  been  baked,  at  Eurutu,  near  the  Society 
Islands,  and  brought  it  round  Cape  Horn.  It  lasted  five  or  six 
weeks,  and  would  probably  have  kept  longer,  as  the  only  change  we 
perceived  during  that  time  was  a  slight  degree  of  acidity  in  the 
taste.  Cattle,  sheep,  and  goats,  are  fond  of  the  leaves;  and  as  they 
contain  more  nutriment  than  any  other  indigenous  vegetable,  and 
may  be  kept  on  board  ships  several  weeks,  they  are  certainly  the 
best  provender  that  can  be  procured  in  the  islands  for  stock  taken 
to  sea. 

TI   LEAVES    USED    AS   FLAGS   OF   TRUCE. 

Other  parts  of  the  dracaena  are  also  useful.  The  natives  fre- 
quently plant  the  roots  thickly  around  their  enclosures,  interweave 
the  stems  of  the  plant,  and  form  a  valuable  permanent  hedge. 

The  branch  was  always  an  emblem  of  peace,  and  in  times  of  war, 
borne,  together  with  a  young  plantain  tree,  as  a  flag  of  truce  by 
the  messengers  who  passed  between  the  hostile  parties. 


198 

The  leaves,  woven  together  by  their  stalks,  formed  a  short  cloak, 
which  the  natives  wore  in  their  mountainous  journeys;  they  also 
make  the  most  durable  thatch  for  the  sides  and  roofs  of  their  best 
houses,  are  employed  in  constructing  their  tents  in  war,  and  tem- 
porary abodes  during  their  inland  excursions. 

About  sunset  we  sent  to  the  head  man  of  the  village  for  some 
refreshment,  but  he  was  intoxicated;  and  though  we  had  walked  up- 
wards of  twenty  miles  since  morning,  and  had  subsisted  on  but  scanty 
fare  since  leaving  Kapapala,  we  could  only  procure  a  few  cold 
potatoes,  and  two  or  three  pieces  of  raw  salt  fish. 

SUPERSTITIOUS  FEAR  OP  PELE. 

Multitudes  crowded  around  our  hut;  and  with  those  that  were  sober 
wo  entered  into  conversation.  When  they  learned  that  we  had  been 
to  Kirauea,  they  were  unwilling  to  believe  we  had  broken  the  sulphur 
banks,  eaten  the  ohelo  berries,  descended  to  the  craters,  or  broken 
any  fragments  of  lava  from  them,  as  they  said  Pele  ma,  Pele  and  her 
associates,  would  certainly  have  revenged  the  insult.  However,  when 
our  boys  shewed  them  the  ohelo  berries,  with  the  specimens  of  sul- 
phur and  lava  that  we  had  brought  away,  they  were  convinced  that 
we  had  been  there,  but  said  we  had  escaped  only  because  we  were 
haore,  foreigners.  No  Hawaiian,  they  added,  would  have  done  so 
with  impunity,  for  Pele  was  a  dreadful  being. 

The  apprehensions  uniformly  entertained  by  the  natives,  of  the 
fearful  consequences  of  Pele 's  anger,  prevented  their  paying  very 
frequent  visits  to  the  vicinity  of  her  abode;  and  when,  on  their  inland 
journeys,  they  had  occasion  to  approach  Kirauea,  they  were  scrupu- 
lously attentive  to  every  injunction  of  her  priests,  and  regarded 
with  a  degree  of  superstitious  veneration  and  awe,  the  appalling  spec- 
tacle which  the  crater  and  its  appendages  presented. 

The  violations  of  her  sacred  abode,  and  the  insults  to  her  power, 
of  which  we  had  been  guilty,  appeared  to  them,  and  to  the  natives 
in  general,  acts  of  temerity  and  sacrilege;  and,  notwithstanding  the 
fact  of  our  being  foreigners,  we  were  subsequently  threatened  with 
the  vengeance  of  the  volcanic  deity,  under  the  following  circum- 
stancs. 

A   PRIESTESS   OF   PELE   THREATENS  VENGEANCE. 

Some  months  after  our  visit  to  Kirauea,  a  priestess  of  Pele  came 
to  Lahaina,  in  Maui,  where  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  islands  then 
resided.  The  object  of  her  visit  was  noised  abroad  among  the  people, 
and  much  public  interest  excited.  One  or  two  mornings  after  her 
arrival  in  the  district,  arrayed  in  her  prophetic  robes,  having  the 
edges  of  her  garments  burnt  with  fire,  and  holding  a  short  staff  or 


199 

spear  in  her  hand,  preceded  by  her  daughter,  who  was  also  a  candi- 
date for  the  office  of  priestess,  and  followed  by  thousands  of  the 
people,  she  came  into  the  presence  of  the  chiefs;  and  having  told  who 
she  was,  they  asked  what  communications  she  had  to  make. 

She  replied,  that,  in  a  trance  or  vision,  she  had  been  with  Pele, 
by  whom  she  was  charged  to  complain  to  them  that  a  number  of 
foreigners  had  visited  Kirauea;  eaten  the  sacred  berries;  broken  her 
houses,  the  craters;  thrown  down  large  stones,  &c.  to  request  that 
the  offenders  might  be  sent  away;  and  to  assure  them,  that  if  these 
foreigners  were  not  banished  from  the  islands,  Pele  would  certainly, 
in  a  given  number  of  days,  take  vengeance  by  inundating  the  country 
with  lava,  and  destroying  the  people.  She  also  pretended  to  have 
received,  in  a  supernatural  manner,  Kihoriho's  approbation  of  the 
request  of  the  goddess. 

PELE'S   PRIESTESS   REPUDIATED   BY   KAAHUMANU. 

The  crowds  of  natives  who  stood  waiting  the  result  of  her  inter- 
view with  the  chiefs,  were  almost  as  much  astonished  as  the  priestess 
herself,  when  Kaahumanu  and  the  other  chiefs  ordered  all  her  para- 
phernalia of  office  to  be  thrown  into  the  fire;  told  her  the  message 
she  had  delivered  was  a  falsehood,  and  directed  her  to  return  home, 
cultivate  the  ground  for  her  subsistence,  and  discontinue  her  jour- 
neys of  deception  among  the  people. 

This  answer  was  dictated  by  the  chiefs  themselves. 

The  missionaries  at  the  station,  although  they  were  aware  of  the 
visit  of  the  priestess,  and  saw  her,  followed  by  the  thronging  crowd, 
pass  by  their  habitation  on  her  way  to  the  residence  of  the  chiefs, 
did  not  think  it  necessary  to  attend  or  interfere,  but  relied  entirely 
on  the  enlightened  judgment  and  integrity  of  the  chiefs,  to  suppress 
any  attempts  that  might  be  made  to  revive  the  influence  of  Pele 
over  the  people;  and  in  the  result  they  were  not  disappointed,  for 
the  natives  returned  to  their  habitations,  and  the  priestess  soon  after 
left  the  island,  and  has  not  since  troubled  them  with  the  threaten- 
ings  of  the  goddess. 

KAPIOLANI'S   VISIT    TO    KILAUEA. 

On  another  occasion,  Kapiolani,  a  pious  chief -woman,  the  wife  of 
Naihe,  chief  of  Kaavaroa,  was  passing  near  the  volcano,  and  ex- 
pressed her  determination  to  visit  it. 

Some  of  the  devotees  of  the  goddess  met  her,  and  attempted  to  dis- 
suade her  from  her  purpose;  assuring  her  that  though  foreigners 
might  go  there  with  security,  yet  Pele  would  allow  no  Hawaiian  to 
intrude. 


200 

Kapiolani,  however,  was  not  to  be  thus  diverted,  but  proposed  that 
they  should  all  go  together;  and  declaring  that  if  Pele  appeared,  or 
inflicted  any  punishment,  she  would  then  worship  the  goddess,  but 
proposing  that  if  nothing  of  the  kind  took  place,  they  should  renounce 
their  attachment  to  Pele,  and  join  with  her  and  her  friends  in 
acknowledging  Jehovah  as  the  true  God. 

They  all  went  together  to  the  volcano;  Kapiolani,  with  her  attend- 
ants, descended  several  hundred  feet  towards  the  bottom  of  the 
crater,  where  she  spoke  to  them  of  the  delusion  they  had  formerly 
laboured  under  in  supposing  it  inhabited  by  their  false  gods;  they 
sung  a  hymn,  and  after  spending  several  hours  in  the  vicinity,  pur- 
sued their  journey.  What  effect  the  conduct  of  Kapiolani,  on  this 
occasion,  will  have  on  the  natives  in  general,  remains  yet  to  be  dis- 
covered. 

RECENT  VOLCANIC  ACTIVITY  AT   KEALAALA   AND   MAHUKA. 

The  people  of  Kearakomo  also  told  us,  that  no  longer  than  five 
moons  ago,  Pele,  had  issued  from  a  subterranean  cavern,  and  over- 
flowed the  low  land  of  Kearaara,  and  the  southern  part  of  Kapapala. 
The  inundation  was  sudden  and  violent,  burnt  one  canoe,  and  car- 
ried four  more  into  the  sea. 

At  Mahuka,  the  deep  torrent  of  lava  bore  into  the  sea  a  large  rock, 
according  to  their  account,  near  a  hundred  feet  high,  which,  a  short 
period  before,  had  been  separated  by  an  earthquake  from  the  main 
pile  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  now  stands,  they  say,  in  the  sea,  nearly 
a  mile  from  the  shore,  its  bottom  surrounded  by  lava,  its  summit 
rising  considerably  above  the  water. 

"We  exceedingly  regretted  our  ignorance  of  this  inundation  at  the 
time  when  we  passed  through  the  inland  parts  of  the  above-men- 
tioned districts,  for  had  we  known  of  it  then,  we  should  certainly 
have  descended  to  the  shore,  and  examined  its  extent  and  appearance. 

We  now  felt  convinced  that  the  chasms  we  had  visited  at  Ponaho- 
hoa,  and  the  smoking  fissures  we  afterwards  saw  nearer  Kirauea, 
marked  the  course  of  a  stream  of  lava,  and  thought  it  probable  that 
though  the  lava  had  burst  out  five  months  ago,  it  was  still  flowing  in 
a  smaller  and  less  rapid  stream. 

Perhaps  the  body  of  lava  that  had  filled  Kirauea  up  to  the  black 
ledge  which  we  saw,  between  three  and  four  hundred  feet  above  the 
liquid  lava,  at  the  time  we  visited  it,  had  been  drawn  off  by  this 
subterranean  channel,  though  the  distance  between  the  great  crater 
and  the  land  overflowed  by  it,  was  not  less  than  thirty  or  thirty- 
five  miles. 


201 
A    NIGHT    AND    DAY    AT    KEALAKOMO. 

When  the  day  began  to  close,  and  we  wished  the  natives  to  retire, 
we  told  them  that  to-morrow  was  the  sacred  day  of  Jehovah,  the 
true  God,  and  directed  them  to  come  together  early  in  the  morning, 
to  hear  his  word,  and  unite  with  us  in  his  worship.  We  then  spread 
our  mats  upon  some  poles  that  lay  at  one  end  of  the  house,  and,  as 
we  had  no  lamp,  and  could  procure  no  candle-nuts,  we  laid  ourselves 
down  as  soon  as  it  became  dark,  and,  notwithstanding  our  uncom- 
fortable lodging  place,  slept  very  soundly  till  day-break. 

' '  Welcome,  sweet  day  of  rest, ' '  was  the  language  of  our  hearts,  as 
on  the  morning  of  the  3d  we  beheld  the  Sabbath's  early  light  dawn 
on  the  desolate  shores  of  Puna,  and  saw  the  bright  luminary  of  day, 
emblem  of  the  Sabbath's  Lord,  rise  from  the  eastern  wave  of  the 
extended  Pacific. 

After  the  fatiguing  journey,  and  unusual  excitement,  of  the  past 
week,  a  day's  rest  was  necessary,  and  we  were  happy  to  spend  it 
in  the  populous,  though  desolate-looking  village  of  Kearakomo,  as  it 
afforded  us  an  opportunity  of  unfolding  the  Saviour 's  love  to  many  of 
its  inhabitants,  and  inviting  them  to  seek  that  everlasting  rest  and 
happiness  reserved  for  his  followers  in  the  heavenly  world. 

SUNDAY  MORNING  SERVICES  WITH  THE  NATIVES. 

Between  six  and  seven  o'clock,  about  two  hundred  of  the  people 
collected  in  front  of  our  house.  We  sung  a  hymn;  one  of  our  number 
preached  to  them  a  discourse,  which  occupied  rather  more  than  half 
an  hour;  and  another  concluded  the  service  with  prayer.  They  were 
all  sober,  and  appeared  attentive.  Several  proposed  questions  to  us; 
and  when  we  had  answered  them,  we  directed  them  to  return  to  their 
houses,  to  abstain  from  fishing  and  other  ordinary  employments,  and, 
when  the  sun  was  over  their  heads,  (the  manner  of  expressing  mid- 
day,) to  come  together  again,  and  hear  more  about  Jehovah  and 
Jesus  Christ.  Many,  however,  continued  talking  with  the  natives  be- 
longing to  our  company,  and  gazing  at  us  through  most  of  the  day. 

HOSPITALITY  OP  NATIVES. 

About  nine  a.  m.  a  friend  of  Mauae  brought  us  a  bundle  of  potatoes 
and  a  fowl.  We  procured  another;  our  native  boys  cooked  them  in 
an  oven  of  stones  under  ground,  and  they  made  us  a  good  breakfast. 
All  that  we  wanted  was  fresh  water,  that  which  we  were  obliged  to 
drink  being  extremely  brackish.  For  it,  however,  and  our  other  re- 
freshments,  we   felt   thankful;    and   considered   the   inconvenience   of 


202 

wanting  fresh  water  very  trifling,  compared  with,  the  pleasure  which 
passing  a  Sabbath  among  the  poor  benighted  people  around,  imparted, 
in  declaring  to  them  the  love  of  God,  and  inviting  them  to  partake 
of  the  bread  which  came  down  from  heaven,  and  to  drink  of  the  foun- 
tain of  the  water  of  life. 

FURTHER    SERVICES   AND    HOSPITALITY. 

At  12  o'clock,  about  three  hundred  of  the  people  again  assembled 
near  our  dwelling,  and  we  held  a  religious  exercise  similar  to  that 
which  they  had  attended  in  the  morning. 

The  head  man  of  the  village  was  present  during  the  service.  He 
came  into  our  house  after  it  was  over,  and  told  us  all  his  provisions 
were  at  his  farm,  which  was  some  distance  inland,  and  that  tomor- 
row he  intended  to  bring  us  a  pig,  and  some  potatoes.  We  thanked 
him,  but  told  him  probably  we  should  proceed  on  our  way  early  in  the 
morning.  He  went  away,  and  in  a  short  time  returned  with  a  raw 
salted  albicore,  and  a  basket  of  baked  sweet  potatoes,  which  he  said 
was  all  he  could  furnish  us  with  to-day. 

We  spent  the  afternoon  in  conversation  with  those  who  crowded 
our  hut,  and  wished  to  inquire  more  fully  about  the  things  of  which 
they  had  heard. 

Between  five  and  six  in  the  evening,  the  people  again  collected  for 
worship  in  front  of  our  house,  when  they  were  addressed  from  Isaiah 
lx.  1.  "Arise,  shine,  for  thy  light  is  come."  They  listened  with 
attention  to  the  advantages  of  Christian  light  and  knowledge,  con- 
trasted with  pagan  ignorance  and  misery,  and  several  exclaimed  at 
the  close  of  the  service,  Oia  no.  Poereere  makou.  E  ake  makou  i 
hoomaramarania  ia.  "So  it  is.  We  are  dark.  We  desire  to  be  en- 
lightened." 

FRESH  WATER  A  LUXURY. 

In  the  evening,  we  were  so  favoured  as  to  procure  a  calabash-full 
of  fresh  water  from  the  caves  in  the  mountains,  where  it  had  filtered 
through  the  strata  of  lava,  and  was  received  into  vessels  placed  there 
for  that  purpose.  It  tasted  bitter,  from  standing  long  in  the  cala- 
bashes; but  yet  it  was  a  luxury,  for  our  thirst  was  great,  notwith- 
standing the  quantities  of  water  we  had  drank  during  the  day. 

About  sunset  we  ate  some  of  our  raw  fish  and  half-baked  potatoes. 
When  it  began  to  grow  dark,  we  concluded  the  day  with  prayer, 
imploring  the  gracious  influences  of  the  Holy  Spirit  to  follow  our 
feeble  attempts  to  declare  his  truth,  and  make  it  effectual  to  the 
spiritual  welfare  of  the  people. 

We  afterwards  lay  down  upon  our  mats,  but  passed  an  uncom- 
fortable night,  from  the  swarms  of  vermin  which  infested  the  house, 


203 

and  the  indisposition  induced  by  the  nature  of  the  food  and  water  we 
had  taken  since  leaving  the  volcano. 

"We  held  worship  with  the  people  of  the  village  at  sunrise  on  the 
4th,  and  after  a  short  address,  in  which  we  earnestly  recommended 
them  to  give  themselves  up  to  the  Saviour,  we  bade  them  farewell, 
and  set  out  again  on  our  journey. 

Leaving  Kearakomo,  we  travelled  several  miles  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  along  the  same  bed  of  lava  that  we  had  crossed  on  Satur- 
day evening. 

WHY  NATIVES  LIVE   ALONG  THE   SHORE. 

The  population  of  this  part  of  Puna,  though  somewhat  numerous, 
did  not  appear  to  possess  the  means  of  subsistence  in  any  great 
variety  or  abundance;  and  we  have  often  been  surprised  to  find  the 
desolate  coasts  more  thickly  inhabited  than  some  of  the  fertile 
tracts  in  the  interior;  a  circumstance  we  can  only  account  for,  by 
supposing  that  the  facilities  which  the  former  afford  for  fishing, 
induce  the  natives  to  prefer  them  as  places  of  abode;  for  they  find 
that  where  the  coast  is  low,  the  adjacent  water  is  generally  shallow. 

"We  saw  several  fowls  and  a  few  hogs  here,  but  a  tolerable  number 
of  dogs,  and  quantities  of  dried  salt  fish,  principally  albicores  and 
bonitos.  This  latter  article,  with  their  poe  and  sweet  potatoes,  con- 
stitutes nearly  the  entire  support  of  the  inhabitants,  not  only  in  this 
vicinity,  but  on  the  sea-coasts  of  the  north  and  south  parts  of  the 
island. 

DRIED    FISH    AN    ARTICLE    OF    COMMERCE. 

Besides  what  is  reserved  for  their  own  subsistence,  they  cure  large 
quantities  as  an  article  of  commerce,  which  they  exchange  for  the 
vegetable  productions  of  Hiro  and  Mamakua,  or  the  mamake  and 
other  tapas  of  Ora  and  the  more  fertile  districts  of  Hawaii. 

When  we  had  passed  Punau,  Leapuki,  and  Kamomoa,  the  country 
began  to  wear  a  more  agreeable  aspect.  Groves  of  cocoa-nuts  orna- 
mented the  projecting  points  of  land,  clumps  of  kou-trees  appeared 
in  various  directions,  and  the  habitations  of  the  natives  were  also 
thickly  scattered  over  the  coast. 

THE   HEIAU   OF   WAHAULA. 

At  noon  we  passed  through  Pulana,  where  we  saw  a  large  heiau 
called  "Wahaura,  Eed  Mouth,  or  Ked-feathcr  Mouth,  built  by 
Tamehameha,  and  dedicated  to  Tairi,  his  war-god.  Human  sacrifices, 
we  were  informed,  were  occasionally  offered  here. 


204 

Shortly  after,  we  reached  Kupahua,  a  pleasant  village,  situated  on  a 
rising  ground,  in  the  midst  of  groves  of  shady  trees,  and  surrounded 
by  a  well-cultivated  country.  Here  we  stopped,  and,  having  collected 
the  people  of  the  village,  I  preached  to  them.  They  afterwards 
proposed  several  interesting  inquiries  connected  with  what  they  had 
heard,  and  said  it  was  a  good  thing  for  us  to  aroha,  or  have  com- 
passion on  them.    They  also  asked  when  we  would  come  again. 

AT   KALAPANA — RESIDENCE    OP   PRIEST   KAPIHI. 

Leaving  this  interesting  place,  we  passed  on  to  Kalapana,  a  small 
village  on  the  sea-shore,  distingished  as  the  residence  of  Kapihi,  the 
priest,  who,  in  the  days  of  Tamehameha,  told  the  king,  that  after 
death  he  and  all  his  ancestors  would  live  again  on  Hawaii. 

We  saw  a  large  heiau,  of  which  he  was  chief  priest,  but  did  not  see 
many  people  in  the  houses  as  we  passed  by.  Kapihi  had  many 
disciples,  who  believed,  or  pretended  to  believe,  his  predictions. 

Frequent  offerings  were  made  to  Kuahairo,  his  god,  at  other  parts 
of  the  island  more  frequently  visited  by  the  king,  and  this  probably 
drew  away  many  of  the  people  from  Kalapana. 

AT   KAIMTJ — ROYAL  RECEPTION   TO   MAUAE. 

About  three  p.  m.  we  approached  Kaimu.  This  was  the  birth-place 
of  Mauae,  and  the  residence  of  most  of  his  relations.  He  was  a 
young  man  belonging  to  .the  governor,  who  had  been  sent  with  the 
canoe,  and  who,  since  leaving  Honuapo,  had  acted  as  our  guide.  He 
walked  before  us  as  we  entered  the  village.  The  old  people  from  the 
houses  welcomed  him  as  he  passed  along,  and  numbers  of  the  young 
men  and  women  came  out  to  meet  him,  saluted  him  by  touching 
noses,  and  wept  for  joy  at  his  arrival.  Some  took  off  his  hat,  and 
crowned  him  with  a  garland  of  flowers;  others  hung  round  his  neck 
wreaths  of  a  sweet-scented  plant  resembling  ivy,  or  necklaces  com- 
posed of  the  nut  of  the  fragrant  pandanus  odoratissime. 

When  we  reached  the  house  where  his  sister  lived,  she  ran  to  meet 
him,  threw  her  arms  around  his  neck,  and  having  affectionately 
embraced  him,  walked  hand  in  hand  with  him  through  the  village. 

Multitudes  of  young  people  and  children  followed,  chanting  his 
name,  the  names  of  his  parents,  the  place  and  circumstances  of  his 
birth,  and  the  most  remarkable  events  in  the  history  of  his  family, 
in  a  lively  song,  which,  he  afterwards  informed  us,  was  composed  on 
the  occasion  of  his  birth.  The  following  fragments  of  the  commence- 
ment, which  I  afterwards  wrote  down  from  the  mouth  of  one  of  his 
aged  relatives  who  was  with  us,  will  suffice  as  a  specimen,  as  the 
whole  is  too  Ions;  for  insertion: 


205 


FRAGMENT  OF  A  SONG  ON  THE  NAME  OF  MAUAE. 


Inoa  o  Mauae  a  Para, 
He    aha    matou   auanei 

0  Mauae,  te  wahine  horua  nui, 
Wahine  maheai  pono. 

Tuu  ra  te  Ravaia 

1  ta  -wahine  maheai, 

I   pono  wale   ai   te   aina   o   orua. 

I  ravaia   te  tane, 

I  mahe  ai  te  wahine, 

Mahe  te  ai  na  te  ohua, 

I   ai   na  te   puari. 

Malarna  te  ora  na  te  hoapiriwale. 
E    Mahe    ai   na    Tuitelani. 
Owerawahie    i    uta    i    Tapapala. 

Tupu  mau  ua  ore  te  pari. 

Oneanea   te  aina  o  Tuaehu. 

Ua    tu   ra   te   manu    i    te    pari    Ohara- 

hara. 
Ewaru  te  po,    ewaru  te   ao, 
Ua    pau    te    aho    o    na    hoa    maheai, 

I  te  tarni  wale  i  te  rau,  a  maloa. 

Ua  mate  i  te  la, 
Ua  tu  nevaneva. 
I  ta  matani,  ua  ino  auaurere, 

Ua  tu  ta  repo  i  Hiona : 

Pura  ta  onohi  i  ta  u  i  ta  repo. 

0  Tauai,  O  Tauai,  aroha  wale 
Te   aina   i   roto  o   te   tai, 

E    noho   marie    oe    I   roto    o    te    tai, 

E    hariu    ai    te    aro    i    rehua. 

Pura    ta    onohi    i    ta    matani, 
Ta    tatau    ta    iri    onionio, 

Ta    repo    a    Tau    i    Pohaturoa, 

Te    a    i    Ohiaotalani. 

Ma  tai  te  aranui  e  hiti  ai 

1  te    one    i    Taimu, 
Ma    uta    i    ta    tuahivi, 
Te    aranui    i    hunaia. 
Narowale    Tirauea    i    te    ino. 
Noho    Pele    i    Tirauea, 

I    tahu    mau    ana    i    te    rua. 


Name   of   Mauae,1    (son)    of   Para, 

How  shall  we  dnclare  ? 

O   Mauae,    woman   famous   at  horua, 

Woman  tilling  well  the  ground. 

Give   the   fisherman, 

To  the  woman  (who)   tilleth  the  ground; 

Happy  will  be  the  land  of  you  two. 

A  fisherman  the  husband, 

The  wife  a  tiller  of  the  ground. 

Cultivated  food  for  the  aged,  and  the 
young ; 

Food  for  the  company  of  favourite  war- 
riors. 

Regarded  the  life  of  the  friend. 

Cultivated   for   Tuitelani.3 

Burnt  were  the  woods  inland  of  Tapa- 
pala. 

Long  parched  had  been  the  precipice. 

Lonely  was   the   land  of  Tuaehu. 

The    bird    perched    on    Oharahara    rooks. 

Eight    the    nights,    eight    the    days. 
Gone  was  the  breath  of  those  who  help 

the  tillage, 
With      planting      herbs       (they)       were 

fatigued; 
Fainting  under  the  sun, 
(They)    looked  anxiously  around. 
By      the      wind,      the      flying      scudding 

tempest, 
Thrown  up  was  the   earth    (or  dust)    at 

Hiona  : 
Red  were  the  eye-balls  with  the  dust. 
O   Tauai.4   O   Tauai,    loved   he 
The   land  in   the  midst   of   the   sea, 
Thou    dwellest    quietly    in    the    midst    of 

the   sea, 
And    turnest    thy    face    to    the    pleasant 

wind, 
Red  were  the  eye  balls  with  the  wind, 
i  Of  those)   whose  skin  was  spotted  with 

tatau, 
The    sand   of   Taii    (lay)    at    Pohaturoa,5 
Tii.      lava     at     Ohiaotalani." 
By  the  sea  was  the  road  to  arrive 
AI    the   sandy  beach  of  Taimu, 
Inland    by   the    mountain    ridges, 
The    path    that    was    concealed. 
His     was    Tirauea7     by     the     temp 

Pele8   abode   in   Tirauea, 

In   the   i>it,   ever   feeding   the   fires. 


'Mother    of    the    young    man.      2  Horua,    a    native    game.       'Name    of    a    chief. 
*At00i.      '■  Districts.      "North   peak   of   the   volcano.     '  The   great   volcano 
deal   of   volcanoes. 


20G 

They  continued  chanting  their  song,  and  thus  we  passed  through 
their  plantations,  and  groves  of  cocoanut  trees,  till  we  reached  his 
father's  house,  where  a  general  effusion  of  affection  and  joy  pre- 
sented itself,  which  it  was  impossible  to  witness  without  delight. 

MAUAE'S  FAMILY  REUNION. 

A  number  of  children,  who  ran  on  before,  had  announced  his  ap- 
proach; his  father,  followed  by  his  brothers  and  several  other  rela- 
tions, came  out  to  meet  him,  and,  under  the  shade  of  a  wide-spreading 
kou-tree,  fell  on  his  neck,  and  wept  aloud  for  some  minutes;  after 
which  they  took  him  by  the  hand,  and  led  him  through  a  neat  little 
garden  into  the  house. 

He  seated  himself  on  a  mat  on  the  floor,  while  his  brothers  and 
sisters  gathered  around  him;  some  unlossed  his  sandals,  and  rubbed 
his  limbs  and  feet;  others  clasped  his  hand,  frequently  saluting  it 
by  touching  it  with  their  nose;  others  brought  him  a  calabash  of 
water,   or  a  lighted  tobacco  pipe. 

One  of  his  sisters,  in  particular,  seemed  much  affected;  she  clasped 
his  hand,  and  sat  for  some  time  weeping  by  his  side.  At  this  we 
should  have  been  surprised,  had  we  not  known  it  to  be  the  usual  man- 
ner, among  the  South  Sea  Islanders,  of  expressing  unusual  joy  or 
grief.  In  the  present  instance,  it  was  the  unrestrained  expression 
of  joyful  feelings.  Indeed,  every  one  seemed  at  a  loss  how  to  mani- 
fest the  sincere  pleasure  which  his  unexpected  arrival,  after  several 
years'  absence,  had  produced. 

WELL  PROVIDED  FOR  WITH  FOOD  AND  FRESH  WATER. 

On  first  reaching  the  house,  we  had  thrown  ourselves  down  on  a 
mat,  and  remained  silent  spectators,  not,  however,  without  being 
considerably  affected  by  the  interesting  scene. 

We  had  been  sitting  in  the  house  about  an  hour,  when  a  small 
hog,  baked  under-ground,  with  some  good  sweet  potatoes,  was  brought 
in  for  dinner,  of  which  we  were  kindly  invited  to  partake.  As 
there  was  also  plenty  of  good  fresh  water  here,  we  found  ourselves 
more  comfortably  provided  for  than  we  had  been  since  leaving  Ka- 
papala  on  Thursday  last. 

At  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  sent  to  collect  the  people  of  the 
village  to  hear  preaching.  Between  three  and  four  hundred  assem- 
bled, under  a  clump  of  shady  cordia  trees,  in  front  of  the  house, 
and  I  preached  to  them  from  Psalm  xxii.  verses  27  and  28. 

Our  singing  appeared  to  interest  them,  as  well  as  other  parts  of 
the  service,  and  at  the  conclusion  several  exclaimed,  "Jehovah  is  a 
good  God;  I  desire  him  for  my  God." 


207 

About  this  time  Makoa  arrived  with  our  baggage.  We  were  glad 
to  see  him,  and  inquired  where  he  had  been  during  the  past  week? 
He  said  he  remained  only  one  night  at  Honuapo,  and  followed  on  the 
next  morning;  observing,  at  the  same  time,  we  must  have  travelled 
fast,  or  he  should  have  been  here  before  us,  as  he  had  not  gone 
round  by  the  volcano,  but  had  proceeded  in  a  straight  line  from 
Kapapala  to  Kearakomo. 

NATIVE  TRADITIONS  CONCERNING  THE  VOLCANO. 

The  evenings  we  spent  with  the  people  of  the  place  in  conversa- 
tion on  various  subjects,  but  principally  respecting  the  volcano  which 
we  had  recently  visited.  They  corroborated  the  accounts  we  had 
before  heard,  by  telling  us  it  had  been  burning  from  time  imme- 
morial, and  added,  that  eruptions  from  it  had  taken  place  during 
every  king's  reign,  whose  name  was  preserved  in  tradition,  or  song, 
from  Akea,  first  king  of  the  island,  down  to  the  present  monarch. 

Kaimu,  the  district  where  we  were,  was  overflowed  in  the  days  of 
Arapai,  but  how  many  generations  it  was  since  he  reigned,  we  could 
not  learn,  as  they  were  not  agreed  about  it  among  themselves. 

They  also  repeated  the  account  of  the  inundation  of  Kearaara,  and 
the  low  land  of  Kapapala,  five  moons  ago,  and  some  of  them  told  us 
they  had  seen  the  large  rock  carried  out  into  the  sea  at  Mahuka. 
Like  the  people  of  Kearakomo,  they  believed  Kirauea  to  be  the  abode 
of  supernatural  beings. 

They  recapitulated  the  contest  between  Pele  and  Tamapuaa,  and 
related  the  adventures  of  several  warriors,  who,  with  spear  in  hand, 
had  opposed  the  volcanic  demons  when  coming  down  on  a  torrent  of 
lava.  They  could  not  believe  that  we  had  descended  into  the  crater, 
or  broken  off  pieces  of  Pele's  houses,  as  they  called  the  small  craters, 
until  the  specimens  of  lava,  &c.  were  produced,  when  some  of  them 
looked  very  significantly,  and  none  of  them  cared  much  to  handle 
them. 

We  tried  to  convince  them  of  their  mistake  in  supposing  Kirauea 
was  inhabited,  and  unfolded  to  them,  in  as  simple  a  manner  as  pos- 
sible, the  nature  of  volcanoes,  and  of  their  various  phenomena,  assur- 
ing them,  at  the  same  time,  that  they  were  under  the  sovereign  con- 
trol of  Jehovah,  the  only  true  God.  Some  said,  "Ae  paha,"  "Yes, 
perhaps;"  others  were  silent. 

PREACHING  AND  TALKING  AT  KAIMU. 

Numbers  of  the  people  were  present  at  our  evening  worship,  which 
we  conducted  in  their  language. 

After  a  very  comfortable  night's  rest,  we  arose  at  daybreak  on  the 
5th. 


208 

At  sun-rise  the  people  assembled  more  numerously  than  they  had 
done  on  the  preceding  evening,  and  I  preached  to  them  from  these 
words, — "Herein  is  love,  not  that  we  loved  God,  but  that  he  loved  us, 
and  sent  his  Son  to  be  the  propitiation  for  our  sins."  They  appeared 
to  listen  with  interest,  and  numbers  s^at  down  under  the  kou-trees, 
talking  among  themselves  on  the  subject,  for  a  long  time  after  the 
services  had  closed. 

After  breakfast  we  walked  through  the  district,  entered  several  of 
the  cottages,  and  talked  with  the  people. 

GREAT  EARTHQUAKE  AT  KAIMU  IN   1823. 

We  also  examined  the  effects  of  an  earthquake  experienced  in  this 
place  about  two  months  before.  We  were  informed  that  it  took  place 
about  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  ground,  after  being  agitated 
some  minutes  with  a  violent  tremulous  motion,  suddenly  burst  open, 
for  several  miles  in  extent,  in  a  direction  from  north  by  east,  to 
south  by  west,  and  emitted,  in  various  places  at  the  same  instant, 
a  considerable  quantity  of  smoke  and  luminous  vapour,  but  none  of  the 
people  were  injured  by  it. 

A  stone  wall,  four  feet  thick  and  six  feet  high,  enclosing  a  garden 
at  the  north  end  of  the  village,  was  thrown  down. 

A  chasm  about  a  foot  wide  marked  distinctly  its  course;  this  was 
generally  open,  though  in  some  places  it  seemed  as  if  the  earth  had 
closed  up  again. 

AN  EARTHQUAKE  CHASM. 

We  entered  a  house,  sixteen  feet  by  twelve  in  the  inside,  through 
which  it  had  passed.  Ten  persons,  viz.  one  man,  six  women,  and 
three  children,  were  asleep  here  at  the  time  it  occurred.  They  were 
lying  on  both  sides  of  the  house,  with  their  heads  towards  the  centre; 
some  of  them  very  near  the  place  where  the  ground  was  rent  open. 
The  trembling  of  the  ground,  they  said,  awoke  them,  but  before 
they  could  think  what  it  was  that  had  disturbed  them,  the  earth 
opened  with  a  violent  percussion;  a  quantity  of  sand  and  dust  was 
thrown  up  with  violence,  and  smoke  and  steam  were  at  the  same  time 
emitted. 

After  a  short  interval,  a  second  percussion  was  felt,  vapour  again 
arose,  and  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  house  to  that  in  which  they 
were  lying,  they  saw  a  light  blue  flame,  which  almost  instantly  dis- 
appeared. 

We  asked  them  if  they  were  not  alarmed?  They  said  they  were  at 
first,  but  after  remaining  awake  some  time,  and  finding  the  shock 
was  not  repeated,  they  lay  down  and  slept  till  morning,  when 
they  filled  up  the  fissure  with  grass  and  earth! 


209 

We  examined  the  aperture,  that  still  remained  open  at  one  end  of 
the  house,  and  found  its  sides  perpendicular,  and  its  breadth  one  foot 
and  eleven  inches.  The  north-west  corner  of  the  house  was  broken  by 
the  shock. 

TRACING  THE  EARTHQUAKE  CRACK. 

We  next  traced  its  course  through  the  fields  of  potatoes.  In  some 
places  the  ground  seemed  hardly  disturbed,  yet  it  sunk  six  or  eight 
inches  beneath  our  tread.  At  other  places  we  saw  apertures  upwards 
of  two  feet  wide.  The  potatoes  that  were  growing  immediately  in 
the  direction  of  the  fissure,  were  all  spoiled.  Several  roots  of  consid- 
erable size  were  thrown  out  of  the  ground,  and,  according  to  the 
representations  of  the  natives,  appeared  as  if  they  had  been  scorched. 

At  the  south  end  of  the  village,  it  had  passed  through  a  small 
well,  in  which  originally  there  was  seldom  more  than  eighteen  inches' 
depth  of  water,  though  since  that  period  there  has  been  upwards  of 
three  feet. 

The  crack  was  about  ten  inches  wide,  running  from  north  to  south 
across  the  bottom  of  the  well.  The  water  has  not  only  increased  in 
quantity,  but  suffered  a  great  deterioration  in  quality,  being  now 
very  salt;  and  its  rising  and  falling  with  the  ebbing  and  flowing  of 
the  tide,  indicates  its  connexion  with  the  waters  of  the  ocean,  from 
which  it  is  distant  about  300  yards. 

Convulsions  of  this  kind  are  common  over  the  whole  island:  they 
are  not,  however,  so  frequent  in  this  vicinity  as  in  the  northern  and 
western  parts,  and  are  seldom  violent,  except  when  they  immediately 
precede  the  eruption  of  a  volcano. 

The  superstitions  of  the  natives  lead  them  to  believe  they  are  pro- 
duced by  the  power  of  Pele,  or  some  of  the  volcanic  deities,  and  con- 
sider them  as  requisitions  for  offerings,  or  threatenings  of  still  greater 
calamities. 

DESCRIPTION  AND  POPULATION  OP  KAIMU  AND  MAKENA. 

In  the  afternoon,  Messrs.  Thurston  and  Bishop  walked  over  to 
Makena,  a  pleasant  village  about  a  mile  to  the  southward  of  Kaimu, 
where  they  collected  about  one  hundred  people,  to  whom  Mr.  Thurs- 
ton preached  in  one  of  their  houses.  A  greater  number  would  prob- 
ably have  attended,  but  for  the  rain  which  fell  during  most  of  the 
afternoon.  Mr.  Bishop  numbered  the  houses  in  the  village,  and  found 
them,  including  Makena,  to  be  145. 

Kaimu  is  pleasantly  situated  near  the  sea  shore,  on  the  S.  E.  side 
of  the  island,  standing  on  a  bed  of  lava  considerably  decomposed, 
and  covered  over  with  a  light  and  fertile  soil.  It  is  adorned  with 
plantations,  groves  of  cocoa-nuts,  and  clumps  of  kou-trees.     It  has  a 

14 


210 

fine  Bandy  beach,  where  canoes  may  land  with  safety;  and,  according 
to  the  houses  numbered  to-day,  contains  about  725  inhabitants. 

Including  the  villages  in  its  immediate  vicinity,  along  the  coast, 
the  population  would  probably  amount  to  2000;  and,  if  water  could 
be  procured  near  at  hand,  it  would  form  an  eligible  missionary 
station. 

There  are  several  wells  in  the  village,  containing  brackish  water, 
which  has  passed  from  the  sea,  through  the  cells  of  the  lava,  under- 
going a  kind  of  nitration,  and  is  collected  in  hollows  scooped  out  to 
receive  it. 

The  natives  told  us,  that,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  mile  there  was 
plenty  of  fresh  water. 

KAIMU    NATIVES    SOBER    AND    INDUSTRIOUS. 

The  extent  of  cultivation  in  the  neighbourhood,  together  with  the 
decent  and  orderly  appearance  of  the  people,  induced  us  to  think 
they  are  more  sober  and  industrious  than  those  of  many  villages 
through  which  we  have  passed. 

The  rain  continuing  through  the  afternoon,  prevented  our  preach- 
ing to  the  people,  but  many,  influenced  probably  by  motives  of 
curiosity,  collected  in  the  house  where  we  lodged,  in  conversation  with 
whom  we  passed  the  evening. 

Their  ignorance  and  superstition  awakened  lively  sympathy  in  our 
minds.  They  are  still  "without  God  in  the  world,"  and  are  satis- 
fied  with  their  state. 

RELIGIOUS  BELIEFS   AND   THEORIES. 

Like  the  inhabitants  of  Honuapo  and  Kapauku,  and  most  of  those 
we  had  conversed  with  on  the  subject,  they  rejoiced  in  the  abolition 
of  the  national  idolatry.  Its  general  features  precluded  their  ever 
contemplating  it  with  pleasure  or  satisfaction,  and  every  memento 
that  remains,  only  serves  to  awaken  the  recollection  of  its  cruelty, 
and  the  oppressive  bondage  under  which  they  were  enslaved  while  it 
continued.  From  this  they  feel  themselves  emancipated,  and  seem 
also  to  enjoy,  in  some  degree,  the  social  and  domestic  comfort  re- 
sulting from  their  dwelling  together  in  one  house,  sitting  down  to 
the  same  repast,  and  eating  the  same  kind  of  food.  But  though  they 
approved  of  the  destruction  of  the  national  idols,  many  were  far, from 
having  renounced  idolatry,  and  were  in  general  destitute  of  all 
knowledge  of  that  dispensation  of  grace  and  truth  which  came  by 
Jesus  Christ.  They  related  many  tales  about  their  gods,  and  seemed 
firm  believers  in  the  existence  of  deities  in  the  volcanoes. 


211 
NATIVE    THEORIES    CONCERNING    LIFE    AFTER    DEATH. 

Bespecting  family  idols,  the  natives  in  general  suppose  that  after 
the  death  of  any  member  of  a  family,  the  spirit  of  the  departed 
hovers  about  the  places  of  its  former  resort,  appears  to  the  survivors 
sometimes  in  a  dream,  and  watches  over  their  destinies;  hence  they 
worship  an  image  with  which  they  imagine  the  spirit  is  in  some  way 
connected. 

We  endeavoured  to  convince  them  of  their  mistake  respecting  the 
objects  of  their  worship,  spoke  to  them  of  Jehovah,  the  only  being  to 
whom  religious  homage  should  be  rendered,  and  of  that  life  and 
immortality  revealed  in  the  sacred  scriptures. 

Before  we  retired,  we  wrote  a  letter  to  the  governor,  informing 
him  of  our  progress,  the  hospitality  of  the  people  in  general,  and 
the  kind  attention  we  had  received  from  Mauae,  who  intended  to 
return  from  this  place  to  Kairua. 

At  daybreak  on  the  6th,  Mauae  and  his  family  united  with  us  in 
our  morning  worship,  after  which  we  recommended  him  to  improve 
the  time  he  might  spend  here,  in  teaching  his  brothers  and  sisters 
to  read  and  write,  in  telling  them  of  the  true  God,  and  persuading 
them,  and  the  people  of  the  place,  to  avoid  intoxication  and  every 
other  vice,  and  to  regard  the  sabbath-day  by  refraining  from  labour 
and  amusement.  He  promised  to  try  what  he  could  do;  and,  when 
we  had  taken  leave  of  the  family,  he  walked  with  us  through  the 
village,  pointed  out  the  best  road,  then  gave  us  his  parting  aroha, 
and  returned  to  his  house. 

DISCUSSIONS  WITH  THE  NATIVES  AT  KEOUOHANA. 

After  travelling  nearly  two  hours,  we  arrived  at  Keouohana,  where 
we  sat  down  to  rest  beneath  the  shade  of  some  cocoa-nut  trees. 

Makoa,  our  guide,  spoke  to  the  head  man,  and  he  directed  the 
people  to  collect  near  his  house.  About  100  soon  assembled,  and  when 
we  had  explained  to  them  in  few  words,  the  object  of  our  visit,  we 
requested  them  to  sit  down,  and  listen  to  the  tidings  we  had  brought. 
They  immediately  obeyed. 

We  sang  a  hymn  in  their  language,  after  which  an  address  was 
given,  and  the  service  concluded  in  the  usual  manner.  As  soon  as 
it  was  finished,  they  began  to  talk  about  what  we  had  told  them. 
Some  said  it  was  very  good:  they  had  never  heard  before  of  a  God 
who  had  sent  his  Son  to  save  men.  Others  said,  it  was  very  well 
for  the  haore  (foreigners)  to  believe  it,  but  Tane,  Bono,  Tanaroa, 
and  Tu,  were  the  gods  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders. 

Makoa,  who  was  a  chief  speaker  among  them  on  such  occasions, 
ssi.i<l  they  must  all  attend  to  the  new  word,  must  forsake  thieving 
and   drunkenness,   infanticide    and   murder,    and   do   no   work   on   the 


212 

la  tabu,  (day  sacred;)  adding,  at  the  same  time,  that  the  king  had 
received  the  palapala,  books,  &c.  and  went  to  church  on  the  sacred 
day,  as  did  also  Kuakini,  the  governor. 

The  head  man  brought  us  some  ripe  plantains,  of  which  we  ate  a 
few,  and  then  proceeded  on  our  way,  leaving  them  busy  in  conversa- 
tion about  the  news  they  had  heard;  which,  in  all  probability,  were 
"strange  things"  to  their  ears. 

AT  KEHENA — AN  INGENIOUS  LANDING  DEVICE. 

After  travelling  a  mile  and  a  half  along  the  shore,  we  came  to 
Kehena,  a  populous  village;  the  people  seemed,  from  the  number  of 
their  canoes,  nets,  &c.  to  be  much  engaged  in  fishing.  Their  con- 
trivance for  launching  and  landing  their  canoes,  was  curious  and 
singular. 

The  bold  coast  is  formed  of  perpendicular  or  overhanging  rocks, 
from  forty  to  sixty  feet  high,  against  which,  this  being  the  wind- 
ward part  of  the  island,  the  swell  beats  violently. 

In  one  place,  where  there  were  a  few  low  rocks  about  thirty  feet 
from  the  shore,  they  had  erected  a  kind  of  ladder.  Two  long  poles, 
one  tied  to  the  end  of  the  other,  reached  from  these  rocks  to  the 
top  of  the  cliffs.  Two  other  poles,  tied  together  in  the  same  manner, 
were  fixed  parallel  to  the  first  two,  and  about  four  or  five  feet  distant 
from  them.  Strong  sticks,  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  were  laid  across 
these  at  right  angles,  and  about  two  or  three  inches  apart,  which 
being  fastened  to  the  long  poles  with  ie,  (the  tough  fibrous  roots  of  a 
climbing  sort  of  plant,  which  they  find  in  the  woods,)  formed  the 
steps  of  this  ingenious  and  useful  ladder. 

LANDING   OF    THE    CANOES. 

The  canoes  of  the  place  were  light  and  small,  seldom  carrying  more 
than  one  man  in  each.  A  number  were  just  landing,  as  we  arrived  at 
the  place.  Two  men  went  down,  and  stood  close  to  the  water's  edge, 
on  the  leeward  or  southern  side  of  the  rock. 

The  canoes  were  paddled  up  one  at  a  time.  The  person  in  each, 
then  watching  a  convenient  opportunity,  rowed  swiftly  to  shore,  when 
the  rolling  billow  carried  the  canoe  upon  the  rock,  and  it  was  seized 
by  two  men  who  stood  there  to  receive  it.  At  the  same  instant  that  it 
was  grasped  on  each  side  by  the  men  on  the  rock,  the  one  in  the  canoe, 
who  steered  it,  jumped  into  the  sea,  swam  to  the  shore,  and  assisted 
them  in  carrying  it  up  the  ladder  to  the  top  of  the  cliff,  where'  they 
placed  it  upon  curiously  carved  stools,  made  of  the  wood  of  the 
erythrina,  and  returned  to  the  rock  to  await  the  arrival  of  another 
canoe.  In  this  way  five  or  six  were  brought  up  while  we  stood 
looking  at  them,  and  I  took  a  sketch  of  their  useful  contrivance. 


213 

We  then  walked  to  the  house  of  the  head  man,  which  was  large,  and 
contained  several  families.  A  number  of  people  soon  gathered  round 
us;  and  when  they  had  expressed  their  wishes  to  hear  what  we  had 
to  say,  I  addressed  them  on  the  subject  of  our  religion. 

HOSPITABLE  RECEPTION  AT  KAMAILI. 

Leaving  Kehena,  we  walked  on  to  Kamaili,  a  pleasant  village, 
standing  in  a  gently  sloping  valley,  cultivated  and  shaded  by  some 
large  cocoa-nut  trees.  Here  we  stopped  to  take  breakfast,  having 
travelled  about  four  hours  and  a  half.  The  hospitable  inhabitants,  at 
the  request  of  our  guide,  soon  brought  us  some  fresh  fish,  a  nice  pig, 
with  potatoes  and  taro,  and  a  calabash  of  good  water. 

The  people  who  were  not  employed  on  their  plantations,  or  in 
fishing,  afterwards  assembled,  and  were  addressed  from  Psalm  lxvii.  7. 
Considerable  conversation  followed,  and  they  detained  us  some  time 
to  answer  their  questions,  or  to  explain  more  fully  the  things  that 
had  been  spoken.  It  was  truly  gratifying  to  notice  the  eagerness  with 
which  they  proposed  their  inquiries.  After  spending  about  half  an 
hour  in  endeavouring  to  satisfy  200  or  300  of  them,  we  took  leave, 
and  pursued  our  journey. 

Our  path  from  Kaimu  had  been  smooth  and  pleasant,  but  shortly 
after  leaving  Kamaili,  we  passed  a  very  rugged  tract  of  lava  nearly 
four  miles  across.  The  lava  seemed  as  if  broken  to  pieces  as  it  cooled; 
it  had  continued  to  roll  on  like  a  stream  of  large  scoria,  or  cinders. 
Our  progress  across  it  was  slow  and  fatiguing. 

On  our  way,  our  guide  pointed  out  Karepa,  an  ancient  heiau,  for- 
merly dedicated  to  Tu  and  Eono,  and  built  in  the  days  of  Teavemau- 
hiri,  or  Tanakini,  king  of  this  part  of  the  island.  We  could  not  learn 
whether  this  was  the  heiau  of  Rono,  in  which  the  bones  of  Captain 
Cook  were  deposited,  and  worshipped. 

MEETING  THE   NATIVES  AT   OPIHIKAO. 

About  half-past  one,  we  arrived  at  Opihikao,  another  populous  vil- 
lage, situated  within  a  short  distance  of  the  sea.  The  head  man,  Ka- 
raikoa,  brought  out  a  mat,  spread  it  under  the  umbrageous  shade  of  a 
kou-tree  in  front  of  his  door,  and  invited  us  to  sit  down  and  rest,  as 
the  sun  was  vertical,  and  travelling  laborious.  We  seated  ourselves 
beside  him,  and,  so  soon  as  he  learned  from  Maltoa  the  nature  of  our 
errand,  he  sent  of  his  own  accord,  and  collected  the  people  to  hear 
what  we  had  to  say  to  them. 

When  they  had  assembled,  we  stood  up  and  sung  a  hymn,  after 
which  one  of  our  number  preached  to  them  frrom  Job  xxi.  15.  It 
was  undoubtedly  the  first  time  most,  if  not  all  of  them,  tad  attended  a 
meeting  of  the   kind;    and    the   preacher   was   frequently   interrupted 


214 

by  several,  who  exclaimed,  "Owau  knhi  e  malama  ia  Jehova, — e  ake 
au  i  ora  ia  Jesu  Kraist:"  I  am  one  that  will  serve  Jehovah; — I 
desire  to  be  saved  by  Jesus  Christ. 

We  invited  them  to  ask  us  any  question  respecting  what  they  had 
heard;  and,  in  answering  those  they  proposed,  we  spent  some  time 
after  the  service  was  concluded. 

THROUGH  KAUAEA  AND  MALAMA — RECENT  ERUPTION  THERE. 

We  then  proceeded  about  two  miles,  principally  through  cultivated 
grounds,  to  Kauaea.  About  300  people,  excited  by  curiosity,  soon  col- 
lected around  us,  to  whom  Mr.  Thurston  preached. 

We  afterwards  sat  down  and  talked  with  them,  and  then  resumed 
our  journey  through  the  district  of  Malama,  the  inland  part  of  which 
was  inundated  by  a  volcanic  eruption  about  thirty  years  since.  The 
part  over  which  we  passed,  being  nearer  the  sea  than  that  which 
the  lava  had  overflowed,  was  covered  with  soil,  and  smiling  with 
verdure. 

AT    KEAHIALAKA. 

Near  five  p.  m.  we  reached  Keahialaka,  the  residence  of  Kinao, 
chief  or  governor  of  Puna.  We  found  him  lying  on  a  couch  of 
sickness,  and  felt  anxious  to  administer  to  his  comfort,  yet  did  not 
like  at  so  early  an  hour  to  halt  altogether  for  the  night.  I  there- 
fore remained  with  the  sick  chief,  while  Messrs.  Thurston  and 
Bishop  went  on  to  a  village  at  the  east  point,  about  two  miles  distant. 

When  they  reached  Pualaa,  the  above-mentioned  village,  they  were 
kindly  welcomed  by  the  head  man,  who  soon  had  the  people  of  the 
plaoe  collected  at  their  request,  and  to  them  Mr.  Thurston  proclaimed 
the  news  of  salvation  through  Jesus  Christ.  The  chief  furnished  the 
travellers  with  a  hospitable  supper  and  comfortable  lodgings. 

DISCUSSIONS    WITH    A    SICK    CHIEF. 

Just  before  the  setting  of  the  sun,  I  preached  to  the  people  at  the 
village  where  I  was  staying,  and  spent  the  evening  with  the  chief, 
who  was  afflicted  with  a  pulmonary  complaint,  and  almost  reduced  to  a 
skeleton,  earnestly  recommending  him  to  fly  to  Jesus,  the  great 
physician  of  souls.  He  seemed  at  first  much  attached  to  the  super- 
stitions of  his  ancestors,  said  he  had  performed  every  ceremony  that 
he  thought  likely  to  be  of  any  avail,  and  would  do  any  thing  to  live; 
but  added,  E  make  paha  auanei,  Perhaps  I  must  soon  die. 

The  love  of  the  Saviour,  and  his  suitableness  to  the  situation  of  the 
poor  chief,  were  pointed  out,  and  he  was  requested  rather  to  seek 
unto  Him  for  the  salvation  of  his  soul,  than  to  priests,  and  the  incan- 
tations of  sorcerers,  for  the  prolongation   of  his  mortal  life,  which, 


215 

although  of  infinitely  less  moment  than  the  well-being  of  his  soul, 
was  yet  entirely  beyond  their  power.  He  listened  attentively,  and  at 
a  late  hour  requested  me  to  pray  for  him  to  Jesus  Christ.  The 
family  collected  during  the  time  of  prayer,  at  the  close  of  which  the 
chief  lay  down  on  his  mat,  but  said  he  could  not  sleep. 

We  were  fatigued  with  the  labours  of  the  day,  though  we  had  not 
travelled  so  far  as  usual.  The  country  had  been  much  more  populous 
than  any  we  had  passed  since  leaving  Kona,  and  we  felt  thankful 
for  the  opportunities  that  we  had  this  day  enjoyed  of  speaking  to 
so  many  about  those  things  which  concern  their  everlasting  peace. 
Maj'  the  Holy  Spirit  water  the  seed  this  day  sown! 

Messrs.  Thurston  and  Bishop  conducted  the  usual  worship  with  the 
people,  who,  at  an  early  hour  the  next  morning,  crowded  the  house 
where  they  had  lodged, — I  spent  some  time  in  endeavoring  to  inform 
the  dark  mind  of  the  dying  chief,  on  points  of  the  last  importance, 
again  directed  him  to  that  compassionate  Saviour,  who  invites  all  to 
come  unto  him,  receives  even  those  who  apply  at  the  eleventh  hour, 
and  is  able  to  save  to  the  uttermost  those  who  trust  in  his  mercy. 
I  afterwards  prayed  with  him  and  his  family,  and  then  bade  them 
farewell. 

SUPERSTITIONS    OF    THE    NATIVES    CONCERNING    SICKNESS. 

The  situation  of  Kinao  was  affecting.  He  appeared  in  the  midst  of 
his  days,  probably  not  more  than  thirty  or  forty  years  of  age;  and 
though  formerly  robust  and  healthy,  he  was  now  pale,  emaciated, 
and  reduced  almost  to  a  skeleton.  Enveloped  in  all  the  darkness  of 
paganism,  and  perhaps  agitated  with  fearful  uncertainties  respecting 
a  future  state,  he  clung  eagerly  to  life,  yet  seemed  to  feel  a  convic- 
tion of  his  approaching  end  daily  increasing.  Like  his  countrymen  in 
general,  he  supposed  his  disease  inflicted  in  consequence  of  the  prayers 
of  some  malicious  enemy,  or  the  vindictive  displeasure  of  the  gods 
of  his  country;  hence  he  had  consulted  the  sorcerers,  expended  on 
them  his  property,  and  attended  to  all  their  injunctions,  if  by  any 
means  his  life  might  be  spared. 

The  popular  superstitions  of  the  islanders  lead  them  to  imagine, 
that  an  individual  who  possesses  the  means  of  employing  a  sorcerer, 
may  afflict  with  painful  disease,  and  even  occasion  the  death  of,  any 
person  against  whom  he  may  indulge  feelings  of  hatred  or  revenge. 

They  also  believe  that  the  sorcerers,  by  certain  incantations,  can 
discover  the  author  or  cause  of  the  disease,  and  refer  it  back  to  the 
party  with  whom  it  originated.  So  prevalent  are  these  aotions,  that 
the  people  generally  believe  every  individual,  who  does  not  meet  his 
death  by  some  act  of  violence,  is  destroyed  by  the  immediate  power 
of  an  unpropitious  deity,  l>y  poison,  or  the  incantations  of  the  sorcer- 
ers employed  by  some  cruel  enemy. 


216 
TOWERS  AND  CEREMONIES  OF  THE  SORCERERS. 

This  belief  gives  the  sorcerers  great  influence  among  the  middling 
and  lower  orders;  and  in  times  of  protracted  sickness,  their  aid  is 
almost  invariably  sought  by  all  who  can  procure  a  dog  and  a  fowl 
for  the  sacrifice,  and  a  piece  or  two  of  tapa  as  a  fee  for  the  priest. 

A  dog  and  a  fowl  are  all  that  are  necessary  for  the  ceremony; 
but  the  offerings  to  the  god,  and  the  fees  to  the  priest,  are  regulated 
according  to  the  wealth  or  rank  of  the  individuals  on  whose  behalf 
the  aid  of  sorcery  is  employed. 

The  ceremonies  performed  are  various;  but  the  most  general  is  the 
kuni  ahi,  broiling  fire,  a  kind  of  anaana,  or  sorcery,  used  to  discover 
the  person  whose  incantation  has  induced  the  illness  of  the  party  for 
whom  it  is  performed. 

When  a  chief  wishes  to  resort  to  it,  he  sends  for  a  priest,  who,  on 
his  arrival,  receives  a  number  of  hogs,  dogs,  and  fowls,  together  with 
several  bundles  of  tapa. 

Before  he  commences  any  of  his  operations,  all  persons,  except 
the  parties  immediately  concerned,  retire  from  the  house,  which  the 
priest  tabu's,  and  prohibits  strangers  from  entering. 

He  then  kindles  a  small  fire  somewhere  near  the  couch  of  the  in- 
valid, and  covers  it  with  stones.  This  being  done,  he  kills  one  of 
the  dogs  by  strangling  it,  and  cuts  off  the  head  of  one  of  the  fowls, 
muttering  all  the  while  his  prayers  to  the  god  he  invokes. 

INCANTATIONS  OF  THE  SORCERERS. 

The  dog,  fowl,  and  pig,  if  there  be  one,  are  then  cut  open,  em- 
bowelled,  and  laid  on  the  heated  stones,  the  priest  continuing  hia 
incantations,  and  watching,  at  the  same  time,  the  offerings  broiling 
on  the  fire. 

A  small  part  only  of  these  offerings  are  eaten  by  the  priest,  the 
rest  remain  on  the  fire  until  consumed,  when  the  priest  lies  down 
to  sleep;  and  if  his  prayers  are  answered,  he  informs  the  poor 
sufferer,  on  awaking,  who  or  what  is  the  cause  of  his  sickness. 

Additional  presents  are  then  made  to  the  god,  and  other  prayers 
offered,  that  the  sickness  may  seize  the  person  whose  incantations  in 
the  first  instance  caused  it,  or,  if  in  consequence  of  any  delinquency 
towards  the  god  on  the  part  of  the  sufferer,  that  he  would  abate  his 
anger,  and  remove  the  disease. 

But  if,  during  his  sleep,  the  priest  has  no  revelation  or  dream,  he 
informs  his  employers,  on  awaking,  that  he  has  not  succeeded,  and 
that  another  kuni  ahi  must  be  prepared,  before  he  can  satisfy  them 
respecting  the  cause  of  the  sickness.  On  such  occasions  the  unsuc- 
cessful priest  is  often  dismissed,  and  another  sent  for,  to  try  his  in- 
fluence with  the  god. 


217 

Different  priests  employ  different  prayers  or  incantations,  and  are 
careful  to  keep  the  knowledge  of  them  confined  to  their  families,  as 
each  one  supposes,  or  wishes  the  people  to  think,  his  own  form  the 
best;  hence  we  have  often  heard  the  natives,  when  talking  on  the 
subject,  say,  "He  pule  mana  ko  me,"  A  powerful  prayer  has  such 
a  one: — and  the  priest  or  sorcerer  who  is  supposed  to  have  most  in- 
fluence with  the  god,  is  most  frequently  employed  by  the  people,  and 
hence  derives  the  greatest  emoluments  from  his  profession. 

Though  Uri  is  the  principal  god  of  the  sorcerers,  each  tribe  has  its 
respective  deities  for  these  occasions.  Thus  the  poor  deluded  people 
are  led  to  imagine  that  the  beings  they  worship  are  continually 
exerting  their  power  against  each  other;  or  that  the  same  god  who, 
when  a  small  offering  only  was  presented,  would  allow  sickness  to 
continue  till  death  should  destroy  the  victim  of  his  displeasure,  would, 
for  a  larger  offering,  restrain  his  anger  and  withdraw  the  disease. 

The  sorcerers  were  a  distinct  class  among  the  priests  of  the  island, 
and  their  art  appears  to  claim  equal  antiquity  with  the  other  parts 
of  that  cruel  system  of  idolatry  by  which  the  people  have  been  so 
long  oppressed;  and  though  it  has  survived  the  destruction  of  the 
national  idolatry,  and  is  still  practised  by  many,  it  is  entirely  dis- 
continued by  the  principal  chiefs  in  every  island,  and  by  all  who 
attend  to  Christian  instruction. 

AT  PUALAA— DISCUSSION  WITH  THREE   PRIESTS. 

It  was  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  7th  when  I  joined 
Messrs.  Thurston  and  Bishop  at  Pualaa,  where  we  took  breakfast, 
and  afterwards  spent  the  forenoon  in  conversation  with  the  natives 
who  thronged  around  us. 

Two  or  three  old  men,  whom  we  afterwards  learned  were  priests, 
seemed  to  dispute  what  we  said  about  Jehovah's  being  the  only  true 
God,  and  the  Christian  the  only  true  religion.  They  said  they  thought 
their  tao  (traditions)  respecting  Tu,  Tanaroa,  Eono,  or  Orono,  and 
Tairi,  were  as  authentic  as  the  accounts  in  our  book,  though  ours, 
from  the  circumstance  of  their  being  written,  or,  as  they  expressed 
it,  "hana  paia  i  ka  palapala, "  (made  fast  on  the  paper,)  were  bet- 
ter preserved,  and  more  akaaka,  clear,  or  generally  intelligible. 

To  this  we  replied  at  some  length,  after  which  the  old  men  ceased 
to  object,  but  continued  to  withhold  their  assent.  Numbers  sat 
around,  and  seemed  interested  in  the  discussion.  We  continued 
talking  to  them  on  the  subject  of  their  traditions,  one  of  which  we 
wrote  down  as  they  repeated  it. 

LAVA  FLOW  DURING  TIME  OF  CAPT.  COOK. 

About  half-past  eleven  we  took  leave  of  them,  and  directed  our 
way    across    the    eastern    point.      A    most    beautiful    and    romantic 


218 

landscape  presented  itself  on  our  left,  as  we  travelled  out  of  Pualaa. 
The  lava  was  covered  with  a  tolerably  thick  layer  of  soil,  and  the 
verdant  plain,  extending  several  miles  towards  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, was  agreeably  diversified  by  groups  of  picturesque  hills,  origi- 
nally craters,  but  now  clothed  with  -grass,  and  ornamented  with 
chimps  of  trees. 

The  natives  informed  us,  that  three  of  these  groups,  Honuaura, 
Malama,  and  Mariu,  being  contiguous,  and  joined  at  their  base, 
arrested  the  progress  of  an  immense  torrent  of  lava,  which,  in  the 
days  of  Taraiopu,  the  friend  of  Captain  Cook,  inundated  all  the 
country  beyond  them.  We  soon  left  this  cheerful  scenery,  and  en- 
tered a  rugged  tract  of  lava,  over  which  we  continued  our  way 
till  about  two  p.  m.,  when  we  reached  Kapoho. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  KAPOHO  AND  GREEN  LAKE  CRATER. 

A  cluster,  apparently  of  hills  three  or  four  miles  round,  and  as 
many  hundred  feet  high,  with  deep  indented  sides,  overhung  with 
trees,  and  clothed  with  herbage,  standing  in  the  midst  of  the  barren 
plain  of  lava,  attracted  our  attention. 

We  walked  through  the  gardens  that  encircled  its  base,  till  we 
reached  the  S.  E.  side,  where  it  was  much  lower  than  on  the  northern 
parts.  Here  we  ascended  what  appeared  to  us  to  be  one  of  the  hills, 
and,  on  reaching  the  summit,  were  agreeably  surprised  to  behold  a 
charming  valley  opening  before  us.  It  was  circular,  and  open 
towards  the  sea. 

The  outer  boundary  of  this  natural  amphitheatre  was  formed  by 
an  uneven  ridge  of  rocks,  covered  with  soil  and  vegetation.  Within 
these  there  was  a  smaller  circle  of  hills,  equally  verdant,  and  orna- 
mented with  trees.  The  sides  of  the  valley,  which  gradually  sloped 
from  the  foot  of  the  hills,  were  almost  entirely  laid  out  in  plantations, 
and  enlivened  by  the  cottages  of  their  proprietors. 

In  the  centre  was  an  oval  hollow,  about  half  a  mile  cross,  and 
probably  two  hundred  feet  deep,  at  the  bottom  of  which  was  a  beau- 
tiful lake  of  brackish  water,  whose  margin  was  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation,  planted  with  taro,  bananas,  and  sugar-cane. 

The  steep  perpendicular  rocks,  forming  the  sides  of  the  hollow, 
were  adorned  with  tufts  of  grass,  or  blooming  pendulous  plants,  while, 
along  the  narrow  and  verdant  border  of  the  lake  at  the  bottom,  the 
bread-fruit,  the  kukui,  and  the  ohia  trees,  appeared,  with  now  and 
then  a  lowly  native  hut  standing  beneath  their  shade. 

A  SCENE  OP  BEAUTY. 

We  walked  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  rocks  that  form  the  side  of  the 
hollow,  where  we  viewed  with  pleasure  this  singularly  beautiful  scene. 


219 

The  placid  surface  of  the  lake,  disturbed  only  by  the  boys  and  girls 
diving  and  sporting  in  its  waters,  the  serpentine  walks  among  the 
luxuriant  gardens  along  its  margin,  the  tranquil  occupations  of  the  in- 
habitants, some  weaving  mats,  others  walking  cheerfully  up  and  down 
the  winding  path  among  the  steep  rocks,  the  sound  of  the  cloth-beat- 
ing mallet  from  several  directions,  and  the  smiling  gaiety  of  the 
whole,  contrasted  strongly  with  the  panorama  we  had  recently  beheld 
at  Kirauea.  Yet  we  felt  persuaded,  that  this  now  cheerful  spot 
had  once  presented  a  similar  spectacle,  less  extended,  but  equally 
grand  and  appalling. 

TRADITIONS  OF  THE  NATIVES  CONCERNING  KAPOHO. 

The  traditions  of  the  people  informed  us,  that  the  valley  itself 
was  originally  a  crater,  the  indented  rocks  along  the  outer  ridge 
forming  its  rim,  and  the  opening  towards  the  sea  its  mouth.  But  had 
tradition  been  silent,  the  volcanic  nature  of  the  rocks,  which  were 
basaltic,  or  of  compact  lava  in  some  parts  and  cellular  in  others,  the 
structure  of  the  large  basin  in  which  we  were  standing,  and  the  deep 
hollow  in  the  centre  which  we  were  viewing,  would  have  carried 
conviction  to  the  mind  of  every  beholder,  that  it  had  once  been  the 
seat  of  volcanic  fires. 

We  asked  several  natives  of  the  place,  if  they  had  any  account  of 
the  king  in  whose  reign  it  had  burned;  or  if  they  knew  any  songs 
or  traditions,  in  which  it  was  stated  how  many  kings  had  reigned  in 
Hawaii,  or  how  many  chiefs  had  governed  Puna,  either  since  it  first 
broke  out,  or  since  it  became  extinct;  but  they  could  give  us  no  in- 
formation on  these  subjects. 

They  told  us  the  name  of  the  place  was  Kapoho  (the  sunken  in,) 
and  of  the  lake,  Ka  wai  a  Pele  (the  water  of  Pele). 

The  saltness  of  the  water  in  this  extinguished  volcano  proves  the 
connexion  of  the  lake  with  the  sea,  from  which  it  is  about  a  mile 
distant;  but  we  could  not  learn  that  it  was  at  all  affected  by  the 
rising  or  falling  of  the  tides. 

GAME  OP  HORUA,   OR   SLEDDING,   DESCRIBED. 

The  natives  also  told  us  that  it  was  one  of  the  places  from  which 
the  volcanic  goddess  threw  rocks  and  lavn  utter  Kahavari,  for  refus- 
ing his  papa,  or  sledge,  when  playing  at  horua. 

The  horua  has  for  many  generations  been  a  popular  amusement 
throughout  the  Sandwich  [elands,  and  is  still  practised  Ln  several 
places.  It  consists  in  sliding  down  a  hill  OH  a  narrow  sledge,  and 
those  who,  by  strength  or  skill  in  balancing  themselves,  slide  farthest, 
are  considered  victorious. 


220 

The  papa,  or  sledge,  is  composed  of  two  narrow  runners,  from  seven 
to  twelve  or  eighteen  feet  long,  two  or  three  inches  deep,  highly 
polished,  and  at  the  foremost  end  tapering  off  from  the  under  side 
to  a  point  at  the  upper  edge.  These  two  runners  are  fastened  to- 
gether by  a  number  of  short  pieces  of  wood  laid  horizontally  across. 
To  the  upper  edge  of  these  short  pieces  two  long  tough  sticks  are 
fastened,  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  cross  pieces,  and  about 
five  or  six  inches  apart. 

Sometimes  a  narrow  piece  of  matting  is  fastened  over  the  whole 
upper  surface,  except  three  or  four  feet  at  the  foremost  end,  though 
in  general  only  a  small  part  for  the  breast  to  rest  on  is  covered. 

At  the  foremost  end  there  is  a  space  of  about  two  inches  between 
the  runners,  but  they  widen  gradually  towards  the  hinder  part,  where 
they  are  distant  from  each  other  four  or  five  inches. 

The  person  about  to  slide  grasps  the  small  side-stick  firmly  with  his 
right  hand,  somewhere  about  the  middle,  runs  a  few  yards  to  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  or  starting-place,  where  he  grasps  it  with  his  left 
hand,  and  at  the  same  time  with  all  his  strength  throwing  himself 
forward,  falls  flat  upon  it,  and  slides  down  the  hill,  his  hands  re- 
taining their  hold  of  the  side-sticks,  and  his  feet  being  fixed  against 
the  hindermost  cross-piece  of  the  sledge. 

Much  practice  and  address  are  necessary,  to  assume  and  keep  an 
even  balance  on  so  narrow  a  vehicle,  yet  a  man  accustomed  to  the 
sport  will  throw  himself,  with  velocity  and  apparent  ease,  150  or 
200  yards  down  the  side  of  a  gradually  sloping  hill. 

GAME   OP   HOLUA   AT    KULA. 

About  three  o'clock  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  soon  reached 
Kula,  a  romantic  spot,  where  Kahavari  took  leave  of  his  sister. 

The  hill  on  which  he  was  sliding  when  he  incurred  the  displeasure 
of  the  terrible  goddess,  the  spot  where  he  rested,  and  first  saw  her 
pursuing  him,  were  visible;  and  the  traditionary  story  of  his  encoun- 
ter with  Pele  is  so  interesting,  that  we  think  we  shall  be  pardoned 
for  inserting  it. 

In  the  reign  of  Keariikukii,  an  ancient  king  of  Hawaii,  Kahavari, 
chief  of  Puna,  and  one  of  his  punahele,  (favourite  companions,)  went 
one  day  to  amuse  themselves  at  the  horua  on  the  sloping  side  of  a 
hill,  which  is  still  called  Ka  horua-ana  o  Kahavari,  (the  sliding  place 
of  Kahavari). 

Vast  numbers  of  the  people  collected  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  to 
witness  the  game;  and  a  company  of  musicians  and  dancers  repaired 
to  the  spot,  to  add  to  the  amusement  of  the  spectators.  The  buskined 
youths  had  begun  their  dance,  and,  amidst  the  sound  of  the  drums 
and  the  songs  of  the  musicians,  the  horua  commenced  between  Kaha- 
vari and  his  favourite. 


221 

KAHAVARI' S    ADVENTURE    WITH    PELE. 

Pele,  the  goddess  of  the  volcano,  came  down  from  Kirauea  to  wit- 
ness the  sport. 

She  stood  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  in  the  form  of  a  woman,  and  chal- 
lenged Kahavari  to  slide  with  her.  He  accepted  the  offer,  and  they 
set  off  together  down  the  hill.  Pele,  less  acquainted  with  the  art  of 
balancing  herself  on  the  narrow  sledge  than  her  rival,  was  beaten, 
and  Kahavari  was  applauded  by  the  spectators  as  he  returned  up  the 
side  of  the  hill. 

Before  they  started  again,  Pele  asked  him  to  give  her  his  papa. 
He,  supposing  from  her  appearance  that  she  was  no  more  than  a 
native  woman,  said,  Aore,  no!  "Are  you  my  wife,  that  you  should 
obtain  my  sledge?"  and,  as  if  impatient  at  being  delayed,  adjusted 
his  papa,  ran  a  few  yards  to  take  a  spring,  and  then,  with  all  his 
strength,  threw  himself  upon  it,  and  shot  down  the  hill. 

PELE  MAKES  A  LAVA  FLOW. 

Pele,  incensed  at  his  answer,  stamped  on  the  ground,  and  an  earth- 
quake followed,  which  rent  the  hill  in  sunder.  She  called,  and  fire 
and  liquid  lava  arose,  and,  assuming  her  supernatural  form,  with 
these  irresistible  ministers  of  vengeance,  she  followed  down  the  hill. 

When  Kahavari  reached  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  he  arose,  and,  on 
looking  behind,  saw  Pele,  accompanied  by  thunder  and  lightning, 
earthquake,  and  streams  of  burning  lava,  closely  pursuing  him.  He 
took  up  his  broad  spear,  which  he  had  stuck  in  the  ground  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  game,  and,  accompanied  by  his  friend,  fled  for  his  life. 

The  musicians,  dancers,  and  crowds  of  spectators,  were  instantly 
buried  beneath  the  fiery  torrent,  which  bearing  on  its  foremost  wave 
the  enraged  goddess,  continued  to  pursue  Kahavari  and  his  friend. 

They  ran  till  they  came  to  an  eminence,  called  Buukea.  Here  Kaha- 
vari threw  off  his  tuiraii,  cloak  of  netted  ti  leaves,  and  proceeded 
towards  his  house,  which  stood  near  the  shore. 

KAHAVARI  ABANDONS   MOTHER,    WIFE   AND   CHILDREN. 

He  met  his  favourite  hog  Aroipuaa,  saluted  him  by  touching  noses, 
and  ran  to  the  house  of  his  mother  who  lived  at  Kukii,  saluted  her 
by  touching  noses,  and  said,  Aroha  ino  oe,  eia  ihonei  paha  oe  e  make 
ai,  ke  ai  mainei  Pele:  Compassion  great  to  you,  close  here  perhaps  is 
your  death;  Pele  comes  devouring. 

Leaving  her,  he  met  his  wife,  Kanakawahine.  He  saluted  her.  The 
burning  torrent  approached,  and  she  said,  "Stay  with  me  here,  and 
let  us  die  together."     He  said,  "No;  I  go,  I  go." 

He  then  saluted  his  two  children  Paupouru  and  EEaohe,  and  said, 
"Ke  ue  nei  au  ia  orua,"  I  grieve  for  you  two. 


222 

The  lava  rolled  near,  and  he  ran  till  a  deep  chasm  arrested  his 
progress.  He  laid  down  his  spear,  and  on  it  walked  safely  over.  His 
friend  called  out  for  his  help;  he  held  out  his  spear  over  the  chasm; 
his  companion  took  hold   of  it,   and  he  drew  him   securely  over. 

KAHAVARI    ESCAPES. 

By  this  time  Pele  was  coming  down  the  chasm  with  accelerated 
motion.     He  ran  till  he  reached  the  place  where  we  were  sitting. 

Here  he  met  his  sister  Koae,  but  had  only  time  to  say,  A.roha  oe! 
"Alas  for  you!"  and  then  ran  on  to  the  sea-shore.  His  younger 
brother  had  just  landed  from  his  fishing  canoe,  and  had  hastened  to 
his  house  to  provide  for  the  safety  of  his  family,  when  Kahavari 
arrived;  he  and  his  friend  leaped  into  the  canoe,  and  with  his  broad 
spear  paddled  out  to  sea. 

Pele  perceiving  his  escape,  ran  to  the  shore,  and  hurled  after  him, 
with  prodigious  force,  huge  stones  and  fragments  of  rock,  which  fell 
thickly  around,  but  did  not  strike  his  canoe. 

A   SPECIMEN  OF  HAWAIIAN  TRADITIONS. 

When  they  had  paddled  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  the  Kumu- 
kahi  (east  wind)  sprung  up.  He  fixed  his  broad  spear  upright  in  the 
canoe,  which  answering  the  double  purpose  of  mast  and  sail,  he  soon 
reached  the  island  of  Maui.  Here  they  rested  one  night,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Eanai.  On  the  day  following  he  removed  to  Morokai,  and 
from  thence  to  Oahu,  the  abode  of  Koronohairaau  his  father,  and 
Kanewahinekeaho  his  sister,  to  whom  he  related  his  disastrous  perils, 
and  with  whom  he  took  up  his  permanent  abode. 

The  above  tale  is  a  tolerable  specimen  of  most  of  their  traditions, 
though  it  is  among  the  least  marvellous  of  the  many  fabulous  stories 
we  have  met  with,  and  the  truth  may  easily  be  separated  from  the 
fiction. 

A  sudden  and  unexpected  eruption  of  a  volcano,  when  a  chief  and 
his  people   were  playing  at   horua,  is   probably   its   only   foundation. 

ILLUSTRATION  OF  LOW  STATUS  OF  WOMEN. 

It  exhibits,  however,  much  of  the  general  character  of  the  people, 
the  low  estimation  in  which  the  females  were  held,  and  the  wretched 
state  of  their  social  and  domestic  society,  in  which  those  fond  at- 
tachments, that  in  civilized  and  Christian  life  endear  the  different 
members  of  kindred  and  family  to  each  other,  appear  scarcely  to  have 
existed. 

The  absence  of  relative  affections  shewn  by  Kahavari,  who,  not- 
withstanding the  entreaties  of  his  wife,  could  leave  her,  his  children, 
his  mother,  and  his  sister,  to  certain  destruction,  meets  with  no  repre- 


223 

hension;  neither  is  any  censure  passed  on  his  unjust  seizure  of  the 
canoe  belonging  to  his  brother,  who  was  engaged  in  saving  his  own 
family,  while  his  adroitness  in  escaping  the  dreadful  calamity  of 
which  he  had  been  the  sole  cause,  is  applauded  in  terms  too  indelicate 
to  be  recorded. 

The  natives  pointed  out  a  number  of  rocks  in  the  sea,  which,  they 
said,  were  thrown  by  Pele  to  sink  the  canoe  in  which  Kahavari 
escaped. 

KAHAVARI' S    HILL — A    RUGGED    COUNTRY. 

After  travelling  a  short  distance,  we  saw  the  Bu  o  Kahavari,  (Hill 
of  Kahavari,)  the  place  where  he  stopped,  after  sliding  down-hill, 
and  perceiving  the  goddess  pursuing  him.  It  was  a  black  frowning 
crater,  about  100  feet  high,  with  a  deep  gap  in  its  rim  on  the  eastern 
side,  from  which  the  course  of  the  current  of  lava  could  be  distinctly 
traced. 

Our  way  now  lay  over  a  very  rugged  tract  of  country.  Sometimes 
for  a  mile  or  two  we  were  obliged  to  walk  along  on  the  top  of  a 
wall  four  feet  high  and  about  three  feet  wide,  formed  of  fragments 
of  lava  that  had  been  collected  from  the  surface  of  the  enclosures 
which  these  walls  surrounded.  We  were,  however,  cheered  with  a 
beautiful  prospect;  for  the  land,  which  rose  gradually  towards  the 
mountains,  a  few  miles  to  the  westward  of  us,  presented  an  almost 
enchanting  appearance. 

The  plain  was  covered  with  verdure;  and  as  we  advance,  a  woody 
eminence,  probably  some  ancient  crater,  frequently  arose  from  the 
gently  undulated  surface,  while  groups  of  hills,  clothed  with  trees 
of  various  foliage,  agreeably  diversified  the  scene. 

The  shore,  which  was  about  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  us,  was 
occasionally  lined  with  the  spiral  pandanus,  the  waving  cocoa-nut 
grove,  or  the  clustering  huts  of  the  natives. 

AT    KAHUWAI    AND    HONOLULU. 

At  half-past  four  we  reached  Kahuwai,  where  we  sat  down  and 
took  some  refreshment,  while  Makoa  was  engaged  in  bringing  the 
people  of  the  place  together.  About  one  hundred  and  fifty  assem- 
bled  around  the  door,  and   were  addressed. 

After  conversing  some  time,  we  travelled  in  an  inland  direction 
to  llonoruru,  a  small  village  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  wood,  where 
we  arrived  just  at  the  setting  of  the  sun. 

Whilst  the  kind  people  at  the  house  where  we  put  up  were  pre- 
paring our  supper,  we  sent  and  invited  the  inhabitants  of  the  nexi 
village  to  come  and  hear  the  word  we  had  to  speak  to  them.  They 
soon   arrived;    the   large  house   in    which    we    had   taken    up   our   lodg- 


224 

ings  was   filled,   and   a   discourse   was   delivered   from  John  xii.   46. 
"I  am  come  a  light  into  the  world,"  &c. 

RELIGIOUS    SERVICES    AT    WAIAKAHIULA. 

"We  afterwards  spent  a  hour  in  conversation  and  prayer  with  the 
people  of  these  sequestered  villages,  who  had  perhaps  never  before 
been  visited  by  foreigners,  and  then  lay  down  on  our  mats  to  rest. 

We  arose  early  on  the  8th,  and  Mr.  Thurston  held  morning  wor- 
ship with  the  friendly  people  of  the  place.  Although  I  had  been 
much  indisposed  through  the  night,  we  left  Honoruru  soon  after  six 
a.  m.  and,  travelling  slowly  towards  the  sea-shore,  reached  Waiaka- 
heula  about  eight,  where  I  was  obliged  to  stop,  and  lie  down  under 
the  shade  of  a  canoe-house  near  the  shore.  Messrs.  Thurston  and 
Bishop  walked  up  to  the  settlement  about  half  a  mile  inland,  where 
the  former  preached  to  the  people. 

BISHOP   TRAVELS   THROUGH   KEAAU   TO   WAIAKEA. 

"We  had  seen  the  eastern  division  of  Hiro  yesterday  afternoon;  aud 
Mr.  Bishop  hoping  to  reach  Waiakea  in  a  few  hours,  left  Mr.  Thurs- 
ton and  the  natives  with  me,  and  proceeded  thither.  He  was  much 
deceived  as  to  the  distance;  for  it  was  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
when  he  arrived  at  Kaau  (Keaau),  where  the  natives  tried  to  per- 
suade him  to  stay  till  morning,  as  they  did  not  think  he  could  reach 
"VVaiakea  before  night.  However,  he  kept  on  with  increased  speed, 
in  hopes  of  getting  at  least  a  sight  of  Waiakea  before  dark.  But  in 
this  he  was  disappointed,  for  the  sun  sunk  behind  Mouna-Kea,  and 
darkness  overshadowed  the  landscape  before  he  had  passed  the 
wilderness  of  Pandanus,  that  stretched  along  the  eastern  shore,  be- 
tween Kaau  and  Hiro.  He  began  to  think  of  resting  for  the  night 
beneath  the  shelter  of  the  surrounding  bushes;  but  the  path  becoming 
more  beaten,  indicated  his  approach  to  a  village.  Encouraged  by  this, 
he  pursued  his  way,  about  nine  in  the  evening  reached  Waiakea,  and 
entered  the  house  of  Maaro,  where  he  found  Messrs.  Goodrich  and 
Harwood,  by  whom  he  was  gladly  welcomed. 

Being  somewhat  recovered  by  noon,  I  was  able  to  proceed  with 
Mr.  Thurston.  The  country  was  populous,  but  the  houses  stood  singly, 
or  in  small  clusters,  generally  on  the  plantations,  which  were  scat- 
tered over  the  whole  country.  Grass  and  herbage  were  abundant, 
vegetation  in  many  places  luxuriant,  and  the  soil,  though  shallow,  was 
light  and  fertile. 

KEAAU   DESCRIBED. 

Soon  after  five  p.  m.  we  reached  Kaau,  the  last  village  in  the  divi- 
sion of  Puna.     It  was  extensive  and  populous,  abounding  with  well- 


225 

cultivated  plantations  of  taro,  sweet  potatoes,  and  sugar-cane;  and 
probably  owes  its  fertility  to  a  fine  rapid  stream  of  water,  which, 
descending  from  the  mountains,  runs  through  it  into  the  sea.  It  was 
the  second  stream  we  had  seen  on  the  island. 

Having  quenched  our  thirst,  we  passed  over  it  by  stepping  on  some 
large  stones,  and  directed  our  way  to  the  house  of  the  head  man, 
where  we  put  up  for  the  night.  He  was  absent  in  the  mountains, 
with  most  of  his  people,  and  Makoa  could  procure  us  no  provisions. 
We,  however,  succeeded  in  purchasing  a  fowl  and  some  potatoes,  and 
made  a  comfortable  supper.  While  our  boys  were  preparing  it,  Mr. 
Thurston  preached  to  a  considerable  number  of  people,  who  had  col- 
lected outside  of  the  house.  We  were  afterwards  joined  in  evening 
worship  by  the  family,  who  at  night  furnished  us  with  a  comfortable 
and  clean  mat  for  our  bed,  an  accommodation  we  did  not  always 
enjoy. 

Early  on  the  9th  the  house  was  crowded  with  natives,  and  a  little 
before  sun-rise  morning  worship  was  performed  as  usual. 

Some  of  the  natives  observed,  in  conversation,  "We  shall  never 
obtain  the  things  of  which  you  have  told  us,  for  we  are  a  wicked 
and  unbelieving  people." 

IEIE  ROOT  BASKETS — MAKING  FIRE  BY  FRICTION*. 

Before  we  left  the  place,  the  people  offered  for  sale  some  curious 
deep  oval  baskets,  with  covers,  made  of  the  fibrous  roots  of  ie.  We 
purchased  two,  intending  to  preserve  them  as  specimens  of  native  in- 
genuity. 

Leaving  the  village  of  Kaau,  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  after 
walking  between  two  and  three  hours,  stopped  in  the  midst  of  a 
thicket  to  rest,  and  prepare  some  breakfast. 

The  natives  produced  fire  by  rubbing  two  dry  sticks,  of  the  hibiscus 
tiliaceus,  together;  and  having  suspended  over  it  a  small  iron  pot,  in 
gipsy  style,  upon  three  sticks,  soon  prepared  our  food.  At  half-past 
ten  we  resumed  our  walk,  and  passing  about  two  miles  through  a 
wood  of  pretty  large  timber,  came  to  the  open  country  in  the  vicinity 
of  Waiakea.  At  one  p.  m.  we  reached  the  house  of  the  chief,  where 
we  were  welcomed  by  our  companions,  and  Maaro,  the  chief,  who, 
though  very  ill,  was  glad  to  see  us. 

LOCATED  AT  WAIAKEA. 

As  our  party  was  now  all  together,  am]  intended  to  spend  several 
days  in  his  district,  we  applied  to  liim  for  lod^in^s,  and  he  directed 
one  of  his  men  to  conduct  us  to  a  comfortable  lions. •  by  the  sea-aide, 
where  he  said  we  could  be  accommodated  so  long  as  we  should  find  it 
necessary  or  agreeable  to  stay.     We   removed   into  it.  ami   employed 

15 


226 

the  afternoon  in  narrating  the  incidents  of  our  respective  journeys, 
and  preparing  for  the  coming  Sabbath. 

It  -was  exactly  a  week  since  Messrs.  Goodrich  and  Harwood  had 
parted  from  us  at  Kirauea,  the  great  volcano.  They  had  travelled 
over  a  pleasant  and  not  uneven  country,  well  wooded,  and  abounding 
with  ohelos  and  strawberries,  till  they  reached  the  inland  district  of 
Ora  (Olaa).  They  purchased  a  hog  and  vegetables  of  the  people, 
and  had  the  hog  dressed  that  evening.  The  next  day  was  the  Sab- 
bath; Mr.  Goodrich  was  unable  to  preach  in  the  native  language.  The 
people  of  the  place,  however,  were  induced  to  abstain  from  working 
on  that  holy  day.  They  arrived  at  Waiakea  on  Wednesday  evening, 
and  ever  since  had  been  hospitably  entertained  by  Maaro. 

OLAA   DESCRIBED. 

In  company  with  Messrs.  Chamberlain,  Ely,  and  Blatchely,  I  have 
since  travelled  from  this  place  to  the  volcano,  and  during  that  jour- 
ney had  an  opportunity  of  preaching  at  most  of  the  villages  of  Ora. 

The  distance  is  probably  between  thirty  and  forty  miles,  and  the 
ascent  gradual  from  the  shore  to  the  volcano.  The  soil  is  generally 
rich  and  fertile,  and  the  face  of  the  country,  though  more  uniform 
than  some  parts  which  we  passed  over,  on  leaving  the  southern 
shore,  is  varied  by  occasional  undulations. 

We  travelled  through  two  or  three  extensive  woods,  in  which  were 
many  large  trees,  and  saw  also  several  pools  and  small  currents  of 
excellent  fresh  water. 

The  construction  of  the  swineherds'  houses  at  the  village  of  Ka-pu- 
o-ka-ahi,  (the  hill  of  the  fire,)  was  singular.  There  were  no  walls,  nor 
uprjght  posts  along  the  sides,  but  the  rafters  were  fixed  in  the  ground, 
united  at  the  top,  and  thatched  about  half  way  down. 

RASPBERRY,    OHELO   AND    STRAWBERRIES. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  village  we  also  saw  hedges  of  rasp- 
berry bushes,  which  the  natives  informed  us  bore  white  berries,  and 
were  abundant  in  the  mountains,  though  they  would  not  grow  nearer 
the  shore. 

Nine  or  ten  miles  from  the  sea,  we  met  with  ohelo  bushes,  and  after 
we  had  travelled  about  twenty  miles,  we  found  strawberry  plants  in 
abundance,  and  saw  several  in  blossom,  although  it  was  in  the  month 
of  January.  The  latter  plant,  as  well  as  the  raspberry,  is  found  in 
all  the  higher  parts  of  Hawaii,  which  induces  us  to  think  them  both 
indigenous. 

RELIGIOUS    INTEREST    BY    NATIVES. 

It  was  six  months  after  our  tour  along  the  coast,  that  we  passed 
through    the    villages    of    Ora,    and    we    were    gratified    to    find    that 


227 

several  of  the  people,  at  different  places,  had  received  some  general 
ideas  of  the  true  God,  from  the  reports  of  those  natives  who  had 
heard  us  preach  when  travelling  along  the  shore,  and  had  subse- 
quently visited  these  inland  districts. 

At  one  place  where  we  halted  for  the  night,  on  our  return  from 
the  volcano,  I  preached  to  the  people  in  the  evening,  and  natives 
afterwards  maintained  an  interesting  conversation  on  religious  sub- 
jects till  midnight. 

Among  other  things,  respecting  the  salvation  of  the  soul  through 
Jesus  Christ,  they  said,  "Our  forefathers,  from  time  immemorial,  and 
we,  ever  since  we  can  remember  any  thing,  have  been  seeking  the  ora 
roa  (enduring  life,)  or  a  state  in  which  we  should  not  die,  but  we 
have  never  found  it  yet;  perhaps  this  is  it,  of  which  you  are  telling 
us." 

NATIVES   COLLECTING   SANDAL   WOOD. 

During  the  same  journey  we  overtook  Maaro,  the  chief  of  Waiakea, 
and  three  or  four  hundred  people,  returning  with  sandal  wood,  which 
they  had  been  cutting  in  the  mountains.  Each  man  carried  two  or 
three  pieces,  from  four  to  six  feet  long,  and  about  three  inches  in 
diameter.  The  bark  and  sap  had  been  chipped  off  with  small  adzes, 
and  the  wood  appeared  lighter  in  colour  than  what  is  usually  sold  at 
Oahu,  probably  from  its  having  been  but  recently  cut  down. 

The  sandal  wood  is  the  same  as  in  the  East  Indies,  and  is  probably 
the  santalum  album.  It  is  a  tolerably  heavy  and  solid  wood,  and 
after  the  sap,  or  part  next  the  bark,  is  taken  off,  is  of  a  light  yellow 
or  brown  colour,  containing  a  quantity  of  aromatic  oil.  Although  a 
plant  of  slow  growth,  it  is  found  in  abundance  in  all  the  mountainous 
parts  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  is  cut  in  great  quantities  by  the 
natives,  as  it  constitutes  their  principal  article  of  exportation. 

It  is  brought  down  to  the  beach  in  pieces  from  a  foot  to  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter,  and  six  or  eight  feet  long,  to  small  sticks  not 
more  than  an  inch  thick  and  a  foot  and  a  half  long. 

It  is  sold  by  weight,  and  the  merchants,  who  exchange  for  it 
articles  of  European  or  Chinese  manufacture,  take  it  to  the  Canton 
market,  where  it  is  bought  by  the  Chinese  for  the  purpose  of  pre- 
paring incense  to  burn  in  their  idol  temples. 

HILO    A    RAINY   DISTRICT. 

In  the  evening,  many  natives,  attracted  by  curiosity,  came  to  our 
house.  "We  conversed  some  time  with  them,  and  when  they  went 
away,  invited  them  to  attend  public  worship  on  the  morrow. 

Dense  fogs  and  heavy  rains  arc  more  frequent  at  Waiakea,  and 
over  the  whole  division  of   Him.  than   in  any  other  part   of  the  island. 


228 

Wo  were,  therefore,  not  surprised  at  beholding,  on  the  morning  of  the 
10th,  the  district  and  coast  enveloped  in  mist,  and  experiencing  fre- 
quent showers  of  rain  through  the  earlier  part  of  the  day.  Between 
nine  and  ten  in  the  forenoon,  however,  the  fog  cleared  off,  and  the 
sun  shone  brightly  on  the   glowing  landscape. 

Shortly  after  ten  o'clock,  the  chiefs,  and  people  in  considerable 
numbers,  assembled  in  a  large  house  adjacent  to  that  in  which  we 
resided,  agreeably  to  the  invitation  given  them  last  evening.  The 
worship  commenced  as  usual,  and  I  preached  from  the  text,  ' '  Happy 
is  that  people  whose  God  is  the  Lord."  The  attention  was  not  so 
good  as  that  generally  given  by  the  congregations  we  had  addressed. 
Many,  however,   quietly  listened   till  the  service  was  over. 

A   CONTROVERSY    WITH   A   PRIESTESS    OF    PELE. 

As  we  arose  to  depart,  an  old  woman,  who  during  the  discourse 
sat  near  the  speaker,  and  had  listened  very  attentively,  all  at  once 
exclaimed,  ' '  Powerful  are  the  gods  of  Hawaii,  and  great  is  Pele, 
the  goddess  of  Hawaii,  she  shall  save  Maaro, "  (the  sick  chief  who 
was  present). 

Another  began  to  chant  a  song  in  praise  of  Pele,  to  which  the 
people  generally  listened,  though  some  began  to  laugh. 

We  supposed  they  were  intoxicated,  and  therefore  took  no  notice 
of  them;  but  on  our  leaving  the  house,  some  of  our  people  told  us 
they  were  not  ona  i  ka  ruma  (intoxicated  or  poisoned  with  rum,)  but 
inspired  by  the  akua  (goddess)  of  the  volcano;  or  that  one  of  them 
was  Pele  herself,  in  the  form  of  one  of  her  priestesses. 

On  hearing  this,  I  turned  back  into  the  house,  and  when  the  song 
was  ended,  immediately  entered  into  conversation  with  the  principal 
one,  by  asking  her  if  she  had  attended  to  the  discorse  that  had  been 
delivered  there? 

She  answered  that  she  had  listened,  and  understood  it. 

I  then  asked  if  she  thought  Jehovah  was  good,  and  those  happy 
who  made  him  their  God? 

She  answered,  "He  is  your  good  God,  (or  best  God,)  and  it  is 
right  that  you  should  worship  him;  but  Pele  is  my  deity,  and  the 
great  goddess  of  Hawaii.  Kirauea  is  the  place  of  her  abode.  Ohia- 
otelani  (the  northern  peak  of  the  volcano)  is  one  corner  of  her  house. 
From  the  land  beyond  the  sky,  in  former  times,  she  came." 

She  then  went  on  with  the  song  which  she  had  thus  begun,  giving 
a  long  account  of  the  deeds  and  honours  of  Pele.  This  she  pronounced 
in  such  a  rapid  and  vociferous  manner,  accompanied  by  such  violent 
gestures,  that  only  here  and  there  a  word  could  be  understood.  In- 
deed, towards  the  close,  she  appeared  to  lose  all  command  of  herself. 

When  she  had  done,  I  told  her  she  was  mistaken  in  supposing  any 


229 

supernatural  being  resided  in  the  volcano;  that  Pele  was  a  creature 
of  their  own  invention,  and  existed  only  in  the  imagination  of  her 
kaku,  or  devotees:  adding,  that  volcanoes,  and  all  their  accom- 
panying phenomena,  were  under  the  powerful  control  of  Jehovah, 
who,  though  uncreated  himself,  was  the  Creator  and  Supporter  of 
heaven  and  earth,  and  every  thing  she  beheld. 

JEHOVAH   NOT    THE    ONLY    GOD. 

She  replied,  that  it  was  not  so.  She  did  not  dispute  that  Jehovah 
was  a  God,  but  that  he  was  not  the  only  God. 

Pele  was  a  goddess,  and  dwelt  in  her,  and  through  her  would  heal 
the  sick  chief  then  present.  She  wished  him  restored,  and  therefore 
came  to  visit  him. 

I  said  I  also  wished  Maaro  to  recover,  but  if  he  did  recover,  it 
would  be  by  the  favour  of  Jehovah,  and  that  I  hoped  he  would  ack- 
nowledge him,  and  seek  to  him  alone,  as  he  was  the  only  true  Phy- 
sician, who  could  save  both  body  and  soul,  making  the  latter  happy 
in  another  world,  when  this  world,  with  all  its  volcanoes,  mountains, 
and  oceans,  should  cease  to  exist. 

I  then  advised  her,  and  all  present,  to  forsake  their  imaginary 
deity,  whose  character  was  distinguished  by  all  that  was  revengeful 
and  destructive,  and  accept  the  offers  Jehovah  had  made  them  by  his 
servants,  that  they  might  be  happy  now,  and  escape  the  everlasting 
death  that  would  overtake  all  the  idolatrous  and  wicked. 

AN  IMPERSONATOR  OF  PELE. 

Assuming  a  haughty  air,  she  said,  "I  am  Pele;  I  shall  never  die; 
and  those  who  follow  me,  when  they  die,  if  part  of  their  bones  be 
taken  to  Kirauea,  (the  name  of  the  volcano,)  will  live  with  me  in  the 
bright  fires  there." 

I  said,  Are  you  Pele? 

She  replied,  Yes:  and  was  proceeding  to  state  her  powers,  &c.  when 
Makoa,  who  had  till  now  stood  silent,  interrupted  her,  and  said,  "It 
is  true  you  are  Pele,  or  some  of  Pele's  party;  and  it  is  you  that  have 
destroyed  the  king's  land,  devoured  his  people,  and  spoiled  all  the 
fishing  grounds. 

Ever  since  you  came  to  the  islands,  you  have  been  busied  in  mis- 
chief; you  spoiled  the  greater  part  of  the  island,  shook  it  to  pieces, 
or  cursed  it  with  barrenness,  by  inundating  it  with  lava. 

You  never  did  any  good;  and  if  I  were  the  king,  I  would  throw 
you  all  into  the  sea,  or  banish  you  from  the  islands.  Hawaii  would 
be  quiet  if  you  were  away." 

This  was  rather  unexpected,  and  seemed  to  surprise  several  of  the 
company. 


230 

However,  the  pretended  Pele  said,  "Formerly  we  did  overflow  some 
of  the  land,  but  it  was  only  the  land  of  those  that  were  rebels,  or 
were  very  wicked  people.  (Broke  the  restrictions  of  the  tabu,  or 
brought  no  offerings.)     Now  we  abide  quietly  in  Kirauea. " 

RUM    WORSE    THAN    PELE. 

She  then  added,  "It  cannot  be  said  that  in  these  days  we  destroy 
the  king's  people."  She  mentioned  the  names  of  several  chiefs,  and 
then  asked  who  destroyed  these? 

Not  Pele,  but  the  rum  of  the  foreigners,  whose  God  you  are  so  fond 
of.  Their  diseases  and  their  rum  have  destroyed  more  of  the  king's 
men,  than  all  the  volcanoes  on  the  island. 

I  told  her  I  regretted  that  their  intercourse  with  foreigners  should 
have  introduced  among  them  diseases  to  which  they  were  strangers 
before,  and  that  I  hoped  they  would  also  receive  the  advantages  of 
Christian  instruction  and  civilization,  which  the  benevolent  in  those 
countries  by  which  they  had  been  injured,  were  now  anxious  to 
impart:  that  intoxication  was  wholly  forbidden  by  Jehovah,  the  God 
of  Christians,  who  had  declared  that  no  drunkard  should  enter  the 
kingdom   of  heaven. 

I  then  said,  I  was  sorry  to  see  her  so  deceived,  and  attempting  to 
deceive  others;  told  her  she  knew  her  pretensions  were  false,  and 
recommended  her  to  consider  seriously  the  consequences  of  idolatry, 
and  cease  to  practise  her  fatal  deceptions;  to  recollect  that  she 
would  one  day  die;  that  God  had  given  her  an  opportunity  of  hearing 
of  his  love  to  sinners  in  the  gift  of  his  Son;  and  that  if  she  applied 
to  him  for  mercy,  although  now  an  idolatrous  priestess,  she  might  be 
saved;  but  if  she  did  not,  a  fearful  doom  awaited  her. 

"I  shall  not  die,"  she  exclaimed,  "but  ora  no,"  (live  spon- 
taneously.) 

After  replying  to  this,  I  retired;  but  the  spectators,  who  had  mani- 
fested by  their  countenances  that  they  were  not  uninterested  in  the 
discussion,   continued  in  earnest   conversation  for  some  time. 

The  name  of  the  priestess  we  afterwards  learned  was  Oani.  She 
resided  in  a  neighbouring  village,  and  had  that  morning  arrived  at 
Waiakea  on  a  visit  to  Maaro. 

THREATS    BY    PRIESTS    OF    PELE. 

When  the  national  idolatry  was  publicly  abolished  in  the  year,  1819, 
several  priests  of  Pele  denounced  the  most  awful  threatenings,  of 
earthquakes,  eruptions,  &c.  from  the  gods  of  the  volcanoes,  in  revenge 
for  the  insult  and  neglect  then  shewn  by  the  king  and  chiefs.  But  no 
fires  afterwards  appearing  in  any  of  the  extinguished  volcanoes,  no 
fresh  ones  having  broken  out,  and  those  then  in  action  having  since 


231 

that  period  remained  in  a  state  of  comparative  quiescence,  some  of 
the  people  have  been  led  to  conclude,  that  the  gods  formerly  sup- 
posed to  preside  over  volcanoes  had  existed  only  in  their  imagination. 
The  fearful  apprehensions  which  they  had  been  accustomed  to  asso- 
ciate with  every  idea  of  Pele  and  her  companions,  have  in  a  great 
measure  subsided,  and  the  oppressive  power  of  her  priests  and 
priestesses  is  consequently  diminished. 

PELE    STILL    DREADED. 

There  are,  however,  many  who  remain  in  constant  dread  of  her 
displeasure,  and  who  pay  the  most  submissive  and  unhesitating  obedi- 
ence to  the  requisitions  of  her  priests. 

This  is  no  more  than  was  to  be  expected,  particularly  in  this  part 
of  the  island,  where  the  people  are  far  removed  from  the  means  of 
instruction,  the  example  and  influence  of  the  principal  chiefs,  and 
more  enlightened  part  of  the  population;  and  it  appears  matter  of  sur- 
prise, that  in  the  course  of  three  years  only,  so  many  should  have  re- 
linquished their  superstitious  notions  respecting  the  deities  of  the 
volcanoes,  when  we  consider  their  ignorance,  and  their  early  impres- 
sions, and  recollect  that  while  resting  at  night,  perhaps  on  a  bed  of 
lava,  they  are  occasionally  startled  from  their  midnight  slumbers  by 
the  undulating  earthquake,  and  are  daily  reminded  of  the  dreadful 
power  of  this  imaginary  goddess  "by  almost  every  object  that  meets 
their  view,  from  the  cliffs  which  are  washed  by  the  waves  of  the  sea, 
even  to  the  lofty  craters,  her  ancient  seat  above  the  clouds,  and  amid 
perpetual  snows." 

Until  this  morning,  however,  none  of  the  servants  of  Pele  had  ever 
publicly  opposed  her  pretended  right  to  that  homage  and  obedience 
which  it  was  our  object  to  persuade  and  invite  them  to  render  to 
Jehovah  alone;  and  though  it  was  encouraging  to  notice,  that,  by 
many  of  the  people  present,  the  pretensions  of  Oani  were  disregarded, 
it  was  exceedingly  painful  to  hear  an  idolatrous  priestess  declaring 
that  the  conduct  of  those,  by  whom  they  had  been  sometimes  visited 
from  countries  called  Christian,  had  been  productive  of  consequences 
more  injurious  and  fatal  to  the  unsuspecting  and  unenlightened 
Hawaiians,  than  these  dreadful  phenomena  in  nature,  which  they  had 
been  accustomed  to  attribute  to  the  most  destructive  of  their  imagi- 
nary deities,  and  to  know  also  that  such  ;t  declaration  was  too  true  to 
be  contradicted. 

NATIVES    INCLINED    TOWARD    CHRISTIANITY. 

A  number  of  people,  after  they  left  the  place  of  public  worship, 
came  to  our  house,  and  conversed  on  the  blessedness  of  those  who 
worship  and  obey  Jehovah.    They  all  sai.i  it  4,  and  that  Lf  the 


232 

king  were  to  come  or  send  them  word,  they  would  build  a  house  for 
a  missionary,  a  school-house,  and  chapel,  and  also  observe  the  Sab- 
bath-day. 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Thurston  preached  at  the  same  place  to  an 
attentive  congregation.  In  company  wifh  Mr.  Bishop,  I  walked  over 
to  Ponahawai,  where  Makoa  collected  upwards  of  one  hundred  people 
at  the  head  man's  house,  to  whom  I  preached  from  Kom.  x.  13. 
"Whosoever  shall  call  upon  the  name  of  the  Lord  shall  be  saved." 
The  whole  assembly  gave  good  attention,  frequently  interrupting  me 
while  speaking,  by  their  exclamations. 

A  gray-headed  old  man,  who  sat  near  the  door,  listened  with  ap- 
parent interest  during  the  whole  service,  and  when,  towards  the  close, 
it  was  stated  that  those  who  in  faith  called  on  the  Lord,  would  in 
another  world  obtain  everlasting  life,  he  exclaimed,  "My  days  are 
almost  ended,  that  cannot  be  for  me, — can  an  old  man  live  for  ever?" 
He  was  told  that  Jesus  was  willing  to  save  the  souls  of  all  who  with 
humility  and  sincerity  come  to  him,  both  old  and  young;  that  he 
would  reanimate  their  bodies  in  the  resurrection;  and  that  he 
would  give  eternal  life  to  as  many  as  believed  on  his  name. 

EFFECT    OF    RELIGIOUS    DOCTRINE    ON    NATIVES. 

We  have  more  than  once  had  occasion  to  notice  with  peculiar  in- 
terest the  impression  made  on  an  adult  heathen,  when  some  of  the 
sublime  and  important  doctrines  of  religion  are  for  the  first  time 
presented  to  his  mind. 

Accustomed  to  contemplate  the  gods  of  his  ancestors  as  the  patrons 
of  every  vice,  and  supernatural  monsters  of  cruelty,  deriving  satis- 
faction from  the  struggles  and  expiring  agonies  of  the  victim  offered 
in  sacrifice,  he  is  surprised  to  hear  of  the  holy  nature  of  God,  and 
the  condescending  love  of  Christ;  but  the  idea  of  the  resurrection 
of  the  body,  the  general  judgment,  and  the  eternal  happiness  or 
misery  of  all  mankind,  affects  him  with  a  degree  of  astonishment 
never  witnessed  in  countries  where  the  Christian  religion  prevails, 
and  in  which,  notwithstanding  the  lamentable  ignorance  existing  in 
different  portions  of  the  community,  there  are  few  who  have  not  some 
moral  perceptions,  which  have  enlarged  with  the  growth  of  intellect, 
and  the  more  extended  observations  of  riper  years. 

But  the  heathen,  whose  mental  powers  have  reached  maturity  be- 
fore the  truth  has  been  presented,  experiences  very  different  sensa- 
tions; and  we  have  seen  the  effects  produced  at  these  times  exhibited 
in  various  ways:  sometimes  by  most  significant  gestures,  at  other  times 
by  involuntary  exclamations,  or  penetrating  looks  fixed  on  the  speaker; 
and  occasionally,  as  was  the  case  this  afternoon,  by  their  actually 
interrupting  us  to  inquire,  "How  can  these  things  be?"  or  declaring 


233 

in  their  own  beautiful  and  figurative  language,  that  the  tidings  they 
had  heard  "broke  in  upon  their  minds  like  the  light  of  the  morning." 
"When  the  exercises  were  ended,  they  congratulated  each  other  on 
the  news  they  had  heard;  said  it  was  good,  and  added,  "Let  us  all 
attend  to  it;  who  is  there  that  does  not  desire  eternal  life  in  the  other 
world?"  They  afterwards  made  many  inquiries  about  the  Sabbath- 
day,  prayer,  &c.  and  asked  if  they  should  not  be  visited  again.  We 
told  them  it  was  probable  that,  before  long,  teachers  would  come  and 
reside    permanently    among   them. 

DESCRIPTION   OP   A   CHIEF'S   HOUSEHOLD. 

On  our  way  home,  we  called  on  Maaro,  whom  we  found  very  ill. 
One  of  his  children  was  also  sick,  and  seemed  near  dying.  "We  re- 
greted  that  we  had  no  medicine  proper  to  administer  either  to  the 
suffering  chief  or  his  child. 

The  wretched  picture  of  uncivilized  society,  which  this  family  ex- 
hibited, powerfully  affected  our  minds.  Maaro 's  house,  like  that  of 
the  chiefs  in  general,  was  large,  and  accommodated  many  of  his 
friends  and  dependants. 

On  one  side  near  the  door,  he  lay  on  a  mat  which  was  spread  on 
the  ground.  Two  or  three  domestics  sat  around,  one  of  them  holding 
a  small  calabash  of  water,  and  another  with  a  kahiri  was  fanning 
away  the  flies. 

Xear  the  centre  of  the  house,  on  another  mat,  spread  also  on  the 
ground,  lay  the  pale  emaciated  child,  its  features  distorted  with  pain, 
and  its  feeble  voice  occasionally  uttering  the  most  piteous  cries.  A 
native  girl  sat  beside  it,  driving  away  the  flies,  and  holding  a  cocoa- 
nut  shell  in  her  hand,  containing  a  little  poe,  with  which  she  had 
been  endeavouring  to  feed  it. 

INDIFFERENCE    OP    FAMILY    TO    SICKNESS. 

In  the  same  place,  and  nearly  between  the  father  and  the  child, 
two  of  Maaro 's  wives,  and  some  other  chief  women,  were  seated  on 
the  ground,  playing  at  cards,  laughing  and  jesting  over  their  game. 

We  tried  to  enter  into  conversation  with  them,  but  they  were  too 
intent  on  the  play  to  pay  any  attention  to  what  we  Baid, 

The  visitors  or  attendants  of  the  chief  sat  in  groups  in  different 
parts  of  the  house,  some  carelessly  singing,  others  engaged  in  earnest 
conversation. 

We  could  not  forbear  contrasting  the  scene  here  presented,  with  a 
domestic  circle  in  civilized  and  Christian  society,  under  Bimilar  cir- 
cumstances, where  all  the  alleviations  which  the  tenderest  sympathy 
could  impart,  would  be  promptly  tendered  to  the  suffering  indivi- 
duals. 


234 

But  hero,  alas!  ignorance,  cruel  idolatry,  and  familiarity  with  vice, 
appeared  to  have  destroyed  natural  affection,  and  all  the  tender  sym- 
pathies of  humanity,  in  their  bosoms. 

The  wife  beheld  unmoved  the  sufferings  of  her  husband,  and  the 
amusement  of  the  mother  was  undisturbed  by  the  painful  crying  of 
her  languishing  child. 

TREATMENT   OF  THE    SICK  IN   TAHITI. 

The  state  of  domestic  society  in  Tahiti  and  the  neighbouring 
islands,  only  a  few  years  ago,  was  even  more  affecting.  There  the 
sick  were  often  removed  from  the  house  in  which  they  had  been 
accustomed  to  reside,  and  placed  in  a  miserable  hut  a  few  yards  dis- 
tant, and  were  sometimes  starved  to  death,  or  murdered,  or  buried 
alive,  from  motives  of  covetousness  or  idleness;  children  frequently 
declaring  it  was  too  much  trouble  to  attend  to  the  wants  of  their 
parents. 

But  what  a  pleasing  change  has  the  introduction  of  Christianity 
effected  among  them! 

So  far  from  being  unwilling  to  take  care  of  their  sick  relatives  and 
friends,  a  number  of  individuals,  at  several  of  the  missionary  sta- 
tions, annually  devote  a  part  of  the  produce  of  their  labour,  to  erect 
houses,  purchase  medicine,  and  provide  for  the  comfort  of  those  who 
are  sick  and  indigent. 

It  is  impossible  for  any  people  to  be  more  attentive  and  kind  than 
they  now  are.  Many  a  time  the  friend  of  some  one  who  had  been 
taken  ill  has  called  me  up  at  midnight  to  ask  for  medicine;  and  often 
have  I  seen  a  wife  or  a  sister  supporting  in  her  lap  the  head  of  a  sick 
and  perhaps  dying  husband  or  brother,  night  after  night,  yet  refus- 
ing to  leave  them,  though  almost  exhausted  with  fatigue. 

DISCUSSIONS  "WITH  MAARO,   CHIEF  OF  WAIAKEA. 

Leaving  Maaro,  we  returned  through  a  highly  cultivated  part  of 
the  district.  Every  thing  in  nature  was  lovely,  and  the  landscape 
around  awakened  emotions  very  different  from  those  excited  during 
our  visit  to  the  abode  of  sickness  which  we  had  just  left. 

The  wretchedness  of  the  people,  we  trust,  will  ere  long  be  amelior- 
ated; for  the  gospel,  which  produced  the  favourable  change  above 
alluded  to,  among  the  natives  of  the  Society  Islands,  has  at  length 
reached  these  shores;  and  there  is  every  reason  to  expect  that  its 
humane  spirit  and  principles,  when  onee  imbibed  by  the  people,  will 
result  in  corresponding  effects. 

The  morning  of  the  11th  was  cloudy,  with  rain,  which  did  not  clear 
off  till  about  10  a.  m.     The  greater  part  of  the  day  we  employed  in 


235 

examining  the  district  and  harbour.     We  were  highly  gratified  with 
the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  luxuriance  of  the  verdure. 

PROPOSAL  TO   SEND  MISSIONARIES  TO   HILO. 

In  the  afternoon  we  waited  on  Maaro  the  chief,  to  ask  his  opinion 
respecting  missionaries  settling  permanently  in  his  neighbourhood. 
He  said,  perhaps  it  would  be  well;  that  if  the  king  and  chiefs  ap- 
proved of  it,  he  should  desire  it. 

We  asked  if  he  would  patronize  and  protect  missionaries  and  their 
families,  provided  the  king  and  chiefs  approved  of  their  settling  at 
Waiakea.  He  answered,  ' '  Yes,  certainly, ' '  and,  at  the  same  time, 
pointed  out  several  places  where  they  might  build  their  houses." 

We  told  him  that  the  king,  Karaimoku,  Kaahumanu,  and  the  gov- 
ernor, approved  of  instructors  coming  to  teach  the  people  of  Waia- 
kea; but  that  we  were  also  desirous  to  obtain  his  opinion,  before  any 
arrangements  were  made  for  their  removal  from  Oahu.  He  again 
repeated  that  he  thought  it  would  be  a  good  thing;  and  that  if  the 
missionaries  came  with  the  approbation  of  the  king  and  chiefs,  he 
should  be  glad  to  witness  their  arrival. 

We  then  took  leave  of  Maaro.  and  the  chiefs  that  were  with  him. 
Messrs.  Thurston  and  Bishop  walked  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
bay,  where  we  had  held  a  religious  exercise  yesterday,  and  here  Mr. 
Thurston  preached  to  an  attentive  congregation  of  about  sixty  people. 
The  head  man  afterwards  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  be  instructed, 
and  said  all  the  people  would  like  to  learn  the  palapala,  and  keep 
the  Sabbath-day. 

DISCUSSIONS   WITH   NATIVES   ABOUT   MISSIONARIES. 

While  they  were  on  the  western  shore,  1  visited  several  houses  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  settlement,  and  entered  into  conversation  with 
the  people  on  the  subject  of  missionaries  coming  to  reside  at  Waiakea. 

In  general  they  approved,  saying  they  had  dark  minds,  and  needed 
instruction.  Some,  however,  seemed  to  doubt  the  propriety  of  for- 
eigners coming  to  reside  permanently  among  them.  They  said  they 
had  heard  that  in  several  countries  where  foreigners  had  intermin- 
gled with  the  original  natives,  the  latter  had  soon  disappeared;  and 
should  missionaries  come  to  live  at  Waiakea,  perhaps  the  land  would 
ultimately  become  theirs,  and  the  kanaka  maore  (aborigines)  cease 
to  be  its  occupiers. 

I  told  them,  that  had  boon  the  case  in  some  countries;  but  thai  the 
residence  of  missionaries  among  them,  so  far  from  producing  it.  was 
i  ed  and  eminently  calculated  to  prevent  a  oonsequence  bo  melan- 
choly. 

At  the  same  time  I   remarked,  thai   their  sanguinary  wars,  tlieir 


23G 

extensive  and  cruel  practice  of  infanticide,  their  frequent  intoxica- 
tion, and  their  numerous  diseases,  partly  gendered  by  vicious  habits, 
had,  according  to  their  own  account,  diminished  the  population  of 
the  island  three-fourths  within  the  last  forty  years;  and,  from  the 
destructive  operation  of  these  causes,  there  was  every  reason  to  fear 
the  Hawaiian  people  would  soon  be  annihilated,  unless  some  antidote 
was  found,  some  barrier  opposed,  to  their  depopulating  effects. 

None,  I  added,  were  so  strong  as  moral  restraints;  none  so  effica- 
cious as  instruction  and  civilization;  and,  above  all,  the  principles  and 
doctrines  of  the  Bible,  which  they  could  not  become  acquainted  with 
but  by  the  residence  of  missionaries  among  them. 

Such,  I  informed  them,  was  the  opinion  of  the  friends  of  missions, 
who,  anxious  to  ameliorate  their  wretched  condition,  preserve  from 
oblivion  the  remnant  of  the  people,  place  them  among  the  nations 
of  the  earth,  and  direct  them  to  the  enjoyment  of  civilized  life,  and 
the  participation  of  immortality  and  happiness  in  another  world,  had 
sent  them  the  word  of  God,  and  missionaries  to  unfold  to  them, 
in  their  own  language,  its  divine  and  invaluable  truths. 

At  the  close  of  this  interview,  some  again  repeated,  that  it  would 
be  a  good  thing  for  missionaries  to  come;  others  expressed  doubt  and 
hesitation. 

Many  of  the  people,  during  their  intercourse  with  foreigners,  have 
been  made  acquainted  with  the  leading  facts  in  the  history  of  South 
America  and  the  West  Indies;  and  hence  the  natives  of  this  place,  in 
all  probability,  derived  the   ground   of  their  objection. 

STATUS   OF   NATIVES   COMPARED   WITH    SOCIETY   ISLANDERS. 

The  houses  of  the  natives  whom  we  had  visited  today,  like  most 
in  this  part  of  the  island,  where  the  pandanus  is  abundant,  were 
covered  with  the  leaves  of  this  plant,  which,  though  it  requires  more 
labour  in  thatching,  makes  the  most  durable  dwellings. 

The  inhabitants  of  "Waiakea  are  peculiarly  favoured  in  having 
woods  producing  timber,  such  as  they  use  for  building,  within  three  or 
four  miles  of  their  settlement,  while  the  natives  in  most  parts  of  the 
islands  have  to  fetch  it  from  a  much  greater  distance. 

In  neatness  and  elegance  of  appearance  their  houses  are  not  equal 
to  those  of  the  Society  Islanders,  even  before  they  were  instructed 
by  Europeans,  but  in  point  of  strength  and  durability  they  sometimes 
exceed  them. 

STYLES   AND    METHODS    OF   BUILDING    HAWAIIAN    HOUSES. 

There  is  also  less  variety  in  the  form  of  the  Sandwich  Island 
dwellings,  which  are  chiefly  of  two  kinds,  viz.  the  hale  noho,  (dwell- 
ing house,)   or  halau,   (a  long  building,)   nearly  open  at  one  end,  and, 


237 

though,   thatched    with    different    materials,   they    are    all   framed   in 
nearly  the  same  way. 

They  begin  to  build  a  house  by  planting  in  the  ground  a  number  of 
posts,  six  or  eight  inches  in  diameter,  in  a  row,  about  three  or  four 
feet  apart,  which  are  to  support  one  side  of  the  house.  When  these 
are  fixed  in  a  straight  line,  they  erect  a  parallel  row,  to  form  the 
opposite  side. 

In  the  small  houses,  these  posts  are  not  more  than  three  or  four 
feet  high,  while  in  the  larger  ones  they  are  twelve  or  fourteen  feet 
in  height,  and  proportionably  stout.  Those  used  in  the  chiefs'  houses 
are  round,  straight,  and  smooth,  being  prepared  with  great  care,  but 
in  general  they  are  fixed  in  the  ground  without  even  having  the 
bark  stripped  off. 

Grooves  are  cut  in  the  top  of  the  posts,  along  which  small  poles  are 
laid  horizontally,  instead  of  wall-plates,  and  tied  to  the  posts  with 
the  fibrous  roots  of  the  ie,  a  tough  mountain  plant. 

A  high  post,  notched  at  the  top,  is  next  fixed  in  the  middle  at 
each  end,  and  supports  the  ridge-pole,  on  which  the  tops  of  the  rafters 
rest,  while,  at  the  lower  end,  they  are  fixed  on  the  wall-plate,  each 
rafter  being  placed  exactly  above  the  post  which  supports  the  hori- 
zontal pole,  or  wall-plate. 

"When  the  rafters  are  fixed,  small  poles  are  laid  along,  where  they 
cross  each  other  above  the  ridge-pole;  sometimes  poles  are  fastened 
across  like  tie-beams,  about  half-way  up  the  roof,  and  the  separate 
parts  of  the  whole  frame  are  tied  together  with  strong  cinet,  made 
of  the  roots  of  the  ie  plant,  or  fibres  of  cocoa-nut  husk. 

The  space  between  the  posts  at  the  sides  and  ends  is  now  closed 
up  with  sticks,  larger  than  a  common-sized  walking-stick,  which  are 
tied  with  cinet  in  horizontal  lines,  two  or  three  inches  apart,  on  the 
outside  of  the  posts,  and  extending  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the 
roof.  A  large  house,  in  this  stage  of  its  erection,  has  a  singular  ap- 
pearance. 

If  the  sides  and  roof  are  of  plantain  leafstalks,  and  the  leaves  of 
the  pandanus,  or  of  ti  leaves,  each  leaf  is  woven  around  tho  hori- 
zontal sticks,  which  gives  it  a  neat  appearance,  resembling  a  kind 
of  coarse  matting  on  the  inside,  while  the  ends  of  the  leaves  hang 
down  without.  But  if  they  are  covered  with  grass,  which  is  most 
commonly  the  case,  it  is  bound  up  in  Bmall  bundles,  and  these  are  tied 
to  the  small  sticks  along  the  side  of  the  wall  of  the  house,  with  cinet 
or  cord. 

They  always  begin  at  the  bottom,  and  tie  on  the  grass  with  the 
roots  upward,  and  inclined  towards  the  Lnside,  and  continue  one  row 
above  another  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the  roof. 

The  roof  and  sides  are  always  of  the  same  material,  except   where 


238 

tlif  latter  are  of  plantain  or  ti  leaves.  The  corners  and  ridge  are 
sometimes  covered  with  fern-leaves,  with  which  they  can  secure  these 
parts  better  than  with  grass,  &c. 

ABSENCE    OF    WINDOWS   IN    HOUSES. 

The  shell  is  now  finished,  and  generally,  except  in  the  lowness  of 
the  sides  and  steepness  of  the  roof,  looks  much  like  a  hay-rick, 
particularly  as  until  recently  they  never  thought  of  making  win- 
dows, and  had  only  one  aperture,  which  was  the  entrance. 

A  large  portion  of  the  lower  part  of  that  end  of  the  halau  which 
faces  the  sea,  is  usually  open. 

The  houses  of  this  kind  were  probably  originally  erected  for  the 
construction  and  preservation  of  canoes,  for  which  purpose  they  are 
still  sometimes  used,  though  frequently  occupied  as  dwellings. 

In  the  common  dwelling-house,  the  door  is  frequently  on  one  side. 
In  the  old  houses  the  doors  are  always  low. 

Since  foreigners  have  resided  among  them,  and  built  houses  with 
doors  and  windows,  the  natives  have  enlarged  their  doors,  though 
there  are  yet  but  few  that  can  be  entered  without  stooping. 

Some  of  them  also  begin  to  think  windows  a  convenience,  but 
they  by  no  means  fall  in  with  our  ideas  of  uniformity  in  the  disposi- 
tion of  them. 

Sometimes  we  have  seen  a  house  forty  or  fifty  feet  long,  with  the 
door  at  one  end,  and  a  small  window  at  the  other,  half  way  up  to  the 
top  of  the  roof. 

Again,  we  have  entered  a  house  of  equal  dimensions,  and  in  some 
parts  of  it  we  have  seen  an  aperture  within  a  foot  or  a  foot  and  a 
half  of  the  floor,  generally  near  their  sleeping-places.  This,  as  well 
as  the  other,  they  call  a  buka  makani,  (wind  hole,)  and  assign  as  a 
reason  for  placing  it  in  such  a  situation,  that  they  sometimes  find 
it  close  in  their  houses,  and  like  to  have  the  wind  blow  on  them  as 
they  lie  on  their  mats. 

INTERIOR    ARRANGEMENT    OF    DWELLINGS. 

The  shell  of  the  house  being  finished,  they  proceed  to  fit  up  the 
inside,  which  is  soon  accomplished,  as  they  have  neither  partitions 
nor  chambers,  and,  however  large  the  house  may  be,  but  one  room 
and  one  floor.  In  preparing  the  latter,  they  sometimes  level  the 
ground,  and  spread  grass  over  it,  which  they  cover  with  large  mats 
made  of  the  leaves  of  the  pandanus.  But  the  best  floors  are'  those 
formed  with  pebbles,  or  small  fragments  of  lava,  which  are  always 
dry,  and  less  likely  to  be  infested  with  vermin  than  those  covered 
'fith  grass. 

The   size   and   quality   of  a  dwelling  varies   according  to  the   rank 


239 

and  means  of  its  possessor,  those  of  the  poor  people  being  mere 
huts,  eight  or  ten  feet  square,  others  twenty  feet  long,  and  ten  or 
twelve  feet  wide,  while  the  houses  of  the  chiefs  are  from  fort)'  to 
seventy  feet  long. 

Their  houses  are  generally  separate  from  each  other;  even  in  their 
most  populous  villages,  however  near  the  houses  may  be,  they  are 
always  distinct  buildings. 

METHODS  OF  ERECTION  OF  HOUSES. 

Although  there  are  professed  house-carpenters  who  excel  in  fram- 
ing, and  others  who  are  taught  to  finish  the  corners  of  the  house  and 
ridge  of  the  roof,  which  but  few  understand,  yet,  in  general,  every 
man  erects  his  own  house.  If  it  be  of  a  middling  or  large  size,  this, 
to  an  individual  or  a  family,  is  a  formidable  undertaking,  as  they 
have  to  cut  down  the  trees  in  the  mountains,  and  bring  the  wood 
from  six  to  ten  miles  on  their  shoulders,  gather  the  leaves  or  grass, 
braid  the  cinet,  &e.  before  they  can  begin  to  build. 

But  when  a  chief  wants  a  house,  he  requires  the  labour  of  all  who 
hold  lands  under  him;  and  we  have  often  been  surprised  at  the  des- 
patch with  which  a  house  is  sometimes  built. 

We  have  known  the  natives  come  with  their  materials  in  the 
morning,  put  up  the  frame  of  a  middling-sized  house  in  one  day, 
cover  it  in  the  next,  and  on  the  third  day  return  to  their  lands. 

Each  division  of  people  has  a  part  of  the  house  allotted  by  the 
chief,  in  proportion  to  its  number;  and  it  is  no  unusual  thing  to 
see  upwards  of  a  hundred  men  at  a  time  working  on  one  house. 

DURABILITY  OF  GRASS  HOUSES. 

A  good  house,  such  as  they  build  for  the  chiefs,  will  keep  out  the 
wind  and  rain,  and  last  from  seven  to  ten  years.  But,  in  general, 
they  do  not  last  more  than  five  years;  and  those  which  they  are  hired 
to  build  for  foreigners,  not  much  more  than  half  that  time. 

In  less  than  twelve  months  after  my  own  grass  house  was  built,  the 
rain  came  through  the  roof  from  one  end  to  the  other,  every  time 
there  was  a  heavy  shower. 

In  some  of  the  islands  the  natives  have  recently  covered  their 
houses  with  mud;  this,  however,  does  not  appear  to  render  them  more 
durable. 

TOOLS    QSED    I'.V    NATIVES. 

Before  they  were  visited  by  foreigners,  the  only  tool  employed  In 
building  was  a  stone  adze,  formed  of  a  kind  of  basalt,  or  compact 
lava;  and  though  they  hot*  use  an  axe  Ln  felling  the  trees,  the  adze 

is    BtiU    their    favourite    tool,    ami    miiny    of    tlimi    n:-.'    no    other. 


240 

The  stone  adze  is,  however,  exchanged  for  one  made  with  a  plane 
iron,  bent,  and  tied  securely  to  a  handle  of  light  wood.  This  they 
prefer  to  the  European  adze,  which  they  say  is  too  heavy. 

Sometimes  they  use  a  saw,  chisel,  and  gimblet,  in  framing  their 
houses,  but  they  are  not  yet  adepts  in  the  use  of  these  tools;  we  have 
often  seen  them  throw  down  the  saw,  and  take  up  their  adze  to  finish 
that  which  they  had  commenced  cutting  with  a  saw. 

IMPROVEMENTS   IN   DWELLINGS. 

Their  habitations,  though  rude,  discover,  concerning  their  circum- 
stances and  means,  a  greater  degree  of  industry,  and  attention  to 
comfort,  than  is  usually  manifested  by  uncivilized  nations;  and 
within  the  last  few  years  great  improvements  have  been  made  in 
their  houses. 

Karaimoku  has  erected  in  the  island  of  Oahu,  a  stone  house,  sixty 
feet  by  thirty,  three  stories  high,  with  a  spacious  cellar  underneath. 
The  inside  of  the  house  he  has  formed  into  apartments,  which,  by 
foreign  workmen  whom  he  employed,  have  been  finished  in  a  highly 
respectable  manner.  The  front,  which  faces  the  south,  is  skreened  by 
a  wide  veranda  enclosed  with  light  railing,  and  ascended  by  a  hand- 
some flight  of  stairs. 

SUPERSTITIONS  CONNECTED  WITH  HOUSE  BUILDING — HOW 
FURNISHED. 

While  idolatry  existed,  a  number  of  superstitious  ceremonies  were 
performed,  before  they  could  occupy  their  houses.  Offerings  were 
made  to  the  gods,  and  presents  to  the  priest,  who  entered  the  house, 
uttered  prayers,  went  through  other  ceremonies,  and  slept  in  it  be- 
fore the  owner  took  possession,  in  order  to  prevent  evil  spirits  from 
resorting  to  it,  and  to  secure  its  inmates  from  the  effects  of  incan- 
tation. 

When  the  house  was  finished,  it  was  soon  furnished.  A  sleeping- 
mat  spread  on  the  ground,  and  a  wooden  pillow,  a  wicker  basket 
or  two  to  keep  their  tapa  or  native  cloth  in,  a  few  calabashes  for 
water  and  poe,  and  some  wooden  dishes,  of  various  size  and  shape, 
together  with  a  haka,  were  all  they  required. 

This  latter  article  was  sometimes  like  a  stand  used  by  us  for  hang- 
ing hats  and  coats  on.  It  was  often  made  with  care,  and  carved,  but 
more  frequently  it  was  a  small  arm  of  a  tree,  with  a  number  of 
branches  attached  to  it.  These  were  cut  off  within  a  foot  of  the 
main  stem,  which  was  planted  in  some  convenient  part  of  the  house, 
and  upon  these  natural  pegs  they  used  to  hang  their  calabashes,  and 
other  vessels  containing  food. 


241 

METHODS   OF   EATING. 

They  generally  sat  on  the  ground,  and  took  their  food  near  the 
door  of  their  house:  sometimes,  however,  they  took  their  meals  in  the 
more  luxurious  manner  of  some  of  the  eastern  nations,  lying  nearly 
in  a  horizontal  posture,  and  resting  on  one  arm,  or  reclining  on  a 
large  cushion  or  pillow  placed  under  the  breast  for  that  purpose;  in 
this  manner  the  late  king,  with  the  members  of  his  family,  and  many 
of  the  principal  chiefs,  were  accustomed  frequently  to  take  their 
evening  meal. 

Their  intercourse  with  foreigners  of  late  years  has  taught  many 
of  the  chiefs  to  prefer  a  bedstead  to  the  ground,  and  a  mattress  to  a 
mat,  to  sit  on  a  chair,  eat  at  a  table,  use  a  knife  and  fork,  &c.  This 
we  think  advantageous,  not  only  to  those  who  visit  them  for  purposes 
of  commerce,  but  to  the  natives  themselves,  as  it  increases  their 
wants,   and   consequently  stimulates  to   habits   of  industry. 

CANOE   HIRED   FOR   PASSAGE   TO   LAUPAHOEHOE. 

Having  been  informed  by  our  guide  that  travelling  along  the  coast 
to  the  northward  would  be  tedious  and  difficult,  on  account  of  the 
numerous  deep  ravines  that  intersected  the  whole  extent  of  Hiro  and 
Hamakua,  it  seemed  desirable  to  take  a  canoe  as  far  as  Laupahoehoe, 
by  which  we  should  avoid  some  of  the  most  difficult  parts  of  the 
coast. 

As  soon  as  the  rain  had  ceased,  and  the  fog  cleared  off,  on  the 
morning  of  the  12th  I  waited  on  Maaro,  to  inquire  if  he  could  furnish 
us  with  one.  The  chief  said,  he  had  not  a  double  canoe  at  his  com- 
mand, or  he  would  cheerfully  provide  one.  I  therefore  walked  on  to 
Pueo,  on  the  western  shore,  where,  for  six  dollars,  I  hired  one  of 
Kapapa,  chief  of  the  place,  to  take  us  between  twenty  and  twenty-five 
miles. 

TOLL  CHARGED  FOR  CROSSING  WAILUKU  RIVER. 

Returning  from  Pueo,  I  visited  Wairuku,  a  beautiful  stream  of 
water  flowing  rapidly  over  a  rocky  bed,  with  frequent  falls,  and  many 
places  eligible  for  the  erection  of  water-mills  of  almost  any  descrip- 
tion. Makoa  and  the  natives  pointed  out  a  square  rock  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream,  on  which,  during  the  reign  of  Tamehameha,  and 
former  kings,  a  toll  used  to  be  paid  by  every  traveller  who  passed 
over  the  river. 

AVhenever  any  one  approached  the  stream,  he  stood  on  the  brink, 
and  called  to  the  collector  of  the  toll,  who  resided  on  the  opposite 
side.  He  came  down  with  a  broad  piece  of  board,  which  he  placed 
on  the  rock  above  mentioned.  Those  who  wished  t.>  cross  me1  him 
there,  and  deposited  on  the  board  whatever  articles  had  lie  n  brought; 

1G 


242 

and  if  satisfactory,  the  person  was  allowed  to  pass  the  river.  It  did 
not  appear  that  any  uniform  toll  was  required;  the  amount,  or  value, 
being  generally  left  to  the  collector. 

The  natives  said  it  was  principally  regulated  by  the  rank  or  num- 
ber of  those  who  passed  over. 

In  order  the  better  to  accommodate  passengers,  all  kinds  of  per- 
manently valuable  articles  were  received.  Some  paid  in  native  tapa 
and  mats,  or  baskets,  others  paid  a  hog,  a  dog,  some  fowls,  a  roll  of 
tobacco,  or  a  quantity  of  dried  salt  fish. 

MARKET   FAIRS    HELD   AT   HILO. 

The  river  of  Wairuku  was  also  distinguished  by  the  markets  or  fairs 
held  at  stated  periods  on  its  banks.  At  those  times  the  people  of 
Puna,  and  the  desolate  shores  of  Kau,  even  from  the  south  point  of 
the  island,  brought  mats,  and  mamake  tapa,  which  is  a  remarkably 
strong  black  or  brown  native  cloth,  for  the  manufacture  of  which 
the  inhabitants  of  Ora,  and  some  of  the  inland  parts  of  Puna,  are 
celebrated  throughout  the  whole  group  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It 
is  made  of  a  variety  of  the  morus  papyrifera,  which  grows  sponta- 
neously in  those  parts.  These,  together  with  vast  quantities  of  dried 
salt  fish,  were  ranged  along  on  the  south  side  of  the  ravine. 

The  people  of  Hiro  and  Hamakua,  as  far  as  the  north  point, 
brought  hogs,  tobacco,  tapa  of  various  kinds,  large  mats  made  of 
the  pandanus  leaves,  and  bundles  of  ai  pa,  which  were  collected  on 
the  north  bank.  Ai  pai,  (hard  food).  A  kind  of  food  made  of  baked 
taro,  pounded  together  without  water.  When  properly  prepared,  it  is 
wrapped  in  green  ti  leaves,  and  tied  up  in  bundles  containing  from 
twenty  to  forty  pounds  each;  in  this  state  it  will  remain  several 
months  without  injury.  From  bank  to  bank  the  traders  shouted  to 
each  other,  and  arranged  the  preliminaries  of  their  bargains.  From 
thence  the  articles  were  taken  down  to  the  before-mentioned  rock 
in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  which  in  this  place  is  almost  covered 
with  large  stones.  Here  they  were  examined  by  the  parties  imme- 
diately concerned,  in  the  presence  of  the  collectors,  who  stood  on 
each  side  of  the  rock,  and  were  the  general  arbiters,  in  the  event 
of  any  disputes  arising.  To  them  also  was  committed  the  preserva- 
tion of  good  order  during  the  fair,  and  they,  of  course,  received  a 
suitable  remuneration  from  the  different  parties. 

On  the  above  occasions,  the  banks  of  the  Wairuku  must  often 
have  presented  an  interesting  scene,  in  the  bustle  of  which  these 
clerks  of  the  market  must  have  had  no  inconsiderable  share. 

According  to  the  account  of  the  natives,  this  institution  was  in 
force  till  the  accession  of  Kihoriho,  the  late  king,  since  which  time 
it  has  been  abolished. 


243 

In  the  afternoon  I  called  on  Maaro,  and  found  him  very  ill,  and 
averse  to  conversation.  His  wives  sat  in  the  same  room  playing  at 
cards,  and  apparently  too  intent  on  their  game  to  be  easily  diverted. 

A    CASE    OF    INFANTICIDE — JUSTIFIED    BY    KAMEHAMEHA. 

About  twelve  years  ago,  a  shocking  instance  of  infanticide  occurred 
in  this  district,  exhibiting,  in  a  most  affecting  manner,  the  unre- 
strained violence  of  malignant  passion,  and  the  want  of  parental 
affection,  which  so  often  characterize  savage  life. 

A  man  and  his  wife,  tenants  of  Mr.  Young,  who  has  for  many 
years  held,  under  the  king,  the  small  district  of  Kukuwau,  situated 
on  the  centre  of  Waiakea  bay,  resided  not  far  from  Maaro 's  house. 
They  had  one  child,  a  fine  little  boy.  A  quarrel  arose  between  them 
on  one  occasion  respecting  this  child.  The  wife  refusing  to  accede 
to  the  wishes  of  the  husband,  he,  in  revenge,  caught  up  the  child 
by  the  head  and  the  feet,  broke  its  back  across  his  knee,  and  then 
threw  it  down  in  expiring  agonies  before  her. 

Struck  with  the  atrocity  of  the  act,  Mr.  Young  seized  the  man,  led 
him  before  the  king,  Tamehameha,  who  was  then  at  Waiakea,  and 
requested  that  he  might  be  punished. 

The  king  inquired,  "To  whom  did  the  child  he  has  murdered  be- 
long?" 

Mr.  Young  answered,  that  it  was  his  own  son. 

"Then,"  said  the  king,  "neither  you  nor  I  have  any  right  to  in- 
terfere; I  cannot  say  any  thing  to  him." 

PREVALENCE    OF    INFANTICIDE    IN    HAWAII. 

We  have  long  known  that  the  Sandwich  Islanders  practised  in- 
fanticide, but  had  no  idea  of  the  extent  to  which  it  prevailed,  until 
we  had  made  various  inquiries  during  our  present  tour,  and  had  con- 
versed with  Karaimoku,  Kapiolani,  the  governor,  and  several  other 
chiefs,  who,  though  formerly  unwilling  to  converse  on  the  subject, 
have,  since  their  reception  of  Christianity,  become  more  commu- 
nicative. 

It  prevails  throughout  all  the  islands,  and,  with  tho  exception  of 
the  higher  class  of  chiefs,  is,  as  far  as  we  could  learn,  practised  by 
all  ranks  of  the  people. 

However  numerous  the  children  among  the  lower  orders,  parents 
seldom  rear  more  than  two  or  three,  and  many  spare  only  one;  all 
the  others  are  destroyed  sometimes  shortly  after  birth,  generally  dur- 
ing the  first  year  of  their  age. 

The  means  by  which  it  is  accomplished,  though  numerous,  it  would 
be  improper  to  describe.  Kuakini,  the  governor  of  the  Island,  in  a 
conversation  I  had   with   him   at   Kairua,   cniiincratrd    many   diflVrmt 


244 

methods,  several  of  which  frequently  proved  fatal  to  the  mother  also. 
Sometimes  they  strangle  their  children,  but  more  frequently  bury 
them  alive. 

INFANTICIDE    IN    SOCIETY    ISLANDS. 

Among  the  Society  Islanders,  who,  while  they  were  idolaters,  prob- 
ably practised  infanticide  more  than  any  other  natives  in  the  Pacific, 
if  the  intended  victim  survived  only  one  day,  and  frequently  not 
more  than  a  few  hours,  it  was  generally  saved. 

Depraved  as  they  were,  they  could  not  afterwards  sacrifice  to  a 
barbarous  custom  an  innocent  babe,  who  seemed  to  look  with  con- 
fidence to  its  mother  or  its  nurse,  and  unconsciously  smiled  upon  those 
who  stood  by:  hence  the  parties  interested  in  the  child's  destruction, 
which  were  the  parents  themselves,  or  their  relations,  generally  stran- 
gled it  soon  after  its  birth. 

ESTIMATE  TWO-THIRDS  OF  CHILDREN  WERE  KILLED. 

But  among  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  the  infant,  after  living  a  week, 
a  month,  or  even  a  year,  was  still  insecure,  as  some  were  destroyed 
when  nearly  able  to  walk. 

It  is  painful  to  think  of  the  numbers  thus  murdered.  All  the 
information  we  have  been  able  to  obtain,  and  the  facts  that  have 
come  to  our  knowledge  in  the  neighbourhood  where  we  resided,  afford 
every  reason  to  believe,  that  from  the  prevalence  of  infanticide 
two-thirds   of  the   children  perished. 

We  have  been  told  by  some  of  the  chiefs,  on  whose  word  we  can 
depend,  that  they  have  known  parents  to  murder  three  or  four  infants 
where  they  have  spared  one.  But  even  supposing  that  not  more 
than  half  the  children  were  thus  cut  off,  what  an  awful  spectacle  of 
depravity  is  presented!  how  many  infants  must  have  been  annually 
sacrificed  to  a  custom  so  repugnant  to  all  the  tenderest  feelings  of 
humanity,  that,  without  the  clearest  evidence,  we  should  not  believe 
it  would  be  found  in  the  catalogue  of  human  crimes. 

REASONS  FOR  INFANTICIDE. 

The  reasons  they  give  for  this  practice  manifest  a  degree  of  de- 
pravity no  less  affecting. 

Among  the  Marquesians,  who  inhabit  a  group  of  islands  to  the 
southeast  of  Hawaii,  we  are  told  that  children  are  sometimes,  during 
seasons  of  extreme  scarcity,  killed  and  eaten  by  their  parents,  to 
satisfy  hunger. 

With  the  Society  Islanders,  the  rules  of  the  Areoi  institutions,  and 
family  pride,  were  the  principal  motives  to  its  practice. 

If  the  rank  or  family  of  the  mother  was  inferior  to  that  of  the 
father,  his  relations  or  friends  usually  destroyed  the  child. 


245 

More  frequently,  however,  the  mother's  rank  was  superior  to  that 
of  the  father.  In  this  case,  her  relations,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
degradation  which  they  supposed  it  would  entail  on  their  family  or 
class  in   society,   almost  invariably  murdered  the   child. 

The  regulations  of  the  Areoi  society  were  not  only  abominable  and 
vicious,  but  exceedingly  cruel,  and,  excepting  the  chiefs,  the  members 
usually  destroyed  their  offspring;  and  the  rearing  of  any  was  con- 
sidered   a    degradation. 

The  reason  generally  assigned  for  this  was,  that  nursing  children 
quickly  diminished  the  personal  charms   of  the  mother. 

Excepting  the  latter,  which  operates  in  a  small  degree,  none  of 
these  motives  actuate  the  Sandwich  Islanders;  those,  however,  by 
which  they  are  influenced  are  equally  criminal. 

Some  of  the  natives  have  told  us  that  children  were  formerly 
sacrificed  to  the  sharks  infesting  their  shores,  and  which  through  fear 
they  had  deified;  but  as  we  have  never  met  with  persons  who  have 
ever  offered  any,  or  seen  others  do  it,  this  possibly  may  be  only 
report. 

LAZINESS  PRINCIPAL   REASON  FOR  INFANTICIDE. 

The  principal  motive  with  the  greater  part  of  those  who  practise 
it,  is  idleness;  and  the  reason  most  frequently  assigned,  even  by  the 
parents  themselves,  for  the  murder  of  their  children,  is,  the  trouble 
of  bringing  them  up. 

In  general  they  are  of  a  changeable  disposition,  fond  of  a  wan- 
dering manner  of  life,  and  find  their  children  a  restraint,  pre- 
venting them,  in  some  degree,  from  following  their  roving  incli- 
nations. 

Like  other  savage  nations,  they  are  averse  to  any  more  labour  than 
is  absolutely  necessary.  Hence  they  consider  their  children  a  burden, 
and  are  unwilling  to  cultivate  a  little  more  ground,  or  undertake  the 
small  additional  labour  necessary  to  the  support  of  their  offspring 
during  the  helpless  periods  of  infancy  and  childhood. 

In  some  cases,  when  the  child  has  been  sickly,  and  the  parents 
have  grown  tired  of  nursing  and  attending  it,  they  have  been  known, 
in  order  to  avoid  further  attendance  and  care,  to  bury  it  at  once; 
and  we  have  been  credibly  informed  that  children  have  been  buried 
alive,  merely  because  of  the  irritation  they  have  discovered. 

BURIED   ALIVE  IN   FLOOR   OF   HOUSE. 

On  these  occasions,  when  the  child  has  cried  more  than  the  parents, 
particularly  the  mother,  could  patiently  hoar,  instead  of  clasping  the 
little  sufferer  to  her  bosom,  and  soothing  by  careSBea  the  pains  which, 
though  unable  to  tell  them,  it  has  probably  felt,  she  has,  to  free  her- 
self from  this  annoyance,  stopped   its  cries  by  thrusting  a  piece  of 


246 

tapa  into  its  mouth,  dug  a  hole  in  the  floor  of  the  house,  and,  per- 
haps within  a  few  yards  of  her  bed,  and  the  spot  where  she  took 
her  daily  meals,  has  relentlessly  buried,  in  the  untimely  grave,  her 
helpless  babe. 

The  Society  Islanders  buried  the  infants  they  destroyed  among  the 
bushes,  at  some  distance  from  their  houses;  but  many  of  the  infants 
in  the  Sandwich  Islands  are  buried  in  the  houses  in  which  both 
parents  and  child  had  resided  together. 

In  the  floors,  which  are  frequently  of  earth  or  pebbles,  a  hole  is 
dug,  two  or  three  feet  deep,  into  which  they  put  the  little  infant, 
placed  in  a  broken  calabash,  and  having  a  piece  of  native  cloth  laid 
upon  its  mouth  to  stop  its  cries.  The  hole  is  then  filled  up  with  earth, 
and  the  inhuman  parents  themselves  have  sometimes  joined  in  tread- 
ing down  the  earth  upon  their  own  innocent  but  murdered  child. 

INDIFFERENCE    OF    NATIVES    CONCERNING    INFANTICIDE. 

The  bare  recital  of  these  acts  of  cruelty  has  often  filled  our 
minds  with  horror,  while  those  who  have  been  engaged  in  the  per- 
petration of  them,  have  related  all  their  tragical  circumstances  in 
detail  with  apparent  unconcern. 

What  an  affecting  view  does  this  practice  exhibit  of  human  nature, 
unaided  by  the  light  of  revelation,  uninfluenced  by  the  mild  spirit  of 
true  religion,  and  under  the  debasing  influence  of  cruel  superstition. 

To  what  an  abject  state  of  moral  degradation  must  a  people,  in 
many  respects  extremely  interesting,  be  reduced,  to  perpetrate,  with- 
out compunction,  such  atrocities;  and  what  a  painful  and  humiliating 
demonstration  do  they  afford  of  the  truth  of  the  scripture  declara- 
tion, that  "the  dark  places  of  the  earth  are  full  of  the  habitations 
of  cruelty." 

Instinct  teaches  animals  to  take  care  of  their  offspring;  even  the 
savage  tiger  roams  the  forest  to  provide  for  her  young,  or  fearlessly 
meets  death  in  their  defence.  But  here,  where  so  many  advantages 
combine  to  increase  the  comforts  of  the  inhabitants,  infants  are 
destroyed  by  a  parent 's  hand. 

How  great  are  the  obligations  of  those  whose  lot  is  cast  in  coun- 
tries favoured  with  the  Bible,  to  whose  domestic  society  Christianity 
imparts  so  much  happiness.  And  how  consoling  to  know,  that  its 
principles,  wherever  imbibed,  will  produce,  even  in  the  most  bar- 
barous communities,  such  a  delightful  transformation  of  character, 
that  the  lion  and  leopard  shall  become  harmless  as  the  lamb  and  the 
kid,  "and  they  shall  neither  hurt  nor  destroy." 

CHRISTIANITY  TERMINATED  INFANTICIDE  IN  SOCIETY  ISLANDS. 
When   the   natives   of  the  Society  Islands   embraced   the   Christian 
religion,  they  immediately  refrained  from  this  practice.     The  infants 


247 

spared-  as  they  grew  up,  kindled  and  cherished  in  their  parents' 
bosoms  emotions  they  had  never  before  experienced.  They  became, 
in  general,  exceedingly  fond  of  their  children. 

I  have  seen  a  mother  or  a  father,  who  have  been  known  to  have 
murdered  several  children,  fondling  and  nursing  a  little  babe  with  a 
degree  of  tenderness,  that,  without  witnessing  it,  I  could  not  be- 
lieve would  have  been  felt  by  individuals  so  hardened  and  insensible 
as  they  had  formerly  been. 

As  parental  affection  increased,  they  began  to  view  with  abhorrence 
a  crime,  their  former  familiarity  with  which,  was  now  surprising  even 
to  themselves;  and,  in  order  to  mark  their  sense  of  its  enormity,  the 
very  first  article  in  the  code  of  laws  proposed  by  the  chiefs,  and 
adopted  by  the  people  in  most  of  the  Society  Islands,  shortly  after 
their  reception  of  Christianity,  is  a  prohibition  of  infanticide,  an- 
nexing the  punishment  of  death  to  its  perpetration  under  any  cir- 
cumstances whatever. 

ATTEMPTS  TO  ABOLISH  INFANTICIDE  IN  HAWAII. 

In  the  Sandwich  Islands,  although  not  abolished,  we  have  reason 
to  believe  it  prevails  less  extensively  now  than  it  did  four  or  five 
years  ago. 

The  king,  and  some  of  the  chiefs,  especially  Karaimoku,  since 
they  have  attended  to  the  precepts  of  Christianity,  and  have  been 
made  acquainted  with  the  direct  prohibitions  of  it  in  the  Bible,  have 
readily  expressed  in  public  their  conviction  of  its  criminality,  and 
that  committing  it  is  in  fact  pepehi  kanaka,  (to  kill  man,)  under  cir- 
cumstances which  aggravate  its  guilt.  They  have  also  been  led  to 
see  its  impolicy  with  respect  to  their  resources,  in  its  tendency  to 
depopulate  the  islands,  and  render  them  barren  or  unprofitable,  and, 
from  these  views,  have  lately  exerted  themselves  to  suppress  it. 

Karaimoku,  regent  of  the  islands,  has  more  than  once  forbidden 
any  parents  to  destroy  their  children,  and  has  threatened  to  punish 
with  banishment,  if  not  with  death,  any  who  shall  be  found  guilty 
of  it. 

ONLY    RECENTLY   THAT   CHIEFS    HAVE    OPPOSED    INFANTICIDE. 

After  we  left  Kairua,  on  our  present  tour,  Kuakini,  the  governor, 
published  among  all  the  people  under  his  jurisdiction,  a  strict  pro- 
hibition of  this  barbarous  custom.  It  is,  however,  only  recently  that 
the  chiefs  have  endeavoured  to  prevent  it,  and  the  people  do  not  very 
well  brook  their  interference;  so  that,  notwithstanding  their  efforts, 
it  is  still  practised,  particularly  in  remote  districts,  but  in  general 
privately,  for  fear  of  detection  and  punishment. 

The  check,  however,  which  infanticide  has  received  from  the 
humane  and  enlightened  policy  of  the  chiefs,  is  encouraging.     It  war- 


248 

rants  the  most  sanguine  expectations,  that  as  Christianity  advances 
among  the  Hawaiians,  this,  and  other  customs  equally  degrading  to 
their  character,  and  destructive  of  their  race,  will  be  entirely  laid 
aside,  as  has  been  the  case  among  the  Tahitians;  and  there  is  every 
reason  to  presume,  that  the  pleasing  change,  which  has  resulted  from 
the  general  reception  of  the  gospel  among  the  latter,  will,  under  the 
divine  blessing,  be  ultimately  realized  by  the  Sandwich  Islanders. 

May  that  happy  period  soon  arrive!  for  if  the  total  abolition  of 
this  cruel  practice  (though  amongst  the  least  of  its  benevolent  ob- 
jects) be  the  only  advantage  which  the  establishment  of  a  Christian 
Mission  in  these  distant  islands  shall  confer  on  their  inhabitants,  yet, 
in  rescuing  every  year,  through  all  the  succeeding  generations  of 
this  reviving  nation,  multitudes  from  a  premature  death,  the  liberal 
assistance  of  its  friends  and  the  labours  of  its  several  members  will 
be  most  amply  rewarded. 

KAHUNAS  ATTEMPT  TO  CURE   CHIEF. 

On  the  morning  of  the  13th  we  examined  some  of  the  eastern  parts 
of  the  bay.  I  also  visited  Maaro.  On  arriving  at  the  house  in  which 
I  had  left  the  sick  chief  yesterday,  the  natives  told  me  that  he  had 
been  removed,  that  the  house  where  he  then  was,  was  tabu,  and  the 
tabu  would  be  broken  if  I  should  go  there.  They  refused  to  tell  where 
he  was,  but  did  not  attempt  to  prevent  my  going  in  search  for  him. 

After  travelling  a  mile  and  a  half  inland,  I  reached  the  house  in 
which  he  lay,  and  was  immediately  invited  to  enter.  The  number 
of  small  sticks,  with  the  leaves  of  the  ti  plant  fastened  round  them, 
which  I  saw  fixed  in  different  parts  of  the  house,  particularly  around 
the  mat  on  which  the  chief  was  reclining,  induced  me  to  think  they 
had  been  performing  some  incantation  for  his  recovery,  or  were  pre- 
paring for  one. 

I  asked  one  who  sat  by,  and  who,  I  supposed,  was  a  kahuna,  (doc- 
tor,) what  remedies  they  were  using  for  his  recovery;  but  they  gave 
me  no  answer.  The  chief  seemed  to  have  less  pain  than  yesterday, 
and  was  much  more  communicative.  He  said  the  native  doctors  had 
brought  him  there  in  order  to  try  the  effect  of  medicines,  which  he 
trusted  would  give  relief. 

A   WARNING   AGAINST   INCANTATION. 

I  told  him  it  was  right  to  use  every  lawful  means  for  the  recovery 
of  health;  but  cautioned  him  particularly  against  having  recourse  to 
the  incantations  of  the  priests,  or  making  any  offerings  to  their  former 
gods,  as  that  was  not  only  foolish  and  useless,  but  offensive  to  God 
the  author  of  all  our  mercies,  with  whom  alone  were  the  issues  of  life 
and  death. 


249 

He  made  no  reply,  but  turned  the  conversation,  by  saying  he  re- 
gretted that  he  was  not  able  to  furnish  us  with  a  canoe,  and  that  his 
sickness  had  not  allowed  him  to  be  more  with  us. 

I  told  him  we  wished  to  have  had  more  frequent  opportunities  of 
telling  him  of  Jesus  Christ;  and  endeavouring  to  impress  his  mind 
with  the  necessity  of  an  early  application  for  the  pardon  of  his  sins, 
and  the  salvation  of  his  spirit.  When  I  left  him,  he  said  he  would 
think  of  these  things,  and,  should  he  get  better,  would  attend  to  in- 
struction, and  use  his  influence  to  induce  his  people  to  attend. 

THE   PRACTICE   OP  MEDICINE   AND   SORCERY. 

Maaro  was  attended  by  two  or  three  natives,  who  were  called 
kahuna  rapaau  mai,  the  name  given  to  those  who  undertake  to  cure 
diseases,  from  kahuna,  a  priest,  or  one  expert  in  his  profession, 
rapaau,    to    heal,    or    to    apply   medicine,    and    mai,    disease. 

Although  among  the  Sandwich  Islanders  there  are  none  who  ex- 
clusively devote  themselves  to  this  employment,  there  are  many 
who  pretend  to  great  skill  in  the  discovery  and  cure  of  diseases. 
They  are  usually,  as  their  name  imports,  priests  or  sorcerers,  and 
seldom  administer  medicine  unaccompanied  by  some  superstitious 
ceremony. 

The  knowledge  of  the  art  is  frequently  communicated  from  father 
to  son,  and  thus  continued  in  one  family.  In  their  practice  they  have 
different  departments,  and  those  who  are  successful  in  removing  in- 
ternal complaints  are  most  esteemed. 

Febrile  disorders  are  not  so  prevalent  as  in  many  tropical  climates, 
but  asthmatic  and  pulmonary  affections  are  frequent,  and  the  latter 
generally  baffle  all  their  skill. 

HAWAIIAN    MEDICINES    AND    MEDICAL    TREATMENT. 

"We  are  not  aware  that  they  admit  into  their  materia  medica  any 
but  vegetable  substances,  which  are  variously  prepared;  sometimes 
baked,  or  heated  in  a  cocoa-nut  shell,  but  often  applied  after  being 
simply  bruised  with  a  stone.  In  the  selection  and  employment  of 
these,  they  certainly  manifest  an  acquaintance  with  the  medicinal 
properties  of  a  number  of  indigenous  herbs  and  roots,  which  is  com- 
mendable, and  may  hereafter  be  turned  to  a  good  account. 

Several  of  their  applications,  simply  as  they  are  prepared,  are,  how- 
ever, very  powerful,  and  sometimes  fatal  in  their  effects.  They  had 
till  lately  no  means  of  employing  a  warm  bath,  but  frequently  steamed 
their  patients  on  an  oven  of  heated  stones,  or  placed  them  over  the 
6moke  of  a  fire  covered  with  green  succulent  herbs. 

They  have  also  a  singular  method  of  employing  friction  by  rolling 
a  stone  or  cannon  shot  over  the  part  in  pain. 


250 

I  went  one  day  into  a  house  belonging  to  Karaimoku,  where  a  chief 
was  lying  on  his  face,  and  the  kahuna,  or  his  attendant,  was  rolling 
a  cannon  shot  of  twelve  or  fourteen  pounds  weight  backwards  and 
forwards  along  his  back,  in  order  to  alleviate  the  pain. 

OCULISTS   AND   SURGERY. 

There  were  also  among  them  oculists,  who  were  celebrated  for  cur- 
ing diseases  of  the  eye,  and  who  were  sometimes  sent  for  by  persons 
residing  many  miles  distant.  But  in  surgery  they  seem  to  be  far 
behind  the  Society  Islanders. 

Their  operations  were  usually  performed  with  no  small  degree  of 
roughness  and  insensibility;  and  from  what  I  have  seen,  I  am  strongly 
inclined  to  think  that  the  sense  the  natives  have  of  pain  is  less  than 
ours,  or  their  powers  of  endurance  greater. 

In  setting  a  broken  leg  or  an  arm,  they  were  frequently  successful. 
Not  so,  however,  when  they  attempted,  as  was  sometimes  the  case, 
more  difficult  operations. 

They  relate,  that  when  some  of  their  warriors  have  had  the  bones 
of  their  head  fractured  by  a  blow  or  a  stone  in  battle,  they  have 
removed  the  pieces  of  bone,  fitted  in  a  piece  of  cocoa-nut  shell,  cov- 
ered the  skin  over,  and  that  the  patient  has  recovered;  but  although 
they  say  there  are  persons  living  on  whom  it  has  been  performed,  I 
never  saw  one,  and  can  hardly  credit  their  having  recovered,  though 
I  believe  they  performed  the  operation. 

DISPOSITION   OF   NATIVES   TOWARD   FOREIGN   MEDICINE   AND 
TREATMENT. 

The  chiefs,  and  many  of  the  natives,  who  are  accustomed  to  asso- 
ciate with  foreigners,  have  entirely  discarded  the  native  doctors;  and 
in  times  of  sickness  apply  to  the  physician  connected  with  the  Ameri- 
can mission,  to  the  surgeon  on  shore,  or  one  belonging  to  any  ship  in 
harbour,   and   shew   a  decided  preference   to  foreign  medicine. 

The  great  body  of  the  people,  however,  are  generally  averse  to  our 
remedies,  and  prefer  the  attendance  of  the  native  doctors.  The  em- 
ployment is  somewhat  profitable,  and  the  fee,  which  is  either  a  piece 
of  cloth,  a  mat,  a  pig,  or  dog,  &e.  is  usually  paid  before  the  kahuna 
undertakes  the  case. 

NATIVE   TRADITION   OF   ORIGIN   OF   ART   OF   MEDICINE. 

In  conversation  on  this  subject  with  the  governor  at  Kairua,  I  once 
asked  him  what  first  induced  them  to  employ  herbs,  &c.  for  the 
cure  of  diseases. 

He  said  that,  many  generations  back,  a  man  called  Koreamoku 
obtained  all  their  medicinal  herbs  from  the  gods,  who  also  taught  him 


251 

the  use  of  them:  that  after  his  death  he  was  deified,  and  a  wooden 
image  of  him  placed  in  the  large  temple  at  Kairua,  to  which  offerings 
of  hogs,  fish,  and  cocoa-nuts  were  frequently  presented. 

Oronopuha  and  Makanuiairono,  two  friends  and  disciples  of  Korea- 
moku,  continued  to  practise  the  art  after  the  death  of  their  master, 
and  were  also  deified  after  death,  particularly  because  they  were  fre- 
quently successful  in  driving  away  the  evil  spirits  by  which  the  peo- 
ple were  afflicted  and  threatened  with  death.  This  is  the  account 
they  have  of  the  first  use  of  herbs  medicinally;  and  to  these  deified 
men  the  prayers  of  the  kahuna  are  addressed,  when  medicine  is  ad- 
ministered to  the  sick. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  WAIAKEA  OR  BYRON'S  BAY. 

During  the  day  we  examined  various  parts  of  the  district  on  the 
western  side,  and  sounded  in  several  places  along  the  channel  leading 
into  the  bay.  The  district  of  Waiakea,  and  the  bay  of  the  same 
name,  the  "Whye-a-te-a  Bay  of  Vancouver,  form  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  division  of  Hiro,  are  situated  on  the  north-east  coast  of 
Hawaii,  and  distant  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  from  the  east- 
ern point  of  the  island.  Eecently  in  some  of  the  public  journals  this 
bay  has  been  called  Byron's  Bay,  having  been  visited  and  explored 
by  Captain  Lord  Byron,  on  his  late  voyage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands 
in  his  majesty's  ship  Blonde. 

The  highest  peak  of  Mouna-Kea  bears  due  west  from  the  sandy 
beach,  at  the  bottom  or  south  end  of  the  bay. 

In  the  centre,  or  rather  towards  the  south-east  side,  is  a  small 
island  connected  with  the  shore  by  a  number  of  rocks,  and  covered 
with  cocoa-nut  trees.  South-west  of  this  small  island  the  native  ves- 
sels usually  anchor,  and  are  thereby  sheltered  from  all  winds  to  the 
eastward  of  north-east.  The  bottom  is  good  across  the  whole  extent 
of  the  bay,  but  the  western  side  is  more  exposed  to  the  prevailing 
trade-winds. 

There  is  a  shoal  extending  perhaps  two  miles  from  the  above  men- 
tioned island.  It  is  therefore  necessary  in  going  into  the  harbour 
to  keep  near  the  western  shore,  which  is  very  bold;  the  water  is  deep, 
and  the  passage  free  from  rocks. 

RIVERS   EMPTYING   INTO   BAY. 

There  are  three  streams  of  fresh  water,  which  empty  themselves 
into  the  bay.  One  on  the  western  angle  is  called  Wairuku.  It  rises 
near  the  summit  of  Mouna-Kea,  and,  after  taking  a  circuitous  course 
for  several  miles,  runs  rapidly  into  the  sea. 

Two  others,  called  Wairama  and  Waiakea,  rise  in  springs,  boiling 
up  through  the  hollows  of  the  lava,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore, 


252 

fill  several  large  fish-ponds,  and  afterwards  empty  themselves  into  the 
sea.  Waiakea,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  is  tolerably  deep,  and  is 
navigated  by  canoes  and  boats  some  distance  inland. 

PRODUCTS  OF  WAJAKEA. 

The  face  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Waiakea  is  the  most 
beautiful  we  have  yet  seen,  which  is  probably  occasioned  by  the 
humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  the  frequent  rains  that  fall  here,  and 
the  long  repose  which  the  district  has  experienced  from  volcanic  erup- 
tions. 

The  light  and  fertile  soil  is  formed  by  decomposed  lava,  with  a 
considerable  portion  of  vegetable  mould.  The  whole  is  covered  with 
luxuriant  vegetation,  and  the  greater  part  of  it  formed  into  planta- 
tions, where  plantains,  bananas,  sugar-cane,  taro,  potatoes,  and  melons, 
grow  to  the  greatest  perfection. 

Groves  of  cocoa-nut  and  breadfruit  trees  are  seen  in  every  direction 
loaded  with  fruit,  or  clothed  with  umbrageous  foliage.  The  houses 
are  mostly  larger  and  better  built  than  those  of  many  districts 
through  which  we  had  passed.  We  thought  the  people  generally 
industrious;  for  in  several  of  the  less  fertile  parts  of  the  district 
we  saw  small  pieces  of  lava  thrown  up  in  heaps,  and  potato  vines 
growing  very  well  in  the  midst  of  them,  though  we  could  scarcely 
perceive  a  particle  of  soil. 

DUCKS  AND  FISH  IN  THE  PONDS. 

There  are  plenty  of  ducks  in  the  ponds  and  streams,  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  sea,  and  several  large  ponds  or  lakes  literally  swarm 
with  fish,  principally  of  the  mullet  kind.  The  fish  in  these  ponds  be- 
long to  the  king  and  chiefs,  and  are  tabued  from  the  common  people. 

Along  the  stone  walls  which  partly  encircle  these  ponds,  we  saw  a 
number  of  small  huts,  where  the  persons  reside  who  have  the  care  of 
the  fish,  and  are  obliged  frequently  to  feed  them  with  a  small  kind 
of  muscle,  which  they  procure  in  the  sands  round  the  bay. 

The  district  of  Waiakea,  though  it  does  not  include  more  than  half 
the  bay,  is  yet  extensive.  Kukuwau  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  is  its 
western  boundary,  from  which,  passing  along  the  eastern  side,  it  ex- 
tends ten  or  twelve  miles  towards  Kaau,  the  last  district  in  the  divi- 
sion of  Puna. 

RECOMMENDED   AS   A   MISSION    STATION. 

Taking  every  circumstance  into  consideration,  this  appears  a  most 
eligible  spot  for  a  missionary  station.  The  fertility  of  the  soil,  the 
abundance  of  fresh  water,  the  convenience  of  the  harbour,  the  dense 


253 

population,  and  the  favourable  reception  we  have  met  with,  all  com- 
bine to  give  it  a  stronger  claim  to  immediate  attention  than  any  other 
place  we  have  yet  seen,  except  Kairua. 

There  are  400  houses  in  the  bay,  and  probably  not  less  than  2000 
inhabitants,  who  would  be  immediately  embraced  in  the  operations 
of  a  missionary  station  here,  besides  the  populous  places  to  the  north 
and  south,  that  might  be  occasionally  visited  by  itinerant  preachers 
from  Waiakea. 

INTERVIEW   WITH   THREE   MARQUESANS. 

In  the  afternoon  I  preached  in  front  of  the  house  where  we  held 
our  worship  on  the  last  Sabbath.  There  were  three  Marquesians 
present,  who  arrived  here  but  a  few  weeks  ago.  After  the  service 
was  ended,  they  said  it  was  maitai,  or  good. 

I  asked  them  from  what  island  they  came.  They  said  "Fatu- 
hiva, "  (La  Magdalena,)  and  that  there  were  seven  white  men  and 
two  negroes  living  on  their  island,  but  they  did  not  tell  them  any 
thing  concerning  Jehovah  or  Jesus  Christ. 

I  then  asked  them  if  they  thought  their  countrymen  would  receive 
and  protect  Christian  teachers,  "Yes,"  they  all  answered,  "we  are 
sure  they  would."  "But  you  kill  and  eat  white  people;  missionaries 
would  not  be  safe  among  you."  They  seemed  affected  by  this  obser- 
vation, and,  after  a  moment's  pause,  exclaimed,  "O,  no!  O,  no!  you 
would  not  injure  us,  and  should  never  be  injured  by  us. ' ' 

These  strangers,  possessing  all  the  vivacity  natural  to  their  coun- 
trymen, could  not  fail  to  excite  in  our  minds  strong  feelings  of  in- 
terest; and  we  can  but  hope  a  Christian  mission  will  soon  be  es- 
tablished in  those  islands.  Many  advantages  might  be  expected  to 
result  from  it;  and,  among  others,  the  security  of  vessels  touching 
there  for  refreshments. 

MISSIONARY  EFFORT   IN   TAHITI  AND   MARQUESAS. 

The  natives  of  these  islands  have  frequently  sent  to  Tahiti  for 
teachers,  and,  since  the  above  was  written,  they  have  been  visited  by 
Mr.  Crook,  a  missionary,  who  was  in  1797  stationed  among  them,  but 
who  is  now  labouring  in  Tahiti.  The  natives  of  Tahuata  were 
favourably  disposed  towards  instruction,  and  three  native  teachers 
from  the  Society  Islands  were  left  among  them,  preparatory  to  the 
establishment  of  a  permanent  mission  in  the  Marquesas. 

It  is  truly  distressing  to  hear  so  frequently  of  the  murderous  quar- 
rels which  take  place  between  the  natives  of  the  Marquesas,  and  other 
islands  in  the  Pacific,  and  the  crews  of  ships  visiting  them;  which, 
we  think,  would  be  in  a  great  degree  prevented,  were  missionaries 
permanently  residing  among  them. 


254 

The  natives  are  sometimes  exceedingly  deceitful  and  treacherous 
in  their  dealings  with  foreigners,  and  the  conduct  of  the  latter  is  not 
always  such  as  to  inspire  confidence. 

The  missionaries  in  the  Society  Islands  have  often  been  the  means 
of  preventing  the  consequences  to  which  the  misunderstanding  of  the 
natives  and  foreigners  would  in  all  probability  have  led. 

A   DISHONEST   CAPTAIN. 

Once  in  particular,  about  four  years  ago,  a  captain,  who  had  never 
visited  them  before,  and  has  not  been  there  since,  touched  at  a  small 
island  to  the  south-west  of  Tahiti,  bargained  with  the  natives  for 
a  number  of  hogs,  agreeing  to  give  in  exchange  for  them  tools  or 
clothing. 

The  natives  carried  to  the  ship,  which  was  lying  off  and  on,  five  or 
six  large  hogs  in  a  canoe;  they  were  hoisted  in,  when,  instead  of  re- 
turning the  stipulated  articles,  the  captain  threw  down  into  their 
canoe  a  bundle  of  old  iron,  principally  iron  hoops,  cast  loose  the  rope 
by  which  they  held  on  to  the  ship,  and  sailed  away. 

The  natives  returned  to  the  shore;  a  council  was  held,  in  which  it 
was  agreed  to  take  revenge  on  the  first  ship  that  should  arrive.  In 
the  interim,  however,  a  missionary  from  one  of  the  Society  Islands, 
whom  they  had,,  long  known,  visited  them,  and  being  made  acquainted 
with  the  circumstances,  dissuaded  them  from  their  purpose,  promised 
to  make  up  their  loss,  and  thus,  in  all  probability,  the  death  of  several 
innocent  persons  was  prevented. 

THE   LAST   NIGHT   AT   WAIAKEA. 

While  we  were  engaged  in  worship  at  Waiakea,  Messrs.  Bishop 
and  Thurston  went  over  to  Pueho,  on  the  western  shore,  and  Mr. 
Thurston  preached  to  about  100  of  the  people  at  the  house  of  Kapapa, 
the  head  man.  When  the  service  was  ended,  Kapapa  accompanied 
them  to  the  east  side  of  the  bay,  in  the  double  canoe  which  had  been 
hired  to  convey  us  to  Laupahoehoe. 

As  we  intended  to  leave  Waiakea  early  in  the  morning,  I  paid  a 
farewell  visit  to  Maaro  this  evening.  The  chief  seemed  more  in- 
disposed than  when  I  last  saw  him,  was  restless,  and  apparently  in 
much  pain. 

After  spending  some  time  in  religious  conversation  with  Maaro 
and  his  household,  I  took  leave  of  them,  and  enjoyed  a  pleasant 
walk  back  through  the  lonely  village. 

The  noise  of  the  rolling  surf  on  the  distant  beach  was  occasionally 
heard;  the  passing  breeze  caused  a  frequent  rustling  among  the  slen- 
der leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut  groves;  while  the  rapid  stream  rippled 
over  its  pebbly  bed  in  several  places  close  by  the  path.     The  glim- 


255 

mering  lights  in  the  native  huts  shed  their  enlivening  rays  through 
the  thick  foliage  of  the  surrounding  gardens,  and  the  beating  of  the 
drum,  and  the  sound  of  the  hura,  with  transient  intervals  between, 
broke  upon  the  ear  from  several  directions. 

These  last,  though  far  more  agreeable  than  the  drunken  halloo, 
the  savage  war-cry,  or  the  horrid  yell  from  the  mysterious  and  dark 
heiau,  I  yet  could  not  but  hope  would  soon  be  exchanged  for  the 
words  of  inspired  truth,  read  aloud  from  the  holy  scriptures,  the 
cheerful  hymn  of  praise,  or  the  solemn  language  of  family  devotion, 
so  frequently  heard  from  the  lowly  Tahitian  cottage,  during  an 
evening  walk  through  the  happy  villages  of  the  Society  Islands. 

TRAVEL  BY  CANOE  TO  LAUPAHOEHOE. 

At  daybreak  on  the  14th,  after  morning  worship  with  the  people 
who  crowded  our  house,  we  made  arrangements  for  our  departure. 
Mr.  Harwood  remained,  to  return  to  Oahu  in  the  brig  Inore,  lying  at 
anchor  in  the  bay,  as  he  would  thereby  be  enabled  to  transact  some 
business  for  the  mission,  and  also  avoid  travelling  over  the  ravines 
of  Hiro  and  Hamakua. 

Soon  after  six  a.  m.  we  embarked  on  board  our  canoe,  and  passed 
over  the  reef  to  the  deep  water  on  the  western  side  of  the  bay.  The 
weather  was  calm,  and  the  men  laboured  with  their  paddles  till  about 
eight,  when  the  maranai  (east  wind)  sprung  up,  and  wafted  us  pleas- 
antly along  the  shore.  We  found  our  double  canoe  very  convenient, 
for  it  had  a  pora  (or  stage)  raised  in  the  middle,  which  provided  a 
comfortable  seat,  and  also  kept  our  packages  above  the  spray  of  the 
sea. 

HAWAIIAN    CANOES    DESCRIBED. 

The  pora  is  formed  by  tying  slight  poles  to  the  iako,  or  cross  pieces 
that  connect  the  two  canoes  together,  from  the  foremost  iako  to 
the  one  nearest  the  stern.  The  cross  pieces  are  not  straight,  but  bent 
like  a  bow,  and  form  an  arch  between  the  two  canoes,  which  raises 
the  pora  or  stage  at  least  two  feet  higher  than  the  sides  of  the  canoe. 

When  the  breeze  sprang  up,  four  of  the  men  laid  down  their  pad- 
dles, and  attended  to  the  sail,  while  one  man  sat  in  the  stern  of  each 
canoe  with  a  large  paddle  to  steer. 

Our  canoe,  though  made  of  heavy  wood,  was  thin,  and  consequently 
light,  and,  as  the  wind  increased,  seemed  at  a  rapid  rate  to  skim  along 
the  tops  of  the  waves;  dashing  through  the  crested  foam  with  a  de- 
gree of  velocity,  which,  but  for  the  confidence  we  reposed  in  the 
skill  and  address  of  our  pilots,  would  have  excited  no  small  degree 
of  apprehension  for  our  safety. 

The  canoes  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  appear  eminently  calculated 


256 

for  swiftness,  being  long,  narrow,  generally  light,  and  drawing  but 
little  water. 

SIZE  AND   FINISH  OP   CANOES. 

A  canoe  is  always  made  out  of  a  "single  tree;  some  of  them  are 
upwards  of  seventy  feet  long,  one  or  two  feet  wide,  and  sometimes 
more  than  three  feet  deep,  though  in  length  they  seldom  exceed 
fifty  feet. 

The  body  of  the  canoe  is  generally  covered  with  a  black  paint,  made 
by  the  natives  with  various  earthy  and  vegetable  materials,  in  which 
the  bark,  oil,  and  burnt  nuts  of  the  kukui  tree  are  the  principal 
ingredients. 

On  the  upper  edge  of  the  canoe  is  sewed,  in  a  remarkably  neat 
manner,  a  small  strip  of  hard  white  wood,  from  six  to  eight  inches 
in  width,  according  to  the  size  and  length  of  the  canoe.  These  strips 
meet  and  close  over  the  top  at  both  stem  and  stern,  and  shoot  off 
much  water  that  would  otherwise  enter  the  canoe. 

SPEED   OP   HAWAIIAN  CANOES— SAILING   AND   PADDLING. 

All  the  canoes  of  these  islands  are  remarkably  strong  and  neatly 
made;  and  though  not  so  large  as  those  of  New  Zealand,  the  Society 
Islands,  or  some  of  the  other  islands  to  the  southward,  are  certainly 
better  made;  and  would  probably  paddle  or  sail  faster  than  any  of 
them. 

One  man  will  sometimes  paddle  a  single  canoe  faster  than  a  good 
boat's  crew  could  row  a  whale-boat.  Their  tackling  is  simple  and 
convenient;  the  mast  generally  has  a  notch  cut  at  the  lower  end,  and 
is  placed  on  one  of  the  cross  pieces  to  which  it  is  tied;  the  sails  they 
now  use,  are  made  of  mats,  and  cut  in  imitation  of  the  sprit-sails  of 
foreign  boats,  which,  they  say,  they  find  much  better  than  the  kind 
of  sail  they  had  when  first  visited  by  foreigners. 

When  sailing  with  a  fresh  breeze,  the  ropes  from  the  lower  corners 
of  the  sails  are  always  loosened,  and  held  in  the  hands  of  persons 
whose  only  business  it  is  to  keep  them  properly  trimmed. 

Their  paddles,  which  are  large  and  strong,  are  generally  four  or 
five  feet  long,  have  an  oval-shaped  blade  and  round  handle,  and  are 
made  of  the  same  hard  and  heavy  wood  employed  in  building  their 
canoes.  They  are  not  handsome,  and  their  weight  must  make  pad- 
dling very  laborious. 

Neither  the  canoes  nor  paddles  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders  are  carved 
like  those  of  many  islands  in  the  Pacific.  Their  canoes  are,  never- 
theless, remarkably  neat,  and  sometimes  handsome. 


257 
DESCRIPTION  OF  HILO  DISTRICT. 

The  country,  by  which  we  sailed,  was  fertile,  beautiful,  and  appar- 
ently populous.  The  numerous  plantations  on  the  eminences  and  sides 
of  the  deep  ravines  or  valleys,  by  which  it  was  intersected,  with  the 
streams  meandering  through  them  into  the  sea,  presented  altogether 
a  most  agreeable  prospect.  The  coast  was  bold,  and  the  rocks  evi- 
dently volcanic.  "We  frequently  saw  the  water  gushing  out  of  hol- 
lows in  the  face  of  the  rocks,  or  flowing  in  cascades  from  the  top 
to  the  bottom. 

After  sailing  pleasantly  for  several  hours,  we  approached  Laupa- 
hoehoe:  we  had  proceeded  upwards  of  twenty  miles,  and  had  passed 
not  less  than  fifty  ravines  or  valleys,  but  we  had  not  seen  a  spot  where 
we  thought  it  would  be  possible  to  land  without  being  swamped;  and 
although  we  knew  we  had  arrived  at  the  end  of  our  voyage,  we  could 
discover  no  place  by  which  it  seemed  safe  to  approach  the  shore,  as 
the  surf  was  beating  violently,  and  the  wind  blowing  directly  towards 
the  land. 

LANDING  AT  LAUPAHOEHOE. 

However,  when  we  came  within  a  few  yards  of  the  surf,  we  per- 
ceived an  opening  in  the  rocks,  just  wide  enough  to  admit  our  canoe. 
Into  this  our  pilots  steered  with  uncommon  address  and  precision; 
and  before  we  could  look  round,  we  found  our  canoe  on  a  sandy 
beach,  a  few  yards  long,  entirely  defended  by  rocks  of  lava  from  the 
rolling  surf  on  the  outside. 

It  was  one  p.  m.  when  we  landed,  and  walked  up  to  the  house  of 
the  head  man,  where  we  had  a  few  fish  and  some  potatoes,  that  we 
had  brought  with  us,  prepared  for  dinner.  After  the  people  of  the 
place  had  been  spoken  to  on  the  subject  of  religion,  they  said  they 
had  heard  there  were  missionaries  living  at  Oahu,  teaching  the  king 
to  read,  and  write,  and  pray.  They  had  also  heard  of  Jehovah,  but 
not  of  Jesus  Christ.  It  was  compassionate  in  the  great  God,  they 
added,  to  think  of  them,  and  send  his  word  among  them. 

After  remaining  an  hour  or  two,  we  proposed  to  proceed,  but  could 
not  prevail  on  Makoa  to  go  any  further  that  night.  He  said  we  had 
come  far  enough  for  one  day,  and  had  better  stay  till  the  morning. 
He  also  complained  of  being  tired  with  bailing  out  the  canoe.  We 
knew  this  was  only  an  excuse,  and  that  the  principal  reason  why  he 
wished  to  stop  was  because  the  head  man  of  the  place  had  invited 
us  to  remain,  and  had  told  us  that  if  we  would  spend  the  night  there, 
he  would  have  a  pig  and  some  taro  cooked.  Makoa  could  not  agree 
to  lose  the  benefit  of  this  offer;  but  as  we  were  refreshed,  and  thought 
it  best  to  proceed,  we  thanked  the  chief  for  his  kindness,  and,  finding 

17 


258 

our  guide  determined  to  stay,  we  took  each  a  blanket  for  a  covering 
at  night,  and  resumed  our  journey. 

FROM  LAUPAHOEHOE  TO   HUMUULA. 

Leaving  Laupahoehoe,  we  ascended  the  north  side  of  the  deep 
ravine,  at  the  bottom  of  which  the  village  is  situated.  We  reached 
the  top  after  climbing  between  400  and  500  feet,  and  beheld  a 
beautiful  country  before  us.  Over  this  we  travelled  about  five  miles 
in  a  W.  N.  W.  direction  towards  the  foot  of  Mouna-Kea,  and  after 
passing  three  deep  ravines,  reached  Humuula  shortly  before  sun-set. 

This  retired  little  village  is  situated  on  the  edge  of  a  wood,  ex- 
tending along  the  base  of  Mouna-Kea.  We  directed  our  steps  to 
the  principal  house  in  the  village,  and  invited  the  people  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood to  meet  us  there.  They  soon  collected,  and  listened  with 
apparent  interest  to  a  short  discourse.  Many  continued  with  us  till 
a  late  hour  in  conversation,  which  to  them  is  usually  a  source  of  no 
small  gratification. 

HAWAIIAN   CUSTOM   TO   TALK   AND   SING   ALL   NIGHT 

We  have  several  times  during  our  tour  been  kept  awake  by  the 
natives  in  the  houses  where  we  lodged,  who  have  continued  talking 
and  singing  till  near  daybreak.  Circumstances  the  most  trivial  some- 
times furnish  conversation  for  hours.  Their  songs  also  afford  much 
amusement,  and  it  is  no  unusual  thing  for  the  family  to  entertain 
their  guests  with  these,  or  for  strangers  to  gratify  their  host  by  re- 
citing those  of  their  own  island  or  neighbourhood. 

More  than  once,  when  we  have  entered  a  house,  some  of  the  inmates 
have  shortly  afterwards  commenced  a  song,  accompanied  occasionally 
by  a  little  drum,  or  the  beating  of  the  raau  hura,  musical  stick;  and 
the  natives,  who  formerly  visited  Hawaii  from  the  Society  Islands,  ex- 
cited no  small  degree  of  interest  by  reciting  the  songs  of  their 
country. 

It  is  probable  that  many  of  the  fabulous  tales  and  songs  so  popular 
among  them,  have  originated  in  the  gratification  they  find  in  thus 
spending  their  time.  This  kind  of  amusement  is  common  to  most  of 
the  South  Sea  Islands. 

HABITS   OF    SONG,    CONVERSATION   AND   GOSSIP   IN   THE   PACIFIC. 

The  Sandwich  Islanders  equal  the  Marquesians,  the  most  lively 
natives  of  the  Pacific,  in  the  number  of  their  songs,  and  exceed  the 
Society  Islanders;  but  their  conversational  powers  are  inferior  to 
those  of  the  latter,  who  are  perhaps  the  most  loquacious  of  them  all. 

An    acquaintance    with    every   body's   business    used    almost   to   be 


259 

cultivated  as  an  accomplishment;  and  inquiries,  which,  to  us  would 
appear  most  officious,  were  only  common  civilities.  To  meet  a  party, 
and  not  ask  where  they  came  from,  or  where  they  were  going,  what 
was  their  business,  and  when  they  intended  to  return,  would  be  con- 
sidered indicative  of  displeasure  towards  the  party  thus  neglected,  or 
at  least  of  want  of  interest  in  their  welfare. 

HOSPITALITY  OF  HAWAIIAN'S  AND   SOUTH  SEA  ISLANDERS. 

Our  hostess,  who  was  a  widow,  treated  us  kindly,  and  between 
seven  and  eight  brought  in  for  supper  a  small  baked  pig,  and  a  large 
dish  of  taro.  This  was  the  more  grateful,  as  it  had  not  been  required 
by  Makoa  in  the  governor's  name,  but  was  furnished  by  the  genuine 
hospitality  which  characterizes  the  South  Sea  Islanders,  though  not 
practised  so  much  by  the  Hawaiians  as  by  some  other  tribes  in  the 
Pacific,  and  we  believe  much  less  now  than  when  the  Sandwich 
Islands  were  first  discovered,  or  during  the  earlier  visits  they  re- 
ceived. 

They  are  still,  however,  a  hospitable  people,  and  even  the  poorest 
would  generally  share  their  scanty  dish  of  potatoes  with  a  stranger. 

Not  to  entertain  a  guest  with  what  they  have,  is,  among  themselves, 
considered  reproachful;  and  there  are  many,  who,  if  they  had  but  one 
pig  or  fowl  in  the  yard,  or  one  root  of  potatoes  in  the  garden,  would 
cheerfully  take  them  to  furnish  a  repast  for  a  friend.  This  generous 
disposition  is  frequently  abused,  and  encourages  the  rambling  manner 
of  life  of  which  many  are  so  fond. 

HAWAIIAN   SOCIAL  CUSTOMS. 

It  is  not  unusual  for  a  family,  when  they  have  planted  their  field 
with  sweet  potatoes,  &c.  to  pay  a  visit  for  four  or  five  months  to 
some  friend  in  a  distant  part  of  the  island.  When  the  crop  is  ripe 
they  travel  home  again,  and  in  return  are  most  likely  visited  by  a 
friend,  who  will  not  think  of  leaving  them  so  long  as  any  of  their 
provisions  remain  unconsumed.  This,  however,  is  only  the  case  where 
friendship  has  previously  existed  between  the  parties. 

A  transient  visitor  on  arriving  among  them  will  generally  have  an 
entertainment  provided,  of  which  the  persons  who  furnish  it  seldom 
partake.  The  family  with  which  we  lodged  were,  however,  induced 
to  join  us  this  evening  at  supper,  though  contrary  to  their  ideas  of 
propriety. 

Whenever  we  have  remarked  to  the  natives  that  their  conduct  in 
this  respect  is  unsocial,  they  have  usually  answered,  "Would  it  be 
right  for  us  to  present  food  to  our  friends,  and  then  sit  down  and  eat 
of  it  ourselves?" 


260 

Connected  with  this,  another  custom,  equally  at  variance  with  our 
views  of  hospitality,  is  practised  by  the  guests,  who  invariably  carry 
away  all  that  remains  of  the  entertainment,  however  abundant  it  may 
have  been.  Hence,  whenever  a  pig,  &c.  has  been  dressed  for  us, 
and  our  party  have  finished  their  meal;  our  boys  always  put  the  re- 
mainder into  their  baskets,  and  carried  it  away.  To  this  we  often 
objected:  but  they  usually  replied,  "It  is  our  custom;  and  if  we  don't 
take  it,  the  people  will  think  you  are  dissatisfied  with  what  they 
have  provided." 

The  entertainment  given  to  strangers  or  visitors  is  regulated  by 
the  means  of  the  host,  or  the  rank  of  the  guests. 

SOCIAL   CUSTOMS   OP   SOCIETY   ISLANDERS. 

In  the  Society  Islands  their  feasts  were  formerly  characterized  by 
a  degree  of  prodigality  extremely  oppressive  to  the  people  who  had 
to  furnish  the  provisions. 

I  once  saw  in  the  island  of  Raiatea  upwards  of  fifty  large  baked 
hogs,  and  a  proportionate  quantity  of  poe,  yams,  &c.  served  up  at 
one  time  for  a  party  of  chiefs  on  a  visit  from  the  Georgian  or  Wind- 
ward Islands. 

DOGS  THE   PRINCIPAL  MEAT. 

In  this  respect  the  Sandwich  Islanders  are  not  behind  their  southern 
neighbours,  but  in  their  feasts  the  flesh  of  the  dog  constitutes  the 
principal  meat. 

I  have  seen  nearly  two  hundred  dogs  cooked  at  one  time;  and  dur- 
ing the  last  visit  which  Taumuarii,  late  king  of  Tauai,  and  Kaahu- 
manu  his  queen,  paid  Kuakini,  the  governor  of  this  island,  a  feast 
was  prepared  for  them  by  the  latter,  at  which  Auna  was  present,  and 
counted  four  hundred  baked  dogs,  with  fish  and  hogs,  and  vegetables 
in  proportion. 

Sometimes  the  food  is  spread  out  on  the  ground,  which  is  previously 
covered  with  grass  or  green  leaves;  the  party  sit  down  around  it,  and 
the  chiefs  distribute  it  among  them,  after  the  servants  have  carved 
it  with  a  knife,  or  with  a  piece  of  bamboo  cane,  which,  before 
visited  by  foreigners,  was  the  only  kind  of  knife  they  possessed. 

DIVISION   OP  FOOD  AT  A  FEAST. 

The  serrated  edge  of  the  hard  bamboo  cane,  when  but  recently 
split,  is  very  sharp;  and  we  have  often  been  surprised  at  the  facility 
with  which  they  cut  up  a  large  hog  with  no  other  instrument. 

The  head  of  a  hog,  or  at  least  the  brains,  were  always  offered  to 
the  principal  chief  of  the  party;  particular  parts  were  given  to  the 


261 

priests,  if  any  were  present;  while  the  backbone  and  the  tail  were 
the  usual  perquisites  of  the  person  who  carved. 

In  general,  however,  when  such  large  presents  of  food  are  made, 
each  hog  or  dog  when  baked  is  put  into  a  distinct  basket,  and  piled 
up  in  heaps  in  the  court-yard,  in  front  of  the  house  where  the  chief 
is  residing;  the  fish,  dogs,  and  vegetables,  in  separate  heaps. 

"When  collected,  the  chief  conies  out  to  look  at  it,  and  those  who 
have  brought  it  retire.  He  then  calls  his  stewards — directs  them  to 
select  a  portion  for  his  own  table — distributes  some  among  the  chiefs 
in  the  neighbourhood,  in  which  the  chief  who  has  provided  the  feast 
is  frequently  included — and  divides  the  rest  among  his  own  followers, 
who  sometimes  amount  to  two  or  three  hundred. 

DOG  FARMS. 

Numbers  of  dogs,  of  rather  a  small  size,  and  something  like  a  ter- 
rier, are  raised  every  year  as  an  article  of  food.  They  are  mostly 
fed  on  vegetables;  and  we  have  sometimes  seen  them  kept  in  yards, 
with  small  houses  to  sleep  in. 

A  part  of  the  rent  of  every  tenant  who  occupies  land,  is  paid  in 
dogs  for  his  landlord's  table. 

Though  often  invited  by  the  natives  to  join  them  in  partaking  of 
the  baked  dog,  we  were  never  induced  to  taste  of  one.  The  natives, 
however,  say  it  is  sweeter  than  the  flesh  of  the  pig,  and  much  more 
palatable  than  that  of  goats  or  kids,  which  some  refuse  to  touch, 
and  few  care  to  eat. 

These  feasts  are  much  less  frequent  than  formerly,  particularly 
among  those  chiefs  who  have  opportunities  for  frequent  inter- 
course with  foreigners,  several  of  whom  now  spread  their  table  in 
the  European  manner,  and  invite  their  friends  to  dine,  or  entertain 
their  guests  at  home,  and  treat  them  as  members  of  their  family 
while  they  remain  under  their  roof. 

Several  members  of  the  family  we  had  lodged  with,  united  with 
us  in  our  morning  worship  on  the  15th,  after  which  we  breakfasted 
together. 

While  thus  engaged,  Makoa  arrived  with  our  baggage,  and  about 
eight  a.  m.  we  were  ready  to  proceed.  Unwilling  that  our  hostess 
should  suffer  by  her  kindness,  we  presented  her  with  as  much  blue 
cotton  cloth  as  would  amply  pay  for  the  supper  she  had  generously 
furnished  last  evening,  and  then  set  out  on  our  journey. 

TRAMPING    FROM    I1ILO    TO     BAMAKTJA. 

The  wide-extended  prospect  which  our  morning  walk  afforded,  of 
the  ocean,  and  the  shores  of  Hamakua  on  our  right,  was  agreeably 
diversified  by  the  occasional  appearance  of  the  snow-capt  peaks  of 


262 

Mouna-Kea,  seen  through  the  openings  in  the  trees  on  our  left.  The 
body  of  the  mountain  was  hid  by  the  wood,  and  the  different  peaks 
only  appeared  like  so  many  distinct  hills  at  a  great  distance.  The 
highest  peak  bore  S.  W.  by  S.  from  Humuula. 

The  high  land  over  which  we  passed  was  generally  woody,  though 
the  trees  were  not  large.  The  places  that  were  free  from  wood, 
were  covered  with  long  grass  and  luxuriant  ferns.  The  houses  mostly 
stood  singly,  and  were  scattered  over  the  face  of  the  country. 

A  rich  field  of  potatoes  or  taro,  five  or  six  acres  sometimes  in  ex- 
tent, or  large  plantations  of  sugar-cane  and  bananas,  occasionally 
bordered  our  path.  But  though  the  soil  was  excellent,  it  was  only 
partially  cultivated.  The  population  also  appeared  less  than  what 
we  had  seen  inhabiting  some  of  the  most  desolate  parts  of  the  island. 

About  10  a.  m.  we  reached  the  pleasant  and  verdant  valley  of 
Kaura,  which  separates  the  divisions  of  Hilo  and  Hamakua. 

HOW  BOUNDARIES  ARE   MARKED. 

The  geographical  divisions  of  Hawaii,  and  the  other  islands  of  the 
group,  are  sometimes  artificial,  and  a  stone  image,  a  line  of  stones 
somewhat  distant  from  each  other,  a  path,  or  a  stone  wall,  serves 
to  separate  the  different  districts,  or  larger  divisions,  from  each 
other.  They  are,  however,  more  frequently  natural,  as  in  the  present 
instance,  where  a  watercourse,  winding  through  the  centre  of  the 
valley,  marked  the  boundary  of  these  two  divisions.  The  boundary 
of  the  smaller  districts,  and  even  the  different  farms,  as  well  as  the 
large  divisions,  are  definitely  marked,  well  understood,  and  permanent. 

Each  division,  district,  village,  and  farm,  and  many  of  the  sites  of 
houses,  have  a  distinct  name,  which  is  often  significant  of  some 
object   or  quality  distinguishing  the  place. 

WORSHIP   OF  PELE    STILL   PRACTISED. 

On  descending  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  we  reached  a  heiau 
dedicated  to  Pele,  with  several  rude  stone  idols,  wrapped  up  in  white 
and  yellow  cloth,  standing  in  the  midst  of  it.  A  number  of  wreaths 
of  flowers,  pieces  of  sugar-cane,  and  other  presents,  some  of  which 
were  not  yet  faded,  lay  strewed  around,  and  we  were  told  that  every 
passing  traveller  left  a  trifling  offering  before  them. 

Once  in  a  year,  we  were  also  informed,  the  inhabitants  of  Hama- 
kua brought  large  gifts  of  hogs,  dogs,  and  fruit,  when  the  priests 
and  kahu  of  Pele  assembled  to  perform  certain  rites,  and  partake  of 
the  feast. 

This  annual  festival,  we  were  told,  was  designed  to  propitiate  the 
volcanic  goddess,  and  secure  their  country  from  earthquakes,  or  inun- 
dations   of   lava.      Locks    of   human    hair   were    among:   the    offerings 


263 

made  to  Pele.  They  were  frequently  presented  to  this  goddess  by 
those  who  passed  by  the  crater  of  Kirauea,  on  which  occasions  they 
were  thrown  into  the  crater,  a  short  address  being  made  at  the  same 
time  to  the  deity  supposed  to  reside  there. 

THEOLOGICAL    DISCUSSION    WITH    NATIVES. 

We  ventured  to  deviate  from  the  custom  of  travellers  in  general; 
yet,  though  we  presented  no  offerings,  we  did  not  proceed  to  pull 
down  the  heiau,  and  irritate  the  people  by  destroying  their  idols,  but 
entered  into  conversation  with  them  on  the  folly  of  worshipping  such 
senseless  things,  and  pointed  out  the  more  excellent  way  of  propi- 
tiating the  favour  of  Jehovah,  the  true  God,  with  sacrifices  of  thanks- 
giving and  praise,  placing  all  their  hopes  in  his  mercy,  and  depending 
for  security  on  his  providence. 

They  took  what  we  said  in  good  part,  and  answered,  that  though 
the  stones  could  not  save  them,  the  being  whom  they  represented,  or 
in  honour  of  whom  they  were  erected,  was  very  powerful,  and  capable 
of  devouring  their  land,  and  destroying  the  people.  This  we  denied; 
and  told  them  that  volcanoes,  and  all  their  powers,  were  under  the 
control  of  that  God,  whom  we  wished  them  to  choose  for  their  God  and 
Saviour. 

When  a  drawing  had  been  taken  of  this  beautiful  valley,  where 
kukui  trees,  plantains,  bananas,  and  ti  plants  were  growing  spon- 
taneously with  unusual  richness  of  foliage  and  flower,  we  took  leave 
of  the  people,  and,  continuing  our  journey,  entered  Hamakua. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    HILO    DISTRICT. 

Hiro,  which  we  had  now  left,  though  not  so  extensive  and  populous 
as  Kona,  is  the  most  fertile  and  interesting  division  on  the  island. 

The  coast  from  Waiakea  to  this  place  is  bold  and  steep,  and  inter- 
sected by  numerous  valleys  or  ravines;  many  of  these  are  apparently 
formed  by  the  streams  from  the  mountains,  which  flow  through  them 
into  the  sea.  The  rocks  along  the  coast  are  volcanic,  generally  a 
brown  vesicular  lava.  In  the  sides  and  bottoms  of  some  of  the  ravines, 
they  were  occasionally  of  very  hard  compact  lava,  or  a  kind  of  basalt. 

This  part  of  the  island,  from  the  district  of  Waiakea  to  the  north- 
ern point,  appears  to  have  remained  many  years  undisturbed  by  vol- 
canic eruptions.  The  habitations  of  the  natives  generally  appear  in 
clusters  at  the  opening  of  the  valleys,  or  scattered  over  the  face  of  the 
high  land.     The  soil  is  fertile,  and  herbage  abundant. 

The  lofty  Mouna-Kea,  rising  about  the  centre  of  this  division,  forms 
a  conspicuous  object  in  every  view  that  can  be  taken  of  it.  The  base 
of  the  mountain  on  this  Bide  is  covered  with  woods,  which  occa- 
Bionally  extend  within  five  or  six  miles  of  the  shore. 


264 

CLIMATE  OF  HILO  AND  HAMAKUA. 

While  the  division  of  Kona,  on  the  leeward  side  of  the  island,  is 
often  several  months  without  a  shower,  rain  is  frequent  in  this  and 
the  adjoining  division  of  Hamakua,  which  form  the  centre  of  the 
windward  coast,  and  is  doubtless  the  source  of  their  abundant  fer- 
tility. The  climate  is  warm.  Our  thermometer  was  usually  71°  at 
sun-rise;  74°  at  noon;  and  72°  or  73°  at  sun-set.  Notwithstanding 
these  natural  advantages,  the  inhabitants,  excepting  at  Waiakea,  did 
not  appear  better  supplied  with  the  necessaries  of  life  than  those  of 
Kona,  or  the  more  barren  parts  of  Hawaii.  They  had  better  houses, 
plenty  of  vegetables,  some  dogs,  and  a  few  hogs,  but  hardly  any 
fish,  a  principal  article  of  food  with  the  natives  in  general. 

THRU   KEARAKAHA,    MANIENIE   AND   TOUMOARII. 

About  mid-day  we  came  to  a  village  called  Kearakaha,  where  we 
collected  the  people,  and  preached  to  them.  They  listened  attentively, 
and  conversed  very  freely  afterwards  on  what  had  been  said. 

Leaving  Kearakaha,  we  continued  our  walk  to  Manienie,  where  we 
dined,  and  rested  two  or  three  hours.  During  our  stay  we  addressed 
the  people  as  usual. 

Shortly  after  four  in  the  afternoon  we  left  Manienie,  and  travelled 
over  a  well-cultivated  tract  of  country,  till  we  reached  Toumoarii, 
where  we  put  up  for  the  night,  as  we  were  considerably  fatigued 
with  our  day's  journey,  having  crossed  nearly  twenty  ravines,  some 
of  which  were  from  300  to  400  feet  deep.  The  people  collected  in 
front  of  the  head  man's  house,  for  religious  worship;  and  the  service 
was  concluded  with  singing  and  prayer  just  as  the  sun  was  setting. 

We  spent  the  evening  in  conversation  with  the  people  of  the  house. 
Many  of  them  exclaimed,  "Makemake  au  ia  Jesu  Kraist.  Aroha  nui 
o  Jesu!"    I  desire  Jesus  Christ;  great  is  Jesus'  love. 

MAKOA  AS  A  RELIGIOUS  TEACHER. 

Makoa,  as  usual,  excited  much  interest  among  the  natives  by  the 
accounts  he  gave  of  our  journey,  &c.  This  evening  he  turned  theo- 
logian, and  while  we  were  at  supper,  we  heard  him  telling  a  party 
around  him  in  another  part  of  the  house,  that  heaven  was  a  place 
where  there  was  neither  salt  fish,  nor  calabashes  of  poe.  Indeed, 
added  he,  we  shall  never  want  any  there,  for  we  shall  never  be  hun- 
gry. But  in  order  to  get  there,  much  is  to  be  done.  A  man  that 
wishes  to  go  there,  must  live  peaceably  with  his  neighbours;  must 
never  be  idle;  and,  moreover,  must  be  a  kanaka  opu  nui  ore,  i.  e.  must 
not  be  a  glutton. 

"We  arose  at  day-light  on  the  16th,  and  shortly  after  left  Taumoarii. 


265 

We  had  not  travelled  more  than  four  or  five  miles  when  we  reached 
Kaahua.  After  breakfast,  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  over  a  coun- 
try equal  in  fertility  to  any  we  had  passed  since  leaving  "Waiakea. 
The  houses  were  in  general  large,  containing  usually  three  or  four 
families  each.  Mr.  Goodrich  was  indisposed  through  the  day,  which 
obliged  us  to  travel  but  slowly. 

PREACHING  AT  KOLOAHA  AND  KAPULENA. 

Near  noon  we  stopped  at  Koloaha,  and,  while  he  reclined  beneath 
the  shade  of  an  adjoining  grove  of  trees,  I  addressed  the  assembled 
natives  on  the  subject  of  religion. 

After  remaining  about  two  hours,  we  walked  to  another  village, 
where  Mr.  Thurston  spoke  to  the  people,  who  gave  good  attention. 

"We  then  kept  on  our  way  till  we  reached  Malanahae,  where  a  con- 
gregation of  the  people  assembled,  with  whom  we  conversed  some 
short  time,  then  bade  them  farewell,  and  about  three  p.  m.  reached 
Kapulena,  where  we  preached  to  upwards  of  100  of  the  people. 

At  this  place  we  thought  it  best  to  form  ourselves  into  two  parties, 
in  order  that  we  might  preach  to  the  natives  along  the  northern  parts 
of  the  island,  and  examine  the  interior  between  this  place  and  Towai- 
hae.  It  was  therefore  arranged  that  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich 
should  spend  the  Sabbath  here,  and  on  Monday  morning  pass  over 
to  "Waimea,  and  thence  to  Towaihae,  while  Mr.  Thurston  and  myself 
travelled  through  the  villages  on  the  northern  shores. 

THE    PARTY    SEPARATES. 

On  Monday  morning  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich  commenced  their 
journey  to  Waimea.  Having  procured  a  man  to  carry  their  baggage, 
they  left  Kapulena,  and,  taking  an  inland  direction,  passed  over  a 
pleasant  country,  gently  undulated  with  hill  and  dale.  The  soil  was 
fertile,  the  vegetation  flourishing,  and  there  was  considerable  culti- 
vation, though  but  few  inhabitants. 

THRU  WAIMEA  AND  KAWAIHAE— MEETING  WITH  JOHN  YOUNG. 

About  noon  they  reached  the  valley  of  Waimea,  lying  at  the  foot 
of  Mouna-Kea,  on  the  northwest  side.  Here  a  number  of  villages 
appeared  on  each  side  of  the  path,  surrounded  with  plantations,  in 
which  plantains,  sugar-cane,  and  taro,  were  seen  growing  unusually 
large.  At  4  p.  m.  they  obtained  a  view  of  the  ocean,  and  kept  on 
their  way  towards  Towaihae. 

When  they  had  travelled  several  miles  the  sun  went  down,  and,  no 
houses  being  near,  they  spread  their  blankets  on  the  ground,  and  .slept 
comfortably  in  the  open  air. 


266 

At  break  of  day  on  the  19th  they  began  to  descend,  and,  after 
walking  about  two  hours,  reached  Towaihae,  where  they  were  hos- 
pitably received  by  Mr.  Young,  with  whom  they  spent  the  day. 

Having  heard  that  a  schooner  from  Oahu  was  at  Keauhou,  they  left 
Towaihae  in  the  evening  in  a  canoe  belonging  to  Mr.  Young,  and 
proceeded  to  Kairua,  where  the  schooner  was  lying  at  anchor. 

ALONG   THE    CROOKED    TRAIL    TO    WAIPIO. 

It  was  about  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  16th,  when  Mr. 
Thurston  and  myself  left  Kapulena.  Wishing  to  spend  the  Sabbath  in 
the  populous  village  of  Waipio,  we  travelled  fast  along  the  narrow 
paths  bordered  with  long  grass,  or  through  the  well-cultivated  plan- 
tations of  the  natives. 

The  Sandwich  Islanders  have  no  idea  of  constructing  their  roads  or 
foot-path  in  a  straight  line.  In  many  parts,  where  the  country  was 
level  and  open,  the  paths  from  one  village  to  another  were  not  more 
than  a  foot  wide,  and  very  crooked.  We  often  had  occasion  to  notice 
this,  but  never  passed  over  any  so  completely  serpentine  as  those  we 
travelled  this  evening. 

The  sun  had  set  when  we  reached  the  high  cliff  that  formed  the 
southern  boundary  of  Waipio.  Steep  rocks,  not  less  than  five  hundred 
feet  high,  rose  immediately  opposite.  Viewed  from  the  great  eleva- 
tion at  which  we  stood,  the  charming  valley,  spread  out  beneath  us 
like  a  map,  with  its  numerous  inhabitants,  cottages,  plantations,  fish- 
ponds, and  meandering  streams,  (on  the  surface  of  which  the  light 
canoe   was  moving  to   and   fro.')    appeared  in   beautiful   miniature. 

WAIPIO   DESCRIBED. 

Makoa  led  the  way  down  the  steep  cliffs.  The  descent  was  dif- 
ficult, and  it  was  quite  dark  before  we  reached  the  bottom.  A  party 
of  natives,  returning  from  a  fishing  excursion,  ferried  us  across  the 
stream  that  ran  along  near  the  place  where  we  descended,  and  we 
directed  our  steps  towards  the  house  of  Haa,  head  man  of  the  village. 

He  received  us  courteously,  ordered  a  clean  mat  to  be  spread  for  us 
to  recline  on,  and  water  for  us  to  drink;  some  of  his  attendants  also 
handed  us  a  large  wooden  tobacco-pipe,  which  is  usually  passed  round 
when  strangers  arrive;  this  last  compliment,  however,  we  begged 
leave  to  decline. 

Makoa  seated  himself  by  the  side  of  the  chief,  and  gave  him  a  brief 
outline  of  our  tour — our  object — and  the  instructions  given  to  the  peo- 
ple. In  the  mean  time,  fish  was  prepared  for  supper  by  a  fire  of  sandal 
wood,  which,  instead  of  filling  the  house  with  disagreeable  smoke, 
perfumed  it  with  a  fragrant  odour.  After  family  worship  in  the 
native  language,  we  retired  to  rest. 


: ■'-,  v.      .      •"  "  -. 


i'i 


mSkWm 


^ 


2GS 

The  next  morning  unveiled  to  view  the  extent  and  beauty  of  the 
romantic  valley.  Its  entrance  from  the  sea,  which  was  blocked  up 
with  sand-hills,  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high,  appeared  to  be  a  mile  or  a 
mile  and  a  half  wide. 

The  summits  of  the  hills,  which  bordered  the  valley,  seemed  600  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  They  were  nearly  perpendicular,  yet  they 
were  mostly  clothed  with  grass,  and  low  straggling  shrubs  were  here 
and  there  seen  amidst  the  jutting  rocks. 

A  number  of  winding  paths  led  up  their  steep  sides,  and,  in  several 
parts,  limpid  streams  flowed,  in  beautiful  cascades,  from  the  top  to 
the  bottom,  forming  a  considerable  stream,  which,  meandering  along 
the  valley,  found  a  passage  through  the  sand-hills,  and  emptied  itself 
into  the  sea. 

A  CONTINUOUS  AND  POPULOUS  GARDEN. 

The  bottom  of  the  valley  was  one  continued  garden,  cultivated 
with  taro,  bananas,  sugar-cane,  and  other  productions  of  the  islands, 
all  growing  luxuriantly.  Several  large  ponds  were  also  seen  in  dif- 
ferent directions,  well  stocked  with  excellent  fish. 

A  number  of  small  villages,  containing  from  twenty  to  fifty  houses 
each,  stood  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  at  unequal  distances  on 
each  side,  and  extended  up  the  valley  till  projecting  cliffs  obstructed 
the  view. 

Morning  worship  was  attended  by  our  host  and  his  family,  and 
about  half-past  ten  the  people  of  the  neighbourhood  assembled  in  front 
of  the  house.  Mr.  Thurston  preached  to  them,  and  was  encouraged 
by  the  attention  given. 

In  the  afternoon  he  walked  up  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  and 
preached  to  congregations  of  about  100  persons,  in  three  different 
villages.  I  proceeded  about  a  mile  and  a  half  along  the  south  side 
of  the  valley,  to  the  village  of  Napopo,  containing  forty-three  houses, 
and  preached  to  the  natives.  After  the  service,  the  people  com- 
plained of  their  great  ignorance,  and  wished  they  might  be  visited 
again. 

At  five  p.  m.  I  returned,  and  addressed  the  people  in  the  place 
where  Mr.  Thurston  had  preached  in  the  morning.  About  300  were 
present,   and  listened   attentively. 

DISCUSSIONS    WITH    A    CHIEF. 

The  chief  with  whom  we  lodged  made  many  inquiries  respecting  the 
way  of  salvation  through  Jesus  Christ.  He  also  asked  about  the 
change  which  had  taken  place  in  the  Society  Islands;  and  afterwards 
observed,  that  Hawaii  was  a  dark  land,  and  would  not  soon  attend  to 
its  true  interests.  He  and  his  family  cheerfully  united  in  the  devo- 
tional exercises  of  the  day,  and  by  his  conversation  manifested,  for 
an  untutored  native,  an  unusual  degree  of  intelligence. 


269 

In  the  evening,  as  we  sat  around  the  door,  the  voice  of  wailing  and 
lamentation  broke  upon  the  ear.  On  inquiry,  it  was  found  to  proceed 
from  a  neighbouring  cottage,  where  a  woman,  who  had  been  some 
time  ill,  had  just  expired.  This  circumstance  led  to  a  conversation  on 
death  and  a  future  state,  and  the  necessity  of  habitual  preparedness 
for  the  eventful  change  which  awaits  all  mankind. 

While  we  were  talking,  the  moon  arose,  and  shed  her  mild  light 
upon  the  valley;  her  beams  were  reflected  by  the  rippling  stream,  and 
the  small  lake  beautified  the  scene.  All  was  serene  and  still,  save 
the  chirping  insects  in  the  grass.  The  echo  of  the  cloth-mallet,  which 
had  been  heard  through  the  day  in  different  parts  of  the  valley,  had 
now  ceased.  Though  generally  a  pleasant  sound,  especially  when 
heard  in  a  solitary  valley,  indicating  the  industry  of  the  natives,  it 
had  on  this  day,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  called  forth  the  most  affec- 
tionate solicitude  for  the  interesting  people  of  the  place;  and  we 
could  not  but  desire  the  speedy  arrival  of  that  time,  when  the  sacred 
hours  of  the  Sabbath  should  be  employed  in  spiritual  and  devotional 
exercises.  That,  however,  is  not  to  be  expected  in  the  present  cir- 
cumstances of  the  people,  for 

"The  sound  of  the  church-going  bell 
These  valleys  and  rocks  never  heard: 
Never  sigh  'd  at  the  sound  of  a  knell. 
Nor  smiled  when  a  Sabbath  appear 'd." 

And  probably  until  this  day  their  inhabitants  had  not  been  informed, 
that  "in  six  days  they  should  labour  and  do  all  their  work,  and  that 
the  seventh  is  the  Sabbath  of  the  Lord  their  God,"  which  he  requires 
them  to  sanctify  by  sacred  worship  and  holy  rest. 

MAKOA    GIVES    POINTERS    ON    HAOLE    MEDICINE. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  while  some  medicine  was  preparing, 
Haa  inquired  of  what  kind  it  was,  when  Makoa,  who  was  sitting  by, 
observed  that  it  was  very  strong  medicine;  that  if  a  native  only 
smelt  it,  his  breath  would  be  taken  away:  (he  referred  probably  to 
a  bottle  of  hartshorn,  of  which  he  had  once  smelt.)  "If  we  were 
to  be  taken  sick  on  a  journey,  we  should  rest  a  few  days  before  we 
thought  of  continuing  it:  but  they  are  strange  people,  very  unlike  us; 
for  frequently,  after  being  ill  all  night,  they  get  up  in  the  morning, 
take  medicine,  and  then  walk  all  day  as  if  nothing  were  the  matter 
with  them." 

HAWAIIAN    METHODS    OF    INTERMENT. 

We  were  desirous  of  witnessing  the  interment  of  the  person  who 
died  last  night,  but  were  disappointed;  it  was,  as  most  of  their  fune- 
rals are,  performed  in  secret. 


270 

A  few  particulars,  relative  to  thoir  mode  of  burying,  we  have  been 
able  to  gather  from  the  people  of  this  place  and  other  parts  of  the 
island. 

The  bones  of  the  legs  and  arms,  and  sometimes  the  skull,  of  their 
kings  and  principal  chiefs,  those  ■who  were  supposed  to  have  descended 
from  the  gods,  or  were  to  be  deified,  were  usually  preserved,  as  already 
noticed.  The  other  parts  of  the  body  were  burnt  or  buried,  while  these 
bones  were  either  bound  up  with  cinet,  wrapped  in  cloth,  and  de- 
posited in  temples  for  adoration,  or  distributed  among  the  immediate 
relatives,  who,  during  their  lives,  always  carried  them  wherever  they 
went.  This  was  the  case  with  the  bones  of  Tamehameha;  and  it  is 
probable  that  some  of  his  bones  were  brought  by  his  son  Rihoriho  on 
his  recent  visit  to  England,  as  they  supposed  that  so  long  as  the  bones 
of  the  deceased  were  revered,  his  spirit  would  accompany  them,  and 
exercise  a  supernatural  guardianship  over  them. 

They  did  not  wash  the  bodies  of  the  dead,  as  was  the  practice  with 
some  of  the  South  Sea  Islanders. 

The  bodies  of  priests,  and  chiefs  of  inferior  rank,  were  laid  out 
straight,  wrapped  in  many  folds  of  native  tapa,  and  buried  in  that 
posture;  the  priests  generally  within  the  precincts  of  the  temple  in 
which  they  had  officiated. 

DIFFERENT    BURIAL    METHODS. 

A  pile  of  stones,  or  a  circle  of  high  poles,  surrounded  their  grave, 
and  marked  the  place  of  their  interment.  It  was  only  the  bodies  of 
priests,  or  persons  of  some  importance,  that  were  thus  buried. 

The  common  people  committed  their  dead  to  the  earth  in  a  most 
singular  manner.  After  death,  they  raised  the  upper  part  of  the  body, 
bent  the  face  forwards  to  the  knees,  the  hands  were  next  put  under 
the  hams,  and  passed  up  between  the  knees,  when  the  head,  hands, 
and  knees  were  bound  together  with  cinet  or  cord.  The  body  was 
afterwards  wrapped  in  a  coarse  mat,  and  buried  the  first  or  second 
day  after  its  decease. 

They  preferred  natural  graves  whenever  available,  and  selected  for 
this  purpose  caves  in  the  sides  of  their  steep  rocks,  or  large  subter- 
ranean caverns. 

SEPULCHRAL  CAVES. 

Sometimes  the  inhabitants  of  a  village  deposited  their  dead  in  one 
large  cavern,  but  in  general  each  family  had  a  distinct  sepulchral  cave. 

Their  artificial  graves  were  either  simple  pits  dug  in  the  -earth, 
or  large  enclosures.  One  of  the  latter,  which  we  saw  at  Keahou, 
was  a  space  surrounded  with  high  stone  walls,  appearing  much  like 
an  ancient  heiau  or  temple.  We  proposed  to  several  natives  of  the 
village  to  accompany  us  on  a  visit  to  it,  and  give  us  an  outline  of  its 


271 

history;  but  they  appeared  startled  at  the  thought,  said  it  was  a 
wahi  ino,  (place  evil,)  filled  with  dead  bodies,  and  objected  so  strongly 
to  our  approaching  it,  that  we  deemed  it  inexpedient  to  make  our  in- 
tended visit. 

Occasionally  they  buried  their  dead  in  sequestered  places,  at  a  short 
distance  from  their  habitations,  but  frequently  in  their  gardens,  and 
sometimes  in  their  houses.  Their  graves  were  not  deep,  and  the  bodies 
were  usually  placed  in  them  in  a  sitting  posture. 

BURIALS   ARE    SECRET   AND   WITHOUT   CEREMONY. 

No  prayer  was  offered  at  tne  grave,  except  occasionally  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Oahu. 

All  their  interments  are  conducted  without  any  ceremony,  and  are 
usually  managed  with  great  secrecy.  We  have  often  been  surprised  at 
this,  and  believe  it  arises  from  the  superstitious  dread  the  people  en- 
tertain respecting  the  places  where  dead  bodies  are  deposited,  which 
they  believe  resorted  to  by  the  spirits  of  those  buried  there. 

Like  most  ignorant  and  barbarous  nations,  they  imagine  that  appari- 
tions are  frequently  seen,  and  often  injure  those  who  come  in  their 
way. 

Their  funerals  take  place  in  the  night,  to  avoid  observation;  for 
we  have  been  told,  that  if  the  people  were  to  see  a  party  carrying  a 
dead  body  past  their  houses,  they  would  abuse  them,  or  even  throw 
stones  at  them,  for  not  taking  it  some  other  way,  supposing  the  spirit 
would  return  to  and  fro  to  the  former  abode  of  the  deceased  by  the 
path  along  which  the  body  had  been  borne  to  the  place  of  interment. 

BONES  THROWN  TO  PELE  AND  THE  SHARKS. 

The  worshippers  of  Pele  threw  a  part  of  the  bones  of  their  dead 
into  the  volcano,  under  the  impression  that  the  spirits  of  the  deceased 
would  then  be  admitted  to  the  society  of  the  volcanic  deities,  and 
that  their  influence  would  preserve  the  survivors  from  the  ravages 
of  volcanic  fire. 

The  fishermen  sometimes  wrapped  their  dead  in  red  native  cloth, 
and  threw  them  into  the  sea,  to  be  devoured  by  the  sharks.  Under 
the  influence  of  a  belief  in  the  transmigration  of  souls,  they  sup- 
posed the  spirit  of  the  departed  would  animate  the  shark  by  which 
the  body  was  devoured,  and  that  the  survivors  would  be  spared  by 
those  voracious  monsters,  in  the  event  of  their  being  overtaken  by 
any  accident  at  sea. 

The  bodies  of  criminals  who  had  broken  tabu,  after  having  been 
slain  to  appease  the  anger  of  the  v,od  whose  tabu,  or  prohibition,  they 
had  broken,  were  buried  within  the  precincts  of  the  heiau. 


The  bones  of  human  sacrifices,  after  the  flesh  had  rotted,  were 
piled  up  in  different  parts  of  the  heiau  in  which  they  had  been  offered. 

CHANGES   IN   BURIAL   METHODS   INTRODUCED   BY   MISSIONARIES. 

Idolatry,  since  1819,  has  been  abolished,  and  all  ceremonies  con- 
nected therewith  have  ceased;  the  other  heathenish  modes  of  burying 
their  dead  are  only  observed  by  those  who  are  uninstructcd,  and  are 
not  professed  worshippers  of  the  true  God:  those  who  are,  inter  their 
dead  in  a  manner  more  resembling  the  practice  of  Christians. 

The  corpse  is  usually  laid  in  a  coffin,  which,  previous  to  interment, 
is  borne  to  the  place  of  worship,  attended  by  the  relatives  in  mourn- 
ing habiliments,  where  a  short  service  is  performed;  it  is  then  carried 
to  the  grave;  after  being  deposited  there,  sometimes  the  spectators 
are  addressed  by  the  misssionary,  on  other  occasions  a  short  prayer 
only  is  offered,  and,  as  the  friends  retire,  the  grave  is  filled  up. 

After  breakfast,  Mr.  Thurston  walked  about  five  miles  up  the  val- 
ley, in  order  to  estimate  its  population,  and  preach  to  the  people. 
The  whole  extent  was  well  cultivated,  and  presented  in  every  direc- 
tion the  most  beautiful  prospects.  At  one  of  the  villages  where  he 
stopped,  about  100  people  collected,  to  whom  he  preached  the  word 
of  salvation. 

TALES    OF   HUMAN    SACRIFICES. 

I  spent  the  morning  in  taking  a  drawing  of  the  valley  from  the 
sand-hills  on  the  beach;  and  in  examining  some  large  heiaus  in  the 
neighbourhood,  in  reference  to  which  the  natives  taxed  our  credulity 
by  the  legendary  tales  they  related  respecting  the  numbers  of  victims 
which  had  on  some  occasions  been  offered. 

In  the  days  of  Umi,  they  said,  that  king,  after  having  been  vic- 
torious in  battle  over  the  kings  of  six  of  the  divisions  of  Hawaii,  was 
sacrificing  captives  at  Waipio,  when  the  voice  of  Kuahiro,  his  god, 
was  heard  from  the  clouds,  requiring  more  men;  the  king  kept  sacri- 
ficing, and  the  voice  continued  calling  for  more,  till  he  had  slain  all  his 
men  except  one,  whom,  as  he  was  a  great  favourite,  he  refused  at  first 
to  give  up;  but  the  god  being  urgent,  he  sacrificed  him  also,  and  the 
priest  and  himself  were  all  that  remained.  Upwards  of  eighty  vic- 
tims, they  added,  were  offered  at  that  time,  in  obedience  to  the  audible 
demands  of  the  insatiate  demon. 

We  have  heard  the  same  account  at  other  places,  of  eighty  victims 
being  slain  at  one  time;  and  though  perhaps  the  account  may  ex- 
ceed the  number  actually  immolated,  the  tradition  serves  to  shew  the 
savage  character  of  the  gods,  who,  in  the  opinion  of  the  natives, 
could  require  such  prodigal  waste  of  human  life. 


273 
CITY  OF  REFUGE   OF  PAKARANA   AT  WAIPIO. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  visited  Pakarana,  the  Puhonua,  or  place  of 
refuge,  for  all  this  part  of  the  island.  It  was  a  large  enclosure,  less 
extensive,  however,  than  that  at  Honaunau.  The  walls,  though  of 
great  antiquity,  were  of  inferior  height  and  dimensions.  In  the 
midst  of  the  enclosure,  under  a  wide-spreading  pandanus,  was  a  small 
house,  called  Ke  Hale  o  Eiroa,  (The  House  of  Kiroa,)  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  containing  the  bones  of  a  king  of  that  name,  who  was 
the  grandson  of  Umi,  and,  according  to  their  traditions,  reigned  in 
Hawaii  about  fifteen  generations  back. 

We  tried,  but  could  not  gain  admittance  to  the  pahu  tabu,  or  sacred 
enclosure.  We  also  endeavoured  to  obtain  a  sight  of  the  bones  of 
Eiroa,  but  the  man  who  had  charge  of  the  house  told  us  we  must 
offer  a  hog  before  we  could  be  admitted;  that  Tamehameha,  when- 
ever he  entered,  had  always  sent  offerings;  that  Eihoriho,  since  he 
had  become  king,  had  done  the  same,  and  that  no  one  could  be  ad- 
mitted on  other  conditions. 

Finding  us  unwilling  to  comply,  yet  anxious  to  see  the  bones,  they 
directed  us  to  a  rudely  carved  stone  image,  about  six  feet  high, 
standing  at  one  corner  of  the  wall,  which  they  said  was  a  tii,  or  image 
of  Eiroa. 

We  talked  some  time  with  the  people  around,  who  were  principally 
priests,  on  the  folly  of  deifying  and  worshipping  departed  mortals. 
The  only  answer,  however,  which  they  made  was,  Pela  no  i  Hawaii 
nei:  So  it  is  in  Hawaii  here. 

SANDAL    WOOD    COLLECTING. 

During  the  afternoon  great  numbers  of  men  belonging  to  the  valley 
returned  with  loads  of  sandal  wood,  which  they  had  been  cutting  in 
the  neighbouring  mountains.  The  wood  was  much  superior  to  that 
which  we  had  seen  at  Waiakea,  being  high  coloured,  strongly  scented, 
and  sometimes  in  large  pieces  nearly  a  foot  in  diameter. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  about  300  of  the  natives  of  the 
place  assembled  for  public  worship  in  front  of  the  head  man's  house, 
where  they  were  addressed  from  Luke  xiv.  23.  The  people  were  atten- 
tive, and  frequently  interrupted  the  speaker  by  their  exclamations. 

Some  said,  "Jehovah  is  a  good  God:  the  living  God  is  a  good  God; 
gTeat  is  his  love." 

After  the  service,  they  sat  talking  on  what  they  had  heard,  and 
occasionally  making  inquiries,  till  the  sun  had  set,  and  the  moon  had 
nearly  reached  the  mid-heaven.  The  chief,  in  particular,  seemed  much 
interested,  and,  during  the  evening,  he  and  several  others  expressed 
themselves  very  desirous  that  a  missionary  should  come  and  reside 
with  them,  that  they  might  be  instructed  fully  in  all  these  tilings. 

18 


274 

LARGE  POPULATION  AT   WAIPIO. 

According  to  the  number  of  houses  which  we  have  seen,  in  all  265, 
there  are  at  least  1325  inhabitants  in  this  sequestered  valley,  besides 
populous  villages  on  each  side  along  the  coast,  which  might  be  easily 
visited.  This  circumstance,  together  with  the  fertility  of  the  soil, 
the  abundance  of  water,  the  facility  with  which,  at  most  seasons  of 
the  year,  supplies  can  be  forwarded  by  water  from  Kairua  or  Towai- 
hae,  combine  to  render  this  an  eligible  spot  for  a  missionary  station; 
but  notwithstanding  all  these  favourable  circumstances,  together  with 
the  great  desire  of  the  people  to  be  instructed  in  the  important  prin- 
ciples of  Christianity,  it  is  much  to  be  feared  that,  unless  the  funds 
of  the  Parent  Societies  are  increased,  this  inviting  field,  as  well  as 
several  others,  must  long  remain  destitute  of  moral  culture. 

WAIPIO  CELEBRATED  IN  HAWAIIAN  HISTORY. 

The  valley  of  Waipio  is  a  place  frequently  celebrated  in  the  songs 
and  traditions  of  Hawaii,  as  having  been  the  abode  of  Akea  and  Miru, 
the  first  kings  of  the  island;  of  Umi  and  Riroa,  kings  who  make  a 
prominent  figure  in  their  history. 

It  is  also  noted  as  the  residence  of  Hoakau,  king  of  this  part  of  the 
island,  who  appears  to  have  been  one  of  the  Neros  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  and  whose  memory  is  execrable  among  the  people,  on  account 
of  his  cruelties;  and  of  whom  it  is  reported,  that  if  a  man  was  said 
to  have  a  fine-looking  head,  he  would  send  his  servants  to  behead 
the  individual,  and  bring  his  head  before  him,  when  he  would  wantonly 
cut,  and  otherwise  disfigure  it.  He  is  said  also  to  have  ordered  a 
man's  arm  to  be  cut  off,  and  brought  to  him,  only  because  it  was 
tataued  in  a  manner  more  handsome  than  his  own. 

DISCUSSION  ON  THE  SOUL,  RESURRECTION  AND  GENERAL  JUDGMENT. 

An  interesting  conversation  was  carried  on  this  evening  with  respect 
to  the  separate  existence  of  the  soul,  the  resurrection  of  the  body, 
and  the  general  judgment  at  the  last  day. 

The  account  of  the  raising  of  the  widow's  son,  and  the  calling  of 
Lazarus  from  the  grave  after  he  had  been  dead  four  days,  seemed 
greatly  to  interest  the  natives. 

We  afterwards  endeavoured  to  learn  from  them  something  re- 
specting their  opinions  of  a  state  of  existence  after  death.  But  all 
they  said  upon  the  subject  was  so  contradictory,  and  mixed  with 
fiction,  that  it  could  not  be  discovered  whether  they  had  any  definite 
idea  of  the  nature,  or  even  the  existence,  of  such  a  state. 


275 
HAWAIIAN    VIEWS    CONCERNING    LIFE    AFTER    DEATH. 

Some  said  that  all  the  souls  of  the  departed  went  to  the  Po,  (place 
of  night,)  and  were  annihilated,  or  eaten  by  the  gods  there. 

Others  said,  that  some  went  to  the  regions  of  Akea  and  Mini. 

Akea,  they  said,  was  the  first  king  of  Hawaii.  At  the  expiration 
of  his  reign,  which  terminated  with  his  life  at  Waipio,  the  place 
where  we  then  were,  he  descended  to  a  region  far  below,  called  Ka- 
papahanaumoku,  (the  island-bearing  rock,  or  stratum — compounded 
of  Ka  papa,  the  rock,  or  stratum  of  rock;  hanau,  to  bear  or  bring 
forth;  and  moku,  an  island,)   and  founded  a  kingdom  there. 

Miru,  who  was  his  successor,  and  reigned  in  Hamakua,  descended, 
when  he  died,  to  Akea,  and  shared  the  government  of  the  place  with 
him.  Their  land  is  a  place  of  darkness;  their  food  lizards  and  but- 
terflies. There  are  several  streams  of  water,  of  which  they  drink, 
and  some  said  there  were  large  Kahiris,  and  wide-spreading  kou- 
trees,  beneath  which  they  reclined.  (Though  the  Kahiris  were  usually 
small,  resembling  the  one  represented  in  the  plate  of  the  native  dance 
at  Kairua,  they  were  sometimes  upwards  of  twenty  feet  high;  the 
handle  tweleve  or  fifteen  feet  long,  beautifully  covered  with  tortoise 
shell  and  the  ivory  of  whales'  teeth;  and  the  upper  part  formed  with 
red,  yellow,  or  black  feathers,  fastened  on  a  kind  of  wicker-work, 
and  resembling  a  cylinder  twelve  or  thirteen  inches  in  diameter. 
These,  however,  are  only  used  on  state  occasions,  when  they  are  car- 
ried in  processions  instead  of  banners,  and  are  fixed  in  the  ground 
near  the  tent  or  house  in  which  'the  king  or  principal  personages  may 
remain  on  such  occasions.)  But  to  most  of  the  questions  that  were 
asked,  they  said  they  could  give  no  answer,  as  they  knew  nothing 
about  it;  none  had  ever  returned  in  open  daylight,  to  tell  them  any 
thing  respecting  it;  and  all  they  knew  was  from  visions  or  dreams  of 
the  priests. 

MESSAGES  FROM  THE  OTHER  WORLD. 

Sometimes,  they  said,  when  a  recently  liberated  spirit  arrived  in 
the  dominions  of  Miru,  the  Pluto  of  Hawaii,  he  (viz.  Miru)  would 
ask  it  what  the  kings  above  were  doing,  and  what  were  the  principal 
pursuits  of  the  people?  and  when  he  had  answered,  he  was  sent  back 
to  the  ao  marama  (state  of  day  or  light)  with  a  message  from  Miru 
to  them,  to  iho  nui  mai  ma  nei,  (to  descend  altogether  to  this  place). 
The  person  so  sent  would  appear  to  the  priests  in  a  dream,  deliver 
his  message,  and  then  return  to  the  lower  regions. 

This  account  accorded  with  the  report  of  the  late  Tamehameha's 
appearing  to  a  man  in  the  division  of  Komi,  of  which  we  had  before 
heard. 


276 

A  MESSAGE   FROM   KAMEHAMEHA  AFTER  DEATH. 

A  short  time  ago,  a  man  in  the  southern  part  of  Kona  retired  to 
rest  as  usual.  In  the  middle  of  the  night,  it  is  said,  he  was  con- 
ducted by  a  spirit  to  the  lower  regions,  where  he  saw  Tamehameha, 
who  asked  him  by  whom  Hawaii  was"  governed;  and  made  several 
inquiries  respecting  his  son,  Rihoriho,  and  his  other  children.  Tame- 
hameha then  requested  the  man  to  return,  deliver  a  certain  message 
to  Kuakini,  and  also  to  Rihoriho  the  king,  promising  his  favour  if  he 
obeyed,  but  threatening  severely,  should  he  fail  to  do  as  he  had 
directed  him. 

The  man  returned  to  his  house,  related  where  he  had  been,  but  in- 
stead of  setting  off  immediately  to  Kairua,  he  remained  to  dress  a  hog, 
and  prepare  food  for  the  journey.  The  delay  was  severely  punished, 
for  he  died  before  the  food,  he  had  stopped  to  prepare,  was  cooked. 

This  story  probably  originated  with  those  who  were  fearful  lest 
some  of  the  institutions  and  principles  of  the  late  king  should  be  dis- 
regarded by  his  successors.  It  serves,  however,  to  exhibit  the  popular 
notions  of  the  people,  and  the  great  influence  Tamehameha  had  over 
them. 

HAWAIIAN    AND    SOCIETY    ISLAND    TRADITIONS    OF    HADES. 

The  account  given  this  evening  of  the  Hawaiian  hades,  afforded 
another  proof  of  the  identity  between  the  traditions  of  the  Sandwich 
and  Society  Islanders.  For  among  the  latter,  the  spirits  of  the  Areois, 
and  priests  of  certain  idols,  were  not  eaten  by  the  gods  after  the  death 
of  their  bodies,  but  went  to  Miru,  (pronounced  by  both,  Meru,)  where 
they  lived  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  departed  kings  and  heroes 
of  Hawaii  were  supposed  to  do;  or  joining  hands,  they  formed  a  circle 
with  those  that  had  gone  before,   and  danced  in  one  eternal  round. 

At  daylight,  on  the  19th,  numbers  of  the  people  collected  around  the 
house  where  we  had  lodged,  with  whom  we  held  morning  worship. 

Haa,  the  chief  of  the  place,  beneath  whose  friendly  roof  we  had 
been  most  hospitably  entertained,  then  accompanied  us  to  the  beach, 
where  he  had  prepared  a  canoe  to  convey  us  to  the  next  district. 
Shortly  after  six  a.  m.  we  gave  him  the  parting  hand,  with  sincere 
thanks  for  his  kindness,  after  which  we  seated  ourselves  in  the  canoe, 
and,  in  the  midst  of  many  expressions  of  good  will,  from  those  who 
had  come  down  to  the  beach  to  bid  us  farewell,  we  were  safely 
launched  through  the  surf. 

We  left  Waipio,  deeply  impressed  with  a  sense  of  the  kind  treat- 
ment we  had  received,  and  with  feelings  of  sympathy  for  the  mental 
darkness  and  degradation  of  the  interesting  people  by  whom  it  was 
inhabited.  We  could  not  but  hope  that  they  would  soon  enjoy  the 
constant  light  of  Christian  instruction,  and  participate  in  every  Chris- 


277 

tian  privilege.  A  wide  field  of  usefulness  is  here  presented  to  a 
Christian  missionary,  and  we  sincerely  hope  the  directors  of  mis- 
sionary operations  will  have  means  sufficient  at  their  disposal  to  send 
a  missionary  to  this,  and  every  other  place  where  the  people  are  so 
anxious  to  be  instructed. 

DOWN   THE    COAST   PROM   WAIPIO. 

The  shore,  along  which  the  canoe  was  paddled,  was  extremely  bold 
and  romantic.  In  many  places  the  mountains  rose  almost  perpendicu- 
larly 500  or  600  feet  above  the  sea.  Their  steep  sides  were  nearly 
destitute  of  verdure,  as  it  was  the  dry  season,  yet,  at  unequal  dis- 
tances of  a  quarter  or  half  a  mile  from  each  other,  beautiful  water- 
falls and  varied  cascades  flowed  from  the  top  into  the  ocean  below. 
The  rocks  seemed  composed  of  various  strata  of  vesicular  lava,  and 
in  several  places  the  water  was  seen  oozing  out  between  the  strata  in 
the  face  of  the  rocks  some  hundred  feet  below  their  summits. 

Large  stones  and  fragments  of  rocks  in  some  places  lay  scattered 
along  the  base  of  the  precipice,  just  above  the  water's  edge;  but  fre- 
quently the  mountain  sides  seemed  to  descend  perpendicularly  to  a 
great  depth  under  water. 

We  saw  several  groups  of  natives  passing  along  on  the  large  stones 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  whenever  they  came  to  a  place 
where  the  deep  waters  extended  to  the  base  of  the  precipice,  they 
all  jumped  into  the  sea,  and  swam  perhaps  fifty  or  sixty  yards,  till 
they  came  to  another  ledge  of  rocks,  upon  which  they  would  climb, 
and  pursue  their  journey. 

SHIPPING   SANDAL   WOOD   AT   WAIMANU. 

After  proceeding  pleasantly  along  for  five  or  six  miles,  we  arrived 
at  Waimanu  a  little  before  eight  o'clock. 

We  found  Arapai,  the  chief,  and  a  number  of  his  men,  busy  on  the 
beach  shipping  sandal-wood  on  board  a  sloop  belonging  to  the  gov- 
ernor, then  lying  at  anchor  in  a  small  bay  off  the  mouth  of  the  valley. 
He  received  us  kindly,  and  directed  two  of  his  men  to  conduct  us  to 
his  house,  which  was  on  the  opposite  side. 

The  valley,  though  not  so  spacious  or  cultivated  as  Waipio,  was 
equally  verdant  and  picturesque;  we  could  not  but  notice  the  unusual 
beauty  of  its  natural  scenery.  The  glittering  cascades  and  water- 
falls, that  rolled  down  the  deep  sides  of  the  surrounding  mountains, 
seemed  more   numerous  and  beautiful  than   those  at   Waipio. 

SURFING    AT    WAIMANU. 

As  we  crossed  the  head  of  the  bay,  we  saw  a  number  of  young  per- 
sons swimming  in  the  surf,  which  rolled  with  some  violence  on  the 
rocky  beach. 


278 

To  a  spectator  nothing  can  appear  more  daring,  and  sometimes 
alarming,  than  to  see  a  number  of  persons  splashing  about  among 
the  waves  of  the  sea  as  they  dash  on  the  shore;  yet  this  is  the  most 
popular  and  delightful  of  the  native  sports. 

There  are  perhaps  no  people  more  aceustomed  to  the  water  than  the 
islanders  of  the  Pacific;  they  seem  almost  a  race  of  amphibious  beings. 
Familiar  with  the  sea  from  their  birth,  they  lose  all  dread  of  it, 
and  seem  nearly  as  much  at  home  in  the  water  as  on  dry  land. 

CHILDREN    SWIM    AS    SOON   AS   THEY   WALK. 

There  are  few  children  who  are  not  taken  into  the  sea  by  their 
mothers  the  second  or  third  day  after  their  birth,  and  many  who  can 
swim  as  soon  as  they  can  walk. 

The  heat  of  the  climate  is,  no  doubt,  one  source  of  the  gratification 
they  find  in  this  amusement,  which  is  so  universal,  that  it  is  scarcely 
possible  to  pass  along  the  shore  where  there  are  many  habitations 
near,  and  not  see  a  number  of  children  playing  in  the  sea. 

Here  they  remain  for  hours  together,  and  yet  I  never  knew  of  but 
one  child  being  drowned  during  the  number  of  years  I  have  resided 
in  the  islands. 

CHILDREN'S   WATER   GAMES. 

They  have  a  variety  of  games,  and  gambol  as  fearlessly  in  the 
water  as  the  children  of  a  school  do  in  their  playground. 

Sometimes  they  erect  a  stage  eight  or  ten  feet  high  on  the  edge  of 
some  deep  place,  and  lay  a  pole  in  an  oblique  direction  over  the  edge 
of  it,  perhaps  twenty  feet  above  the  water;  along  this  they  pursue 
each  other  to  the  outermost  end,  when  they  jump  into  the  sea. 

Throwing  themselves  from  the  lower  yards,  or  bowsprit,  of  a  ship, 
is  also  a  favourite  sport,  but  the  most  general  and  frequent  game  is 
swimming  in  the  surf.  The  higher  the  sea  and  the  larger  the  waves, 
in  their  opinion  the  better  the  sport. 

SURF   BOARDING. 

On  these  occasions  they  use  a  board,  which  they  call  papa  he  naru, 
(wave  sliding-board,)  generally  five  or  six  feet  long,  and  rather  more 
than  a  foot  wide,  sometimes  flat,  but  more  frequently  slightly  convex 
on  both  sides.  It  is  usually  made  of  the  wood  of  the  erythrina,  stained 
quite  black,  and  preserved  with  great  care.  After  using,  it  is.  placed 
in  the  sun  till  perfectly  dry,  when  it  is  rubbed  over  with  cocoa-nut 
oil,  frequently  wrapped  in  cloth,  and  suspended  in  some  part  of  their 
dwelling  house. 

Sometimes  they  choose  a  place  where  the  deep  water  reaches  to  the 
beach,  but  generally  prefer  a  part  where  the  rocks  are  ten  or  twenty 


279 

feet  under  water,  and  extend  to  a  distance  from  the  shore,  as  the  surf 
breaks  more  violently  over  these. 

When  playing  in  these  places,  each  individual  takes  his  board,  and, 
pushing  it  before  him,  swims  perhaps  a  quarter  of  a  mile  or  more  out 
to  sea. 

They  do  not  attempt  to  go  over  the  billows  which  roll  towards  the 
shore,  but  watch  their  approach,  and  dive  under  water,  allowing  the 
billow  to  pass  over  their  heads. 

GOING   IN    ON   THE    SURF. 

When  they  reach  the  outside  of  the  rocks,  where  the  waves  first 
break,  they  adjust  themselves  on  one  end  of  the  board,  lying  flat  on 
their  faces,  and  watch  the  approach  of  the  largest  billow;  they  then 
poise  themselves  on  its  highest  edge,  and,  paddling  as  it  were  with 
their  hands  and  feet,  ride  on  the  crest  of  the  wave,  in  the  midst  of 
the  spray  and  foam,  till  within  a  yard  or  two  of  the  rocks  or  the  shore; 
and  when  the  observers  would  expect  to  see  them  dashed  to  pieces, 
they  steer  with  great  address  between  the  rocks,  or  slide  off  their 
board  in  a  moment,  grasp  it  by  the  middle,  and  dive  under  water, 
while  the  wave  rolls  on,  and  breaks  among  the  rocks  with  a  roaring 
noise,  the  effect  of  which  is  greatly  heightened  by  the  shouts  and 
laughter  of  the  natives  in  the  water. 

Those  who  are  expert  frequently  change  their  position  on  the 
board,  sometimes  sitting  and  sometimes  standing  erect  in  the  midst 
of  the  foam. 

The  greatest  address  is  necessary  in  order  to  keep  on  the  edge  of  the 
wave:  for  if  they  get  too  forward,  they  are  sure  to  be  overturned; 
and  if  they  fall  back,  they  are  buried  beneath  the  succeeding  billow. 

CANOE    SURFING — WHOLE    VILLAGES,    INCLUDING    CHIEFS,    SURFING. 

Occasionally  they  take  a  very  light  canoe;  but  this,  though  directed 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  board,  is  much  more  difficult  to  manage. 

Sometimes  the  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  a  village  go  out 
to  this  sport,  when  the  wind  blows  fresh  towards  the  shore,  and  spend 
the  greater  part  of  the  day  in  the  water.  All  ranks  and  ages  appear 
equally  fond  of  it. 

We  have  seen  Karaimoku  and  Kakioeva,  some  of  the  highest  chiefs 
in  the  island,  both  between  fifty  and  sixty  years  of  age,  and  large 
corpulent  men,  balancing  themselves  on  their  narrow  board,  or  splash- 
ing about  in  the  foam,  with  as  much  satisfaction  as  youths  of  sixteen. 

They  frequently  play  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  river,  where  the  strong 
current  running  into  the  sea,  and  the  rolling  of  the  waves  towards  the 
shore,  produce  a  degree  of  agitation  between  the  water  of  the  river 
and   the   sea,   that   would   be   fatal   to   an   European,   however   expert 


280 

he  might  bo;  yet  in  this  they  delight:  and  when  the  king  or  queen, 
or  any  high  chiefs,  are  playing,  none  of  the  common  people  are 
allowed  to  approach  these  places,  lest  they  should  spoil  their  sport. 

KAUMUALII    AN    EXPERT    SURFER. 

The  chiefs  pride  themselves  much  on  excelling  in  some  of  the  games 
of  their  country;  hence  Taumuarii,  the  late  king  of  Tauai,  was 
celebrated  as  the  most  expert  swimmer  in  the  surf,  known  in  the 
islands. 

FEAR    OF    SHARKS. 

The  only  circumstance  that  ever  mars  their  pleasure  in  this  diver- 
sion is  the  approach  of  a  shark.  When  this  happens,  though  they 
sometimes  fly  in  every  direction,  they  frequently  unite,  set  up  a  loud 
shout,  and  make  so  much  splashing  in  the  water,  as  to  frighten  him 
away.  Their  fear  of  them,  however,  is  very  great;  and  after  a  party 
return  from  this  amusement,  almost  the  first  question  they  are  asked 
is,  ""Were  there  any  sharks?" 

The  fondness  of  the  natives  for  the  water  must  strike  any  person 
visiting  their  islands;  long  before  he  goes  on  shore,  he  will  see  them 
swimming  around  his  ship;  and  few  ships  leave  without  being  accom- 
panied part  of  the  way  out  of  the  harbour  by  the  natives,  sporting  in 
the  water;  but  to  see  fifty  or  a  hundred  persons  riding  on  an  immense 
billow,  half  immersed  in  spray  and  foam,  for  a  distance  of  several 
hundred  yards  together,  is  one  of  the  most  novel  and  interesting 
sports  a  foreigner  can  witness  in  the  islands. 

INSPECTING  WAIMANU. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  house  of  Arapai,  we  were  welcomed  by 
his  wife   and  several  members   of  his  family. 

Mr.  Thurston  walked  up  to  the  head  of  the  valley,  to  number  the 
houses  and  speak  to  the  people.  At  one  of  the  villages  through  which 
he  passed,  about  150  of  the  inhabitants  assembled,  to  whom  he 
preached.  The  people  were  interested,  and  several  of  them  followed 
him  down  to  the  chief's  house  near  the  beach.  Shortly  after  his  re- 
turn, the  chief  came  home,  and  some  breakfast  of  salt  fish  and  taro 
was  provided,  of  which  we  partook  with  the  family. 

THE    FURNISHINGS    OF    CHIEF    ALAPAI'S    HOUSE. 

Arapai  is  evidently  a  chief  of  some  importance.  We  saw  several 
large  double  canoes  in  his  out-houses.  The  number  of  his  domestics 
was  greater  than  usual;  his  house  was  large,  well  built,  and  stocked 
with  a  number  of  useful  articles,  among  which  we  noticed  some  large 


281 

and  handsomely  stained  calabashes,  marked  with  a  variety  of  devices. 

The  calabash  is  a  large  kind  of  gourd,  sometimes  capable  of  holding 
four  or  five  gallons.  It  is  used  to  contain  water  and  other  fluids, 
by  the  natives  of  all  the  islands  in  the  South  Sea;  but  the  art  of 
staining  it  is  peculiar  to  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  and  is  another  proof 
of  their  superior  powers  of  invention  and  ingenuity. 

"When  the  calabash  has  grown  to  its  full  size,  they  empty  it  in  the 
usual  manner,  by  placing  it  in  the  sun  till  the  inside  is  decayed, 
and  may  be  shaken  out.  The  shell,  which  remains  enth-e,  except  the 
small  perforation  made  at  the  stalk  for  the  purpose  of  discharging 
its  contents,  and  serving  as  a  mouth  to  the  vessel,  is,  when  the  cala- 
bash is  large,  sometimes  half  an  inch  thick. 

DECORATION  OF  CALABASHES. 

In  order  to  stain  it,  they  mix  several  bruised  herbs,  principally  the 
stalks  and  leaves  of  the  arum,  and  a  quantity  of  dark  ferruginous 
earth,  with  water,  and  fill  the  vessel  with  it.  They  then  draw  with  a 
piece  of  hard  wood  or  stone  on  the  outside  of  the  calabash,  what- 
ever figures  they  wish  to  ornament  it  with.  These  are  various,  being 
either  rhomboids,  stars,  circles,  or  wave  and  straight  lines,  in  separate 
sections,  or  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  generally  marked 
with  a  great  degree  of  accuracy  and  taste. 

After  the  colouring  matter  has  remained  three  or  four  days  in  the 
calabashes,  they  are  put  into  a  native  oven  and  baked.  When 
they  are  taken  out,  all  the  parts  previously  marked  appear  beauti- 
fully brown  or  black,  while  those  places,  where  the  outer  skin  had 
not  been  broken,  retain  their  natural  bright  yellow  colour.  The 
dye  is  now  emptied  out,  and  the  calabash  dried  in  the  sun;  the 
whole  of  the  outside  appears  perfectly  smooth  and  shining,  while  the 
colours  imparted  by  the  above  process  remain  indelible. 

USES   OF   THE   CANDLE   NUT. 

Large  quantities  of  kukui,  or  candle  nuts,  hung  in  long  strings  in 
different  parts  of  Arapai's  dwelling.  These  are  the  fruit  of  the 
aleurites  triloba;  a  tree  which  is  abundant  in  the  mountains,  and 
highly  serviceable  to  the  natives. 

It  furnishes  a  gum,  which  they  use  in  preparing  varnish  for  their 
tapa,  or  native  cloth. 

The  inner  bark  produces  a  permanent  dark-red  dye,  but  the 
nuts  are  the  most  valuable  part;  they  are  heart-shaped,  about  the 
size  of  a  walnut,  and  are  produced  in  abundance. 

Sometimes  the  natives  burn  them  to  charcoal,  which  they  pulverize, 
and  use  in  tatauing  their  skin,  painting  their  canoes,  surf-boards,  idols, 
or  drums;   but  they  are  generally  used  as  a  substitute  for  candles 


282 

or  lamps.  When  designed  for  this  purpose,  they  are  slightly  baked 
in  a  native  oven,  after  which  the  shell,  which  is  exceedingly  hard, 
is  taken  off,  and  a  hole  perforated  in  the  kernel,  through  which  a 
rush  is  passed,  and  they  are  hung  up  for  use,  as  we  saw  them  at  this 
place. 

When  employed  for  fishing  by  torch-light,  four  or  five  strings  are 
enclosed  in  the  leaves  of  the  pandanus,  which  not  only  keeps  them 
together,  but  renders  the  light  more  brilliant. 

When  they  use  them  in  their  houses,  ten  or  twelve  are  strung  on 
the  thin  stalk  of  the  cocoa-nut  leaf,  and  look  like  a  number  of  peeled 
chestnuts   on   a  long  skewer. 

The  person  who  has  charge  of  them  lights  a  nut  at  one  end  of  the 
stick,  and  holds  it  up,  till  the  oil  it  contains  is  consumed,  when  the 
flame  kindles  on  the  one  beneath  it,  and  he  breaks  off  the  extinct 
nut  with  a  short  piece  of  wood,  which  serves  as  a  pair  of  snuffers. 

Each  nut  will  burn  two  or  three  minutes,  and,  if  attended,  give 
a  tolerable  light.  We  have  often  had  occasion  to  notice,  with  ad- 
miration, the  merciful  and  abundant  provision  which  the  God  of 
nature  has  made  for  the  comfort  of  those  insulated  people,  which  is 
strikingly  manifested  by  the  spontaneous  growth  of  this  valuable 
tree  in  all  the  islands;  a  great  convenience  is  hereby  secured,  with 
no  other  trouble  than  picking  up  the  nuts  from  under  the  trees. 

The  tree  is  large,  the  leaves  and  wood  remarkably  white;  and 
though  the  latter  is  not  used  by  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  except  oc- 
casionally in  making  fences,  small  canoes  are  frequently  made  of  it 
by  the  Society  Islanders. 

In  addition  to  the  above  purposes,  the  nuts  are  often  baked  or 
roasted  as  an  article  of  food,  which  the  natives  eat  with  salt. 

The  nut  contains  a  large  portion  of  oil,  which,  possessing  the  prop- 
erty of  drying,  is  useful  in  painting;  and  for  this  purpose  quantities 
are  carried  by  the  Eussian  vessels  to  their  settlements  on  the  north- 
west coast  of  America. 

A   FAREWELL    SERVICE   AT   WAIMANU. 

Before  we  prepared  for  our  departure,  we  requested  that  the  people 
of  the  place  might  assemble  to  hear  the  word  which  we  had  to  speak 
to  them.  About  200  collected,  and  were  addressed  from  John  vi.  40. 
They  gave  good  attention,  particularly  the  wife  of  Arapai,  who  was 
afflicted  with  an  affection  of  the  spine,  which  prevented  her  walking 
without  support.  She  called  us  to  her  after  the  service,  and  told 
us  she  had  incurred  the  displeasure  of  the  gods  by  eating  a  fish  that 
was  tabu,  or  sacred,  and  that  the  disease  which  rendered  her  a 
cripple  was  her  punishment.  She  said  she  had  felt  great  pleasure 
on  hearing  the  invitation  of  Jesus  Christ,  desired  to  go  to  him  and 
obey   his   word,   inquiring   at   the    same   time    very   earnestly,   if   we 


283 

thought  he  could  and  would  save  her.  We  told  her  that  eating  the 
tabu  fish  was  not  the  cause  of  her  suffering,  and  encouraged  her  to 
repair,  by  faith,  to  Him  who  was  able  and  willing  to  heal  her  body 
if  he  saw  fit,  and  who  would  assuredly  save  her  soul,  if  she  applied 
in  a  right  manner;  repeating  several  of  the  most  precious  promises 
of  our  blessed  Lord  to  those  that  are  weary  and  heavy  laden  with 
sin,  and  desire  salvation  through  his  mercy. 

Numbers  of  the  people  crowded  round  us  when  the  service  was 
ended,  and  with  earnestness  besought  us  to  sit  down  and  repeat 
several  of  the  truths  they  had  heard  respecting  the  name  and  at- 
tributes of  Jehovah,  his  law,  and  the  name  and  offices  of  Jesus  Christ 
the  only  Saviour.  They  also  requested  to  be  more  particularly  in- 
formed in  what  manner  they  should  pray  to  him,  and  how  they  should 
know  when  the  Sabbath-day  came. 

We  told  them  to  go  to  Jehovah  in  prayer,  as  a  child  went  to  its 
parents,  assuring  them  they  would  find  him  more  ready  to  attend  to 
them,  than  the  fondest  earthly  parent  was  to  listen  to  his  most  be- 
loved child.  This  did  not  satisfy  them;  we,  therefore,  after  observing 
that  God  did  not  regard  so  much  the  words,  as  the  desires  of  the 
heart,  mentioned  several  expressions  of  praise,  confession,  and  peti- 
tion— which  the  natives  repeated  after  us  till  they  could  recite  them 
correctly. 

The  chief  then  sent  for  a  youth,  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  of 
whom  he  seemed  very  fond,  and  after  he  and  his  wife  had  requested 
him  to  attend  very  particularly  to  what  he  should  hear,  they  requested 
us  to  repeat  to  him  what  we  had  told  them.  We  did  so;  the  youth 
evidently  tried  to  treasure  up  the  words  in  his  memory;  and  when 
he  could  repeat  correctly  what  had  been  told  him,  the  parents  ap- 
peared highly  pleased. 

Indeed,  the  greater  part  of  the  people  seemed  to  regard  the  tidings 
of  ora  roa  ia  Jesu,  (endless  life  by  Jesus,)  as  the  most  joyful  news 
they  had  ever  heard;  "breaking  upon  them,"  to  use  the  expressions 
of  the  natives  on  another  occasion,  "like  light  in  the  morning." 

The  chief's  wife  in  particular  exclaimed  aloud,  "Will  my  spirit 
never  die?  and  can  this  poor  weak  body  live  again?" 

TRIP   FROM    WAIMAXU   TO    HONOKANE. 

When  we  departed,  she  rose  up,  and,  by  the  help  of  two  sticks, 
walked  down  to  the  beach  with  us.  Here  we  took  an  affectionate 
leave,  and  then  stepped  into  a  canoe,  which  Arapai  had  provided  to 
convey  us  as  far  as  Honokane,  the  first  village  in  the  division  of 
Kohala. 

As  the  canoe  pushed  off  from  the  shore,  we  again  bade  them  Care- 
well.  When  we  saw  the  interesting  group  standing  on  the  beach,  we 
could  not  but  feel  the  must   lively  concern   fur  their  welfare,  and 


284 

involuntarily  besought  the  great  Redeemer,  that  his  holy  Spirit  might 
be  poured  out  upon  them,  that  the  seed  sown  among  them  might  take 
root  in  their  hearts,  and  produce  an  abundant  harvest  to  his  praise. 

FORMATION  OP  LAUPAHOEHOE  NO.  2. 

After  leaving  Waimanu,  we  passed  by  Laupahoehoe,  a  second  village 
of  that  name  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  where,  according  to  the  ac- 
counts of  the  natives,  about  eight  or  nine  months  before,  an  im- 
mense mass  of  rocks  had  suddenly  fallen  down.  The  mountain  that 
remained  appeared  nearly  600  feet  high.  The  face  next  the  sea  was 
perpendicular,  and  as  smooth  as  a  compact  piece  of  masonry.  The 
rock  appeared  volcanic,  and  the  different  strata  of  highly  vesicular 
lava  were  very  distinct.  In  several  places  we  saw  the  water  oozing 
from  the  face  of  the  rock  200  or  300  feet  from  the  summit. 

The  mass  that  had  fallen  lay  in  ruins  at  the  base,  where  it  had 
formed  two  considerable  hills,  filled  up  a  large  fish-pond  and  part  of 
the  sea,  presenting  altogether  a  scene  of  wide-spread  desolation. 

The  original  surface  of  the  ground  appeared  to  have  been  broken 
by  an  earthquake,  as  some  parts  were  rent  by  deep  chasms,  others 
sunk  down  six  or  twelve  feet  lower  than  the  rest.  The  shrubs  and 
grass  were  growing  luxuriantly  on  the  upper  or  original,  and  lower 
or  fallen  surface,  while  the  perpendicular  space  between  them  in- 
dicated that  the  latter  had  recently  sunk  down  from  the  former. 

Wrecks  of  houses  were  seen  in  several  places,  some  partly  buried  by 
the  ruins,  others  standing  just  on  the  edge  of  the  huge  rocks  that 
had  fallen  from  above.  Several  houses  were  standing  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, but  all  seemed  deserted. 

The  natives,  say  that  in  the  evening  when  the  accident  took  place, 
a  mist  or  fog  was  seen  to  envelop  the  summits  of  the  precipice,  and 
that  after  the  sun  had  set,  a  luminous  appearance,  like  a  lambent 
flame,  was  observed  issuing  from  and  playing  about  the  top,  which 
made  them  think  it  was  a  forerunner  of  Pele,  or  volcanic  fire.  A 
priest  of  Pele  and  his  family,  residing  in  one  of  the  villages  below, 
immediately  offered  his  prayer  to  the  goddess,  and  told  the  inhabitants 
that  no  harm  would  befall  them. 

About  ten  o'clock  at  night,  however,  the  whole  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, for  nearly  half  a  mile  in  extent  along  the  shore,  fell  down  with 
a  horrid  crash. 

Part  of  two  small  villages  were  destroyed,  and  several  of  the  in- 
habitants killed,  but  the  natives  did  not  agree  as  to  the  numbers; 
some  said  twenty  were  killed,  others  only  eighteen. 

The  people  with  whom  we  talked  on  the  spot,  and  at  other  places 
subsequently,  could  not  recollect  having  heard  the  natives  who  es- 
caped say  any  thing  about  an  earthquake  at  the  time. 


285 
TRAILS   ALONG  KOHALA   MOUNTAIN   BLUFFS. 

We  did  not  land  at  this  place,  but  passed  close  to  the  shore,  and 
continued  to  sail  along  at  the  base  of  steep  mountains,  500  or  600 
feet  high;  and  although  nearly  perpendicular,  they  were  intersected 
here  and  there  by  winding  paths,  which  we  at  first  thought  could  be 
travelled  only  by  goats,  but  up  which  we  afterwards  saw  one  or  two 
groups  of  travellers  pursuing  their  steep  and  rugged  way. 

About  noon  we  passed  Honokea,  a  narrow  valley  which  separates 
the  divisions  of  Hamakua  and  Kohala,  and  shortly  after  reached 
Honokane,  the   second  village  in  the  latter. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    HAMAKUA    DISTRICT. 

The  division  of  Hamakua,  on  the  N.  E.  side  of  the  island,  is,  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  year,  singularly  romantic  in  its  appearance, 
particularly  as  seen  from  a  vessel  four  or  five  miles  out  at  sea. 

The  coast  is  bold  and  steep,  and  the  cliffs,  from  three  to  five  hun- 
dred feet  high,  partially  covered  with  shrubs  and  herbage,  inter- 
sected by  numerous  deep  ravines  and  valleys,  frequently  in  a  high 
state  of  cultivation,  while  the  whole  coast  is  ornamented  with  water- 
falls and  cascades  of  every  description.  I  once  beheld  three-and- 
twenty  at  one  time  from  a  ship's  deck,  some  rolling  in  one  continued 
stream  from  the  summit  of  the  cliffs  to  the  sea,  others  foaming  and 
winding  among  the  ledges  of  rock  that  arrested  their  progress,  spark- 
ling among  the  verdant  shrubs  that  fringed  their  borders,  and  alto- 
gether presenting  a  most  delightful  spectacle. 

EXPERIENCES   AT   HONOKANE. 

We  landed  at  Honokane,  and  went  through  the  village  to  the  house 
of  Ihikaina,  chief  woman  of  the  place,  and  sister  to  Arapai,  the  chief 
of  Waimanu,  from  which  this  district  is  distant  about  twenty  miles. 
Ihikaina  received  us  kindly,  and  for  our  refreshment  provided  a  duck, 
some  vegetables,  and  a  small  quantity  of  excellent  goat's  milk,  large 
flocks  of  which  are  reared  by  some  of  the  natives  for  the  supply  of 
ships  touching  at  the  islands  for  refreshments. 

The  valley  contained  fifty  houses.  A  number  of  the  people  collected 
round    the   door  of  the  house,  and  listened  to  a  short  address. 

GREAT   LAND    SLIDE    NEAR    POLOLU. 

About  4  p.  m.  we  left  Honokane,  and  passed  on  to  Pololu.  On 
our  way  we  walked  over  a  long  tract  of  fragments  of  rocks,  occa- 
sioned by  the  falling  down  of  a  side  of  the  mountain,  which  took 
place  at  the  same  time  that  the  mass  of  rocks  tell  at  Laupahoehoe, 
which  we  had  passed  in  the  forenoon. 


It  was  impossible,  without  considerable  emotion,  to  walk  over  these 
rocks;  some  of  them  were  broken  in  small  pieces,  others  in  blocks  of 
several  tons  weight,  each  lying  exactly  as  it  had  fallen,  the  fractures 
fresh,  and  the  surface  hardly  discoloured,  while  the  steep  side  of  the 
mountain  from  which  they  had  fallen  looked  as  smooth  and  even  as  if 
the  mass  below  had  been  separated  from  it  only  a  few  minutes  before. 

In  some  places  between  Honokane  and  Pololu,  we  had  to  walk  in 
the  sea,  where  the  water  was  up  to  the  knees,  but  by  watching  the 
surf  we  passed  by  without  much  inconvenience. 

POLOLU  DESCRIBED. 

Pololu  is  a  pleasant  village,  situated  in  a  small  cultivated  valley, 
having  a  fine  stream  of  water  flowing  down  its  centre,  while  lofty 
mountains  rise  on  either  side. 

The  houses  stand  principally  on  the  beach,  but  as  we  did  not  see 
many  of  the  inhabitants,  we  passed  on,  ascended  the  steep  mountain 
on  the  north  side,  and  kept  on  our  way.  The  country  was  fertile, 
and  seemed  populous,  though  the  houses  were  scattered,  and  more 
than  three  or  four  seldom  appeared  together.  The  streams  of  water 
were  frequent,  and  a  large  quantity  of  ground  was  cultivated  on 
their  banks,  and  in  the  vicinity. 

About  sun-set  we  passed  the  residence  of  Mr.  Parker,  an  Amer- 
ican, who  has  resided  a  number  of  years  on  the  island,  and  cultivated 
a  considerable  tract  of  ground.  As  he  was  in  the  mountains  shoot- 
ing wild  cattle  for  the  king  and  Karaimoku,  we  did  not  stop  at  his 
farm.  During  our  journey  this  day,  we  passed  by  458  houses;  but 
as  we  travelled  part  of  the  way  six  or  eight  miles  from  the  shore, 
in  order  to  avoid  the  frequent  and  deep  ravines,  it  is  probable  there 
were  several  villages  which  we  did  not  see. 

HOSPITABLE  CUSTOMS    OF  THE  HAWAIIANS. 

About  seven  in  the  evening  we  reached  Halaua,  the  residence  of 
Miomioi,  a  friend  and  favourite  of  the  late  king  Tamehameha.  He 
gave  us  a  hearty  welcome,  with  the  accustomed  courtesy  of  a  Ha- 
waiian chief,  saying,  "Our  house  is  large,  and  there  are  plenty  of 
sleeping  mats  for  us." 

The  hospitality  of  the  chiefs,  both  of  the  Society  and  Sandwich 
Islands,  is  always  accompanied  with  a  courtesy  of  behaviour  pecu- 
liarly gratifying  to  those  who  are  their  guests,  and  indicating  a 
degree   of  refinement  seldom  witnessed  among  uncivilized  nations. 

The  usual  salutation  is  Aroha  (attachment,)  or  Aroha  nui  (at- 
tachment great;)  and  the  customary  invitation  to  partake  of  some 
refreshment  is,  "The  food  (a  kakou)  belonging  to  you  and  us  is 
ready;   let  us  eat   together";    always  using  the   pronoun  kakou,   or 


287 

kaua,  which  includes  the  person  addressed,  as  well  as  the  speaker. 

On  entering  a  chief's  house,  should  we  remark,  Tour's  is  a  strong 
or  convenient  house,  he  would  answer,  "It  is  a  good  house  for  (or 
belonging  to)   you  and  me." 

If,  on  entering  a  house,  or  examining  a  fine  canoe  or  piece  of 
cloth,  we  should  ask  who  it  belongs  to,  another  person  would  tell 
us  the  possessor's  name;  but  if  we  happened  to  inquire  of  the  owner 
himself,  he  would  invariably  answer,  "It  is  yours  and  mine."  The 
same  desire  to  please  is  manifested  in  a  variety  of  ways. 

The  manner  in  which  they  frequently  ask  a  favour  of  each  other  is 
singular,  usually  prefacing  it  with,  "I  rea  oe, "  If  pleasing  to  you. 
Hence  we  often  have  a  message  or  note  to  the  following  effect:  "If 
pleasing  to  you,  I  should  like  a  sheet  of  writing  paper  or  a  pen; 
but  if  it  would  not  give  you  pleasure  to  send  it,  I  do  not  wish  it." 

ENTERTAINED   AT   HALAWA. 

Soon  after  we  had  entered  his  house,  a  salt  flying-fish  was  broiled 
for  supper.  A  large  copper  boiler  was  also  brought  out,  and  tea  was 
made  with  some  dried  mint,  which,  he  said,  he  had  procured  many 
months  ago  from  ships  at  Towaihae. 

He  supped  at  the  same  time,  but,  instead  of  drinking  tea,  took  a 
large  cocoanut  shell  full  of  ava.  If  an  opinion  of  its  taste  might  be 
formed  by  the  distortion  of  his  countenance  after  taking  it,  it  must 
be  a  most  nauseous  dose.  There  seemed  to  be  about  half  a  pint  of  it 
in  the  cup;  its  colour  was  like  thick  dirty  calcareous  water. 

As  he  took  it,  a  man  stood  by  his  side  with  a  calabash  of  fresh 
water,  and  the  moment  he  had  swallowed  the  intoxicating  dose,  he 
seized  the  calabash,  and  drank  a  hearty  draught  of  water,  to  remove 
the  unpleasant  taste  and  burning  effect  of  the  ava. 

USE   OF   AWA    SUBSTITUTED   BY   LIQUOR. 

The  ava  has  been  used  for  the  purpose  of  inebriation  by  most  of 
the  South  Sea  Islanders,  and  is  prepared  from  the  roots  and  stalks  of 
a  species  of  pepper  plant,  the  piper  methysticum  of  Forster,  which  is 
cultivated  for  this  purpose  in  many  of  the  islands,  and  being  a  plant 
of  slow  growth,  was  frequently  tabued  from  the  common  people. 

The  water  in  which  the  ava  had  been  macerated,  was  the  only  in- 
toxicating liquor  with  which  the  natives  were  acquainted  before  their 
intercourse  with  foreigners,  and  was,  comparatively  speaking,  but 
little  used,  and  sometimes  only  medicinally,  to  cure  cutaneous  erup- 
tions and  prevent  corpulency. 

But  since  they  have  been  so  much  visited  by  shipping,  the  case  Lfl 
very  different.  They  have  been  taught  the  art  of  distillation;  and 
foreign  spirits  in  some  {daces  are  so  easily  obtained,  that  inebriety, 


288 

with  all  its  demoralization,  and  attendant  misery,  is  ten  times  more 
prevalent  than  formerly.  This  is  a  circumstance  deeply  to  be  de- 
plored, especially  when  we  recollect,  the  immediate  cause  of  its 
prevalence. 

CHIEF'S    HOUSE    DESCRIBED. 

The  chief's  house  was  large,  and  one  end  of  it  was  raised,  by 
leaves  and  mats,  about  a  foot  higher  than  the  rest  of  the  floor,  and 
partially  screened  from  the  other  parts  of  the  house.  This  was  his 
own  sleeping  place,  but  he  ordered  a  new  mat  to  be  spread,  and 
obligingly  requested  us  to  occupy  it.  We  did  so,  and  enjoyed  a  com- 
fortable night's  rest. 

After  an  early  breakfast  with  Miomioi  and  his  family,  I  embraced 
the  opportunity  of  addressing  his  people  on  the  subject  of  religion, 
before  they  separated  to  pursue  their  various  avocations.  About 
fifty,   were   present   and   listened   with   silent   attention. 

MIOMIOI   ONE   OF   KAMEHAMEHA'S   FIGHTING   MEN. 

Miomioi,  though  not  so  tall  and  stout  in  person  as  many  of  the 
chiefs,  appeared  a  remarkably  active  man,  and  soon  convinced  us  he 
had  been  accustomed  to  delight  in  war.  His  military  skill  had  prob- 
ably recommended  him  to  the  notice  and  friendship  of  Tamehameha, 
and  had  secured  for  him  the  occupancy  of  the  district  of  Halaua, 
the   original  patrimony  of  that  prince. 

Every  thing  in  his  house  seemed  to  be  preserved  with  care,  but 
particularly  his  implements  of  war.  Spears,  nearly  twenty  feet  long, 
and  highly  polished,  were  suspended  in  several  places,  which  he  was 
very  careful  to  shew  us;  remarking,  that  Tamehameha  always  re- 
quired every  man  to  keep  his  weapons  in  order,  so  as  to  be  ready  for 
war  at  the  shortest  notice,  and  shewing,  at  the  same  time,  an  evident 
satisfaction  at  the  degree  of  care  with  which  his  own  were  preserved. 

Considering  his  natural  disposition,  the  circumstances  and  principles 
under  which  he  had  been  brought  up,  his  total  ignorance  of  the 
gospel  of  peace,  and  the  influence  of  a  superstition  which  gave  greater 
importance  to  war  than  any  other  human  pursuit,  we  did  not  censure 
his  complacency  in  exhibiting  to  us  these  instruments  of  death,  but 
it  was  very  affecting  to  think  of  numerous  bodies  of  men  meeting  to- 
gether with  an  intention  to  murder  each  other. — And  we  may  cherish 
the  hope  that  the  principles  of  Christianity,  when  embraced  by  the 
Hawaiians,  will  produce  that  cultivation  of  peace,  and  that  aversion 
to  war,  which  so  happily  prevail  among  the  Society  Islanders,  and 
of  which,  since  their  reception  of  the  gospel,  they  have  given  so  many 
illustrations. 

KAMEHAMEHA'S    HOME. 

Between  seven  and  eight,  Miomioi,  dressed  in  a  blue  jacket  and 
trowsers,  shoes  and  stockings,   and  a   sailor's  red  cap  on  his  head, 


289 

conducted  us  down  to  the  village  on  the  sea-shore,  where  he  pointed 
out  to  us  several  places  remarkable  by  their  connexion  with  the 
early  history  of  Tamehameha. 

Halaua  is  a  large  district  on  the  north-east  coast  of  the  island, 
and,  if  not  the  birth-place  of  Tamehameha,  was  the  land  which  he 
inherited  from  his  parents,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  district 
in  the  division  of  Kona,  the  only  land  he  possessed  in  Hawaii  prior 
to  the  death  of  Taraiopu,  and  the  celebrated  battle  of  Keei,  which 
took  place  shortly  afterwards. 

DESCRIPTION   OF  KAMEHAMEHA. 

Tamehameha  seems  to  have  been  early  distinguished  by  enterprise, 
energy,  decision  of  character,  and  unwearied  perseverance  in  the  ac- 
complishment of  his  objects.  Added  to  these,  he  possessed  a  vigorous 
constitution,  and  an  unrivalled  acquaintance  with  all  the  warlike 
games  and  athletic  exercises  of  his  country.  To  these  qualities  of 
mind  and  body  he  was  probably  indebted  for  the  extensive  power  and 
protracted  dominion  which  he  exercised  over  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

In  early  life  he  associated  with  himself  a  number  of  youthful 
chiefs  of  his  own  age  and  disposition,  into  whom  he  had  the  happy 
art  of  instilling,  on  all  occasions,  his  own  spirit,  and  inspiring  them 
with  his  own  resolution;  by  these  means  he  most  effectually  secured 
their  attachment  and  co-operation. 

ENGINEERING    WORK    BY    KAMBHAMEHA. 

Great  undertakings  appear  to  have  been  his  delight,  and  achieve- 
ments deemed  by  others  impracticable  were  those  which  he  regarded 
as  most  suitable  exercises  of  his  prowess. 

Miomioi  led  the  way  to  a  spot,  where,  in  a  small  bay,  the  original 
coast  had  been  a  perpendicular  pile  of  rocks  at  least  100  feet  high. 
Here  Tamehameha  and  his  companions,  by  digging  through  the  rocks, 
had  made  a  good  roail,  with  a  regular  and  gradual  descent  from  the 
high  ground  to  the  sea,  up  and  down  which  their  fishing  canoes  could 
be  easily  drawn. 

At  another  place,  he  had  endeavoured  to  procure  water  by  digging 
through  the  rocks,  but  after  forcing  his  way  through  several  strata, 
the  lava  was  so  hard  that  he  was  obliged  to  give  up  the  undertaking. 
Probably  he  had  no  powder  with  which  to  blast  the  rocks,  and  not 
the  best  tools  for  working  through  them. 

REMINISCENCES    OF    KAMEHAMEHA. 

A  wide  tract  of  country  in  tin*  neighbourhood  was  divided  into 
fields  of  considerable  size,  containing  several  acres  each,  which  he 
used  to  keep  in  good  order,  and  well  stocked   with  potatoes  and  other 

19 


290 

vegetables.  One  of  these  was  called  by  his  name.  He  was  accus- 
tomed to  cultivate  it  with  his  own  hands.  There  were  several  others, 
called  by  the  names  of  his  principal  friends  or  companions,  which, 
following  his  example,  they  used  to  cultivate  themselves;  the  others 
were  cultivated  by  their  dependants. 

As  the  chief  walked  through  the  village,  he  pointed  out  the  houses 
in  which  Taniehameha  formerly  resided,  and  several  groves  of  noni 
trees,  the  morinda  citrifolia,  that  he  had  planted,  as  Miomioi  re- 
marked, before  his  beard   was  grown. 

Tameharoeha  was  undoubtedly  a  prince  possessing  shrewdness  and 
great  strength  of  character.  During  his  reign,  the  knowledge  of  the 
people  was  much  enlarged,  and  their  comforts  in  some  respects  in- 
creased; their  acquisition  of  iron  tools  facilitated  many  of  their 
labours;  the  introduction  of  fire-arms  changed  their  mode  of  war- 
fare; and  in  many  cases,  cloth  of  European  manufacture  was  sub- 
stituted for  that  made  of  native  bark.  But  these  improvements 
appear  to  be  rather  the  result  of  their  intercourse  with  foreigners, 
than  of  any  measures  of  their  sovereign;  though  the  encouragement 
he  gave  to  all  foreigners  visiting  the  islands,  was,  no  doubt,  ad- 
vantageous in  these  respects. 

He  has  been  called  the  Alfred  of  the  Hawaiians;  but  he  appears 
rather  to  have  been  their  Alexander,  ambition  and  a  desire  of  con- 
quest having  been  his  ruling  passions  during  the  greater  part  of  his 
life,  though  towards  its  close  avarice  superseded  them. 

It  has  been  stated  that  he  projected  an  invasion  of  the  Society 
Islands,  but  the  report,  from  many  conversations  on  the  subject  with 
the  natives,  appears  destitute  of  all  foundation. 

KAMEHAMEHA'S  HEIAU  AT   KOHALA. 

Miomioi  also  pointed  out  the  family  heiau  of  Tamehameha,  of 
which  Tairi  was  the  god,  and  the  heiau  was  called  Hare  o  Tairi, 
House  of  Tairi.  It  was  an  insignificant  pile  of  stones,  on  a  jutting 
point  of  volcanic  rocks.  Miomioi,  however,  said  that  the  tabu  was 
very  strictly  observed,  and  the  punishments  incurred  by  breaking  it 
invariably  inflicted  on  the  transgressor;  adding,  at  the  same  time, 
that  Tamehameha  always  supposed  his  success,  in  every  enterprise, 
to  be  owing  to  the  strict  attention  he  paid  to  the  service  and  re- 
quirements of  his  god.  Many  persons,  he  said,  had  been  burnt  on 
the  adjoining  hills,  for  having  broken  the  tabu  enjoined  by  the 
priests  of  Tairi. 

The  Tabu  formed  an  important  and  essential  part  of  their  cruel 
system  of  idolatry,  and  was  one  of  the  strongest  means  of  its 
support. 


291 

PRACTICE   OF   THE   TABU  IN   POLYNESIA. 

In  most  of  the  Polynesian  dialects,  the  usual  meaning  of  the  word 
tabu  is,  sacred.  It  does  not,  however,  imply  any  moral  quality,  but 
expresses  a  connexion  with  the  gods,  or  a  separation  from  ordinary 
purposes,  and  exclusive  appropriation  to  persons  or  things  considered 
sacred. 

Those  chiefs  who  trace  their  genealogy  to  the  gods,  are  called 
arii  tabu,  chiefs  sacred,  from  their  supposed  connexion  with  the 
gods;  and  a  temple  is  called  a  wahi  tabu,  place  sacred,  because 
devoted  exclusively  to  the  abode  and  worship  of  the  gods. 

It  is  a  distinct  word  from  rahui,  to  prohibit,  as  the  ohelo  berries 
at  Kirauea  were  said  to  be  prohibited,  being  tabu  na  Pele,  sacred 
for  Pele,  and  is  opposed  to  the  word  noa,  which  means  general  or 
common.  Hence  the  system,  which  rjrohibited  females  from  eating 
with  the  men,  and  from  eating,  except  on  special  occasions,  any 
fruits  or  animals  ever  offered  in  sacrifice  to  the  gods,  while  it 
allowed  the  men  to  partake  of  them,  was  called  the  Ai  tabu, 
eating  sacred,  but  the  present  state  of  things  is  called  the  Ai  moa, 
eating  generally,  or  having  food  in  common. 

"KAUKAU"    NOT    A    HAWAIIAN    WORD. 

This  appears  to  be  the  legitimate  meaning  of  the  word  tabu, 
though  the  natives,  when  talking  with  foreigners,  use  it  more  ex- 
tensively, applying  it  to  every  thing  prohibited  or  improper.  This, 
however,  is  only  to  accommodate  the  latter,  as  they  use  kaukau 
(a  word  of  Chinese  origin)  instead  of  the  native  word  for  eat,  and 
pikaninny,  for  small,  supposing  they  are  thereby  better  understood. 

The  tabu  separating  whatever  it  was  applied  to  from  common 
use,  and  devoting  it  to  the  above  purposes,  was  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  institutions  among  the  South  Sea  Islanders;  and  though 
it  prevailed,  with  slight  variations,  in  the  different  groups  of  the 
Pacific,  it  has  not  been  met  with  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

TABU  WAS  PRIMARILY  A  RELIGIOUS  CEREMONY. 

Although  employed  for  civil  as  well  as  sacred  purposes,  the  tabu 
was  entirely  a  religious  ceremony,  and  could  be  imposed  only  by  the 
priests. 

A  religious  motive  was  always  assigned  for  laying  it  on,  though  it 
was  often  done  at  the  instance  of  the  civil  authorities;  and  persons 
called  kiaimoku,  (island  keepers,)  a  kind  of  police  officers,  were 
always  appointed  by  the  king  to  see  that  the  tabu  was  strictly 
observed. 

The  antiquity  of  the  tabu  was  equal  to  the  other  branches  of 
that  superstition   of  which  it  formed   so  component   a   part,   und   its 


292 

application  was  both  general  and  particular,  occasional  and  perma- 
nent. 

WHAT   TABU   APPLIED   TO. 

The  idols,  temples,  persons,  and  names  of  the  king,  and  members 
of  the  reigning  family;  the  persons  of  the  priests;  canoes  belonging 
to  the  gods;  houses,  clothes,  and  mats  of  the  king  and  priests;  and 
the  heads  of  men  who  were  the  devotees  of  any  particular  idol, — 
were  always  tabu,  or  sacred. 

The  flesh  of  hogs,  fowls,  turtle,  and  several  other  kinds  of  fish, 
cocoa-nuts,  and  almost  every  thing  offered  in  sacrifice,  were  tabu 
to  the  use  of  the  gods  and  the  men;  hence  the  women  were,  exeept 
in  cases  of  particular  indulgence,  restricted  from  using  them. 

Particular  places,  as  those  frequented  by  the  king  for  bathing, 
were  also  rendered  permanently  tabu. 

Sometimes  an  island  or  a  district  was  tabued,  when  no  canoe  or 
person  was  allowed  to  approach  it.  Particular  fruits,  animals,  and 
the  fish  of  certain  places,  were  occasionally  tabu  for  several  montha 
from  both  men  and  women. 

SEASONS  AND  TERMS  OF  TABU. 

The  seasons  generally  kept  tabu  were,  on  the  approach  of  some 
great  religious  ceremony;  immediately  before  going  to  war;  and 
during  the  sickness  of  chiefs.  Their  duration  was  various,  and  much 
longer  in  ancient  than  modern  times. 

Tradition  states,  that  in  the  days  of  Umi  there  was  a  tabu  kept 
thirty  years,  during  which  the  men  were  not  allowed  to  trim  their 
beards,  &c.     Subsequently  there  was  one  kept  five  years. 

Before  the  reign  of  Tamehameha,  forty  days  was  the  usual  period; 
during  it,  ten  or  five  days,  and  some-only  times  one  day. 
The  tabu  seasons  were  either  common  or  direct. 

COMMON    AND    STRICT    TABUS. 

During  a  common  tabu,  the  men  were  only  required  to  abstain 
from  their  usual  avocations,  and  attend  at  the  heiau  when  the  prayers 
were  offered  every  morning  and  evening.  But  during  the  season  of 
strict  tabu,  every  fire  and  light  on  the  island  or  district  must  be 
extinguished;  no  canoe  must  be  launched  on  the  water,  no  person 
must  bathe;  and,  except  those  whose  attendance  was  required  at 
the  temple,  no  individual  must  be  seen  out  of  doors;  no  dog  must 
bark,  no  pig  must  grunt,  no  cock  must  crow, — or  the  tabu  would  be 
broken,  and  fail  to  accomplish  the  object  designed. 


293 
DOGS,  PIGS  AND  CHICKENS  KEPT  THE  TABU. 

On  these  occasions  they  tied  up  the  mouths  of  the  dogs  and  pigs, 
and  put  the  fowls  under  a  calabash,  or  fastened  a  piece  of  cloth  over 
their  eyes. 

All  the  common  people  prostrated  themselves,  with  their  faces 
touching  the  ground,  before  the  sacred  chiefs,  when  they  walked  out, 
particularly  during  tabu;  and  neither  the  king  nor  the  priests  were 
allowed  to  touch  any  thing, — even  their  food  was  put  into  their 
mouths  by  another  person. 

The  tabu  was  imposed  either  by  proclamation,  when  the  crier  or 
herald  of  the  priests  went  round,  generally  in  the  evening,  requiring 
every  light  to  be  extinguished,  the  path  by  the  sea  to  be  left  for  the 
king,  the  paths  inland  to  be  left  for  the  gods,  &e.  The  people, 
however,  were  generally  prepared,  having  had  previous  warning; 
though  this  was  not  always  the  case. 

HOW  THE   TABU  WAS  MADE   KNOWN. 

Sometimes  it  was  laid  on  by  fixing  certain  marks  called  unu  unu, 
the  purport  of  which  was  well  understood,  on  the  places  or  things 
tabued. 

When  the  fish  of  a  certain  part  are  tabued,  a  small  pole  is  fixed 
in  the  rocks  on  the  coast,  in  the  centre  of  the  place,  to  which  is  tied 
a  bunch  of  bamboo  leaves,  or  a  piece  of  white  cloth. 

A  cocoa-nut  leaf  is  tied  to  the  stem  of  a  tree,  when  the  fruit  is 
tabued. 

The  hogs  which  were  tabu,  having  been  devoted  to  the  gods,  had 
a  piece  of  cinet  woven  through  a  perforation  in  one  of  their  ears. 

DEATH  PENALTY  FOR  BREAKING  TABU. 

The  prohibitions  and  requisitions  of  the  tabu  were  strictly  en- 
forced, and  every  breach  of  them  punished  with  death,  unless  the 
delinquents  had  some  very  powerful  friends  who  were  either  priests 
or  chiefs.  They  were  generally  offered  in  sacrifice,  strangled,  or 
despatched  with  a  club  or  a  stone  within  the  precincts  of  the  heiau, 
or  they  were  burnt,  as  stated  by  Miomioi. 

An  institution  so  universal  in  its  influence,  and  so  inflexible  in  its 
demands,  contributed  very  materially  to  the  bondage  and  oppression 
of  the   natives  in   general. 

The  king,  sacred  chiefs,  and  priests,  appear  to  have  been  the  only 
persons  to  whom  its  application  was  easy;  the  great  mass  of  the 
people  were  at  no  period  of  their  existence  exempt  from  its  in- 
fluence, and  no  circumstance  in  life  could  excuse  their  obedience  to 
its  demands. 


294 
SEVERITY    OP    TABU   RELATING   TO    WOMEN. 

The  females  in  particular  felt  all  its  humiliating  and  degrading 
force.  From  its  birth,  the  child,  if  a  female,  was  not  allowed  to 
be  fed  with  a  particle  of  food  that  had  been  kept  in  the  father's 
dish,  or  cooked  at  his  fire;  and  the  little  boy,  after  being  weaned, 
was  fed  with  his  father's  food,  and,  as  soon  as  he  was  able,  sat 
down  to  meals  with  his  father,  while  his  mother  was  not  only 
obliged  to  take  her's  in  an  outhouse,  but  was  interdicted  from 
tasting  the  kind  of  which  he  ate. 

It  is  not  surprising  that  the  abolition  of  the  tabu,  effecting  for 
them  an  emancipation  so  complete,  and  an  amelioration  so  important, 
should  be  a  subject  of  constant  gratulation;  and  that  every  circum- 
stance tending  in  the  smallest  degree  to  revive  the  former  tabu  should 
be  viewed  with  the  most  distressing  apprehensions. 

The  only  tabu  they  now  have  is  the  Sabbath,  which  they  call 
the  La  tabu,  (day  sacred,)  and  to  its  extension  and  perpetuity  those 
who  understand  it  seem  to  have  no  objection.  Philanthropy  will 
rejoice  that  their  fears  respecting  the  former  are  not  likely  to  be 
realized,  for  should  Christianity  not  be  embraced  by  some,  and  only 
nominally  professed  by  others,  so  sensible  are  the  great  body  of  the 
people  of  the  miseries  of  the  tabu,  that  it  is  very  improbable  it  will 
ever  be  re-established  among  them. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  is  every  reason  to  hope  that  pure  Chris- 
tianity, which  imposes  none  but  moral  restrictions,  and  requires  no  ap- 
propriations but  such  as  it  will  conduce  to  their  own  happiness  to 
make,  will  eventually  pervade  every  portion  of  the  community;  and 
that  while  it  teaches  them  to  render  a  reasonable  homage  and  obe- 
dience to  the  only  living  and  true  God,  and  prepares  them  for  the 
enjoyment  of  his  presence  in  a  future  state,  it  will  elevate  the  de- 
graded classes,  especially  the  females,  to  the  rank  and  influence  for 
which  they  were  designed,  and  render  their  domestic  society  as 
rational  and  happy,  as  under  the  tabu  it  was  abject  and  wretched. 

CAPTAIN  KING  ON   STATUS   OF  WOMEN  IN  HAWAII. 

Their  degraded  condition  appears  to  have  attracted  the  notice  of 
the  intelligent  voyagers  by  whom  the  islands  were  discovered;  for, 
speaking  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  Captain  King,  in  his  Continua- 
tion of  Cook 's  Voyages,  remarks,  ' '  It  must,  however,  be  observed, 
that  they  fall  very  short  of  the  other  islanders,  in  that  best  test  of 
civilization,  the  respect  paid  to  the  women. 

Here  they  are  not  only  deprived  of  the  privilege  of  eating  with  the 
men,  but  the  best  sorts  of  food  are  tabooed,  or  forbidden  them"; 
and  adds,  "In  their  domestic  life,  they  appear  to  live  almost  entirely 
by  themselves;   and  though  we  did  not  observe  any  instance  of  per- 


295 

sonal  ill-treatment,  yet  it  is  evident  they  had  little  regard  or  atten. 
tion  paid  them."     Cook's  Voyages,  vol.  iii.  page  130. 

SANDAL  WOOD   COLLECTING  IN   KOHALA. 

Having  seen  the  most  remarkable  places  in  the  village,  we  took 
leave  of  Miomioi,  and  proceeded  in  a  N.  N.  W.  direction.  The  soil 
was  fertile,  and  vegetation  abundant.  The  coast  towards  the  N.  W. 
point  of  the  island  is  frequently  broken  by  sung  little  bays  or  inlets, 
which  are  invaluable  to  the  inhabitants,  on  account  of  the  facilities 
they  afford  for  fishing.  The  tract  we  passed  over  today  seemed  more 
populous  than  that  through  which  we  had  travelled  yesterday,  but 
we  found  most  of  the  villages  destitute  of  inhabitants,  except  a  few 
women  who  had  charge  of  some  of  the  houses.  On  inquiry,  we 
learned  that  a  short  time  ago  the  people  of  Kohala  had  received 
orders  from  the  king  to  provide  a  certain  quantity  of  sandal-wood, 
and  that  they  were  absent  in  the  mountains,  cutting  it. 

TRADITIONS    OF    PAAO,    A    WHITE    PRIEST. 

At  noon  we  stopped  at  Kapaau,  an  inland  village,  where,  with 
some  difficulty,  we  collected  a  congregation  of  about  fifty,  prin- 
cipally women,  to  whom  a  short  discourse  was  addressed.  When  we 
had  remained  some  time  for  rest  and  conversation,  we  resumed  our 
journey,  and  proceeded  towards  the  north  point  of  the  island,  near 
which  we  passed  through  the  district  of  Pauepu,  in  which  formerly 
stood  a  temple  called  Mokini,  celebrated  in  the  historical  accounts  of 
the  Hawaiians,  as  built  by  Paao,  a  foreign  priest,  who  resided  in 
Pauepu,  and  officiated  in  this  temple. 

A  tradition  preserved  among  them  states,  that  in  the  reign  of 
Kahoukapu,  a  kahuna  (priest)  arrived  at  Hawaii  from  a  foreign 
country;  that  he  was  a  white  man,  and  brought  with  him  two  idols 
or  gods,  one  large,  and  the  other  small;  that  they  were  adopted  by 
the  people,  and  placed  among  the  Hawaiian  gods;  that  the  above- 
mentioned  temple  of  Mokini  was  erected  for  them,  where  they  were 
worshipped  according  to  the  direction  of  Paao,  who  became  a  power- 
ful man  in  the  nation.  The  principal  event  preserved  of  his  life, 
however,  respects  a  child  of  Kahoukapu,  whose  mother  was  a  woman 
of  humble  rank,  but  which  was  spared  at  the  solicitations  of  Paao. 
After  his  death,  his  son,  Opiri,  officiated  in  his  temple;  and  the 
only  particular  worthy  of  note  in  their  account  of  his  life,  is  his 
acting  as  interpreter  between  the  king  and  a  party  of  white  men 
who  arrived  at  the  island. — We  forbear  making  any  comment  on 
the  above,  though  it  naturally  originates  a  variety  of  interesting 
inquiries. 

We  heard  a  similar  account  of  this  priest  at  two  other  places 
during  our  tour,  viz.  at  Kairua,  ami  at  tin-  fir.st  place  we  visited 
after   setting  out. 


29G 
TALES    OF    ADVENTURES    OF    KANA. 

During  our  journey  today  we  also  passed  another  place,  celebrated 
as  the  residence  of  the  brother  of  Kana,  a  warrior;  in  comparison 
with  the  fabulous  accounts  of  -whom,  the  descriptions  in  the  Arabian 
Nights'  Entertainments  are  tame.  He~  is  described  as  having  been 
so  tall,  that  he  could  walk  through  the  sea  from  one  island  to  an- 
other; stand  with  one  foot  on  the  island  of  Oahu,  and  the  other  on 
Tauai,   which   is   seventy  miles   distant. 

The  tale  which  recounts  his  adventures,  states,  that  the  Hawai- 
ians,  on  one  occasion,  offended  a  king  of  Tahiti;  who,  in  revenge, 
deprived  them  of  the  sun;  that  after  the  land  had  remained  some 
time  in  darkness,  Kana  walked  through  the  sea  to  Tahiti,  where 
Kahoaarii,  who  according  to  their  traditions  made  the  sun,  then 
resided.  He  obtained  the  sun,  returned,  and  fixed  it  in  the  heavens, 
where   it   has   remained   ever   since. 

Various  other  adventures,  equally  surprising,  are  related.  The 
numerous  tales  of  fiction  preserved  by  oral  tradition  among  the 
people,  and  from  the  recital  of  which  they  derive  so  much  pleasure, 
prove  that  they  are  not  deficient  in  imagination;  and  lead  us  to 
hope,  that  their  mental  powers  will  be  hereafter  employed  on  sub- 
jects more  consistent  with  truth,  and  productive  of  more  pure  and 
permanent    gratification. 

TRADITIONS  OF  VOYAGES  TO  MARQUESAS  AND  TAHITI. 

In  this  part  of  the  island  there  is  another  tradition  very  gen- 
erally received  by  the  natives,  of  a  somewhat  more  interesting 
character;  and  as  it  may  tend  to  illustrate  the  history  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  the  means  by  which  the  islands  were  peopled,  I  shall 
introduce  it   in  this  place. 

These  traditions  respect  several  visits,  which  in  remote  times 
some  of  the  natives  made  to  Nuuhiva  and  Tahuata,  two  islands  in 
the  Marquesian  group,  and  to  Tahiti,  the  principal  of  the  Society 
Islands. 

One  of  these  accounts  the  natives  call,  "The  Voyage  of  Kama- 
piikai, "  in  which  they  state  that  Kamapiikai  (child  running  or 
climbing  the  sea, — from  kama,  a  child,  pii,  to  run  or  climb,  and 
kai,  the  sea)  was  priest  of  a  temple  in  Kohala,  dedicated  to  Kane- 
nuiakea. 

The  exact  period  of  their  history  when  he  lived,  we  have  not  been 
able  to  ascertain;  but  it  is  added,  that  the  god  appeared  to  him 
in  a  vision,  and  revealed  to  him  the  existence,  situation,  and  dis- 
tance of  Tahiti,  and  directed  him  to  make  a  voyage  thither.  In 
obedience  to  the  communication,  he  immediately  prepared  for  the 
voyage,  and,  with  about  forty  of  his  companions,  set  sail  from 
Hawaii    in    four    double    canoes. 


297 

After  an  absence  of  fifteen  years,  they  returned,  and  gave  a 
most  flattering  account  of  Haupokane,  the  country  which  they  had 
visited.  We  know  of  no  island  in  the  neighbourhood  called  by 
this  name,  which  appears  to  be  a  compound  of  Haupo,  sometimes 
a  lap,  and  Kane,  one  of  their  gods.  Among  other  things,  they 
described  the  one  rauena,  a  peculiar  kind  of  sandy  beach,  well 
stocked  with  shell-fish,  &c.  The  country,  they  said,  was  inhabited 
by  handsome  people,  whose  property  was  abundant,  and  the  fruits 
of  the  earth  delicious  and  plentiful.  There  was  also  a  stream  or 
fountain,  which  was  called  the  wai  ora  roa,  (water  of  enduring 
life.) 

OTHER  VOYAGES  TO  TAHITI. 

Kamapiikai  made  three  subsequent  voyages  to  the  country  he  had 
discovered,  accompanied  by  many  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders.  From 
the  fourth  voyage  they  never  returned,  and  were  supposed  to  have 
perished  at  sea,  or  to  have  taken  up  their  permanent  residence  at 
Tahiti.  Many  were  induced  to  accompany  this  priest  to  the  country 
he  visited,  for  the  purpose  of  bathing  in  the  life-giving  waters,  in 
consequence  of  the  marvellous  change  they  were  reported  to  produce 
in  those  who  used  them;  for  it  was  said,  that  however  infirm,  emaci- 
ated, or  deformed  they  might  be  when  they  went  into  the  water,  they 
invariably  came  out  young,  strong,  and  handsome. 

Without  making  further  remarks,  these  traditions  furnish  very 
strong  evidence  that  the  Sandwich  Islanders  were  acquainted  with 
the  existence  of  the  Marquesian  and  Society  Islands  long  before 
visited  by  Captain  Cook;  and  they  also  warrant  the  inference,  that 
in  some  remote  period  the  Sandwich  Islanders  have  visited  or 
colonized   other   islands   in   the    Pacific. 

About  three  P.  M.  we  reached  Owawarua,  a  considerable  village  on 
the  north-west  coast,  inhabited  mostly  by  fishermen.  Here  we  tried 
to  collect  a  congregation,  but  only  three  women  and  two  small 
children  remained  in  the  place,  the  rest  having  gone  to  Waimea  to 
fetch   sandal  wood   for  Karaiomoku. 

From  Owawarua  we  passed  on  to  Hihiu,  where  we  had  an  op- 
portunity of  speaking  to  a  small  party  of  natives. 

HAWAIIAN  FISHERIES  AND  PISHING   METHODS. 

In  these  villages  we  saw  numbers  of  canoes  and  many  large  fish- 
ing nets,  which  are  generally  made  with  a  native  kind  of  flax,  very 
strong  and  durable,  but  produced  by  a  plant  very  different  from  that 
called  the  phormium  tenax,  which  furnishes  the  flax  of  New  Zea- 
land, and  bearing  a  nearer  resemblance  to  the  plant  used  by  the 
natives  of  the  Society  Islands,  called  roa,  the  urtica  argentea,  or 
candicans  of   Parkinson. 


298 

In  taking  fish  out  at  sea,  they  commonly  make  use  of  a  net,  of 
which  they  have  many  kinds,  some  very  large,  others  mere  hand- 
nets;  they  occasionally  employ  the  hook  and  line,  but  never  use 
the  spear  or  dart  which  is  a  favourite  weapon  with  the  southern 
islanders. 

Quantities  of  fish  were  spread  out  in  the  sun  to  dry,  in  several 
places,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  shores  seem  better  sup- 
plied with  this  article  than  those  of  any  other  part  of  the  island. 

The  shores  of  Hawaii  are  by  no  means  so  well  stocked  with  fish 
as  those  of  the  Society  Islands,  for  though  the  natives  of  the  former 
appear  equally  skilful  and  industrious,  they  have  not  from  the  sea 
either  that  variety  or  abundance  of  fish  which  their  southern  neigh- 
bours enjoy. 

The  numerous  coral  reefs  and  shoals,  and  lagoons  of  salt  water, 
which  surround  the  latter  islands,  while  very  rare  among  these,  is 
the  probable   occasion  of  the  difference  in  this  respect. 

The  industry  of  the  Hawaiians  in  a  great  degree  makes  up  the 
deficiency,  for  they  have  numerous  small  lakes  and  ponds,  frequently 
artificial,  wherein  they  breed  fish  of  various  kinds,  and  in  tolerable 
abundance. 

FROM    KOHALA   TO    KAWAIHAE   BY    CANOE. 

Being  considerably  fatigued,  and  unable  to  find  any  fresh  water 
in  the  village,  we  procured  a  canoe  to  take  us  to  Towaihae,  from 
which  we  were  distant  about  twenty  miles. 

Though  we  had  numbered,  in  our  journey  today,  600  houses,  we 
had  not  seen  any  thing  like  four  hundred  people,  almost  the  whole 
population  being  employed  in  the  mountains  cutting  sandal  wood. 

It  was  about  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  when  we  sailed  from 
Hihiu,  in  a  single  canoe.  The  land  breeze  was  light,  but  the  canoe 
went  at  a  tolerably  rapid  rate,  and  about  eleven  at  night  we  reached 
Towaihae,  where  we  were  kindly  received  by  Mr.  Young.  By  him 
we  were  informed  that  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich  had  arrived  at 
Towaihae  on  the  preceding  Tuesday,  and  had  gone  to  Kairua,  ex- 
pecting to  obtain  a  passage  to  Oahu,  in  a  native  vessel  called  the 
pilot-boat. 

THOUSANDS   OF   MEN  PACKING   SANDAL  WOOD. 

Before  daylight  on  the  22d  we  were  roused  by  vast  multitudes  of 
people  passing  through  the  district  from  Waimea  with  sandal  wood, 
which  had  been  cut  in  the  adjacent  mountains  for  Karaimoku,  by 
the  people  of  Waimea,  and  which  the  people  of  Kohala,  as  far  as  the 
north  point,  had  been  ordered  to  bring  down  to  his  storehouse  on 
the  beach,  for  the  purpose  of  its  being  shipped  to  Oahu. 

There  were  between  two  and   three   thousand   men,   carrying  each 


299 

from  one  to  six  pieces  of  sandal  wood,  according  to  their  size  and 
weight.  It  was  generally  tied  on  their  backs  by  bands  made  of  ti 
leaves,  passed  over  the  shoulders  and  under  the  arms,  and  fastened 
across  their  breast.  When  they  had  deposited  the  wood  at  the  store- 
house, they  departed  to  their  respective  homes. 

AT  THE   KAWAIHAE  WARM   SPRINGS. 

Between  seven  and  eight  in  the  morning,  we  walked  to  the  warm 
springs,  a  short  distance  to  the  southward  of  the  large  heiaus,  and 
enjoyed    a   most   refreshing   bathe. 

These  springs  rise  on  the  beach  a  little  below  high-water  mark,  of 
course  they  are  overflowed  by  every  tide;  but  at  low  tide,  the  warm 
water  bubbles  up  through  the  sand,  fills  a  small  kind  of  cistern, 
made  with  stones  piled  close  together  on  the  side  towards  the  sea, 
and  affords  a  very  agreeable  bathing  place. 

The  water  is  comfortably  warm,  and  is  probably  impregnated 
with  sulphur;  various  medicinal  qualities  are  ascribed  to  it  by  those 
who  have  used  it. 

SALT    PONDS    AT    KAWAIHAE. 

The  natives  of  this  district  manufacture  large  quantities  of  salt, 
by  evaporating  the  sea  water.  We  saw  a  number  of  their  pans,  in 
the  disposition  of  which  they  display  great  ingenuity.  They  have 
generally  one  large  pond  near  the  sea,  into  which  the  water  flows 
by  a  channel  cut  through  the  rocks,  or  is  carried  thither  by  the 
natives  in  large  calabashes.  After  remaining  there  some  time,  it  is 
conducted  into  a  number  of  smaller  pans  about  six  or  eight  inches 
in  depth,  which  are  made  with  great  care,  and  frequently  lined  with 
large  evergreen  leaves,  in  order  to  prevent  absorption.  Along  the 
narrow  banks  or  partitions  between  the  different  pans,  we  saw  a 
number  of  large  evergreen  leaves  placed.  They  were  tied  up  at  each 
end,  so  as  to  resemble  a  shallow  dish,  and  filled  with  sea  water,  in 
which  the  crystals  of  salt  were  abundant. 

USE  OF  SALT  IN  HAWAII  AND  SOCIETY  ISLANDS. 

Although  salt  was  never  made  by  the  Society  Islanders,  who  used 
as  a  substitute  the  sea  water,  in  a  cocoa-nut  shell-full  of  which 
they  always  dipped  their  food  before  eating  it,  it  has  ever  been  an 
essential  article  with  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  who  eat  it  very  freely 
with   their  food,  and  use  large  quantities  in  preserving  their  fish. 

They  have,  however,  besides  what  they  make,  salt  lakes,  which 
yield  them  large  supplies.  The  surplus  thus  furnishcil.  they  dispose 
of  to  vessels  touching  at  the  islands,  or  export  to  the  Russian  settle- 
ments on  the  north-west  coast  of  America,  where  it  is  in  great  de- 
mand for  curing  fish,   &c. 


300 

The  facility  which  many  parts  of  the  coast  afford  for  this  purpose, 
and  the  length  of  the  dry  season,  are  favourable  to  the  process;  and, 
together  with  the  ready  market  which  the  natives  find  for  it,  will 
probably  induce  them,  as  they  advance  in  civilization,  to  manufacture 
it  in  much  greater  abundance. 

In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Goodrich  returned  from  Kairua,  and  in- 
formed us  that  the  pilot-boat  was  at  Keauhou,  and  would  sail  for 
Oahu   in   a   fortnight. 

BUILDING    A    CHURCH    AT    KAILUA. 

He  also  brought  the  more  pleasing  intelligence,  that  the  governor 
was  engaged  in  building  a  chapel  for  the  public  worship  of  God  at 
Kairua,  having  at  the  same  time  enjoined  on  his  people  the  ob- 
servance of  the  Sabbath  as  a  day  of  rest  from  labour  and  amuse- 
ment, to  be  employed,  moreover,  in  religious  exercises.  This  wel- 
come news  rendered  it  desirable  that  one  of  us  should  repair  to 
Kairua,  in  order  to  preach  there  on  the  coming  Sabbath,  and  en- 
courage them  to  persevere  in  the  work  they  had  so  happily  begun. 

It  was  thought  best  that  I  should  remove  to  Kairua,  while  Mr. 
Thurston  remained  at  Towaihae,  with  the  intention  of  visiting  that 
part  of  Kohala  which  we  had  passed  in  the  canoe  on  Wednesday 
evening,  and  also  the  most  populous  places  in  the  vicinity.  This 
arrangement,  however,  prevented  our  again  uniting  till  we  arrived  at 
Oahu. 

THURSTON    VISITS    KOHALA. 

On  the  23d  Mr.  Thurston  left  Towaihae,  and  walked  along  the 
shore  towards  the  north  point.  About  noon  he  reached  a  small 
village,  called  Kipi,  where  he  preached  to  the  people;  and  as  there 
was  only  one  village  between  Kipi  and  the  place  where  I  had  preach- 
ed on  Wednesday  evening,  he  retraced  his  steps  to  Towaihae.  He 
preached  at  four  other  villages  on  his  return,  where  the  congrega- 
tions, though  not  numerous,  were  attentive.  The  heat  of  the  sun 
was  oppressive,  and  the  labours  of  the  day  fatiguing,  yet  it  may  be 
hoped  that  some  good  was  effected.  The  coast  was  barren;  the 
rocks  volcanic;  the  men  were  all  employed  in  fishing;  and  Mr. 
Thurston  was  informed  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  plantations,  about 
seven  miles  in  the  interior,  were  far  more  numerous  than  on  the 
shore.  In  the  evening  he  reached  Towaihae,  and  found  that  Mr. 
Goodrich  had  departed  from  Waimea,  intending,  after  the  Sabbath, 
to  ascend  Mouna-Kea. 

The  24th  was,  probably,  the  first  Christian  Sabbath  ever  enjoyed 
by  the  people  of  Towaihae,  which  is  a  village  containing  100  houses. 
Mr.  Thurston  preached  twice  to  the  people. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  25th,  the  brig  Nio  arrived  from  Oahu, 
intending  to  remain  five   or  six  days,   and  then  return. 


301 
MR.   THURSTON   VISITS  WAIMEA  POPULATION. 

About  five  p.  m.  Mr.  Thurston  set  out  on  a  visit  to  the  inland 
district  of  Waimea,  having  been  furnished  with  a  guide  by  Mr. 
Young.  It  was  dark  when  he  reached  Ouli,  a  place  belonging  to  the 
latter,  where  he  put  up  for  the  night. 

After  worship  with  the  people,  on  the  morning  of  the  26th,  Mr. 
Thurston  walked  on  to  Kalaloa,  the  residence  of  the  chief  of  Waimea, 
Kumuokapiki,  (Stump  of  Cabbage),  Leaving  Kalaloa,  he  walked  on 
to  Waiakea,  from  thence  to  Waikaloa,  Pukalani,  and  Puukapu,  which 
is  sixteen  or  eighteen  miles  from  the  sea-shore,  and  is  the  last  village 
in  the  district  of  Waimea.     At  these  places  he  addressed  the  people. 

The  soil  over  which  he  had  travelled  was  fertile,  well  watered, 
and  capable  of  sustaining  many  thousand  inhabitants.  In  his  walks 
he  had  numbered  220  houses,  and  the  present  population  is  prob- 
ably between  eleven  and  twelve  hundred. 

CHARACTER    OF   LAND    IN    HAMAKCA,    KOHALA    AND    WAIMEA. 

The  surface  of  the  country  is  gently  undulated,  tolerably  free  from 
rocks,  and  easy  of  cultivation.  In  this  district,  and  throughout  the 
divisions  of  Hamakua  and  Kohala,  together  with  the  greater  part  of 
Hiro,  the  plough  might  be  introduced  with  advantage,  and  the  pro- 
ductions of  intertropical  climates  raised  in  great  abundance  and 
excellent  quality,  as  the  sugar-cane,  and  other  indigenous  plants, 
grown  at  Waimea,  are  unusually  large. 

From  Puukapu  he  directed  his  steps  towards  the  sea-shore,  and 
in  the  twilight  of  the  evening  reached  Puako,  a  considerable  village, 
four  or  five  miles  to  the  southward  of  Towaihae,  where  he  took  up 
his  lodging  for  the  night.  After  addressing  the  people  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  27th,  Mr.  Thurston  returned  to  Towaihae,  where  he 
arrived  at  10  a.  m. 

MR.  GOODRICH  MAKES  TRIP  TO  MAUXA  KEA. 

About  noon  the  same  day,  Mr.  Goodrich  returned  from  his  journey 
to  Mouna-Kea.  Leaving  Towaihae  on  the  23d,  he  had  walked  to 
Waimea,  on  the  skirts  of  which  he  encamped  with  Mr.  Parker,  who 
was  employed  in  shooting  wild  cattle.  With  him  he  spent  the  Sab- 
bath, which  was  rainy  and  unpleasant. 

Larly  on  Monday  the  25th,  he  commenced  his  journey  up  the  moun- 
tain. The  path  lay  along  the  side  of  a  deep  ravine;  tin-  soil  was 
formed   of  decomposed   lava   ami    ashes. 

At  noon  he  dismissed  his  native  companion,  ami.  taking  his  great 
coat  and  blanket,  began  to  ascend  tin  more  steep  and  rugged  parts. 
The  way  was  difficult,  on  account  of  the  rugged  volcanic  rocks  and 
stunted  shrubs  that  covered   the  .sides  of  the  mountain.      In   his   way, 


302 

he  found  numbers  of  red  and  -white   raspberry  bushes  loaded  with 
delicious  fruit. 

CAMPING    CONDITIONS    AND    EXPERIENCES. 

At  5  p.  m.  having  reached  the  upper  boundary  of  the  trees  and 
bushes  that  surround  the  mountain,  he  erected  a  temporary  hut, 
kindled  a  small  fire,  and  prepared  for  his  night's  repose.  The 
thermometer  shortly  after  sun-set  stood  at  43°;  and  the  magnet, 
though  it  pointed  north  -when  held  in  the  hand,  -was  drawn  between 
two  and  three  degrees  to  the  eastward,  when  placed  on  the  blocks 
of  lava,  owing  probably  to  the  quantity  of  iron  in  the  mountain. 

After  a  few  hours'  rest,  Mr.  Goodrich  arose  at  eleven  o'clock  at 
night,  and  the  moon  shining  brightly,  he  resumed  his  journey  to- 
wards the  summit.  At  midnight  he  saw  the  snow  about  three  miles 
distant,  proceeded  towards  the  place,  and  reached  it  about  one  o'clock 
on  the  morning  of  the  26th.  The  snow  was  frozen  over,  and  the 
thermometer   stood    at    27°. 

CONDITIONS    AT    SUMMIT. 

He  now  directed  his  steps  towards  a  neighbouring  peak,  which 
appeared  one  of  the  highest;  but  when  he  had  ascended  it,  he  saw 
several  others  still  higher.  He  proceeded  towards  one,  which  looked 
higher  than  the  rest,  and  bore  N.  E.  from  the  place  where  he  was. 
On  reaching  the  summit  of  this  second  peak,  he  discovered  a  heap 
of  stones,  probably  erected  by  some  former  visitor.  From  this  peak 
Mouna-Roa  bore  south  by  west,  Mouna-Huararai  west  by  south,  and 
the  island  of   Maui   N.   W. 

The  several  hills  or  peaks  on  the  summit  of  Mouna-Kea  seemed 
composed  entirely  of  volcanic  matter,  principally  cinders,  pumice,  and 
sand.  Mr.  Goodrich  did  not  discover  apertures  or  craters  on  either 
of  the  summits  he  visited;  probably  there  is  a  large  crater  some- 
where adjacent,  from  which  the  scoria,  sand,  and  pumice,  have  been 
thrown  out.  The  whole  of  the  summit  was  not  covered  with  snow, 
there  were  only  frequent  patches,  apparently  several  miles  in  extent, 
over  which  the  snow  was  about  eight  inches  or  a  foot  in  thickness. 
The  ocean  to  the  east  and  west  was  visible;  but  the  high  land  on 
the  north  and  south  prevented  its  being  seen  in  those  directions. 

Mr.  Goodrich  commenced  his  descent  about  three  o'clock,  and 
after  travelling  over  large  beds  of  sand  and  cinders,  into  which  he 
sunk  more  than  ankle  deep  at  every  step,  he  reached  about  sun-rise 
the  place  where  he  had  slept  the  preceding  evening.  The  descent 
in  several  places,  especially  over  the  snow,  was  steep  and  difficult,  and 
rendered  the  utmost  caution  necessary.  After  taking  some  refresh- 
ment at  this  place,  Mr.  Goodrich  continued  his  descent,  and  between 
four  and  five  in  the  afternoon  reached  the  encampment  of  Mr.  Parker. 


303 
WILD    CATTLE    OX    MAUNA   KEA. 

In  his  way  down,  he  saw  at  a  distance  several  herds  of  wild 
cattle,  which  are  very  numerous  in  the  mountains  and  inland  parts 
of  the  island,  and  are  the  produce  of  those  taken  there,  and  presented 
to  the  king,  by  Captain  Vancouver.  They  were,  at  his  request, 
tabued  for  ten  years,  during  which  time  they  resorted  to  the  moun- 
tains, and  became  so  wild  and  ferocious,  that  the  natives  are  afraid 
to   go   near  them. 

Although  there  are  immense  herds  of  them,  they  do  not  attempt 
to  tame  any;  and  the  only  advantage  they  derive  is  by  employing 
persons,  principally  foreigners,  to  shoot  them,  salt  the  meat  in  the 
mountains,  and  bring  it  down  to  the  shore  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
visioning the  native  vessels.  But  this  is  attended  with  great  labour 
and  expense.  They  first  carry  all  the  salt  to  the  mountains.  When 
they  have  killed  the  animals,  the  flesh  is  cut  off  their  bones,  salted 
immediately,  and  afterwards  put  into  small  barrels,  which  are  brought 
on  men's  shoulders  ten  or  fifteen  miles  to  the  sea-shore. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  27th,  Mr.  Goodrich  left  Mr.  Parker, 
and  returned  through  the  fertile  district  of  Waimea  to  Towaihae. 

OTHER   TRIPS    TO    MAUNA   KEA. 

Nearly  six  months  afterwards,  Dr.  Blatchely  and  Mr.  Euggles  as- 
cended Mouna-Kea,  from  Waiakea  bay.  After  travelling  six  days, 
they  reached  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  where,  within  the  circum- 
ference of  six  miles,  they  found  seven  mountains  or  peaks,  apparently 
800  or  1000  feet  high;  their  sides  were  steep,  and  covered  with  snow 
about  a  foot  thick.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  appeared  to  be 
formed  of  decomposed  lava,  of  a  reddish  brown  colour.  The  peak 
in  the  centre,  and  that  on  the  western  side,  are  the  highest. 

The  following  observations  respecting  a  subsequent  visit  to  this 
mountain  from  Waiakea,  contained  in  a  letter  from  Mr.  Goodrich  to 
Professor  Silliman,  of  New  Haven,  are  copied  from  the  Philosophical 
Magazine  for  September,   1826. 

DESCRIPTION  OP  HILO   SLOPE   OP  MAUNA  KEA. 

"There  appear  to  be  three  or  four  different  regions  in  passing 
from  the  sea-shore  to  the  summit.  The  first  occupies  five  or  six 
miles,  where  cultivation  is  carried  on  in  a  degree,  and  might  be 
to  almost  any  extent;  but,  as  yet,  not  one-twentieth  part  is  cultivated. 

"The  next  is  a  sandy  region,  that  is  impassable,  except  in  a  few 
foot-paths.  Brakes,  a  species  of  tall  fern,  here  grow  to  the  size  of 
trees;  the  bodies  of  some  of  them  are  eighteen  Inches  in  diameter. 

"The  woody  region  extends  between  ten  and  twenty  miles  in  width. 

"The  region  higher  up  produces  grass,  principally  of  the  benl   kind. 


304 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  and  whortleberries  flourish  in  this  region, 
and  herds  of  wild  cattle  are  seen  grazing.  It  is  entirely  broken  up 
by  hills  and  valleys,  composed  of  lava  with  a  very  shallow  soil.  The 
upper  region  is  composed  of  lava  in  almost  every  form,  from 
huge  rocks  to  volcanic  sand  of  the  coarser  kind.  Some  of  the  peaks 
are  composed  of  coarse  sand,  and  others  of  loose  stones  and  pebbles. 
I  found  a  few  specimens,  that  I  should  not  hesitate  to  pronounce 
fragments  of  granite.  I  also  found  fragments  of  lava,  bearing  a  near 
resemblance  to  a  geode,  filled  with  green  crystals,  which  I  suppose 
to  be  augite. 

WILD    SHEEP,    DOGS    AND    GOATS. 

"Very  near  to  the  summit,  upon  one  of  the  peaks,  I  found  eight  or 
ten  dead  sheep;  they  probably  fled  up  there  to  seek  a  refuge  from 
the  wild  dogs;  I  have  heard  that  there  are  many  wild  dogs,  sheep, 
and  goats.  Dogs  and  goats  I  have  never  seen.  I  was  upon  the 
summit  about  2  o'clock  p.  m.,  the  wind  S.  W.,  much  resembling  the 
cold  blustering  winds  of  March,  the  air  being  so  rare  produced  a 
severe  pain  in  my  head,  that  left  me  as  I  descended." 

LEGENDS    OP    MAUNA    KEA. 

In  the  native  language,  the  word  kea,  though  seldom  used  now, 
formerly  meant,  white.  Some  white  men,  who  are  said  to  have 
resided  inland,  and  to  have  come  down  to  the  sea  shore  frequently 
in  the  evening,  and  to  have  frightened  the  people,  were  called  na  kea, 
(the  whites.) 

The  snow  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  in  all  probability,  in- 
duced the  natives  to  call  it  Mouna-Kea,  (mountain  white,)  or,  as 
we  should  say,  white  mountain.  They  have  numerous  fabulous  tales 
relative  to  its  being  the  abode  of  the  gods,  and  none  ever  approach 
its  summit, — as,  they  say,  some  who  have  gone  there  have  been 
turned  to  stone.  We  do  not  know  that  any  have  ever  been  frozen  to 
death;  but  neither  Mr.  Goodrich,  nor  Dr.  Blatchely  and  his  com- 
panion, could  persuade  the  natives,  whom  they  engaged  as  guides  up 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  to  go  near  its  summit. 

We  could  not  but  regret  that  we  had  no  barometer,  or  other  means 
of  estimating  the  actual  elevation  of  this  mountain,  either  here  or  at 
Waiakea. 

GOVERNOR  KUAKINI  BUILDS  A  CHURCH. 

Mr.  Bishop,  who,  in  company  with  Mr.  Goodrich,  had  left  To- 
waihae  in  a  canoe  belonging  to  Mr.  Young,  on  the  evening  of  the 
19th,  was  obliged  to  put  on  shore  about  midnight,  on  account  of  the 
rough  sea,  which  rendered  it  dangerous  to  proceed.  Having  slept 
in    the    open    air    till    daylight,    they    resumed    their    voyage    on    the 


305 

20th,  and  reached  Kairua  about  noon,  after  an  absence  of  four  weeks 
and  five  days. 

The  governor  welcomed  their  return,  and  they  were  agreeably 
surprised  to  find  him  engaged  in  erecting  a  building  for  the  worship 
of  the  true  God.  They  learned  that  he  had  during  the  preceding 
week  collected  his  people  at  Kairua,  and  addressed  them  on  the 
duty  of  observing  the  Sabbath  according  to  the  laws  of  Jehovah.  He 
also  told  them  it  was  his  desire  that  they  should  cease  from  work 
or  amusement  on  that  day,  and  attend  divine  service  at  his  house. 

The  people  assented  to  his  proposal,  and  when  the  Sabbath  arrived, 
such  numbers  assembled,  that  hundreds  were  obliged  to  stand  outside. 
Numbers  also  repaired  to  the  house  of  Thomas  Hopu,  to  be  instructed 
in  what  they  denominate  the  new  religion. 

The  next  day  the  governor  directed  the  people  of  Kairua  to  com- 
mence building  a  house,  in  which  they  might  all  meet  to  worship 
God;  and  in  the  morning  on  which  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich 
arrived,  they  had  commenced  their  work. 

HEIAU  FURNISHES   MATERIAL  FOR  CHURCH  BUILDING. 

In  the  afternoon  they  walked  to  the  place  where  the  men  were 
at  work.  Upwards  of  fifty  persons  were  employed  in  carrying  stones 
from  an  old  heiau,  which  they  were  pulling  down,  to  raise  the  ground, 
and  lay  the  foundation  of  the  place  of  worship.  It  was  a  pleasing 
sight  to  view  the  ruins  of  an  idol's  temple  devoted  to  such  a  purpose; 
and  they  could  not  but  hope  that  the  spirit  of  Christianity  would 
soon  triumph  over  the  superstition,  prejudice,  and  wickedness  of 
idolatry. 

The  place  of  worship  is  sixty  feet  long  and  thirty  broad,  erected 
in  the  native  manner,  and  thatched  with  the  leaves  of  the  pan- 
danus.  The  walls  are  ten  feet  high,  with  doors  at  each  end,  and 
four  windows  on  each  side.  It  was  impossible  to  behold  the  work 
without  contemplating  it  as  an  intimation  of  most  benevolent  de- 
signs, on  the  part  of  the  Lord  of  missions,  towards  the  benighted 
tribes  around,  or  without  praying  that  the  time  might  soon  arrive 
when  houses  for  the  worship  of  the  living  God  shall  be  erected  in 
every  district  in  the  islands. 

Recent  intelligence  conveys  the  pleasing  information,  that  five 
or  six  places  of  worship  and  a  number  of  schools  have  already  been 
erected  in  Hawaii,  and  a  proportionate  number  in  other  islands  of  the 
group. 

VICISSITUDES    OF   INTER-ISLAND   TRAVEL. 

On  the  22d,  after  the  return  of  Mr.  Goodrich  to  Towaihae,  a  small 
boat  arrived,  which  had  left  Oahu  some  days  before  for  M:iui,  but  had 
been  blown  so  far  to  the   southward,   that   they    had    with   difficulty 

20 


306 

made  the  south  point  of  Hawaii.  They  stopped  at  Kairua  a  short 
time  in  order  to  procure  water,  for  the  want  of  which  they  had 
suffered  severely.  As  they  intended  proceeding  to  Oahu,  Mr.  Bishop 
wrote  to  the  mission  family  there,  informing  them  that  the  tour 
of  the  island  had  been  accomplished,  and  that  the  missionaries  were 
waiting  an  opportunity  to  return. 

On  the  23d  he  visited  the  well,  and  found  that  the  men  had  not 
made  much  progress.  The  rocks  of  lava,  though  hard,  are  cellular, 
so  that  powder  has  very  little  effect,  and  therefore  they  proceeded 
but  slowly  by  blasting  it. 

NATIVES  OBSERVE  THE  SABBATH. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  was  the  Sabbath,  and  was  unusually 
still;  not  a  canoe  was  seen  in  the  bay,  and  the  natives  seemed  to 
have  left  their  customary  labours  and  amusements,  to  spend  the  day 
as  directed  by  the  governor.  Mr.  Bishop  spent  half  an  hour  with 
him  this  morning,  explaining  in  English  the  21st  and  22nd  chapters 
of  Bevelation. 

I  joined  them  at  breakfast,  having  arrived  at  Kairua  about  an 
hour  before  daylight.  I  had  left  Towaihae  on  the  preceding  day 
at  six  in  the  morning,  in  a  canoe  kindly  furnished  by  Mr.  Young. 

VISITING  VILLAGES   BETWEEN   KAWAIHAE   AND   KAILUA. 

About  nine  a.  m.  I  stopped  at  Kaparaoa,  a  small  village  on  the 
beach,  containing  twenty-two  houses,  where  I  found  the  people  pre- 
paring their  food  for  the  ensuing  day,  on  which  they  said  the  gov- 
ernor had  sent  word  for  them  to  do  no  work,  neither  cook  any  food. 
When  the  people  were  collected,  I  addressed  them,  and  after  answering 
a  number  of  inquiries  respecting  the  manner  in  which  they  should 
keep  the  Sabbath-day,  again  embarked  on  board  my  canoe,  and 
sailed  to  Wainanarii,  where  I  landed,  repaired  to  the  house  of  Waipo, 
the  chief,  who,  as  soon  as  the  object  of  my  visit  was  known,  directed 
the   people  to   assemble  at  his  house. 

At  Kaparaoa  I  saw  a  number  of  curiously  carved  wooden  idols, 
which  formerly  belonged  to  an  adjacent  temple.  I  asked  the  natives 
if  they  would  part  with  any?  They  said,  Yes;  and  I  should  have 
purchased  one,  but  had  no  means  of  conveying  it  away,  for  it  was 
an  unwieldy  log  of  heavy  wood,  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  long,  curious- 
ly carved,  in  rude  and  frightful  imitation  of  the  human  figure. 

After  remaining  there  till  two  p.  m.  I  left  them  making  prepara- 
tion to  keep  the  Sabbath-day,  according  to  the  orders  they  had 
received    from    the    governor. 

KAMEHAMEHA'S   FISH-POND   AT   KIHOLO. 

About  four  in  the  afternoon  I  landed  at  Kihoro,  a  straggling 
village,    inhabited    principally    by    fishermen.      A    number    of    people 


308 

collected,  to  whom  I  addressed  a  short  discourse,  from  1  John  i.  7. 

This  village  exhibits  another  monument  of  the  genius  of  Tame- 
hameha.  A  small  bay,  perhaps  half  a  mile  across,  runs  inland  a 
considerable  distance.  From  one  side  to  the  other  of  this  bay,  Tame- 
hameha  built  a  strong  stone  wall,  six  feet  high  in  some  places,  and 
twenty  feet  wide,  by  which  he  had  an  excellent  fish-pond,  not  less 
than  two  miles  in  circumference. 

There  were  several  arches  in  the  wall,  which  were  guarded  by 
strong  stakes  driven  into  the  ground  so  far  apart  as  to  admit  the 
water  of  the  sea;  yet  sufficiently  close  to  prevent  the  fish  from  es- 
caping. It  was  well  stocked  with  fish,  and  water-fowl  were  seen 
swimming  on  its  surface. 

DISCUSSIONS   WITH   THE    PEOPLE    OF   KIHOLO. 

The  people  of  this  village,  as  well  as  the  others  through  which  I 
had  passed,  were  preparing  to  keep  the  Sabbath,  and  the  conversa- 
tion naturally  turned  on  the  orders  recently  issued  by  the  governor. 

They  said  it  was  a  bad  thing  to  commit  murder,  infanticide,  and 
theft,  which  had  also  been  forbidden;  that  it  would  be  well  to 
abstain  from  these  crimes;  but,  they  said,  they  did  not  know  of 
what   advantage  the  palapala    (instruction,   &c.)    would  be. 

I  remained  some  time  with  them,  and  told  them  I  hoped  mis- 
sionaries would  soon  come  to  reside  permanently  at  Kairua,  whither 
I  advised  them  to  repair  as  frequently  as  possible,  that  they  might 
participate  the  advantages  of  instruction — be  made  better  acquainted 
with  the  character  of  the  true  God,  and  the  means  of  seeking  his 
favour. 

FROM    KIHOLO    TO    KAILUA. 

Just  before  sun-set,  I  left  Kihora.  The  men  paddled  the  canoe 
past  Lae-mano,  (Shark 's-point,)  a  point  of  land  formed  by  the  last 
eruption  of  the  great  crater  on  Mouna-Huararai,  which  took  place 
twenty  years  ago. 

Between  seven  and  eight  in  the  evening,  we  reached  Kaupulehu, 
where  the  men  drew  the  canoe  on  the  beach,  and,  as  the  inhabitants 
were  all  buried  in  sleep,  laid  down  to  repose  on  the  sand  till  the 
moon  should  rise.  About  eleven  p.  m.  I  awoke  my  companions;  and 
the  moon  having  risen,  they  launched  the  canoe,  and,  after  paddling 
hard  several  hours,  reached  Kairua  at  the  time  above  mentioned. 

At  breakfast  the  governor  seemed  interested  in  the  narrative  of  the 
tour,  particularly  of  the  interview  we  had  with  the  priestess  of  Pele 
at  "Waiakea. 

SUNDAY  SERVICES  TO  800  AT  KAILUA. 

At  half-past  ten,  the  bell  rung  for  public  worship,  and  about  800 
people,  decently  dressed,  some  in  foreign,  others  in  native  clothing, 


309 

assembled  under  a  large  ranai  (a  place  sheltered  from  the  sun)  formed 
by  two  large  canvas  awnings,  and  a  number  of  platted  cocoanut 
leaves,  spread  over  the  place  from  posts  fixed  in  the  fence  which 
enclosed  the  court  yard  around  the  house  of  the  governor's  wife. 

The  governor  and  his  attendants  sat  on  chairs;  the  rest  of  the 
congregation  reclined  on  their  mats,  or  sat  on  the  ground. 

After  singing  and  prayer,  I  preached  from  Acts  xvi.  30,  31.  The 
history  of  the  Philippian  jailor  appeared  to  interest  them,  and,  after 
the  conclusion  of  the  service,  the  governor  in  particular  made  many 
inquiries. 

FONDNESS   OF   NATIVES  FOR  DOGS. 

We  have  often  had  occasion  to  notice  the  fondness  of  the  natives 
for  their  dogs.  The  pets  are  usually  of  a  small  size;  and  though  the 
females  generally  evince  the  greatest  regard  for  them,  frequently 
bringing  them  in  their  arms  or  on  their  backs,  when  they  come  to 
our  public  meetings,  yet  the  men  are  occasionally  seen  attended 
by  their  favourite  dog.  This  has  been  particularly  the  case  at 
Kairua. 

AFTERNOON    AND    EVENING    SERVICES    AT    KAILUA. 

At  half-past  four  in  the  afternoon  the  bell  rung  again,  and  the 
people  collected  in  the  place  where  the  services  had  been  held  in 
the  forenoon,  and  in  equal  numbers  seated  themselves  very  quietly. 
The  exercises  commenced  in  the  usual  manner,  and  I  preached  on  the 
occasion  from  Acts  v.  14.  They  were  attentive,  and  appeared  much 
affected  with  the  account  of  the  awful  end  of  Ananias  and  Sapphira. 

After  the  public  exercises  were  finished,  Mr.  Bishop  visited  Thomas 
Hopu's  house,  where  a  small  congregation  was  assembled  for  con- 
versation and  prayer.  Mr.  Bishop  gave  them  a  short  exhortation; 
and  many  of  the  people  remained  after  the  service,  to  hear  more 
from  Thomas  about  Jesus  Christ. 

The  Sabbath  was  spent  in  a  manner  truly  gratifying.  No  athletic 
sports  were  seen  on  the  beach;  no  noise  of  playful  children,  shouting 
as  they  gambol'd  in  the  surf,  nor  distant  sound  of  the  cloth-beating 
mallet,  was  heard  through  the  day;  no  persons  were  seen  carrying 
burdens  in  or  out  of  the  village,  nor  any  canoes  passing  across  tin- 
calm  surface  of  the  bay.  It  could  not  but  be  viewed  as  the  dawn 
of  a  bright  sabbatic  day  for  the  dark  shores  of   Hawaii. 

In  the  evening,  family  worship  was  conducted  a1  the  governor's 
house  in  the  native  language;  his  companions  and  domestics  at- 
tended, and  expressed  themselves  pleased  with  the  singing. 

On  the  27th  it  was  proposed  to  the  governor  to  have  a  public 
meeting,  and  a  sermon,  as  was  tin-  practice  at  Oahu;  but  he  objected, 
Baying  that  the  people  would  nol  attend,  and  it  was  too  soon  yel  to 
have  preaching  among  them  during  the  we< 


310 

Having  hoard  of  the  arrival  of  the  brig  Nio  at  Towaihae,  Mr. 
Bishop  left  Kairua  in  the  evening,  to  return  to  Oahu;  while  I 
remained,  in  order  to  preach  to  the  governor  and  his  people  on  the 
next  Sabbath,  expecting  then  to  reach  Towaihae  in  season  to  proceed 
to  Oahu  by  the  Nio. 

ISLAND   SHIPPING   IN    1823. 

The  natives  possess  no  inconsiderable  share  of  maritime  and  com- 
mercial enterprise.  The  king  and  chiefs  own  fifteen  or  sixteen  vessels, 
several  of  which,  like  the  Nio,  are  brigs  of  ninety  or  a  hundred  tons 
burden.  The  greater  part  of  them,  however,  are  schooners  of  a 
smaller    size. 

The  larger  ones  on  a  long  voyage  are  commanded  by  a  foreigner; 
but  among  the  islands,  they  are  manned  and  navigated  by  the  natives 
themselves.  A  native  captain  and  supercargo  is  appointed  to  each; 
the  former  navigates  the  vessel,  while  the  latter  attends  to  the  cargo. 

The  natives  in  general  make  good  sailors;  and  although  their 
vessels  have  greatly  multiplied  within  the  last  few  years,  they  find 
constant  employ  for  them,  particularly  the  small  craft,  which  are 
continually  plying  from  one  island  to  another,  while  their  larger 
ones  are  either  chartered  to  foreign  merchants,  or  make  distant 
voyages  on  their  own  account. 

VOYAGES    TO    FOREIGN    COUNTRIES. 

They  have  once  sent  a  vessel  to  Canton  loaded  with  sandal  wood, 
under  the  care  of  an  English  captain  and  mate,  but  manned  by 
natives.  They  have  also  traded  to  Kamtschatka  and  other  parts  of 
the  Pacific,  and  have  within  the  last  few  years  made  one  or  two 
successful  voyages  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  seal  skins,  which 
they  have  disposed  of  to  advantage. 

ORIGIN   OF  HAWAIIAN   FLAG. 

The  national  flag  of  the  islands,  which  is  an  English  jack,  with 
eight  or  nine  horizontal  stripes,  of  white,  red,  and  blue,  was  given 
them  by  the  British  government  many  years  ago,  accompanied  by 
an  assurance  that  it  would  be  respected  wherever  the  British  flag 
was  acknowledged. 

SUPPLIES   SOLD   TO   SHIPS. 

Although  they  are  so  expert  in  the  manufacture  of  their  canoes, 
they  have  made  but  little  progress  in  building  and  repairing  their 
ships,  or  in  any  of  the  mechanic  arts.  They  seem  much  more  fond 
of  the  pursuits  of  commerce,  and  are  tolerable  adepts  in  bartering. 
In  exchange  for  foreign  articles,  they  not  only  give  sandal  wood 
and  salt,  but  furnish  supplies  to  the  numerous  vessels  which  visit 
the  islands  for  the  purpose  of  refitting  or  procuring  refreshments. 


311 

In  the  months  of  March  and  April,  and  of  September  and  October, 
many  vessels,  principally  whalers,  resort  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  for 
fresh  provisions,  &c. — we  have  seen  upwards  of  thirty  lying  at 
anchor  off  Oahu  at  one  time.  The  farmers  in  many  places  dispose 
of  the  produce  of  their  land  to  these  ships;  but  in  Oahu  and  some 
other  harbours,  this  trade  is  almost  entirely  monopolized  by  the  king 
and  chiefs. 

OPPRESSIVE    TAXATION   BY    CHIEFS— COMMERCE    "WITH    SHIPS. 

There  is  indeed  a  public  market,  in  which  the  natives  dispose  of 
their    stock;    but    the    price    is    regulated    by    the    chiefs,    and    two- 


The  Hawaiian  Flag. 

Said  by  Ellis  to  have  been  Designed  by  the 
British  Government. 


thirds  of  the  proceeds  of  whatever  the  natives  sell  is  required  by 
them. 

This  is  not  only  unpleasant  to  those  who  trade  with  them,  but 
very  oppressive,  and  retards  in  no  small  degree  the  industry,  comfort, 
and  civilization   of  the  people. 

In  return  for  most  of  the  supplies  which  they  furnish  to  the 
shipping,  they  receive  Spanish  dollars;  but  the  sandal  wood,  &c,  they 
usually  exchange  for  articles  of  European  or  Chinese  fabrication: 
the  silks,  crapes,  umbrellas,  furniture,  and  trunks  of  the  latter,  are 
most  in  demand;  while  those  of  the  former  are  hardware,  earthen- 
ware, linens,  broad-cloth,  slops,  hats,  shoes,  canvas,  cordage,  &c. 

The  season  was  approaching  when  the  whalers,  fishing  on  the  coast 
of  Japan,  usually  put  in  to  some  of  the  harbours  of  these  islands. 
Hence  Karaimoku  had  sent  the  Ni<>  for  B  cargo  of  bogs,  to  meet 
the  demand  for  these  animals,  which  he  expected  would  follow  their 

arrival. 


312 

BISHOP   AND    GOODRICH    RETURN    TO    HONOLULU. 

About  noon  on  the  2Sth,  Mr.  Bishop  reached  Towaihae;  and  in 
the  evening  of  the  30th,  they  received  the  unexpected  information 
that  the  brig  would  sail  that  evening:  Messrs.  Bishop  and  Goodrich 
therefore  went  on  board,  leaving  Mr.  Thurston  at  Towaihae  to  preach 
to  the  people  there  on  the  next  day,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  and 
afterwards  join  the  vessel  at  the  north  point  of  the  island,  where  they 
were  going  to  take  in  hogs  for  Karaimoku,  to  whom  the  division  of 
Kohala  belonged,  though  the  island  in  general  was  under  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  Kuakini  the  governor. 

THE    HAWAIIAN    SYSTEM    OP    GOVERNMENT. 

Their  system  of  government  is  rather  complex;  and  having  occa- 
sionally mentioned  several  of  its  leading  members,  some  further 
account  of  it  will  perhaps  be  acceptable. 

The  government  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  is  an  absolute  monarchy. 
The  supreme  authority  is  hereditary. 

The  rank  of  the  principal  and  inferior  chiefs,  the  offices  of  the 
priests,  and  other  situations  of  honour,  influence,  and  emolument, 
descend  from  father  to  son,  and  often  continue  through  many  gen- 
erations in  the  same  family,  though  the  power  of  nomination  to 
every  situation  of  dignity  and  trust  is  vested  in  the  king;  and  persons 
by  merit,  or  royal  favour,  frequently  rise  from  comparatively  humble 
rank  to  the  highest  station  in  the  islands,  as  in  the  instance  of 
Karaimoku,  sometimes  called  by  foreigners,  William  Pitt.  This  in- 
dividual, from  being  a  chief  of  the  third  or  fourth  rank,  has  long 
been  prime  minister,  in  rank  second  only  to  the  king,  and  having,  in 
fact,  the  actual  government  of  the  whole  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

BASIS  OP  RANK  IN  HAWAIIAN   SOCIETY. 

Hereditary  rank  and  authority  are  not  confined  to  the  male  sex, 
but  are  inherited  also  by  the  females;  and,  according  to  tradition, 
several  of  the  islands  have  been  once  or  twice  under  the  government 
of  a  queen. 

Four  distinct  classes  or  ranks  in  society  appear  to  exist  among 
them.  The  highest  rank  includes  the  king,  queens,  and  all  the  branches 
of  the  reigning  family.  It  also  includes  the  chief  counsellor  or 
minister  of  the  king,  who,  though  inferior  by  birth,  is  by  office  and 
authority  superior  to  the  queens  and  other  members  of  the.  royal 
family. 

SECOND   RANK   IN    SOCIETY. 

The  second  rank  includes  the  governors  of  the  different  islands,  and 
also  the  chiefs  of  several  large  divisions  or  districts  of  land.     Many 


313 

of  these  are  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  families  of  Taraiopu, 
Kehekii,  Teporiorani,  and  Taeo,  who  were  the  kings  of  Hawaii,  Maui, 
Oahu,  and  Tauai,  when  the  islands  were  visited  by  Captain  Cook; 
they  retained  their  power  until  subdued  by  Tamehameha.  Several 
of  them  were  either  the  favourite  and  warlike  companions  of  that 
prince,  or  are  descended  from  those  who  were;  among  whom  may  be 
classed  Kuakini  the  governor,  Kaahumanu,  Piia,  Boki,  Wahinepio, 
Kaikeova,  and  others. 

THIRD   RANK    IN    SOCIETY. 

The  third  rank  is  composed  of  those  who  hold  districts  or  villages, 
and  pay  a  regular  rent  for  the  land,  cultivating  it  either  by  their  own 
dependants  and  domestics,  or  letting  it  out  in  small  allotments  to 
tenants.  This  class  is  by  far  the  most  numerous  body  of  chiefs  in 
the   island. 

Among  the  principal  may  be  ranked  Kamakau  at  Kaavaroa,  Maaro 
at  Waiakea,  Haa  at  Waipio,  Auae  at  Wairuku,  and  Kahanaumaitai 
at  "Waititi.  They  are  generally  called  Haku  aina,  proprietors  of  land. 
This  rank  would  also  include  most  of  the  priests  under  the  former 
dispensation. 

In  the  fourth  rank  may  be  included  the  small  farmers  who  renf 
from  ten  to  twenty  or  thirty  acres  of  land,  the  mechanics,  viz. 
canoe  and  house  builders,  fishermen,  musicians,  and  dancers;  indeed, 
all  the  labouring  classes,  those  who  attach  themselves  to  some  chief 
or  farmer,  and  labour  on  his  land  for  their  food  and  clothing,  aa 
well  as  those  who  cultivate  small  portions  of  land  for  their  own 
advantage. 

ETIQUETTE   TOWARD  AXD   BETWEEN'   CHIEFS. 

Though  the  chiefs  did  not  receive  that  abject  and  humiliating 
homage  which  is  frequently  paid  to  superiors  in  barbarous  nations, 
where  the  government  is  arbitrary,  yet  the  common  people  always 
manifested  a  degree  of  respect  to  the  chiefs,  according  to  their  rank 
or  office.  This,  towards  the  sacred  chiefs,  amountn!  almost  to  adora- 
tion, as  they  were  on  no  occasion  allowed  to  touch  their  persons, 
but  prostrated  themselves  before  them,  and  could  not  enter  their 
houses  without  first  receiving  permission. 

The  behaviour  among  the  chiefs  was  courteous,  and  manifested  ri 
desire  to  render  themselves  agreeable  to  each  other;  while  all  ob- 
served a  degree  of  etiquette  in  their  direct  intercourse  with  the  king 
He  is  usually  attended  by  a  number  of  courtiers  or  favourites,  Bailed 
Punahele,  who  join  in  his  amusements  and  occupations,  excepl  in 
affairs  of  government,  with  which  they  seem  to  have  no  concern. 

When  in  a  state  of  inebriation,  nil  marks  of  distinction   were   lost, 


314 

but  at   other  times  even  these  favourites  conducted  themselves   to- 
wards their  sovereign  with  great  respect. 

I  have  often  seen  Kapihe  and  Kekuanaoa,  the  two  who  accom- 
panied Rihoriho  to  England,  come  into  his  presence,  and  wait  without 
speaking,  whatever  their  business  might  be,  till  he  should  address 
them,  and  then  continue  standing  until  requested  by  him  to  sit  down. 

GOVERNMENT   RESEMBLES   FEUDAL    SYSTEM. 

In  some  respects  the  government  resembles  the  ancient  feudal 
system  of  the  northern  nations.  During  many  periods  of  their  history, 
not  only  the  separate  islands,  but  the  larger  divisions  of  some  of 
them,  have  been  under  the  government  of  independent  kings  or 
chiefs;  and  it  does  not  appear  that  until  the  reign  of  Rihoriho,  the 
late  king,  they  were  ever  united  under  one  sovereign. 

The  king  is  acknowledged  in  every  island  as  the  lord  and  pro- 
prietor of  the  soil  by  hereditary  right,  or  the  laws  of  conquest. 

When  Tamehameha  had  subdued  the  greater  part  of  the  islands, 
he  distributed  them  among  his  favourite  chiefs  and  warriors,  on  con- 
dition of  their  rendering  him,  not  only  military  service,  but  a  certain 
proportion  of  the  produce  of  their  lands. 

This  also  appears  to  have  been  their  ancient  practice  on  similar 
occasions,  as  the  hoopahora  or  papahora,  division  of  land  among  the 
ranakira  or  victors,  invariably  followed  the  conquest  of  a  district 
or  island. 

DIVISION  OF  AUTHORITY  BY  ISLANDS  AND  DISTRICTS. 

Every  island  is  given  by  the  king  to  some  high  chief,  who  is 
supreme  governor  in  it,  but  is  subject  to  the  king,  whose  orders  he 
is  obliged  to  see  executed,  and  to  whom  he  pays  a  regular  rent  or  tax, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  island,  or  the  advantages  it  may  possess. 

Each  island  is  separated  into  a  number  of  permanent  divisions, 
sometimes  fifty  or  sixty  miles  in  extent.  In  Hawaii  there  are  six, 
Kohala,   Kona,   &c. 

Each  of  the  large  divisions  is  governed  by  one  or  two  chiefs, 
appointed  by  the  king  or  by  the  governor,  and  approved  by  the 
former.  These  large  divisions  are  divided  into  districts  and  villages, 
which  sometimes  extend  five  or  six  miles  along  the  coast;  at  others, 
not  more  than  half  a  mile. 

A  head  man,  nominated  by  the  governor,  usually  presides  over 
these  villages,  which  are  again  subdivided  into  a  number  of  small 
farms  or  plantations. 

The  names  of  these  are  generally  significant;  as  Towahai,  the 
waters  broken,  from  a  stream  which  runs  through  the  district,  and 
is  divided  near  the  sea;  Kairua,  two  seas,  from  the  waters  of  the 
bay  being  separated  by  a  point  of  land,  &c. 


315 

Although  this  is  the  usual  manner  in  which  the  land  is  distributed, 
yet  the  king  holds  personally  a  number  of  districts  in  most  of  the 
islands,  and  several  of  the  principal  chiefs  receive  districts  directly 
from  the  king,  and  independent  of  the  governor  of  the  island  in 
which  they  are   situated. 

PAYMENT  OF  RENT  AND  TAXES. 

The  governor  of  the  island  pays  over  to  the  king  annually,  or 
half  yearly,  the  rents  or  taxes  required  by  the  latter.  These  he 
receives  from  the  chiefs  under  him,  who  generally  pay  in  the  produce 
of  the  soil.  Sometimes  the  king  requires  a  certain  sum  in  Spanish 
dollars,  at  other  times  in  sandal  wood. 

This,  however,  is  only  a  modern  regulation,  introduced  since  they 
have  become  acquainted  with  the  use  of  money,  and  the  value  of 
sandal  wood. 

The  rent  was  originally  paid  in  canoes,  native  cloth,  mats,  fishing- 
nets,  hogs,  dogs,  and  the  produce  of  the  soil,  for  the  use  of  the  king, 
and  the  numerous  train  of  favourite  chiefs  and  dependants  by  which 
he  was  surrounded,  and  who  were  daily  fed  from  the  provisions  of 
his  house. 

For  this  tax  the  governor  is  responsible,  and  it  is  his  business 
to  see  it  conveyed  to  the  king,  or  disposed  of  according  to  his  order. 

A  second  tax  is  laid  on  the  districts  by  the  governor,  for  himself. 

The  inhabitants  of  those  portions  of  the  island,  however,  which 
belong  to  other  chiefs,  although  they  furnish  their  share  towards 
the  king's  revenue,  are  not  called  upon  to  support  the  governor  of 
the  island,  but  are  expected  to  send  a  part  of  the  produce  of  the  land 
to  their  own  chiefs. 

After  this  has  been  paid,  additional  requisitions  are  made  upon  the 
poor  people  cultivating  the  land,  by  the  petty  chiefs  of  the  districts 
and  villages;   these,  however,  are  but  trifling. 

NO    FIXED    TAX. 

There  is  no  standing  rule  for  the  amount  of  rents  or  taxes,  but 
they  are  regulated  entirely  by  the  caprice  or  necessities  of  their 
rulers.  Sometimes  the  poor  people  take  a  piece  of  land,  on  condition 
of  cultivating  a  given  portion  for  the  chief,  and  the  remainder  for 
themselves,  making  a  fresh  agreement  after  every  crop. 

In  addition  to  the  above  demands,  the  common  people  are  in  general 
obliged  to  labour,  if  required,  part  of  two  days  out  of  seven,  in 
cultivating  farms,  building  houses,  &c,  for  thrir  landlord. 

A  time  is  usually  appointed  (or  receiving  the  rent,  when  the  people 
repair  to  the  governor's  with  what  they  have  to  pay.  It'  the  required 
amount  is  furnished  they  return,  and,  as  they  express  it.  (komo  hou) 


316 

enter  again  on  their  land.  But  if  unable  to  pay  the  required  sum, 
and  their  landlords  are  dissatisfied  with  the  presents  they  have 
received,  or  think  the  tenants  have  neglected  their  farm,  they  are 
forbidden  to  return,  and  the  laud  is  offered  to  another.  When,  how- 
ever, the  produce  brought  is  nearly  equal  to  the  required  rent,  and 
the  chiefs  think  the  occupants  have  exerted  themselves  to  procure 
it,  they  remit  the  deficiency,  and  allow  them  to  return. 

Besides  the  stipulated  rent,  the  people  are  expected  to  make  a 
number  of  presents  to  their  chiefs,  usually  the  first  fish  in  season, 
from  their  artificial  ponds,  or  from  the  sea,  if  the  land  they  occupy 
be  near  the  coast,  together  with  the  first-fruits  of  the  trees  and 
plantations. 

CERTAIN   LANDS    FREE   OF   TAX. 

Though  these  are  the  usual  conditions  on  which  land  is  held,  there 
are  a  number  of  districts,  called  aina  ku  pono,  (land  standing  erect,) 
held  free  from  all  rent  and  taxes,  except  a  few  presents,  the  value 
and  frequency  of  which  are  entirely  optional  with  the  occupier. 

These  privileges  of  exemption  from  the  established  usage,  were 
probably  granted  originally  in  reward  for  eminent  services  rendered 
the  king,  and  they  continue  permanent,  for  should  the  king,  on  ad- 
count  of  any  crime,  banish  an  individual  holding  one  of  these  dis- 
tricts, the  next  occupant  would  enjoy  all  the  privileges  of  his 
predecessor. 

PEOPLE    PASS    WITH    THE    LAND. 

The  common  people  are  generally  considered  as  attached  to  the 
soil,  and  are  transferred  with  the  land  from  one  chief  to  another. 

In  recently  conquered  districts,  they  were  formerly  obliged  to 
abide  on  the  land  which  they  cultivated,  as  slaves  to  the  victors; 
at  present,  though  they  frequently  remain  through  life  the  dependants 
or  tenants  of  the  same  chief,  such  continuance  appears  on  their  part 
to   be   voluntary. 

No  chief  can  demand  any  service  or  supplies  from  those  who 
occupy  the  land  of  another  without  his  direction. 

The  king  occasionally  changes  the  tenants  of  a  farm,  without  taking 
the  proprietorship  from  the  chief  who  may  hold  it  more  immediately 
from  himself;  and  when  the  rents  are  insufficient  to  meet  his  wants,  if 
any  of  the  neighbouring  farmers  have  potatoes  and  taro  in  their  fields, 
he,  or  any  high  chief,  will  send  their  men,  and  hao  (seize)  the  greater 
part  of  them,  without  making  any  remuneration  to  the  injured  parties. 

HARBOR   DUES   BELONG   TO    KING. 

Besides  the  sums  which  the  king  receives  from  the  land,  and  the 
monopoly  of  the  trade,  in  live  stock  and  other  supplies  furnished  to 


317 

the  shipping  at  several  ports  in  the  islands,  the  revenue  is  augmented 
by  the  harbour  dues  at  Oahu. 

Every  vessel  anchoring  in  the  outer  harbour  pays  sixty  dollars,  and 
eighty  for  entering  the  basin,  or  inner  harbour. 

Till  within  two  or  three  years,  it  was  only  forty  for  one,  and  sixty 
for  the  other. 

ORIGIN    OF    HARBOR    DUES. 

The  demand  for  these  dues  originated  in  their  unprofitable  voyage 
to  Canton  in  1816.  The  cargo  of  sandal  wood  was  sold,  but  instead 
of  a  return  in  cloths,  silks,  &c,  the  vessel  came  back  nearly  empty, 
and  in  debt.  The  king  inquired  the  reason;  when  the  captain,  a 
very  incompetent  person  for  such  a  business,  told  him,  that  some 
of  the  money  had  been  stolen;  that  so  much  was  demanded  for 
pilotage,  coming  to  anchor,  &c,  as  to  leave  nothing  for  the  purpose 
of  fitting  the  vessel  for  sea,  which  had  occasioned  the  debt.  "If," 
replied  the  king,  "that  be  the  case,  we  will  have  a  pilot  here,  and 
every  vessel  that  enters  the  harbour  shall  pay  me  for  anchorage." 

The  pilotage,  which  is  a  dollar  per  foot  for  every  yessel,  both  on 
entering  and  leaving  the  harbour,  is  divided  between  the  govern- 
ment  and   the   pilot. 

OTHER  FORMS  OF  TAXATION. 

Another  singular  method  of  taxing  the  people,  is  by  building  a 
new  house  for  the  king  or  some  principal  chief. 

On  the  first  day  the  king  or  chief  enters  it,  the  chiefs  and  the 
people  of  the  neighbourhood  repair  thither,  to  pay  their  respects, 
and  present  their  gifts. 

Custom  obliges  every  chief  to  appear  on  such  occasions,  or  expose 
himself  to  the  imputation  of  being  disaffected;  and  no  one  is  allowed 
to  enter  without  a  present  of  money.  The  amount  is  proportioned 
to  their  rank  or  the  land  they  hold.  Some  chiefs,  on  such  occasions, 
give  sixty  dollars,  others  ten  or  five,  and  some  only  one. 

A  short  time  before  his  embarkation  for  England,  a  large  native 
house  was  built  for  Eihoriho,  at  Honoruru,  in  the  Island  of  Oahu. 
During  three  days  after  the  king  went  into  it,  the  people  came  with 
their  gifts.  No  individual,  not  even  the  queens,  entered  the  house 
without  presenting  the  king  a  sum  of  money;  several  gave  upwards 
of  fifty  dollars;  and  we  saw  more  than  two  thousand  dollars  received 
in  one  day.  A  similar  tax  was  also  levied  by  Kuukini,  the  governor 
at  Kairua,  when  he  first  entered  a  handsome  framed  house,  recently 
erected    there. 

TRADITIONAL  CODE  OF  LAW. 

Until  the  establishment  of  a  Christian  mission  among  them,  the 
Sandwich    Islanders    had    no    records,    and    consequently    ttO    written 

laws. 


318 

There  is,  however,  a  kind  of  traditionary  code,  a  number  of  regu- 
lations which  have  been  either  promulgated  by  former  kings,  or 
followed  by  general  consent,  respecting  the  tenure  of  lands,  right 
of  property,  personal  security,  and  exchange  or  barter,  which  are 
well   understood,   and   usually   acted   upon. 

The  portion  of  personal  labour  due  from  a  tenant  to  his  chief  is 
fixed  by  custom,  and  a  chief  would  be  justified  in  banishing  the 
person  who  should  refuse  it  when  required;  on  the  other  hand,  were 
a  chief  to  banish  a  man  who  had  rendered  it,  and  paid  the  stipulated 
rent,  his  conduct  would  be  contrary  to  their  opinions  of  right,  and 
if  the  man  complained  to  the  governor  or  the  king,  and  no  other 
charge  was  brought  against  him,  he  would  most  likely  be  reinstated. 

The  irrigation  of  their  plantations  is  of  great  importance  in  most 
parts,  and  there  is  a  law  that  the  water  shall  be  conducted  over 
every  plantation  twice  a  week  in  general,  and  once  a  week  during 
the   dry  season. 

REVERSION  OF  LAND  UPON  DEATH  OP  OWNER. 

On  the  death  of  a  chief,  his  lands  revert  to  the  king  or  the 
governor  of  the  island.  He  may  nominate  his  son,  his  wife,  or  any 
other  person,  to  succeed  to  his  districts,  &c,  but  the  appointment 
must  be  confirmed  by  the  king  or  governor,  before  the  individual  can 
take  possession. 

This  regulation,  next  to  the  tabu,  is  the  most  effectual  mode  of 
preserving  the  authority  and  influence  of  the  king  and  chiefs. 

PENALTY    FOR    MURDER    AND    THEFT. 

In  cases  of  assault  or  murder,  except  when  committed  by  their 
own  chief,  the  family  and  friends  of  the  injured  party  are,  by  com- 
mon consent,  justified  in  retaliating.  When  they  are  too  weak  to 
attack  the  offender,  they  seek  the  aid  of  their  neighbours,  appeal 
to  the  chief  of  the  district,  or  the  king,  who  seldom  inflicts  a  heavier 
punishment  than  banishment  even  for  murder,  which,  however,  is  a 
crime  very  rarely  committed  by  the  natives. 

Theft  among  themselves  is  severely  punished.  Formerly,  when 
a  garden  or  house  had  been  robbed,  and  the  robbers  were  discovered, 
those  whose  goods  had  been  stolen  repaired  to  the  house  or  planta- 
tion of  the  offenders,  and  hao  (seized)  whatever  they  could  find. 
This  regulation  was  so  well  established,  that  though  the  guilty  party 
should  be  strongest,  they  would  not  dare  to  resist  the  retaliation; 
for  in  the  event  of  their  making  any  opposition,  the  people  of  a 
whole  district  would  support  those  who  were  thus  punishing  the  in- 
dividuals by  whom  theft  had  been  committed. 


319 
PENALTY  FOR  ROBBERY  AND  ADULTERY. 

When  robbery  had  been  committed  on  the  property  of  a  high  chief, 
or  to  any  great  amount,  the  thief,  in  some  of  the  islands,  was  fre- 
quently bound  hand  and  foot,  placed  in  an  old  decayed  canoe,  towed 
out  to  sea,  and  turned  adrift.  The  canoe  speedily  filled,  and  the 
culprit,  being  bound,  soon  sunk  beneath  the  waves. 

Adultery  among  the  highest  ranks  has  been  punished  with  death 
by  decapitation. 

LAW    RELATING    TO    BARTER. 

In  the  transactions  of  barter  among  themselves,  there  are  several 
regulations  which  they  punctually  observe.  No  bargain  was  con- 
sidered binding  till  the  articles  were  actually  exchanged,  and  the 
respective  owners  expressed  themselves  satisfied.  Afterwards  there 
was  no  withdrawing,  however  injurious  the  bargain  might  be  to 
either  party. 

There  is,  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  no  class  of  men,  either  peasants 
or  mechanics,  who  are  regularly  employed  as  day-labourers,  or  who 
receive  for  their  work  a  stipulated  payment,  excepting  those  em- 
ployed by  foreigners. 

In  hiring  workmen  to  dig  stone,  burn  lime,  build  a  house  or  canoe, 
&c.  it  is  a  common  practice  among  the  natives  themselves  to  make 
the  bargain  with  a  petty  chief,  who  requires  the  labour  of  all  his 
dependants  in  its  fulfilment.  They  usually  pay  beforehand;  and 
those  who  have  received  such  remuneration  are  bound,  when  called 
upon,  to  perform  their  work,  or  have  their  property  seized,  and  their 
plantations   plundered. 

These,  and  several  similar  regulations,  are  generally  received,  and 
govern  the  conduct  of  the  people.  The  king  can  dispense  with  any 
of  them;  but  such  conduct  would  be  contrary  to  the  established  usage, 
and  is  seldom  done. 

WILL  OP  KING  AND  CHIEFS  IS  SUPREME. 

The  will  of  the  king,  however,  being  the  supreme  law,  the  gov- 
ernment is  more  or  less  arbitrary  as  his  disposition  is  humane  or 
vindictive  and  cruel. 

His  power  extends,  not  only  over  the  property,  but  over  the 
liberty  and  lives  of  the  people. 

This  power  is  delegated  by  him  1"  the  irovernors  of  the  different 
islands,  and  by  them  again  to  the  chiefs  of  the  district.-. 

A  chief  takes  the  life  of  One  Of  his  OWB  people  fOI  any  offence 
he  may  commit,  and  no  one  thinks  lie  has  a  right  to  interfere.  Hut 
though  the  power  of  the  chiefs  is  so  absolute  over  their  own  people,  it 
extends    no    further.      A    chief    dare    BOl     for    any    offence    punish    a 


320 

man  belonging  to  another,  but  must  complain  to  the  chief  on  whose 
land   the  offender  resides. 

CONSTITUTION    OP    COURTS. 

The  king  is  chief  magistrate  over  the  whole  islands.  The  gov- 
ernors sustain  the  same  office  in  the  islands  under  their  jurisdiction, 
and  the  chiefs  of  the  districts  are  the  arbitrators  in  all  quarrels 
among  their  own  people. 

A  man  dissatisfied  with  the  decisions  of  his  chief,  may  appeal 
to  the  governor,  and  finally  to  the  king. 

They  have  no  regular  police,  but  the  king  has  generally  a  number 
of  chiefs  in  attendance,  who,  with  the  assistance  of  their  own  de- 
pendants, execute  his  orders.  The  governors  and  high  chiefs  have 
the  same,  and  employ  them  in  a  similar  manner  when  occasion 
requires. 

The  house  or  front  yard  of  the  king  or  governor  is  the  usual 
court  of  justice,  and  it  is  sometimes  quite  a  court  of  equity.  Judg- 
ment is  seldom  given  till  both  parties  are  heard  face  to  face. 

ORDEALS  FOR  TRYING  ACCUSED. 

They  have  several  ordeals  for  trying  those  accused  of  different 
crimes.  One  of  the  most  singular  is  the  wai  haruru,  shaking  water. 
A  large  calabash  or  wooden  dish  of  water  is  placed  in  the  midst 
of  a  circle,  on  one  side  of  which  the  accused  party  is  seated.  A 
prayer  is  offered  by  the  priest;  and  the  suspected  individuals  are 
required,  one  by  one,  to  hold  both  hands,  with  the  fingers  spread  out, 
over,  the  dish,  while  the  priest  or  the  chief  looks  steadfastly  at  the 
face  of  the  water;  and  it  is  said,  that  when  the  person,  who  has 
committed  the  crime,  spreads  his  hands  over  the  vessel,  the  water 
trembles.  Probably  conscious  guilt,  and  superstitious  dread,  may 
make  the  hands  of  the  culprit  shake,  and  occasion  the  tremulous 
appearance  of  the  water  in  which  they  are  reflected. 

No  unnecessary  delays  take  place  in  the  redress  of  grievances,  or 
the    administration    of    justice. 

I  was  once  sitting  with  Karaimoku,  when  a  poor  woman  came 
to  complain  of  the  chief  of  her  district,  who,  she  said,  had  kept 
the  water  running  through  his  own  plantation  for  several  days,  while 
the  potatoes  and  taro  in  her  garden  were  parched  up  with  drought. 

After  making  a  few  inquiries,  he  called  Kaiakoiri,  one  of  his 
favourite  chiefs,  and  said,  "Go  with  this  woman;  and,  if  the  chief 
has  kept  back  the  water,  open  the  channels,  and  let  it  flow  over 
her  field  immediately."  The  chief  girded  up  his  maro,  and,  fol- 
lowed by  the  woman,  set  off  for  the  district  in  which  she  resided. 


321 

NO  LAWYERS. 

No  lawyers  are  employed  to  conduct  their  public  trials;  every 
man  advocates  Ms  own  cause,  usually  sitting  cross-legged  before 
the  judge;  and  I  have  often  been  pleased  with  the  address  the  differ- 
ent parties  have  displayed  in  exhibiting  or  enforcing  their  respective 
claims. 

CHIEFS    ARE    CONSULTED    BY    KING. 

There  is  no  national  council,  neither  have  the  people  any  voice 
in  the  proceedings  of  government.  But  the  king,  though  accountable 
to  no  one  for  the  measures  he  adopts,  seldom  acts,  in  any  affair  of  im- 
portance, without  the  advice  of  his  confidential  chiefs.  These 
counsellors  are  in  no  degree  responsible  for  the  advice  they  give,  nor 
liable  to  suffer  from  any  conduct  the  king  may  pursue.  He,  however, 
always  pays  a  deference  to  their  opinion,  and  seldom  acts  in  opposi- 
tion to   their   wishes. 

In  all  matters  of  importance,  it  is  customary  to  summon  the 
governors  and  principal  chiefs  of  the  several  islands  to  a  national 
council,  when  the  subject  is  freely  discussed.  Their  deliberations 
are  generally  conducted  with  great  privacy,  and  seldom  known  among 
the  people  till  finally  arranged,  when  they  are  promulgated  through- 
out the  island  by  the  king's  heralds  or  messengers. 

The  king  sends  his  orders  directly  to  the  governor  of  the  island, 
or  principal  chief  of  the  district.  Formerly  a  courier  bore  a  verbal 
message;  now  he  carries  a  written  despatch. 

The  office  of  messenger,  as  well  as  that  of  herald,  is  hereditary,  and 
considered  honourable,  as  those  who  sustain  it  must  necessarily  have 
possessed  the  confidence  of  the  king  and  chiefs. 

PUBLIC  ASSEMBLIES  ON  NATIONAL  AFFAIRS. 

Occasionally  they  hold  public  meetings  for  discussing  national 
affairs.  These  are  interesting  assemblies,  particularly  when  hostile 
chiefs,  or  the  agents  of  opposite  parties,  meet;  national  orators,  and 
counsellors,  whose  office  is  also  hereditary,  are  then  employed.  In 
general,  however,  these  meetings  are  convened  only  for  the  purpose 
of  promulgating  what  has  been  previously  arranged  between  the 
king  and  chiefs. 

STATUS    OF   HAWAIIAN    SYSTEM    OF    GOVEKNM  BNT. 

The  Hawaiian  system  of  government — whether  derived  from  the 
country  whence  the  first  settlers  emigrated,  or  established  by  warlike 
chieftains  in  a  subsequent  period  of  theil  history,  as  an  expedient 
to  secure  conquests,  to  command  the  services  of  tlnir  tenants  on 
occasions  of  war,  and  to  perpetuate   the   influence   which   military 

21 


322 

prowess  or  success  in  the  first  instance  had  given  them,  exhibits,  in  its 
decided  monarchical  character,  the  hereditary  descent  of  rank  and 
office,  and  other  distinguishing  features,  considerable  advancement 
from  a  state  of  barbarism,  and  warrants  the  conclusion  that  they 
have  been  an  organized  community  for  many  generations. 

But  whatever  antiquity  their  system  may  possess,  they  have 
made  but  little  progress  in  the  art  of  good  government. 

PEOPLE    CONSIDERED  AS   PROPERTY   OP   CHIEFS. 

The  well-being  of  the  subject  seems  to  have  been  but  rarely 
regarded  by  the  rulers,  who  appear  to  have  considered  the  lower 
orders  in  general  as  a  kind  of  property,  to  be  employed  only  in 
promoting  the  interests  of  their  superiors;  and  the  ardent  love  of 
wealth,  which  an  acquaintance  with  the  productions  of  foreign 
countries  has  excited  in  most  of  the  chiefs,  has  not  improved  the 
condition  of   the   people. 

PEOPLE   ABJECTLY   SUBJECT   TO   CHIEFS. 

Industry  receives  no  encouragement;  and  even  those  whom  natural 
energy  of  character  would  induce  to  cultivate  a  larger  portion  of 
land  than  was  absolutely  necessary  for  their  bare  subsistence,  are 
deterred  from  the  attempt  by  the  apprehension  of  thereby  exposing 
themselves  to  the  rapacity  of  avaricious  or  necessitous  chiefs. 

Nothing  can  be  more  detrimental  to  the  true  interest  of  the  chiefs, 
and  the  civilization  and  happiness  of  the  people,  than  the  abject 
dependence  of  the  latter,  the  uncertain  tenure  of  lands,  the  insecurity 
of  personal  property,  the  exactions  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  restrictions 
on  trade  with  the  shipping,  which  they  impose. 

As  the  nation  in  general  becomes  enlightened,  it  is  to  be  pre- 
sumed that  the  policy  of  the  rulers  will  be  more  liberal,  and  the 
general  prosperity  of  the  islands  proportionably  advanced. 

RETURN  OF  THURSTON  AND  OTHERS  TO  HONOLULU. 

On  the  31st,  Mr.  Thurston  preached  twice  at  Towaihae  to  attentive 
congregations,  and  with  the  labours  of  the  day,  closed  a  month  of 
toil  and  interest  greater  than  any  he  had  before  spent  in  the  Sand- 
wich Islands.  In  the  retrospect,  he  could  not  but  hope  some  good 
would  result  to  the  people. 

Early  on  the  1st  of  September,  Mr.  Thurston  left  Towaihae  in  a 
canoe  furnished  by  Mr.  Young,  and  at  eight  in  the  forenoon  reached 
the  place  where  the  Nio  was  lying  at  anchor,  on  board  of  which  he 
joined  Messrs.  Goodrich  and  Bishop.  Soon  after  four  in  the  after- 
noon they  weighed  anchor  and  made  sail.  When  they  left  Hawaii, 
the  master  intended  touching  at  Maui;   but  contrary  winds  obliged 


323 

them  to  shape  their  course  towards  Oahu,  ■where  they  safely  arrived 
late  in  the  evening  of  the  3d,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  the 
mission  family  in  the  enjoyment  of  comfortable  health. 

The  time  which  I  spent  at  Kairua  was  chiefly  occupied  in  con- 
versation with  the  governor  on  the  history  and  traditions  of  the 
island;  the  advantages  of  instruction;  and  the  blessings  which  the 
general  adoption  of  Christianity  wTould  confer  on  the  people.  On 
this  latter  subject,  the  governor  uniformly  expressed  his  conviction 
of  its  utility;  and  said,  he  had  therefore  sent  a  messenger  round 
among  the  people,  requesting  them  to  renounce  their  former  evil 
practices,  and  keep  the  Sabbath  according  to  the  direction  of  the 
word  of  God. 

HEIAU   OF  AHUENA   CONVERTED   INTO   A   FORT. 

Adjacent  to  the  governor's  house  stand  the  ruins  of  Ahuena,  an 
ancient  heiau,  where  the  war-god  was  often  kept,  and  human 
sacrifices  offered.  Since  the  abolition  of  idolatry,  the  governor  has 
converted  it  into  a  fort,  has  widened  the  stone  wall  next  the  sea, 
and  placed  upon  it  a  number  of  cannon. 

The  idols  are  all  destroyed,  excepting  three,  which  are  planted  on 
the  wall,  one  at  each  end,  and  the  other  in  the  centre,  where  they 
stand  like  sentinels  amidst  the  guns,  as  if  designed  by  their  frightful 
appearance  to  terrify  an  enemy. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    HAWAIIAN    IDOLS. 

On  the  29th,  I  visited  the  ruins,  and  took  a  sketch  of  one  of  the 
idols,  which  stood  sixteen  feet  above  the  wall,  was  upwards  of 
three  feet  in  breadth,  and  had  been  carved  out  of  a  single  tree. 

The  above  may  be  considered  as  a  tolerable  specimen  of  the 
greater  part  of  Hawaiian  idols.  The  head  has  generally  a  most 
horrid  appearance,  the  month  being  large  and  usually  extended 
wide,  exhibiting  a  row  of  large  teeth,  resembling  in  no  small  decree 
the  cogs  in  the  wheel  of  an  engine,  and  adapted  to  excite  terror 
rather  than  inspire  confidence  in  the  beholder.  Some  of  their  idols 
were  of  stone,  and  many  were  constructed  with  a  kind  of  wicker- 
work   covered  with   red   feathers. 

NATIVE    TRADITIONS    OF    ORIGIN    OF    HAWAIIAN'S. 

In  the  evening  our  conversation  at  the  governor's  turned  OH  tin- 
origin  of  the  people  of  Hawaii,  and  the  other  islands  of  the  Pacific, 
a  topic  which  often  engaged  our  attention,  and  respecting  which,  in 
the  various  inquiries  we  made,  we  often  had  occasion  to  regrel  that 
the  traditions  of  the  natives  furnished  such  scanty  Information,  on  a 
subject  so  interesting  and  important.    This  portion,  however,  though 


324 

small,  and  surrounded  by  an  incredible  mass  of  fiction,  is  still  worth 
preserving. 

The  general  opinions  entertained  by  the  natives  themselves, 
relative  to  their  origin,  are,  either  that  the  first  inhabitants  were 
created  on  the  islands,  descended  from  the  gods,  by  whom  they  were 
first  inhabited;  or,  that  they  came  from  a  country  which  they  called 
Tahiti. 

Many,  as  was  the  case  with  the  chiefs  at  Maui,  and  also  the 
governor  at  this  place  suppose  that,  according  to  the  accounts  of  the 
priests  of  Tane,  Tanaroa,  and  other  gods,  the  first  man  was  made  by 
Haumea,  a  female  deity.  We  have  not,  however,  met  with  any  who 
pretend  to  know  of  what  material  he  was  formed.  * 

Others,  again,  suppose  the  chiefs  to  have  descended  from  Akea, 
who  appears  to  have  been  the  connecting  link  between  the  gods  and 
the  men;  but  this  supposes  the  chiefs  and  the  common  people  to  have 
been  derived  from  different  sources. 

The  accounts  they  have  of  their  ancestors  having  arrived  in  a 
canoe  from  Tahiti,  are  far  more  general  and  popular  among  the 
people. 

When  some  of  our  party  were  at  Towaihae,  the  subject  was 
discussed.  Mr.  Young  said,  among  the  many  traditionary  accounts 
of  the  origin  of  the  island  and  its  inhabitants,  one  was,  that  in 
former  times,  when  there  was  nothing  but  sea,  an  immense  bird 
settled  on  the  water,  and  laid  an  egg,  which  soon  bursting  produced 
the  island  of  Hawaii.  Shortly  after  this,  a  man  and  woman,  with 
a  hog,  a  dog,  and  a  pair  of  fowls,  arrived  in  a  canoe  from  the  Society 
Islands,  took  up  their  abode  on  the  eastern  shores,  and  were  the 
progenitors  of  the  present  inhabitants. 

Another  account  prevalent  among  the  natives  of  Oahu,  states, 
that  a  number  of  persons  arrived  in  a  canoe  from  Tahiti,  and 
perceiving  the  Sandwich  Islands  were  fertile,  and  inhabited  only  by 
gods  or  spirits,  took  up  their  abode  on  one  of  them,  having  asked 
permission  of  the  gods,  and  presented  an  offering,  which  rendered 
them   propitious  to   their   settlement. 

HAWAIIANS   PROBABLY   CAME   FROM   TAHITI. 

Though  these  accounts  do  not  prove  that  the  Sandwich  Islanders 
came  originally  from  the  Georgian  Islands,  they  afford  a  strong 
presumption  in  favour  of  such  an  opinion. 

Tahiti  is  the  name  of  the  principal  island  in  the  group,  called 
by  Captain  Cook  the  Georgian  Islands.  It  is  the  Otaheite  of  Cook; 
the  Taiti  of  Bougainville;  and  the  Taheitee,  or  Tahitee,  of  Forster. 

In  the  language  of  the  Georgian  and  Society  Islands,  the  word 
tahiti  also  signifies  to  pull  up  or  take  out  of  the  ground,  as  herbs 
or  trees  are  taken  up  with  a  view  to  transplantation,  and  to  select 


325 

or  extract  passages  from  a  book  or  language,  to  be  translated  into 
another.    Hence  a  book  of  scripture  extracts  is  called,  words  tahitihea. 

HAWAIIAN    MEANING    OP    "TAHITI." 

In  the  language  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  we  do  not  know  that  the 
word  is  ever  used  in  the  latter  sense,  and  very  rarely  in  the  former. 


An  Idol  on  the  Wall  of  a  Hclau  at  Kallua.  which 
was  Converted  Into  a  Fort  by  Governor  Kuaklnl. 

It  is  generally  employed  to  denote  any  foreign  country,  and  seema 
equivalent  to  the  English  word  abroad,  as  applied  to  parte  beyond 
the  sea.  But  though  this  is  the  signification  of  the  word  among 
the  Sandwich  Islanders  al   the  presenl   time,  it   is  probable  timt    it 


326 

was  primarily  used  to  designate  the  whole  of  the  southern  group, 
or  the  principal  island  among  them;  and  it  may  lead  us  to  infer, 
either  that  Tahiti,  and  the  Georgian  and  Society  Islands,  were  all 
the  foreign  countries  the  Ifawaiians  were  acquainted  with,  or  that 
they  considered  the  Marquesian  Islands  contiguous,  and  politically 
connected  with  them,  and  that  these  being  the  only  foreign  countries 
originally  known  to  them,  they  have  applied  the  term  to  every 
other   part   with   which   they  have   subsequently   become   acquainted. 

DIFFERENCES   BETWEEN   INHABITANTS    OF    ISLANDS    OF    PACIFIC. 

It  is  an  opinion  generally  received,  that  the  various  tribes 
inhabiting  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  have  an  Asiatic,  and  probably 
a  Malayan  origin.  Applied  to  a  great  part  of  them,  this  opinion 
is  supported  by  a  variety  of  facts;  but  with  respect  to  those  groups 
with  which  we  are  acquainted,  additional  evidence  appears  necessary 
to  confirm  such  a  conclusion. 

The  natives  of  the  eastern  part  of  New  Holland,  and  the  inter- 
tropical islands  within  thirty  degrees  east,  including  New  Cale- 
donia, the  New  Hebrides,  and  the  Figiis,  appear  to  be  one  nation, 
and  in  all  probability  came  originally  from  the  Asiatic  islands,  to 
the  northward,  as  their  skin  is  black,  and  their  hair  woolly  or 
crisped,  like  the  inhabitants  of  the  mountainous  parts  of  several  of 
the   Asiatic   islands. 

But  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  islands  to  the  east  of  the  Figiis, 
including  the  Friendly  Islands  and  New  Zealand,  though  they  have 
many  characteristics  in  common  with  these,  have  a  number  essen- 
tially  distinct. 

The  natives  of  Chatham  Island  and  New  Zealand,  in  the  south; 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  the  north;  the  Friendly  Islands,  in  the 
west;  and  all  the  intermediate  islands,  as  far  as  Easter  Island, 
in  the  east,  are  one  people.  Their  mythology,  traditions,  manners 
and  customs,  language,  and  physical  appearance,  in  their  main 
features,  are,  so  far  as  we  have  had  an  opportunity  of  becoming 
acquainted  with  them,  identically  the  same,  yet  differing  in  many 
respects  from  those  of  the  islands  to  the  westward  of  Tongatabu. 

The  dress  of  the  Figiians,  &c,  is  not  the  same  as  that  of  the 
natives  of  New  Zealand,  Tahiti,  and  the  other  islands;  they  do  not 
appear  to  wear  the  cloak  or  the  tiputa. 

In  war  they  throw  long  spears  to  a  considerable  distance,  and 
use  the  bow  and  arrow,  which  the  others  only  employ  in  their 
amusements. 

The  difference  in  their  physical  character  is  greater;  the  dark 
complexion,  woolly  hair,  and  slender  make,  indicate  them  to  be  a 
different  people. 


327 

RESEMBLANCE    OF    PACIFIC    ISLANDERS    TO    AMERICAN    INDIANS. 

Various  points  of  resemblance  might  be  shewn  between  the  abori- 
gines of  America  and  the  natives  of  the  eastern  islands  of  the 
Pacific,  in  their  modes  of  war,  instruments,  gymnastic  games,  rafts 
or  canoes,  treatment  of  their  children,  dressing  their  hair,  feather 
head-dresses  of  the  chiefs,  girdles,  and  particularly  the  tiputa  of 
the  latter,  which,  in  shape  and  use,  exactly  resembles  the  poncho 
of  the  Peruvians,  but  it  would  lead  too  far  at  this  time. 

LONG    VOYAGES    IN    CANOES. 

"We  have  every  reason  to  believe  the  canoes  of  the  natives  were 
larger  formerly  than  they  are  now,  and  yet  we  have  known  them 
make  several  long  voyages,  being  sometimes  a  fortnight  or  three 
weeks  at  sea. 

In  the  year  1821,  a  large  canoe  arrived  at  Maurua  from  Rurutu, 
and  as  it  passed  to  the  north  of  Huahine,  must  have  sailed  500 
miles,  even  supposing  it  had  made  a  direct  course. 

Since  that  time,  a  boat  from  Tahiti  reached  one  of  the  islands 
near  Mangea,  almost  600  miles,  in  a  direct  course,  but  x)r°hably  not 
half  the  distance  actually  sailed  by  the  natives  in  the  boat. 

Canoes  are  frequently  arriving  at  Tahiti  from  some  of  the  eastern 
islands.  Two  came  recently  from  Hao,  an  island  of  which  the 
Tahitians  were  before  entirely  ignorant. 

INFLUENCE    OF    TRADE    WINDS    ON    EMIGRATION. 

Several  canoes  passing  among  the  islands,  have  been  blown  out 
to  sea,  and  have  never  returned;  and  the  native  teachers  sent  from 
the  Society  Islands  to  the  various  islands  lying  between  them  and 
the  Friendly  Islands,  have  met  among  them  several  of  their  country- 
men. These  voyages  have  always  been  in  a  westerly  direction. 
We  never  heard  of  one  to  the  eastward. 

The  trade-winds  blowing  within  the  tropics  from  the  eastward 
more  than  three-fourths  of  the  year,  and  their  canoes  not  being 
adapted  to  sail  close  to  the  wind,  render  it  difficult  for  the  natives 
of  the  leeward  islands  to  pass  to  windward.  They  never  attempt  it, 
except  when  the  wind  is  somewhat  westerly,  which  is  but  seldom, 
while  it  often  blows  steadily  from  the  east  for  weeks  together. 

These  circumstances  seem  to  favour  the  conjecture  that  the  in- 
habitants of  the  islands  west  of  Tongatabu  have  an  Asiatic  origin 
entirely;  but  that  the  natives  of  the  eastern  islands  may  be  a 
mixed    race,    who   have    emigrated    from    the    American    continent,    and 

from  the  Asiatic  islands;  that  the  proximity  of  the  Friendly  and 
Figii  islands  may  have  given  both  a  variety  of  WOT&B  and  usages  iu 
common,  while  the  people  to  which  the  former  belong  ha\e  re- 
mained  in   many   respects   distinct. 


328 

The  nation  inhabiting  the  eastern  parts  of  the  Pacific  has  spread 
itself  over  an  immense  tract  of  ocean,  extending  upwards  of  seventy 
degrees  north  and  south  from  New  Zealand  and  Chatham  Island  to 
the  Sandwich  group,  and  between  sixty  and  seventy  degrees  east 
and  west  from  Tongatabu  to  Easter  Island.  This  last  is  not  farther 
from  the  islands  adjacent  to  the  continent  than  some  of  these  groups 
are  from  any  other  inhabited  island. 

The  Sandwich  Islands  are  above  twenty  degrees  from  the  Mar- 
quesas, and  thirty-six  from  Tahiti,  yet  inhabited  by  the  same  race 
of  people. 

ADVANCE    OF   WRITING   AMONG   HAWAIIAN'S. 

The  day  after  the  conversation  took  place  which  led  to  the  above 
remarks,  the  pilot-boat  arrived  at  Kairua,  on  her  way  to  Maui.  On 
first  coming  to  anchor,  Kahiori,  the  master,  said  he  should  sail  in 
the  evening;  but  when  I  told  him  I  would  go  with  him  if  he  would 
wait  till  the  Sabbath  was  over,  he  cheerfully  agreed  to  do  so.  By 
him  the  governor  received  a  note  on  business,  written  by  Kamakau, 
the  interesting  chief  of  Kaavaroa,  which,  after  he  had  read  it,  he 
shewed  me,  saying,  he  admired  the  diligence  and  perseverance  of 
Kamakau,  who,  with  but  little  instruction,  had  learned  to  write  very 
well.  "This  letter  writing,"  added  the  governor,  "is  a  very  good 
thing." 

It  also  appears  to  them  a  most  surprising  art,  which,  till  they  saw 
what  had  been  acquired  by  the  natives  of  the  southern  islands,  they 
imagined  could  never  be  attained  by  persons  in  their  circumstances. 

Supposing  it  beyond  the  powers  of  man  to  invent  the  plan  of  com- 
municating words  by  marks  on  paper,  they  have  sometimes  asked 
us,  if,  in  the  first  instance,  the  knowledge  of  it  were  not  com- 
municated to  mankind  by  God  himself. 

HAWAIIAN   MARRIAGE    CUSTOMS. 

In  the  governor's  family  is  an  interesting  girl,  who  is  called  his 
daughter,  and  has  been  spoken  of  as  the  future  consort  of  the  young 
prince  Kauikeouli,  instead  of  Nahienaena  his  sister. 

Marriage  contracts  in  the  Sandwich  Islands  are  usually  concluded 
by  the  parents  or  relations  of  both  parties,  or  by  the  man  and  the 
parents   or   friends   of   the   woman. 

We  are  not  aware  that  the  parents  of  the  woman  receive  any 
thing  from  the  husband,  or  give  any  dowry  with  the  wife.  Their 
ceremonies  on  the  occasion  are  very  few,  and  chiefly  consist  in  the 
bridegroom's  casting  a  piece  of  tapa  or  native  cloth  over  the  bride, 
in  the  presence  of  her  parents  or  relations.  Feasting  is  general, 
and  the  friends  of  both  parties  contribute  towards  furnishing  the 
entertainment. 


329 

The  marriage  tie  is  loose,  and  the  husband  can  dismiss  his  wife 
on  any  occasion. 

MORE    MALES    THAN    FEMALES    DUE    TO    INFANTICIDE. 

The  number  of  males  is  much  greater  than  that  of  females  in 
all  the  islands,  in  consequence  of  the  girls  being  more  frequently 
destroyed  in  infancy,  as  less  useful  than  the  males  for  purposes  of 
war,  fishing,  &c.  "We  do  not  know  the  exact  proportion  here;  but 
in  the  Society  Islands,  in  all  our  early  schools,  the  proportion  of 
girls  to  boys  was  as  three  to  four,  or  four  to  five,  though  since  the 
abolition  of  infanticide  the  numbers  are  equal. 

Polygamy  is  allowed  among  all  ranks,  but  practised  only  by  the 
chiefs,  whose  means  enable  them  to  maintain  a  plurality  of  wives. 

Among  the  higher  ranks,  marriage  seems  to  be  conducted  on  prin- 
ciples of  political  expediency,  with  a  view  to  strengthen  alliances 
and  family  influence;  and  among  the  reigning  family,  brothers  and 
sisters  marry. 

INTERMARRIAGE    OF    RELATIVES. 

This  custom,  so  revolting  to  every  idea  of  moral  propriety,  that 
the  mind  is  shocked  at  the  thought  of  its  existence,  appears  to  have 
been  long  in  use;  and  very  recently  a  marriage  was  proposed  at 
Maui,  between  the  young  prince  and  princess,  both  children  of  the 
same  parents;  a  council  of  chiefs  was  held  on  the  subject,  and  all 
were  favourable. 

The  opinion  of  the  missionaries  there  was  asked.  The  chiefs 
assigned  as  a  reason,  that  being  the  highest  chiefs  in  the  islands, 
they  could  not  marry  any  others  who  were  their  equals,  and  ought 
not  to  form  alliances  with  inferiors,  as  it  was  desirable  that  the 
supreme  rank  they  held  should  descend  to  their  posterity. 

They  were  told  that  such  marriages  were  forbidden  in  the  word 
of  God,  were  held  in  abhorence  by  all  civilized  and  Christian  nations, 
and  had  seldom  been  known  to  leave  any  descendants  to  wear  the 
honour  or  sustain  the  rank  the  contracting  parties  desired  thus  to 
perpetuate. 

MARRIAGE   OF  RELATIVES   CHILDLESS. 

Several  of  the  chiefs  present  made  no  profession  of  Christianity, 
and  consequently  were  uninfluenced  by  some  of  the  remarks,  but  the 
concluding  observation  appeared  of  importance  to  them  all. 

They  said  they  thought  there  was  some  truth  in  it;  thai  the  late 
king  Tamehameha,  father  of  Rihoriho,  had  several  wives,  who  were 
his  near  relations,  and  even  his  daughter-in-law,  y.t  left  no  children, 
except  those  of  whom  Keopuoluni  was  the  mother,  and  who,  though  u 
sacred    chief    of    higher    rank    than    her    husband,    WM    the    grand- 


330 

daughter  of  a  princess  of  another  island,  and  distantly  connected 
with  his  family,  and  that  the  same  was  the  case  with  Rihoriho. 

The  marriage  was  postponed;  and  it  appears  the  opinion  of  the 
chiefs  in  general,  that  it  ought  not  to  take  place. 

The  individuals  themselves  are  entirely  passive  in  the  affair;  and 
we  view  it  as  a  happy  circumstance,  subversive  of  an  evil  custom, 
and  tending  to  produce  moral  feelings  highly  advantageous,  and 
illustrative  of  the  collateral  advantages  arising  from  the  influence 
of    Christian    missionaries. 

FOREIGNERS    IN    HAWAII    PRIOR    TO    CAPTAIN    COOK. 

An  interesting  conversation  took  place  this  evening,  relative  to 
the  first  visits  the  islanders  received  from  foreigners. 

The  possession  of  pieces  of  iron,  particularly  one  supposed  to  be 
the  point  of  a  broad  sword,  by  the  natives  of  Tauai,  (Atooi,)  when 
discovered  by  Captain  Cook,  induced  some  of  his  companions  to 
think  they  were  not  the  first  European  visitors  to  the  islands.  W« 
have  endeavoured  to  ascertain,  by  inquiring  of  the  most  intelligent 
of  the  natives,  whether  or  no  this  was  the  fact. 

They  have  three  accounts  of  foreigners  arriving  at  Hawaii  prior 
to  Captain  Cook.  The  first  was  the  priest,  Paao,  who  landed  at 
Kohala,  and  to  whom  the  priests  of  that  neighbourhood  traced  their 
genealogy  until  very  recently.  Of  this  priest  some  account  is  given 
in  a  preceding  chapter. 

WHITE    MEN    ON    HAWAII. 

The  second  account  states,  that  during  the  lifetime  of  Opiri,  the 
son,  of  Paao,  a  number  of  foreigners  (white  men)  arrived  at  Hawaii, 
landed  somewhere  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  island,  and  repaired 
to  the  mountains,  where  they  took  up  their  abode.  The  natives 
regarded  them  wTith  a  superstitious  curiosity  and  dread,  and  knew 
not  whether  to  consider  them  as  gods  or  men. 

Opiri  was  sent  for  by  the  king  of  that  part  of  the  island  where 
they  were  residing,  and  consulted  as  to  the  conduct  to  be  observed 
towards   them. 

According  to  his  advice,  a  large  present  of  provisions  was  cooked 
and  carried  to  them.  Opiri  led  the  procession,  accompanied  by 
several  men,  each  carrying  a  bamboo  cane,  with  a  piece  of  white 
native  cloth  tied  to  the  end  of  it. 

"When  the  strangers  saw  them  approaching  their  retreat,  they  came 
out  to  meet  them.  The  natives  placed  the  baked  pigs  and  potatoes, 
&c.  on  the  grass,  fixed  their  white  banners  in  the  ground,  and  then 
retreated  a  few  paces.  The  foreigners  approached.  Opiri  addressed 
them.  They  answered,  received  the  presents,  and  afterwards  con- 
versed with  the  people  through  the  medium  of  Opiri.     The  facility 


331 

with  which,  they  could  communicate  their  thoughts  by  means  of  Opiri, 
the  governor  said,  was  attributed  to  the  supposed  influence  of  Opiri 
with  his  gods. 

The  foreigners  they  imagined  were  supernatural  beings,  and  aa 
such  were  treated  with  every  possible  mark  of  respect. 

After  remaining  some  time  on  the  island,  they  returned  to  their 
own    country. 

No  account  is  preserved  of  the  kind  of  vessel  in  which  they 
arrived   or  departed. 

The  name  of  the  principal  person  among  them  was  Manahini; 
and  it  is  a  singular  fact,  that  in  the  Marquesian,  Society,  and 
Sandwich  Islands,  the  term  manahini  is  still  employed  to  designate 
a  stranger,  visitor,  or  guest. 

FOREIGNERS    AT    KEALAKEKUA. 

The  third  account  is  much  more  recent  and  precise,  though  the 
period   at  which  it  took  place  is  uncertain. 

It  states  that  a  number  of  years  after  the  departure  of  Mana- 
hini-ma,  (Manahini  and  his  party,)  in  the  reign  of  Kahoukapu, 
king  at  Kaavaroa,  seven  foreigners  arrived  at  Kearake'kua  bay, 
the  spot  where  Captain  Cook  subsequently  landed.  They  came  in  a 
painted  boat,  with  an  awning  or  canopy  over  the  stern,  but  without 
mast  or  sails.  They  were  all  dressed;  the  colour  of  their  clothes 
was  white  or  yellow,  and  one  of  them  wore  a  pahi,  long  knife,  the 
name  by  which  they  still  call  a  sword,  at  his  side,  and  had  a  feather 
in  his  hat.  The  natives  received  them  kindly.  They  married  native 
women,  were  made  chiefs,  proved  themselves  warriors,  and  ultimately 
became  very  powerful  in  the  island  of  Hawaii,  which,  it  is  said, 
was  for  some  time  governed  by  them. 

"EHUS,"     SUPPOSED    DESCENDANTS    OF    FOREIGNERS. 

There  are  in  the  Sandwich  Islands  a  number  of  persons  distin- 
guished by  a  lighter  colour  in  their  skin,  and  corresponding  brown 
curly  hair,  called  ehu,  who  are,  by  all  the  natives  of  the  islands, 
considered  as  the  descendants  of  these  foreigners,  who  acknowledge 
themselves  to  be  such,  and  esteem  their  origin  by  00  means  dis- 
honourable. 

OTHER  TRADITIONS  OF   FOREIGN   ARRIVALS, 

Another  party  is  said  to  have  afterwards  arrived  at  the  same 
place,  but  the  accounts  the  natives  give  of  their  landing  are  aot 
very  distinct;  and  we  feel  undecided  whether  there  were  two  distinct 
parties,  or  only  two  different  accounts  of  the  sum.'  event. 

In  addition  to  these,  they  have  a  tradition  of  some  white  man, 
called   Kea,    who   lived    wild    in    the   mountains,   occasionally    coming 


332 

down  to  the  streams,  or  towards  the  sea-shore,  in  an  evening,  much 
to  the  terror  of  the  natives,  particularly  the  females. 

We  have  heard  from  one  of  the  chiefs  of  Hawaii,  that  there  is  a 
tradition,  of  a  ship  having  touched  at  the  island  of  Maui  prior  to 
the  arrival  of  Captain  Cook;  but,  with  the  exception  of  this  chief, 
all  the  natives  we  have  conversed  with  on  the  subject,  and  we  have 
conversed  with  many,  declare  that  they  had  no  idea  of  a  ship 
before  Captain  Cook  was  seen  off  Tauai.  The  ship  they  called 
motu,  an  island,  probably  supposing  it  was  an  island,  with  all  its 
inhabitants. 

(Marvellous  reports  respecting  the  ships  and  people  were  circulated 
through  the  islands,  between  the  first  discovery  of  Tauai  and  the 
return  of  the  vessels  from  the  N.  W.  coast  of  America.  Aa  mo, 
(skin  of  lizard's  egg,)  a  native  of  Tauai,  who  was  on  board  one 
of  the  ships,  procured  a  piece  of  canvas,  about  a  yard  and  a  half 
long,  which  Tiha,  king  of  Tauai,  sent  as  a  present  to  Poriorani, 
king  of  Oahu.  He  gave  it  to  his  queen  Opuhani,  by  whom  it  was 
worn  on  the  most  conspicuous  part  of  her  dress  in  a  public  proces- 
sion, and  attracted  more  attention  than  any  thing  else.  The  piece 
of  cloth  was  called  Aa  mo,  after  the  man  who  had  the  honour  of 
bringing  it  from  the  ships. 

The  most  unaccountable  circumstance  connected  with  the  priest 
Paao,  is  his  arriving  alone,  though  he  might  be  the  only  survivor 
of  his  party.  If  such  a  person  ever  did  arrive,  we  should  think  he 
was  a  Eoman  Catholic  priest,  and  that  reported  gods  an  image  and 
a  crucifix. 

The  different  parties  that  subsequently  arrived  were  probably,  if 
any  inference  may  be  drawn  from  the  accounts  of  the  natives, 
survivors  of  the  crew  of  some  Spanish  ship  wrecked  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, perhaps  on  the  numerous  reefs  to  the  north-west;  or 
they  might  have  been  culprits  committed  by  their  countrymen  to 
the  mercy  of  the  waves. 

The  circumstance  of  the  first  party  leaving  the  island  in  the 
same  boat  in  which  they  arrived,  would  lead  us  to  suppose  they 
had  been  wrecked,  and  had  escaped  in  their  boat,  or  had  con- 
structed a  bark  out  of  the  wreck  of  their  ship,  as  has  subse- 
quently been  the  case  with  two  vessels  wrecked  in  the  vicinity  of 
these   islands. 

It  is  possible  that  one  or  other  of  the  islands  might  have  been 
seen  by  some  Spanish  ship  passing  between  Acapulco  and  Manila; 
but  it  is  not  probable  that  they  were  ever  visited  by  any  of  these 
ships. 

An  event  so  interesting  to  the  people  would  not  have  been  left  out 
of  their  traditions,  which  contain  many  things  much  less  important; 
and,  had  the  Spaniards  discovered  them,  however  jealous  they  might 


333 

be  of  such  a  discovery  becoming  known  to  other  nations,  that  jealousy 
would  not  have  prevented  their  availing  themselves  of  the  facilities 
which  the  islands  afforded  for  refitting  or  recruiting  their  vessels, 
which  must  frequently  have  been  most  desirable  during  the  period 
their  ships  were  accustomed  to  traverse  these  seas. 

These  accounts,  but  particularly  the  latter,  are  generally  known, 
and  have  been  related  by  different  persons  at  distant  places.  All 
agree  respecting  the  boat,  clothing,  sword,  &c.  of  the  party  who 
arrived  at  Kearake'kua. 

Among  others,  the  late  king  Rihoriho  gave  us  a  detailed  account 
of  their  landing,  &c.  only  a  short  time  before  he  embarked  for 
England.  We  feel  but  little  doubt  of  the  fact;  but  the  country 
whence  they  came,  the  place  whither  they  were  bound,  the  occasion 
of  their  visit,  and  a  variety  of  interesting  particulars  connected 
therewith,  will  probably  remain  undiscovered. 

PREACHING  ABOUT  NOAH  AND  THE  FLOOD. 

The  31st  was  the  Sabbath.  The  stillness  of  every  thing  around, 
the  decent  apparel  of  those  who  were  seen  passing  and  repassing, 
together  with  the  numbers  of  canoes  all  drawn  up  on  the  beach, 
under  the  shade  of  the  cocoa-nut  or  kou  trees,  combined  to  mark  the 
return  of  the  la  tabu,  or  sacred  day. 

As  unusual  number  attended  family  prayers  at  the  governor's 
house  in  the  morning;  and  at  half-past  ten  the  bell  was  rung  for 
public  worship.  About  800  people  assembled  under  the  ranai,  and 
I  preached  to  them  from  Heb.  xi.  7.  And  after  a  succinct  account 
of  the  deluge,  I  endeavoured  to  exhibit  the  advantages  of  faith, 
and  the  consequences  of  wickedness  and  unbelief,  as  illustrated  in 
the  salvation  of  Noah,  and  the  destruction  of  the  rest  of  mankind. 

HAWAIIAN  TRADITION   OP  THE   FLOOD. 

After  the  conclusion  of  the  service,  several  persons  present  re- 
quested me  to  remain  till  they  had  made  some  inquiries  respecting 
the  deluge,  Noah,  &c. 

They  said  they  were  informed  by  their  fathers,  that  all  the  land 
had  once  been  overflowed  by  the  sea,  except  a  small  peak  on  tho 
top  of  Mouna-Kea,  where  two  human  beings  were  preserved  from 
the  destruction  that  overtook  the  rest,  but  they  said  they  had  never 

before  heard  of  a  ship,  or  of  Noah,  having  always  1 o  accustomed 

to  call  it  the  kai  a  Kahinarii,  (sea  of  Kahinarii.)  After  conversing 
with  them  some  time,  I  returned  to  the  governor's. 

DISCUSSION   WITH   GOVERNOR   CONCERNING    THE    FLOOD. 

The  afternoon  was  principally  employed  i"  conversation  with  him 
on  the  flood,  and  the  repeopling  of  the  earth  i>y   the  descendants 

of  Noah. 


334 

The  governor  seemed  to  doubt  whether  it  were  possible  that  the 
Hawaiians  could  be  the  descendants  of  Noah;  but  said,  he  thought 
their  progenitors  must  have  been  created  on  the  islands. 

I  told  him  the  account  in  the  bible  had  every  evidence  that  could 
be  wished  to  support  it;  referred  him  to  his  own  traditions,  not  only 
of  Hawaii's  having  been  peopled  by  persons  who  came  in  canoes 
from  a  foreign  country,  but  of  their  having  in  their  turn  visited 
other  islands,  and  planted  colonies,  as  in  the  days  of  Kamapiikai; 
the  superiority  of  their  war  canoes  in  former  days;  the  resemblance 
in  manners,  customs,  traditions,  and  language,  between  themselves 
and  other  islanders  in  the  Pacific,  many  thousand  miles  distant. 

The  longevity  of  mankind  in  the  days  of  Noah,  also  surprised 
him.  Comparing  it  with  the  period  of  human  life  at  the  present 
time,  he  said,  "By  and  by  men  will  not  live  more  than  forty  years." 

DISCUSSION    WITH    KUAKINI    CONCERNING    THE    FLOOD. 

At  half-past  four  in  the  afternoon  the  bell  rang  again,  and  the 
people  collected  in  numbers  about  equal  to  those  who  attended  in  the 
morning.  I  preached  to  them  from  the  words,  "Be  not  weary  in 
well-doing,  for  in  due  season  ye  shall  reap,  if  ye  faint  not."  Their 
attention  was  encouraging. 

Numbers  thronged  the  governor 's  house  at  evening  worship.  The 
conversation  afterwards  turned  upon  the  identity  of  the  body  at  the 
resurrection,  and  the  reward  of  the  righteous  in  heaven.  The  governor 
asked  if  people  would  know  each  other  in  heaven;  and  when  answered 
in  the  affirmative,  said,  he  thought  Christian  relations  would  be 
very  happy  when  they  met  there. 

Some  who  were  present  asked,  "If  there  is  no  eating  and  drinking, 
or  wearing  of  clothes,  in  heaven,  wherein  does  its  goodness  consist?" 
This  was  a  natural  question  for  a  Hawaiian  to  ask,  who  never  had 
an  idea  of  happiness  except  in  the  gratification  of  his  natural  appe- 
tites and  feelings. 

In  answer  to  the  question,  they  were,  however,  informed,  that  the 
joys  of  heaven  were  intellectual  and  spiritual,  and  would  infinitely 
exceed,  both  in  their  nature  and  duration,  every  earthly  enjoyment. 

At  a  late  hour  I  took  leave  of  the  governor  and  his  family,  thank- 
ing him,  at  the  same  time,  for  the  hospitable  entertainment  we  had 
received,  and  the  great  facilities  he  had  afforded  for  accomplishing 
the  objects  of  our  visit. 

TRIP    FROM    KAILUA    TO    KAWAIHAE    AND    LAHAINA.     ' 

About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  being  awoke  by  the  shouts  of 
the  men  who  were  heaving  up  the  anchor  of  the  pilot-boat,  I  repaired 
on  board,  and  immediately  afterwards  we  sailed  with  a  gentle  breeze 
blowing  from  the  land.     The  wind  was  light  and  baffling,  and  it  was 


335 

noon  before  we  reached  Towaihae,  where  I  learned  with  disappoint- 
ment that  the  Nio  had  sailed  to  Oahu.  On  landing,  I  was  welcomed 
by  Mr.  Young,  with  whom  I  remained  till  the  pilot-boat  was  ready 
to  sail  for  Lahaina. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  the  2nd  of  September,  after  preaching  to 
the  people  of  the  place  at  Mr.  Young's  house,  I  went  again  on  board 
the  pilot-boat,  but  found  her  so  full  of  sandal  wood,  that  there  was 
not  room  for  any  person  below,  while  the  decks  were  crowded  with 
natives.  The  weather  was  unfavourable  for  getting  under  way  till 
nearly  daylight;  and  every  person  on  board  was  completely  drenched 
by  the  heavy  rain  that  fell  during  the  night. 

During  the  forenoon  of  the  3d,  we  drifted  slowly  to  the  north- 
ward, and  about  noon  took  in  800  dried  fish,  after  which  we  made 
sail  for  Maui.  The  weather  was  warm,  the  wind  light;  and  all  on 
board  being  obliged  to  keep  on  deck,  without  any  skreen  or  shade 
from  the  scorching  rays  of  a  vertical  sun,  the  situation  was  very 
uncomfortable.  At  three  p.  m.  we  took  the  channel  breeze,  which 
soon  wafted  us  across  to  the  S.  E.  part  of  Maui. 

As  the  shores  of  Hawaii  receded  from  my  view,  a  variety  of 
reflections  insensibly  arose  in  my  mind.  The  tour  which,  in  the 
society  of  my  companions,  I  had  made,  had  been  replete  with  in- 
terest. The  varied  and  sublime  phenomena  of  nature  had  elevated 
our  conceptions  of  "nature's  God;"  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
inhabitants  had  increased  our  interest  in  their  welfare;  while  their 
superstition,  moral  degradation,  ignorance,  and  vice,  had  called  forth 
our  sincerest  commiseration. 

We  had  made  known  the  nature  and  consequences  of  sin;  spoken 
of  the  love  of  God;  and  had  exhibited  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  as  the 
only  Saviour,  the  multitudes  who  had  never  before  heard  his  name, 
or  been  directed  to  worship  the  holy  and  living  God,  and  who  would 
probably  never  hear  these  truths  again.  We  cherish  the  hope,  that, 
under  the  divine  blessing,  lasting  good  will  result,  even  from  this 
transient  visit. 

Many  of  the  individuals  we  have  met  on  these  occasions,  we  shall 
in  all  probability  meet  no  more  till  the  morning  of  tin'  resurrei  fcion. 
May  we  meet  them  then  on  the  right  hand  of  the  Son  of  God! 

NATIVES    SWIM    ASHORE    AT    LAHAINA. 

At  sun-set  we  arrived  off  Molokai,  but  were  shortly  utter  becalmed. 
The  current,  however,  was  in  our  favour  through   the   night,  and   at 

daylight  on  the  4th  we  found  ourselves  off  tl asl  end  oi  the  district 

of  Lahaina,  and  about  a  mile  distant   from  the  shore. 

Many  of  the  natives  jumped  into  the  tea,  and  swam  to  the  beach, 
holding  their  clothes  above  their  heads  with  one  hand,  and  swim- 
ming with   the  other. 


336 

About  ten  a.  m.  a  canoe  came  alongside,  in  which  I  went  on  shore, 
where  I  was  welcomed  by  the  mission  family,  and  by  Mr.  Bingham, 
who  was  there  on  a  visit.  Soon  after  I  had  landed,  Karaimoku 
arrived  from  Oahu,  by  whom  I  learned  that  Mrs.  Ellis,  though  very 
ill,  was  better  than  she  had  been  at  some  periods  since  my  departure. 

CHIEFS   PRAY   FOR   RECOVERY    OF    KEOPUOLANI. 

I  waited  on  Keopuolani,  the  king's  mother,  whom  I  found  ill; 
Karaimoku,  Kaahumanu,  Kalakua,  and  several  other  chiefs,  were 
reclining  around  her,  weeping.  After  some  time,  Karaimoku  pro- 
posed that  they  should  unitedly  pray  for  her  recovery,  and  his 
proposal  was  acceded  to. 

At  four  p.  m.  a  corpse  was  brought  to  the  place  of  worship,  and, 
previously  to  its  being  interred,  I  gave  an  exhortation  to  a  multitude 
of    people. 

Towards  evening,  I  visited  the  governor  of  the  island,  and  also  the 
king,  who  was  then  at  Maui.  The  subsequent  voyage  of  the  latter  to 
Great  Britain,  accompanied  by  his  queen,  and  the  melancholy  event 
which  terminated  their  lives  while  in  London,  excited  considerable 
interest,  and  will  probably  be  considered  sufficient  apology  for  a 
short  account  of  them,  although  the  event  took  place  after  my  visit 
to  Maui  at  this  time. 

BIOGRAPHY   OF   KAMEHAMEHA   II. 

The  late  king  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  was  the  son  of  Tameha- 
meha,  former  king,  and  Keopuolani,  daughter  of  Kauikeouli  and 
Kakuiapoiwa.  He  was  born  in  the  eastern  part  of  Hawaii,  in  the 
year  1795  or  1796. 

The  name  by  which  he  was  generally  known  was  Rihoriho,  which 
was  only  a  contraction  of  Kalaninuirihoriho,  literally,  the  heavens 
great  black — from  Ka  lani,  the  heavens,  nui,  great,  and  rihoriho, 
applied  to  any  thing  burnt  to  blackness. 

On  public  occasions,  he  was  sometimes  called  Tamehameha,  after 
his  father,  though  names  are  not  always  hereditary.  Besides  these, 
he  had  a  variety  of  other  names,  the  most  common  of  which  was 
Iolani.  The  word  lani,  heaven  or  sky,  formed  a  component  part 
in  the  name  of  most  chiefs  of  distinction.  The  following  is  a  fac- 
simile of  the  official  signature  of  the  late  king. 

SIGNATURE    OF   KAMEHAMEHA    II. 


(^^^^e^^l^^^^^ 


337 

The  early  habits  of  Bihoriho  did  not  warrant  any  great  expecta- 
tions. His  natural  disposition  was  frank,  and  humane.  The  natives 
always  spoke  of  him  as  good-natured,  except  when  he  was  under  the 
influence  of  ardent  spirits;  his  manners  were  perfectly  free,  at  the 
same  time  dignified,  and  always  agreeable  to  those  who  were  about 
him. 

His  mind  was  naturally  inquisitive.  The  questions  he  usually 
presented  to  foreigners  were  by  no  means  trifling;  and  his  memory 
wa3  retentive. 

KAMEHAMEHA    II    A    WELL-IXFORMED    MAX. 

His  general  knowledge  of  the  world  was  much  greater  than  could 
have  been  expected.  I  have  heard  him  entertain  a  party  of  chiefs 
for  hours  together,  with  accounts  of  different  parts  of  the  earth, 
describing  the  extensive  lakes,  the  mountains,  and  mines  of  North 
and  South  America;  the  elephants  and  inhabitants  of  India;  the 
houses,  manufactures,  &c.  of  England,  with  no  small  accuracy,  con- 
sidering he  had  never  seen  them. 

He  had  a  great  thirst  for  knowledge,  and  was  diligent  in  his 
studies.  I  recollect  his  remarking  one  day,  when  he  opened  his 
writing  desk,  that  he  expected  more  advantage  from  that  desk  than 
from  a  fine  brig  belonging  to  him,  lying  at  anchor  opposite  the  house 
in  which  we  were  sitting. 

KAMEHAMEHA   II   A   STUDIOUS   MAN. 

Mr.  Bingham  and  myself  were  his  daily  teachers,  and  have  often 
been  surprised  at  his  unwearied  perseverance.  I  have  sat  beside 
him  at  his  desk  sometimes  from  nine  or  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
till  nearly  sun-set,  during  which  period  his  pen  or  his  book  has  not 
been  out  of  his  hand  more  than  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  while  he 
was  at  dinner. 

We  do  not  know  that  Christianity  exerted  any  decisive  influence 
on  his  heart.  He  was  willing  to  receive  the  missionaries  on  their 
first  arrival — availed  himself  of  their  knowledge  to  increase  his  own 
— and,  during  the  latter  years  of  his  life,  was  decidedly  favourable 
to  their  object;  declared  his  conviction  of  the  truth  of  Christianity; 
attended  public  worship  himself  on  the  Sabbath,  and  recommended 
the  same  to  his  people. 

ANALYSIS    OP   CHARACTER   OP    KAMEHAMEHA    II. 

His  moral  character  wras  not  marked  by  that  cruelty,  rapacity, 
and  insensibility  to  the  sufferings  of  the  people,  which  frequently 
distinguish  the  arbitrary  chiefs  of  uncivilized  nations. 

He  appears  in  general  to  have  been  kind;  and,  in  several  places  on 
our   tour,   the   mothers   shewed    us   their   children,    and    told    us,   that 

22 


338 

when  Kihoriho  passed  that  way,  he  had  kissed  them, — a  condescen- 
sion they  seemed  to  think  much  of,  and  which  they  will  probably 
remember  to  the  end  of  their  days. 

But  though  generous  in  his  disposition,  and  humane  in  his  conduct 
towards  his  subjects,  he  was  addicted  to  intoxication;  whether  from 
natural  inclination,  or  the  influence  and  example  of  others,  is  not 
now  to  be  determined;  frequently,  to  my  own  knowledge,  it  has  been 
entirely  from  the  latter. 

MOTIVES    FOR    VISITING    ENGLAND. 

Had  he  in  early  life  been  privileged  to  associate  with  individuals 
whose  conduct  and  principles  were  favourable  to  virtue  and  religion, 
there  is  every  reason  to  suppose  his  moral  character,  with  respect 
at  least  to  this  vice,  would  have  been  as  irreproachable  as  his  mental 
habits  were  commendable.    But,  alas  for  him!  it  was  quite  the  reverse. 

Though  not  distinguished  by  the  ardour  and  strength  of  character 
so  conspicuous  in  his  father,  he  possessed  both  decision  and  enter- 
prise: the  abolition  of  the  national  idolatry  was  a  striking  instance 
of  the  former;  and  his  voyage  to  England,  of  the  latter. 

The  motives  by  which  he  was  induced  to  undertake  a  voyage  so 
long  and  hazardous  were  highly  commendable.  They  were, — a  desire 
to  see,  for  himself,  countries  of  which  he  had  heard  such  various  and 
interesting  accounts — a  wish  to  have  a  personal  interview  with  his 
majesty  the  king  of  Great  Britain,  or  the  chief  members  of  the 
British  government,  for  the  purpose  of  confirming  the  cession  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  placing  himself  and  his  dominions  under 
British  protection. 

It  was  also  his  intention  to  make  himself  acquainted  with  tho 
tenor  and  forms  of  administering  justice  in  the  courts  of  law — the 
principles  of  commerce — and  other  subjects,  important  to  the  welfare 
of  the  islands. 

The  melancholy  death  of  the  king  and  queen,  which  took  place 
shortly  after  their  arrival  in  England,  not  only  prevented  the  full 
accomplishment  of  these  desirable  objects,  but  awakened  very  gen- 
erally a  degree  of  apprehension  that  the  people  of  the  islands,  un- 
acquainted with  the  true  circumstances  of  their  death,  would  be  led 
to  suppose  they  had  been  neglected,  unkindly  treated,  or  even 
poisoned  in  revenge  of  the  death  of  Captain  Cook,  and  that  the 
feelings  of  friendship  with  which  they  had  been  accustomed  to  regard 
the  people  of  England,  might  be  followed  by  enmity  or  distrust. 

TREATMENT    OF    KAMEHAMEHA   II   IN    ENGLAND. 

The  fears  of  those  who  felt  interested  in  the  welfare  of  the  Ha- 
waiians,  though  natural,  were  groundless.  The  British  government 
had  entertained  the  young  ruler  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  his  consort 


339 

and  attendants,  with  its  accustomed  hospitality;  and  when  they 
were  attacked  by  diseases  incident  to  a  northern  climate,  but  un- 
known in  their  native  islands,  every  attention  that  humanity  could 
suggest,  and  every  alleviation  that  the  first  medical  skill  in  London 
could   afford,  was  most   promptly   rendered. 

After  their  decease,  the  highest  respect  was  paid  to  their  remains, 
and,  in  honourable  regard  to  the  feelings  of  the  nation  who  had 
suffered  this  painful  bereavement,  a  British  frigate,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Lord  Byron,  was  appointed  to  convey  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands  the  bodies  of  the  king  and  queen,  that  their  sor- 
rowing people  might  have  the  mournful  satisfaction  of  depositing 
their  ashes  among  the  tombs  of  their  ancestors. 

By  the  return  of  a  highly  esteemed  missionary  friend,  Eev.  C.  S. 
Stewart,  I  have  learned  that  the  Blonde  reached  the  islands  in  the 
month  of  May,  1825:  the  natives  were  in  some  degree  prepared 
for  the  arrival,  by  the  intelligence  of  the  death  of  their  king  and 
queen,  which  they  had  received  about  two  months  before  from 
Valparaiso. 

RETURN    TO    HAWAII    OF    BODIES    OF    KING    AND    QUEEN. 

Shortly  after  the  vessel  having  the  remains  of  the  king  and  queen 
on  board  had  anchored  off  Oahu,  Boki,  the  principal  chief,  who  had 
accompanied  the  king  to  England,  attended  by  those  of  his  country- 
men who  had  also  returned,  proceeded  on  shore:  on  landing,  he  was 
met  by  his  elder  brother  Kairaimoku,  and  other  distinguished  chiefs, 
and  after  the  first  emotions  of  joy  at  meeting  again,  and  sorrow  on 
account  of  the  loss  all  had  sustained,  were  somewhat  abated,  the 
survivors  and  their  friends  walked  in  solemn  and  mournful  procession 
to  the  place  of  worship,  where  thanksgivings  were  presented  to  God, 
for  the  merciful  preservation  of  those  who  were  thus  privileged  to 
meet  again,  and  supplications  were  made  that  the  afflicting  dispensa- 
tion, which  all  so  deeply  felt,  might  exert  a  salutary  influence  ia 
the  minds  of  the  surviving  chiefs,  and  the  sorrowing  nation  at  large. 

Karaimoku,  the  late  prime  minister,  and  present  regent  of  the 
islands,  then  arose,  and  said,  "We  have  lost  our  king  and  queen, 
they  have  died  in  a  foreign  land;  we  shall  see  them  no  more;  it  is 
right  that  we  should  weep,  but  let  us  not  entertain  hard  thoughts 
of  God.  God  has  not  done  wrong.  The  evil  is  with  us,  let  us  bow 
under  his  hand;  let  all  amusement  cease;  let  our  daily  avocations  be 
suspended;  and  let  the  nation,  by  prayer,  and  a  cessation  from 
ordinary  pursuits,  humble  itself  before  God  fourteen  days." 

REPORT    BY    BOKI    OF    INTERVIEW    WITH     BRITISH    KING, 

Before  the  assembly  separated,  Boki  stood  up,  :ind,  in  a  brief  out- 
line  of   the   voyage,    narrated   the   most   prominent   events    thai    had 


340 

transpired  since  his  departure  from  the  islands,  calling  their  at- 
tention in  particular  to  the  suitable  and  important  advice  he  had 
received  from  his  majesty  the  king  of  Great  Britain,  in  an  audience 
with  which  he  was  graciously  favoured:  viz.  To  return  to  his  native 
country,  attend  to  general  and  religious  instruction  himself,  and 
endeavour  to  enlighten  and  reform  the  people. 

The  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  people  at  this  time,  the  in- 
creased satisfaction  they  had  for  some  time  felt  in  attending  every 
means  of  instruction  within  their  reach,  and  the  pleasing  change  in 
favour  of  religion,  which  many  had  experienced,  rendered  this 
recommendation,  so  congenial  to  their  feelings,  from  a  source  so 
distinguished,  unusually  acceptable. 

A  deep  and  favourable  impression  was  produced  on  all  present,  a 
new  impulse  was  given  to  the  means  already  employed  for  the  in- 
struction and  improvement  of  the  people,  from  which  most  advan- 
tageous results  have  already  appeared. 

They  were  also  made  acquainted  by  Boki  and  his  companions  with 
the  kind  reception,  generous  treatment,  and  marked  attentions, 
which  the  late  king  and  queen  and  their  suite  had  received  while  in 
England.  This  intelligence,  communicated  by  those  whose  testimony 
would  be  received  with  the  most  entire  credence,  would  at  once 
confirm  the  attachment  and  confidence  they  have  so  long  felt  towards 
England. 

No  disturbance  of  the  general  tranquillity,  nor  change  in  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  islands,  has  resulted  from  this  event. 

SUCCESSION   TO   THRONE   BY   KAMEHAMEHA   III. 

Bihoriho  left  a  younger  brother,  Kauikeouli,  about  ten  years  of  age, 
who  is  acknowledged  by  the  chiefs  as  his  successor.  A  regency  will 
govern  during  his  minority,  and  the  executive  authority  will  probably 
continue  to  be  exercised  by  Karaimoku,  and  the  other  chiefs  with 
whom  Bihoriho  left  it  when  he  embarked  for  England. 

ANALYSIS  OF  CHARACTER  OF  KAMEHAMARU,  RIHORIHO'S  QUEEN. 

The  queen,  who  accompanied  him,  and  who  died  at  the  same  time, 
has  left  a  fond  mother  and  an  affectionate  people  to  lament  her 
loss:  she  was  the  daughter  of  Tamehameha  and  Kalakua,  and  was 
born  about  the  year  1797  or  1798,  being  two  years  younger  than 
Bihoriho,  and  about  twenty-six  years  of  age  when  she  left  the 
islands. 

Like  all  the  persons  of  distinction,  she  had  many  names,  but  that 
by  which  she  was  generally  known,  was  Kamehamaru,  (shade  of 
Kameha,)  from  kameha,  a  contraction  of  her  father's  name,  and 
maru,  shade.  She  was  distinguished  for  good-nature,  and  was  much 
beloved  by  all  her  subjects. 


341 

The  poor  people,  when  unable  to  pay  their  rent,  or  under  the 
displeasure  of  the  king  and  chiefs,  or  embarrassed  on  any  other 
account,  frequently  repaired  to  her,  and  found  a  friend  whose  aid 
was  never  refused. 

She  was  also  kind  to  those  foreigners  who  might  be  distressed  in 
the  islands;  and  though  she  never  harboured  any,  or  countenanced 
their  absconding  from  their  ships,  she  has  often  fed  them  when 
hungry,  and  given  them  native  tapa  for  clothing. 

Kamehamaru  was  at  all  times  lively  and  agreeable  in  company; 
and  though  her  application  to  her  book  and  her  pen  was  equal  to 
that  of  the  king,  her  improvement  in  learning  was  more  gradual, 
and  her  general  knowledge  less  extensive. 

BECAME    STRONG    SUPPORTER    OF    CHRISTIANITY. 

She  excelled,  however,  in  the  management  of  his  domestic  affairs, 
which  were  conducted  by  her  with  great  judgment  and  address;  and 
though  formerly  accustomed  to  use  ardent  spirits,  from  the  time 
she  put  herself  under  Christian  instruction,  she  entirely  discon- 
tinued that,  and  every  other  practice  inconsistent  with  her  profession 
of  Christianity.  Her  attendance  on  the  duties  of  religion  was  main- 
tained with  commendable  regularity. 

Her  influence  contributed  very  materially  to  the  pleasing  change 
that  has  recently  taken  place,  in  connexion  with  the  labours  of  the 
missionaries  in  the  islands.  For  the  instruction  and  moral  improve- 
ment of  the  people,  she  manifested  no  ordinary  concern. 

Long  before  many  of  the  leading  chiefs  were  favourable  to  the 
instruction  of  the  people,  or  their  reception  of  Christianity,  Ka- 
mehamaru on  every  suitable  occasion  recommended  her  own  servants 
to  serve  Jehovah  the  living  God,  and  attend  to  every  means  of 
improvement  within   their  reach. 

It  was  truly  pleasing  to  observe,  so  soon  after  she  had  embraced 
Christianity  herself,  an  anxiety  to  induce  her  people  to  follow  her 
example. 

ESTABLISHED   A    SCHOOL   IN   HONOLULU. 

At  Honoruru  she  erected  a  school  in  which  upwards  of  forty 
children  and  young  persons,  principally  connected  with  her  estab- 
lishment, were  daily  taught  to  read  and  write,  and  instructed  in 
the  first  principles  of  religion,  by  a  native  teacher  whom  she  almost 
entirely    supported. 

In  this  school  she  took  a  lively  interest,  and  marked  the  progress 
of  the  scholars  with  evident  satisfaction;  in  order  to  encourage  the 
pupils,  she  frequently  visited  the  school  during  the  hours  of  in- 
struction,   accompanied    by    a    number    of    chief    women.      She    also 


342 

attended  the  public  examinations,  and  noticed  those  who  on  these 
occasions  excelled,  frequently  i^resenting  a  favourite  scholar  with  a 
slate,  a  copy-book,  pencil,  pen,  or  some  other  token  of  her  approbation. 

In  her  death  the  missionaries  have  lost  a  sincere  friend,  and  her 
subjects  a  queen,  who  always  delighted  to  alleviate  their  distresses 
and  promote  their  interests. 

Her  disposition  was  affectionate.  I  have  seen  her  and  the  king 
sitting  beside  the  couch  of  Keopuolani,  her  mother-in-law,  day  after 
day,  when  the  latter  has  been  ill;  and  on  these  occasions,  though 
there  might  be  several  servants  in  constant  attendance,  she  would 
allow  no  individual  but  her  husband  or  herself  to  hand  to  the  patient 
any  thing  she  might  want,  or  even  fan  the  flies  from  her  person. 

INCIDENTS   UPON   HER   DEPARTURE   FOR   ENGLAND. 

The  circumstances  attending  her  departure  from  the  islands  were 
peculiarly  affecting.  The  king  had  gone  on  board  the  L'Aigle;  the 
boat  was  waiting  to  convey  her  to  the  ship.  She  arose  from  the 
mat  on  which  she  had  been  reclining,  embraced  her  mother  and 
other  relations  most  affectionately,  and  passed  through  the  crowd 
towards  the  boat.  The  people  fell  down  on  their  knees  as  she  walked 
along  pressing  and  saluting  her  feet,  frequently  bathing  them  with 
tears  of  unfeigned  sorrow,  and  making  loud  wailings,  in  which  they 
were  joined  by  the  thousands  who  thronged  the   shore. 

On  reaching  the  water  side,  she  turned,  and  beckoned  to  the  people 
to  cease  their  cries.  As  soon  as  they  were  silent,  she  said,  "I  am 
going  to  a  distant  land,  and  perhaps  we  shall  not  meet  again.  Let 
us  pray  to  Jehovah,  that  he  may  preserve  us  on  the  water,  and  you 
on  the  shore." 

She  then  called  Auna,  a  native  teacher  from  the  Society  Islands, 
and  requested  him  to  pray.  He  did  so;  at  the  conclusion,  she  waved 
her  hand  to  the  people,  and  said,  "Aroha  nui  oukou:"  (Attachment 
great  to  you:)  she  then  stepped  into  the  boat,  evidently  much 
affected. 

The  multitude  followed  her,  not  only  to  the  beach,  but  into  the 
sea,  where  many,  wading  into  the  water,  stood  waving  their  hands, 
exhibiting  every  attitude  of  sorrow,  and  uttering  their  loud  u — e! 
u — e!   (alas!  alas!)  till  the  boat  had  pulled  far  out  to  sea. 

INCIDENTS    IN    ENGLAND. 

The  death  of  the  king  and  queen,  so  soon  after  their  arrival  in 
England,  was  an  event  in  many  respects  deeply  to  be  deplored. 

The  officers  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  were  unable  to 
gain  access  to  them  until  they  should  have  been  introduced  to  his 
majesty;  and  one  of  them,  I  believe  the  king,  died  on  the  very  day 
on  which  that  introduction  was  to  have  taken  place. 


343 

The  same  circumstance  also  prevented  many  Christian  friends,  who 
felt  interested  in  their  welfare,  from  that  intercourse  with  them 
which,  under  the  blessing  of  God,  might  have  been  expected  to  have 
strengthened  the  religious  impressions  they  had  received  from  the 
instructions  of  the  missionaries. 

In  their  visit  to  England  they  were  accompanied  by  a  suite,  which, 
though  much  less  numerous  than  that  which  invariably  attended 
their  movements  in  their  native  islands,  included  nevertheless  several 
individuals  of  rank  and  influence. 

THE   KING'S   SUITE   ON   VISIT  TO   ENGLAND. 

Among  the  principal  of  these  was  Boki,  the  governor  of  the  island 
of  Oahu,  and  Liliha  his  wife;  Kauruheimarama,  a  distant  relation 
of  the  king's;  Kakuanaoa  and  Kapihe,  two  of  his  favourite  com- 
panions; the  latter  of  whom  was  a  man  of  an  amiable  disposition, 
and,  considering  the  circumstances  under  which  he  had  been  brought 
up,  possessed  general  intelligence.  He  had  made  a  voyage  to  Canton, 
in  China,  for  the  purpose  of  acquiring  mercantile  information;  and 
from  the  circumstance  of  his  commanding  the  finest  vessel  belonging 
to  the  king,  a  brig  of  about  ninety  tons  burden,  called  the  Haaheo 
Hawaii,  (Pride  of  Hawaii,)  he  was  sometimes  called  the  Admiral, 
although  that  is  an  office  to  which  there  is  nothing  analogous  in  the 
present  maritime  system  of  the  Hawaiians. 

With  this  individual,  who  died  at  Valparaiso  on  his  return  to  the 
islands,  and  the  others  who  survived  the  death  of  the  king,  particu- 
larly with  Boki,  the  officers  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  had 
several  interviews,  and  received  the  strongest  assurances  of  their 
continued  patronage  and  support  of  the  Christian  mission  established 
in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Many  benevolent  individuals  had  also  an 
opportunity  of  testifying  the  deep  interest  they  felt  in  the  civil, 
moral,  and  religious  improvement  of  their  countrymen. 

While  they  were  at  Portsmouth,  the  late  venerable  Dr.  Bogue, 
tutor  of  the  Missionary  Seminary  at  Gosport,  accompanied  by  several 
Christian  friends,  visited  Boki  and  his  companions, — expressed  his 
hopes  that  no  unfavourable  results  would  follow  their  visit  to  Great 
Britain,  and  offered  up  his  prayers  that  God  would  preserve  them, 
and  bless  their  return  to  their  native  islands. 

BOKI'S     ATTITUDE     TOWARD     CHRISTIANITY. 

Boki,  together  with  his  elder  brother  Karaimoku,  had  invariably 
manifested  his  friendship  towards  the  missionaries,  by  countenancing 
every  effort  to  enlighten  the  people;  and,  before  he  left  the  islands 
to  accompany  his  sovereign,  we  had  reason  to  hope  that  his  own 
mind  had  received   favourable  impressions  of  that  system  of  religion 


344 

which  it  had  been  our  object  to  unfold;  but  we  were  not  without 
serious  apprehensions  that  his  visit  to  England  might  considerably 
weaken,  if  not  altogether  obliterate,  those  religious  impressions,  and 
originate   others  of   a  character  totally  different. 

In  this  respect,  however,  we  have  been  most  agreeably  disappointed. 
The  death  of  the  king  and  queen  appears  to  have  produced  a  salutary 
effect  on  his  mind;  and,  by  letters  recently  received  from  the  islands, 
I  have  been  gratified  to  learn,  that,  since  his  return,  he  has  taken 
a  most  decided  stand  in  favour  of  Christianity,  and  has  given  evi- 
dence of  its  influence  on  his  heart  so  uniform  and  satisfactory,  that 
he  has  been  admitted  a  member  of  the  Christian  church  in  Oahu,  and 
in  the  general  tenour  of  his  conduct  exhibits  to  his  countrymen  an 
example  worthy  of  their  imitation,  materially  contributing  to  the 
advancement  of  civilization,  education,  and  Christianity,  throughout 
the  islands. 

ATTITUDE   OF   CHIEFS   TOWARD   CHRISTIANITY. 

It  is  a  pleasing  fact,  in  connexion  with  the  present  circumstances 
of  the  nation,  that  not  only  Boki  and  his  brother,  the  present  regent, 
but  almost  every  chief  of  rank  and  influence  in  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
are  favourably  disposed  towards  the  instruction  of  the  natives,  and 
the  promulgation  of  the  gospel. 

A  deep  sense  of  the  kindness  of  the  late  Dr.  Bogue  and  his  friends, 
by  whom  they  were  visited  at  Portsmouth,  appears  to  have  re- 
mained on  the  minds  of  the  Hawaiian  chiefs  long  after  their  return 
to  their  native  land;  for  when  the  Rev.  C.  S.  Stewart,  an  American 
missionary,  was  about  to  leave  the  Sandwich  Islands  for  Great 
Britain,  Boki  gave  him  a  special  charge  to  present  his  grateful 
regards  to  the  Bishop  of  Portsmouth.  Mr.  S.  told  him  he  was  not 
aware  that  there  was  such  a  dignitary;  but  Boki  said,  Yes,  there 
was,  for  he  visited  him,  with  some  of  his  friends,  when  they  were 
on  the  point  of  sailing  from  England.  Those  who  were  acquainted 
with  the  venerable  form  and  apostolic  address  of  the  late  Dr.  Bogue, 
will  not  be  surprised  at  the  mistake  of  the  Sandwich  chief,  in  his 
supposing  he  must  be  the  Bishop  of  Portsmouth. 

A  LETTER  FROM  BOKI. 

Among  the  letters  I  was  favoured  to  receive  from  the  islands  by 
the  return  of  his  majesty's  ship  Blonde,  those  from  Boki  and  Liliha, 
or,  as  she  was  frequently  called  while  in  England,  Madam  Boki, 
were  of  a  character  so  interesting,  that  I  think  I  shall  be  pardoned 
for  inserting  one  of  them.  It  is  from  Boki,  the  chief  who  was  with 
the  king  in  London.     I  shall  translate  it  very  literally. 


345 

"Oahu.  The  first  of  the  Twins  is  the  month  (answering  to  our 
October,)   1825. 

"Affection  for  you,  Mr.  Ellis,  and  sympathy  with  you,  Mrs.  Ellis, 
in  your  illness.  This  is  my  entreaty:  Beturn  you  hither,  and  we 
shall  be  right.  Grief  was  ours  on  your  returning.  Heard  before 
this  have  you  of  the  death  of  the  king:  but  all  things  here  are  correct. 
We  are  serving  God:  we  are  making  ourselves  strong  in  His  word. 
Turned  have  the  chiefs  to  instruction:  their  desire  is  towards  God. 
I  speak  unto  them,  and  encourage  them  concerning  the  word  of  God, 
that  it  may  be  well  with  our  land. 

"Attachment  to  you  two,  attachment  to  the 
Ministers,  and  the  Missionaries  all. 

"CAPTAIN  BOKI." 

MR.  ELLIS  RETURNS  TO  HONOLULU. 

At  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  of  the  9th,  I  took  leave  of  my 
kind  friends  at  Lahaina,  and,  in  company  with  Messrs.  Bingham 
and  Richards,  went  on  board  the  Tamahorolani,  bound  to  Oahu.  It 
was,  however,  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  before  the  vessel  hove 
up  her  anchor.  We  were  becalmed  till  nine  in  the  evening,  when  a 
fresh  breeze  sprung  up;  we  passed  down  the  channel  between  Mo- 
rokai  and  Eanai;  and  between  nine  and  ten  in  the  forenoon  of  the 
10th,  arrived  off  the  harbour  of  Honoruru. 

On  landing,  I  was  grateful  to  meet  my  family  in  health  and  com- 
fort, except  Mrs.  Ellis,  who  was  confined  by  severe  indisposition.  I 
united  with  Messrs.  Thurston,  Bishop,  and  Goodrich,  who  had  pre- 
viously arrived,  in  grateful  acknowledgments  to  God  for  the  un- 
remitted care  and  distinguishing  goodness  which  we  had  enjoyed  in 
accomplishing  the  interesting  tour,  from  which,  under  circumstances 
of   no   small   mercy,   we   had    now   returned. 


APPENDIX. 


REMARKS  ON  THE  HAWAIIAN  LANGUAGE. 

HAWAIIAN    ROCK    CARVINGS. 

In  the  course  of  our  tour  around  Hawaii,  we  met  with  a  few  speci- 
mens of  what  may  perhaps  be  termed  the  first  efforts  of  an  uncivilized 
people  towards  the  construction  of  a  language  of  symbols. 

Along  the  southern  coast,  both  on  the  east  and  west  sides,  we 
frequently  saw  a  number  of  straight  lines,  semicircles,  or  concentric 
rings,  with  some  rude  imitations  of  the  human  figure,  cut  or  carved 
in  the  compact  rocks  of  lava.  They  did  not  appear  to  have  been  cut 
with  an  iron  instrument,  but  with  a  stone  hatchet,  or  a  stone  less 
frangible  than  the  rock  on  which  they  were  portrayed. 

On  inquiry,  we  found  that  they  had  been  made  by  former  travellers, 
from  a  motive  similar  to  that  which  induces  a  person  to  carve  his 
initials  on  a  stone  or  tree,  or  a  traveller  to  record  his  name  in  an 
album,  to  inform  his  successors  that  he  has  been  there. 

When  there  were  a  number  of  concentric  circles  with  a  dot  or  mark 
in  the  centre,  the  dot  signified  a  man,  and  the  number  of  rings  de- 
noted the  number  in  the  party  who  had  circumambulated  the  island. 

When  there  was  a  ring,  and  a  number  of  marks,  it  denoted  the 
same;  the  number  of  marks  shewing  of  how  many  the  party  consisted; 
and  the  ring,  that  they  had  travelled  completely  round  the  island;  but 
when  there  was  only  a  semicircle,  it  denoted  that  they  had  returned 
after  reaching  the  place  where  it  was  made. 

In  some  of  the  islands  we  have  seen  the  outline  of  a  fish  portrayed 
in  the  same  manner,  to  denote  that  one  of  that  species  or  size  had 
been  taken  near  the  spot;  sometimes  the  dimensions  of  an  exceed- 
ingly large  fruit,  &c.  are  marked  in  the  same  way. 

NO  WRITTEN  LANGUAGE  IN  HAWAII. 

With  this  slight  exception,  if  such  it  can  be  called,  the  natives 
of  the  Sandwich  and  other  islands  had  no  signs  for  sounds  or 
ideas,  nor  any  pictorial  representation  of  events.  Theirs  was  entirely 
an  oral  langiiage;  and,  whatever  view  we  take  of  it,  presents  the 
most  interesting  phenomenon  connected  with  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Pacific. 

A  grammatical  analysis  would  exceed  my  present  limits;  a  few 
brief  remarks,  however,  will  convey  some  idea  of  its  peculiarities; 
and  a  copious  grammar,  prepared  by  my  respected  colleagues,  the 
American  missionaries  in  those  islands,  and  myself,  may  perhaps  be 
published  at  no  distant  period. 


347 
THE  POLYNESIAN  LANGUAGE. 

The  language  of  the  Hawaiians  is  a  dialect  of  what  the  mission- 
aries in  the  South  Seas  have  called  the  Polynesian  language,  spoken 
in  all  the  islands  which  lie  to  the  east  of  the  Friendly  Islands,  in- 
cluding New  Zealand  and  Chatham  Island. 

The  extent  to  which  it  prevails,  the  degree  of  perfection  it  has 
attained,  the  slight  analogy  between  it  and  any  one  known  language, 
the  insulated  situation  and  the  uncivilized  character  of  the  people  by 
whom  it  is  spoken,  prove  that,  notwithstanding  the  rude  state  of 
their  society,  they  have  bestowed  no  small  attention  to  its  cultivation, 
and  lead  to  the  inference,  that  it  has  been  for  many  ages  a  distinct 
language;  while  the  obscurity  that  veils  its  origin,  as  well  as  that 
of  the  people  by  whom  it  is  used,  prevents  our  forming  any  satis- 
factory conclusion  as  to  the  source  whence  it  was  derived. 

COMPARISON  BETWEEN  HAWAIIAN  AND   MALAYAN. 

The  numerals  are  similar  to  those  of  the  Malays;  and  it  has  many 
words  in  common  with  that  language,  yet  the  construction  of  the 
words  and  the  rules  of  syntax  appear  different. 

In  the  specimen  of  languages  spoken  in  Sumatra,  given  by  Mr. 
Marsden  in  his  history  of  that  island,  some  words  appear  in  each, 
common  in  the  South  Seas;  and  it  is  difficult  to  determine  in  which 
they  preponderate. 

In  looking  over  the  Malayan  grammar  and  dictionary  by  the  same 
gentleman,  many  words  appear  similar  in  sound  and  signification; 
but  there  are  a  number  of  radical  words  common  to  all  the  Polynesian 
languages,  as  kanaka,  man,  ao,  light,  pouri,  darkness,  po,  night,  ra 
or  la,  sun,  marama,  moon,  maitai,  good,  ino,  bad,  ai,  to  eat,  and  moe, 
to  sleep,  which,  though  very  nearly  the  same  in  all  the  South  Sea 
languages,  appear  to  have  no  affinity  with  orang,  trang,  klam,  malam, 
mataari,  and  shems,  bulan,  baik,  buruk,  makan,  and  tidor,  words  of 
the  same  meaning  in  Malayan;  notwithstanding  this,  there  is  a 
striking  resemblance  in  others,  and  a  great  part  of  the  language  was 
doubtless  derived  from  the  same  source. 

COMPARISON  WITH  LANGUAGE  OP  MADAGASCAR. 

Since  my  return  to  England,  I  have  had  an  opportunity  of  con- 
versing with  the  Madagasse  youth  now  in  this  country  for  the  pur- 
poses of  education,  and  from  them,  as  well  as  a  vocabulary  which 
I  have  seen,  I  was  surprised  to  learn,  that  in  several  points  the 
aboriginal  languages  of  Madagascar  and  the  South  Sea  Islands  are 
strikingly  analogous,  if  not  identical,  though  the  islands  are  about 
10,000  geographical  miles   distant    from   each   other. 

With    the    aboriginal    languages    of    Smith    America    we    have    had 


348 

no  opportunity  of  comparing  it;  some  of  the  words  of  that  country, 
in  their  simplicity  of  construction  and  vowel  terminations,  as  Peru, 
Quito,  pronounced  kito,  Parana,  Oronoko,  &c.  appear  like  Polynesian 
words. 

COMPARISON    WITH    HEBREW. 

In  the  Sandwich  Islands,  as  well  as  the  Tahitian  language,  there 
are  a  number  of  words  that  appear  true  Hebrew  roots,  and  in  the 
conjugation  of  the  verbs  there  is  a  striking  similarity;  the  causative 
active  and  the  causative  passive  being  formed  by  a  prefix  and  suffix 
to  the  verb. 

In  many  respects  it  is  unique,  and  in  some  defective,  but  not  in 
that  degree  which  might  be  expected  from  the  limited  knowledge  of 
the  people. 

The  simple  construction  of  the  words,  the  predominancy  of  vowels, 
and  the  uniform  terminations,  are  its  great  peculiarities. 

The  syllables  are  in  general  composed  of  two  letters,  and  never 
more  than  three. 

There  are  no  sibilants  in  the  language,  nor  any  double  consonants. 

HAWAIIAN   SYSTEM  OF   PRONUNCIATION. 

Every  word  and  syllable  terminates  with  a  vowel;  and  the  natives 
cannot  pronounce  two  consonants  without  an  intervening  vowel; 
nor  a  word  terminating  with  a  consonant,  without  either  dropping 
the  final  letter,  or  adding  a  vowel;  hence  they  pronounce  Britain, 
Beritania,  boat,  boti;  while  there  are  many  words,  and  even  sentences, 
without  a  consonant,  as  e  i  ai  oe  ia  ia  ae  e  ao  ia,  literally,  "speak 
now  to  him  by  the  side  that  he  learn." 

The  frequent  use  of  the  k  renders  their  speech  more  masculine 
than  that  of  the  Tahitians,  in  which  the  t  predominates. 

The  sound  of  their  language  is  peculiarly  soft  and  harmonious; 
great  attention  is  also  paid  to  euphony,  on  account  of  which  the 
article  is  often  varied;  the  same  is  the  case  in  the  Tahitian,  in  which 
the  word  tavovovovo,  signifies  the  rolling  of  thunder. 

A  LANGUAGE  ADAPTED  TO  POETRY. 

Each  of  the  dialects  appears  adapted  for  poetry,  and  none  more 
so  than  the  Hawaiian,  in  which  the  1  frequently  occurs.  Whether 
the  smoothness  of  their  language  induced  the  natives  to  cultivate 
metrical  composition,  or  their  fondness  for  the  latter  has  occasioned 
the  multiplicity  of  vowels,  and  soft  flowing  arrangement  of  the  sen- 
tences, which  distinguish  their  language,  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture. 

In  native  poetry,  rhyming  terminations  are  neglected,  and  the 
chief  art  appears  to  consist  in  the  compilation  of  short  metrical 
sentences,  agreeing  in  accent  and  cadence  at  the  conclusion  of  each,  or 
at  the  end  of  a  certain  number  of  sentences. 


349 

Kude  as  their  native  poetry  is,  they  are  passionately  fond  of  it. 
When  they  first  began  to  learn  to  read  and  spell,  it  was  impossible 
for  them  to  repeat  a  column  of  spelling,  or  recite  a  lesson,  without 
chanting  or  singing  it. 

They  had  one  tune  for  the  monosyllables,  another  for  the  dissyl- 
lables, &c.  and  we  have  heard  three  or  four  members  of  a  family 
sitting  for  an  hour  together  in  an  evening,  and  reciting  their  school 
lessons  in  perfect  concord. 

HISTORY   PRESERVED  IN   SONGS. 

Most  of  the  traditions  of  remarkable  events  in  their  history  are 
preserved  in  songs  committed  to  memory,  by  persons  attached  to 
the  king  or  chiefs;  or  strolling  musicians.,  who  travel  through  the 
islands,  and  recite  them  on  occasions  of  public  festivity. 

The  late  king  had  one  of  these  bards  attached  from  infancy  to 
his  household,  who,  like  some  of  the  ancient  bards,  was  blind,  and 
who,  when  required,  would  recite  a  hura  (song)  on  any  particular 
event  relating  to  the  family  of  his  sovereign. 

The  office  was  hereditary;  the  songs  transmitted  from  father  to 
son;  and  whatever  defects  might  attach  to  their  performances,  con- 
sidered as  works  of  art,  they  were  not  wanting  in  effect;  being 
highly  figurative,  and  delivered  in  strains  of  plaintive  sadness,  or 
wild  enthusiasm,  they  produced  great  excitement  of  feeling. 

Sometimes  their  interest  was  local,  and  respected  some  particular 
family,  but  the  most  popular  were  the  national  songs. 

When  I  first  visited  the  Sandwich  Islands,  one  on  the  defeat  of 
Kekuaokalani,  the  rival  of  Kihoriho,  who  was  slain  in  the  battle  of 
Tuamoo,  was  in  the  mouth  of  almost  every  native  we  met;  another, 
nearly  as  popular,  was  a  panegyric  on  the  late  king,  composed  on  his 
accession  to  the  government;  and  soon  after  his  departure  for  Eng- 
land, several  bards  were  employed  in  celebrating  that  event. 

HOW   SONGS   WERE   FORMULATED. 

In  my  voyage  from  Hawaii,  three  or  four  females,  fellow-passen- 
gers, were  thus  employed  during  the  greater  part  of  the  passage, 
which  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  process.  They 
first  agreed  on  two  or  three  ideas,  arranged  them  in  a  kind  of  metrical 
sentence,  with  great  attention  to  the  accent  of  the  concluding  word, 
and  then  repeated  it  in  concert.  If  it  sounded  discordantly,  they 
altered  it;  if  not,  they  repeated  it  several  times,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded to  form  a  new  sentence. 

THE  USE  OF   "T"    AND    "K." 
The  k  in  most  of  the  islands   is   generally   used   in   common   inter- 
course, but  it  is  never  admitted  Lnto  their  poetical  compositions,  In 

which  the  t  is  universally  and  invariably  employed. 


350 

The  following  Verses,  extracted  from  a  collection  of  Hymns  in 
the  native  language,  containing  60  pages,  are  a  translation  of  lines 
on  the  "Sandwich  Mission,"  by  W.  B.  Tappan,  on  the  embarkation 
of  the  missionaries  from  New  Haven,  (America,)  in  1822.  The 
k  is  employed,  though  contrary  to  the  practice  of  the  natives.  The 
original  commences  with — 

"Wake,  isles  of  the  south,  your  redemption  is  near, 
No  longer  repose  in  the  borders  of  gloom." 

HAWAIIAN. 

I  na  moku  i  paa  i  ka  pouri  mau, 
Uhia   'ka  naau  po  wale  rakou, 
Ano  nei  e  puka  no  maila  ke  ao, 
Hoku  Bet'lehema,  ka  Hoku  ao  mau. 

Huia  ka  rere  a  pau  me  ka  kii, 
E  hooreia  ka  taumaha  a  pau; 
I  k'alana  maitai  rakou  e  ora'i, 
Tabu  ka  heiau  na  ke  Akua  mau. 

E  ake  rakou  i  nana  wave  ae, 
Ka  wehea  mai'ka  araura  maitai, 
A  o  ka  kukuna  'ka  Mesia  mau, 
"A  kali  na  moku  kona  kanawai." 

ORIGINAL. 

On  the  islands  that  sit  in  the  regions  of  night, 
The  lands  of  despair,  to  oblivion  a  prey, 
The  morning  will  open  with  healing  and  light, 
And  the  young  star  of  Bethlehem  will  ripen  to  day. 

The  altar  and  idol,  in  dust  overthrown, 

The  incense  forbade  that  was  hallow 'd  with  blood; 

The  priest  of  Melchisedec  there  shall  atone, 

And  the  shrines  of  Hawaii  be  sacred  to  God. 

The  heathen  will  hasten  to  welcome  the  time, 
The  day-spring  the  prophet  in  vision  foresaw, 
When  the  beams  of  Messiah  will    'lumine  each  clime, 
And  the  isles  of  the  ocean  shall  wait  for  his  law. 

A  COPIOUS  LANGUAGE. 

Notwithstanding  its  defects,  the  Hawaiian  has  its  excellencies. 
Ideas  are  frequently  conveyed  with  great  force  and  precision;  verbs 
not  only  express  the  action,  but  the  manner  of  it,  distinctly;  hence, 
to  send  a  message  would  be  orero,  to  send  a  messenger,  kono, 
to  send  a  parcel,  houna,  to  break  a  stick,  haki,  to  break  a  string, 
moku,  to  break  a  cup,  naha,  to  break  a  law,  hoomaloka,  &c. 

Considering  it  is  a  language  that  has  received  no  additions  from 


351 

the  intercourse  of  the  natives  with  other  countries,  and  is  devoid  of 
all  technical  terms  of  art  and  science,  it  is,  as  well  as  the  other 
dialects,  exceedingly  copious.  Some  idea  of  this  may  be  formed 
from  the  circumstance  of  there  being  in  the  Tahitian  upwards  of 
1400  words  commencing  with  the  letter  a. 

The  greatest  imperfections  we  have  discovered  occur  in  the  degrees 
of  the  adjectives,  and  the  deficiency  of  the  auxiliary  verb  to  be, 
which  is  implied,  but  not  expressed. 

The  natives  cannot  say,  I  am,  or  it  is,  yet  they  can  say  a  thing 
remains,  as,  ke  waiho  maira  ka  waa  i  raira,  (the  canoe  remains 
there;)  and  their  verbs  are  used  in  the  participial  form,  by  simply 
adding  the  termination  ana,  equivalent  to  ing,  in  English. 

Hence  in  asking  a  native,  What  he  is  doing?  the  question  would 
be,  "He  aha-ana  oe?"  (What-ing  you?)  The  answer  would  be,  He 
ai  ana  wau.  Eating  (am)  I.  The  He  denoting  the  present  tense 
preceding  the  question,  the  answer  corresponds;  but  if  he  wished  to 
say,  what  he  was  eating,  the  noun  would  be  placed  between  the  verb, 
and  its  participial  termination,  as  He  ai  poe  ana  wau,  literally,  Eat 
poe-ing  I. 

In  every  other  respect  their  language  appears  to  possess  all  the 
parts  of  speech,  and  some  in  greater  variety  and  perfection  than 
any  language   we   are   acquainted  with. 

HOW  WRITTEN  LANGUAGE  WAS  FORMULATED. 

In  reducing  the  language  to  a  written  form,  the  American  mission- 
aries adopted  the  Eoman  character,  as  the  English  missionaries  had 
done  before  in  the  southern  dialects. 

The  English  alphabet  possesses  a  redundancy  of  consonants,  and 
though  rather  deficient  in  vowels,  answers  tolerably  well  to  express 
all  the  native  sounds. 

The  Hawaiian  alphabet  consists  of  seventeen  letters:  five  vowels, 
a,  e,  i,  o,  u,  and  twelve  consonants,  b,  d,  h,  k,  1,  m,  n,  p,  r,  t,  v,  w,  to 
which  f,  g,  s,  and  z,  have  been  added,  for  the  purpose  of  preserving 
the  identity  of  foreign  words. 

The  consonants  are  sounded  as  in  English,  though  we  have  been 
obliged  to  give  them  different  names,  for  the  natives  could  not  say 
el  or  em,  but  invariably  pronounced  ela  and  ema;  it  being  therefore 
necessary  to  retain  the  final  vowel,  that  was  thought  sufficient,  and 
the  other  was  rejected. 

EUROPEAN   PRONUNCIATION    FOLLOWED. 

The  vowels  are  sounded  more  after  the  manner  of  the  continental 
languages  than  the  English;  A,  as  in  ah,  and  sometimes  as  it  in  far, 
but  never  as  a  in  fate;  E,  as  a  in  gale,  ape,  and  mate;  I,  as  ee  in 
green;   e  in  me,  or  i  in  machine. 


352 

The  short  sound  of  i  in  bit,  seldom  occurs,  and  the  long  sound  of 
i  in  wine  is  expressed  by  the  diphthong  ai;  O,  as  o  in  no  and  mote; 
U,  as  u  in  rude,  or  oo  in  moon. 

Several  of  the  consonants  are  interchangeable,  particularly  the  1 
and  r,  the  b  and  p,  t  and  k.  There  are  no  silent  letters.  I  have 
known  a  native,  acquainted  with  the  power  of  the  letters,  spell  a 
word,  when  it  has  been  correctly  pronounced,  though  he  had  never 
seen  it  written;  for  in  pronouncing  a  word,  it  is  necessary  to  pro- 
nounce every  letter  of  which  it  is  composed. 

THE   PARTS   OF   SPEECH. 

Articles. — They  have  two  articles,  definite  (he)  and  indefinite 
(ke  or  ka,)  answering  to  the  English  the  and  a  or  an.  The  articles 
precede  the  nouns  to  which  they  belong. 

Nouns. — The  nouns  undergo  no  inflection,  or  change  of  termina- 
tion, the  number,  case,  and  gender,  being  denoted  by  distinct  words 
or  particles  prefixed  or  added.  Hence  o,  which  is  only  the  sign  of 
the  nominative,  has  been  usually  placed  before  Tahiti  and  Hawaii, 
making  Otaheiti  and  Owhyhee,  though  the  o  is  no  part  of  the  word 
any  more  than  no  the  sign  of  the  possessive,  as  no  Hawaii,  of  Hawaii, 
and  i  the  sign  of  the  objective,  as  i  Hawaii,  to  Hawaii. 

Pronouns. — The  scheme  of  pronouns  is  copious  and  precise,  having 
not  only  a  singular,  dual,  and  plural  number,  but  a  double  dual  and 
plural;  the  first  including  the  speaker  and  spoken  to,  as  thou  and  I, 
and  ye  and  I;  the  second,  the  speaker  and  party  spoken  of,  as  he 
and  I,  and  they  and  I.  Each  of  these  combinations  is  clearly  ex- 
pressed by  a  distinct  pronoun. 

Adjectives. — The  adjective  follows  the  noun  to  which  it  belongs. 
There  are  several  degrees  of  comparison,  though  the  form  of  the 
adjective  undergoes  no  change;  the  degrees  are  expressed  by  distinct 
words.  There  is,  properly  speaking,  no  superlative;  it  is,  however, 
expressed  by  prefixing  the  definite  article,  as  k  kiekie,  ke  nui,  (the 
high,  the  great.) 

Verbs. — The  verbs  are  active,  passive,  and  neuter.  The  regular 
active  verb  in  the  Hawaiian  dialect  admits  of  four  conjugations,  as 
rohe,  to  hear,  hoo-rohe,  to  cause  to  hear,  rohe-ia,  heard,  and  hoo- 
rohe-ia,  to  cause  to  be  heard.  Some  of  the  verbs  admit  the  second 
and  fourth,  but  reject  the  third,  as  noho,  to  sit,  hoo-noho,  to  cause 
to  sit,  and  hoo-noho-ia,  to  cause  to  be  seated.  Others  again  allow  the 
third  and  fourth,  but  not  the  second,  as  pepehi,  to  beat,  pepehi-ia, 
beaten,  and  hoopepehi-ia,  to  cause  to  be  beaten.  The  verbs  usually 
precede  the  nouns  and  pronouns,  as  here  au,  go  I,  and  e  noho  marie 
oe,  sit  still  you,  instead  of,  I  go,  and  you  sit  still. 

The    adverbs,    prepositions,    conjunctions,    and    interjections,    are 


numerous;  but  a  description  of  them,  and  their  relative  situation  in 
the  construction  of  their  sentences,  would  take  up  too  much  room. 

NUMERALS  RESEMBLE  MALAYAN. 

Their  numerals  resemble  the  Malayan  more  than  any  other  part 
of  their  language. 

Eleven  would  be  either  umidiumu-ma-kahi,  ten  the  root  and  one, 
or  umi-akahi-keu,  ten  one  over;  this  would  be  continued  by  adding 
the  units  to  the  ten  till  twenty,  which  they  call  iva-karua,  forty 
they  call  kanahaa,  or  seventy-six  they  would  say  forty  twenty  ten 
and  six,  and  continue  counting  by  forties  till  400,  which  they  call  a 
rau,  then  they  add  till  4000,  which  they  call  a  mano,  40,000  they 
call  lehu,  and  400,000  a  kini;  beyond  this  we  do  not  know  that  they 
carry  their  calculations:  the  above  words  are  sometimes  doubled,  as 
manomano  kinikini;  they  are,  however,  only  used  thus  to  express  a 
large  but  indefinite  number.  Their  selection  of  the  number  four  in 
calculations  is  singular;  thus,  864,S95  would  be,  according  to  their 
method  of  reckoning,  two  kini,  or  400,000s,  one  lehu,  or  40,000,  six 
mano,  or  4000s,  two  rau,  or  400s,  two  kanaha,  or  40s,  one  umi,  or  ten 
and  five.  They  calculate  time  by  the  moon;  allow  twelve  to  a  year; 
have  a  distinct  name  for  every  moon,  and  every  night  of  the  moon, 
and  reckon  the  parts  of  a  month  by  the  number  of  nights,  as  pa 
akoru  ainei,  nights  three  ago,  instead  of  three  days  ago. 


The  following  specimen  of  native  composition  will  convey  some  idea 
of  their  idiom.  The  translation  is  servile;  and  with  this  I  shall  close 
these  remarks  on  their  language.  It  is  a  letter  written  by  the  late 
king  in  answer  to  one  I  sent,  acquainting  him  with  my  second  arrival 
in  the  isalnds,  on  the  4th  of  Feb.  1823. 

"Mr.  Ellis,  eo. 
Mr.  Ellis,   attend. 

Aroha  ino  oe,  me  ko  wahine,  me  na  kiiki  a  pan  a 
Attachment  great  (to)  you,  and  your  wife,  with  children  all  of  ye 
orua.  I  ola  oukou  ia  Jehova  ia  laua  o  tesu  rlraist. 
two.  Preserved  (have)  you  (been)  by  Jehovah  they  two  Jesus  Christ. 
Eia  kau  walii  olero  ia  oe,  -Mr.  Ellis,  apopo  a  tela  La  ku  :i  ahiahi, 
Thi-  (is)  my  word  to  you,  Mr.  Ellis,  to  morrow  or  the  day  after  when 
a  ku  hoi  mai.  I  ka  tabu  a  1<  ila  ua  ite  knua.  A  i 
g,  then  1  return.    On  the  ."-'i*1  :  i  (shall;  meel  we.    I 

23 


354 

makemake  oe  e  here  mai  ianei  maitai  no  hoi.     Ike  ware  oe  i  na'rii 
desire    you    to    come    here,    well    also.        Seen    indeed    (have)     you 
o    Tahiti.      Aroha    ware     na'rii     o    Bolabola. 
the  chiefs  of  Tahiti.     Attachment  only  to  the  chiefs  of  Borabora.* 

I    ola     oe    ia    Jehova    ia    Jesu     Kraist. 

Saved  (may)  you  (be)  by  Jehovah  by  Jesus  Christ. 

IOLANI. » » 
*  The  term  for  the  Society  Islands. 

(Several    pages    of    Hawaiian    words    and    their    English    equivalents    and    of 
declensions   of   Hawaiian  pronouns   are   omitted.) 

The  End 


INDEX 


Page 
Adams,   Jno.  ;    See    "Kuakini". 

Adultery,    Penalty    for 319 

Adze,    Favorite    tool 239 

Akea,      First      King     of      Hawaii, 

Founded  Kingdom  after  death..    275 
Alcoholic    liquor;    See    "Liquor". 
American   Mission,   Founding   of.. 

28,    37 

American  Missionaries;  See  "Mis- 
sionaries' '. 
Anaana;    See    "Sorcery". 
Animals;    See    "Cattle",    "Dogs", 
"Pigs",    "Sheep". 

Animals    described    32,    33 

Appeal    to    Chiefs    or    King,    Right 

of     320 

Arapai,    Chief  of  Waimanu 

277,    280,    283 

Army;    See    "Battle",    "War". 
Army,    Hawaiian,    no    professional   110 
Assembly,   Public,   When  held....    321 

Auae,    Chief,    Rank    of 313 

Awa,    Manufacture   and   use    of...    287 


Bamboo   Knives   used 

Bananas    147,    197, 

Barter,    Customs    of 

Basket,  Ieie  root  made  by  natives 
Battle;      See      "Keei",      "Puako- 
koki",       "Nuuanu",       "War", 
"Kekuaokalani",    "Keoua". 

Battle,    Ethics    most    brutal 

Idols    carried    in 

Method  of 110,  115, 

To    restore    idolatry 

Battles,    Fought    in    daytime 

Beheading;   See    "Decapitation". 
Bennett,   Geo.,   Visit  of  to  Hawaii, 

1822    

Berries  of  the  Islands 

34,    54,    55,    172, 

176,    192,    194,    195,    226,    302, 

Birds    of   Hawaii    described 

Bishop,    Artemas,    Trip    of    around 

Hawaii    4,    7, 

44,  47,  49,  138,  224,  310,  312, 
Bishop,  S.  E.,  Reminiscences  of.. 
Blatchely,    Dr.,    Trip   of   to    Mauna 

Kea    303, 

Boki,    Letter  to   Ellis   from... 344, 

Member  King's  Suite  on   trip 

to    England;    character    of; 

friendly  to  missionaries.  .  . 

343 

Rank   of    

Report   by,   of   interview   with 

King   of    England 

Boundaries,   Land,    How  marked.. 

Breadfruit    at    Waiakea 

Building;    See    "Houses". 

Burial   Caves,    Described 106, 

Burial      Customs,      Hawaiian      arid 

South    Pacific    269- 

Burning     the     skin,     a     badge     of 

mourning     

Butler,     Missionaries     entertained 

by   at    Lahaina 

Byron' a    Bay,    Description    of.  .  .  . 

Byron,    Lord,    Vi  it    of 7, 

Calabii      ■  ii  bed    

Candle  nut  tree;    Bee    "Knkui". 


260 
252 
319 
225 


119 
117 
117 
92 
115 


304 
33 


322 
3 


304 
345 


345 
311 

339 
262 
252 

270 

272 

187 

58 

■_•:.! 

281 


35 


189 
205 


Page 

Canoe,    Double    255,    280 

Hawaiian,     Construction     and 

operation  of.. 90,  159,  255,  256 
Kukui  at  Society  Islands.  .  .  .  282 
Landing  at   Kehena   described   212 

Long    voyages    in 327 

Canoe    trips    from    Hilo    to    Laupa- 

hoehoe    241,   257 

Kohala  to  Kawaihae 298 

Kona  to  Kau.  .138,   140,   141,   143 

Waipio   to   Waimanu 277 

Cattle,    Hunting   in    Hawaii 286 

In   Hawaii    33,    303,    304 

Vancouver  brought  to  Islands      35 
Census;     See     "Population"     Ha- 
waii,   1823     10 

Centipedes  in  Hawaii 33 

Cession   of   Islands   to   Great   Brit- 
ain     

Chamberlain,  Description  of  Kilau- 

ea  by    188, 

Chant,   Example   of   Hawaiian .... 

Chiefs;    See    "Customs". 

Chiefs,     Common    people    property 

of;    Power  over  people 

313,    315,    316,    319,    322 

Consulted  by   King 321 

Customs    upon    death    of.. 132-137 

Etiquette  between 313,  314 

Household,     Description    of.. 

233,    280 

Monopoly   of    trading   by....    311 
Rank  of  individuals  set  forth 

312,    313 

Rapacious  and  avaricious.  .  .  .    322 

Tabu  easy  upon 293 

Chiefs,  Names  of  principal;  See 
Boki,  Hoakau,  Hoapiri  (Hoa- 
pili).  Ihikaina,  Kaahumanu, 
Kahanaumaitai,  Kahavari,  Ka- 
hekii  (Kahekili),  Kaikioeva, 
Kakuiapoiwa,  Kalaimoku,  Ka- 
laiopu,  Kalakua.  Kamahoe,  Ka- 
makau,  Kamapiikai.  Kameha- 
maru  (Kamamaln),  Kaoreioku, 
Kapihe,  Kapiolani,  Kaumualii, 
Kauiuheimarama,  Keakealani, 
Keaveaheuru,  Keeaumoku,  Ke- 
kauruohe,  Kekuaokalani,  Ke- 
kuanaoa,  Keopuolani,  Keoua, 
Kinao,  Kiwalao,  Koreamoku, 
Kuakini,  Kumaraua,  Kumuoka- 
piki,  Liliha,  Maaro,  Manona, 
Miomioi,  Miru.  Naihe,  Nahiena- 
ena,  Pauahi,  Piia,  Poriorani, 
Bihoriho  I  Liholiho ) ,  Riroa  (Li- 
Ina  i,  Bono  (Lono)i  Taeo  (Ka- 
eo),  Taiana.  Tarainpu,  Teave- 
mauhiri,  Tt'jiorinniiii.  T  i  li  a. 
1'nii,  Wahinepio. 
Christianity,  Effect  of  upon  games 

and  gambling 149 

Effect  of  mi  Infanticide,  .2  16,  217 

Effect     "f     (Hi     mourning     cus- 
toms          1 H7 

Effect   of  mi   Datives ....  121,  122 

Effect   of  (Hi   war 121 

Kamehamaru   strung  inpport' 

er  of   -'Mi 

Natives    inclined    toward     .... 

152,    281,    232 


356 


Page 

Church.  Erection  of  at  Kailua... 

3,    300,    305 

City   of  Refuge,  at  Honaunau  and 

Waipio 109,   126-128,  273 

Origin    of    128 

Rules  relating  to 127 

Climate   of  Island  of  Hawaii 264 

Of   Honolulu    30 

Cloaks,   Feather,   described.  ..  116,   117 

Cocoanuts  in  Puna 203 

Coleridge,    Estimate    of    value    of 

this   book  by 5 

Common    People,     Pass    with     the 

land    316 

Property  of  chiefs 322 

Rank  of:   Labor  required   of; 

Status  of   313,   315 

Cook,  Capt.,  Burial  cave  of 97 

Character  of  reports  by 17 

Bodv,   Disposition  of 101-103 

Death,   Details  of 98-103 

Foreigners  in  Hawaii  prior  to 

330,    333 

Kamehameha  present  at  death 

of     35 

Lava   flow   at   time   of 217 

Natives    thought    him    a    god, 
regretted  death... 99,   i00,   101 

Reminiscences  of 52 

Treatment  of  by  natives.  ...  18 
Cooking,  Hawaiian  methods  of...  160 
Counting,  Hawaiian  method  of .  .  .  353 
Courts.    Constitution    of,    Right    of 

appeal    320,    321 

Crime,    Penalty   for 318,   319 

Hawaiian  and  So.  Pacific  com- 
pared      258-261 

Cultivation,  Extensive  in  Kona.  .  48 
Customs;  See  "Battle",  "Bur- 
ial", "Chiefs",  "Cooking", 
"Dress",  "Eating",  "Eti- 
quette", "Games",  "Hospital- 
ity", "Houses",  "Housewarm- 
ing1".  "Hula",  "Infanticide", 
"Labor",  "Marriage",  "Med- 
icine", "Mercy",  "Mourn- 
ing", "Pets",  "Sacrifices", 
"Seashore,  Living  at",  "Sing- 
ing", Social",  "Surgery", 
"Tabu",  Trading",    "War". 

Daggers    described    116 

Dancers,   Rank  of 313 

Dancing;    See    "Hula" 

Davis,   Isaac,   Capture  of 35 

Dead;     See     "Burial",     "Human 
Sacrifice' '. 

Death,    Life   after,    discussed  with 
natives    274,   275 

Death;  See  "Mourning  Customs". 

Penalty    for    adultery 319 

Penalty     for    breaking    tabu, 

How  administered  .  .  .  .290,  293 
Power  of  in   King  and  Chiefs   319 

Decapitation,     Penaltv     for     adul- 
tery        319 

Diamond  Hill 24 

Distilled  Liquor;    See    "Liquor". 

Districts,     Division     and     govern- 
ment   of    314 

Diviners,    Consulted   before    battle   117 


Page 
Divorce,   At  will   by   husband.  .  .  .    329 
Dixon    &    Portlock,    Visit    to    Ha- 
waii   by     34 

Dogs,   As  pets    309 

Principal   meat    260,   261 

Wild,    on    Mauna    Kea 304 

Douglas,    Visit   to   Hawaii   by.  .  .  .      34 
Dress;    See   "Cloaks",    "Maro". 

Dress  of  natives,  described 

74,   79,   83,   84,   116,   145,  146 

Drunkenness,  Encountered  on  trip, 

Increase  of 129,  196,  287,  288 

Effect  of  on  social  etiquette.  .    313 

Duel    described    118 

Dwellings;   See   "Houses". 

Eating,  Customs 45,   80,   95,  241 

Earthquake  at  Kaimu  in  1823.  .  .  .    208 

Ehus,  Descendants  of  foreigners 
prior   to   Cook    331 

Eleanor,  Attempted  capture  of 
ship     34 

Ellis,  Rev.  Wni.,  Biography  of,  In- 
cidents  relating   to 

.  .4,   7,  38-40,  56,   193,   334-336,  345 

Eloquence,    Native,    Example    of.  .    113 

England;   See   "Great  Britain". 

English   Mission,   Delegates    go   to 

Hawaii     38,    39 

Established  in   S.   Pacific...      36 

English  missionaries;  See  "Mis- 
sionaries,   English". 

Eruption;    See   "Volcano". 

Etiquette  of  chiefs 79,   313,   314 

Fair  American,  Capture  and  de- 
struction  of    35 

Farmers.   Rank  of  in  society 313 

Feast,    Hawaiian,    described.  .  .260-262 
Feudal  system,  Government  resem- 
bled        314 

Fighting;  See  "War". 

Firearms,    Effect    of    in    Hawaii..    121 

Fire-making  by  friction    225 

Fish,  Dried,  an  article  of  com- 
merce         203 

Fish   not   abundant    ._.      33 

Fish   pond,   Kamehameha's   at   Ki- 

holo    306 

Fisheries  and  fishing  methods  of 
Hawaii  and  South  Seas  com- 
pared     297,    298 

Fishing  by  torchlight,  described.  .    282 
Flag,    Hawaiian,    Origin    and    pic- 
ture  of    311 

Flood,  Hawaiian  tradition  of  the.  .    333 

Foreigners   a   curiosity 146 

Foreigners,  Distilled  liquor  intro- 
duced   by    287 

In  Hawaii  prior  to  Cook.  .  .  . 

330-333 

Fort     at     Honolulu,     Origin     and 

status    of    28 

Fort    at    Kailua 76,    77,   323 

Forts,  Construction  and  defense  of 

114,    115 

Friendly   Islands,    English  mission 

at     36 

Fruit;    See    "Berries". 

Fruits   of  the   Islands 

33,    34,    48,    123,    144,    252 

Funeral;    See    "Burial". 


357 


Page 
Furniture     of    chief's     house     de- 
scribed    45,  280 

Gambling,      Chief      incentive      for 

games 149 

Methods    described,    Bad    ef- 
fects   of    149 

Prevalence  of 62 

Quarrels  resulting  from    ....  149 

Games,  Effect  of  Christianity  upon  149 
Gambling  chief  incentive  of..    149 
Hawaiian;       See       "Horua", 
"Konane'*,      "  JIaika", 
"Pahe",       "Puhenehene", 
'  'Water  Games' '. 
Tournaments  of,  held 148 

Geese,   Wild,   on  Hawaii 20,   180 

Georgian  Islands,   Tahiti  one  of.  . 

69,   324 

Goats  in  Hawaii 33,  304 

Gods;     See     "Idols",     "Religious 
Beliefs",    "Sacrifices". 

Gods,   Described  and   named: 

Akea,    a    god — King    of    Ha- 
waii     274,  275,   324 

Haumea    324 

Hiatahoiteporiapele      185 

Hiatanoholani    185 

Hiataopio    185 

Hiatareiia    185 

Hiatataaravamata 185 

Hiatatabuenaena    185 

Hiatawawahilani     185 

Kalaipahoa,    poison    god.... 68,    69 
Kamapuaa;   see   "Kamapuaa". 

Kamohoarii    184 

Kaneapua,   a  Lanai  god 67 

Kanenuiakea    88 

Kaneruruhonua     88 

Kekuaaimanu     88 

Kuahiro    204,   272 

Kukailimoku     72 

Makorewawahiwaa 185 

Miru,     a    god    and    king,    the 
Hawaiian   Pluto..  274,   275,   276 

Mooarii,   a   Molokai   god 67 

Kohoarii    154 

Pele;   See   "Pele". 

Raeapua,    a   Lanai  god 67 

Keoroewa,   a  Maui   god 66 

Rono,    Cook    thought    to    be. 
Traditions  of.... 100,   101,    217 

Roramakaeha    88 

Tairi,    a    flying   god 90,    217 

Tanaroa     217,     324 

Tane    297,    324 

Tanehetiri     184 

Teoahitamataua     185 

Teuaatepo      184 

Topohaitahiora    184 

Tu     217 

Uri,    god   of   sorcerers '_i  ~ 

Gods,    Manufacture    of 158 

Gods,    Of   Lanai   and   Molokai.  .  .  .      07 

(If  Maui   ■;''• 

Of  the  Sea    67 

Savage   character   of.... Ill,  272 

Shark      M 

Volcano,    .'■                      as  of . .  1 87 

War  decided   upon   bj i  i  i 


Page 
Goodrich.    Rev*    Josepn,    Canoeing 

through    the    surf    by 138 

Description  of  Kilauea  by.  . . 

183,     189 

Trip   of   around   Hawaii 

...  .4,    7,    44,    48,    51,    312,    322 
Trip  of  to  top  of  Manna   Kea 

301,   303,   304 

Government;    See    "Law". 
Government,    Hawaiian    system   of 

described    110,  312,   314-322 

Good,   Little   progress   in ...  . 

321,    322 

Grammar:     See     "Hawaiian     Lan- 
guage,  Rules  of  Grammar  of". 
Great   Britain,    Cession   of   Hawaii 

to     35 

Visit  of  Kamehameha  II  to.  . 

7.     338-340 

Green  Lake,   Puna,  Description  of 

218,    219 

Guns;   Use  of  in  Hawaii 121 

Haa,    Chief,    Rank   of 313 

Hades,    Hawaiian    and   Society    Is- 
lands  tradition   of.... 101,   275,   276 
Hair,    Cutting    of,    on    death    of    a 

chief    132,    133 

Halawa,     Experiences    at 286 

Kamehameha's    original    pat- 
rimony         288 

Hale    o   Keawe   described,    picture 

of    124.   126 

Hale    o    Riroa,    Burial     place     of 

Riroa   at  Waipio    273 

Hamakua,    Described     ..261.    262, 
264,     265-269,     272-274,     285,     301 

Status  of  natives  of 264 

Harbor  dues  belong  to  King,   Ori- 
gin   of 316,    317 

Harwood,   Mr.,  Accompanied  dele- 
gation  around   Hawaii 44,   255 

Haupokane,  A  foreign  land  visited 

by    natives    297 

Hawaii,    Climate   of   Island   of....    264 

Compared   with  Tahiti 19 

Description   of  Island  of....      19 
Exploration   of.  .  .  .10,    40,    I  I.    B6 

Importance   of    21 

Interior    of    unknown 20 

Journal    of    trip    around,    Au- 
thors of    4,   8 

of     16 

Pronunciation   of    42 

Hawaiian  Character;  Bee  "Hospi- 
tality ".         "  Licentiousness  ' '. 
•  'Drunkennei  b",   '  '<  Gambling' '. 
Hawaiian    Ohiefs;     See     "Chiefs, 

Names  of  Principal' '. 
Hawaiian  Chiefs,  Physical  '1' 

tiou    <>f    32 

Hawaiian       Customs;      See      "Cus- 

Hawaiian    D  "Dresa". 

Hawaiian     etiquette;     See     "Eti- 
quette1 '. 

Hnv.  .  See  "Gode". 

Hawaiian  government ;  See  ' 
ernmenl ' ' . 

Hawaiian   hospitality;    See   "Hos- 
pitality" 


358 


Page 
Hawaiian  Houses;  See  "Houses". 
Hawaiian       Islands,        Commercial 

importance    of    34 

Description    of    19 

(See   Each   Island   by  name.) 

Map  of    33 

Social   conditions  of    18 

Hawaiian     language;     See     "Lan- 
guage". 
Hawaiian     Language,     a     copious 

one     350 

A  poem   in 350 

Compared    with    others..  347,    348 

First  printing  in    6 

Numerals   named    353 

Pronunciation   of...  343,   349,    351 

Remarks    on     346-354 

Rules  of  grammar  of 352 

Social   conditions,   Reports  by 

Cook    superficial    18 

Specimen    of   idiom   of 353 

Spelling  explained 41,  42,  43 

Traditions   same   as  Tahitian.      69 
Warfare,     Methods     of;     See 

'  'Warfare' '. 
Weapons;  See  "Weapons". 
Women;    See    "Women,    Ha- 
waiian". 
Written,  How  formulated.  .6,   351 
Hawaiians:    See    "Natives". 

Cleanliness    of    45 

Origin    of....  323,    324,    326,    327 
Hebrew    language    compared    with 

Hawaiian    348 

Heiau,      Kamehameha's      at      Ko- 

hala     290 

Heiau   at   Kawaihae   described ..  71,   73 

Kanekaheilani     89 

Haleotairi    89 

Hina    88 

Kauaikahaloa    88 

Kuura     88 

Kilauea      192 

Mairikini     73 

Ukanipo    97 

Waipio     272 

Heiau    of    Ahuena.    at    Kailua,    de- 
scribed          323 

Honaunau    described     124 

Karepa    in    Puna    213 

Oararauo  at  Kilauea 192 

Pele     in     Hamakua 262 

Wahaula  at  Pulana,  described   203 

Heiaus,    Kona,    described    

88,    89,   91,    97,    124 

Helmets,   described    116 

Herbs,  Medical  treatment  with.  .  . 

249,    250,    251 

Hevaheva,     high     priest,      advised 
abolition    of    idolatry    and    tabu 

95,    96 

Appearance   of   in    battle....    118 

Hieroglyphs     346 

Hilea,    Experiences    at 155 

Hilo,    description  of   district 

227,    257,    263 

Market    fair    at 242 

Ilihiu.    Village    of 297 

History    preserved    in    song 349 

Hoakau,    A    Hawaiian    Nero 274 

Hoapiri,    Chief     157 


Page 
Hokukano,     Spring    of    water     at, 

Experiences   at    97,    155 

Ilolua,  Game  of  between  Pele  and 

Kahavali    220-223 

Game    of    described 219-220 

Holualoa,    Kona,    Experiences   at..      88 
Honaunau;   See  "City  of  Refuge". 

Described    12,   123,   124 

Drunkenness    at     129 

Experiences    at     129 

Picture    of    124 

Population   of    123,    130 

Volcanic    curiosity    at.  ...  130-132 
Honokane   Valley,    Experiences    at  285 

Honokea   Valley   passed 285 

Honolulu,     Described,     population, 

shipping    27 

Fort,   Origin   and   status  of.  .      28 

Geological    description    of....       24 

Weather  record  at,  1821-22.  .      30 

Honomalino,    Experiences   at    ....    138 

Honoruru,    village    in    Puna 223 

Honuaino,  Kona,  Experiences  at..      96 

Honuapo,    Description    of 12 

Primitive   conditions   at 151 

Honuaula,    Lava   flow    at 218 

Hookupu,    gift    custom 317 

Hopu,  Thos.,   instructor  at   Kailua 

48,    305 

Horses   in   Hawaii 33 

Horua    (sledding)    described.  .219,   220 
Hospitality,    Customs    described.  .    286 
Hawaii  and  South  Sea  island- 
ers compared 259,  260 

at  Halawa    286,  287 

at    Honokane    285 

at    Kamaili     213 

at  Keei 106,  107 

at    Waimanu 277.    283 

at  Waipio    266,    276 

and   lack  of  at   Kealakomo.. 

197,    198,    201,    206 

Lack    of    at    Honaunau    and 

Keokea    123,   129 

Houses,       Ceremonies       connected 

with    building     240 

Hawaiian,  Character,  con- 
struction, durability,  di- 
mensions,   furnishings   of.  . 

236, 

238,    239,    240,    280,    281,    288 

Housewarming    customs    317 

Hualalai,     Ascent     of,     Active     in 
1823,   Active   in   1800.... 47,   53,   54 

Height   of   measured 80 

Land     formed     by     last     lava 

flow    from     308 

Hula.   Described 59,   78,   79,   80,    81 

Picture   of    75 

Human         Sacrifices,         Described,     » 
Method    of    securing    and    offer- 
ing     71, 

73,     111,    112,     119,     185,    203,    323 

By    King   Umi 272 

Humuula,    Village,    Experiences   at   258 
Husband;    See    "Marriage",    "Di- 
vorce' '. 


359 


Page 
Idolatry,   Abolition  of.  .  .  .6,  37,   94,  95 
Abolition    did    not    affect    su- 
perstition            11 

Battle    to    restore    in    1819..      92 
Native  sentiment  re   abolition 

of 150,  152,  210 

Idol    at    Waipio 273 

Idols,  Carried  in  battle,  Functions 

of     117 

Existing    in    1823 89 

Native    beliefs    concerning.  .  .    263 

Picture    of    323 

Sundry    Hawaiian,     described 
66-69,    118,    124.    126,    306,   325 
Ihikaina,    Chiefess   of   Honokane..    285 
Implements;   See   ''Tools''. 
Incantations;    See    "Sorcerers". 
Indians,     Resemblance    of    Pacific 

[slanders  to    327 

Infanticide,   Effect   of  Christianity 

on     247 

In  Society  Islands.  .244,  246,  329 
Kamehameha's  judgment  con- 
cerning        243 

Prevalence,      evidence      and 
causes  of.  .10,  32,  243-248,   329 

Prohibited    by    Kuakini 247 

Specific    instance    of 243 

Inheritance    of    land.    Law    of .  .  .  .    318 
Inter-island;    See    "Shipping". 

Travel  described    

56,    65,    305,    334-336 

Inter-marriage;   See  "Marriage". 
Interment;    See    "Burial". 
Intoxicating  liquor;   See   "Liquor". 
Iolani,     one     of    Kamehameha     2's 

names    354 

Iphiginia,    Attempted    capture    of 

ship      34 

Iron,  Natives  possessed  prior  to 
Cook's  arrival    330 

Javelins,    described    110,   116 

Journal  of  trip  around  Hawaii, 
Author  of  American  edition  of 
4,    6,    8 

(If  a  word  is  not   found  under 
"K",   look  under   "T".) 
"K"    and    "T",    Alternative   use 

of     349 

Kaahumanu,   Rank  of 313 

Prayer    by     336 

Repudiates   priestess   of   Pele   199 

Kaahua,   Village  of 265 

Kaalaala,   District  of,   described..    161 

Kaawaloa,    Description    of 49 

Experiences  at    97.    104 

Burial  cave  of  Capt.  Cook  at     97 

Kahaluu,    Experiences   at 90 

Kahanaumaitai,    Chief,    Rank   of.  .    313 
Kahnvari,     Game     of     holua     with 

Pele    220-228 

Kahekii  (Kahekili  O,  king  of  Maui 

at    time   of   Cook 818 

Kahilis   described    276 

Kahoolawe,    Description    of 22 

Kahuku,  Kan.   Bluff,  described  148 
ana,  Attempts  of  to  cure  dis- 
ease         248 

Kahuwai,   village    228 

Kai  b  kfl  In  OS  I  ii,       Hawaiian       for 

the  flood    


Kaiana,    Chief;    See    "Taiana". 
Kaikioeva,  Chief,  a  surfing  expert  279 

Rank   of    313 

Kailua,    Churches    at 9,    300.    305 

Description    of    45-47 

Fort  at,  described 76 

Life  at,    ili  si  ribed 44,   50 

Picture    of    77 

Population   of    12,    53 

Kaimu,      Description,      Population 

of 12,    209,    210 

Experiences  at 204 

Great    earthquake    at 208 

Kairi,   Idol  of,   described 118 

Kakuiapoiwa,     a     chief 336 

Kalahiki,    Description    of    country 

south    of     138 

Experiences    at    132-137 

Kalakua,     one    of    Kamehameha's 

queens    56 

Kalaloa,    Village    of     301 

Kalaimoku,     alias     Wm.     Pitt,      a 
chief,    a    surfing   expert ....  279,    312 

Acting  as  a  judge 320 

Discussion    of    Cook's    death 

by    100 

Dwelling  of,   described 240 

Favored   missionaries    38 

Independence    of    134 

Opposed     Kamehameha,     now 

Prime    Minister     28,    109 

Statement    of    in    re    infanti- 
cide         243 

Treatment  of  captives  by.  .  .  .    121 

Regent    of    Islands 29 

Kalaipahoa,    Poison    God    68,    69 

Kalakua.    Kamehameha's   Queen.  . 

56,    336 

Kalama,   Village   of    103 

Kalapana,    Village    of    204 

Kalehu,    Village    of 144 

Kamahoe.    a    chief    157 

Kamaili,    Experiences    at    213 

Kamakau,    Ability    to    write 328 

Character  of,  References  to.  . 

12,    49-52,    97,    104 

Rani   of    313 

Kamapiikai,    Tradition    of    Vo 

of    296,   297 

Kamapuaa;    See    "Pele". 

A    god,    Tradition    of,    Combat 

with    Pele    186,    196 

Kamehamaru,    Queen    of    Kan 

mehs    II.    Biography   of,  ,  ,      B  10  8  12 
BTamehameha    I  ;   Bee   ' '  Keoua1 '. 

Bathing    pool   of 89 

British  Government  prest  ati  d 

a  schooner  to 38 

Cession    of    Islands    to    Great 

Bl   lain    by    :;  5 

Conquest   "f  <  'aim  by 27 

Death,    Hate   of 6 

(if.     I  ) i  s | p ■  i s  i  ( i . . ' i    Of  ■     270 

Engineering    work    by,    Tales 

,,f    289,    290,    806 

Eruption  >>f  Bualalai  .•■tupped 

47 

:is 

a  of,  a'  Kohala 

i    «,r    Wahaula    buill    ■ 
ii,,n.-     of;     Land     origii 
owned   by    388,   289 


360 


Page 

Judgment    on    infanticide....  243 

Lands  divided  by 31-1 

Message  from  after  death.  .  . 

275,  276 

Miomioi,    a   friend   and   favor- 
ite   of 286-288,    290,  295 

Present     at     murder     of     Ke- 
oua      157 

Present     at     death     of     Capt. 

Cook    35 

Prophecv    concerning     107 

I   and   II,    Sacrifices   by 273 

Spelling  of  name  explained.  .  41 
War  of  with  Kauikeouli    (Ki- 

wala-o)     105,    108,  109 

War   of   with   Keoua.  .  .  .  156,  157 

Wives   many,    children    few.  .  329 
Kamehameha  II;  See   "Rihoriho". 
Abolition      of      idolatry      and 

Tabu,    by;    Motives    for...  95 

Accesion  to  throne 6 

Biographv    and    signature    of 

336-340 

Death  of  on   trip   to   England  7 

Description  of    58 

First  King  of  all  Islands.  .  .  .  314 

Ilousewarming    by     317 

Letter    from,    to    Ellis 353 

Revolt      of      Kekuaokalani 

against    92 

Suite   of,   on   trip   to   England  343 

Kamehameha     III,      successor     of 

Kamehameha  II    340 

Kana.    Tradition   of  adventures   of  296 

Kanenuiakea,   a   god    296 

Kaoreioku,   brother  of  Keoua....  157 

Kapaau,    Village    of 295 

Kapapahanaumoku,  Kingdom  after 

death    275 

Kapapala,    Description    of,     Expe- 
riences  at    154,  161 

Kaparaoa,   Village  of,   Idols   at...  306 

Kapauku,    Experiences   at 150 

Kapihe,  Accompanied  King  to  Eng- 
land     314,  343 

Kapiolani,   Mission   station   located 
through   influence   of,    Character 

of    103 

Statement  in  re  infanticide..  243 
Visit  of  to   Kilauea,   Defiance 

of   Pele   by    199,  200 

Kapoho,   Description   of 218 

Kapua,    Experiences    at,    Descrip- 
tion of   138,  139 

Kapuahi,     a     cave     dwelling,     de- 
scribed;   Experiences    at 167 

Kapulena,   Village   of,    visited....  265 

Kapuokaahi    village.    Visit    to....  226 
Karaimoku;    See   "Kalaimoku". 

Ksrepa,   Heiau  of 213 

Kau,   General   description  of 

139,    140,    143,  144 

Kauaea,  Village  of,  Experiences  at  214 
Kauai;    See    '  'Kaumualii' '. 
Kauai,     Cession     of     to     Kameha- 
meha      29 

Description   of    28 

Population    of     29 

Fort  at    29 

Language  of,   Difference   in..  29 

Rebellion   on    29 


Page 
Kauikeouli;      See      "Kamehameha 

III". 
Kauikeouli,   alias  for  Kiwala-o...    108 
Scene    of    battle    with    Kame- 
hameha         105 

Kaukau.   a  Chinese  word 291 

Kaula,  Description  of  Island  of .  .      30 

Kaulanamauna,  boundary  of  Kau 

Kaulu,     Description,     Experiences 

at     145 

Kaumualii;    See    "Kauai". 
Kaumualii,     a     chief;     Pronuncia- 
tion  of    44 

Champion    surfer    of    the    Is- 
lands        280 

Missionaries  favored  by   ...  .        6 
Submission     of     to     Kameha- 
meha,   Death    of    29 

Kaura,   Valley,   Experiences   at...    262 
Kauruheimarama,   accompanied 

King    to    England 343 

Kawaihae,     Description     of 12 

Heiau   at,    described 71 

Jno.   Young  visited  at 266 

Keoua  murdered  at 157 

Salt   ponds   at 299 

Size  of    300 

Warm    springs    at 299 

Kawelohea,   Legend  of 150 

Kea,   name  of  whites  who  lived  in 

mountains     331 

Keaau,    village,    described    224 

Keahialaka,     Village     of,     Experi- 
ences at    214 

Kealakekua,    Foreigners   at   before 

Cook     331 

Geology   and   burial   caves   of  106 
Kealaala,   Volcanic  Activity  at...    200 
Kealakomo,    Experiences   and   con- 
ditions at 196,  201,   202,   264 

Travelers  from  act  as  guides   167 
Keanakakoi    crater,    Activity    of.  .    195 
Keapuana,    a    cave    dwelling,    de- 
scribed;   Experiences    at 168 

Kearakaha,    Village   of    264 

Keauhou  described,   Population  of     91 
Keawaiti,    a    port    of    refuge,    Ex- 
periences   at     141 

Keawe,    House   of;    See    "Hale    o 
Keawe' '. 

Keaveaheuru,    a   chief    157,    158 

Keeaumoku,    Mourning    for    135 

Murder  of  Keoua  by.  .  .  .157,   158 
Warrior  of  Kamehameha;   fa- 
ther  of   Kaahumanu    108 

Keei,  Battle  of   105,   156 

Experiences    at    105 

Kehena,   Village   of  described.  .  .  .    21Js 
Kekauluohi,     Kamehameha' s 

daughter    56,'  57 

Keakealani,   Queen   of  Hawaii....      89 
Kekuanaoa,    accompanied    King   to 

England    314,   343 

Kekuaokalani,     Battle    of,     to    re- 
store   idolatry    92 

Monument  to    94 

Keokea,    Experiences    at     129 


561 


Page 
Keopuolani,     Illness     of,     Pravers 

for    336 

Mother    of    Kamehameha    II, 
Attitude   toward   mission.. 

38,   58,   59,   60,   62,    329 

Mourning   for    135,    136 

Mourning     customs     changed 

from  death  of    137 

Keoua,     Army     of     destroyed     by 

volcano    156,   186,   187 

Son   of   Kalaiopu,    brother   of 

Kauikeouli    156 

"War  and  surrender  by,   Mur- 
der  of    156-158 

Governor    of    Maui 58 

Kuakini's    wife,     Tapa    mak- 
ing by    82,    83 

Keouohana,    Village    of 211 

Kiholo,    Kamehameha's    fish    pond 

at     300 

Kilauea,   Approach  to   described.  . 

169,    173 

Described     173-194 

Ellis    party    first    whites     to 

visit     4,    193 

Eruption    of,    destrovs    army 

156,    186,   187 

Pictures  of    174,   175 

Traditions   and  mythologv   of 

183-186,     207 

Kilauea-iki   described    192 

Kinao,     Governor    of    Puna,    Dis- 
cussions   with    214 

King,   Capt.,   Account  of  death   of 

Capt.    Cook    by 99 

Description   of   Loa    and   Kea 

by     194 

Status   of   women   in   Hawaii, 

by    2S4 

King;    See    "Law",      "Kings     of 
Hawaii",    "Kaumualii". 

Chief  magistrate    320 

Chiefs    consulted    by    on    im- 
portant   matters     321 

Etiquette    toward    313,    314 

Land  reverts  to,   on  death  of 

holder .    318 

Perquisites     and     monopolies 

of    316,   317 

Supreme    authority    of 

312,     314,     319 

flings   of   Hawaii;    See    "Kameha- 
meha   I",     "Kamehameha    II", 
"Kamehameha  III". 
Kings  of  Hawaii  at  time  of  Capt. 

Cook    named     313 

Kings    of   Hawaii   named    and   de- 
scribed: 

Akea      274 

Hoakau,    a   Hawaiian    Nero..    274 

Kahekii    818 

Kumaraua,    of    Molokai 68 

Miru     274 

Riroa     27 

Rono    1"".    L01.    217 

Taraiopu,     King    at    time    of 

Cook     98,    313 

Taeo    

Umi    272-274 

Kiwala-o;    See    "Kauikeouli". 

Kohala,    Description  of 28 

Kamehameha's      home      and 

surrounding    Bt     288-290 


Page 
Koloaha,    Tillage    of,    visited.  .  .  .    263 

Kona,    Cultivation    in 48 

Description  of.  .  .  .87,  91,  92,  139 

Population   of    139 

Konane,    Game   of   described 158 

Koreamoku,    originator    of    art    of 

medicine     250 

Kou    trees,    Numerous 

..47,   58,   60.   63,   89,   203.   209,   213 

Kuahiro,    a   god 204,    272 

Kuakini,    alias    Jno.    Adams,    Gov- 
ernor   of    Hawaii,    Appreciation 

of   by   missionaries    9,    45 

Church  built  by,   at  Kailua..    305 
Description   of   domestic    cus- 
toms   of 45,    78-80 

Discussions  with..  79,  81,   85,   323 

Housewarming    by     317 

Infanticide   discussed  by....    243 

Prohibited   by    247 

Portrait    of     79 

Rank  of    313 

Kuamoo,    scene    of   battle    in    sup- 
port   of    idolatry     92 

Kukailimoku,    Kamehameha's    war 

god     72 

Kukui  tree,  Uses  made  of... 281,  282 
Kumaraua,  King  of  Molokai....  68 
Kumuokapiki,  Chief  of  "Waimea..  301 
Kupahua,    Village    of    described..   "204 

Labor,  required  of  common  people  315 
Laborers,    Custom   regulating   hire 

of     319 

Lae-Mano,   a  point  formed  by  last 

Hualalai    flow    308 

Lahaina,    Description   of 57,    63 

Lahaina,   Mission  established  at..      21 
Lanai;    See    "Ranai". 
Land  boundaries,   how  marked.  .  .    262 
Land,    Common   people    pass    with  316 
Disposition    of    on    death    of 

holder      318 

Divided    among    followers    of 

Kamehameha    314 

Rent   and   taxes  paid  on....    315 
System   described    ..313,   314-319 
Tax  free  in  certain   cases...    316 
Tenure,    Description    and    ef- 
fect   of 314,    316,    318.    322 

Titles,    Status   of,    in   case   of 

war    120 

Landslide,     Great,     at     Laupahoe- 

hoe    284 

At   Pololu    285 

Language;     See     "Hawaiian    lan- 
guage",     "Malay      language"] 
'  •  M  :i  (1  a  g  a  s  c  a  r      langUS 
"South     American     langua 
"Hebrew  language",   "Tahiti an 
language",   "Written  langu 
Different  i  Imilarltles 

in    groups   ot    Pacific 326 

Hawaiian,    Remarks  on    .  .  ■  • 

6,  88,    i"  18,  B  LI 

Eawaii,   Same   as  Tahltian .  .     B9 
■  i,     com- 
pared  with   otl 
Lanial  ea     I  a  ■■  a     at     Kailua,     da 

Ibed,    i'"i  t    at    i 

La    Pi  ron  e,    Will    to    Hawaii    b 
,   1 1 i I.,,   Oanoe  trip  to 
-j  i  i  , 


302 


Page 
Laupahoehoe,    Hamakua,    Descrip- 
tion   of    formation    of    by    land- 
slide         284 

Lava    at    Kilauea,    described 191 

Lava  flow:  See  "Honaunau", 
"Hualalai",    '  'Volcano' '. 

Flow  near  Malama 218 

Law;  See  "Courts",  "Inheri- 
tance", "Divorce",  "Mar- 
riage".   "Penalties' ',    "Tabu". 

Traditional    code    of     317 

Lawyers,    none   allowed    321 

Laziness,  principal  cause  of  infan- 
ticide         245 

Legends;    See    "Traditions". 
Life     after     death;     See     "Death, 
Life   after' '. 

Belief  of  natives  in 211 

Liholiho;    See    "Rihoriho". 
Liliha,    accompanied   King  to  Eng- 
land         343 

Liholiho;    See    "Kamehameha   II". 
Liquor,    Distilled,    Introduced    by 

foreigners      287 

Made     from     cane,     potatoes 

and    ti     129,     196 

Lono;    See    "Rono". 

Maaro,    Chief   of   Waiakea 

63,   224,   225,  227,   228, 

233,    234,    241,    248,    249,    254,    313 
Madagascar     language,     compared 

with    Hawaiian     347 

Mahuka,    Volcanic    activity    at...    200 

Maika,    Game    of   described 148 

Makaaka,    described,    Experiences 

at    159,   161 

Makanau,  scene  of  final  surrender 

of   Keoua    156 

Makaena,     village,    Description    of   209 
Makoa,   guide   around   Hawaii,    de- 
scribed;  Picture  of 86,   87,   154 

Gets    drunk     129 

Address   of  to   natives.  .  .211,    264 

Malama,   Lava   Flow   at 214,    218 

Malanahae,    Village   of,   visited...    265 
Malav     language,     compared     with 

Hawaiian    347,   353 

Manahini,  White  visitor  to  Ha- 
waii  before   Cook    331 

Manienie,    Village    of    264 

Manona,     wife  _  of     Kekuaokalani, 

dies    with    him     93 

Monument   to    94 

Marin,    Lava   flow   at 218 

Market    fairs   held   at   Hilo 242 

Maro,    worn    in    battle 116 

Marquesas,    Customs    of    compared 

with    Hawaiian 253,    258-260 

English   mission   at    36 

Voyages    to    296,    297 

Marriage;    See    "Polygamy". 
Marriage  and  divorce,  Customs  in 

re    328.   329 

Between  royal  families  of 
Hawaii  and  Tahiti,  pro- 
posed           70 

Of   relatives   prevalent    329 

Mauae,  guide,  Reception  to.  Chant 

to 141,    143.    204-206.    211 

Maui,  Description  of,  Population 
of    21 


Page 

Maukareoreo,  a  giant    89 

Maunakea   described    19 

Legends  of   white   men   on  .  .  .    304 
Trip    of    Blatchley    and    Rug- 

gles   to    303 

Trip    of    Goodrich    to    top    of, 

^Description    of    301-304 

Wild   animals   on    303,    304 

Maunaloa    described.  ...  19,     193,     194 

Mechanics,    Rank   of    313 

Medicine,    Foreign,    Native    dispo- 
sition   towards    249,    250 

Tradition  of  origin  of  art...    250 
Meles;    See    "Songs". 
Mercy,   to  vanquished.  ...  11,   119,    120 

Metcalf,  Visit  to  Hawaii  by 34 

Miomioi,   a  friend  and  favorite  of 
Kamehameha,   Reminiscences   by 

286,    288-290",    295 

Mission    station    on    Kauai 29 

Established   at   Lahaina    ....      21 
Mission     stations,     Locations    rec- 
ommended     11,   12 

Missionary,    preaching   to    natives, 

Picture  of,  Description  of.  .153,  307 
Missionaries,  American,  Arrival  of 
and  location  of'in  Hawaii.. 4,   6,   11 
Chiefs  friendly  to;   See  Boki, 
Kaahumanu.   Kamakau.   Ka- 
mehamaru.   Kapiolani,   Kau- 
mualii,      Keopuolani,      Kua- 
kini,    Maaro. 

English  to   South  Pacific 3,   4 

First  whites   to  visit   Kilauea        4 

Opposition    to     38 

Report  of  on  trip  around  Ha- 
waii            9 

Sentiments  of  natives   toward   235 
Written    language    formulated 

by    351 

Moanalua,   Salt  Lake  at,  described     28 
Mokini,     temple     built     by     Paao, 

white  priest   295 

Mokuohai,     scene     of    Kamehame- 

ha's   crucial   battle    108 

Money,    Use   of    315 

Morokai    described,    Population    of      23 

Morokini,    Description  of 22 

Mourning,    Burning    a    badge    of..    137 
Changes    in    custom    effected 

by   Christianity    137 

Customs    132-137 

Customs    of    S.    Pacific 134 

For  Keopuolani 135,  136 

Song,  Fine  example  of 135 

Tattooing  tongue   badge   of.  .    136 

Murder,  Penalty  for 318 

Muscovy    ducks   in   Kau 160 

Musicians    and    dancers    at    Kailua 

74,    78-80 

Rank   of    313 

Mythology;     See     "Kilauea",    t 
"Pele",     "Kamapuaa",     "Tra- 
ditions",   "Religion". 

Nahienaena,      sister     of     Kameha- 
meha          328 

Nahoaarii,   Hawaiian   god    154 

Kaihe,  Character  of,  References  to 
12,    103,    157 


36  3 


Page 
Native  tools:    See    "Tools". 

Traditions:   See   "Traditions". 
Houses;    See    "Houses". 
Houses,    compared   with   those 

of    Society    Islands    236 

Opinion    of    idolatry,    Christi- 
anity, tabu.  .150,  152,  210,   211 
Natives;     See     "Chiefs",     "Com- 
mon  people",    "Hawaiian". 

Causes   of   decrease.  .10,    235,    236 

Ornaments    of     146 

Physical    description    of 32 

Status  of  at   Kau 145,   146 

Status   of  at   Honuapo 151 

Naval    battles    described 115 

Necklaces    of   bone    and    hair....    117 
New     Hebrides,     Superstitions     of 

similar   to   those   of  Hawaii....    178 
New    Zealanders,    Hawaiians    iden- 
tical   with     326 

Niihau,    Cession    of     to     Kameha- 

meha,   Description   of    29 

Mats,    Description    of 30 

Kinole,     described :     source    of    re- 
productive   pebbles,     source    of 

sling   stones    158 

Numerals,    Hawaiian    named 353 

Xuuanu,    Battle   of   described.  ...  25-27 

Valley  described    24 

Nuuhiwa;   See   "Marquesas". 

Oahu.     Conquest    of    by     Kameha- 

meha    27 

Described,    Population    of.  .23,    28 

Oculists    and   surgery    250 

Ohelos;    See    "Berries". 

Ohelo    berries,    sacred    to    Pele .  .  .  173 

Ohiokalani,    name    of    N.    peak    of 

Kilauea    205,  228 

Oil;    See    "Kukui". 

Olaa,    Sandalwood  collecting  in...  227 

Tapa   produced   at    203 

Village  and  district  described  226 

O-o,   agricultural  tool,  described.  .  146 
Opihikao,    Village   of,   Experiences 

at     213 

Opiri.    son    of     Paao,      the     white 

priest     330 

Oracles,    Practise    of    in    Hawaii..  72 

Orator,   National,   Office  hereditary  321 

Ordeals    for   trying   accused 320 

Origin     of     Hawaiians,      Tradition 

and    probabilities   of    

323,   324,   326,  327 

Orthographv,    Hawaiian    explained 

40,    41,    42,    43 

Ouli,   Village  of 301 

Owawarua,    Village    of    291 

Paao,    a    white    priest;    Traditions 

of    295,    330 

Pacific;    See    "Polynesian". 
Pacific   Islanders,    Differences....    826 
Resemblance    of    to    American 

Indians      327 

Traditions    and    probabilities 

of  origin   of    

::•_';'.,    82  1.    B26,    327 

Tabu    peculiar    to 291 

Pahe,    l  lame   of   described 147 

Pakarana,   City   of   Refuge  of.    .  .    27:', 
ohaku,    Kau,    People   of   de- 
scribed      1  45,    1  16 


Page 
Parker.    American   resident   at   Po- 

lolu,    Waimea    286,  301 

Patani,    Preaching   at    142 

Pauahi,  wife  of  Kamehameha  II.  .  157 
Pauepu,  District  of:   White  priest, 

Paao,   located   at    295 

Peace,    Method   of  concluding.  .  .  .  121 

Ti   an   emblem   of 197 

Pearl  Harbor,  References  to 23 

Pebbles,    Reproductive,    of    Ninole  158 
Pele,   Controversy   with   a  priestess 

of,    at   Hilo    228-230 

Combat  of   with    Kamapuaa.  . 

186.    196,  207 

Defiance     of     by     Kaahumanu 

and   Kapiolani    199 

Game    of    Holua    with    Kaha- 

vari     220-223 

Priestess    of.    Vengeance 

threatened    by 198,  230 

Traditions,  Native  fear  of.. 

11,    154,    164,    173, 

178,    181,    183,    187,    198,  231 
Worship      of      in      Hamakua, 

Heiau    to     262 

Pele's    hair    described 190 

Penalty;     See      "Tabu,     Violation 
of". 

Penalty   for   crime 318,  319 

People:    See    "Common    People", 

"Chiefs". 

Personal    property,     Insecurity    of  322 

Pestilence    at    the   Islands 32 

Petroglyphs    described     346 

Pets,    dogs   and  pigs 162 

Pickering,     John,    Hawaiian     writ- 
ten  language   based   on   plan  by  6 

Picture-writing    described     346 

Pigs  as  offerings 73,   185,  192 

Tabu   of    66 

Pigs    as    pets 162 

Piia,  :i  chief,  Bank  of 313 

Po,   Souls  of  dead   went   to 275 

Polygamy,   prevalent   among  chiefs  329 

Poem,    Specimen    of   chant 205 

Poison    god    Kalaipahoa    described 

68-69 

Pololu,    Land    slide    at 285 

Valley,    described     285,  286 

Ponahawai,   village,   visited 232 

Ponahoahoa,    Volcanic    activity    at, 

Picture    of    162-166 

Population     of     Islands,     Number 

and    cause:,   of   decrease 10,    ^2 

Central    Kona    12,   91 

Bfonaunau    180 

Honokane     285 

Honolulu     27 

Kaalaala  and  Kapapala,  thick- 
ly    set  tie. 1      161 

Kahoolawe     22 

Kailna    12, 

Kauai    29 

noil  !>  I 

Lanai    28 

21 

Niihau    29 

Oahu    28 

Waipio      274 

Molokal     

ui,    King  of  ( liihu   at    time  of 

I    ioV    


3G4 


Page 
Prayers;    See    "Sorcery",    "Sor- 
cerers' '. 
Precipice     trails     along    Hamakua 

bluffs     285 

Prickly  pear  in  Kona 123 

Priest,    High,    Hewahewa    advised 

ilition   idolatry   and  tabu.  .95,  96 

Priests,  abolished  as  a  class 37 

Printing,   First  in   Hawaii 6,   38 

Prisoners;       See       "Sacrifices", 

"Slaves' '. 
Pronunciation;  See  "Hawaiian 
language,  Pronunciation  of".. 
Property;  See  "Personal  prop- 
erty", "Land",  "Common  peo- 
ple". 

Puako.     Village    of 301 

Puakokoki,   Battle  of,  final  defeat 

of   Keoua    156 

Pualaa,  Village  of,  Experiences  at  217 
Public  assemblies,  When  held....  321 
Puhenehene,  Game  of,  described..  61 
Pukalani,  Village  of,  in  Waimea .  .  301 
Pukohola,  Heiau  of  described.  ...      71 

Puna,   described 194,   195,   203 

Punahele,    Definition    of    term....    313 

Punaluu,    visited    159 

Punchbowl,   Reference  to 24 

Pun  o  Kahavari  hill  described...  223 
Puukapu,  Village  of,  in  Waimea.  .    301 

Rainfall   of   Islands 30-32 

Ranai  described,  Population  of... 

22,    23,     57 

Raspberries;    See    "Berries". 
Real  Estate;  See  "Land",  "Land 
tenure' '. 

Rebellion    on    Kauai 29 

To  restore  idolatry 92 

Refuge;   See   "City  of  Refuge". 
Religious    beliefs;     See     "Gods", 
'  'Sacrifices' '. 

Discussions  and  services,  Ha- 

waian 66,    69,    71-73, 

90,    91,    97,    107,   210,   211, 
226,     263,     274-276,     282,     283 
Religious      controversy      with      a 

priestess    of    Pele 228 

Discussion  with  three  priests 

217 

Services   at   Heiau  of   Kawai- 

hae    described    71 

Worship    of    Pele 262 

Rent,   Land.   How  payable 315 

Reptiles,    Absence   of    33 

Residence;  See  "Houses". 
Resurrection,    after    death,    Belief 

in     274 

Richards,  Rev.,  References  to.. 22,  63 
Rihoriho;   See   "Kamehameha  II". 

Meaning    of    word     336 

Robbery,    Penalty    for 319 

Riroa,    King   of   Hawaii 195,   273 

Roads,    Character    of    266 

Rono,  a  god,  Cook  thought  to  be, 

Traditions   of    100,   101,   217 

Ruggles,    Mr.,    Trip   of   to   Mauna- 

kea    303 

Rum    and    diseases    of    foreigners 
worse    than    Pele 230,    231 


Page 
Russian    Fort   built   at   Honolulu..      28 

Russian  vessels  at  Honolulu 28 

Russians,    Trading   salt   with 299 

Sabbath.   Observance  of  by  natives 

62,    305-309,    323 

Services,   Picture   of 307 

Sacrifices;     See      "Human     sacri- 
fices' '. 

By  diviners  prior  to  war.  .111,  112 
By    Kamehameha    I   and   II..    273 

In    battle    119 

Of    animals    Ill,    112 

To   volcano   gods 185 

Sale,   Law  of 319 

Salt  Lake   at   Moanalua   described     28 
Salt.    Manufacture    and    use    of    in 
Hawaii    and    Society   Islands...    299 

Ponds    at    Kawaihae 299 

Trade    in     28 

Sandalwood   collecting,    in    Kohala 

295,    298 

in    Waiakea    227 

In    Waimanu    277 

In   Waipio    273 

Sandalwood,    tree,    Preparation    of 
and   trade   in,    described.  ...  35,    227 

Schools  established 38,  305 

Sea;   See  "Naval  Battles". 

Seashore,   Why  natives  live  at...    203 

Sham    fights    as    preparation    for 

war    Ill 

Shark  god,  Heiau  to 67,   97 

Sharks,    Natives    afraid    of 280 

Sheep  in  Hawaii   33,  304 

Shipping  at  Honolulu  in  1823...  27 
Inter-island,  Number  and  size  301 
Supplies   furnished   to... 310,   311 

Shoes,    Substitute   for 81 

Sick,     Indifference     toward 233 

Sickness,  Incantations  to  cure...  248 
Superstitions  of  natives  in  re 

215,    249 

Single  combat,   described 118 

Singing    at    night,    Custom    of....    258 
Slaves,  Defeated  in  battle  became 

120,    316 

Slings    described     110,    116 

Stones    obtained   at    Ninole..    158 
Social  Customs;   See   "Customs". 

"Chiefs". 
Social    Customs,    Rank    of    Chiefs, 

How  decided 312,   313 

Society,    Rank   in,    Division   of... 

312,   313 

Society    Islands,    Canoes   made    of 

kukui  in    282 

English   mission   at    36 

Hospitality    at     286 

Invasion   of  not   contemplated   290 

Surgery   in    250 

Traditions    of    Hades    at....    276 

Use    of    salt    in    .'  299 

Songs,    History    presented    in....    349 

How    formulated    349 

Sorcerers,  Status  and  powers  of.  . 

215,    217 

Sorcery    to    cure   sickness ...  .248,    249 
Soul,      Discussions     with     natives 
concerning     274 


365 


rage 

South  Pacific;  See  "Pacific", 
"Tahiti',  "Marquesas",  "So- 
ciety  Islands". 

Customs     of     compared     with 

Hawaiian     258-260 

English   mission   in    36 

Fisheries    of    compared    with 

Hawaiian     297,    298 

South  American  languages  com- 
pared   with   Hawaiian- 347,    348 

Spanish      discovery      of      Hawaii, 

Possible    330-333 

Spelling,  Hawaiian,  explained.  .  .  . 

40,    41,    42 

Spears  described   116 

Sports;    See    "Games". 

Spouting    Horn    at    Tairitii 142 

Stewart,  Rev.,  References  to 

22,    58,    59,    62 

Strawberries;    See    "Berries". 

Sugar    Cane    at    the    Islands 

34,   48,   147,   150,  195,    218 

Used    as    a    food 170 

Used     for     intoxicants 105 

Sulphur  beds   at   Kilauea.  .  .  .  179,    180 
Sunday;    See    "Sabbath". 
Superstitions;    See    "Pele",    "Ki- 
lauea' '. 

Superstitions,    Re   building   houses    240 
Re   curing  sickness .  .215-217,   248 

Re   volcano   gods 187 

Prevalence    of    11,    26 

Similar     to     those     of     New 

Hebrides    178 

Supplies    furnished   to    shipping.  . 

310,    311 

Surf  riding:,  described 277-280 

Surf  canoeing,   described    279 

Surf,    Missionaries    canoeing    thru 

138,     140,     141 

Surgery;    See    "Medicine". 

Surgery,    Practice    of    250 

Sweet   potato    liquor 129 

Swimming,  Adeptness  of  natives 
at     278,    335 

(If  a  word  is  not  found  under 
"T",   look  under   "K".) 
"T"    and    "K",    Alternative    use 

of     349 

Tabu,   Abolition   of,    Motives   of.  . 

37,     94,     95 

Easv  for  chiefs  and  priests.  .    293 

Effect    of    abolition    of 96 

Effect    of    on    women 95,    294 

Instances    of    application....      66 

Length   of   term   of 292 

Meaning    of,    Practice    of    in 
'■sia,      Penalities      for 

breaking;     290-293 

Opinion    of    natives   re    aboli- 
tion   of    150 

Violation       of      punished      by 

burning    290,  293 

Taeo     (Kaeo),     King     <>f     Kauai, 

.slain   in   be t tie  on   ( (ahu 27 

King    of    'J'.-i M :i i    ,-tt    time    of 
Cook     313 


Pa  ge 

Tahiti  compared  with  Hawaii....      19 

Conditions   in    253-255 

Hawaiians    came    from 324 

Intermarriage    proposed    with 

royal    family    of 70 

Origin   and   meaning   of   word 

324,    326 

Treatment   of   sick   in 234 

Traditions   same   as  Hawaiian      69 

Voyages  to  and  from 

296,    297,    327 

Tahitian     language,      Peculiarities 

of     351 

Tahaurawe;  See  "Kahoolawe". 

rahuata;  See  "Marquesas". 

Taiana,  Slain  in  battle  of  Nuuanu     27 

Surrender  of   Keoua   to 156 

Tairi.   a  flying  god 72.   90 

Tairitii,  Description  of,  Experi- 
ences  at    141 

Talking   at   night,    Custom   of....    258 

Tapa.  Coloring,  Methods  of 84 

Cultivation,   manufacture   and 
varieties  of  described.  .  82, 
84,     159,     162,     168,     203,     269 
Taraiopu,  King  at  time  of  Cook.  . 

18,    98,    213,    313 

Taro  described,  Methods  of  cook- 
ing     144,   160 

Tattooing  compared  to  that  of 
New  Zealand,  Tahiti  and  Mar- 
quesas      151,     152 

The   tongue  badge   of  mourn- 
ing,  Method  of    134,    136 

Tauai;    See    "Kauai". 
Taumuarii ;    See   "Kaumualii". 
Taureonanahoa,     rock    pillars    off 

Kona     138 

Tax  free,  Certain  lands  are.  .  .  .  316 
Taxes  paid  on  land,  No  fixed...  315 
Taxation,    Different    forms   of .  .  .  .    317 

Oppressive    311 

Teavemauhiri,   King  of  Hawaii...    213 
Tenure;  See  "Land". 
Teporiorani,      King     of     Oahu     at 

time    of    Cook     313 

Teeth,    Knocked   out    on    death   of 

chief     133 

Temple;  See  "Heiau",  "City  of 
Refuge' '. 

Theft,    Penalty   for    318 

Thurston,   Rev.  Asa,   Adventure  of 

at    Kilauea     182 

Canoeing  through   the   surf.. 

138,    141 

References  to    It. 

47,    48,    49,    51,    123,    300,    301 

Return    of    to    Honolulu 322 

Trip    of    around    Hawaii 4,    7 

Tiha,    King   of    Kauai    at    time    of 

Cook     332 

J'i  plant,  described;  Uses  of  for 
liquor,    food,   building,    clothing 

105,    li>()-198 

robacco  pipe  used  as  an  orna- 
ment        146 

Produced   in   Hawaii 47 

Smoking,    Emblem    of    hospi- 
tality         266 

Toll    for    crossing    Wailuku    Ki\.r    J  1 1 


366 


rage 
Tools;  See  "Adze",   "Oo". 

Bamboo   knives    260 

Used  by   natives 239 

Tongue,       Tattooing,       badge       of 

mourning    136 

Tournaments    of   sports    are    popu- 
lar          148 

Toumoarii,    Village    of    264 

Tour    around    Hawaii,    The    start 

from    Kailua     86 

Towaihae;    See    "Kawaihae". 
Trade      winds,      Influence      of     on 

emigration     327 

Trading,    Customs    of    319 

I n tcr  (list rict    at   Hilo    242 

With    shipping    311 

Tradition,    Hawaiian,    a    specimen 

of     222 

Medicine,    Origin   of   art   of.  .    250 

Paao,    a    white    priest 295 

Voyage    of    Kamapiikai .  .296,    297 
Traditions,  Adventures  of  Kaua..    296 

Of   the   Flood    333 

Of  foreigners  in  Hawaii  prior 

to    Cook    295,    330-333 

Of    game    of    Holua    between 
Pele   and    Kahavari ....  220-223 

Of  Mauna  Kea 304 

Of    Kawelohea    150 

Of   a   giant    89 

Of  Hades    101,   275,   276 

Of    Kilauea    184-186 

Of  origin   of  Hawaiians 

323,    324,    326,    327 

Of  voyages  to  Marquesas  and 

Tahiti 296,  297 

Traditional   code  of  law 317 

Trans-Pacific  Voyages;  See  "Voy- 
ages' '. 
Travel;  See  "Inter-island  travel' ', 
"Tahiti,  Voyages  to  and  from". 

Trial   by   ordeal 320 

Of   causes,    Methods    of.. 320,    '321 

Truce,,  Ti  used  as  a  flag  of 197 

Tyerman,   Rev.   Danl.,   Visit   of   to 
Hawaii,    1822     7 

Dlumaikia.  Game  of;  See  "Maika". 
Umi,  King,  Human  sacrifices  by.  . 

272-274 

Uri,    god    of    the    sorcerers 217 

Vancouver,   Visits  of   to   Hawaii.. 

14,    35,    41,    42 

Vegetables    of    the    Islands 

33,    34,    48,    195,    198 

Volcano;    See    "Kilauea",    "Hua- 
lalai",    "Ponahoahoa". 

Activity  at  Kealaala  and  Ma- 

huka     200 

Conditions   in   Kau    140 

Eruption    at    Malama 214 

Formations   near  Kilauea,   de- 
scribed     170,    171,    172 

Formations  at  Honaunau  .  .130-132 

Native   fears  of 154 

Yroyages;    See    "Inter-island 
travel' '. 

Long,    in    canoes    327 

To  Marquesas  and  Tahiti.  .  .  . 

296,    297 


Page 
Waiakea,   Village  and  district  de- 
scribed         225 

Waimanu,    Description    of     12 

Wahnea,    District    of,    visited....    265 

Waipio,    Description    of 12 

Whaling     industry,     Beginning     of      35 
Wahaula,   Heiau   of  described.  .  .  .    203 

Wahinepio,    Rank    of    313 

Waiakahiula,     Village,    Visit    to..    224 

Waiakea,    Description    of 12,    225 

Bay,    Description    of     251 

Population    of     253 

Products    of     252 

Village   of    in    Waimea 301 

Waikaloa,    Village    visited 301 

vVailau,    visited    159 

vVailuku    River,    Hilo,    described; 

Toll    for    crossing    241 

vVaimanu,  Description  of 

12,    277,    280,    282 

Waimea,  District,  Population,  De- 
scription   of    265,    301 

Waiohinu,    described,    Experiences 

at     146,     147 

Waipio  Valley,  described    

12,    266,    273,    274 

Celebrated  in  song  and  tradi- 
tion         274 

Picture    of    267 

Population    of    274 

War;  See  "Battle",  "City  of 
Refuge",  "Cloaks",  "Dress", 
"Fofts",  "Helmets",  "Land 
titles",  "Naval  battles", 
"Peace",  "Prisoners", 
"Single  combat",  "Weapons", 
'  'Women' '. 

Addresses    prior    to 112,    113 

Camps   in   preparation    for...    114 
Cities  of  refuge  used  in  time 

of     t»li 

Diviners  consulted  before  en- 
gaging  in    Ill,    112 

Fought    in    daytime     115 

God;   See  "Idols". 

Messengers     114 

Method  of  preparation  for.  .  . 

113,     114 

Shirkers,   Punishment   of .  .  .  . 

113,    114 

Prevalence    of    32 

Status   of,    Defeated   in..  119,    120 

Ti  leaf  a  flag  of  truce 197 

Warfare,  Hawaii  a  scene  of  con- 
stant          109 

Hawaiian    method    of 110 

Warm    Springs   at    Kawaihae 299 

Water    pools    at    the    volcano....    179 

Scarcity    of    

.  .  .  .45,   50,   130,   138,   139,    141 

Stream    of    at    Keaau 

Stream    of    at    Waiohinu....    146 

Waterfalls  on   Waipio   bluffs 

277,    285 

Water  Games;  See  "Games, 
Water",  "Surf  riding",  "Canoe 

surfing",    described     278 

Water    melons    at    Kalehu,    Kau..    144 
Weapons;    See    "Slings", 
'  'Spears' '. 


367 


Page 

Weapons,  Differences  in  groups  of 

Pacific     326 

Hawaiian,   described    

110,   116,   288 

Weather       record,      Honolulu,      in 

1821-22     30-32 

SVhaleships    at    Hawaii,     Numbers 

of,    Trading   by 35,    36,   311 

White   priest,    Tradition    of    a....    295 
Whites  in  Hawaii  prior  to  Cook.  . 

295,    304,    330-333 

In     Hawaii     in     1823;       See 
"Parker",       "  Young, 
John' '. 
Wiliwili      tree,      Description      and 

uses  of    166 

Windows,  none  in  houses 238 

Women,   Hawaiian,   participants   in 

battle    93,  109 

Status    of   in    Hawaii 222 

Status   of   under   tabu.... 95,    294 


Page 

Work;   See   "Labor". 

Worship;      See    "Pele",      "Relig- 
ious worship". 

Wrestling,     practiced    by    Hawai- 
ians     Ill 

Written        Language,         Hawaiian 

How  formulated 6,  38,  351 

Hieroglyphics   discussed    ....    346 

Writing,    Advance    of    among    Ha- 
waiians     328 

Yams,    raised   on    Kauai    and    Nii- 

hau     30 

Young,  John,  Capture  of 35 

Description   of    71 

Relations    with   mission 

266,     298,  322 

Traditions  stated  by 324 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

Return  this  material  to  the  library 

from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


%t£<>9 198? 

KKTO  CO  URI 

OL  OCT  07  W9t 

AUG    21991 

qlapr  is  ifc* 


urn  mm  mi  mi  n  mill  llll  IIH  111  III  III!  Hill  llll  Illl  III  >  II 

UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIB 


A     000  024  671     o 


